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Full text of "Northern France : from Belgium and the English Channel to the Loire, excluding Paris and its environs : handbook for travellers"

y BAEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. 

AuBtria-Hungary, including Dalmatia, Bosnia, Bucharest, Belcrrade 
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Published at net prices 



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Digitized by the Internet Archive 

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http://www.archive.org/details/northernfrancOOk^rl 



NORTHERN FRANCE 

FROM 

BELGIUM AND THE ENGLISH CHANNEL TO THE LOIRE 

EXCLUDING 

PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS 



HANDBOOK FO^ TRTrELLERS 

BY 

/ /;: KAI^L BAEDEKEK ■ 

/ 

/ 



WITH 16 MAPS AND 55 PLANS 






LEIPZIG: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER 

LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN, 1 ADELPHI TERRACE, W.C. 
NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 155 FIFTH AVE. 

1909 



All rights reserved 



'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, 
And specially let this be thy prayere : 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call^ 
Thee to correct in any part or all!' 



/ 



LIBRARY 

■ ' ^' Studies 



DEC 1 3 1590 



PEEFACE. 



The chief object of the Handbook for Northern France, 
which now appears for the fifth time and corresponds with 
the eighth French edition, is to render the traveller as nearly 
as possible independent of the services of guides, commission- 
naires, and innkeepers, and to enable him to employ his time 
and his money to the best advantage. 

Like the Editor's other Handbooks, it is based on personal 
acquaintance with the country described, a great part of 
which has been repeatedly explored with the view of assuring 
accuracy and freshness of information. The Editor begs to 
tender his grateful acknowledgments to travellers who have 
sent him information for the benefit of the Handbook, and 
hopes they will continue to favour him with such communi- 
cations, especially when the result of their own experience. 

On the Maps and Plans the utmost care has been bestow- 
ed, and it is hoped that they will often be of material service 
to the traveller, enabling him at a glance to ascertain his 
bearings and select the best routes. 

A short account of the ordinary approaches to Northern 
France for English and American travellers will be found in 
the Introduction. 

Heights are given in the text in English feet, on the maps 
in metres (1 Engl. ft. = 0.3048 m^tre; 1 metre = 3.281 Engl. ft. 
or about 3 ft. 3V3 in.). Distances are given in English miles, 
or, in the case of mountain-routes, are expressed by the time 
they usually require. See also p. xxiii. 

In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-class hotels 
and those of humbler pretensions. The latter may often be 
selected by the 'voyageur en gargon' with little sacrifice of 
real comfort and considerable saving of expenditure. The 
asterisks indicate those hotels which the Editor has reason 
to believe to be provided with the comforts and conveniences 
expected in up-to-date establishments, and also to be well- 
managed and reasonable in their scale of charges. Houses of 



VI 



PREFACE. 



a more modest character, when good of thoir class, are de- 
scribed as 'good' or 'very fair'. At the same time the Editor 
does not doubt tliat comfortable quarters may sometimes be 
found at hotels that are unstarrcd and even unmentioned. 
Althougli prices generally have an upward tendency, the 
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the tra- 
veller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure. 

To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- 
tesy towards travellers is the sole passport to his commen- 
dation, and that advertisements of every form are strictly 
excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel -keepers are also 
warned against persons representing themselves as agents 
for Baedeker's Handbooks. 



Abbreviations. 



R. = Room, Route. 

A. = Attendance. 
L. = Light. 

B. = Breakfast. 
S. = Supper. 

D^j. = Dejeuner, Luncheon. 

D. = Dinner. 

Pens. =Pension, i.e. board ararflodging. 

M. = EngL mile. 

ft. = EngL foot. 

hr. = hour. 

min. = minute. 

]Sf. = North, Northern, etc. 



S. = South, etc. 
E. = East, etc. 
W. = West, etc. 
fr. = franc, 
c. = centime. 
Ji - Mark, 
pf. = Pfennig, 
omn. = omnibus, 
carr. = carriage, 
comp. = compare, 
ca. = circa, about. 
P.L.M. = Paris - Lyon - Mediterranee 
(railway). 



The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year 
of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place .shows 
its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the 
principal places on railway-routes and highroads generally indicates their 
distance from the starting-point of the route. 



Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. 



CONTENTS. 



Introduction. 

Page 
I. Language. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom 

House. Octroi xi 

II. Routes to Northern France xii 

III. Period and Plan of Tour. Syndicats d'Initiative . . xiv 

IV. Railways. Public Conveyances xvi 

V. Cycling and Motoring xix 

VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Cafes xx 

VII. Public Buildings and Collections xxil 

VIII. Post and Telegraph Offices . xxii 

IX. Weights and Measures xxiii 

X. Historical Sketch . xxiv 

XI. Political Geography xxxii 

XII. Maps XXXV 

northern France. 

I. North-Eastern France. 
Route 

1, From Calais to Amiens and Paris 3 

I. From Calais to Amiena 5 

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville 5 

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras 15 

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Prevent, and DouUena .... 22 
II. From Amiena to Paris 23 

a. Via Creil 23 

b. Via Beauvaia 24 

2, Amiens 24 

3, From Paris to Beauvais and Le Tr^port (Mers) 31 

I. From Paris to Beauvaia 31 

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont 31 

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32 

II. From Beauvais to Le Tr^port 35 

4, From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris) 37 

5, From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes .... 41 
(3. From Douai and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtrai ... 50 

I. From Douai to Lille 50 

II. From Valenciennes to Lille 50 

III. From Lille to Courtrai 51 

7. Lille 52 

8. From Paris to Cambrai 61 

a. Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny 61 

b. Via Creil, St. Just, and Peronne 61 

9. From Amiens (Calais, Boulogne) to Chalons-sur-Marne 
(Bale) via Laon and Rheims 63 

10. From Calais to Nancy (Strassbnrg) via Lille, Valenciennes, 

Hirson, and Longuyon 65 



viii CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

11. From Paris to Namur (Brussels, Cologne) 67 

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeuge (Mons-Brussels) .... 67 

b. Via Soiesons, Laon, and Anor 75 

c. Via SoiSBons, Rheims, and M^ziferes 78 

12. From Paris to Rheims 81 

a. Via Meaux and La Fertd-Milon 81 

b. Via Soissons SI 

c. Via Meaux and Epernay 84 

13. Rheims 84 

14. From Paris to Metz 89 

a. Via Chalons and Frouard 89 

b. Via Chalons and Verdun 90 

c. Via Rheims and Verdun 93 

d. Via Rheims and Mdzieres-Charleville 93 

15. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) 99 

I. From Paris to Chalons-sur-Marne 100 

II. From Chalons-sur-Marne to Nancy 105 

IG. Nancy 110 

II. Normandy. 

17. From Dieppe to Paris 119 

a. Via Rouen 122 

b. Via Gisors and Pontoise 126 

18. Rouen 128 

19. From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen 140 

20. From Dieppe to Le Havre 147 

Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre 147 

a. From Dieppe to Le Havre 147 

b. From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux 149 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes 150 

d. From Dieppe to Etretat - . . . . 150 

21. Watering-Places in Calvados 152 

a. Trouville -Deauville, Villers- sur-Mer , Houlgate, and 

Cabourg 152 

b. Lion-sur-Mer, Luc-sur-Mer, Langrune, St. Aubin-8ur-Mer, 

and Courseullea 156 

22. From Cherbourg to Paris 158 

23. Caen 169 

24. From Cherbourg to Brest 176 

25. From Granville to Paris 178 

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alen^on. Falaise 185 

27. From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne .... 188 

III. Brittany and the Banks of the Loire. 

28. St. Malo, St. Servan, Dinard, and their Environs . . . 194 

I. St. Malo and Parame 194 

n. St. Servan 197 

III. Dinard 197 

IV. Excursions from St. Malo 198 

29. From St. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (Quimper) .... 204 

I. From St. Malo to Rennes 204 

II. From Rennes to Vannes (QuimperJ 208 

30. From Paris to Rennes .210 



CONTENTS. ix 

Route Page 

I. From Paris to Chartres 210 

II. From Chartres to Le Mans 214 

III. From Le Mans to Rennes 220 

31. From Rennes to Brest 223 

32. From St. Brieuc to Pontivy and Auray 233 

33. From St. Brieuc to Quimper 234 

a. Via Auray 234 

b. Via Loudeae and Chateaulin 235 

c. Via Guingamp and Rosporden 236 

34. Excursions from St. Brieuc and from Guingamp .... 237 

35. Excursions from Morlaix 242 

36. From Brest to Nantes 245 

I. From Brest to Quimper 245 

II. From Quimper to Auray 248 

III. From Auray to Vannes and Nantes 251 

37. From Auray to Quiberon. Plouharnel. Carnac. Locmariaquer 255 

38. Nantes 257 

39. From Paris to Nantes 266 

a. Via Le Mans, Sabld. and Angers 266 

b. Via Le Mans, Sable, and Segrg 268 

c. Via Orleans, Tours, and Angers 270 

40. Angers 272 

41. From Paris to Tours 279 

a. Via Orleans and Blois 279 

b. Via Vendome 283 

42. Orle'ans 287 

43. Blois 291 

44. Tours 297 

IV. District between Paris, the Vosges, the Jura, and the Loire. 

45. From Paris to Troyes and Belfort 308 

46. From Cbalons-sur-Marne to Chaumont 325 

47. From Paris to Epinal (Vosges) 327 

a. Via Bar-le-Duc, Nancy, and Charmes 327 

b. Via Bar-le-l)uc, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt 328 

c. Via Troyes, Chaumont, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt . . 328 

d. Via Troyes, Jussey, and Darnieulles 330 

48. From Nancy to Dijon 333 

a. Via Toul, Neufchateau, and Culmont-Chalindrey . . . 333 

b. Via Mirecourt and Culmont-Chalindrey 334 

c. Via Epinal, Vesoul, and Gray 33? 

49. From Epinal to Belfort. Plombieres 336 

60. From Nancy to Strassburg 340 

51. From Lun^ville to St. Die' and Epinal 343 

52. Excursions into the Vosges from St. Die' 346 

53. Excursions into the Vosges from Epinal 348 

54. From Belfort (Strassburg) to Dijon .361 

a. Via Montbeliard and Besanc.jn 361 

b. Via Vesoul and Besancon '. . 361 

55. Besancon ' 363 

56. From BesanQon to Neuchatel [ 368 

57. From Besani^on (Belfort) to Bourg (Lyons) ...!!. 371 



i MAPS AND PLANS. 

Konte Pag*; 

58. Kxcursions In the .Jura ... ^^73 

59. From Paris to Dijon 386 

60. Dijon 394 

61. From Dijon to Neucliatel and to Lausanne , 403 

62. Le Morvan. Auxerre. Autun 407 

63. From Dijon to Nevers 415 

a. Via <3hagny, Montchanin, and Le Creusot 415 

b. Via Chagny and Aiitun 418 

64. From Paris to Nevers 423 

a. Via Fontainebleau and Montargis 423 

b. Via Corbeil and Montargis . . 423 

c. Via Orldans and Bourges .... 426 

Index 437 



Maps. 

1. Map of North- Eastern France^ before the title-page. 

2. The Environs of Faris, p. 66. 

3. The Valley of the Meuse, p. 78. 

4. The Seine, from Pont-de-rArehe to Le Havre, p. 138. 

5. The Environs of Mont SI. Michel, p. 194. 

6. The Ranee, from Dinan to St. Malo, p. 194. 

7. The Morbihan, p. 252. 

8. The Ghdteaux on the Loire, p. 282. 

9. Map of Eastern France (Central Part), p. 304. 

10. The Central Vosges Mis., from the Schneeberg to the Col du Bonhomme, 

p. 345. 

11. The Southern Vosges Mts., from Fraize to Giromagny, p. 319. 

12. The Environs of Qirardmer, p. 350. 

13. The French Jura (South Part), p. 375. 

14. The French Jura (North Part), p. 383. 

15. Map of North-Western France, after the Index. 

16. Railway Map of France, at the end of the book. 



1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 

14. 
15. 
16. 

17. 



Abbeville . 
Ajniens . 
Angers . 
Arras . . 
Autun . . 
Auxerre . 
Bar-le-Duc 
Beaune . 
Beauvais . 
Belfort. . 
BesanQon. 
Blois . . 
Boulogne - sur 
Mer . . . 
Bourges . 
Brest . . 
Caen . . . 
Calai.^ . . 



Page 

12 

24 

272 

18 

418 

40S 

106 

416 

33 

323 

364 

292 

6 
42S 
229 
168 

3 



Plans of Towns. 

Page 

Chalons - sur - 36. 

Marne 103 37. 

Charleville ... 94 38. 

Chartres .... 211 39. 

Cherbourg ... 153 40. 

Dieppe 119 41. 

Dijon 394 42. 

Dinan 194,43. 

Dole 404|44. 

Douai 42 [45. 

Dunkirk .... 38;46. 

Epinal 331 147. 



Page 
Mont St. Michel 194 
Nancy . 
Nantes . 



Ficamp 
Langrex . 
Laon . . 
Le Havre. 
Le Mans . 
Lille. . . 
Miziires . 



147 48. 
319'49. 

75|50. 
140 51. 
216 52. 

52I53. 

94154. 



Nevers . . 
OrUans . 
Paris . . 
Proving . 
Rennes. . 
Rheims . 
Rouen . . 
St. Malo . 
St. Quentin 
Sens . . . 
Tours . . 
Trouville . 
Troyes . . 
Valenciennes 
Vannes . 
Verdun 



110 
257 
432 
286 
1 
309 
205 

84 
128 
194 

72 
389 
296 
152 
312 

46 
252 

91 



Plan of Amiens Cathedral, p. 26. 



INTRODUCTION. 



I. Language. Money. Expenses. Passports. 
Custom House. Octroi. 

Language. A slight acquaintance with French is indispensahle 
for those who desire to explore the more remote districts of Northern 
France, but tourists who do not deviate from the heaten track will 
generally find English spoken at the principal hotels and the usual 
resorts of strangers. If, however, they are entirely ignorant of the 
French language , they must he prepared occasionally to submit to 
the extortions practised hy porters, cah-drivers, and others of a like 
class, which even the data furnished by the Handbook will not 
always enable them to avoid. 

Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely 
convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France issues 
Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs, and these 
are the only banknotes current in the country. The French Gold 
coins are of the value of 100, 50, 40, 20, and 10 francs; Silver coins 
of 5, 2, 1, and 1/2 franc; Nickel of 25 centimes; Bronze of 10 and 
5 centimes (100 centimes = 1 franc). '/Sow' is the old name, still 
in common use, for 5 centimes ; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes 
called 'une piece de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, 
1/2 fr. = 10 sous. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold coins are 
received at their full value. Belgian, Swiss, and Greek silver coins 
(except Swiss coins with the seated figure of Helvetia) are also current 
at full value ; but Italian silver coins, with the exception of the 5-lira 
pieces, Roumanian, Spanish, and Papal silver coins, and all foreign 
copper coins should be refused. The stranger should also be on his 
guard against counterfeit silver coins, and should refuse obsolete 
coins such as those with heads of Louis Philippe or of Napoleon 
without the laurel wreath. 

English banknotes and gold are also generally received at the 
full value in the larger towns. The table at the beginning of the 
book shows the comparative value of the French, English, American, 
and German currencies, vphen at par. Circular Notes or Letters of 
Credit, obtainable at the principal English and American banks, are 
the most convenient form for the transport of large sums; and their 
value, if lost or stolen, is recoverable. 

The traveller should always be provided with small change 
(petite monnaie), for the purpose of gratuities, etc. 

Expenses. The expense of a tour in Northern France depends of 
course on the tastes and habits of the traveller; but it may be stated 



xli I. PASSPORTS, CUTSOM HOUSE, OCTROI. 

generally that travelling in France is not more expensive than in 
most other countries of Europe. The pedestrian of moderate require- 
ments, who is tolerably proficient in the language and avoids the 
beaten track as much as possible, may limit his expenditure to 
12-16 fr. per diem, while those who prefer driving to walking, choose 
the dearest hotels, and employ the services of guides and comrais- 
sionnaires must be prepared to spend at least 20-30 fr. daily. Two 
or three gentlemen travelling together will be able to journey more 
economically than a solitary tourist, but the presence of ladies 
generally adds to the expenses of the party. 

Passports are now dispensed with in France, but they are often 
useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring admission to 
museums on days when they are not open to the public, obtaining 
delivery of registered letters, etc. Pedestrians in a remote district will 
often find that a passport spares them much inconvenience and delay. 

Passports may be obtained direct from the Foreign Otfice (fee 2a.), or 
through G. Smith <& Sons, 23 Craven St., Charing Cross (fee 4«.)» Buts, 
4 Adelaide St., Strand (fee 4«.)i Thos. Cook <t Sons, Ludgate Circus (fee 3». 
6c^,); and Henrp Blacklock & Co. ('Bradshaw's Guides'), 59 Fleet St, (fee 5s,). 
— In the United States applications for passports should be made to the 
Passport Bureau, State Department, Washington, D.C, 

Sketching, photographing, or making notes near fortifi.ed places 

sometimes exposes innocent travellers to disagreeable suspicions or 

worse, and should therefore be avoided. 

Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de- 
tention at the 'douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re.- 
commended to avoid carrying witb them any articles that are not 
absolutely necessary. Cigars, tobacco, and matches are chiefly sought 
for by the custom-house officers. The duty on cigars amounts to 
about 135., on tobacco toG-lOs. per lb. Articles liable to duty should 
always be 'declared'. Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to 
suspicion and may in certain cases be confiscated. The examination 
of luggage generally takes place at the frontier-stations, and travellers 
should superintend it in person. Luggage registered to Paris is 
examined on arrival there. 

OcTBOi. At the entrance to the larger towns an 'Octroi', or muni- 
cipal tax, is levied on all comestibles, but travellers' luggage is usu- 
ally passed on a simple declaration that it contains no such articles. 
The officials are, however, entitled to see the receipts for articles 
liable to duty at the frontier, 

II. Eoutes to Northern France. 
The quickest and easiest routes from England to Northern France 
are offered by the express through-services from London to Paris 
(see p. xiii). The steamers on the other routes, which are on the 
whole cheaper and may be more convenient for some travellers, 
will generally be found fairly comfortable. Particulars as to the days 



II. ROUTES TO NORTHERN FRANCE. xiii 

and honrs of starting, whicli are liable to vary, may be found in 
Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide (monthly; 2s.). Most vis- 
itors to France from the United States will probably travel via Eng- 
land, but those who prefer to proceed direct have opportunities by 
the weekly steamers of the Compagnie Oenerale Transatlantique from 
New York to Le Havre, the weekly steamers of the Hamburg- American 
Line and the Norddeutscher Lloyd from New York to Cherbourg, the 
weekly steamers of the Holland- American Line from New York to 

Boulogne, etc. 

Trains de Luxe. Besifles the ordinary train-service to and from Calais, 
CherbourjZ, Paris, Dijon, Strassburg. etc., there are a number of trains 
de luxe with restaurant-cars (d^j. 5, D. 7 fr.) and sleeping-cars, carrying 
first-class passengers only, who pay a supplement in addition to the ordinary 
fare. Tickets must be obtained in advance from the International Sleeping 
Car Co. (20 Cockspnr St., London, or 5 Boulevard des Capucines, Paris), 
from whom all information may he obtained. In many cases these trains do 
not accept passengers except for comparatively long distances. (1). Simplon 
Express from Calais to Venice via Paris, Dijon, and Pontarlier. daily. 
(2). Engadine Express from Calais to St. Moritz via Paris, Troyes. Belfort, 
and Bale, daily in summer. (3). Mediterranean Express from Calais to 
Ventimiglia via Paris and Dijon, in winter only. (4). New York Express 
from Cherbourg for Le Havre) to Paris in connection with the transatlantic 
liners. (5). Trouville Express from Trouville to Paris, daily in summer. 
(B). Nord Express from Paris to Berlin via St. Quentin and Liege, daily. 
(7). Orient Express from Paris to Budapest via Nancy and Strassburg, daily. 
(8). Carlsbad Express from Paris via Nancy and Strassburg, daily in summer. 
(9). Savoy Express from Paris to Aix-les-Bains via Dijon and Culoz, thrice 
weekly. (10). Barcelona Express from Paris via' Dijon, twice weekly, etc. 

a. Express Routes from London to Paris. 

Via Dover and Calais. Express thrice daily, starting from Charing 
Cross, Cannon Street, Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Paul's stations, 
in 73/4-9 hrs.; fares 2Z. IBs. 8rf., il. 19s. 8<f., and il. bs. 6d. f3rd cl. by night 
service only), return-tickets, valid for one month, kl. 15s. 9d., 3^ 9s. lOd., 
and 21. Os. 6<i. — From London to Calais., 3-4 hrs., fares il. 10«. 2d., il. 
is. Id., 14s. 6rf. — From Dover to Calais, I-I1/4 hr.. fares 10s. lid., 8s. lid. 

Via Folkestone and Boulogne. Express twice daily from Charing 
Cross and Cannon St. stations, in 7-8 hrs., fares 21. 10s., il. 14s. Pd., and il. 
2s. 9d., return-tickets, valid for a month, il. 7s. lOd., 3l. St., il. 17s. bd. — 
From London to Boulogne, 31/2-41/2 hrs., fares il. 13s. 6d., il. Qs. lOd., 12s. 
6i. — From Folkestone to Boulogne, I1/2-2 hrs., fares 9s. 5d., 7s. bd. 

Via Newhaven and Dieppe. Express twice daily from Victoria and 
London Bridge stations in 83/4-93/4 hrs.; fares 88s. 7d.," 28s., 18«. 7d. (3rd cl. 
by night service only), return-tickets, valid for a mon1h, 31. 8s. bd., 21. 
9s. Id., il. 13s. Bd. — From. London to Dieppe, 51/2-61/2 hrs., fares il. Ss. Id., 
20»., 14s. 9d. — From Netchaven to Dieppe, 3V2-4 hrs., fares 15s. 3d., lis. 7d. 

Via Southampton and Le JFIavre. Express from Waterloo station 
(daily, except Sun.), in I21/2-I4 hrs., fares il. 13s. lOd., il. 4s. lOd. (no 3rd 
cl.), return -tickets, valid for a month, 21. 16s. 8d., 2l. Os. 8d. — From 
London (0 Le Havre, 10-12 hrs., il. 8s. 4d., il. Os. lOd. — From Southampton 
to Le Havre, 7-8 hrs., fares 23s., 17s. 

b. Other Routes. 

From Southampton to St. Malo, steamer almost daily from Aug. 1st 
to Sept. 15th (Sun. excepted), at other times every Tues., Thnrs., &Sat., 
in 12 hrs.-, returning every Mon., Wed^ & Frid. Fares 23s. lOd.. 17s. lOd., 
return-tickels, valid for sin months. 36.'. ?d.. 26s. 8d. Fares frrm I-ondou 
to St. Malo 35s. lOd., 25s. lOd., return -tickets B3s. 8d., 41s. 2d. 



xiv IIJ. I'LAN OF TOUR. 

Fkom Southamiton to CirERBouRfJ, every Tuca., Thiirs., & Sat., in 7 hra. 
returning every Mon., Wed., <fe Frid. Fares 20s. U)d., lAs. lOrf., return- 
tickets, valid for ."ix months, SAs.Sd., 24«. SJ. ; from London to Cherbour" 
30<. Ad., 20s. iOd., return-tickets 46*. 8d., Ms. 8d. °' 

VIa the Channel Islands, whicli are reached in summer by daily 
steamers from Southampton and from Weymouth (in winter thrice weekly 
from each port) or by weekly steamer from Plymf)uth (.^ee below). — Fkom 
Jkrsey to St. Malo (3 hrs.), every Wed. & Frid. (returning every Wed. 
<fe Sat.), and to Granville (SVz hrs.), every Mon. & Thurs. (returning 
every Tues. & Thurs.). Fares to St. Malo ^-s. iOd., bs. iOd., return-tickets, 
valid for a month, 13<. 8(7., 9.<. ^d.; to Granville 8«., 5*., return-tickets, 12«. 
Is. Qd.; from London to Granville 35s., 25s., return-tickets 52s., 39«. 6<i. — 
From Guernset to Cherbourg via Alderney, every Tues. (returning every 
Wed.) in 5-6 hrs.; fares 10s., Is. 6rf., return- tickets, valid for a month, 
155. 6d., 10«. — Friim Goernsey to St. Malo direct and to Binic, weekly 
in each case; fares 8s. Gd., 6a. Qd., return-tickets 13s., lis. Qd. — From 
GoREY TO Carteret, daily in summer in 1 hr. ; fares 7 fr. 55, 5 t'r 5 
return 11 fr. 25, 7 fr. 50 c. 

From Pltmocth to St. Briedc via Guernsey and Jersey, Anglo-French 
Steamship Co., every Mon. (returning every Wed.); fares 21»., 14s., return- 
tickets 32s., 22«. ' 

From Pltmodth to Brest (10 hrs.), Great Western Railway Co's Steamer 
('Antelope'), every Sat. (returning Tues. orWed.) ; fare 10s., return-ticket 15a. ; 
landing-dues at Brest 2 fr. (Is. 8c?.). 

To Bodlogne direct. From London. Bennett Steamship Co.. thrice 
weekly in 9-10 hrs. (6 hrs.' river passage) ; fare 10s., return I7s, iOd. — 
General Steam Navigation Co., thrice weekly in summer 5 fares 8«. Gd., return 
lis. Gd. — From Goole. Bennett Steamship Co., thrice weekly in ca. 20 hrs. 

To Ddnkirk. From Leith, Geo. Gibson & Go's Steamer every Thurs. 
in ca. 36 hrs. (30s.; return-ticket 50s.). Steamers also every few days from 
London (Wapping) in 10-12 hrs. (fare 10s., retura 15s.); every week from 
Hull (about 24 hrs.); and every fortnight from Liverpool. 

Steamers also sail at intervals of a week or longer from Liverpool to. 
Le Havre, to St. Nqzaire, etc. (see 'Bradshaw'). 

m. Period and Plan of Tour. Syndicats d'Initiative. 

Season. Most of the districts described in this Handbook may 
be visited at any part of the year, but winter is, of course, the least 
pleasant season, while spring and autumn are on the whole prefer- 
able to summer, especially A\hen a large proportion of the trav- 
eller's time is spent in the cities and larger towns. The bathing- 
season at the watering-places on the N. coast generally lasts from 
June to September. Excursions in the elevated region of the Vosges 
and the Jura are not possible, or at least pleasant, except in summer. 

Plan. The traveller is strongly recommended to sketch out a plan 
of his tour in advance , as this, even though not rigidly adhered 
to, will be found of the greatest use in aiding him to regulate his 
movements, to economise his time, and to guard against overlook- 
ing any place of interest. English and American tourists are apt to 
confine their interest in N. France to the districts through which 
they are whirled by the express-trains from the N. seaports to Paris; 
but the more leisurely traveller will find much to arrest his atten- 
tion and employ his time pleasantly in various parts of the country 
coming within the scope of this Handbook. Though N. France is 



111. PLAN OF TO UK. 



iv 



less richly gifted with natural beauty than those parts of the country 
which border on the Alps or the Pyrenees, it still affords much 
attractive scenery in Normandy, Brittany, the valley of the Seine, 
the Vosges, and the Ardennes. On the other hand it is extremely 
rich in architectural monuments of the greatest importance, con- 
taining an unparalleled series of magnificent Gothic churches at 
Rouen, Amiens, Beauvais, Caen, Chartres, Tours, Rheims, Bourges, 
Orleans, Troyes, and Laon, while the Romanesque style is well illus- 
trated in the abbey-churches of Caen and in many smaller examples. 
The ancient Abbey of Mont St. Michel is, perhaps, the most pictur- 
esque edifice in France. Among secular edifices may be mentioned 
the magnificent Palais de Justice aX Rouen, the Renaissance chateaux 
ofBlois, Chambord, and others in Touraine, the mediaeval castles of 
Pierrefonds, Coucy, Chateau Gaillard, and Rambures , the mansion 
of Jacques Coeur at Bourges, and the quaint old houses of Lisieux, 
Rouen^ etc. The art collections of Lille are worthy of a great capital, 
and those of Douai, Caen, Valenciennes, Rennes, Nantes, Dijon, 
and BesanQon are also of considerable value. The busy commercial 
harbour of Le Havre and the military ports of Cherbourg and Brest 
deserve a visit, while Nancy, the ancient capital of Lorraine, has a 
special interest for the historical student. Lastly, mention must be 
made of the imposing megalithic antiquities of Carnac. 

The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers, 
and to him alone the beautiful scenery of some of the more remote districts 
is accespible. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted 
stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilette, a light waterproof, and a 
stout umbrella will generally be found a sufficient equipment. Strong 
and well-tried boots are essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated 
knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome, 
and its position may be shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve 
of clothing should not exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which 
can be easily wielded, and may be forwarded from town to town by rail. 

The following itineraries group the towns of the various districts 
in the order in which they may be visited most expeditiously and 
conveniently. The most important points are indicated by asterisks 
and the names within brackets show the excursions to be made 
from the town immediately preceding in the list. The names of 
places important only as railway-junctions are printed in italics. The 
maps at the beginning and end of the Handbook will enable trav- 
ellers to modify these itineraries or to combine them with each other. 




(Malo-les-Bains), Calais. 

Normandy (15-20 day?;). 'Dieppe (Ku, Le Tr^port), *Rnuen, *Le Havre 
(HoDflour, Etretat, Fdcamp), Trouville, '-Lisieux, Mizidon, Falaise, Mizidon, 
( aen iCab( urg and watering-places in Calvados), *Bayeux. 'Cherbourg 
l!-'„"*^"*^^^ ^^*' ^"^' Folligny, Granville, Avranches (*Mcnt St. Michel), 
tolhgny, Virc, Briouze, Ka(;noles-de-rOrne, Couterne, Alencon, Sees, Surdon, 
Avgpntati Lnigle, Vernouil, Droux, Pari-. Thence via Evreux and I'lbeuf, 
or via Mantes and Vernon, lo Rouen. 



xvl IV. RAILWAYS. 

Brittany and the Banks of the Loire (20-30 da ysj. 'St. Jlahi (Paraine, 
Caiualc, Dinard, 'Mont St. Michel), *Dinan (St. Cast, 'Cap Fn'hcl), La 
Bro/iinUre, 'Rennes, St. Bricuc (Val Andrd, Ercjuy, Binic, St. Quay), Gtiin- 
gamp, Paimpol, Treguier, Lannion ("Environs), Pfoworei, "Morlaix (*St. Pol- 
de-Leon, Roscoff, "Huelgoat, Carhaix), Landerneau (Lesneven, Ploundour- 
Trez), 'Brest (Lannilis, Le Conquet, '^Brest Roads, Morgat), Landerneau, 
Chateaulin, *Quimper (Douarnenez, Audierne, *P(iinte du Raz, Pont-rAbbe, 
•Penmarc'h), Rosporden, Concarneau, Roaporden, Quimperle (Pont-Aven), 
Lorient, Henne])ont, "Auray (St. Anne-d'Auray, Pontivy, *Carnac, Quiberon, 
'Belle-Ile), 'Vannes (Golfe du Morbihan), Questembert, Ploerniol (Mosselin), 
Questembert, Redon, Savcnay, St. Kazaire (Lc Pouliguen, Guc'rande, Le 
Croisic), Savenay, *Nante,s, Ancenis, *Angers, Saumur, Port lioulet, ''Chinon, 
*Azay-le- Rideau, *Tour8 (*Locbes, "Chenonceaux), "Amboise ('Cbcnfin- 
ceaux), "Chaumont-sur-Loire, "Blois (Beauregard, Clieverny, "Chambord), 
•Vendome, Chateaudun, Paiap, "Orleans, Etampes, Paris. Thence via Ram- 
bouillet, *Charfres, *Le Mans, Laval (Mayenne), *Vitre, Fougeres, Pontorson 
(•■Mont St. Michel), and Del to St. Malo. 

Champagne, Ardennes, and Vosgea (20-30 days). Paris, Meaux, La 
Ferte-Milon, Villers-Cotterets, *Soissons, Compiegne ('Pierrefonds), Koyon, 
"St. Quentin, Tergnier, *Laon (*Coucy-le-Chateau), Hirson^ Mf^zieres-Cbarle- 
ville ("Valley of the Meuse, Givet, Sedan), "Rheims, Epemay, *Chalons- 
sur-Mame, Bar-le-Duc, L4rouville, St. Mibiel, Verdun, Conflans-Jarny^ Pnnt- 
a-Mousson, *Nancy (*Toul), Lundville , *St, Did, Laveline , "Gdrardraer 
(*Longenaer, the *Sehlucht, the "Hobneck), Remiremont (Cornimont, "Bus- 
sang, "Welsche Belchen), ''Epinal, Aillevillers (*Plombieres, *Val d'Ajol), 
Luxeuil, *Belfort, Vesoul, VHrey^ Bourbonne-les-Bains, Viirey, 'Xangres, 
Chauniont, *Troye8, Longueville^ "Provins, Longueville, Paris. 

Burg'undy and Franche-Comte (20-30 days). Paris, Melun, *Fontaine- 
bleau, *Sens , Joigny, "Auxerre, 'Vdzelay, Avallon, Semur, Les Laumes, 
*Dijon ('Beaune), Auxonne, *Dole, *Besancon, U Hdpital-du-Orot-Boit (Lods), 
Pontarlier, *Mouthe, "^Morez, * Champ ag'nole, Andelot^ Mouchard ('Salins), 
Poligny, Lons-le-Saunier, *St. Claude, the*P'aucille, Gex, Bellegarde^ *Bourg, 
Macon, Tournns, •Chalon-sur-Saone, Chagny^ Autun, Etang^ Le Creusot, 
St. Oengoux, Cluny, Paray-le-Monial, ='Moulins, *Nevers, Saincaize, *Bourgei, 
Cosne, Gien, St. Benoit-sur-Loire, 'Orleans, Montargls, Paris. 

Syndicats d'Initiative. Travellers who propose to pay more 
than a passing visit to any of the chief excursion-centres -will find 
the so-called Syndicats d'Initiative of great use. These are local as- 
sociations, which have sprung up during the last ten years or so, 
for the purpose of collecting and distributing gratuitously all in- 
formation of interest to tourists with regard to local resources and 
attractions, curiosities and monuments, means of communication,, 
etc. Many of them publish useful little local guides (often gratis) 
and some of them organize excursions at fixed prices. The addresses 
of the principal Syndicats will be found in the Handbook. 

IV. Railways. Public Conveyances. 

Railways. The districts treated in this Handbook are served 
mainly by the lines of the Nord., Est^ Paris-Lyon-Medi^ erranee, and 
Orleans railways, and by the Chemin de Fer de t Quest (a state-line 
since 1909) and the other Government lines (Beseau de I'Etat). 

The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c, 
2nd cl. 12 c, 3rd cl. 8 c, to which a tax of 10 c. on each ticket 
costing more than 10 fr. is added. The prices given in our route- 
headings include this tax. The mail trains Ctrnins rapides) generally 



IV. RAILWAYS. xvii 

convey flrst-class passengers only, and the express trains (Hrains 
express' ) flrst-class and second-class only. The flrst-class carriages 
are good, but the second-class are often poor and the third- 
class on the Nord and Quest lines are not always furnished with 
cushioned seats. Generally speaking, however, the rolling-stock has 
been considerably improved within recent years; and corridor- 
coaches (wagons h couloir) are found in most of the principal trains. 
In winter all the carriages are heated. The trains are generally pro- 
vided with smoking carriages, and in the others smoking is allowed 
unless any one of the passengers objects. Ladies' compartments are 
also provided. The trains invariably pass each other on the left, so 
that the traveller can always tell which side of a station his train 
starts from. The speed of the express-trains is about 35-45 M. per 
hour, but that of the ordinary trains is very much less. — Inter- 
preters are found at most of the large stations. — Excursion Trains 
('trains de plaisir') should as a rule be avoided, as their cheapness 
is more than counterbalanced by their discomfort. 

Sleeping Carriages (Wagons-Lits) are provided on all the main lines, and 
the 'Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits"' has an office at Paris (Bonl. 
des Capucines 5). Dining Cars ( Wagons- Restaurants) are also run in the chief 
day expresses (dej. 2V4-4, D. 31/2-6 fr.). Wine is extra (half-a-bottle, 1 fr.). 

Pillows and Coverlets may he hired at the chief stations (1 fr.). 

The following are some of the expressions with which the railway 
traveller in France should be familiar: Railway-station, la gave (also 
Vembarcaddre) ■■, booking-office, le guichet or bureau; first, second, or third 
class ticket, un billet de premiere, de seconde, de troisiime classe; to take a 
ticket, prendre un billet; to register the luggage, /aire enregistrer les bagages; 
luggage-ticket, bulletin de bagage; waiting-room, salle d^attenie; refreshment 
room, le buffet (third-class refreshment-room, la buvette); platform, le perron, 
le trottoir; railway-carriage, le wagon; compartment, le compartiment, le coupi; 
smoking compartment, fumeurs; ladies' compartment, dames seules ; guard, 
conducteur ; porter, facteur; to enter the carriage, monter en wagon; take your 
seats! en voiturel alight, descendre; to change carriages, changer de voiture; 
express train to Calais, le train express pour Calais, Pexpress de Calais. 

Time Tablbs. The most trustworthy information as to the de- 
parture of trains is contained in the Indicateur Chaix des Chemins 
de Per, published weekly and sold at all the stations (1 fr. 25 c.^. 
There are also separate and less bulky time-tables CLivrets Chaix') 
for the different lines: du Nord, de TEst, de I'Ouest, etc. (50 c). 

Railway-time is always that of Paris, but the clocks in the in- 
terior of the stations, by which the trains start, are purposely kept 
five minutes slow. Belgian (Greenwich or West Europe) railway 
time is 4 min. behind, and 'Mid Europe' time (for Germany, Switzer- 
land, and Italy) 55 miu. in advance of French railway-time. 

Tickets. Travellers must purchase their tickets before entering 
the waiting-rooms, and they are not generally admitted to the plat- 
form until the train is ready to receive them. No one is admitted 
to the platform to take leave of friends without a platform-ticket 
(lOc), which may usually be obtained from the ticket-checker. 
Tickets for intermediate stations are usually collected at the 'sor- 
tie' : those for termini, before the station is entered. 

Hakdkkk,r"s ^\)rtl'e^n France. 5th Edit. b 



xviii IV. RAILWAYS. 

RuTURN Tr(;KETS (Billets d'aller et retour) are issued by all the 
railway-companies at a reduction of '20-25 per cent or even more. 
The length of time for which these tickets are available varies with 
the distance and with the company by which they are issued; those 
issued on Sat. and on the eves of great festivals are available for 
three days or for four days if Mon. be a festival. The recognized 
festivals are New Year's Day, Easter Monday, Ascension Day, Whit- 
Monday, the 'Fete Nationale' (July 14th), the Assumption (Aug. 
15th), AH Saints' Day (Nov. 1st), and Christmas Day. — Special 
return-tickets, valid for longer periods, are issued for the various 
watering-places and summer and winter-resorts (billets de bains de 
mer and de stations thermales). These must be applied for a day 
or two in advance; see the Indicateur (p. xvii). 

Circular Tour Tickets (^Billets de Voyages Circulaires' ) are of 
two kinds, viz. ^h itineraires fixes' (routes arranged by the railway 
company), and '^ itineraires facultatifs' (routes arranged to suit 
individual travellers). The former are convenient as they are issued 
at reduced fares, with liberal arrangements as to breaking the jour- 
ney, but they are not usually granted to third-class passengers. The 
latter, though issued for all three classes, are subject to a variety 
of conditions that practically cancel the ostensible advantages — 
The so-called Rundreise Tickets ( Voyages internationaux h itineraires 
facultatifs)^ with routes arranged to meet the wishes of individual 
travellers, are, however, much more convenient. These tickets 
(books of coupons) are not issued for distances under 600 kil. 
(373 M.) reckoned from the first Continental station reached from 
England (e. y. Calais, Dieppe), and they must include a section 
(however short) on some foreign railway beyond Fraiice. (The rail- 
ways of Great Britain, Spain, Portugal, Russia, and Greece are not 
included in this international arrangement.) Tickets of this kind 
for distances up to 2000 kil. are valid for 45 days, for 2001-3000 kil. 
for 60 days, beyond that distance for 90 days. They allow of no 
free luggage, but permit the journey to be broken without formality 
at any of the stations named in them. If the traveller alight at any 
other station he must at once apply to the Chef de gare for recog- 
nition of the break of journey. Some express-trains are not avail- 
able for short distances by the holders of these tickets. — Tickets 
of all the above-mentioned kinds and full information may be ob- 
tained in London (at the principal stations of the southern rail- 
ways and at the ordinary tourist-agencies) as well as in the chief 
towns of France. Consult also the Indicateur (p. xvii). 

Luggage. Travellers within France are allowed 30 kilogrammes 
(66 Engl, lbs.) of luggage free of charge; those who are bound for 
foreign countries are allowed 25 kilogr. only (55 lbs.) ; 10 c. is char- 
ged for booking. On the Belgian, Swiss, and Alsatian lines all lug- 
gage in the van must be paid for. In all cases the heavier luggage 
must be booked, and a ticket procured for it; this being done, the 



V. CYCLING. xix 

traveller need not enquire after his 'impedimenta' until he arrives 
and presents his ticket at his final destination (where they will be 
kept in safe custody, several days usually gratis). Where, however, 
a frontier has to be crossed, the traveller should see his luggage 
cleared at the custom-house in person. At most of the railway- 
stations there is a consigne, or left-luggage office, where a charge of 
10 c. per day is made for one or two packages, and 6 c. per day for 
each additional article. Where there is no consigne the employes 
will generally take care of luggage for a trifling fee. It is usual to 
give the railway-porters (facteurs) a few sous for their services. 

The enormous weight of the large trunks uaed by some travellers not 
infrequently causes serious injury to the porters who have to handle them. 
Heavy articles should therefore always be placed in the smaller packages. 

There are no Refreshment Rooms (Buffets) except at the principal 
stations:, and as the viands are generally indifferent, the charges high, 
and the stoppages brief, the traveller is advised to provide himself be- 
forehand with the necessary sustenance and consume it at his leisure in 
the railway-carriage. Baskets containing a cold luncheon are sold at some 
of the buffets for 3-4 fr. 

Public Conveyances. The old French Diligences^ with their 
coupe, rumble, and inside places at varying prices, have now been 
almost superseded by Omnibuses^ equally comfortless vehicles, in 
which, however, there is no distinction of fares. Some of the chief 
tourist routes, however, are now served by Motor Omnibuses (^Anto- 
bus), superior in equipment as well as in speed. Vehicles which 
run in connection with the railways have a fixed tariff, but in other 
cases the fare should be ascertained beforehand. — Hotel Omni- 
buses^ see p. xxi. 

Hired Carriages (Voitures deLouage) may be obtained at all the 
principal resorts of tourists at charges varying from 12 to 20 fr. per 
day for a single-horse vehicle and from 25 to 30 fr. for a carriage- 
and-pair, with a pourboire to the driver of 2-5 fr. The hirers almost 
invariably demand more at first than they will ultimately accept, 
and a distinct understanding should always be come to beforehand. 
A day's journey is reckoned at about 30 M., with a rest of 2-3 hrs. 
at midday. — Saddle Horses^ Asses, and Mules may also be hired. 

V. Cycling and Motoring. 
Cycling is a popular amusement in France, and the cyclist's 
wants are everywhere fairly well provided for. Cyclists entering 
France with their machines must obtain from the customs-agent a 
cycle-permit (60 c), which must be carried on the person and pro- 
duced whenever required. If, however, the cyclist remains more than 
three consecutive months in France, he musi apply for an official 
metal badge, to be fixed on the steering-post. These badges are 
delivered free on payment of the necessary fees and the annual tax 
(3 fr.). P^ach cycle must have a badge for each seat, and must, 
moreover, be^furnished with a lamp and a boll or horn. Motor-cycles 
pay^double tax. 

b* 



XX VI. HOTELS. 

Cyclists ill France will find it advantageous to join the Touring 
CLuh de France (1)5 Avenue de la Grandc-Armco, Paris), the annual 
subscription to which is 6 fr. (6s.), includinj,' a copy of the monthly 
Gazette. The club publishes an Annuaire (2 fr.) , with a list of 
cyclists' hotels, repairers, representatives, etc. Members of the lirit- 
ish Cyclists' Touring Cluh (47 Victoria St., London, S.W.) also enjoy 
spei-ial privileges. Maps, see p. xxxv. 

Motoring enjoys an enormous vogue in France, and supplies of 
petrol and facilities for repairs are to be found in practically every 
village. On entering the country the duty on motor-cars must be 
deposited (150 fr. per 100 kg. for cars weighing not more than 
125 kg. ; 60 fr. per 100 kg. for cars above that weight) ; but the amount 
paid is refunded without reduction when the country is quitted. A 
permit of circulation and a registered number for the car as well as 
a driver's certificate must be obtained at the nearest prefecture. 

Cyclists and motorists should remember that the rule of the road 
in France is the reverse of that in England: keep to the right on 
meeting, to the left in overtaking another vehicle. 

VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Cafes. 

Hotels. Hotels of the highest class, fitted up with every modern 
convenience, are found only in the larger towns and in the more 
fashionable watering-places, where the influx of visitors is great. In 
other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial 
characteristics. The beds, however, are generally clean, and the 
cuisine tolerable. It is therefore advisable to frequent none but the 
leading hotels in places off the beaten track of tourists, and to avoid 
being misled by the appellation of 'Grand-Hotel', which is often 
applied to the most ordinary inns. 

The charges of provincial hotels are usually somewhat lower than 
at Paris, but at many of the largest modern establishments the tariff 
is drawn up on quite a Parisian scale. It is prudent, though not 
absolutely necessary, to enquire the charges in advance. The follow- 
ing are the average charges : room 2-5 fr. ; breakfast or 'premier 
dejeuner', consisting of 'cafe' an lait', with bread and butter, 
1-1 Ya fr.; luncheon or 'second dejeuner', taken about noon, 2-4 fr. ; 
dinner, usually about 7 p.m., 21/2-5 fr. An extra charge of V2-I fr. 
is not uncommonly made for lunch or dinner when served at 
separate tables. Wine, beer, or cider (the ordinary beverage of Nor- 
mandy and Brittany) is generally included in the charge for dinner, 
except in some of the larger hotels, especially in the fashionable 
watering-places. Beer is not often met with at table d'hote except 
in the second-class hotels of such towns as Boulogne and Le Havre. 
The second dejeuner will sometimes be regarded as superfluous by 
English and American travellers, especially as it occupies a con- 
siderable time during the best part of the day. A slight luncheon 
at a cafe, which may be had at any hour, will be found far more 



VI. RESTAURANTS. xxi 

convenient and expeditious. Attendance on the table d'hote is not 
compulsory, but the charge for rooms is often raised if meals are 
not taken in the house, and the visitor will scarcely obtain so good 
a dinner in a restaurant for the same price. In many hotels visitors 
are received 'en pension' at a charge of 6-7 fr. per day and upvv^ards 
(premier dejeuner sometimes extra). The usual fee for attendance 
at hotels is i fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill; if ser- 
vice is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected. 

When the traveller remains for a week or more at a hotel, it is 
advisable to pay, or at least call for the account, every two or three 
days, in order that erroneous insertions may be at once detected. 
Verbal reckonings are objectionable, except in some of the more 
remote and primitive districts where bills are never written. A 
waiter's mental arithmetic is faulty, and the faults are seldom in 
favour of the traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the 
bill at the last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions cannot 
easily be detected or rectified. Those who intend starting early in the 
morning should therefore ask for their bills on the previous evening. 

English travellers often impose considerable trouble by ordering 
things almost unknown in French usage; and if ignorance of the 
language be added to want of conformity to the customs, misunder- 
standings and disputes are apt to ensue. The reader is therefore 
recommended to endeavour to adapt his requirements to the habits 
of the country, and to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency 
in the language as to render himself intelligible to the servants. 

Articles of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup- 
boards at hotels. The traveller's own trunk is probably safer; but it 
is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a receipt 
should be required, or to send them to a banker. Doors should be 
locked at night. 

Travellers who are not fastidious as to their table-companions 
will often find an excellent cuisine, combined with moderate charges, 
at the hotels frequented by commercial travellers (voyageurs de com- 
merce^ commis-voyageurs). 

Many hotels send Omnibuses to meet the trains, for the use of 
which Y2-I fr. is charged in the bill. Before talang their seats in 
one of these, travellers who are not encumbered with luggage should 
ascertain how far off the hotel is, as the possession of an omnibus 
by no means necessarily implies long distance from the station. He 
should also find out whether the omnibus will start immediately, 
without waiting for another train. 

Restaurants. Except in the largest towns, there are few pro- 
vincial restaurants in France worthy of recommendation to tourists. 
This, however, is of little importance, as the traveller may always 
join the table d'hote meals at hotels, even though not staying in the 
house. He may also dine d, la carte, though not so advantageously, 
in which case he should note the prices beforehand. The refresh- 



XX ii VIU. POST OFFICE. 

inent-rooras at railway-stations should be avoided if possible (corap. 
p. xix) ; there is often a restaurant or a small hotel adjoinin/; the 
station where a better and cheaper meal may be obtained. 

Cafes. The Cafe is as characteristic a feature of French pro- 
vincial as of Parisian life and resembles its metropolitan prototype 
in most respects. It is a favourite resort in the evening, when people 
frequent the cafe to meet their friends, read the newspapers, or play 
at cards or billiards. Ladies may visit the better-class cafe's without 
dread, at least during the day. The refreshments, consisting of coflee, 
tea, beer, cognac, liqueurs, cooling drinks of various kinds {sorbet, 
orgeat, sirop de yroseiile or de framboise, etc.), and ices, are gen- 
erally good of their kind, and the prices are reasonable. 

VII. Public Buildings and Collections. 

The Churches, especially the more important, are generally open 
the whole day, though some are closed from noon till 2 p.m. Visitors 
may enter freely and inspect the works of art, except during the 
performance of divine service. The attendance of the sacristan or 
'Suisse' is seldom necessary; the usual gratuity is 1/2 ^^- I* i^ 
perhaps not altogether superfluous to remind visitors that they 
should move about in churches as noiselessly as possible to avoid 
disturbing those engaged in private devotion, and that they should 
keep aloof from altars where the clergy are officiating. Other inter- 
esting buildings, such as palaces, chateaux, and castles often belong 
to the municipalities and are open to the public with little or no 
formality. Foreigners will seldom find any difficulty in obtaining 
access to private houses of historic or artistic interest or to the parks 
attached to the mansions of the noblesse. 

Most of the larger provincial towns of France contain a Muske, 
generally comprising a picture-gallery and collections of various 
kinds. These are generally open to the public on Sun., and often 
on Thurs. also, from 10 or 12 to 4; but strangers are readily admitted 
on other days also for a small pourboire. 

VIII. Post and Telegraph Offices. 
Post Office. Letters (whether '■poste restante' or to the traveller's 
hotel) should be addressed very distinctly, and the name of the 
department should be added after that of the town. The offices are 
usually open from 7 a.m. in summer, and 8 a.m. in winter, to 9 p.m. 
Poste Restante letters may be addressed to any of the provincial 
offices. In applying for letters, the written or printed name, and in 
the case of registered letters, the passport of the addressee should 
always be presented. It is, however, preferable to desire letters to 
be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends 
residing. Letter-boxes (Boites aux Lettres) are to be found also at 
the railway-stations and at many public buildings, and stamps 
(timhres-poste) maybe purchased in all tobacconists' shops. An ex- 



IX. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. xxiii 

tract from the postal tariff is given below; more extensive details 
will be i'oiind in the Almanack des Pastes et Telegraphes^ 

Ordinary Letters within France, including Corsica and Algeria, 10 c. 
per 15 grammes prepaid; for countries of the Postal Union 25 c. for 

15 grammes and 15 c. for each addit. 15 grammes. (The silver franc and 
the bronze sou each weigh 5 grammes ; 15 grammes, or three of these 
coins, are equal to Vz oz. EngUah.) ^ Registered Letters (lettres recommanddes) 
25 c. extra. 

Post Cards 10 c. each, with card for reply attached 20 c. 

Post Of/ice Orders (mandats de paste) are issued for most countries in 
the Postal Union at a charge of 25 c. for every 25 fr. or fraction of 25 fr., 
the maximum sum for which an order is obtainable being 500 fr. ■■, for 
Great Britain, 20 c. per 10 fr., maximum 252 fr. 

Printed Papers (imprimis sous bande) : 5 c. per 100 grammes 5 to foreign 
countries 5 c. per 50 gr- The wrapper must be easily removable, and must 
not cover more than one-third of the packet. 

Parcels not exceeding 22 lbs. in weight may be forwarded at a moderate 
rate (60 c.-l fr. 25 c.) within France. There is also a parcel-post between 
France and various foreign countries, parcels up to 11 lbs. being conveyed 
at a uniform rate : viz. to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, 1 fr. 10c. ; 
Spain, Italy, 1 fr. 35 c. •, Great Britain, Austria, Netherlands, 1 fr. 60 c. ; etc. 
These parcels must be sealed. All parcels should be handed in at the rail- 
way-station or at the oflices of the parcel-companies, not at the post-offices. 

Telegrams. The following are the rates per word : for France, 
Algeria, and Tunis 5 c. (minimum charge 50 c.) ; Luxembourg, 
Switzerland, and Belgium I2V2 c.; Germany 15 c.; Netherlands 

16 c; Great Britain, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Spain, and Portugal 
20 c. ; Denmark 24V2 c- ; Sweden 28 c. ; Roumania, Servia, etc. 
28V2 c. ; Norway 36 c. ; Russia in Europe 40 c; Greece 53V2-5'<' c.; 
Turkey 53 c. ; New York 1 fr. 25 c. ; Chicago 1 fr. 55 c. 

Telephonic Communication 'between the principal towns, etc.; 
enquire at the telegraph-offices. 

IX. Weights and Measures. 

(In use since 1799.) 

Millier = 1000 kilogrammes = 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz. 
Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2^/5 lbs. avoirdupois = 

2^10 l^s. troy. 
Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs. 
Hectogramme (Vio kilogramme) = 10 de'cagrammes = 100 gr. 

= 1000 de'cigrammes. (100 grammes = 31/5 oz. ; 15 gr. 
= 1/2 oz. ; 10 gr. = 1/3 oz. ; 71/2 gr. = 'U o^.) 



Myriamtitre = 10,000 metres = 61/5 Engl, miles. 

Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs = about ^/s Engl. mile. 

Hectometre = 10 decametres = 100 metres. 

Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe- 
rical distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784 Paris 
feet = 3,281 Engl, feet = 1 yd. 31/3 in. 

D«'c.imr'tre ('/lo mMre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres. 



"iv X. HIHTORICAL SKETCH. 

Hectare (square hectomotre) = 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres 

= 2Y2 acres. 
Are (square decametre) = 100 sq. metres. 
De'ciare = i/iq *^'® = 10 sq.. metres. 
Centiare = y^QQ are = 1 sq. metre. 

Hectolitre = 7,0 cubic metre = 100 litres = 22 gallons. 
Decalitre = i/^oo cubic metre = 10 litres = 21/5 gals. 
Litre, unit of capacity, = P/4 pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts. 

The thermometer most commonly used in France is the Centi- 
grade; Re'aumur's is much less common. The freezing point on both 
of these is marked 0°, the boiling-point of the former lOO'^, of the 
latter SO'', while Fahrenheit's boiling-point is 212" and his freezing- 
point 32". To reduce Centigrade to Fahrenheit, multiply the number 
of degrees above 0" by 1.8 and add 32 (if below 0'^ subtract from 32). 

X. Historical Sketch. 

Merovingians. The history of France, properly so called, be- 
gins at the end of the fifth century of the Christian era, when 
Clovis I. (481-511 ), son of Childeric, king of the Ripuarian Franks 
of Tournai,'expelied the Romans from Northern Gaul (ca. 496), em- 
braced Christianity, and united all the Franks under his sway. The 
Merovingian Dynasty^ which he founded and which took its name 
from Meroveus, the father of Childeric, rapidly degenerated. The 
Frankish state was several times divided among different princes 
of the line, and this gave rise to long civil wars and finally to a 
deadly rivalry between Austrasia^ the kingdom of the E. Franks, 
and Neustria, that of the W. Franks. The family of Pepin, heads of 
the 'Leudes' or great vassals of Austrasia and hereditary 'Mayors of 
the Palace', first of Austrasia, and afterwards also of Neustria and 
Burgundy, took advantage of this state of affairs to seize for them- 
selves the supreme power, after Charles Martel had saved the country 
from the Saracenic invasion by the great victory of Poitiers (732). 

Carlo vingians. The first king of this dynasty was Pepin the 
Short (Le Bref), who assumed the crown in 752. His son — 

Charlemagne (768-814), from whom the dynasty is named, 
by his able administration and by his victories over the Arabs, 
Lombards, Saxons, Avars, etc., founded a vast empire, which, how- 
ever, lasted but little longer than that of Clovis. After the death of 
his son — 

Louis I. (^le Debonnaire; 814-840), his realms were divided by 
the Treaty of Verdun (843) between Louis the German, who be- 
came King of Germany; Lothaire, who got Italy, Burgundy, and 
Lotharingia or Lorraine ; and — 

Charles II. the Bald (^e Chauve; 840-877 j, who ruled over 
France. He and his three successors, Louis II. the Stammerer {le 



X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxv 

Begue; 877-879), Louis III. (879-882), and Carloman (879-884), 
proved themselves weak and incapable rulers, able neither to protect 
their kingdom from the inroads of the Normans nor their regal power 
from encroachments at the hands of the feudal nobles. 

Charles III. the Fat (le Gros; 884-887), son of Louis the 
German and himself Emperor of Germany, succeeded Carloman in 
884, but left the care of defending Paris against the Normans to 
Count Odo or Eudes, Duke of France and Count of Paris, in whose 
favour he was deposed in 887. Odo was the ancestor of the Capetian 
family (see below). 

Charles IV. (le Simple; 898-923), son of Louis le Begue, suc- 
ceeded Eudes and acquiesced in the establishment of the duchy of 
Normandy. He also was overthrown by the nobles, who put in his 
place, first, Robert (922-923), brother of Eudes, and then Raoul 
(923-936), Robert's son-in-law. Three other Carlovingians then 
bore the title of King; Louis IV. {d' Outremer; 936-946), son of 
Charles the Simple-, Lothaire (954-986); and Louis V. {le Fai- 
neant; 986-987); but these monarchs possessed less real power than 
their great subjects Hugh the Great, son of Robert, and Hugh Capet. 

Capetians. Hugh or Hugues Capet, grand-nephew of Count 
Eudes, was declared king of France in 987 and founded the Third 
or Capetian Dynasty, which furnished France for eight centuries 
with an unbroken line of monarchs, under whom the country ad- 
vanced to greatness and independence. 

Robert II. (le Pieux), 996. 

Henri I, 1031. 

Philip I., 1060. During the reigns of these three monarchs 
France suffers from feudal dissensions and wars with the Dukes of 
Normandy. William, Duke of Normandy, conquers England, 1066. 
First Crusade under Godfrey de Bouillon, 1096. 

Louis VI. {le Gros; 1108-37) encourages the growth of the 
Communes as a check upon the power of the nobles. Suger, abbot 
of St. Denis, the king's minister. 

Louis VIL {le Jeune; 1137-80) foolishly leaves his kingdom to 
take part in the Second Crusade (1147), and is further guilty of the 
great political blunder of divorcing Eleanor of Guienne andPoitou, 
who marries Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry II. of England, 
taking with her as her dowry extensive possessions in France. 

Philip II. {Auguste; 1180-1223) undertakes the Third Crusade, 
in company with Richard Coeur-de-Lion, 1189. On his return he at- 
tacks the English possessions in France, occupies Normandy, Maine, 
and Poitou, and defeats the English, Flemish, and German troops 
at Bouvines in 1214. 

Louis VIII. {le Lion; 1223-26) makes fresh conquests in the 
S. of France. 

Louis IX. {St. Louis; 1226-70) engages in the Seventh and 
Eighth Crusades, the former in Egypt, where he loses the battle of 



x-xvi X. lilSTUlUCAL ISKETCll. 

Mansourah and is taken prisoner (1249), the latter against Tunis, 
where he dies (1270). 

Philip III. {le Hardi; 1270-85) acquires Provence by inherit- 
ance. 

Philip IV. (U Bel; 1285-1314) continues the striiggle with 
England. Defeat of Courtrai (1302). Victory of Mons-en-Puelle 
(1304) and conquest of Flanders. Financial embarrassments, exac- 
tions, debased coinage, disputes with Boniface VI] I., suppression 
of the order of Knights Templar^ and removal of the papal seat to 
Avignon. The Parlement, or court of justice, becomes the central 
machine of government, and the Pouvoir Public, or Legal and Con- 
stitutional Power, grows at the expense of the feudal and ecclesi- 
astical powers. The Etats-Generaux, or Estates General, are con- 
voked for the first time. 

Louis X. (le Rutin or the Quarrelsome; 1314-16). 
Philip V. {le Long; 1316-22) and — 

Charles IV. {le Bel; 1322-28) are able administrators, but do 
not show so firm a front towards the nobles as Philip IV. With 
Charles IV. the direct line of the Capetians ends, and the crown 
passes to his cousin, Philip of Valois. 

House of Valois. Philip VI. (1328-50) defeats the Flemings 
at Cassel (1328). The ^Guerre de Cent Ans\ or Hundred Years' War 
with England (1337-1453), begins, in consequence of the rival pre- 
tensions arising from the second marriage of Eleanor of Guienne 
(see p. xxv). Battle of Crecy (1346). Edward III. of England be- 
comes master of Calais. 

John II. {le Bon; 1350-64) is defeated and taken prisoner by 
the English at Poitiers in 1356. Treaty of Bretigny (1360), con- 
firming the loss of the country to the S. of the Loire. 

Charles V. {le Sage; 1364-80). Battle of Cockerel (1364). 
The English expelled by Bertrand Du Guesclin. 

Charles VI. (1380-1422) becomes insane in 1392. Defeat of 
the Flemings under Artevelde at Rosbeck (1382). War with the 
Armagnacs and Burgundians. The French under the Constable 
d'Albret defeated by Henry V. of England at Agincourt or Azincourt 
(1415). Paris occupied by the English, 1421. 

Charles VIL (1422-61). The siege of Orleans raised by Joan 
of Arc (1429). Coronation at Rheims. Joan burned at Rouen as a 
witch (1431). The English expelled from the whole of France ex- 
cept Calais. 

Louis XI. (1461-83) breaks up the Ligue du Bien Public, which 
Ms hasty and sweeping reforms had called into existence. He sub- 
sequently displays greater astuteness, and considers no means un- 
fair that aid him to deal a mortal blow at the feudal system. He 
effects great things in administrative reform and territorial unity, and 
puts France in a condition to aspire to foreign conquests. His chief 
acquisitions are Burgundy, Franche-Comte', Artois, and Provence. 



X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xx^ii 

CirARLKS VIII. (1483-98) marries Anne of Brittany, whose duchy 
is thereby united with the French crown, and makes a temporary 
conquest of Naples (1496), on which he has hereditary claims. 

Louis XIL [le Pere du Peuple; 1498-1515), first king of the 
younger branch of the House of Valois, conqueror of Milan and (in 
alliance with the Spaniards) of Naples. Having quarrelled with his 
Spanish allies, he is defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503, 
on which occasion Bayard is present. The League of Camhrai is 
formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the main- 
land of Italy. The Venetians defeated at AynadeZZo (1609); but 
they succeed in destroying the League, and in forming the Ligue 
Sainte for the purpose of expelling the French from Italy. They 
defeat the French at Ravenna, 1512. 

Francis I. (1515-47), second-cousin and son-in-law of Louis XIL, 
defeats the Swiss at Marignano, and recovers the Duchy of Milan 
(1515). Four wars with Charles V. for the possession of Burgundy 
and Milan. Francis defeated and taken prisoner at Pavia (1525). 
Francis encourages art. The absolute power of the throne increases. 

Henri II (1547-59), husband of Catherine de Medicis, accident- 
ally killed at a tournament. Metz, Toul, and Verdun annexed to 
France (1556). Final expulsion of the English. 

Francis II. (1559-60), husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland. 

Charles IX., brother of Francis II. (1560-74). Regency of 
Catherine de Medicis, the king's mother. Beginning of the Religious 
Wars. Louis de Conde, Antoine de Navarre, and Admiral Coligny, 
leaders of the Huguenots; Francois de Guise and Charles de Lor- 
raine command the Roman Catholic army. Massacre of St. Bartho- 
lomew, 24th August, 1572. 

Henri III (1574-90), brother of his two predecessors, flees from 
Paris, where a rebellion had broken out, by the advice of his mother, 
Catherine de Me'dicis (d. 1588); assassinated at St. Cloud by Jac- 
ques CMment, a Dominican friar. 

House of Bourbon. — Henri IV (1589-1610), first monarch of 
the House of Bourbon, defeats the Roman Catholic League at Ar- 
gues in 1589, and at Ivry in 1590, becomes a Roman Catholic in 
1593, captures Paris in 1694. Sully, his minister. Religious toler- 
ation granted by the Edict of Nantes (1598). Henri, divorced from 
Margaret of Valois in 1599, marries Marie de Medicis the following 
year; assassinated by Ravaillac in 1610. 

Louis XIII. (1610-43) is at first dependent on his mother Marie 
de Medicis, the regent; she is banished to Cologne, where she dies 
in 1642. Richelieu, his minister (d. 1642). English fleet defeated 
at Re (1627); La Rochelle taken from the Huguenots. France 
takes part in the Thirty Years' War against Austria. 

Louis XIV. (1643-1715) succeeds to the throne at the age of 
five, under the regency of his mother, Anne of Austria. Ministers: 
Mazarin (d. 1661), Lcuvois (d. 1691), and Colbert (d. 1683). Gen- 



xxviii X. UISTORICAL SKETCH. 

erals: Turenne (d. 1675), Conde (d. 1686), and Luxembourg 
(d. 1696). 

War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Conde' (Due 
d'Enghien) defeats the Spaniards niRocroy in 1643, and at L<rm in 
Holland in 1645. Turenne defeats the Bavarians at Freiburg and 
at Nordlingen (1644). Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the 
Pyrenees, with Spain (1659). Louis marries Maria Theresa (1660). 

Death of Mazarin (1661). The king governs alone. 

After the death of his father-in-law, Philip IV. of Spain, Louis 
lays claim to the Low Countries. Turenne conquers Hainault and 
part of Flanders (1667) Conde' occupies the Franche-Comte. Peace 
of Aii-la-Chapelle, in consequence of the Triple Alliance (1668). 

War with Holland, Passage of the Rhine (1672). Occupation of 
the provinces of Utrecht and Guelderland. Victories of Turenne 
over the Imperial army aX Sinzheim, Ensisheim^ Muhlhausen (1674), 
and Tilrkheim (1675). Death of Turenne at Sassbach (1675). 

Admiral Duquesne defeats the Dutch fleet ne&r Syracuse (1676). 
Marshal Luxembourg defeats William of Orange at Montcassel 
(1677). Peace of Nymwegen (1678). Strassburg occupied (1681). 
Occupation of Luxembourg. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes 
(1685). Louis marries Mme. de Maintenon (1685). Devastation of 
the Palatinate (1688). Marshal Luxembourg defeats the Imperial 
troops dit Fleurus (1690) and William of Orange at Steenkerke (1692) 
and Neerwinden (1693). The French fleet under Admiral Tour- 
ville defeated by the English at La Hogue (1692). Peace of liyswyk 
(1697). 

Spanish War of Succession (1701). Victory ofVendome a.t Luz- 
zara (1702), and of Tallard at Speyer (1702). Taking of Landau 
(1702). Victory at Hbchstadt {ilQ^) ; defeat at Hochstddt. or Blen- 
heim (1704), by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene of 
Savoy. Marshal Villars defeated by Prince Eugene at Turin (1705), 
and by Marlborough and the Prince atRamillies (1709), Oudenaerde 
(1708), and Malplaquet (1709). Peaces of Utrecht (1713) and Ra- 
stadt (1714). 

This reign is the golden age of French literature, illuminated 
by such names as Corneille, Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Boileau, 
Bossuet^ Fenelon, Descartes, Pascal, La Bruyere, and Mme. de 
Sevigne. 

Louis XV. (1715-74). Duke of Orleans regent till 1723. Louis 
marries Marie Leszczynska of Poland (1725). The king takes no in- 
terest in public affairs and leads a life of the most pronounced 
selfishness and debauchery. The chief power is in the hands of the 
Due de Bourbon (1723-26), Cardinal Fleury (1726-43), the crea- 
tures of La Pompadour (1745-62) and La Dubarry , the king's 
mistresses, and the Due de Choiseul (1758-62). Austrian War 
of Succession (1740-48). Defeat at Dettingen hy George II. of 
England (1743). Defeat of the Dutch and English at Fontenoy 



X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxlx 

(1745), of the Austrians under Charles of Lorraine at Rocoux 
(1746), and of the Allies near Laeffelt (Lawfeld) in 1747. Taking 
of Maastricht and Peace of Aix-la-Ckapelle (1748). Naval war 
against England. 

The Seven Years' War (1756-63). Duke of Cumberland defeated 
by Marshal d'Estr^es at Hastenheck (1757). The French under 
Prince de Soubise defeated the same year by Frederick the Great at 
Rossbach, and in 1758 at Crefeld, by the Duke of Brunswick. The 
latter defeated by Marshal Broglie at Bergen (1760). The French 
defeated at Minden (1759), etc. Peace of Paris (1763), by which 
France loses Canada and her other possessions in North America. 
Acquisition of Lorraine (1766) and Corsica (1768). 

During this reign the moral ruin of the monarchy is consummat- 
ed and financial ruin becomes unavoidable. Voltaire, Rousseau, 
and Diderot are the most influential authors and the great leaders 
of the literary revolution. 

Louis XVI. (1774-93), married to Marie Antoinette, daughter 
of Francis I. and Maria Theresa. American War of Independence 
against England (1776-83). Exhaustion of the finances of France, 
Vergennes, Turgot, Necker, Calonne, Brienne, and Necker (a second 
time), ministers of finance. 

1789. Revolution. Assembly of the States General at Versail- 
les, 5th May. Their transformation into a Constituent Assembly, 
17th June. Oath of the Jeu de Paume, 20th June. Creation of the 
National Guard, 13th July. Storming of the Bastille, 14th July. The 
'Femmes de la Halle' at Versailles, 5th Oct. Confiscation of eccle- 
siastical property, 2nd Nov. 

1790. National Fete in the Champ-de-Mars, 14th July. 

1791. The Emigration. The royal family escape from Paris, but 
are intercepted at Vaiennes, 22nd June. Oath to observe the Con- 
stitution, 14th Sept. Assemblee Legislative. 

1792. War with Austria, 20th April. Storming of the Tuileries, 
10th Aug. The king arrested, 11th Aug. Massacres in Sept. Can- 
nonade of Valmy against the Prussians, 20th Sept. The National 
Convention opened, and royalty abolished, 21st Sept. 

First Republic proclaimed, 25th Sept. Custine enters Mayence, 
21st Oct. Battle of J emappes against the Austrians, 6th Nov. Con- 
quest of Belgium. 

1793. Louis XVI. beheaded, 21st Jan. Republican reckoning 
of time introduced, 22nd Sept. i. Reign of Terror. The queen 

• ."'" '^^^5 year had 12 monflis: Vendemiaire (month of the vendage, or 
oAI'i^T^ from 22iid Sept. to 21st Oct., Brumaire (brume, fog) 22nd Oct. to 
AHh ^ov., and Fnmaire {frimas, hoar-frost) 21st Nov. to 20th Dec, were 
the three autumn-months. — Nivose {neige, snow) 21st Dec. to 19th Jan., 
Pliiviose (^/me, rain) 20th Jan. to 18th Feb., and Ventose (vent, wind) 19th 
♦ ?n.r' 4 . ^J!;rch, winter-months. — Germinal (germe, germ), 21st March 
to 19th Apnltioreal {fleur, flower) 20th April to 19th May, and Prairial 
(prmrtc, meadow) 20th May to IStli June, spring-montlis - Messidur 



XXX 



X. niSTORlCAL SKETCH. 



beheaded, 16tli Oct. Worship of Reason introdiiceil, lOtli Nov. Loss 
ol" Helgiuiu. 

1794. Joiirdan's victory at FLeurus, 16th June. Belgium re- 
conquered. Robespierre's fall and execution, '27th July. 

1795. Conquest of ilolland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander 
of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Danican, 
4th Oct. IJiRFX'TORY established, 27th Oct. 

1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (Montenotte, MiUesimo, 
Lodi^ J/iian, Castiylione, Bassano, and Arcole). 

1797. Victory at Kivoli, 17th Jan. Taking of Mantua, 2nd Feb. 
The Austrians commanded by Archduke Charles, at first victorious, 
are defeated by Bonaparte. Peace of Campo Formio, 17th Oct. 
Change in the Directory on 18th Pructidor (4th Sept.). 

1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pt/ramids, 21st July. 
Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile (Aboukir), 1st Aug. 

1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney 
Smith. Victory of Ahoukir, 25th July. French armies repulsed in 
Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. Bonaparte returns to France. 
Fall of the Directory, 9th Nov. Establishment of the Consulate, 
24th Dec. Bonaparte First Consul. 

1800. Bonaparte's passage of the St Bernard, 13-1 6th May. 
Victories at Piacenza, Montebello, Marengo, and Hohenlinden. At- 
tempt to assassinate Napoleon at Paris, 23rd Dec. 

1801. Peace of Luneville vv^ith Germany, 9th Feb. Concordat, 
15th July. 

1802. Peace of Amiens with England, 27th March. Bonaparte 
(with Cambaceres and Lebrun) elected Consul for life, 2nd Aug. 

1804. First Empire. NAroLEON I. proclaimed Emperor by the 
Senate, 18th May; crowned by Pope Pius VII., 2nd Dec. 

1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Capitulation of Ulm, 17th 
Oct. Defeat of Trafalgar, 21st Oct. Battle of Austerlitz, 2nd Dec. 
Peace of Pressburg, 26th Dec. 

1806. Establishment of the Rhenish Confederation, 12th July. 
War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstddt, 14th Oct. Entry 
into Berlin, 27th Oct. Continental blockade. 

1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and 
Friedland. Treaty of Tilsit, 8th July. Occupation of Lisbon, 
30th Nov. 

1808. War in Spain, in order to maintain Joseph Bonaparte on 
the throne. Code Napoleon promulgated. 

1809. Conquest of Saragossa, 21st Feb. Renewed war with 
Austria. Battle of Eckmuhl, 19th-23rd April. Vienna entered, 13th 

(mot.?.?o», harvest) 19tli June to 18th July, Thermidor (therme, warmth) 19th 
July to 17th Aug., and Fruetidor (fruit, fruit) 18th Aug. to 16th Sept. 
flummer-months. — Each month had 30 days, and consisted of 3 decades, 
weeks being abolished. At the close of the year there were 5 Joura com- 
pUmentaires, ITth Sept. to 21st. — The republican calendar was discon- 
tinued by a decree of 9th Sept., 1805. 



X. HISTORICAL SKETCH. xxxl 

May. Battles of Aspern, or Essling, and Wagram, 5th and 6th July. 
Peace of Vienna^ 14th Oct. Abolition of the temporal power of 
the pope. 

1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise , daughter of 
Francis II. of Austria, 11th March. Napoleon at his zenith. 

1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and the 
Moskowa. Moscow entered, 15th Sept, Retreat begun, 19th Oct. 
Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington's victory at Salamanca. 

1813. Battles of Liitzen, Bautzen, Grossbeeren, Dresden, Katz- 
bach, Kulm, Leipzig (16-18th Oct.), Hanau, etc. 

1814. Battles of Brienne, La Rothiere, Montmirail, Laon, 
Arcis-sur-Aube, and Paris. The Allies enter Paris, 31st March. Ab- 
dication of the Emperor, 11th April. His arrival at Elba, 4th May. 

1814. Restoration. Louis XVIII. proclaimed king, 6th April. 
First Treaty of Paris, 30th May. 

1815. Napoleon's return from Elba; at Cannes on 1st, and at 
Paris on 20th March. Battles of Ligny and Waterloo, 16th and 18th 
June. Second entrance of the Allies into Paris, 7th July. Second 
Peace of Paris, 20th Nov. Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where 
he dies (5th May, 1821). 

1823. Spanish campaign, to aid Ferdinand VIIL, under the Due 
d'Angouleme, son of Charles X. 

1824. Charles X. 

1830. Conquest of Algiers. 

1830. Revolution of July (27th-29th) and fall of the Bourbons. 

House of Orleans. Louis Philippe elected King, 7th Aug. 
Continued war in Africa; consolidation of the colony of Algeria. 

1848. Revolution of February (23rd and 24th). 

1848. Second Republic. Sanguinary conflicts in Paris, 23rd to 
26th June. Louis Napoleon, son of the former king of Holland, 
elected President, 10th Dec. 

1851. Dissolution of the Assemble'e; Coup d'Etat, 2nd Dec. 

1852. Second Empire. Napoleon III. elected emperor by ple- 
tiscite, 2nd Dec. 

1854. War with Russia. Crimean Campaign. — 1855. Capture 
of Sebastopol, 8th Sept. First Universal Exhibition d^tF^iis. — 1856. 
Peace of Paris, 30th March. — 1859. War with Austria. Battles of 
Magenta (4th June) and Solferino (24th June). Peace of Villa- 
franca, 11th July. — 1862. Mexican Expedition. — 1867. Dispute 
with Prussia about Luxembourg. Second Universal Exhibition. 

1870. War with Prussia. Declaration of war, 19th July. Battles 
in August: Weissenburg (4th), Worth (6th), Spicheren (6th), Borny, 
Rezonville, and Gravelotte (14th, 16th, 18th), Beaumont (30th). 
Battle of Sedan, 1st Sept. Surrender of Napoleon III. 

Third Republic proclaimed, 4th Sept. Capitulation of Strass- 
burg, 27th Sept., and of Metz, 27th Oct. Battles near Orleans, 
2iwl-4thDec. 



xxxii XT. POLTTICAL GEOGRAPHY. 

1871. Battle of St. Quentin^ 19th Jan. Capitulation of Paris, 
'28th Jan. The Germans enter l*aris, 1st March. 

1871. Communist Insukhkction, 18th March. Seat of govern- 
ment removed to Versailles, 20th March. Second siege of Paris, 2nd 
April. Peace of Frankfort, 10th May, resigning Alsace and part of 
Lorraine to Germany. Paris occupied by the Government troops, 
26th May. — The Communist insurrection Anally quelled, 28th 
May. — M. Thiers, who had been chief of the executive since 17th 
Feb., appointed President of the Republic, 31st Aug. 

1873. Death of Napoleon III., 9th Jan. — Marshal MacMahon 
appointed President instead of M. Thiers, 14th May. Final eva- 
cuation of France by the German troops, Kith Sept. 

1876. Republican Constitution finally adjusted, 26th Feb. 

1878. Third Universal Exhibition, at Paris, 

1879. M. Jules Grevy becomes President. The Chambers of the 
Legislature return from Versailles to Paris. 

1881. Expedition to Tunis. — 1882-85. Expeditions to Tonyking 
and Madagascar. 

1887. M. Sadi Carnot becomes President in place of M. Gr^vy. 
— 1889. Fourth Universal Exhibition, at Paris. 

1894. Assassination of President Carnot. M. J. Casimir Perier 
elected president. — 1895. Resignation of Casimir Perier and election 
of M. Felix Faure to the presidency, Jan. 15th and 17th. Expedition 
to Madagascar and annexation of that island. 

1899. Death of President Faure, Feb. 17th. M. Emile Loubet 
elected president Dreyfus Trial. — 1900. Fifth Universal Exhibition, 
at Paris. — 1905. Separation of Chnrch and State (abrogation of 
the Concordat, pp. xxx, xxxv). 

1906. M. Armand Fallieres elected president. 

XI. Political Geography. 
PopuiiATioN. At the census taken in March, 1906, France, ex- 
cluding her seamen and colonies, contained 39,252,267 inhab., 
including 1,009,414 foreigners, most of whom were Belgians, 
Italians, Spaniards, or Germans. 

Constitution and Government. France has been a Republic 
since Sept. 4th, 1870. The legislative power is vested in a National 
Assembly, consisting of a Chamber of Deputies and a Senate. The 
former consists of 580 members elected by universal suffrage for 
four years. The Senate contains 300 members, elected indirectly 
through electoral colleges and holding office for nine years, one- 
third submitting to re-election every three years. The executive 
power is confided by the Assembly to a President of the Republic, 
elected for seven years, and to twelve responsible Ministers. 

Civil Administration. France is divided into 86 Departments, 
or 87, including the small Territory of Belfort, forming the sole 



XI. POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY. 



XXXUl 



fragment of Alsace left to France after the war of 1870-71. The 
departments are subdivided into S62 Arrondissements^ 2911 Cantons 
and 36,222 Communes. At the head of each department is a Prefect 
(Prefet), over each arrondissement a Sub-Prefect (Sous-Prefet)^ and 
over each commune a Maire, each of whom is assisted by a counciL 
The cantons have no special civil administration. 

The departments were formed in 1790 to replace the 32 old pro- 
vinces; their names are taken from their chief rivers or other striking 
natural features. In the following table we follow the order of the 
river-basins, beginning in the N.E. The correspondence between 
the old provinces and the departments formed out of them is only 
approximately exact. 





Ancient Provinces & Corresponding Modern Departments. 


Prov. 


Depart. 


Cap. 


Cap. 


Prov. 


Depart. 


Cap. 


Cap, 


Alsack 


Strassburg 


Maine 


Le Mans 


ITerritory of 


IBelfort 


Sarthe 


Le Mans 


Lorraine 


Nancy 


Mayenne 


Laval 




Vosges 




Epinal 


AUVEKGNE 


Clermont-Ferrand 




Meurthe-ct-Mos. 




Nancy 


Puy-de-Bdme 


Clermont-Ferr. 




Meuse 




Bar-le-Duc 


Cantal 


Aurillac 


FLANDKE(Fl;inders) 


Li 


lie 


Marche 


Guiret 


\Nord 




Lille 


1 Creuze 


Guerct 


Artois 


Arras 


Limousin 


Limoges 


\Pat-de- Calais 


Arras 


Corr&ze 


Tulle 


PlOARDIE 


Amiens 


Haute- Vienne 


Limoges 


1 Somme 


Amiens 


POITOU 


Poitiers 


Champagne 


Troyes 




Vienne 




Poitiers 




Haute- Marne 




Chaumont 




Deux-Slvres 




Niort 




Aube 




Troyes 




Vendie 




La Roche-s.-Yon 




Marne 




Chalons-sur-M. 


AUNIS 


La Rochelle 




Ardennes 




Mezieres 


Saintonge-X'-An- 




Ilk-de-Franoe 


Paris 


goulAme 


Saintes 




Seine 




Paris 


Charenie 


Angouleme 




Seine-d- Marne 




Melun 


Charmte-Infir. 


La Rochelle 




Seine- ii-Oise 




Versailles 


Guienne-(L'-Gasc. 


Bordeaux 




Oise 




Beauvais 




Hautes-Pyrin. 




Tarbes 




Aisne 




Laon 




Gers 




Auch 


NORMANOIE 


Rouen 




Tam-d-- Garonne 




Montauban 


Seine- In fir. 




Rouen 




Aveyron 




Rode/, 


Eure 




Evreux 




Lot 




Cahors 


; Calvados 




Caen 




Lot-d- Garonne 




Agen 


Orne 




Alencon 




Dordogne 




Pe'rigueux 


Manche 




St. Lo 




Gironde 




Bordeaux 


BRETAGNE(Brittauy) 


Rennes \ 




Landes 




Mont-de-Miirs. 




Ile-d-Vtlatne 




Rennes 


B6ARN-(fe-NAVARRE 


Pau 




C6tes-du-Nord 




St. Brieuc 


\liasses- Pyrin. 


|Pau 




Finistire 




Quimpei' 


Languedoc 


Toulouse 




Morbihan 




Vannes 




Lot ire 




Mende 




Loire Infir. 




Niintes 




Haute- Loire 




Le Puy 


Bt)UnBONNAl!? 


Moulins 




Ardiche 




Privas 


\Allier 


IMoulins 




Gard 




Nimes 


NiVKRNAIS 


Nevers 




HirauK 




Montpellier 


\Nif;vre 


1 Never 5 




Ande 




Carcassonne 



Bakdkkeb'b Northern France, 5th Edit. 



XIXIV 



XI. PULITICAI. GKOGKAPHY. 



Prov. 


Depart. 


Cap. 


Cap. 


Prov. 


Depart. 


Cap. 


Cap. 


Bkrky 


Bonrges 


Tarn 


Albi 


Cher 


Bo urges 


Haute- Oar onne 


Toulouse 


Indre 


Ohateauroux 


FKANCHE-CoMTft 


Besangon 


OKI-ftANAIS 


Orlians 




Doubs 




Besancon 




Loiret 


Orleans 




Haute-Sadne 




Vcsoul 




Kure-d-Loir 


Chartres 




Jura 




Lons-lc-Saun. 




Loir-tV-Cher 


Blois 


RouRGOGNE (Burg.) 


Dijon 1 


TOURAINE 


Tours 




Yonne 




Auxerre 


Indre-d- Loire 


1 Tours 




C6te-d" Or 




Dijon 


An.'ou 


Angers 




8a6ne-<i-Ijoire 




Macon 


Maine- d- Loire 


1 Angers 




Ain 




Bourg 


Ltonnais 


Lyon 


Pkovexce 


Aix 1 


Loire 


St. Etienne 


Bouches-du-Rh. 




Marseille 


Rh6ne 


Lyon 


Basses-Alpes 




Digne 


Savoie 


Chamhiry 


Var 




Dragnignan 


Haute-Savoie 


Annecy 


COMTft DE FoIX 


Foix 


Savoie 


Chambery 


1 Ariige 


|Foix 


DAUPHINfi 


Orenohle 


ROCSSILLON 


Perpignan 


Is^re 


Grenoble 


1 Pyrinies- Orient. 


Perpignan 


Ilautet-Alpes 


Gap 


CoMTfe DE Nice 


Nice 


Drdme 


Valence 


\Alpes-Marit. 


INice 


Etat d'Avignon 


Avignon 


Corse (Corsica) 


Bastia 


Vaucluse 


|Avignon 


1 Corse 


|Ajaccio 



The Etat d^Avignon, Savoi/., and Nice were not old French provinces, 
the first having been acquired in 1791 and the other two in 1860. 

Army. The whole of France is divided into twenty Military 
Regions (Regions de Corps d'Armee)^ each under a general of divi- 
sion, while Paris has a separate military government. 

Military service is compulsory on every Frenchman, not declared 
unfit, between the ages of 20 and 45. The Army is divided into an 
Active Army and a Territorial Army, each with its Reserve. On 
a peace-footing the former consists of 572,000 men and the latter 
of 800,000 men, forming a total of 1,372,000. On a war-footing 
these two armies combined rise to a total of 4,000,000. The total 
sum expended on the French army in 1906 amounted to 28,747,000^. 

Navy. For naval purposes France is divided into five Arrondisse- 
ments Maritimes, the seats of which are Cherbourg, Brest, Lorient, 
Rochefort, and Toulon. The fleet consists of about 500 war vessels in 
commission, including 48 ironclads, 66 cruisers, 236 torpedo-boats, 
and 20 transports. These are manned by about 43,000 men and 
2000 officers. In 1906 France expended on her navy 13,000,000^. 

.Justice, Each canton contains a Justice de Paix or Justice of 
the Peace; each arrondissement a. Tribunal of the First Instance; and 
each department a Cour d' Assises^ or criminal court. Above these 
are 26 Cours d'Appel, or courts of appeal, in the principal towns, and 
the Cour de Cassation^ or supreme court of appeal, at Paris. There 
are also Commercial, Military, and Naval Courts in places where 
5uch tribunals have been found desirable. 

Education. Education is compulsory on all children between 



XI. POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. ixxv 

six and thirteen years. In the budget of 1906 a sum of about 
10,000,000/. was set down for the Minister of Public Instruction, 
nearly two-thirds being allotted to elementary education. 

The Higher Education is entrusted to sixteen Universities, 
which until 189G were known as 'acade'mies universitaires'. Two 
of these universities (those of Paris and Bordeaux) have the five fac- 
ulties of theology, law, medicine, science, andlettersj three (Lyons, 
Nancy, Lille) have four faculties, eight have three, two have two, 
and two (Marseilles and Rouen) have one faculty only. There are 
also 'Facultes' of Protestant Theology at Paris and Montauban, and 
Roman Catholic Institutes at Paris, Angers, Lyons, and Lille. 

Secondary Education is imparted by about 110 Lycees and 228 
Colleges Communaux, including 38 lyce'es and 23 colleges for girls. 
In addition to these there still exist a large number of private 
colleges. 

There are altogether 80,946 Elementary Schools. 

The educational work of each department is presided over by an 
Jnspecteur d' Academic, and each arrondissement has an Inspecteur 
d' Instruction Prim.aire. 

In addition to the above-mentioned schools and colleges are 
numerous Technical and Special Institutions. 

Religion. All religions are equal bylaw. Until 1905 three sects, 
viz. Roman Catholics, Protestants, and Jews, received grants from 
government, but since the abrogation of the Concordat on Dec. 6th 
of that year all churches are independent of the state. The over- 
whelming majority of the inhabitants of France proper.^ or about 
38 millions out of 39 millions, are reckoned as Roman Catholics. The 
hierarchy of the Roman Catholic church embraces 17 Archbishops 
and 67 Bishops, whose sees are generally (not always) coextensive 
with the departments. The sees of the archbishops are at Aix, Albi, 
Auch, Avignon, Besan(;on, Bordeaux, Bourges, Cambrai, Chambe'ryJ 
Lyons, Paris, Rheims, Rennes, Rouen, Sens, Toulouse, and Tours. 
The regular clergy number about 55,000. 

The Protestants , who number about 600,000, are divided into 
Lutherans and Calvinists , both governed by Presbyterial Councils 
or Consistories, several of which together may form themselves into 
a Synod. The Lutherans possess in addition a General Synod, or 
supreme council. 

The number of Jews in France does not exceed 77,000. 

XII. Maps. 

The best maps of France are the Cartes de I'Etat-Major, or 
Ordnance Maps of the War Office. The chief of these, executed in 
1818-78 is issued in 273 sheets in black and white, on a scale of 
1:80.000. It has appeared also in quarter-sheets (1889). sol«1 
separately at 30 c. «acb. There is also an enlargement (1 : 50,000), 



xxxvi XII. MAPS. 

w'liich is roiisiderably clearer (50 c. per (piartor-Klioet), — A new 
map (1 : r)0,000; in colours) is being issued by the Service Geo- 
graphique, but only a few slieets (Paris and its environs, etc. ) have 
appeared, at 1 fr. 60 c. each. There is also a reduction of the first 
mentioned map, on a scale of 1 : 200,000, in five colours, each slii^t 
(11/2 f""-) ^^^"^ equivalent to four of the original map. An older 
map (1852-83) in 33 sheets (uncoloured), on a scale of 1 : 320,000, 
is not kept up to date except as regards the railways (2 fr. per shoet 
engraved, 50 c. zincographed). 

The Ministry of the interior has published a map of France, on 
a scale of 1 : 100,000,which may he obtained at the Librairie Hachette, 
Boulevard St. Germain 79, Paris. This, which is issued in 587 sheets 
in five colours is convenient for ordinary use, though not sufficiently 
accurate for mountain-excursions (price per sheet 80 c. or 1 fr. 55 c. 
on cloth). 

The excellent Carte Touriste de France (1 : 400,000), in 15 sheets 
in six colours, issued by Andriveau-Goujon (Henry Barrcre, Rue 
du Bac 21, Paris) in conjunction with the Touring-Club (p. xx), does 
not stop at the frontiers and gives indications as to road-surfaces, 
gradients, historical monuments, etc. (2^2 ^r- P^r sheet, 4 fr. on 
cloth). — The Carte Becherel (Theuveuy, Rue Taitbout 80, Paris) 
is a reproduction of the above-mentioned map on a scale of 1 : 200,000 
with some additional indications (2^2 fr- per sheet). — Other 
cycling-maps are the Carte Tarlde^ publisbed by A. Taride, Boulevard 
St. Denis 18 (1 : -250, 000; 90 c. per sheet, 21/2 fr. on cloth); and 
the Carte Guillot (1 : 250,000; 1 fr., 2V2 fr. on cloth), issued by 
Plon, Nourrit, et Cie., Rue Garancicre 8. — A special map of the 
Vosges and neighbourliood has been prepared by Commandant 
Fre'zard in six colours (1 : 320,000; II/2 fr-) a^id may be obtained 
from J. B. Schmitt et Fils, Belfort. 

A special map of France for motorists (1 : 900,000), published 
in four colours in five sections (price 4fr.), may be obtained from 
Tbeuveny (see above), who sells also similar maps on a larger scale 
(1 : 200,000) of the Environs of Paris and some other districts 
(1 fr. each). 

All these maps may be obtained in the chief tourist-resorts, but 
it is advisable to procure them in advance. The following shops in 
Paris have always a fall supply on hand: Barrere, Rue du Bac 4; 
Chapelot, Rue et Passage Dauphine 30; Plon, Nourrit, et Cie., Rue 
Garanciere 8. 

The catalogue of the Service Gdographique de rArmee (1 fr.) contains 
key -plans of its maps, including also those of Algeria, Tunis, and Africa 
generally (parts sold separately 10 c.-, Algeria and Tunis, 25 c.). Barrere's 
catalogue (gratis) has key-plans of the 1:80,000, 1:200,000. and 1:320,000 
maps; and key-plans of the 1:100,000 map may be obtained at Hachette's, 
Boulevard St. Germain 79. 




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NORTH ERN FR ANCE. 

I. NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE. 

1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris 3 

I. From Calais to Amiens 5 

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville 5 

Wissant, 6. — From Boulogne to Bonningues; to 

St. Omer; to Arras, 10. — Le Touquet. From Rang- 
du-Fliers-Verton to Berck, 11. — From Noyelles to St. 
Valery-sur-Somme; to Le Crotoy, 12. — From Abbeville] 
to B^thune, 13; to Dompierre-sur-Authie (Crdcy), 14. — 
From Longpr^ to Le Treport; to Canaples, 14. 

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras 15 

Aire-sur la-Lys. From Hazebrouck to Ypres, IT. — 
From Lens to Armentieres ; to Libercourt; to Frevent, 

18. — From Achiet to Marcolng via Bapaume, 21. 

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Frevent, and Doullens ... 22 
Agincourt, 22. — Naours, 23. 

II. From Amiens to Paris 23 

a. Via Creil 23 

Folleville. From St. Just to La-Rue-St-Pierre and toBeau- 
vais,23. — From Clermont to Beauvais; toCompiegne, 24. 

b. Via Beauvais 24 

2. Amiens 24 

From Amiens to Rouen; to Aumale, 31. 

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers) ... 31 
I. From Paris to Beauvais 31 

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont 31 

From Beaumont to Creil; to Pontoise; to Hermes, 32. 

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32 

From Beauvais to Gournay; to Gisors, 35. 

II. From Beauvais to Le Treport 35 

From Eu to Ault and Onival, 36. 

4. From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris) 37 

Malo-les-Bains. From Dunkirk to Furnes; to Calais, 
40. — From Bergues to Hondschoote, 41. 

5. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes . . 41 

From Douai to Orchies and Tournai: to Pont-a-Marcq. 
From Somain to Peruwelz via Anzin, 45. — From Valen- 
ciennes to Maubeuge; to Mons, 49. 

6. From Douai and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtrai . 50 
I. From Douai to Lille 50 

II. From Valenciennes to Lille 50 

From St. Amand to Blanc-Misseron ; to Tournai, 50. — 
From Orcbies to Tourcoing, 51. 

III. From Lille to Courtrai 51 

From Tourcoing to Menin, 52. 

7. Lille 52 

From Lille to Tournai; to K^tliune; to Ypres, GO. 

8. From Paris to Cambrai 61 

a Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Buslgny 61 



Baedeker's Northern trance. 5th Edit. 1 



NORTH-EASTKKN FRANCE. 



b. Via Creil, St. Just, and P^ronne 61 

From Cambrai to Douai; to Bavai (Dour); to Valen- 
ciennes, 63. 
9. From Amiens (Calais, Boulogne) to Chalons-sur-Marne 

(Bale) via Laon and Rheims 63 

10. From Calais to Nancy (Strassburg) via Lille, Valen- 

ciennes, Hirson, and Longuyon 65 

From Armentiferes to Berg;uette and to Comines, 66. — 
From Hirson to Revigny (Bar-le-Duc), 66. — From Le 
Tremblois to Rocroi, 67. 

11. From Paris to Namur (Brussels, Cologne) 67 

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeuge (Mons-Brussels) . . 67 

From Chantilly to Cr^py-en-V;ilois, 68. — From Com- 
piegne to Villers-Cotterets via Pierrefonds ; to Cr^py-en- 
Valoisj to Amiens, 70. — From Chauny to Laon via 
Coucy-le- Chateau, 71. — From St. Quentin to Guise; 
to Roisel; to Caudry - Cambresis. From Busigny to 
Hirson. From Le Cateau to Cambrai, 73. — From 
Maubeuge to Mons (Brussels); to Hirson, 74. 

b. Via Soissons, Laon, and Anor 75 

From Anizy to Pr^montre, 75. — From Laon to Md- 
zieres-Charleville via Liart; to Valenciennes, 77, 78. 

c. Via Soissons, Rheims, and M^zieres 78 

Monthermd and its Environs; Valley of the Semoy, 79. 

12. From Paris to Rheims 81 

a. Via Meaux and La Ferte-Milon 81 

b. Via Soissons 81 

c. Via Meaux and Epernay 84 

13. Rheims ^ . 84 

From Rheims to Chalons-sur-Marne via Ambonnay ; to 
Cormicy; to Fismes and Dormans, 89. 

14. From Paris to Metz 89 

a. Via Chalons and Frouard 89 

From Pompey to Nomeny, 89. — Mousson, 90. 

b. Via Chalons and Verdun 90 

From Conflans-Jarny to Audun-le-Roman, etc., 92. 

c. Via Rheims and Verdun 93 

d. Via Rheims and M^zi^res-Charleville 93 

From Bazaneourt to Apremont. Sorbon; Barby, 93. — 
From Sedan to Bouillon; to Lerouville (Nancy), 97. — 
Avioth. From Montm^dy to Virton. From Longuyon 
to Luxembourg; to Nancy, 98. 

15. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) 99 

I. From Paris to Chalons-sur-Marne 100 

From Bondy to Anlnay-les-Bondy. From Lagny to 
Mortcerf, 100. — Jouarre, 101. — From Chateau-Thierry 
to Romilly, 102. — From Epernay to Fere-Cham- 
penoise (Romilly) ; to Montmirai), 103. — L'Epine, 105. 

IL From Chalons-sur-Marne to Nancy 105 

From Vitry-le-Francois to Jessains. From Revigny 
to Haironville; to Triaucourt, etc., 106. — From Bar- 
le-Duc to Clermont-en-Argonne and Verdun, 108. 

16. Nancy 110 

From Nancy to Chateau-Salins (Vie; Saargemiind), 116. 



3 



1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris. 



183 M. to 212 M. Railway in SV^ll hra., according to the route aelected. 
The shortest route is via Boulogne, Abbeville, and Creil (fares 33 fr. 40, 
22 fr. 55, 14 fr. 70 c); the longest, seldom taken, via Hazebrouck and Arras 
(fares 35 fr. 50 c., 24 fr., 15 fr. 66 c.). The alternative routes given below 
may be combined to suit individual convenience. — From London to Calais, 
see p. xiii. 

Calais. — Stations. Calais- Maritime (PI. C, 2), for the English traffic ; 
Galais-Ville, or Oare Centrale (PI. B, 5), for all trains except those of the 
Anvin line; Oare des Fontinettes (PI. B, 7) and Calais- St- Pierre (PI. A, 6), for 
the Anvin line. 

Hotels. Centkal, in the Gare Centrale, R. from 3, D. 3 fr., good 5 Ter- 
minus, in the Gare Maritime. — Gkand-Hotel (PI. a; B, 4), Place Richelieu, 
R. from 3, B. li/i, d^j. or D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1/2 fr., good: Medkice 
(PI. b; B, C, 3), Rue de Guise 7, R. from 3, B. I'A, dej. or D. 3, pens, 
from 10, omn. 1/2 fr. ; dd Sadvage (PI. c; B, 3, 4), Rue Royale 39, 
R. from 3, B. 1, dej. or D. 31/2, pens, from 91/2, omn. 1 fr., good; du 
Commerce (PI. d; B, 4), Rue Royale 51; Victoria (PI. e; C, 3), Rue des 
Thermes 34. 

Restaurants at the hotels (see above) and at the Casino {^.b\ d^j. 31/2, 
D. 33/4 fr.). — Cafes. Bellevue, dn Globe, Place d'Armes; Grand-Caf4, at 
St. Pierre, corner of the Boulevards Pasteur and Lafayette. 

Post & Telegraph Offices, Place Richelieu (Calais; PI. B, 4) and Boule- 
vard Pasteur 2 (St. Pierre; PI. C, 6). 

Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 90 c., 3 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c.; 
per hour, H/a, 2, or 2V2 fr. ; double fare after 11 p.m. 

Tramways. 1. From the Place d'Armes (PI. B, C, 3) to the Pont St. Pierre 
(PI. E, 6). 2. From the Boulevard Jacquart (PI. C, 5, 6) to the former Gare 
de St. Pierre (PI. A, 6). 3. From the Boul. Jacquart to the Gare des Fonti- 
nettes (PI. B, 7). 4. From the Pont St. Pierre (PI. E, 6) to the Ealte St. Pierre 
(comp. PI. F, 8). A small omnibus runs in the season from tht Place 
d'Armes (PI. B, C, 8) to the Casino (sea-balhs; PI. A, 2); fares 10-15 c. — 
tramway also runs from Calais to Guines (p. 22), via Pont-du-Leu, Coulogne 
TEcluse-Carree, and Banc -Valois (fares 15-60 c). — Motors for Wissant 
see p. 6. 

Steamboat to Dover (for London, p. xiii), thrice daily; fares 13 fr. 65 
11 fr. 15 c. ' 

Banks. Adam tt Co.^ Rue Royale 8; Banque de France., Rue Leveux 28; 
Cridii LyonnaiSy Boulevard Jacquart 37; Soci&t4 Oin^rale, Boulevard Gam- 
betta 8. 

British Consul, C. A. Payton, Rue St. Denis 15; Vice-Consul, E. H. 
Blomefield (also Lloyd's agent). — American Consul, Jas. B. Milner, Rue de 
Moscou 14; Vice-Consul, H. C. Sail. 

English Church (Eoly Trinity ; PI. D, 6), Rue du Moulin-Brule ; chaplain, 
Rev. M. H. Umbers, B. A. — Wesleyan Chapel, Rue du Temple. Services 
at both at 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. 

Calais, a town with 66,627 inhab., including St. Pierre-les- 
Calais (p. 5), and a fortress of the first class, derives its chief im- 
portance from its harbour and its traffic with England, to which it 
is the nearest port on the French coast. The chalk cliffs and castle 
of Dover, 21 M. distant, are visible in clear weather. About 300,000 
travellers pass through the town annually; and in addition there is 
a brisk trade in timber, coal, etc. Calais contains 1500 English 
residents, chiefly engaged in its tuile-manufactories (p. 5). 

Ciilais played a prominent part in the early wars between Prance and 
hngland. Its harbour was the rendezvous for the fleet of the Dauphin Louis, 

1* 



4 lioute 1. CALAIS. FTom Calais 

whuse aid had Ixcii invited by the discimtcnted Englisli b;irons aE;;ainst 
King John. In i;U()-47. .ifter the battle of Crdcy, Edward III. starved it 
into surrender after a desperate resistance of eleven months. He consented 
to spare the town on condition that six nol)]e citizens slmnld place them- 
selves, clad in their shirts ami with halters about their necks, at his ab- 
solute disposal; and it was only by the urgent intercession of his queen, 
Philippa of Hainanlt, that he was induced to spare the lives of the un- 
fortnnate men, at whose head was the patriotic Eust:iche de St. Pierre. 
C:ilais remained in the hands of the English until 1558, when the Duke 
of Guise with 30.000 men succeeded in expelling the small English gar- 
rison (500 men) after a siege of seven days. In 15n0 Mary Stuart set sail 
from Calais to assume the Scottish crown ^ and in 1814 Louis XVIII. landed 
here on his return to his kingdom. The Spaniards made themselves masters 
of Calais in 1596, but the treaty of Vervins in 1598 restored it permanently 
to France. 

The Harbour, which is accessible at all states of the tide, has 
been more than doubled in size by extensive new works, recently 
completed at a cost of 2,400, 000^ The Old Har&owr, with the former 
railway-station, lies nearest to the Place d'Armes; the imposing 
*New Harbour farther to the E. Between the two stand the Monu- 
ment des Saiiveteurs fPl. 3; B, 3), by Lormier, and, a little farther 
on, a Column (PL 1; C, 3) rommemoratinp: the return of Louis XVIII. 
in 1814. The Oare Maritime fPl. C, 2"), or Pier Station, where 
passengers from England find the trains for Paris, Brussels, etc. 
waiting, is situated on the N.E. side of the Avant-Port (Pl.B, C. 2), 
and is connected with the Oare Centrale (see p. 5) by a short 
branch-line skirting the new harbour. 

The old Hotel de Ville (PL B, C, 3), in the Place d'Armes, the 
centre of the old town, was erected in 1740 on the site of a former 
building of which the tower still remains flSth cent.). Tn front it 
is adorned with small bronze busts (1636) of Richelieu, the founder 
of the citadel and the arsenal, and the Due de Guise, 'liberateur de 
Calais en 1558'. On the balcony is a bust of Eustache de St. Pierre 
(see above). The Hotel de Ville contains a small Musee, open 10 
to 4 or 5 on Mon., Thurs., Sat., Sun., and holidays (on other days 
entr. from the street behind the tower). 

Ground Floor. Sculptures and antiquities; natural history collec- 
tions. — 1st Floor. Natural history collections, weapons, ethnographical 
collection, small works of art, fayence, and various other objects. 

2ni> Floor. Paintings. From right to left: 134. CUfflart, Romeo and 
.Tuliet; 133. Amaury-Duval, Portrait of a child (study); 131. JJ. RegnauU, 
Orpheus in Hades; 129. Tottegram. Women begging for alms at Berck-sur- 
Mer; 42. Brueahel the Elder. Masquerade; 30. iZ/p'aMd, Portrait of Louis XV. ; 
40. ^07^/7^or5/, Shepherd; 39. Rubens. Judgment of Paris: 27. Albano. Bacchus 
demanding immortality for Ariadne; 109-112. Van der Pwil. Portraits; 19. 
LeBourgnignon, Battle; 10. Ribera, Anatomical lesson ; 8. N. Poussin, Triumph 
of Bacchus; 63. VandeVelde, Landscape: 62. Ph. Wouverman, Battle (1620). 
— Porcelain, lace, plans and views of Cal;iis. 

To the left is a massive square Watch Tower, the foundation 
of which is referred to 810, and which was used ns a lighthouse 
until 1848. 

The church oflNotre-Dame (PL C, 4), approached by the street 
of the same name leading to the E. from the Place d'Armes, was 



to Amiens. CALAIS. ;. Route 5 

almost completely rebiult during the English occupation of the 
town, and it has undergone considerable renovation since 1866 
IhebuUdingon the left is a reservoir; the spire is unpleasing.' 
Ihe high-altar, with a fine reredos in Italian marble (1624-28) 
decorated with statues, high reliefs, and an Assumption hy 8 eghers 
tiie iron choir-screen, and a Descent from the Cross by Rubens C^) 
in the left transept, are the chief objects of interest in the interior 

„. , , ^f.V^ ""^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^'^' ^^i«^ begins to the left of the 
Hotel de Ville, is the Hotel de Guise (PI. B, C, 4), in the English 
ludor style, originally founded by Edward III. as a guildhouse for 
the woolstaplers , and presented to the Duke of Guise after his 
capture of the town. The Place Richelieu leads hence towards the 
Uare Centrale, passing the Jardin Richelieu (PI C 4) in which a 
'^Monument to Eustache de St. Pierre and his Companions (PI 2- 
p. 4} by Rodin, was erected in 1895. On the opposite side of the 

(ca. 25 000 vols, and 97 MSS.) on the first floor (open daily, except 
feun., 10-1 and 4-9; closed in Sept.). ^ 

The Sea-Bathing Establishment (V\. A, 2; 1 fr ladies 1 fr in n ^ ..^a *\.^ 
Casino are situated Ueyond the old iarbo^l^, 'on a Ane tach (omn ''ielTp 't) 

The QareCentrale{V\.^, 5), or principal railway-sta'tion, lies 
between Calais proper and St. Pierre, and has approaches from 
both Near it, on the St. Pierre side, is a pretty Park (PI B C 5) 

St. Pierek-les-Calais, the industrial and commercial 'part of 
Calais, has extensive manufactures of tulle and lace, an industry 
which was introduced from Nottingham in 1818. The Church of 
St Pierre (Pl.D, 7), built in 1862-70 in the style of the 13th cent 
and the Hotel de Ville (1858-64) are both si'tuatedfn the Place 

rSrrndi t.''p;'''*/f,i'' ^'^^^ ^'^°*^^^^ ^^ ^ ^«^ Monument 
(1904), ai din thePlace del'Egalite stands the new TheatrefFl C 6) 

fh. Ir"^ iw ^ ^^' S*^Pt- Omnibuses run thrice daily (in 1 hr 75 c 1 frn^ 

he Place d'Armes to (6 M.) Sangatte- Plage (Hot de U Plai- des if^nf 

Ouersen; Segau), a small bathing-place 4 M from Can fen', ^f ? «0 

served alsu by the motor-cars to In^d froix wissanT(^ ^6) ^^^ ^^' 

to JiSs'::^::^^^^^: tii &. fr '^ ^^'^^^ ^"^-^-^^' -^ ^- ^o. 

I. From Calais to Amiens, 
a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville. 

.rom^Boulogne to Amil^ns, 76V. M., inX-AV'^:ref\! t,f ^;]- 3^ 
After leaving Calais we pass (1 1/4 M.) Les Fontinettes and (1 1/2 M. ) 

(D S^r' ^iT'l'^'^' ^'^'"^ ""^'"'^ "^'^''Ses the line to Anvin 
rnrt/' ""■ ^? Prethun. - As the train approaches (10 M.) 
Caffiers we enjoy a fine view to the left. - 151/2 M. MarguZe- 

toTe^N . T^'' ^^'■""' ''''^'^ ' '^''' '^^^ (3560 inhab ) 1 ?A M. 
to theN.E, has important iron foundries and marble-quarries, the 



6 Route 1. BOULOGNF.-SUR-MER. From Cnlah 

latter situated in tlie 'Valine Hcureuse', a favourite point for ex- 
cursions from Boulogne. 

About 7 M. to the N. of the station (in summer omii. lour times daily, 
motorcar twice) lies Wissant (Or.-JISt. de In Diffue, II. 2-7, I!. 1, dcj. 3, 
D. 3, pens. 8-12 I'r.; Hdt. des Bains; de la Plage), a sea-hathing place, 
between Cap (Jiis-Nez (see below) and Cap Jilanc-Nez (440 It.). I" the 
season motor-cars ply hence tn Ambleteuse (1^/4 tV. ) and Wimereux and 1o 
Calais (2 I'r. ^ 60 min.) via (V4 hr.) Sangatte (p. 5). 

2172 M. WimilU- Wimereux. Wimille, 2/3 M. to the riglit, lias 
a church dating from the 12-13th centuries. 

Wimereux. Hotels. "Splendid Hotel, 150 11., dej. 4, D, 5 fr., "Grand 
Hotel, both on the beach; ' Orand- H6tel Mauricien, d^j. 4, I). 6 fr. — 
H6tel de la Plage; des Bains, R. fr!»m 5, pens. 6V2 9 fr. ; Bellevue; Beauri- 
vage; de I Union, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; Mulier, pens, from 7 fr. ; 
Moderne; de la Paix ; etc. — Pension Villa Edouard, Rue Carnot, 12 fr. — 
Post & Telegraph Office, Rue Carnot. 

Wimereux, at the mouth of the river of the same name, is a bathing- 
place of comparatively recent date, with a good beach (bathing-box and 
costume l'/2fr. ), a Grand Casino, and a race-course and golfcour.se (272 fr. 
per day) 1 M. to the N. (at Anbengues, Gr.-H6t. Cosmopolite). Tramway 
to Boulogne, see p. 7. A motor-omnibus plies 5 times daily in summer 
to Ambleteuse and (50 min.; 2 fr.) Wissant (see above) and a 'Train Re- 
nard' 5 times daily to (25 min.) Ambleteuse ( Grand- H6tel; H6t. Delpierre), 
another little bathing-place 3^/4 M. to the K,, with a good beach. James II. 
landed here in 1689 on his flight from England. Cap Qris-Nez (165 ft.; 
Hot. de la Sirene), on which rises an electric lighthouse, 5 M. beyond 
Ambleteuse, is the nearest point of France to England (I6V2 M.). 

23 M. Terltncthun, ^j^ M. from the Colonne de la Grande Armee, 
marking the situation of Napoleon's camp (p. 10). Beyond a tun- 
nel, 1/2 M. long, we enter the station of — 

25 M. Boulogne-Tintelleries (see below), where passengers to 
Boulogne by through - trains to and from Amiens- alight. Other 
trains pass through another tunnel, cross the Liane by means of a 
curved viaduct, and enter the Grande Oare of — 

25V2 M. Boulogne-SUr-Mer. — Stations. Boulogne- Central or Grande 
Gare (PI. D, E, 4), on the left bank of the Liane, near the Arriere Port; 
Boulogne- Maritime (PI. D, 2; buffet), a little to the N., for the English traffic; 
Boulogne-Tintelleries (PI. F, 2), for the express trains between Calais and 
Paris. 

Hotels (comparatively expensive). Xear the baths: Hotel du Pavillon 
iMPfiRiAX ET DES Bains DE Mer (PL a; D, 1), Boul. Ste. Beuve 9S, 250 R. ; 
Brighton et Marine (Pl. b; D, 2), Boul. Ste. Beuve, B. from 6, B. IV2, 
dej. 4, D. 6, pens, from 121/2 fr. ; de Folkestone (PI. c; D, 2), Quai Gam- 
betta74; Black's Globe Hotel, Quai Gambetta 70, dej. 3, D. 4, pens, from 
10 fr.; Hot. de Paris (PI. d; D, 2), Quai Gambetta 64, R. from 5, B. 11/2, 
dej. 3V2, I>. 5, pens, from 12 fr. ; Hot. do Nord, d'Europe, et Continental 
(PI. f; D, 2), Rue de Boston 58, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Berry 
(PI. e; D, 2), Rue de Boston 96. — In the town: Hot. Christol et 
Bristol (PI. g; E, 3), Place Frederic-vSauvage 14, near the station; Mkdrice 
(PI. i; E, 3), Rue Victor-Hugo 35, R. from 4, B. IV4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, 
from 12 fr.; Deevaux (PI. m; F, 3), Grande-Rue 75, opposite the Museum; 
DO Louvre (PI. n; D, 3), Place de la Republique, near the station, R. from 4, 
dej. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 10 fr., good; dc Commerce (PI. o ; E, 3), Rue Thiers 
27; MfiTROPOLE-HoTEL (PI. 1; E, 3), Rue Faidherbe 27; Hot. Castiglione 
(PI. q; D, 3). opposite the station, R. from 2V2, B. 1, dej. 21//, D. 3, 
pens, from 8 fr. ; de France (PI. p; F, 3, 4), Rue Rationale 30, pens. 7V2 fr. 
(incl. beer); Hot. de Flandre (PI. k; E, 2), Quai Gambetta 52, R. from 



A I B 

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to Amiens. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 7. Route. 1 

S'/a, B. 1, d^j.2V8, D. 31/3, pens. fromlOVafr. — In the upper town: Hot. 
DE BouEGOGNE (PI. h; G, 2, 3), Ruc de Lille 11, R. from 3, B. 1-1 V4, dej. 2, 
D. 3, pens, from 5 fr. — There are also numerous Pentiont. 

Restaurants at most of the hotels; also at the Casino (d^j. 4, D. 5 fr.j 
and at the Gare Maritime. 

Cafes. Qr.-Caf4 de Boulogne., Ruc Adolphe-Thiers 37; du Phinix., Rue 
Victor-Hugo 59; du Nord, corner of Grande-Rue and Rue Victor-Hugo. 

Cabs. From 6 a.m. to midnight, per drive I'/z fr., per hour 2 fr., with 
2 hordes 272 fr. (otherwise same fares as with 1 horse); from midnight to 
6 a.m. 2 fr. and 2^/2 fr. ; outside the town, per hour 2V2 fr., if discharged 
outside 25 c. per kilometre (2/3 M.) for the returu. 

Electric Tramways. From the Place Dalton (PL F, 3): 1. To the 
Casino (PI. D, 1); 3. To Chdtillon and Le Portel (comp. PI. C, 5), a fishing- 
village and bathing-resort 2 M. to the S.W.; 4. To Mont-Neuf-d'Outreuu 
(comp. PI. E, 5); 5. To the Dernier-Sou (PI. G, 2); 6. A-hmg the coast (fine 
view) to Wimereux (comp. PI. C, D, 1); 7. To St. Martin (comp. PI. G, 2), 
via the Deruier-Sou. 2. From the Casino (Pi. D, 1) to Brequerecque (comp. 
PI. G, 5). Fares 10 30 c. — Narrow-gauge line to Bonningues, see p. 10. 

Steamers. To Folkestone (for London), London direc , and Goole, see 
pp. xiii, xiv. To New York, steamer.:; of the Hamburg-America Line and Hol- 
land-America Line each once a week. — Excursion steamers on Sun. and 
holidays in summer (daily at the height of the season), 1 fr. for trip of 1 hr. 

Bathing Establishment on the beach on the right bank of the Liane 
(p. 8). Sea-bath, incl. machine, 1 fr. •, bath in the swimming-bath 50 c.; 
subscription for 12 baths 9 fr. or 51/2 fr.; ladies' bathing costume 25c., 
drawers 15 c., 'peignoir' 10 or 25 c., towel 5 or 10 c. — Hot Baths, 1 fr. 

Casino (season 15th June-i5th Oct.). Adm. 1 fr., day ticket 2fr.; per 
week 10, fortnight 17, month 29 fr.; double tickets 19, 32, or 54 fr., etc. 
Adm. to Theatre 4 or 5 fr. Subscription to both 22, 39, or 67 fr. ; double 
ticket 39, 67, 111 fr. ; etc. See the gratuitous 'Guide Programme'. 

Golf Links (21/2 fr. per day) at Aubengues (p. 6). 

Post & Telegraph Office (PL E, 3), Rue du Pot-d'Etain 24. 

British Vice -Consul, H. F. Farmer, Rue Correnson 2. — American 
Consular Agent, Wm. Whitman, Quai Gambetta 6. — Bankers. Banque de 
France, Rue Victor-Hugo 46; Soci4t4 G4n4rale, Rue Victor-Hugo 32; Ada7n 
d- Co., Rue Victor-Hugo 6 (also LI lyd's agents). — Merridew^s Library, Rue 
Viotor-Hugo 60. 

Physicians. Dr. Carr, Boulevard Ste-Beuve; Dr. Philip, Grande-Rue 95. 
— Dentists. Mr. Hillman, Rue Adolphe-Thiers 29; Mr. Manton, Grande 
Rue 14; Mr. McConaghy, Rue Victor- Hugo 44; Mr. Roper, Rue Adolphe 
Thiers 14. 

English Churches. Holy Trinity (PI. 1, E, 4; services at 11 & 7.30), 
Rue de la Lampe; Rev. W. M. Reid. — St. John's (PL 2, F, 3; services 
at 11 <fe 5.30), Rue des Vieillards 2S; Rev. J. R. Button Tompson. — 
Wesleyan Methodist Church (PL 3; F, 3), Grande-Rue 68; Rev. J. Gaskin ; 
services at 11 and 7. 

Boulogne-sur-Mer , the Bononia (?) or Gessoriacum of the Ro- 
mans, is an important seaport and commercial town, situated on the 
Liane, with a population of 51,201, of whom over 1000 are English 
residents. Its numerous schools enjoy a high reputation. Boulogne 
is an important herring-port and exports large quantities of salted 
fish; and it is the chief centre in France for the manufacture ol 
steel pens, introduced from England in 1846. The town is divided 
into the Haute Ville, or old town on the height to the E., and 
the much larger Basse Ville, including the harhour. The part of the 
Basse Ville on the left or W. bank of the Liane, in which is the 
principal railway-station (p. 8), is known as Capecure. 



8 Route J. BOULOGNE-SIJR-MER. From Calais 

The Harbour, especially the E. part near tlie Douane (PI. D, '2), 
presents a very busy scene. Boulogne stands next to Marseilles, Le 
Havre, and Bordeaux among the seaports of France. Its harbour, at 
one time tidal only, has been greatly enlarged by extensive opera- 
tions originally begun in 1879 and resumed in 1901. The port has 
been deepened to enable vessels to arrive and start at lovv^ water 
and a large deep-water harbour and a new naval basin are under 
construction. The Bassin d. flot, a large basin on the left bank of 
the Liane, was constructed by Napoleon to accommodate the flotilla 
which was to convey his troops to England (see p. lOj. The Building 
Slips are situated on the W. bank. The West Pier stretches into the 
sea for a distance of 765 yds. 

The Gare Maritime (PI. D, 2), on the quay of the Folkestone 
steamers (p. 6), is connected with the Central Railway Station 
(PL D, E, 4) by a short branch-line. On the right bank of the 
Liane, immediately beyond the Pont Maryuet (PL E, 3), is a bronze 
statue (PL E, 3), by Lafrance, of Frederic Sauvage (1786-1857 J, 
who was among the first to use screw propellers for steamboats. — 
Thence the Quai Gambetta leads to the N. to the Halle au Poisson 
(PL E, 3), in the small square adjoining which is a statue of 
Edward Jenner (1749-1823), the discoverer of vaccination, by 
Eug. Paul (1858). 

The Fish Market is held early in the morning in the Halle (PI. E, o). 
The fishermen and their families occupy a separate quarter ('la Beurriere') 
on the W. side of the town, and form one-tenth of the population. They 
partly adhere to the picturesque costume of their ancestors, and they differ 
somewhat in character and customs from the other inhabitants of the town. 

Farther along the busy quay is the Douane (PL D, 2), or custom 
house, near which are bonded warehouses and the chamber of 
commerce. 

The *Etablissement des Bains ^ with its Garden and handsome 
Casino (PL D, 1, 2), occupies the rest of the space between the 
Quai Gambetta and the cliffs (adm., see p. 7). The beach is sandy 
and very extensive. The Etablissement contains a swimming-bath 
for use when the sea is too rough for bathing. — The foot of the 
cliffs, beyond the casino, is skirted by the Boulevard Ste. Btuve, 
named in honour of the eminent critic (1804-69), who was born 
at Boulogne. 

The East Pier, or Jetee de I' Est (Pl.B, C, 1,2; small restaurant), 
which extends 567 yds. into the sea, is a favourite promenade, 
especially at full tide, when the steamers enter or leave the port. 
In clear weather the South Foreland lights are visible; the revolving 
white and red light to the N. at Cap Gris-Nez is very distinct. — 
On the cliff are the ruins of a brick fort constructed by the English 
in 1545 near the Tour d'Odre ('Turris ardens'; PL D, 1), a Roman 
beacon-tower, built under Caligula in A.D. 40 and pulled down in 
1644. — The church oiSt. Pierre-des-Marins (PL E, 2} 1852), with 
a lofty spire, is in the Gothic style of the 14th century. 



to Amiens. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 1. Route. 9 

We now retrace our steps to visit the town. Tlie Rue Victor- 
Huyo (PI. E, 3) and its continuation, the Rue Nationale, contain the 
principai shops. The RueAdoLphe- Thiers (PI . E, 3J, parallel to the Rue 
Victor-Hugo, is the principal artery of trafiic in the town ; at its S. 
extremity is the Place Dalton (PL F, 3), in which rises the church 
of St. Nicholas (13-18th cent.). Tliis square is the chief tramway- 
centre. The Grande-Rue ascends from this point to the Haute Ville. 

The Museum (PI. F,3), in the Grande-Kue, contains ethnograph- 
ical, historical, and natural history collections, some Egyptian an- 
tiquities, and a few pictures, mostly of the modern French school 
(open in summer daily, except Tues., 11-4; in winter on Sun., 
Wed., Thurs., and Sat.). The Public Library, on the second floor, 
contains 64,500 vols, and 239 MSS. (open daily 9.30-12.30 & 2-4, 
5, or 6, except during Easter-week and from Sept. 15th to 30th; 
on Sun. and holidays closed in the afternoon). 

At the top of the Grande-Rue, on the left, is the Sous-Prefecture 
(PI. F, 3J, the pretty Square in front of which is adorned with a 
bust of Henri 11, by David d" Angers, commemorating the restoration 
of the town to France by the English in the reign of that monarch 
(1550). In the Boulevard Auyuste-Mariette, farther on, is a bronze 
statue of Aug. Mariette (PI. G, 2), the eminent Egyptologist, who was 
a native of Boulogne (lS21-yiJ, by Jacquemart. To the left, lower 
down, is a public park known as Les Tintelleries (PL F, 2), where 
concerts are given in summer. A monument in this park, by Thomas, 
commemorates the llrst successful balloon-voyage from France to 
England, achieved in 1883 by Fr. Lhoste. Close by is the Boulogne- 
Tinteileries Station (p. 6) on the line to Calais. 

The Hadte Ville (PI. F, G, 2, 3), forming approximately a square 
(435 yds. by 355 yds.), is enclosed by massive walls and bastions, 
40-55 ft. high, dating from 1231. It has four gateways, flanked by 
massive round towers, th^ Porte des Dunes, the Porte Gayole, the 
Porte de Calais, and the Porte des Degresijoi foot-passengers only).— 
We enter by the Porte des Dunes, within which, to the left, are 
situated the modern Palais de Justice (PL F, 3) and (a little farther 
on) the Hotel de Ville (PL G, 3), erected in 1734 and said to oc- 
cupy the site of an ancient castle, where the crusader Godfrey de 
Bouillon was born in 1065. 

In the Rue de Lille, which leads from the Hotel de Ville to the 
Porte de Calais, is the Cathedral of Notre-Dame (PL G, 2), a building 
in the degraded Italian style, erected in 1827-66. The lantern sur- 
mounting the dome is crowned with a colossal statue of the Virgin 
(line view; ascent, 1 fr. ; custodian at the S. portal). 

Ihe interior contains an elaborate high -altar, executed in Rome at 
r^®^Q^?^^°^® '^^ the Torlonia family; a line monument to Mgr. Haffreingue 
la. Ittri), who built the church; and a Lady Chapel, which is resorted to 
l>y pilgrims during the last fortnight of August. — The Crypt (adm. 1 fr.), 
rtating partly from the 7th cent., cuntaius antiquities found in dib-ging the 
foundations of the church. && & 



10 Route 1. M0NTRKUIL-SUU-MP:R. From Calais 

The Chdteau (1*1. G, 2), in wbicli Louis Napulooii was couflucd 
after the attempted insurrection of 1840, is the ancient citadel of 
Houlogue, and dates from 1231. It is now converted into barracks 
and an artillery depot (no admission). — The old Cemetery in the 
Koute de St. Martin (beyond PI, G, 2) contains the graves of Sir 
Harris Nicolas, Basil Montague, and numerous other Englishmen. 

In 1804 Napoleon I. assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 
cavalry on the table land to the N. of P>oalogne, under tlie command of 
Marshals Soult, Key, D.ivoust, and Victor, and collected in the harbour 
a flotilla of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for tlie purpose of invading 
England and establishing a republic there. The troops were admirably 
drilled, and only avs^aited the arrival of the fleets from Antwerp, Brest, 
Cadiz, and the harbours of the Mediterranean, which bad been in the 
course of formation for several years for this express purpose. Their 
union was prevented by the English lleet under Sir Robert Calder; and 
the victory of Nelson at Trafalgar, on 22nd Oct., 1805, completed the 
discomfiture of the undertaking. 

Napoleon\s Column, or the Colonne de la Grande- Armie, a Doric column, 
176ft. in height, situated I1/2 M. from Boulogne on the road to Calais (comp. 
PI. G, 1,2), was founded in 1804 to commemorate the expedition against 
England, the first stone being laid by Marshal Soult in the presence of 
the whole army. The first empire left the monument unfinished, and in 
1821 Louis XVIII. caused the work to be resumed, intending that the 
column should commemorate the restoration of the Bourbons; but it was 
not completed till 1841, when its original destination was revived. The 
summit (view) is occupied by a stitue of the emperor, one of I>osio''s 
finest works. — Farther to the N.W. are the Fort de Terlincihun and the 
Chdteau d'Eonvault, occupied by Henry VIII. in 1544. 

From Bodlogne to Bonningues (p. 22), 271/2 M., naTow-gauge railway 
in 23/4 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 30 c.) via Ostrohove, (iy-z M.) St. Martin, 
(13 M.) Le Waast, (IdVs M.) Colembert, and (23V2 M.) Licques. 

From Boulogne to St. Omer, 4OV2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (.fares 6 fr. 85, 
4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 20 c). — This line diverges to the left from that to Paris 
at (0^2 M.) Hesdigneul (p. 11) , and ascends the pretty valley of the 
Liane. — 10 M. jSamer, with 2158 inhab. ; 15 M. Desrres, an industrial town 
with 4939 inhab., at the foot of the Mont Hulin (695 ft.) The railway 
skirts a range of picturesque hills. — 19V2 M. Lottinghem carries on the 
active preparation of phosphates, exported to England and Brittany for 
manure. — 28V2 M. Lumbves, the junction of the Hne from Calais to Anvin 
(p. 22); 371/2 M. Argues (4478 inhab.-. Hot. de la Grande-Ste-Catherine), 
on the direct line from St. Omer to Berguette (p. 17). We then pass under 
the canal from Aire to St. Omer beside the hydraulic lift (p. 17; to the 
left), and join the line from Calais via Arras. — 4OV2M. St. Omer, see p. 15. 

From Boulogne to Arras, 791/2 M., railway in 3^/i-S^/i hrs. (fares 14 fr. 
45, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 30 c). — This line diverges from the railway to Amiens 
at (17 M.) Etaples (p. 11) and ascends the valley of the Canche. 

231/2 M. Montreuil-sur-Mer (E6t. de France; Bellevue, pens. 6V2 fr. 5 
du Renard-dWr; du Cornet-dOr), an ancient little town with 3535 inhab., 
is situated on a hill now 91/2 M. from the sea, though, a« the name indicates, 
it was formerly on the coast. Montreuil was at one time fortified, and its 
lofty walls and citadel still remain. The Church was p irtly destroyed in 
1537 and was rebuilt at the end of the 16th century ; the Hospital, rebuilt 
in 1857, has a fine chapel in the style of the 15th century. — About II/2 M. 
from the town, at the village of Neuville-sous-Montreuil, is the Chartreuse 
de Neuville or de Notre - Dame- des-Pr is, the extensive build ngs of which 
resemble tho83 of the Grande Chartreuse near Grenoble. The convent, 
founded here in the 14th cent., was partly destroyed and sold at the Revo- 
lution, but was repurchased by the Carthusians and almost completely 
rebuilt in 1872-75 in the Gothic style. Again sold in 1907 as a result of the 
Associations Law of 1901 it i; now a private sanatorium (visitor^ admitlcd). — 



to Amiens. BERCK. /. Route. H 

From Montreuil-sur-Mer a line runs to (10 M.) Ranff-du-Fliers-Verton (see 
below), and another to (46 M.) Aire-tur-la-Lyt (p, 17) via (25 M.) Fruget (p. 22) 
and (39 M.) T/i4rouanne, a large village to tlie S. of the site of the important 
mediaeval town of that name (the Taruenna of antiquity), which was fort- 
ified by Francis I. but destroyed by Charles V. in 1553 in revenge for the 
loss of the 'three bishoprics' (Metz, Verdun, and Toul) in 1552. 

At (30 M.) BeaurainviUe is a tower of the chateau in which Guy of 
Pouthieu imprisoned Harold of England in 1064. — 371/2 M. Hesdin (H6t. 
de France), a small town founded by Charles V. in 1554, after the destruc- 
tion of Vieil Hesdin., 2V2-3 M. farther np the valley. From Hesdin roads 
lead to (12 M.) Cr(^cy (p. 14) and to Agincourt (p. 22). — 441/2 M. Blangy- 
sur-Ternoise, '6^/2 M. to the S.E. of Agincourt (p. 22). — 49 M. Anvin (p. 22). 
52 M. Wavrans. 551/2 M. St. Pol (p. 22). — The train ascends the valley of 
the Scarpe. — 71 M. Mont- Saint- El ox., a village on a height to the right, 
with a church with two tall towers (18th cent.) and other relics of an 
ancient abbey. The railway then turns to the left, and joins the line from 
Paris to Arras. — 791/2 M. Arras^ see p. 18. 

Quitting Boulogne the train traverses the valley of the Liane. 
At (263/4 M.) Outreau (5981 inhab.) the line from the Gare Oentrale 
joins that from Boulogne-Tintelleries (p. 6). To the left are the 
town of Boulogne and the bridge over the Liane on the line to Calais. 
Several large cement-works are passed, 28Y2 M. Pont-de-Briques 
(Hot. Lambeau). — 31 M. Hesdigneul (Hot. de la Gare; junction 
for St. Omer, see p. 10). 

About 6 M. to the S.W. of the station is the new bathing -resort 
Hardelot-Plage (H6t. Bellevue), wi(h a golf-course, near the chateau and 
forest of the same name. During the season motors run from Boulogne 
(p. 6), Pont de-Briques (see above), and Paris-Plage (see below). 

42 M. Etaples (Buffet, dej. 21/2 fr. 5 Hot. des Voyageurs, Hoi de 
la Gare, opposite the station 5 Hot. Joos, in the square) is the junction 
for Arras (see p. 10). From Etaples an electric tramway (25 min. ; 
50-60 c.) plies to (31/2 M.) Paris-Plage. 

Paris-Plaga or Le Touquet. — Hotels. 'Atlantic Hotel, on the beach, 
closed in winter, 100 R. from 6, dej. 4, D. 6, pens, from 16, omn. 2 fr., 
"Hermitage Hotel, in the forest, 6U R., similar charges, two first-class 
houses belonging to the same proprietor; Orand-Hdtel, with the Casino 
Municipal, Boul. de la Mer, open April-Sept., R. from 5, B. I1/4, dej. 4, 
1). 5, pens, from 12 fr.; B6t. Rigina, in the forest, Ave. du Chateau; H6t. 
des Bains, Rue de Paris, dej. 272, D. 8, pens, from 71/2 fr. ; Hdt. des Dunes, 
R. from 3, pens, from 71/2 fr., Hdt. Duboc, R. from 3, D. 21/2, pens, from 
7 fr., both open all the year round. — Pension Van der Heyden, Rue 
St. Louis, from 10 fr. — Chalets and Furnished Houses. — Sea Baths 75 c. — 
Information at the Foncihre ImmohHihre de Paris-Plage, Villa St. Josse. 

Paris-Plage is a summer-resort of recent creation, situated at the mouth 
of the Canche, with a line sandy beach, two casinos, an esplanade, good 
golf-links, a motor-track, etc. The pine-woods (ForH du Touquet) which 
fringe it were planted on the dunes in 1837. 

The train crosses the Baie de la Canche by a viaduct. 46 M. 
St. Josse. — 49 M. Rang-du- Fliers- Verton (see above). 

From Rang-du-Flikbs-Veeton to Bebck, 31/2 M., railway in 1/4 hr. (fares 
70,55,40 c.). Prolongation to Paris-Plage (see above) projected. 

Berck. — Hotels (at Berck-Plage; open all the year round). Qr.-E6l. 
de France et des Bains; Or. -Hdt. de la Paix; Hdt. de Ruisie, R. fiom 4, 
B. 1, d^j. 4, D.4, pens, from 9 fr.; Continental, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr.; 
de Paris, on the beach, R. from 2, pens, from 6 fr. ; du Globe, pens, from 
6 fr.; du Nord; de la Terrasse, pens, from 6 fr. ; de I'Espirance; du Com- 
merce. — Pension. Cottage des Dunes., with a large garden, pens, from 
7'/-.' fr. Chalets and Furnished Flouses to lot. — Casinos (adm. 50 c). 



12 Route 1. ABBEVILLE. 



From Calais 



Eden Casino, with liot.-restaurant, on the ])eacb; Kursaal, Ave. do la Oarc. — 
I'oit tt Ttltijraph Office, at Berck-i'lage station. — Sea Jlaths. Balhiii"-tjox 3U 
•peignoir' 25, towel iU c. — Hyndicut d JnUiative, Rue Carnot. " ' 

Berck proper, a asbing-village. lies 11/4 M. from lierck- Plage, the modern 
sea-batbing place. The latter Las the reputation of being remarkably 
healthy and several hospitals have been estaltlisbed here. The beach is 
entirely of sand and there is a long esplanade. 

About 5 M. from Itang du-1' liers stati(;n is Merlimont-Plage {Gr.-IIOl. 
de la Piaffe; Hdt. de la Terrasse; Bellevue), another small bathing-resort. 

The name of (631; 2 >i.j Conchil-le- Temple is a reminiscence of 
the Knights Tcuiplar. The Autkie is crossed. 56 M. Quend-Fort- 
Mahon is the station for Quend-PLaye (Hot. Bellevue) and Fort 
Mahon (Hot. de Paris j de la To(ir), two small bathing-places. — 
59'/2^I- 'B.ViB(H.6t. duChemin-de-Fer; des VoyayeursJ. The beautiful 
Chapelle du St. Esprit, adjoining the church, is a relic of an older 
church dating from the 18-16th centuries. 

66 M.Noyelles-sur-Mer (Hot. des Voyageurs) is connected by a 
branch-railway with (7 M.) Forest- 1' Abb aye (p. 14j. In the vicinity 
is the ford of Biarhchetaque, where PMward IlL crossed the Somme 
before the battle of Crecy. 

A branch-railway runs from Noyelles, along an embankment washed 
by the sea at high tide, to (3V2 M.) St. Valery-sur-Somme (Catino-Grand- 
Hdtel; H6L. de France tt de famille; du Lion-d'Or; du Commerce), a town 
with 3658 inhab., a casino, and modest baihing-arrangements. irum this 
little port William the Conqueror finally set sail for England on Sept. 27th, 
lU6t) (comp. p. 155). Some of the ancient furtilications 3till remain. At low 
tide the wet sands at the mouth of the Somme may be crossed on foot 
(two ferries, 20 and 15 c.) to (3/4 hr. 5 2 M.) Le Crotoy (see below). — From 
St. Valery the line goes on to (11 M.j Cayeux (Mot. des Bains ; du Commerce 
et de la Plage; Central), a frequented sea-bathing resort, about IV4 M. 
to the N.E. of which lies Brighton- Plage (Hot. Bellevue ^ des Sapins). 

Another branch-railway runs from Noyelles to (5 31.) Le Crotoy (Grand- 
Ildtel; H6t. de la Marine; du Crotoy), an unpretending sea-bathing place, 
with a small harbour and some remains of its old fortifications. 

To the right as we proceed stretches the wide bay at the mouth 
of the Somme, crossed by the branch-line to St. Valery (see above). 
Beyond (69 M.) Port- le- Grand we cross the canalized Somme. 

74 M. Abbeville. — Hotels. Hot. de la T£te-de-B(euf (PI. a; C, 4), 
R. from 3, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 9, omn. 1/2 fr., good; dk France 
(PI. b; C, 3), R. 21/2-3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. IO-IUV2, omn. 1/2 fr.; de la 
Gabe (.Pi. c; A, 5), R. from 2, D. 3 fr. — Cafes in the Place de 1 Amiral 
Courbet. — Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 75 c, 3-4 pers. Ifr. ; per hr. IV2 or 
2 fr. — Post & Telegraph Office (PI. B, 4), Grande-Rue-Notre-Dame 19. — 
Swimming Bath (Pi. B, 6), Buul. des Prcs. 

Abbeville, an ancient fortress and an important cloth- manu- 
facturing town, with 20,704 inhab., is situated on the Somme, on 
which there is a small harbour. 

Abbeville was of sufficient importance under Hugh Capet to receive 
a girdle of ramparts , and it was the rendezvous for the leaders of the 
lirst two crusades. At the marriage of Eleanor of Castile to Edward I. 
in 1272 it passed to England, and it remained with little interruption 
under English dominion for nearly 200 years. After a short period under 
the dukes of Burgundy it fell finally to France in 1477. In 1514 the 
marriage of Louis XII. with Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII., was cele- 
brated at Abbeville; and in 1527 Wolsey and Francis 1. signed here their 
alliance against Charles V. 



AiiiVILLi 

1: 15.000 

lOO 200 30O 




ft impriinp par VTa^er 8. Dehes . Ledpti^ 



to Amiens. ABBEVILLE. ,. ^,^^, I3 

t^em.'ZTeZ!^^^^^^^^^^ edifice of 

scale. The handsome *Fa,adeta\^tw" t^trf^^^^^^^^ 

terio^^trLtt iTarrX^ ^^„?Th'e l?c\?i^^?^"^ ^^^^ *^-* «^ the ex- 
the foundations, have renuired to ht ptf ' '"v^"^^*^ ^^ *^e «i°l^iDg of 
to the usual rule, the fflr is the let^tT^-"'*^ supported. Contrary 
17th century. Th^ rich trifoHum in thTml^lT^ Part dating from the 
The first two chapels on the TfThave finf^f^^^w"* '^^^^ '' remarkable, 
and the third chapels on each sid? 7nnf»° ''"f altar-screens (16th cent.), 
The ChapelJe de Ke Dame des Me-Sl^^^^^ f^.^ '""^5*^^"^ (15-16th cent.) 
tains an altar of the Virgin with pr!^ 1 \.* *^® ^"'^ °^ ^^^ S. aisle, con- 
The altar at the end of he cW has?cS ,f "° ^^ '"T. Assumption (im). 
painted on a gold ground o;pos4thTdon^''*fPf^'^'''"' late 14th cent ) 
fication of the Virgin painted oSglassa525r ' '^'"'*^ '' ^ ^^°"- 

aim iviercie. — Lesueur, the compospr fl 760-18^7^ wi.1 ^^uiere 

historycoIlertionT„7in«„ ' 'PPl'«»t'»n), containing natural 

St. Pierre, dates frt^lTl^ti l^nry^' '" '"' '^'* ''"^ *^^ "»- 
tl.o Pkce de ?r.„t!Vr"^wf ' '''^ ^"^"""'^ '"' *"« '^"^^ -e quit 

wLose ho„se,?nth street ?, I "" " *'"' "'""^ (1788-1868), 
fe -Perthes rpi 1 r /l ! • . <>»™Pied by the Musec Boucher- 

many of doubtful anfhe,.f7-f T f ' ^'^""^h. =">4 Dutch schools, 

/he church ;t ST fR^D's*? "f T^''^ ^'''"'''^ 
3t.GilIes. possesses a he»,Hf \^\ I '' "' ^^ """^ »' 'he Rue 

mmenseEoman camp cVi)'abl. i , <" A''*«yille. were tlie site of an 
'Wch, however, no/Vemain, °^ "«»""-odatiDg 14 legions, no trace of 

ofr^'S"7^';"To"rfr6fr,''"'"'d'hf/? "■• ""'""^ - ^./.a./, ■.„. ,,>„, 



14 Route I. CU^CY. From Calais 

71/ M St Riauier (Ildt. de VAnge- Gabriel), an ancient town was form- 
er^ highly celebrated for its abbey, which w»s founded by St. Riquxer 
?n 645 and enjoyed the special favour of Dagobert, Charlem.gne and . 
Hu^h Capet It has, however, never recovered from its frequent de- 
struction at the hands of Normans, Burgundians, French Germans, 
and Kliah. In 1536 a determined attack on the town by the troops 
of Chvrles V. was valorously repulsed, chiefly through the bravery of 
The w men One heroine, named Becqu^toille, is said to have captured 
■, h.S flag with her own bands. The abbey was, rebuilt after a Are 
in the 18th cint.: it is now occupied by a seminary and is comparatively un- 
interesting The adjoining Church of St. Riquier ia, however, a mostnot- 
Lhle eKamole of Gothic architecture in the 15-16th centuries The facade 
nnd W Tower are lavishly adorned with sculpture , thouf^h the soft nature 
of thl stone has unfortunately withstood the ravages of the weather very 
noorlv The vaulting of the interior deserves special notice , as do also 
FnT. rif the 9tatues the font, the bas-reliefs on the walls, the choir-stalls, 
and the higtarr\ wi^ a large wooden statue of Christ by Girardon 
The Salle de la Tresorerie is adorned with ten frescoes from tbe life of 
It Riquier with inscriptions in old French , and with a kind of Dance 
of Death, entitled 'the Three Dead and the Three Living (16th cent.). 
The treasury is still rich. A„t>,;o 

191/2 M. Auxi-le-Chdteau (Hot. St. Martin), a sma 1 t^Y," «%*.^^,^^^*^^^"; 
with the scanty ruins of a chateau. - 28V2 M. ^r^'^/^^; W. ^-SL ^^ ; Jor 
these two stations and the connecting railway, see p. 22. 42 M. ^»ia< '8 
he iuSon for Bully-Grenay (p. 18). The railway now descends the 
valley of the Worence. Beyond (57 M.) Fouquereuilwe join the Calais and 
Arras line, l^A M. on this side of BW,une (p. 18). ^^,, ^ ^ , .. 

From Abbeville to Dompiebre-sur-Authie (Crecy), 191/2 M., local rail- 

/ft TO 2 fr To If? S") Crecyen-Poithieu fffltei du Canon-d-Or>, a 
'bamle'fVa"u«?o/.t victiy w/n on Aug. 26tb. 13«V t.y E,.„ard " . of 
FnHind over Philip of Valois, King of France. The English lorces couia 
not hrvenuLhered more thaA 25,(XiO, while the French army was about 
?00(XK) str3 hut the want of discipline among the haughty French 
rScoXibuted largely to the defeat. The slaughter was jer^grea 
Froissart savs that 11 princes, 80 bannerets, 1200 kmghts, and du,uwu loox 
men were s^'in on the French side. One of the eleven prxnces was the 
SindKing John of Bohemia, whose crest (the °o^\ f^m^l^^J:/^"^ fhf 
Wales^s Feathers') and motto' Cich dien') were adopted by Edward the 
Plack Prince who commanded the fir.st division of the English. - 
A monuSent' in the village commemorates John of Bohemia: and the 
batUe fieS 11/2 M to the E., is marked by an ancient ^^^'^8 (^r«'^/« 
Bohemel The wind-mill, whence Edward III. watched the bat le, on a 
fitt^elSm, about 1/2 M. to 'the N.E. of the station, existed until late in the 

^^''Anoth:?- branch-line runs from Abbeville to (28 M.) En Cp. 36) and 
joins the line to Le Tr^port (p. 37). 

791/9 M. Pont-Remy, a large industrial village, with a castle, 
dating in part from the Uth or 15th cent, which played an im- 
portant part in the Hundred Years; War with England. - 85 M 
Lonqpre (Eot. Prevost-Louchet^ The Camp de I Etoile, "l^ k"^. to 
the E N.E., is perhaps the most interesting Roman camp m 1 ranee.. 

From LoNGPBft to Le TrAport, 34 M., railway in IV2-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 
^0 f ?r 40 2 fr 85 c ) - 41/2 M. ^ Vam« (Hot. de I'Ecu-de-France)^ on the 
river of the sfme name, has two interesting churches. About 3 M. to the 
W of (121/2 ^^Oisemont is the large Chdteafi de Ramhures, a well-preserved 
med^Lval stronghold. At (25 M.) LongroyGamache, we .,oin the line tc 

^^ Vhl'tral^'h-tailw^t^-^-ngpr. to (11 M.) Canaple. Joins here the 



to Amiens. ST. OMER. ;./joi.<e. 15 

castle of the 16th century. About 13/^ M. to the N.E lies the Roman 
Camp de Tirancourt or Grand-Fort ^'^ 

9B M. Ailly-sur-Somme; 971/2 M. /)r6w^7-^e.-^mien3. The line 
how emerges from the valley of the Somme. - lOOVo M St Roch 
a suburban station for Amiens (p. 24). Traversing tw/shoit tunnels' 
and a cutting, we now s\irt the S. side of (102M ) Amiens (p. 24)! ' 

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras. 

Calais, see p 3._11/<M. Les Pontinette, fp. 5)- 2V,M Pont 
de-Coulognc; 51/2 M. Les AUaques. - The line divert', f!!;^!^ I 

branches spanning the two last-lramed ' anat " 7 vt M Polr 
dArclHs (Hot. Dodanthun), whence a diligence plies to rf Ml ti" 

, A branch-railway runs from this fltfltinn tn hq ^t ^ ^ 

Amarshydistrict,intersectedbynumerouscanals,isnowt?a^^^^^^^ 

near ?hf basnic?"^" oTD^^^fr^' .fj' ^^ ^^r ^-' ^^ HenH-Dupuis 4, 
«• V4, dej. 3, D Fpe;, 8 o^n v/ff^'^'n^' ^v*°^' ^^""^ ^6, R. from 27, 
pulcre. - Cafes, in ihl' rJ^^ v,?^- ' i^^ Votagedrs, Rue du St S?- 
Telegraph Office; Rue Car/ot 64. "^ "''■ ^"•^'' "* *^^ ''^'^'^- ~ ^^.ti 
St. Omer is an industrial and commercial town with 20 QPq ,-. 

(p. 10, the townlonXmeJp? t om?nX'°'^^^^ 

laged, and burnt T» h^Tn ^ ot Flanders, and was often besieeed nil 

En^liW (1337 r,*d 1339)'rd"n"',e?;rhlf iL\t h"l^' .*"° t'''^'^'^^ '^^ 

captured the town in 1677 s?nce whi^h A^. ^/^*^^ ?^^°^^- Louis XIV. 

Leaving th. J. '* ^*' belonged to France. 

entPr f\Tf ^^^^^^^^i^"' ^e cross the Canal de Neuf- Fosse and 
enter the town bv tbp Pn^ /q« i'a« i , ^■'cux xu&se, ana 

Porte de Lvzll ImZZJ *'"'^' '^ *^" '^^^ «^ ^^^^ former . 

-ith a bronze statiie of Ij r "Vt'' ''' ^^^^"^^ ^"^ a square 
,nrr,v,i- T s^*"^e of Jacqueline Robins, a heroine of 1710 .^ 
'enabling Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais (d 381 Fnr ^ ' T 

■uins of /Sf Bprtin +Ko o^i ^*='*y'J^s IP- o6j. J^arther on are the 

!40 by St Bert^' a r„!t".;7'""?°T'"' ^^^'^ '"""^'^ i" 

■eg".; iu 1326 fd'fl'sh'nVrBOo' "'■"l''''""*'''^ '° » »""-» 
uu nnisnecl in 1520, on a site previonsly occupied 



16 Route 1. ST. OMER. From Calais 

by two earlier chnrchos. Childeric TTI. died in this abbey after 752, 
and Thomas Becket also found a temporary asylum here on his way 

to ^^^*^^^^ ^^^^^ g^' p^g^tin leads hence to the centre of the town, 
passing, on the left, the Coiage St. Bertin, and, farther on the Cosie 
Militarv HosvitnL a building erected after various fires (the last m 
fsteronTe'lite' of a college founded in 1592 by English Jesuits 
for the training of the Roman Catholic youth of Great Bntam 
Dr Alban Butler (d. 1773), author of 'Lives of the Samts , was 
Lctor of th s institution, and Daniel O'Connell was one of its 
most flmous pupils. On the right, beyond the Sous- Prefecture is 
7eChZl ofV. Dermis, rebuilt in the 18th cent., but still retain- 
ing its original tower of the 13th. 

The^ChurchofNotre-Dame, a large andhandsome building dating 
chiefly from the J3-15th cent., lies to the left, beyond the end of 
Ihe Rue St. Bertin. It has a massive W. tower (165 ft. h^g^^^^ 
four portals, of which the most elaborate is that on the S., with a 
tvmnflTium adorned with a Last Judgment. , v. v 



screens 



13th cent., represeniin^ Christ ??J7«/";°« ;,"%;j"^t from the cathedral 
the 'Grand Dien <;« Tj^erouanne^ hecau^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ 

of that town (p. 11) in 155^. •^^f^^f™';^''V'„ tv„ ^ave to the left, is the 
Cross by Rubens, spoiled ^7 ^^f^Jf jt;°°„ from the 13th cent. ; and to the. 
tomb of St. Omer with ^f" '1^ n" wi ^5381^ Bishop of Arras, with very 
right, the tomb of Enstache de f^^^^ ^^"^^f iv^^^.l^^^ since its 

interesting stat.ne and o^°%«'««,':^*J^^°T.^^^4l'l^f a„d "^ are 

erection in 1717, deserves attention Th^ pulpit and the co ^^^ ^^^ ^.^^^,, 
excellent specimens of wood-carving. In tiietmra^P^ receiving her 
0. de Grayer. .Toh; in the f«"^ J/,-,^^/;tde fartief on, are some good 
nun\s veil from ^b^^7^"^,^^^^„*^y,T^„Srrf«. Miraclesl in the S. tran- 
modern re lefs. ^f.^J^.^^^l^/o^hcenn which is surmounted by a wooden 
sept, is a large gilded altar y7°,?,^"!«'^ On the right is a paint- 

figure of the Virgin, J^^^f'^^^^^^^^^^^^^ the altar is 

ing of St. George and he dragon, by /T^firter. ana v^ ^^^^^ ^^^ 

Christ before Pilate, a larg%canvas by 7«« ^p.to^. -^^^^^^^ 
three small high reliefs, painted and ^^^f •.j,^^^*^,%Xca'Sar the things 
screen (reliefs) is a V^'''^''^^.^^ J^^^fi the ?niarfl. an ex-voto oflferinp 
that are Ceesar s') a-J/^^ggl*' con^^«ng S J bas-relief in alabaster nd 
of Dean Pe ^a aing (d. 15M) gj^j'^ /'^^.^^^e Fiery Furnace. Opposi' i; 
stone, representing the Hebrew ^J^J^;^^^ \° '^^^ ^^ ^^al chapel is the ex 
n fine painting with side wings ; and ^PPOSite the apsi ai y _ 

voto of Delibourg, Christ ^le^cending frona he Cross to ^he a^ ^^^.^_,^^-,, 
celebration of the Communion. Adjoining the lett si ae ^^^^^ 

The Rnc Henii-Dupms conducts "^^ft^ /''f '^f* ^fthe sma' 
Grande Place via the flsh-market, in *hich, o the left, yhe sma 
MuKe Henri-Duvuia (miscellaneous eunosities). In the Ijrana 
Se rile tl e „ld mil du BamiMge (18th centO, now a sav.np 
b nV Tnd the HMd de Ville. a modern edifice, which a'^o contair 
a^TlZtre and the Mu,(e de Peinturc (chiefly Flemish pamtings ( 



to Amiens. HAZEBROUCK. /. Route. 17 

minor importance; open on the 1st Sun. in each month, 12-4, on 
other days on application). A street parallel to the flsh-market 
(see p. 16) leads from the Hotel de Ville to the Place Victor-Hngo, 
at the beginning of the Rue Carnot. The former Hotel Colbert 
(1765), Rue Carnot 14, contains the Musee Archeologique (open 
on Sun. & holidays 2-4 or 5 ; on other days on application). — Some 
distance to the left of the Rue Carnot is the Church of St. Sepulcre 
a building of the 13-14th cent., with a tower and spire 170 ft. high.' 
In the interior is an Entombment by Gasp, de Crayer. 

About 13/4 M. to the S.E., on the Canal de Neuf-Foss^, is the Ascenseur 
des Tontinettes or d Argues (station, p. 10), a remarkable hydraulic lift, 
constructed in 1883-88, by means of which canal-boats are enabled to avoid 
hve locks and thus to shorten their journey very considerably. The structure 
consists iiiamly 01 two enormous metal caissons, containing sufficient water 
to float the boats, and so connected that when one is filled or emptied the 
other rises or falls owing to the difference in weight. The difference of 
level thus surmounted is about 40 ft. At the top the caissons are connected 
with a can;il carried over the railway 

<M/ V'\^n^^''\^'''^J^'"^-.^^- Onier-to (161/2 M.) Berguette (see below) is 
51/2 M. shorter than the railway via Hazebrouck, but is not traversed bv 
^^^""^ J^l rf'- }^ """"^ "'* ^^^V2 M.) Aire-sur-la-Lys (E6t. de la Clef 
dWr; dAngleierre), a town with 7999 inhab., on the Lvs\ with an inter- 
esting church (St. ^rre -ib-iSih cent.), an H6tel de VilleVf The iSth cent , 
and the handsome Bdiel du Bailliage or Corps de Garde of the 16th cent- 
ury. — From Aire to Berck via Montreuil-sur-Mer, see d 11 
From St. Omer to Boulogne, see p. 10. 

Near (30 M.) Renescure the line to Boulogne (p. 10) diverges 
to the right. ^r j & 

371/2 M. Hazebrouck (J?w/fef-^6ee^, Hot. du Nord, du Faucon, all 
at the station), with 12,819 inhab., on the Bourre, is an important 
railway-junction , at the intersection of lines to Arras, Dunkirk 
(p 37), Lille (p. 52), Calais, and Ypres. The Church of St. Eloi 
(Ibth cent.) has an elegant and conspicuous tower, 260 ft. high 

o fr ^2^'^ ^t^^^'',''''^ '''?J''-^^'^^T^'^-^ '^"^^y i° l-iV4 br. (fares 2 fr. 95. 
« ti . /[), 1 tr. &0 c). — 71/2 M. Godewaersvelde, the last French station i<5 
situated at the foot of the Mont des Cats, on'which is a modern convent 

?nllnw-PP'',* "'.°°^'; . T**^ ^^^^* "^y ^« «P^^t i° the convent, and » 
ollowing day devoted to excursions to the Mont Noir and the Mont de Lille 
sandy and wooded hills on the Belgian frontier. - At (91/2 M.) Abeele ihk 
vw m^-f /*^'^"^;,>" custom-house examination is made - & M 
ipres {Uot. de la Chatellenie; de rEp^e-Boyale), with a very interestin; 
cathedral and cloth-hall. See Baedeker^s Belgium and Holland '°*^""'*^°S 

;7.« J/.'^?? ?°^/H?° - T "^''^^'■*''^^^ <^ ^81/2 M.) Merville, and to (21 M ) 
Hondschoote (p. 41), via Steenwoorde, Rexpoede, etc. 

Beyond (41 1/2 M.) Steenbecque the train skirts the Forest of 
Nieppe. 44 M. Thiennes. Two canals are crossed. — From (47 M ") 
Berguette a branch-line runs to (81/2 M.) Estree-Blanche. 

From Berguette to Armentih-es, see p. 65; to St. Omer, see above 

51 M. Lillers (H6t. du Commerce), with 7993 inhab. , has a 
curious church in the Transition style. Artesian wells derive their 
namefrom the district of Artois, where the earliest (still pointed 
out; b5 ft. deep) is said to have been sunk at Lillers in the 12th or 
13th century - At (57 M.) Fouquereuil the railway to Abbeville 
diverges to the right (p. 14). 

Baedkkkk's Northern Fiance. 5th Edit. 



18 lioulc I. LENS. From Cahm 

h^^l-l M. Bethune (Hotel du Nord ; Lion d'Or), a manufacturing 
and commercial town with 13, GOT inhab., is situated at the junction 
of two canals. It was the capital of an ancient barony and was one 
of the fortresses of Artois. The peace of Utrecht united it to France 
in 1713. The chief objects of interest are the Belfry, of the 14th cent., 
and the Church of St. Vaast, of the 16th cent., with columns of the 
13th century. — Railway to Lille, see p. 60; to Abbeville, see p. 13. 
Steam-tramway to fll M.) Estaires. 

62 M. Noeux. — 66 M, Bully-Orenay has important coal-mines. 
Branch railways run hence to (19V2 5I-) f^rias (St. Pol and Abbeville; 
p. 14) and to (B M.) Violaines (p. 60). 

70 M. Lens (Grand-Hotel; Hot. des Voyageurs; du Commerce; 
deFlandre; Buffet- Hotel), an ancient town with 27,744 inhab., 
situated on the Souchez or Deule, was formerly fortified, and was 
frequently captured in the wars of the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. 
Conde' gained an important victory over the Spaniards in the neigh- 
bourhood in 1648. Lens lies at the centre of the coal-fields of the 
Pas-de-Calais, which have an area of 200 sq. M. and yield 15,000,000 
tons of coal per annum, employing 25,000 hands. 

From l.en3 a branch-railway runs to (52V2 31., in IV4-IV4 br.) Armen- 
tiires (p 65) via Bauvin-Provin, Don-Sainghin., and Wavrm, and another to 
(I2V2 M in V2 hr.) Lihercourt (p. 50). The latter forks at (6 M.) H6mn- 
LUtard, an ancient town with 16,016 inhab., the one branch leading to 
Lihercourt (p. 50), and the other proceeding via (4^/2 M.) Courrthres, the 
church of which contains a magnilicent torn ol one ot the Blontmorency 
family and HVa M.) Carmn (Cygne-, Laloux; de Kome), an iidustrial town 
with 10,736 inhab. -(p. 50), to (10 M.) Bauvin-Provin {st^jibovj) __ 

Another local line runs from Lens to (331/2 M.) Frivent (p. 22) via 
Auhigny. 

Near (76 M.) Farbus-Vimy the railway to Lihercourt diverges to 
the left (see above]. The line now traverses the valley of the Scarpe 
by means of a viaduct and embankments, and joins the railway from 
Douai before reaching Arras. 

82 M. Arras. — Hotels. Hot. de lTniveks (PI. a; D, 3), Place de 
la Croix-Rouge 3, with garden, R. 3-6, dej. 31/2, D 33/4, pens 9V2-12, 
omn 1/2 fr., well spoken of: du Commehce (PI. b; E, 3), Rue Ganibetta27, 
R. from 21/2, dej. 3, I). 3V2 fr. ; dd Petit-St-Pol (PI. c; D,8), Place dt, 
Theatre 19, R. 2, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. - Cafes in the Place du Theatre; ^«#^<- 
Hdtel (dd). or D. 3 fr., snack IV2 fr.) at the station. - Post Office (PI- J^./), 
Rue Gambetta 40. — Cabs. Per drive for 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3-4 pers. lV2fr.; 
per hour IV2 or 2V4 fr. 

Arras, formerly fortified, with 24,921 inhab., situated on the 
right bank of the Scarpe, the ancient capital of Artois, is now the 
chief town of the department of Pas-de-Calais, and the seat of a 
bishop. Its grain-trade is very considerable. 

Arras was the capital of the Gallic tribe of the Atrebaies, under the 
name of Nemetacum or Nemetocenna . It seems to have been famous for its 
woollen cloth as early as the 4th century. In the middle ages the tapestry- 
hangings of Arras had a bigh reputation, and many ot them are still 
preserved, especially in England, where the name of the town itself was 
used as their comiLon name. The manufacture has long been extinct. 
The town followed the fortunes of the Pays d' Artois, of which it was the 
capital, passing through many hands before its final incorporation with 




.^ V X V ^" 






>^^^- 

W^v.3 









I ■ ^ wJs a A,'*>, ,* fit ^^. /re- ^^W^^^ »!« I' 




^ tta 



^^^|^.^k^^' 



'^<rp-ir^ 



to Amiena, ARKAS. 1. Route. 19 

France in 1640. After the battle of Agincourt (1415) the English and French 
signed the treaty of peace at Arras. The Peace of Arras, in 1482, marks 
an epoch in French history, determining the N. frontier of France at the 
expense of the feudal state of Burgundy. — Arras was the birthplace of 
Maximilien Robespierre (1758-94) and his younger brother Joseph (1763-94), 
and of Joseph Lebon, originally a cure, who organized the 'Terror' in Arras 
and distinguished himself by his cruelties. 

The Station (PI. E, F, 4), in the new quarter that has sprung up 
since the demolition of the fortifications, stands at one end of a broad 
thoroughfare traversing the town under various names (Rue Gam- 
betta, Rue Ernestale, Rue St. Aubert, etc.). On the left side of the 
Rue Gambetta rise the Post Office (VI. E, 4) and, farther on, the 
Chapelle des Ursulines (PI. E, 3, 4; now a girls' school), in the 
Transition style (1865), with a pretty tower built in imitation of the 
smaller tower of La Sainte Chandelle, which formerly adorned the 
Petite Place. We reach the latter Place and the Hotel de Ville by 
the Rue St. Gery, which leads to the right a little farther on. 

The Petite Place (PL E, 3) and the Grande Place (PL E, F, 2, 3), 
united by the broad Rue de la Taillerie in the same style, are curious 
relics of the period of Spanish domination, in the 17th century. 
Both are surrounded with uniformly built houses, with arcades be- 
low, supported by monolithic sandstone columns, and curious gables 
above. No. 49, Grande Place, dates from the 14th century. Beneath 
the Grande Place and other parts of the town are huge subterranean 
magazines and cellars, originally quarries and known as 'boves'. 

The *H6tel de Ville (PL E, 3), in the Petite Place, built in 
the 16th cent, by Jacques Caron and restored in tlie 19th cent., is 
one of the handsomest in the N. of France, with a fine Gothic facade, 
rising upon seven arches of different sizes. The lateral facades are 
in an elaborate Renaissance style; that on the N. is modern. The 
two large saloons qn the first floor contain Gothic wood-carving and 
large chimney-pieces. The graceful Belfry (1463-1554), which ter- 
minates in a crown, is 245 ft. high. The 'Banclocque' or 'Joyeuse', 
the largest bell, dates from 1728 and weighs nearly 9 tons. 

The church of St. Jean Baptiste (PI. E, 3; 1565-84), near the Petite 
Place, contains a Descent from the Cross attributed to Rubens, and an 
Assumption attributed to Phil, de Champaigne. 

A little beyond the Hotel de Ville are the extensive buildings 
of the former Abbey of St. Vaast (PL D , 2) , entirely rebuilt in 
the 18th cent, and now occupied by the Mnse'e. The Garden is 
embellished with bronze busts of eminent natives of Arras. 

The Mus6e, including a gallery of paintings and an archaeological 
collection, occupies most of the groundfioor on the N.W. or garden 
side (see below). The public are admitted (10-1 and 2-5) every 
Sun. from April to Sept., and on the first Sun. of each month during 
the rest of the year (entr. from the garden); for adm. on other days 
visitors apply to the concierge, at the large portal in the Place de 
la Madeleine (entr. from the court, see p. 20 ; gratuity). 

Ground Floor. From the Vestibule (entered from the garden), which 
contains casts, we turn to the right to the !Salon Cakr6. 24. Bonvin, 

2* 



20 Houte I. ARRAS. From Calais 

Tavern-interior; ./. Rrelon, 34. Misery and desjiair, 35. Hoposc-, 61. /f. Collin, 
Idyl; (i'l. Coroi, Mnrninp effect; S'2. Evg. Delacroix, Martyrdom of St Stephen; 
96. Diaz, Odalisques; 174. Baron Girard. I'ortr;iit of tlit- arti.si ; 188. HMouin, 
An Arab mill; 207. Monchahlon, The Roche Verte; 226. Le lioux . Before 
the burial; 296. Robert F I eury, Leda; 560. Em. Breton, Before the storm. — 
Grandk Galkkie. 17. Berthon, During mass; E/n. Breton. 32. Hurricane, 
33. Night; 42. Cnllot, Ariadne; 47. Carrier- BeUeuse, Asphalt workers; 
51. CAi(7o^ St. Jo.sse ; G. Co/in (<'f Arras), 55. I'ull-njhf, 56. Bar of Bidas.<--oa; 
76. Damorje , Landscape; 85. Demont , The Flood; 119. Duhem, Knd of the 
day; 158. Feyen-Perrin, Women of Cancale: 170. Gelhay. Before the magi- 
strate; 172. O^oi!^, Kustache de St. Pierre (see p. 4); 177. Glaize, Human 
folly; 234. H. Mvy, Joash after his e.scape from the mas.'jacre; 244. Marer, 
The grandmother; 313. Sebron, Interior of Vienna cathedral; 322. Tatie- 
grain, Louis XL entering Paris; 366. Yvon, Ceesar; Ziegler, 370. Death of 
the Doge Foscari, 371. Henri IV and Margaret of Valois. — The following 
TiiKEE Rooms contain chiefly works by Doncre (^Nos. 97-111) and other 
painters of Artois. — We return to the Grande Galerie, quit it to the right, 
and find ourselves opposite the entrance to the Musee from the Place (see 
p. 19). — On the right are the two Salles Constant Dutii.leux, with 
works by that painter (1807-65) and his pupils. On the left are the Salle 
DEs Dessins, and two other Rooms containing paintings. — From the 
ve'^tibule beyond we enter the Room to the Right. 25. Both, Italian 
landscape; dS.^Velvef Brueghel, The Earthly Paradise; IPO. Van Heemiskerck, 
Tavern-scene; 236. J. B. Vanloo (?), Portrait of Louis XV.; 260. P. Neefi, 
Church-interior; 280. Bassano, Family-concert; 317,318. Snydcrs, Hunting- 
scenes; 351. Verbruggen, Children adorning a statue of Pan; 353. Vermeyen, 
Entombment. — Salle Collard. 249. Van der Meulen, Passage of the 
Rhine; 281, 282. Pourbus (?), 293. Rigavd (?), Portraits; 3'^4. Wouvemian, 
Battle. — Salon Italien. 3P. Van den Broeck, Last Judgment; 40. Ph. de 
Champaigne 0), Portrait; 70. Van Craesheeck, Card-player.-^; 73. De Grayer (7), 
Tobias and the angel; 152, 153. Van Essen, Still-life; 1.54. Fabritins, The 
three angels visiting Abraham; 178. Goltzmx , The golden age; 185. Frans 
Hals, Young fisherman; 209. Jordaens, Bacchanal; 216, 2l7.. LargillHre, 
Portraits; *289. Nic. Maes', Portrait of a woman (1667); 299. Byckaert, Tavern- 
interior; 323, 324,- 325. Teniers the Younger, Interiors; Waiteau de Lille, 358. 
Love-offering, 359. Sacrifice to Priapus. 

We next enter the Cloisters, which are devoted to the Archaeological 
Collection of sculptures and architectonic fragments, etc. The gallery to 
the left contains drawings, plaster casts after the antii^ue, and a large 
wooden model of the cathedral (see below). 

From the vestibule staircases ascend to the upper floors. On the 
First Floor are miscellanecus collections and the Salle Arrageoise con- 
taining objects of local interest. On the Second Floor are a Natural History 
Collection and an Industrial Museum. 

In the same building are preserved the Library (47,700 vols., 209 in- 
cunabula, 2482 JISS.; open Mon.-Frid., 10-12 & 2-4) and the Archives D&- 
partementales. 

The Cathedral (PI. D, 2), at the N.E. angle of the abbey-build- 
ings, was built in 1755-1833 to succeed the old abbey-chnrch. It 
contains some good paintings, including a Descent from the Cross 
and an Entombment, attributed respectively to Rubens and Van 
Dyck (both in the ambulatory of the choir), and three small triptychs 
and a fine Head of Christ in the N. transept. In the S. transept is 
a St. Bernard supplicating inspiration from heaven, by Van Thulden. 
The high-altar is adorned with a bas-relief in gilded bronze. One 
of the chapels contains a Madonna by Cortot, and two modern 
monuments of bishops. 

Almost opposite the main door of the museum (see p. 19) opens 



to A:nien3. ALBERT. /. Route. 21 

the Rue des Rapporteurs, No. 5 in which (PI. 2; D, 3) was once in- 
habited by Robespierre. The Rue St. Aubert, on the right, leads to 
the Hopital St. Jean (PI. C, D, 2), in trout of which is a Statue of 
Abbe Halluin (1820-95), distinguished for his charity. At the end 
of the Rue St. Aubert rises the Fountain of Neptune (pi. 1 : C 2) • 
thence the Rue Baudimont leads on to the town-gate, which'formed 
part of the old ramparts. To the W. of the Rue St. Aubert is the 
Fish Market {V\. C, .3j. — The streets running parallel with the bar- 
racks lead to the Boulevard Crespel and to the Promenades (PI B 4) 
with their fine trees. Beyond these is the Citadel (Pi A 4) con- 
structed by V^auban in 1670-74, sarnamed 'La Belle-Inutile'' and 
now partly dismantled. ' 

A branch-railway runs from Arras to , J3 M.) Doullens (p. 23). - From 
Arras to Boulogne, see pp. 11, 10 5 to Douai and Valenciennes, pp. 41-46. 

Beyond Arras the lines to Doullens and St. Pol (p. 22) diverge 

to the right. From (871/2 M.) Boisleux: a branch -line runs to 

(ibV2 M.) Camhrai (p. 62) via (IG M.) Marquion. — 94 M Achiet 

lai bpneh-railway runs from Achiet to (2OV2 M.) Marcoing (Cambrai)! 

7 ^n,l- ^T"™'; ^S^h.^\^" ^t'.rh ^ «°^^" t^^'^ of 2946 inhabitants. 
tJIfTf f (^'^'j;''\.^f'dherbe (1818-89), by Louis-Noel, recalls the great 

\fh ,li « • ^"^' ^^Ih, ^t ^^f '^^^'^^^ «^" ^^'^*^ *^e Germans fell back be- 
om/ M S""^"^'" ~ ^^'^ fo Vdlu-BertiHcourt. Branch to Epehy (p. 62). - 
2UV'.j M. Marcoing, see p. 62. i- . v±' « , 

97 M. Miraumont; 100 M. Beaucourt-Hamel. — 105 M Albert 
(Hot des Voyageurs; de la THe-de-Boeuf), an industrial town with 
^04binhab. on the Ancre, which forms here a pretty waterfall The 
church of Notre- Dame -de-Brebieres, recently restored, attracts 
numerous pilgrims. The village was called Ancre until the reign 
of Louis XIIL, who presented it in 1617 to his favourite Charles 
d Albert, Due de Luynes. 

Narrow-gauge lines run from Albert to the W. to (27i/2 M ) Doullens 
(p. 23); and to the E. via (26V2 M.) F4ronne (p. 61) to (4S M.) Sm (p 64) 

115 M. Corbie (Hot. de la Paste; de la Marine; Restaurant 
Alexandre), with 4424 inhab., was once celebrated for its Bene- 
dictine abbey, of which the Church of St. Pierre (16-18th cent ) still 
remains, though disfigured at the beginning of the 19th century 
Ihe imposing portal, with its two towers, is well seen from the 
railway. 

The Somme is now crossed. — 117 M. Daours, at the con- 
nuence of the Somme and the Hallue. On the banks of the latter 
was fought the Battle of Pont-Noyelles, on Dec. 23rd 1870 be- 
tween Manteurtel and Faidherbe, which compelled the latter ti fall 
back on Arras. 

The canalized Somme is crossed. The line to Tergnier diverges 
to the left. — 1171/2 M. Longueau, where passengers to or from 
Amiens change carriages, as the through-trains between Arras and 
±'ans do not run into Amiens station (see p 41) 

1201/2 iM. Amiens, see p. 24. 



22 Rmiif 1. ST. POL. From Cnlan 

c. Via Anvin, St. Pol, Prevent, and Doullens. 

113 M. Railway in 103/* hrs. (fares about 19 fr. 90, 14 fr. 56, 10 fr. 26 c). 
There are no through-train a or through-tickets on this route, as the narrow- , 
gauiie line from Calais to (58Vi M.) Anvin docs not belong to the Compagnie 
du Nord. 

The trains start at Calais-Saint-Pierre, see p. 3. — V2 M. Calais- 
Fontinettes. At (2 M.) Coulogne the line to Paris via Boulogne 
diverges to the right, and the line to Arras to the left. 

6V2 ^- Guines (Vdle de Calais), a town with 4407 inhab., 
formerly the capital of the Comtes de Gaines and at one time fort- 
ified, is connected with Calais by a canal and by a tramway (p. 3). 
To the S. extends a large forest. Guines was taken by the English 
in 1352 and held by them for 200 years. 

7'/2 M. Andrea. — 8V2 ^- Balinghem was the scene in 1520 of the 
famous meeting of the Field of the Cloth of Gold between Henry VIII., 
who had taken up his abode at Guines, and Francis I. of France, who 
lodged at Ardres. The interview was so named from the lavish magni- 
ficence with which the two kings entertained each other. 

IOV2 M. Ardres (Hot. Debruyne; du Cheval-Blanc), a small town, 
formerly fortified, lies about 3 M. from the railway between Calais 
and Arras (p. 15). — At ( I8I/2 M.) Bonningues the railway is joined 
"by the line from Boulogne (p. 10), and at (31 M.) Lumbres it crosses 
the line from Boulogne to St. Omer (p. 10) and enters the valley 
of the Aa. — 38V2 M. Merck-St-Lievin has a fine church of the 
13th, 16th, and 17th centuries. Beyond (40^/2 M.) Fauquembergues, 
a small town with a fine church of the 12th, 13th, and 15th cent., 
we quit the valley of the Aa. — 441/2 M. Rimeux-Gournay is the, 
junction of the Montreuil-Berck line (p. 11). 

49 M. Fruges (Hot. du Cheval-Noir ; de la Gave), an ancient 
place (3020 inhab.). To Montreuil and to Aire-sur-la-Lys, see p. 11. 
About 31/2 M. to the S. of Fruges, and as far to the N.W. of the sta- 
tiou of Blangy-sur-Ternoise (p. 11), lies Agincourt or Azincourt, famous 
for the victory won by Henry V. over the French, on Oct. 25th, 1415. The 
English troops numbered about 9000; the French not less than 50,000. 
The Ghdteau of Radinghem, 3 M. to the N. of Fruges. together with 
its art-collections, was bequeathed to the town in 1907 as a public museum. 

At (581/2 M.) Anvin, the junction of the line to Boulogne 
(p. ii), the narrow-gauge line ends. 62V2 M. Wavrans. 

641/2 M. St. Pol (285 ft. ; Buffet; Hot. d'Angleterre), a town with 
3970 inhab., situated on the Ternoise, suffered severely in the wars 
of the 16th cent., and did not finally pass to France until the treaty 
of the Pyrenees in 1659. 

Lines to Arras and Boulogne, see p. 11; to Bully-Orenay and Lens, p. i%\ 

70 M. Petit-Houvin. The railway now quits the valley of the 
Ternoise for that of the Canche. — 7472 M- Frevent (Hot. d' Amiens), 
with 4755 inhab., is the junction of lines to Abbeville (p. 12) and to 
Lens (p. 18). The church ol St. Vaast dates partly from the 15th 
century. — Beyond (8OI/2 M.) Bouquemaison the line descends 
towards the valley of the Authie. 



to Paris. CLERMONT. / . Route. 23 

85V2 M. Doullens (175 ft.; Hot. des Quatre-FUs-Aymon), an 
industrial town with 5927 inhab., on the Authie, is the centre of a 
considerable trade in phosphates. The Citadel is now used as a 
prison for women. — Branch-line to Albert, see p. 21 ; to Arras, p. 21. 

On quitting Doullens the railway crosses the Authie, and beyond 
(88 M.) Oezaincourt it begins to ascend as it leaves the valley of that 
river. We then descend through the undulating and wooded valley 
of the Fleffe to (96 M.) Canaples (branch to Longprc, see p. 14). 
100 M. Vignacourt, an industrial village. — 103 M. Flesselles. 

At Naours, Si/z M. to the N., a subterranean refuge was discovered 
in 1888, forming practically a village, with streets V^ M. in aggregate 
length, flanked with chambers of various kinds. 

109^2 M. Long pre-les- Amiens. The Somme is crossed, and the 
Gare de St. Roch passed. — 113 M. Amiens^ see p. 24. 

II. From Amiens to Paris, 
a. Via Creil. 

8IV2 M. Railway in 1V2-33/* hrs. (fares 14 fr. 75, 9 fr. 90, 6 f r 45 c). 
The trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. G, 4). 

At (3 M.) Longueau (buffet) the lines to Arras, Lille, etc. 
diverge to the left (p. 21). — 61/2 M. Boves (Hot. de la Paix), with 
a ruined castle on a hill to the right. (Railway to Compiegne, see 
p. 70.) — The line follows the valley of the Noye^ passing several 
peat-bogs. 12 M. Ailly-sur-Noye (Hot. de France), with a church 
partly of the 13th cent., containing a late 15th cent, tomb of Flemish 
workmanship. — 16 M. La Faloise. 

About 13/4 M. to the S.E. (carr. 2 fr.) is FoUeville, with a Church 
(15th cent.) containing the tomb of Raoul de Lannoy (d. 1508), mainly 
by Antonio della Porta, and other interesting sculptures, and a ruined 
Cattle of the same period, the watch-tower of which is still standing. 

The line here traverses a chalky district, belonging to the cal- 
careous system which begins in the Cote-d'Or, forms the Cham- 
pagne district, passes into Picardy, and re-appears in the cliffs of the 
S. coast of England. — 221/2 M. Breteuil-Oare is connected by a 
branch-line, 41/2 M. long, with the small town of Breteuil (2839 in- 
wab. ; Hot. du Commerce). — 261/2 M. Gannes. The railway now 
3uits the basin of the Somme and enters that of the Seine. — 
ql V2 M. St. Just or St. Just-en- Chaussee (Croix d'Or; Cheval Blanc), 
hith 26S7 inhab., is named from its position at the intersection of 
two Roman roads, 

A branch-line runs hence to (iO^/z'M..) La Rue-St-Pierre, where it joins 
the line from Clermont to Beauvais (see p. 24). Local lines run also to 
(141/2 M.) Estriet-St-Dmis (p. 70) and (I2V2 M.) Froissy. — Railway to Cam- 
brat, etc., see R. 8 b. 

401/2 M. Clermont {Hotel St. Andre, Rue d' Amiens 5), a town 
with 5488 inhab. , is beautifully situated on a hill-slope, commanded 
by an ancient donjon, or keep. The Church of St. Samson dates from 
the 14-16th cent, and contains flue stained glass of the 16th cent. 



24 Route 2. AMIKNS. Practical Notes. 

and wood-carviiigs of the 17th century. The interesting Hotel de 
Ville was built in 1320 by Charles IV. le Bel, and restored in 1887 
tho i' branch-railway runs from Clermont to (ITVa M) Benuvais, traversinjl 

(12'/.2 M.) Rochy-Condi (p. 32). — ITi/z M. Beauvais, see p. 33. 
^^.^^°^*J«^br*°<^h'-"°8to (21V2M.)Cowi>i^frne(p.68), via {Vd^li-HL.) Estries- 

451/2 M. Liancourt-Rantigny. Liancourt (Hot. du Chemin-de- 
Fer-du-Nord), 3/^ m. to the E., an industrial town with 3924 in- 
hab., contains the ruined chateau (17th cent.) of the dukes of La- 
^/>^]^^^^^^^^^^^-^^i^riGO\ut and a Statue of Duke Frederic Alexandre 
(1747-1827), member of the Constituent Assembly in 1789, dis- 
tinguished for his philanthropy and for his encouragement of agri- 
culture. In the church are two interesting monuments. 

491/2 M. Creil. Thence to Paris, see pp. 68, 67. 

b. Via Beauvais. 

92 M. Railway in 33/4-51/2 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 70, 11 fr. 30, 7 fr. 30 c). 

On leaving the terminus at Amiens the train skirts the boulevards 
to the S. of the town, passing through two short tunnels and a cutting. 
11/4 M. St. Roch, a suburb of Amiens (see below). Beyond (5 M ) 
Saleux we quit the line to Rouen (see p. 31). — Several small 
stations, including (I41/2 M.) Conty , the fine church of which, 
dating in part from the 15th cent., contains sculptures of the 15th 
and 16th centuries. —251/2 M. Crevecoeur-le-Grnnd (Hot. du Com- 
merce), with merino-manufactures. The railway descends as it pass- 
es from the basin of the Somme into that of the Seine. — 3O1/2 M. 
Oudeuil. — 33 M. St. Omer-en-Chaussee. Line to Le Tre'port, see 
p. 6b. — 39 M. MontmiUe-Fouquenies. Montmille possesses a cur- 
ious church over a crypt, of the 9th and 12th centuries. 41 1/2 M. 
St. Just-des-Marais. The line now descends the right bank of the 
Therain, which it crosses, leaving the lines to Gournay and Gisors 
(p. 35) on the right. 

43 M. Beauvais, and thence to Paris, see pp. 33, 32. 

2. Amiens. 

Railway Stations. Gare du Nord or de Noyon (PI. G, 4: buflfet), the 
chiet station and general terminus for all trains. Gare St. Roch (Pi. C 4) 
to the E., where the lines to Rouen and Beauvais diverge (p. 15 and above)' 

Hotels. -Hotel dd Rhin (PI. b; G, 4), R. from 4, B. IV2, dej. 372! 
D. 4, pens, from 12, omn. 3/^ ^.^ Gk -Hot. de l'Univees (PI. a: G, 4) 
R. from 4 B li/-^ dej. 8, D. 4, pens, from 11, omn. 3/^ fr., both Rue de 
Noyon and Place Rene-Goblet ; *H6t. de France et d^Angletehrk fPl c- 
' ' /^' ^J^^., ^^ ^^ Republique 17, R. from 3, B. 11/2, d^j. 31/2, D. 4,' 
pens, from 12V-2, omn. 3/^ fr. _ Hot. de l'Ecd -de -France (PI. f: G, 4) 
Place Ren^-Goblet 51, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, pen,s. from 10 fr.' 
good; (Je.-Hot. Modeene (PI. g; G 4), Esplanade de Noyon 4, R. from 3, 
a. 1, dej. d, D. 31/2, pens, from 872 fr.; Hot. du Commerce (PI. e; F, 4). 
Rue des Jacobins 32, R. from 3. B. 11/4, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 872, omn 
1/2 fr.; Hot. db Paris (PI. d; G, 4). Rue de Novon 38, dej. 27^, D 3 fr. • 






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History. AMIENS. 2. Route. 25 

•Hot. UK LA Paix (Pi. li^ E, 4), Rue Dumcril 15, R. 2'/2, B. 1, dej or D 3 f r • 
DE RouKN KT DE LA PosTB (PI. i ; E, 3, 4), Rue DumJril 42, R. 2, dej 2'/V 
1). .5, pans. 71/2, oinn. 1/2 fr., commercial; ue la Ckoix- Ulanoue (PI k' 
E, 4), Rue de Beauvaia 44. ' .' 

Re^stauraats at the H6t. de France el d Anglelerre (ijood) aad at several 
other hoteh. — Cafes, Dufournantelle, Rue de^ Trois-Cailloax34, aad others 
iu the same street. 

Gabs. For 1-2 pers., per drive 75 c, per 1/2 hr. 1 fr., per hr. II/2 fr • 
3-4 per.o., 1 fr., 11/4 fr., and 2 fr. ; trunk 25 c. • M-: ir- , 

Tramways (comp. Plan) : 1. From Si. Acheul (comp. Pi. H, 4) to Mon- 
U^ret (comp. PI. A, i) via the Place Gambetta (Ist section) and the church 

'! ^""^^" 1''"'^ •^®'^*-^' 2- ^'^"^^ ''^^ ^«''« ^" ^'>''(i CP'- t^, 4) to the Hippo- 
drome (PI. A, 4) via the Place (iambetta (1st sect ) aad the Rue Fred. Pef,it 
(2nd sjct.); 3. From the Bouleoard de Chdleaudan (comp. PI. D 5) to th- 
Cemetery of La Maddeine (comp. Pi. C, 1) via the Place Gambetu'(lst sect.") 
and the Eole St. Maurice (2nd sect.); 4. From the Oare du JVord (PI G 4) 
to the Place Oamhetla (PI. E, 4) via tho Boul. de Beau/ille (1st sect.) aad 
the cemetery of St. Pierre (comp.^Pl. G, 1; 2nd sect.); 5. From tae Oare 
du Nord to the Place Gambetta via St. Marti a (PI. F, .f) ; 1st sect.) and the 
Rae de la R^publique (museum; 2nd sect.). Fares: 1st clasi 15, 20, and 
-iSc. accord ng to the number of sections; 2ad clais, 10, 15 and 20 c 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3), Place de THotel-de-Ville. Tele- 
grai-h Ofhce also at the Gare du Nord. 

Theatre (PI. F, 4), Rue des Trois-Cailloux 69. — Circus (PI E F 5) 
Place Longueville. ' > "-'i 

■M ^Ro^*" i'^?*?/ du Logis-du-Iioi, in the passage of that name between 
N08. 5;) and 61 Rue des Trois-Cailloux. 

Banks. Banque de France (PI. F, 4), Rue des Jacobins 60; Credit Lyon- 

^'^''-iS^^o ''f/^^'?"'^''' ^''*^^*^ ^" ^'''■^' ^^« ^e,^ Trois-Cailloux 35, 86, 
and 12a: Socu'M Q^nirale, Place Rene-Goblet 5 

Rue^oSorTIi^^*''"''''^ Cera<ra/e, RuedelaRepubliciue 8; Hecquet-D&cobert, 

rt. ^"*i^^ "^''ce- Consul, William SutcUffe. - American Consular Agent, 
binaries lassancourt- 

Pr«<?,^f>^/'r,P^T^^®''T®^°'^ a month, on the first Thurs., in the French 
Pioteitant Church, Rue de Metz 47. French services on Sun. at 11 and 3. 

De.an'i':, Rue'^TNoyon i''"''*' "' ^"'^°^' °^^^ '' «^^^^^^^ ^'^^ ^^ 
Amiens, the ancient capital of Picardy, now that of the depart- 
ment of the Somme, and one of the principal manufacturing towns 
in 1- ranee, with 90,920 inhab. , is situated on the Somme and its 
affluents the Arve and the SelLe. These streams form numerous 
canals m the lower part of the town. The principal manufactures 
are linen, woollen stuffs, silk thread, cashmeres, and velvet The 
central part ot the town is surrounded by handsome boulevards on 
tne site ol the former fortifications. 

tnr.i'"l'''''n '"^ ^'^e^T'^ent Samarobriva, chiof town of the Ambiani cau- 
firs bisLo^'Jnd ^^7««^°^iy ^-^ introduced in 301 by St Firm A, X 
the Confes or » i?t/^'' J^^'' ^."'* "°* ^^ confounded with St. Firmin 
me yontessor, a later bishop. The town suffered severelv from thp in 

uuugiu oack in 14b3 by Loui.s XI ; and in 1597 it was surorized hv tl.P 
trconclud^^'l r' '>f\*^'" ^J ^^"'•^ ^^- I- 1802 thrpSe of Amieo 
In No^ S' he r.^^''° f '^'^,'"; ^'^^' ^"*^^^°' Spain, and Holland. 
whrcrconsistJd ? \ "^*V^^*"^° '■'^*^^ the Battle of Amiens, 

neux to^he F jLl 7^?«^ «* detached engagements at Villers-Breton- 

pf 'f ^:^,; "^li^tt^fi^ srs;;si^dr^j;S.«59T 



26 noute 2. AMIENS. Cathedral. 

On quitting the station (PI. G, 4) we cross the Boulevards, 
•which mark the limits of the old town. Immediately opposite is 
the Rue de Noyon, which we follow to the Place Rene- Goblet (PI. F, 
G, 4), formerly Place St. Denis, embellished with a bronze statue 
of Ducange (p. 25), by Caudron. Farther on is the Rue des Trois- 
Oailloux (p. 28). 

The Rue Victor-Hugo leads from the Place Rene-Goblet to the 
right, passing the modern Palais de Justice (PI. F, 3, 4), to the — 
*Catliedral (PL F,3), one of the most imposing Gothic churches 
in Europe. The present building was begun in 1220 on the site of 
an older cathedral destroyed by lire about 1218, the chief architects 
being Robert de Luzarches, Thomas de Cormont, and his son Re- 
gnault. The nave and facade were completed in 1236, the ambula- 
tory and radiating chapels in 1247, the apse in 1269, while the side- 
chapels were added between 1292 and about 1375. Length 475 ft., 
length of transept 230 ft., width of nave 105 ft. The heaviness 
of the building , which is on three sides masked by unsightly 
houses, is insufiiciently relieved by the lofty and extremely slender 
spire over the transept, 370 ft. in height, re-erected in 1529. The 
two towers of the W. fagade, completed long after the rest of the 
building, belong respectively to the 14th and early 15th cent., the 
former being 213 ft., the latter 216 ft. in height, but like the central 
spire they are too small for the edifice. The cathedral was restored |j 
by Viollel-le-Duc. — The tower over the transept may be ascended 
(apply to the keeper under the W. porch of the facade). 

The *Facade contains three lofty recessed porches, richly adorned . 
with reliefs and statues, formerly painted and gilded. -In front of the four 
piers are the twelve Minor Prophets. In the tympanum above the central 
door (Porte du Saaveur) is a relief of the Last Judgment; 150 statues in 
the vaulting represent the celestial liierarchy, while the large statues on 
each side are the Apostles and the four Major Prophets. The doors of this 
central porch are separated by the ^Beau Dieu d''Afniens\ an admirable 
figure of the Saviour, holding the Gospels in his left hand and bestowing 
a blessing with his right, while he tramples under foot a lion and a dragon. 
At the sides are the Wise and the Foolish Virgins; beneath the Apostles 
is a double row of medallions representing the virtues and thevice^; and 
beneath the Prophets scenes referring to their lives and prophecies. — The 
right doorway (Porte de la Mere-Dieu) is ornamented in a similar way; 
above the doors, the Entombment, Assumption, and Coronation of the Virgin, 
beneath, a figure of the Virgin, and still lower, Adam and Eve ; on the 
right side, the Annunciation, the Visitation, and the Presentation; on the 
left side, the Magi, Herod, Solomon, and the Queen of Sheba; below, 
Biblical scenes. — The left porch is dedicated to St. Firmin, the first bishop 
of Amiens. In the tympanum, the Invention and Translation of the relics 
of the saint; between the doors, a figure of St. Firming at the sides, others 
saints of the district. The medallions represent the signs of the zodiac 
and employments suitable for each month. — The portals are surmounted 
by beautiful gables, on the central one of which is a modern figure of an 
angel. Above are a handsome gallery, a row of niches containing twenty- 
two colossal statues of kings of France, a magnificent rose-window 38 ft. 
in diameter, and (at the top) a gallery connecting the towers. 

The S. AND N. SiDKS of the cathedral, which resemble each other 
in treatment, deserve attention also. The S.W. door is known as the 



Cathedral. AMIENS. 2. Route. 27 

Porte de I'Horloge or Porte de St. Chrlstophe, from the adjoining 
colossal statue of St. Christopher. Of the statues on the exterior of 
the chapels of the nave the best are those representing the An- 
nunciation (3rd chap.), St. Nicholas (4th chap.), and the Trans- 
figuration (5th chap.). The elaborate sculptures that embellish the 
door of the S. Transept (Porte de la Vierge Dor^e or Porte St. Honore) 
date, with the exception of the large statues at the sides, from the 
close of the 12th century. In the tympanum are the Apostles and 
the Life of St. Honors, bishop of Amiens ; in the vaulting, angels 
and scenes from the Old Testament, etc. ; and at the sides two 
angels and six unidentified personages. Between the doors is the 
beautiful Vierge Doree. The rose-window above the porch represents 
a 'wheel of fortune'. — The porch of the N. Transept, the Porte 
St. Firmin le Confesseur, is simpler than the others. Among the 
figures on the exterior of the nave-chapels on the N. side are those 
of St. Louis (before 1302), Charles V. of France and his two sons, 
two cardinals, John the Baptist, and St. Firmin (about 1375). 

The 'Interior consists of nave, transepts, aisles, and choir, all tlanked 
with chapels. The fine nave rises to the very unusual height of 139 ft., being 
surpassed in this respect by the cathedral of Beauvais alone. The vaulting 
is borne by 126 remarkably bold columns. Above the nave is a Triforium . 
Over the main portal and in the transepts are magnificent rose-windows. 

Nave. By the first two pillars in the 8. aisle are the tombs of two 
janons (d. 1504 and 1652). The monuments of the two bishops (d. 1222 
and 1236) who founded the church, on each side of the third bay in the 
nave, are tine works in bronze of the 13th 'century. The 2nd chapel in 
the S. aisle contains a St. Christopher, by Dupuis, and in the following 
two are an Annunciation and an Assumption by Blasset(17th cent.). — The 
N. aisle also contains works by Blasset, inclading a tomb and (in the 
2nd and 3rd chapels) two statues of the Madonna. In the 4th chapel is a 
very antique figure of Christ (known as 'St. Sauve'), freely retouched in 
the 18th century. 

South Transept. The High Reliefs here, representing scenes from the 
life of St. James the Great, date from the beginning of the 16th century. 
Below are small marble bas-reliefs, with the names of members of the 
Confrerie du Puy Noti-e-Dame, a society founded for the encouragement 
of literature and art. Opposite is the former chapel of the Confrerie, 
containing an altar by BUisset (1627) with an altar-piece (Assumption) by 
Fr. Francken the Younger. Above is a representation of the Madonna 
rescuing a child from a well. 

Choir. Six marble steps ascend to the present choir-entrance (1761), 
which replaces a choir-screen removed in 1755. Beside the wnught-iron 
rauliiig, by .lean Veyren, surname! Vivarais, are marble statues of St. Vincent 
de Paul (1832) and San Cirlo Borromeo (1755), placed here in 1832. The 
beautifully carved '''O/wr /S<a«s (apply to the verger; 50 c.), 119 in namber, 
were executed in 1503-19 by Arnould Boulin, Alexandre Haet. Antoine 
Avernier, and other local artists. There are no fewer than 3650 figures, 
the finest bcing_ those on the hand-rails of the steps. The subjects, 400 in 
number, are chiefly Scriptural, but various worldly occupations and scenes 
are represented also. The pyramidal ornaments above the stalls are 40 ft. 
high. — The gilded wrought-iron screens between the pillars of the 
sanctuary date from 1751-68. — The exterior of the choir-screen is adorned 
with coloured and gilded *H'igii Reliefs (restored in 1838), representing, 
on the N. side, the history of .John the Baptist (1531), on the S. side, the 
life^of St. Firmin (p. 28). Below are the tombs of ecclesiastics of the 
15 I7th centuries. — The first of the radiating chapels contains Eight 
Sibyls and other paintings of the early 16th century. Some of the stained- 



28 Route 2. AMIENS. 



Musie de Picardie. 



glass windowa in this and the ottier chapels date from the 13tii cent • 
the beat are iu tlic J.ady Chapel in the centre. — Opp .aiie, ihe Lady 
Chapel, behind the high-alur, is the tomb of Canon Lucas, with the -Enfant 
Pleureur\ a much-admired but overrated marble augel l)y lilasset (1628). 
North Transept. To the left of the door is the font, with the iiguren 
of four prophets, dating f ro u about 118 J. The High Relief. -i here, resem- 
bling tUose in the S. transept, represent the Expulsion of tiie money- 
changers. Opposite is the chapel of St. debastixn, by Blasset (1634 35). , Tne 
tombs of Gresset (p. 25) and Cardinal Hemart de lienDiiville (d. 1540)' also 
are in this transept. — Comp. John Ruskin, The Bible of Amiens. 

At the back of the church rises a mediocre statuejin bronze of 
Peter the Hermit (PI. F, 3), or Pierre of Amiens (see p. 25). 

The Rue Robert-de-Luzarches, beginning opposite the S. portal 
of the Cathedral and passing the Palais de Justice (p. 26), leads 
back to the Rw. des TroU-CaiUouc, the busiest street in^the town, 
with the best shops, the Theatre (PI. F, 4j 1778-80), the Halle au 
Ble (PL F, 4), and the Passage de la Renaissance (Pi. F, .-}, 4). At 
the W. end of the Rue des Trois-Cailloux is the Place Gambetta 
(PI. E, 3, 4), in which is a clock tower in wrought iron and bronze, 
by Em. Ricquier and Alb. Roze (1897). 

The Rue de la Republique leads hence to the left to the boule- 
vards, passing near the Church of St. Remi (PI. E, 4), which has 
been under restoration since 1890. The choir and transepts are in the 
Gothic style of the 13th century. Farther on, on the right, is the — 

*Musee de Picardie (PI. E, 4), a handsome building erected in i 
1855-69, containing collections of antiquities, sculptures, and paint- * 
ings. Admission free on Sun. (11-4 or 5), Tues., and Thurs. (12-4 
or 5); on other days on application. Catalogue (1899), 1 fr. 

Ground -Floor. — Room I, to the right of the entrance, a kind of 
Chapel, painted and gilded in the Romrnesque style, contains sculptures of 
the middle ages and the Renaissance, and has some good stained glass of 
the loth and 16th centuries. 

Room II (Oalerie Lapidaire) contains Roman and other antiquities; 
sculptures i wood-carvings 5 porcelain; furniture; tapestry; monks' heads 
carved in wood (Nos. 90, 89, 87), etc. — Rooms III and IV: Rjman and 
Gallo-Roman antiquities, including a statue of Diana. — Room V: Sculp- 
tures: 24. Crauk, Satyr; 14. Caudron, Archimedes. — Room VI: Merovingian 
and foreign antiquities. — Room VII: Greek antiquities. 

Room VIII (Sculpture Oallery). nx the middle: 18. Chretien, Follower 
of Bacchus (bronze); 6i. Loison, The Soul; no number, Guittet, African 
water-carrier; 08. Lescorn^, Clytie ; 47. Lange Ouglielmo, Giotto; 26. BampL 
End of a dream; 17. GhabrU, A child's reverie; 81. Roulleau, Leda; 66. 
^(^e(, Hesitation; no number, Roze, Resurrection. Opposite, as we return: 
59. L&v&que, Amazon; (i3. Loison, Daphnis aad Nais; 4S. Guillaume, Bona- 
parte. On the entrance- wall: No number, Fott^, Monument of Leon Du- 
vauchel; 12. Caudron, Amphitheatre at Aries (bronze-relief j. Against the wall 
and opposite tUe windows: 19. CUsinger, Leda; 28. DelabrUre, Panther and ^ 
heron; 11 . Ringel (Tlllzach, March ofRakoczy (terracotta); 76. Renoir, Eve. 
On the wall facing the entrance: 44. Franceschi, Head ot Christ (wax); 79. 
Rodin, Children's games. — At the foot of the staircase in the vestibule: 
02. Le P^re, Faun hunting (bronze); 25. Cugnot, Corybante drowning the 
cries of the infant Jupiter (bronze). 

Central Saloon. Paintings. From right to left: '143. Hireau, Rising 
storm; 262. Schneiz, Miracle; *199. Maignan, Dante meeting Matilda. — No 
number, Roybet, Duke of Orbinio; 41. Boucher, Crocodile-hunt (1739). — 
7. Bachelier, Bear-hunt; 189. Le Poiltevi7i, Shipwrecked; 91. Demont- Breton, 



Musee de Picordie. AMIENS. 2. Route. 29 

Mill; 106. Carolut-Duran, A Sudanese; 166. Laireste, AIlegLOrical portrait 
(1671; Duchess of Cleves?); 133. Granet, St. Louis freeing the prisoners at 
Damietta; ?4. David, Countess Dillon; *253. Salmson, Arrest in Picardy; 
126. G^rdrne, The Augustan age; 8. Bachelier, African Hon; 64. Canaktto ('/)^ 
Venice. — 2^8. C. Vanloo, Bear-hunt. — 371. Flemish School (17th cent.), 
Drinker; 10. Baudry. St. John the Baptist; no number, Aoache, The aged 
conQueror; above, 316. Ziegler, Peace of Amiens; beyond the door, no 
number, Henver^ Woman asleep; 255. Sautai^ Fra Angelic; no number, 
Fantin-Lalour, Figures in a wood; above, 299. H. Vernei, Massacre of the 
Mamelukes at Cairo in 1811; Collet, 60. Spring, 61. Summer. — 183. J. Le- 
febrre, Laughing girl; 289. C. Fan^oo, Ostrii h-hunt. — 198. l/at^wan, Voices 
of the tocsin; *180. J. Lefebvre, Lady Godiva; 86. Dawant, Rescue from a 
wreck; 116. Fragonard, Open-air dinner; no number, J. Lefebvre. Nymph 
hunting. — Quentin de la Tour, '174. Portrait of the artist (ca. I7f0), no 
number. Study; 284, Tocqui, Portrait of Cochin; 40. Boucher, Leopard-hunt. 
— 19H. Lhermitte, Death and the woodcutter; 37. Boqvei, For the processic n; 
129. Glaize, The reefs of life; 19. Benner, Sleeping girl. 

First Floor. — The staircase is adorned with allegorical mural •Paint- 
ings by Puvit de Chavannes ('Ludus pro Patria"; 'Toil and Rest'). — The 
Salle du Dome is adorned with a ceiling-painting (France crowning dis- 
tinguished natives of Picardy) and various paintings in monochrome, by 
F41. Barrias. Puvis de Chavannes has embellished the adjoining rooms with 
allegorical paintings. 

KooM I (on the left side) contains curious old paintings of the "Amiens 
School of the 15th and IGlh Gent., presented to the Confr^rie du Puy Notre 
Dame (p. 27) by its annual presidents, and bearing quaint titles in old 
French: 322. 'Tree bearing the fruit of eternal life' (1499); then five paint- 
ings (1518-25) in their original fine frames; 325. 'Rock whence issues the 
fountain of living water' (1566); 327. 'Soil whence truth takes its birth" 
(1601); 328. 'Sacred fire preserved in the holy welF (1617); etc. —329. 
Burning bush; 331-334. Panels (15th cent.); 330. Bearing of the Cross; 
335-337. Triptych (16th cent.); no number, Panel (15th cent.). Sevres vase; 
old tapestry. 

Room II. French school of the 18th and 19th centurie?. 244. Eestoui, 
Alexander on the sick-bed. — No number, Makart, Bacchanal : Michel, 208! 
St. Augustin, 207. Christ the source of life. — 186. Lehottx, St. John the 
Baptist; 206. Meynier, CEdipus as a child; 44. L. de Boulogne, Augustus 
closing the Temple of J?nus; 16. Bellangi, Return from Flba; 286. Tropon, 
Park of St. Cloud; 311. Watelet, Landscape. — 272. Suv4e, Tancred wounded. 
Room III (on the left). From right to left: 24. Binet, Landscape; 42. 
Bonlanger, Caesar at the Rubicon; 138. Gueldry. Maceration of metals; 298. 
C-Vernet, Greek horseman combatting a lion: 69. Chintreuil, The moon; 
141. Gvillemet, St. Suliac. — 146. Hesse, Mirabeau announcing the refusal of 
Jlje States General to obey the King's order for a dissolution (June 25th, 
1789). — 25'<. H. Scheffer, Vision of Charles TX.; several good landscapes; 
no number, Henri Martin. Inspiration; 266. Sinibaldi, Manon Lescaut; 218 
Muller, lady Macbeth; 49. Breton, The spring; 214. Monvoisin, Joan the 
Mad, queen of Castile-; *5f>. Cabanel, Death of Francesca da Rimini; 242. 
Benoiif, Ind of the day; 140. Guiaud, Antwerp cathedral; 274. Tattegrain 
The Mourners of Staples; ViO. Glaize the Younger, Athenian fugitives; no 
numbers, Tattegrain, The old musician, J. Lefebvre, Vestal virgin. — 312. 
De Winter, During the 'neuvaine' (a devotional act lasting nine days); 112. 
Ferrter, Mothers cursing war; no numbers. Bourgeois, With the Chouans, 
Mme. Vxrginie Demont- Breton, Seamen. — The adjoining Cabinet contains 
engravings. 

^oAo" '^" ^^■^- ^"^ff^o^s^ Diana and Endymion; 245. Restout, Last Sup- 
per; 30,1 Vincent, Henri IV and Sully at the bottle of Ivrv. — Room V: 
ii^. Danbigny Dunes of St. Quentin; 285. De Troy, The" Virgin asleep; 
./. f^efebvre 181. Sophocles, 182. Coriolanus and Tullus: 209. P. Molyn, 
fMorm; 318 Zuler, Ihe past of Versailles: 25. Blanchard, Landscape: 6. 
of/,/'"' ^''"^<^'''^^ amusements; 302. Vincent, Arria and Patus. — Room VI- 
ai MomhahUn, Burial of Moses. This room also contains a collection of 
medals. — Room VII: S5. Bonnegrdce, Bashfuluess vanquished by love; 



30 Route i\ AMIENS, Musce de Picardie. 

101, 102. Dubu/e, Sacred and Profane Music ^ 276. TaUegrain, FisLerman ; 
no number, Maillard ^ Last resources; 154. Jac(]nand ^ Condemnation of 
Galileo; no number, /''. Fourbus the Younger^ '^iueen Marie de Midicis. — 
Room VllI: LagrenU^ 165. Venus batliing, 164. Venus and Cupid; •278. 
Teniers, Quack; 373. Flemish School, Village fair; 295, 2'J6. Verditr, I\Iyth()lo- 
gical .--cenos; 47. Boudewt/ns and Bouts, Seaport; 50. ' Velvef Brueghd, Flemish 
feast; *306, '='807. Van'dtr Vlitt, P >rtraiis of a Dutchman and his wife; 
J)e La/osse, 162. The Virgin suckling the Holy Child. 163. Jacob and Lahan; 
45. Le Valentin (J. de Boulongne), The passii ns; i45. Eerrera the Eldei\ 
Miracle of the loaves. — 27. Bloemaert^ St. Monica; 51. Bril, Landscape; 
231. Piero delta Francesco {'i), Madonna and Child; *30o. Vivarini, Holy Fa- 
mily; 235. Pourbvt {!), The five senst^s; 156. Jordaens, Christ appearing to 
Mary Magdalen; 319. Zurbarari {'/), St. Catharine of Siena. — Room IX: 
308. Vollon, Monkey; 121. Gambart, Pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Valery ; 
261. Schnelz, Sack of Aquileia by Attila; 2o9. Van Schendel, M;iry Magdalen; 
250. 0. Roussd, The body of Gen. Marceau given to the French army; 36. 
BoQuef, The Herbillonnes; 217. J/ozin, Shipv/reck; 115. Foucaucourt, Banks 
oftheSomme; 283. TAwt'^Wer, Via Tiburtina; 139. Onirie, Empress Etip^nie 
visiting the cholera patients at Amiens in 18H6; 15. Becker, Orestes and 
the Furies; 57. Cabat, Good Samaritan; 273. Sylvestre, Nero and Locusta; 
63. Caminade, Death of the Virgin; 39. Boucher, Venus demanding:? arms 
for iEneas from Vulcan; 17. Bellangi, Waterloo; 200. Martinelli, Susanna 
and the Elders; 222. Parrocel, Cavalry skirmish; 76. Coypel, Sacrifice to 
Jupiter; 132. Goyet, Council of war; 70. Cibot, Charity presiding over a 
union of the different bodies of state; 52. G. Brion^ The christening-day. — 
Room X: 185 Rob. Lefhvre, Louis XVni ; 9. Barillot, Ponds; 119. Franquelin, 
Jesus raising the daughter of .Tairus; 219. Nattier, Portrait of Gresset the 
poet; 100. Dubois'Drahonet, Duchess of Berry; 291. /. B. Vuhloo, Louis XV; 
137. Gui, Last si^h of Christ. 

Room XI, parallel to R. X, contains ihe^'Galerie Lavalard, a collection 
of works (mostly small) by the old masters, including several interesting; 
examples. From right to left, as we enter from R. IX : Landscapes and 
genre-scenes of the Dutch school; *243. Ribera, The mass of Pope Gregory; 
above, 95, ?,G. Fr. Hals, Portraits. — '6 (opposite), A. Cuyp, Family in a 
landscape; 8. J.G. Cuyp, Portrait; 71. Van Arihois, Landscape; 245. Ribera, 
St. Francis of Assisi; 3. Brekelenkam, Cobbler; 45. S. van Rupsdatl. Land- 
scape; 100. Jordaens, Game' and vegetable dealer; 230. »S'. Rosa, Landscape; 
246. Ribera, St. John the Baptist; 227. Tintoretto, Susanna at the bath; *13, 
12, 14. Van Goyen. Sea-pieces; 38, 39. S. van Ruysdael, Landscapes; 108. 
Snyders, Game and fruit, etc.; 10. Flinck, Portrait; 244. Ribera, Plato; 
92, 93. Fyt, Game; 36. Pynacker, Sea-piece; 57. Jan Victors, Interior; 9. 
Everdingen, Landscape ; 247. Velazquez (?), Portrait; 166. Largilliere, Portrait; 
23. Lingelbach. Brigands on the watch. — 110 (farther on), Snyders, Game 
and fruit. — The glass-cases contain medals, assignats, and various 
souvenirs. — At the end of the gallery next the staircase is another Cabinet 
with engravings. 

Opposite the Museum is the Prefecture (18th cent.). A little 
farther on, on the right, is the Bibliotheque Commiinale (PI. E, 4), 
containing ca. 80,000 a/o1s. and 1462 MSS. (adm. daily, except on 
holidays, 1-6; in winter 8-10 p.m. also). 

The Rue de la Re'puhlique ends at the Place Longueville (PL 
E, 5; circus, see p. 25), whence the Boulevard du Mail (PI. F, 4) 
leads to the left towards the Gare du Nord. 

In the Rue Duthoit, close by on the N., is a monument, known as 
the llliistrationa Picardes (PL F, 4), consisting of a figure of Picardy, sur- 
rounded with statues and busts of eminent natives of that province. 

In the opposite direction the boulevards lead to the extensive 

Promenade de la Hotoie (PI. A, B, C, 2, 3), at the W. end of the 

town, where public festivals occasionally take place. 



miel de Ville. AMIENS. 2. Route. 31 

From the Promenade the Rue de la Hotoie (PI. D, 3; tramway) 
leads directly towards the centre of the town, ending at the Place 
St. Firmin. To the left of this square, at the foot of the Rue de 
Conde', is the Hotel Morgan^ an interesting private mansion of the 
end of the 15th century. Farther on is the Jardin des Plantes (PI. 
E, 2), which is open to the public. — The Rue au Lin, leading 
straight on from the Place St. Firmin, brings us to the Beffroi (PI. 
E, 3), an eccentric edifice of 1748 on a much older base (restored in 
1865), with a bell weighing 11 tons. — The church of St. Oermain 
(PI. E, 3), lying somewhat to the left, dates from the 15th cent., 
and has a tine tower leaning slightly to the N., a carved portal of 
the 16th cent., and a St. Sepulchre of 1506. 

The belfry rises immediately behind the Hotel de Ville (PI. E, 3j, 
lately enlarged and almost entirely rebuilt. The peace of Amiens 
(see p. 25) was signed here. — In a court to the W. of the Hotel 
de Ville is the fine Facade of the Bailliage (1541). 

In the Rue Vergeaux (Nos. 57 59; Mahon du Sagitlaire) and the Rue 
des Sergents (No. 57), both running to iho, N. from the Place Gambetta 
(p. 28), are several interesting old houses. Farther to the N. (tramway) 
lies the 'Basse Ville\ intersected by numer( us arms of the Somme, and 
containing the church of St. Leu (PI. F, 2) and the E6tel Dieu (PI. E, F, 2; 
i6-18th cent.). — To the W, extend the Hortillonages (PI. G, 1, 2), a curious 
region of market-gardens, irrigated from the Somme. 

From Amikns to Rouen (and Le Havre), 72V2M., railway in 1V4-3V4 hrs. 
(fares 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 75 c). — The train follows the line to 
Reauvais as far as (5 M.) Saleux (p. 24). — 191/2 M. Poix (Hdtel du Cardinal)., 
a prettily situated little town, has a Gothic cliurch of the 15-16th cent., 
with a richly sculptured interior. — 311/2 M. Abancourt (buffet) is the 
junction for Le Treport (see p. 35). — 4OV2 M. Gaillefontaine (hotels) has 
a l.Sth cent, church. — 441/2 M. Serqueux (huffet) is the junction for the 
line from Paris to Pontoise and Dieppe (p. 126). 5OV2M. Sommery. Tunnel, 
1625 yds. long. 56 M. Montirolier-Buchy., from which there is a branch to 
Clares, Motteville, and Le Havre (p. 146). 70 M. Darnetal (Croix Blanche)., 
an industrial place with C920 inhab., prettily situated in a little vallev. 
Near the Hotel de Ville is the Tour de Carville, a handsome belfry of 
1612-14. — Fine view of Rouen to the right. — 721/2 M. Rouen (Gare du Nord), 
see p. 128. 

Fkom Amiens (St. Roch) to Aumale (p. 35), 35 M., narrow-gauge line 
in 21/2-31/4 hrs., traversing a wool-manufacturing district. 

From Amiens to Boulogne and Calais., see R. 1; to Arras., Doitai, Valen- 
ciennes, etc.. see R. 5; to Doullens, St. Pol, etc., see pp. 23, 22; to Chdlons- 
snr-Marne (Bale) via Rheims, see R. 9. 

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers). 

I. From Paris to Beauvais. 

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont. 

49 M. Railw.-vy in 11/3-8 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). 

Trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. B, C, 23, 24). See also the Map, 

?A h T 'nc ^^ '^rdport by this route, II31/2 M., in 8-61/2 hrs. (fares 20 fr. 

W, Id fr. 515 c, 9 fr.). — (Omnibuses plv from the station at Le Trdport 

to Mers (30 c). 

The through-trains do not stop before Montsoult or Beaumont; 
for details as far as Beaumont, see Baedeker'n Handbook to Paris. 



32 Route 3. BEAUMONT From Paris 

161 'i M. Montsoult^ junction for Luzarches. The line now de- 
scends a pictiiresqiie valley and intersects a portion of the Forest of 
Carnelle. To the right is seen the magniflcent modern Chateau of 
Frnnconville. — Beyond (21 M.) Nointel the train crosses the Oise 
and joins the line from Paris via Pontoise (p. 128). 

2H M. Persan-Benumont. Persan is an industrial village to the 
left. Beaumont-sur-Oise [Hotel des Quatre-Fils-Aymon), a town 
with 4089 inhab., on the left bank of the Oise, is dominated by an 
interesting church of the 13th cent, and a ruined chateau. 

From Heaumont to Creil, iSV'i M., railway ascending the valley of 
the (lise. — 9'/'2 M. St. Leu-rPEsserejit, the conspicuous church of which is 
chiefly of the 12th century. The largest of its three towers is Romanesque. 
— 131/2 M. Creil, see p. TS. — In the opposite direction this line runs 
via Vafmondois to (I2V2 M.) Pontoise (p. 1!?8). A narrow-gauge line also runs 
from Beaumont to (20 M.) Hermes (see below). 

251/2 M. C/iam6Zt/, with an abbey-church (13th cent. ; to the right). 
Several small stations. 33M. Meru (Hot. du Centre), a prettily-situated 
town with 54C6 inhabitants. The whole of this district is engaged 
in the manufacture of buttons, brushes, and fancy turnery. — 
371/2 M. Laboissiere-le -Deluge. The train now passes through 
a tunnel, nearly 1 M. long, and descends the picturesque valley of 
the Thernin. Beyond (461/2 M.) Villers - sur - There we cross the 
Therain, and the imposing cathedral of Beauvais soon comes into 
sight on the right. — 49 M. Beauvais .^ see p. 33. 

b. Via Chantilly and Creil. 

541/2 M. Railway (as above) in 2-23/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 
35 c). — To Le Tv^port by this route, 119 M., in ^^Iz-l^ji hrs. (fares as above). 

From Paris to (32 M.) Creil, see R. 11 a. On leaving Creil the 
train returns for a short distance in the direction of Paris, then 
enters the valley of the Therain to the right, and crosses the river 
several times. — 33^/2 M. Montataire (7141 inhab.) is commanded 
by a handsome church of the 12-13th cent, and a chateau of the 
15tb century. — 36 M. Cramoisy^ in the neighbourhood of which 
are extensive quarries of building-stone. — ^l^/oM.Cires-les-Mello. 
The chateau of Mello., on a hill to the % dates from the 18th cent- 
ury. — 39 M. Balagny-Saint-Epin. 

41 M. Mouy-Bury. Mouy (Hot. des Voyageurs; Central), to the 
left, is a cloth-making town with 3454 inhab. ; Bury, to the right, 
has a priory-church of the ll-13th centuries. — 44 M. Heilles- 
Movchy. 

The fine chateau of Mouchy-le-Chdlel., IV2 M. to the left, dates from the 
period of the Renaissance. Tt contains some fine portraits and other paint- 
ings, sculptures by Pajou, Houdon, Carpeaux, etc., and a valuable library. 

46 m. Hermes (railway to Beaumont, see above). — 47 M. Villers- 
St-Sepulcre^ so called from a St. Sepulchre in the church, enclosing 
a slab from the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Ruined priory of the 
11th century. — 50 M. Rochy-Condc. Branch to Clermont (Soissons, 
Compiegne) and St. Just, see p. 24. On the hillside to the left is 







* ^^^^ Gare 




(Tra\'f^ et irnpnm^ pai 



to Le Treport. BEAUVAIS. 3. Route. 33 

the Chdteau of Merlemont ^ partly of the 16th century. — The 
church of (52 M.) Therdonne has a fine Gothic choir. 

54 V2 M. Beauvais (buffet). —Hotels. Be France et d'Anglktekre 
(PI. a; B, 5), Rue de la Manufacture 16, near the station, R. 2V2-4 B 1 
ddj. 3, D. 3, pens. 9-10, omn. V2 fr.; Continental (P]. b: C, 4), Place de 
I'H6tel-de-Ville 37, R. from 21/2, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 9 
omn. i/'2 fr.^ de l'Ecu, Rue de Malherbe 26; de la Gabe, pens. 6V2 fr ' 
unpretending. — Cafes. Bu Chalet, Potard, Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville — 
Cabs. 1 pers. per drive 75 c, each arldit. pers. 25 c. up to IV2 fr ; per hr 
1-2 pers. 11/2 fr., 3 pers. 2 fr., 4 pers. 2V2 fr. — Post & Telegraph Office 
(PI. C, 3), Rue Jean- de-Lignie res. 

Beauvais, an ancient manufacturing town on the Therain, with 
20,248 inhab., is the capital of the department of the Oise and the 
seat of a bishop. Carpets, woollen cloths, military cloth, gold and 
silver lace, buttons, and brushes are among the chief manufactures. 

Beauvais occupies the site of the ancient capital of the Bellovaci sub- 
dued by Cfi^sar. Fortified in 1190 by Philip Augustus, the town defied the 
attack of Edward III. in 1346; but about 1420 it was placed in the hands 
of the English by its bishop, Pierre Cauchon. In its gallant resistance 
to Charles the Bold and his army of 80,000 men in 1472 the women of 
Beauvais especially distinguished themselves by their courage, and one'of 
them, Jeanne Laine or 'Hacbette' by name, captured with her own hands 
a hostile banner, now preserved in the Hotel de Ville. The event is still 
annually celebrated on the Sun. nearest St. Peter's day (June 29th). 

In coming from the station (PI. D, 5) we pass the square in 
front of the Octroi, and turn to the left by the Avenue de la Re'- 
publique and the Rue de la Manufacture. A little to the left is the 
Manufactory of Tapestry (PI. B, C, 5), founded in 1664, i.e. only 
two years after the state-factory of the Gobelins at Paris, of which it 
is the only branch. Visitors are admitted to the small museum and 
the workshops (more interesting) daily, except Sun., 12-4.' 

'*J}^^ Beauvais establishment chiefly makes tapestry for furniture, adorned 
with landscapes, flowers, ornamental designs, animals, and pastoral scenes, 
and occasionally with historical or mythological subjects. Beauvais tapestrv 
^?"^ *l°™ Gobelins in being woven on low-warp (basse lice) looms, in 
which the warp-threads are horizontal, while Gobelins is woven on hieh- 
warp (haute lice) looms, with vertical warp-threads. An area of 4>/2 sq 
inches 18 the average daily task of a good workman. The visitor who has 
prev'ously seen only faded old tapestry will be struck with the beauty and 
ZT^f-T. . ^^ ""f' 7v" ^°*^ *^^ delicacy of the shading, each distinct 
hue being represented by twenty-four different shades. Silk is sometimes 
hfJ.^ J-epresenting flowers, fruit, and metallic lustre, but the whole of 
Th jr^c i "^"""^ '^ ''' '^°^^^' *^^ <^«^o^^s of w^Jch are more durable. 

arP «n ^n.^L''nr'^'.''° ''°^°' ^°'' *^^ ^'^^^^^ "^ Originality, as the works 
are an copies of pictures or cartoons. 

The C/mrcJ of St. Stephen (PI. B, 5), farther on, an edifice 
01 the 12th, Idth, and 16th cent., exhibits a curious blending of 
Romanesque (nave) and Gothic (choir). It has a large W. tower and 
a line rose-window in the N. transept. 

aGo\Mc^c^n;>nv^^n^V^'''^^^P^"r ^0° *^^ "Sht is a Mater Dolorosa under 

fh^ nfiia f °''Py v,^° the right aisle, Crucifixion of a saint (12th cent.): on 

he fiir.>r«!f;i *^' ^^i'-'.e^gl^t small paintings on panel (16th cent.); °n 

•Wlon th?tfr«'^v"^^*' \??«dern Mater Dolorosa; in the second 

•Ed V«i n 4. if'-'' ^T ^^?^ *''°*-)- ^«°^ ^*"l""e and 16th cent. 
oiatnea uiatt in the choir and ambulatory. 

Baedeker's Northern France. 5th Edit. Q 



34 Route 3. BEAUVAIS. From Paris 

Turning to the riglit as we quit the church, we soon reach tlie 
Rue St. Jean, whicli leads, past several old timber houses (e.g. No. 8), 
to the picturesque Place de V Hotel-de- Ville (PI. B, C, 4), embellished 
with a bronze statue of Jeanne Ilachette (p. 33), by Vital Dubray. 
The Hotel de Ville (PI. B, 4; 18th cent.) has its council-chamber 
adorned with five paintings from the history of the town, by D. Maillart. 
To the';right, in the court, is the Library (open on Sun. & Thurs. 
1-4, Wed. & Frid. 8-9 p.m. ; closed in Sept.), containing 30,000 vols, 
and 178 MSS., and Jeanne Hachette's banner (restored in 1851). 

The *Cathedral (St. Pierre; PI. B, 3), to the N.W., though con- 
sisting merely of a choir and transepts, ranks as one of the finest 
Gothic buildings in France. Its proportions are gigantic to the verge 
of temerity. The exterior height, to the ridge, is 223 ft. ; the vaulting, 
which has twice fallen in because the pillars and buttresses were 
too weak and too few, rises 158 ft. above the pavement, while an 
open-work spire which soared above the crossing to the giddy height 
of 500 ft., fell in 1573 because it was unstayed on the W., through 
the absence of a nave. 

Begun in 1227 the works went on, with interruptions, until after 1578. 
The choir was perhaps designed by Eudes de Montreuil^ the architect of 
St. Louis 5 the N. portal was erected at the expense of Francis I. hy Mar- 
tin Chambiges, who worked also at Sens and Troyes; the S. portal is due to 
Michel Lalye. The *5. Portal (1548), excelling the entire facades of many 
other cathedrals both in size and magnificence, has unfortunately been 
stripped of its statues, though it is still richly adorned with carving. It is 
surmounted by a double open arcade, a large rose-window, and a fine 
gable, while it is strengthened by two buttresses in the form of turrets. 
The carved oaken "Doors., by Jean le Pot., rank among the finest in existence. 
The N. Portal (1537), though not rivalling the other, is also rich; its carved 
doors, also by Jean le Pot., are in better preservation. . 

Interior. The beauty of the Choir has given rise to the saying that 
'the choir of Beauvais, the nave of Amiens, the portal of Rheims, and the 
towers of Chartres would together make the finest church in the world'. 
The piers that have been added for the sake of strengthening the building 
are easily distinguished. The choir is upwards of 120 ft. long, and its 
windows are 55 ft. in height. 'There are few rocks, even among the Alps', 
says Ruskin in his '■Seven Lamps of Architecture'' ., 'that have a clear vertical 
fall as high as the choir of Beauvais'. The ambulatory is fringed with Chap- 
els. The first on the right is adorned with a modern fresco by A. Grel- 
let, representing .Teanne Hachette capturing the banner. To the left of 
the choir is the Sacristy, adjoining which are a marble statue of Cardinal 
Forbin Janson, by iV. Cousiou (1738), a Clock of the 16th cent., and two 
Tapestries (16th cent.), probably made at Beauvais, representing the fabulous 
origin of France, from R^nsard s 'La Franciade'. Another tapestry of this 
series, one of 1460, and eight others of the 17th cent., after Raphael's cartoons, 
are displayed in the transepts. The stained glass in the chapel of the N. 
transept is by Engrand le Prince (1522). In the left choir-chapel is a 
modern ''Astronomical Clock., 39 ft. Ligh, 20 ft. broad, and 9 ft. deep; it is , 
composed of 90,000 pieces, has 52 dials, and gives 8() distinct indications 
(apply to the sacristan, 1 fr. ; on Sat. & Sun. 50 c). 

To the W. of the cathedral is the Basse-CEuvre, a Carlovingian 
structure, probably the nave of the older cathedral erected in 987-97. 
It contains tapestry of the 15th century. 

The gateway, flanked by two towers resembling pepper-boxes, 
on the S.W. of the Place de la Cath^drale, belongs to the Palais de 



to Le Treport. AUMALE. 3. Route. 35 

Justice (PI. B, 3), formerly the bishop's palace. It dates from the 
14th cent., though the foundations are Gallo-Roman work, at one 
time forming part of the town-walls. The palace itself was built in 
1500; its richly-sculptured facade should be seen from the court. 
The fine restored Romanesque tower at the back is now partly con- 
cealed by trees, — The ancient building, with remains of an old Gothic 
cloister, behind the Basse-Oiluvre is now occupied by a small Musee 
(PI. B, 3; open free on Sun. & holidays, 12-4, on other days on 
application). 

The Musee chiefly contains Gallo-Roman antiquities and mediseval wood- 
carvings, with a few paintings, natural history specimens, and numerous 
small antiquities. 

To the N. of the cathedral is the Bishop's Palace (PI. B, 3 ; 1878-82). 

Many quaint Old Houses are to be found in the streets near 
the cathedral; e.g. in the Rue St. Laurent (Nos. 26 and 27), diverg- 
ing to the W. from the Rue de I'Eveche, and especially in the Rue 
Philippe-de-Beaumanoir and Rue St. Paul, on the other side of the 
church. Farther on is a corner -turret with a leaden figure of 
St. Michael, of the Gothic period. A few yards farther on we reach 
the Place Ernest-Gerard (PI. B, 4) and the Theatre (PL B, 4), to the 
left from which lies the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville. 

A good view of the town is obtained from the Square du Reservoir (PI. 
H, C, 6), a promenade on a hill, 5-7 min. walk from the station, on the 
other side of the Therain. — About 1/4 M. to the N. of the station is a 
large tree-shaded space known as the Jeu de Paume (PI. D, 3), where a band 
[•lays on Sun. in summer from 3 to 4 p.m. and tennis-matches take place. 
The Lpcie (PI. D, 2) farther on adjoins a hill on which once lay a Roman 
amphitheatre. 

The church of the suburb of Maritsel, to the N.E., has a Romanesque 
tower, a choir of the 12th cent., a nave and portal of the 15-16th, and 
a magnificent wooden altar-screen of the same period. 

^^^^^^^^"^A^s TO GouKNAY (Dieppe), I8V2M., railway in 50 min. (fares 
6 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). This route ascends the ValUe de Bray 
(p. 127). — 141/2 M. St. Oermer. The village (hotel), I3/4 M. to the S.W., 
has an interesting Abbey Church, in the Transition style, partly rebuilt at 
a later date. The *Sain(e Chapelle, a reduced copv of the magnificent 
Sainte Chapelle at Paris, was added to the E. end' in 1259. — I8V2 M 
Oournay, see p. 126. 

F'iOM Heauvais to Gisors, 2IV2 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 3 fr. 90, 2 fr, 

^' * ^I'^J^ '^•^' ~ ^9V2 M. Trie-Chdteau (p. 128). — 21 Vz M. Gisors- ViUe, 
aee p. 127. ' 

From Beauvais to Amiens , aee p. 24; to Clermont and Compiigne. 
see p. 24 5 to St. Just, Pironne, and Cambrai, see pp.24, 28 and R. 8b. 

II. From Beauvais to Le Treport, 

641/2 M. Railway in 13/4-31/3 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5fr. 15 c.). 

We follow the Amiens line as far as (59 M. from Paris) St. Omer- 
en-Chaussce (p. 24). Several small stations follow. 

78 M. Abancourt (buffet), junction for Rouen and Amiens 
(p. 31). — The railway descends rapidly. 82 M. Gourchelles ; 83 M. 
Quincampoix. 

85 M. Aumale (Chapeau Rouge), a small town (2417 inhab.) 
prettily situated on the Bresle, which was formerly the E. boundary 

3* 



36 Route 3. KIJ. Frou) Paris 

of Normandy. Henri IV was severely woiinded here in 1592 and 
narrowly escaped capture by the Leaguers. 'I'he liuc Centrale, passing 
the Hotel de Ville (16- 17th cent.), leads from the station to the chief 
building, the church of St. Pierre et St. Paul, rebuilt in 1508-1610, 
after its destruction by Charles the Bold, who burned the town 
in 1472. The portals, the pulpit (17th cent.), the stained glass, 
and a Holy Sepulchre (15th cent.) are noteworthy. The title of Due 
d'Aumale was borne by the fourth son (1822-97) of Louis Philippe. 
From AuniaU; a railway runs to (32V2M.) Envermeu (p. 122) via (24 M.) 
Londinieres. — To Amiens., see p. 31. 

We now descend the pretty valley of the Bresle. 981/2 M- Blangy 
(Hot. de la Poste), an industrial village with a Gothic church of the 
13th, 14th, and 16th centuries. 101 M. Monchaux. 

103'/2 M. Longroy- Gamaches is the junction for Longpr^ (p. 14). 
Gamaches (Grand Cerf ; St. Pierre), a small town to the right, contains 
an interesting church of the 12th, 13th, and 15th centuries. 

112 M. Eu (//oi. du Commerce et du Cygne, pens, from 7^2 fr.; 
de la Gare, pens, from 6 fr.), a town with 5743 inhab., on the Bresle, 
was a favourite residence of Louis Philippe, who received Queen 
Victoria at the Chateau here in 1843 and 1845. The latter was built 
in the 16-17th cent, and restored by Louis Philippe, but two-thirds 
of it were destroyed by fire in Nov. 1902. The chapel, which was 
saved, has some modern stained glass from Sevres, designed by Paul 
Delaroche and Chenavard. The fine Park (no adm.), laid out by Lc 
Notre, commands a view of the sea. — The Church of St. Lawrence, 
a handsome Gothic edifice founded at the beginning of the 11th cent., 
reconstructed in 1186-1230, partly rebuilt about 1450, and restored' 
in the 19th cent., is notable for the curious double arches between 
the pillars of the nave. In a chapel on the right are a Holy Sepulchre 
(15th cent.) and a Head of Christ (16th cent). The Madonna in the 
apsidal chapel is said to be one of the earliest works of one of the 
brothers Anguier, who were born at Eu (17th cent). — The Chapelle 
du College, built by the Jesuits in 1622-24, contains the monument 
of Henri of Guise, 'le Balafre' or 'the Scarred' (d. 1588), and his wife 
Catherine of Cleves (d. 1633), with their statues and bas-reliefs. — 
The Forest ofEu, 3 M. to the S.W., is a favourite spot for excursions. 

An electric tramway (20 c.) runs from the station via the town (10 c.) 
to Le Triport and Mers. — Branch-railway to (21V2 M.) Abbeville, see p. 14. 

A Diligence plies daily in summer from Eu to (6 M.) Ault (1 fr.) and 
(6 M.) Onival (1 fr. 30 c.). — Ault, or Bourg-dAuU (H6t. St. Pierre or 
des Bainx; de France; de Paris. — Lodgings; Casino), is a small sea-hathing 
resort at the end of a narrow valley. — Onival (E6t. Continental; Terminus,'^ 
de la Plage. — Casino), another small bathing-resort, lies at the end of 
the cliffs and at the beginning of a hank of shingle extending to beyond 
(51/2 M.) Civeux (p. 12). — The summer-resort of Bois-de-Cise (hotels) lies 
2V2 M. to the N.E. of Eu. 

A marshy district, between hills, is now traversed. The rail- 
way passes a little to the left of Mers (p. 37). — 11372 M. Le 
Treport- Mm (Buffet-Hotel). 



to Le Treport. MERS. 3. Route. 37 

Le Treport. — Hotels (omn. to the station 50 c). Hotel de la Plage 
K. from. 5 B. 1% dej. 31/2, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. ; db Fkanoe, R. from 3! 
B. 1, dcj. 372, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. ; des Bains, R. from 4, B. IV4 dej 3 
D, 372, pens, from 8 fr. 5 Bellevue, Quai Francois-Premier: du Commerce' 
Rue du Commerce 5, R. from 2, B. 3/4, dej. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; all 
these near the sea. Hotel de Calais, in the upper part of the town at 
some distance from the beach, dej. 2V2 fr. ' 

Sea-Baths. Cabin 30, costume 35, drawers 30, 'peignoir' 20-25 towel lU 
bathing attendant 50 c. — The beach at Mers is better ' ' 

Casino. Adm. for 1 day 1-2 fr. 
British Vice-Consul, E. Harrison Barker. 

Omnibus to Mers or to Eu, 30 c. — Electric tramway, see p. 36. 
Le Treport, a town with 4985 inhab. , is situated at the moutli 
of the Bresle, at the base of a lofty cliff. The harbour is chiefly 
used by tishing-boats and small trading-craft. Le Tre'port, however, 
from its proximity to Paris, is a very popular sea-bathing resort' 
in spite of its shingly beach, on which rises the Casino. A visitors' 
quarter is springing up on the top of the cliff, connected with ttie 
beach by a cable tramway threading a tunnel and by a flight of 
stairs with 378 steps. Fine view. 

The only noteworthy edifices in the old town are the Hotel de 
Ville (with a small museum), erected on the foundations of a tower 
of the 16th cent. ; the Presbytery, a timber house dating from the 
Renaissance period; and the Church of St. Jacques (16th cent.), 
which rises above the harbour. The chief objects of interest in the 
last are the key-stones of the vaults, the Descent from the Cross in 
painted stone, and some quaint pictures. 

Mers. - Hotels (omn. 1/2 fr.). Hotel du Casino pens, from 9 fr • 
f^n^Tl'^- 'h o'J-r.^'.,?- ^'/^ ^"^i' ^°*^ «° t^« ^^^^^-^ «^s Bains, R. 
UE L hoROPE, these three open all the year round ' 

Iff '?**^m- ^^^^° ?^' costume 60, 'peignoir^ 20, towel 10, attendant 45 c. 

ilectnc Tramway in summer to Treport Station (p. 3iS) every20min.(10c.). 

Afers, about ^/^M. from Le Treport, lies at some distance from 
the right bank of the Bresle and has in consequence no harbour The 
space between the cliffs and the sea is wider than at Le Treport 
the beach, where the Casino (adm. free) is situated, is broader and 
less shingly. 

From Le Treport to Dieppe, see p. 122. 

4. From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris). 

Kro^^'/' ^' ■^^'''^.''^J", I'Mbrs. (fares 12 fr. 85, 8 f r. 60, 5 fr. 60 c ). - 
iTOm London, Lexth, Hull, and Uverpool to Dunkirk, see p. xiv. 

rPi ^^J^jf^» *'r. Dwwfcerywe. - Hotels. Hotel do Chapeau -Rooge 
.0 V ' ^' ^® ^*- S^bastien 5, R. from 4, omn. 1/2 fr.; Hot -Restadeant 

"LANtrm'b V"'./r-?f * ^'^. K''^^'^ vJ-ir^^lllTm""Z 
DE la Pa X Vpi' ^ \ l^ Alexandre-Trois 18, R. from 2, pens, from 91/4 fr. ; 
(PI e B sVr Vro'n. V^' »»« David-d^^ngers4; du 'LiON-DE-FLANDRi- 
Flace'dela G^re '''' P^"'- ^^^- '>°I>IX-NECVlfiME SifiCLE, (PI. C; B, 5), 

(PI ??^^ p"^ Restaurants, in the Place ,Tean-Bart, Rue de la Marine 
Ifi. L., 4), Rue du Quai (near the Bassin du Commerce^, and at the station. 



38 Route 4. DUNKIRK. 

Cabs. Per drive in the town IV4 fr.5 to the sea-baths IV2 fr.-, per hour 2 fr. 

Tramways (10-26 c.) from the station to Malo-les-Kains (p. 40), via the 
Place Jean-Bart and the harbour; to St. Pol-snr-Mer (p. 40)-, etc. 

Steamers. To Caen, every Frid. \ to Le Havre, Granville, St. BrieuCy 
and Cherbourg, every Wednesday. To Great Britain, see p. xiv. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. C, 5), Rue Dupouy 12. 

British Consul, P. C. Sarell, Rue Gaspard-Molo ; vice-consul, J. E. Wintle. 
— American Consular Agent, Benjamin Morel, 76 Rue Emmery. 

English Church (PI. C, 3), Place de la Prison, services at 11 and 6.30; 
chaplain, Rev. W. J- Drought, M. A., 1 Avenue Faidherbe, Malo-les-Bains. 

Dunkirk, with 38,287 inhab., is the fourth commercial port in 
France and a fortress of the first class. Its strength is largely due to its 
position in the Watteringues, a district drained by means of canals 
and dykes, which in times of danger may be completely laid under 
water. The great majority of the inhabitants of this district are 
Flemings and speak little or no French. There is a small English 
colony at Dunkirk, which is annually re-inforced by summer- visitors. 

The name Dunkirk, the 'church in the dunes', appears first about the 
9th or 10th century. The town belonged at first to the counts of Flanders, 
but from the close of the 13th cent, its possession was frequently disputed 
by the French kings. In 1646 the Great Condd besieged and took Dunkirk on 
behalf of Louis XIV., but in 1652 the Spaniards again made themselves 
masters of the town. Six years later Marshal Turenne defeated the Spaniards, 
on whose side Cond^ now fought, in the great Battle of the iJunes, and 
Dunkirk was placed in the hands of Cromwell, in return for the services 
of 80()0 of his Ironsides, who had largely contributed to the victory. A 
small body of English Royalists fought on the other side. The English 
fortified the port and built a citadel, but in 1662 Charles II. sold this 
important position to Louis XIV. for the sum of 5,000,000 livres. In the 
subsequent wars against England the privateers of Dunkirk wrought great 
havoc among the enemy's shipping, and at the Peace of Utrecht in 1713 
and again at the Peace of Paris in 1763 the English insisted on the 
destruction of the harbour. In 1793 Dunkirk offered a gallant resistance to 
the English, and was finally relieved by the victory at Hondschoote (p. 41). 

Though clean and well-built, Dunkirk, apart from its Harbour, 
is comparatively uninteresting. From the Bassin du Commerce (PI. B, 
C, 4, 3) the Quai des HoUandais leads to the S. to the Arriere-Port, 
on the N.W. side of which lies the Bassin de la Marine. On the 
S.E. side is the Pare de la Marine (PI. B, 4, 5), the chief promen- 
ade of the inner town. Thence the street runs to the S., towards 
the railway-station, turning to the W. a little farther on and cross- 
ing a canal. To the N.E. of the Bassin du Commerce extends the 
outer harbour (comp. Plan). The chief trade of Dunkirk is in wood, 
grain, and wool. 

In the Rue de la Panne rises the church of St. John the Baptist 
(PL B, C, 4; 18th cent.), in which are a Christ by Van Dyck, a 
Holy Family by Guido Reni, and other interesting paintings. — The 
church of St. Eloi (PL C, 4), a little to the E., a Gothic edifice of 
the 16th cent., has double aisles, but the whole nave has been unduly 
shortened by the removal of the first bays. The Belfry (1440), a 
massive square tower of brick , 295 ft. high, is now separated from 
the church. 




'^^MT^TOepaT^a^i\pHH5e5en!eTpzi? 



DUNKIRK. 4. Route. 39 

The Place Jean-Bart (PL C, 4), to the S., occupies the centre 
of the town. It is embellished with a bronze statue, by David 
d'Angers, of Jean Bart (1651-1702), the famous sailor and pri- 
vateer of Dunkirk. The Rue des Vieux-Quartiers and then the Rue 
Royer, the third turning on the right, lead hence to the Theatre 
and the Musee. 

The Musee (PI. D, 4), on the site of a former convent, the garden 
of which is now a promenade, is open to the public daily, except 
Mon., 12-4 (Sun. 10-6), from June 15th to Oct. 15th, and on Sun. 
and Thurs., 12-4, during the rest of the year. Strangers may obtain 
access at other times. 

Room I. Models of ships, etc. — Room II, to the right. Medals, weapons, 
ethnographic and other collections. At the 4th window, to the right, Head 
of James II. of England, in wax, with the cap he wore on his death-bed. 
— Room III. Natural history collection. 

The next three rooms contain Paintings. — Room IV. To the right, 
123. Olaize, Festival in honour of Theseus ^ 467. 3fme. Demont- Breton., Jean 
Bart landing at Dunkirk after the battJe of Texel in 1694; Landscapes by 
Pelouze (245) and others; 357. Weerts, The swoon; 66. Boudin, Trouville ; 
317. Taitegrain., Louis XIV. visiting the battlefield of the Dunes ; 178. Le 
Roux., The mysterious stone of Pompeii; 7. Baader, Washington bidding 
farewell to his mother after his election as President of the L'nited States ; 
149. Jadin, Boar-hunt. — In the centre, 1. Carrier-Bellevse, Dancer fastening 
her shoe; 37. Tony-Noel, Romeo and Juliet fmarble). 

Room V. To the right, 188. De Marne, Halt at a tavern; 340. Van de 
Velde, Sea -piece; 241. Fatel, Italian landscape; 307. Snayers, Cavaliers 
proceeding to battle; 230. Van der Neer, Moonlight; 162. G. de Lairesse, 
Resurrection ; "133. Guardi, View in Venice ; 115. Francken the Elder, Herodias 
and Salome; 291. Rubens, Assumption, sketch for the painting at Vienna; 
237. Palamedes, Happy meeting. — 2. Alhano, Venus causing the anemone 
to spring from the blood of Adonis ; 309. Snayen , Attack on a convov; 
above the door, 224. Moucheron the Elder, Return from the hunt; 3. Alhano, 
Death of Adonis. — 284. Zorg, Farm interior; 223. P. MoreeUe, Portrait; 
59. Conca, Madonna appearing to St. Joseph Calasans. — 308. Snayers, 
Cavalry skirmish; 311. Solimena, Assumption; 2b6. P. Potter Ci), Cattle; 345, 
346. /. Vernet, Sea-pieces. 

Room VI. To the right, 147. Holbein the Younger (?), Portrait of Luther 
or Melanchthon; 101. Diirer (V), St. Jerome; 454. Pietro da Cortona, Massacre 
Of the Innocents; 157, 158. Jouvenet, Heads; 238. Patel, Landscape; 285. 
Balvator Rosa, 192. Van der Meulen, Cavalry engagements; 394. David, Gen- 
8onn^ the Girondist; 334. Le Valentin (Jean de Boulongne), Guitar-player; 
239. Patel, Landscape; 1*J6. Mignard, Duke of Burgundy, grandson of 
Louis XIV. ; /. de Reyn, 264, 26B. Portraits, 267-269. St. Alexander delivered 
by angels, triptych with portraits of the donors; 172. Mme. Vigie-Lebrun, 
Female portrait; 173. Leclei'c, Abduction of Europa; 183, 184. Vanloo, The 
artist and his wife; 195. Mignard, Louis XIV.; 278. Rigaud, Portrait of 
a steward. — 325. Tenters the Younger, Village feast; '"254. Fr. Pourbus, 
Martyrdom of St. George, a triptych, pronounced by Michiels the artist's 
masterpiece; 118. Fyt, Still-life. — 150. Abr. Janssens, Woman refusing to 
sacrifice to idols ; 358. Wildens, Return from the hunt; 156. /. Jordaens (?), 
Adoration of the Magi; 146. Van HoecJc, Camp; 260. Er. Quellin, St. Helena 
discovering the true Cross; 355. P. de Vos'J), Dogs attacking a heron; 
180. LeteWer (1668-94), Still-life; 327. Tilburg, Topers; 138. Van Helmont, 
Toper; 283. Zorg, Rustic interior; 356. M. de Vos, Portrait; 126. Van Goyen, 
Sea-piece; 306. Snayers, Large landscape. — 243 bis. Peelers, Town and 
Harbour of Antwerp in 1625: 41. Cagnacci, Judith ; 368. Zuccharelli, Adoration 
of the Magi. — Sculpture: 14. Chartrousse, Repentant Magdalen. 

On the first (loor is the Municipal Library, with upwards of 35,000 vols, 
and 87 MSS. 



40 Route 4. MALO-LES-BAINS. 

The liue des Vieux-Remparts loads from the Place du Theatre 
towards Malo-les-Bains (see below), and near Notre Dame des Dunes 
(PI. C, 3), a pilgrim-resort, known also as ihQ Petite- Chapelle, is 
crossed by the tramway (see belowj. Close by a Column of Victory 
was erected in 1893 on the site of the old ramparts to commem- 
orate the raising of the siege of Dunkirk in 1793. 

Tlie Rue Carnot (tramway) leads back to the harbour, near the 
Tour de Leughenaer (PI. C, 3), used as a lighthouse. Following the 
tramway to the Place d'Armes, we reach tlie UuteL de Vilie (PI. C, 4), 
the finest building in the town, which was rebuilt in 1901 in the 
neo-Flemish style. It is of red and white brick, and is surmounted 
by a belfry 245 ft. in height. The statues around the building 
represent eminent natives. 

Tramways (p. 38) run to St. Pol-sur-Mer (9799 inhab.), IV2 M. to the 
W. of the station, and to Malo-les-Bains, to the 'N.E. of Dunkirk. 

Malo-les-Bains. — Hotels. Casino-Hotel (PI. d; D, 1), on the beach, 
R. from 3, ddj.3, D. 3V2, pens, from 10 fr. ; B6t. de lOc&an (PI. 65 D, 2); 
H6t. Pyl (PI. f; D, 2), 1). 3 fr.; de la Renaissance., Avenue Bel-Air^ du Nord., 
Avenue du Kursaal. — Eestadrants. "Casino (see above), dej. 372, D. 
4 fr. ; JBellevue., on the beach. — Sea Baths. Bains Belle-Plage, Bains du 
Cap-Nord; bath 75 c., 1 fr. incl. costume. — 3Ialo-les-Bains (5761 inhab.) 
is a favourite and somewhat expensive sea-bathing resort, with a spacious 
sandy beach, an esplanade IV4BI. long, numerous chalets to let, a kursaal 
(PI. D, 2), etc. It is continued by Malo-Terminvs (Grand-Hotel Casino 5 Hot. 
Moderne, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. ^ de la Plage), which also has a kur- 
saal and a casino. 

Fkom Dunkirk to Furnes (Ghent, etc.), 16 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 

2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 20 c). From (8V2 M.) Ghyvelde, the last French 
station, a narrow-gauge line runs to Hondschoote (8 M.; p. 41). At (13 M.) 
Adinkerke the Belgian customs-examination is made. — 16 M. Furnes (Hot. 
Royal, etc.), see' Baedeker''s Belyium and Holland. 

From Ddnkirk to Calais, 3OV2 M., railway in l-l'/i hr. (fares 5 fr. 25, 

3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 30 c). — At (21/2 M.) Coudekerqm-Branche this line leaves 
the Hazebrouck (Arras) railway to the left. 91/2 M. Loon-Plage (Hot. des 
Bains) is an unpretending bathing-place. 13V2 51. Bourbourg is the junction 
for the line from Watten to Gravelines. — 16 M. Gravelines (Hot. des Messa- 
geries ; du Commerce ; du Vingtieme-Siecle), an uninteresting town with 6284 
inhab., is strongly fortified and has a port on the Aa., near its embouchure in 
the North Sea. In the middle ages it belonged to the Counts of Flanders. 
In 1558 the French were defeated on the sands of Gravelines by the 
Spaniards under Egmont, who was assisted by the broadsides of an English 
fleet of ten sail; but exactly one hundred years later the town was finally 
joined to France. The Spanish Armada was defeated and put to flight by 
the English tleet in 1588 off Gravelines. A large quantity of eggs and similar 
produce is annually shipped to lingland from this port. — The line con- 
tinues to traverse a flat district, intersected by canals, and passes the 
suburban stations of St. Pierre and Les Fontinettes before reaching (30V2 M.) 
Calais (p. 3). 

The railway to Arras leaves that to Calais (see above) to the 
right at (21/2 ^0 Coudekerque-Branche. 

5 M. Bergues (Tete d'Or; Anye ; Sauvage), a fortified town with 
5032 inhab., at the junction of three canals. It has frequently been 
captured by the French, English, Spanish, and Dutch, but success- 
fully resisted the attack of the English in 1793. The church of 
St. Martin, in the Gothic style, rebuilt in the 17th cent., with a 



DOUAI. 5. Route. 41 

lofty tower, contains several interesting paintings and a notewortliy 
high-altar. The Belfry is a Gothic brick erection of the 16th century. 
The Hotel de Ville, in the Spanish style of the 17th cent., contains 
a small but interesting collection of paintings, chiefly collected from 
the convents of the town (comprising single examples of Van Dyck, 
Ribera, Terburg, Matsys, and Rubens); adm. on application to the 
custodian. 

From Bergues a branch-railway runs to (8V2 M.) Hondschoote (Hdt. 
du Sauvage), a small town with 3324 inhab. (formerly 20,000), 8 M. to the E. 
A monument erected in the public square in 1889 conamemorates the victory 
gained by the French in 1793 over the British and their allies, which com- 
pelled the latter to raise the siege of Dunkirk. 

19 M. Cassel (Gr.-H6t. Casino, closed in winter; Hotel du 
Sauvage; du Lion- Blanc), a town with 3091 inhab., deriving its 
name from the 'Oastellum Morinorum', which occupied the site in 
Roman times, is situated on the Mont Cassel (515 ft.), an abrupt 
hill, 2 M. from the station by road (electric tramway in 10 min., 
30 or 25 c, there and back 50 c). 

Its commanding and strong position made Cassel frequently the object 
of siege and capture, before it was finally annexed to France by the 
treaty of Nimwegen in 1678; and it has given name to three important 
battles (1071, 1328, and 1677). 

The town presents almost no points of interest, though its num- 
erous windmills give it a striking appearance from a distance. The 
terrace of the ancient fort commands a wide view. The old Hotel 
de Ville contains a small Musee. 

26 M. Hazebrouck and thence to (691/2 M.) Arras, see pp. 17, 18. 

5. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes. 

74 M Railway to Arras, 38V2 M,, in 1-2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 70, 
3 fr. 5 c.); from Arras to Douai, I5V2 M. , in 25-55 min. (fares 3 fr., 2 fr. 5, 
' ♦• • l^/'iv^""^"^ ^'^"'^^ ^^ Valenciennes, 20 M., in V4-IV4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 70, 
,.. nhi"jJ?^^-\' ~ ^^^^ P*"S to Valenciennes, 155 M. in 3V4-4V2 hrs. 
(tares 28 fr. 10 c, 19 fr., 12 fr. 40 c). 74/2. 

Amiens, see p. 24. The trains run in the direction of Paris as 
far as (3 M.) Longueau (pp. 23, 21), where they join the direct line 
from Paris to Arras. Thence to (38V2 M.) Arras, see p. 21. 

On leaving Arras our line passes the railway to Bethune and 
Calais (pp. 18, 15) on the left, and descends the valley oftheScarpe. 
— 431/2 M. Roeux; 48 m. Vitry-en-Artois, where Sigibert, King of 
Austrasia, was assassinated in 575 by the emissaries of Fredegonda; 
51 M. Corbehem. The towers of Douai now come in sight: the 
tallest belongs to the Hotel de Ville (p. 43). 

54 M. Douai. — Hotels. Hotel do Gkand-Cbkf et do Commerce 
nnv»l ^' \ ^""^ ?.*• Jacques 20, R. from 2, dej. 3, D. 872 fr. ; Hotel 
S & Q^°;?^Q'i,^f '.?^« ^^ Valenciennes 25 ; Buffet-Hotel, at the station, 
Place CarAot ■' ^°^^' Dumetz, Place de la Station 6; St. Jacqdes, 

Restaurants. Restaurant des Falmiers, Rue St. Jacques 40. good ; Bestaur- 
aiit Bovssard, lerrasae St. Pierre 6. - Caps in the Place d'Armes. 



42 Route 5. DOUAI. From Amiens 

Cabs. Per drive 80 c, per hr. IV2 fr. for 1-2 pers., 1 fr. 20 c. and 2 fr. 
for 3 pers., 1 fr. 60 c. and 2V2 Ir. for 4 pers.; double fare at night. — 
Electric Tramways. From the Station (PI. E, 3) via the Place d'Armes to 
the Place Vlln-iller (PI. C, f); 10 c); from Dorignies (coinp. PI. C, 1) via the 
Place d'Armea to Sin-le-Noble and to Aniche (comp. Pi. E, 5). — Post <Sc 
Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3), Rue du Beguinage 11. 

Douai, a town with 33,247 inhab., is situated on the canalized 
channel of the Scavpe. It is an industrial centre of some importance. 
The fortifications have been demolished. 

Douai is a tovs^n of great anticiuity, having probably grov\^n up origin- 
ally round a Gallo-Roman fort. In the v?ars carried on at various times 
by the French against the English, Flemish, Germans, and Spaniards the 
town often suffered siege and capture. In 1479 , however, it successfully 
resisted the attack of Louis XI. , whose discomliture is still celebrated 
every July by the Fete de Gayant, at which the giant Gayant and his 
family (made of wicker-work), clad in media;val costumes, perambulate 
the town to the lively strains of the 'air de Gayant'. In 1529 the town 
passed under the dominion of the Spaniards. In 1667 Louis XIV. captured 
the town, and though the French were expelled in 1710 by the Duke of 
Marlborough and Prince Eugene, they made good their footing again in 

1712, and their possession was confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht in 

1713. — The Roman Catholic university founded here in 1652 to counteract 
the Protestantism of the Netherlands had a brilliant but brief career. The 
College of English Benedictines (Rue St. Benoit), founded in 1560 for the 
education of English priests, still has about 100 students. In 1610 an Eng- 
lish translation of the Old Testament for Roman Catholics was published 
at Douai; and the English Roman Catholic version of the Scriptures, in- 
cluding the New Testament translated at Rheims in 1582, is generally 
known as the Douai or Douay Bible. — Douai is the birthplace of Giovanni 
da Bologna {Jean de Bologne or de Douai; 1524-i60,-S), the sculptor, and ( f 
Jean Bellegambe the Elder (ca. 1470-1532), the painter, surnamed 'Maitre des 
Couleurs\ 

The street leading to the W. from the station brings us to the 
handsome Place Carnot (PI. D, E, 3), the principal promenade, 
near which is the Muse'e (p. 43). Thence the Rue St. Jacques and 
its continuation the Rue de Bellain run to the S.W. to thQ Plact 
d'Armes (FJ. C, D, 4). 

The church of St. Pierre (PI. C, D, 3), to the right in the Rue 
St. .Jacques, rebuilt in the 18th cent., is remarkable only for its 
huge tower, dating from the 16th cent, and occupying the whole 
breadth of the fagade. It contains several paintings of the Frencli 
school. — Near this clmrch, Rue du Clocher-St-Pierre 19, is the 
Maison des Remy., a Renaissance house of the 17th cent., restored 
in 1856. 

Tbe church of Notre-Dame (PI. D, 4), near the Place d'Armes, 

contains the celebrated '^Altar-piece of Anchin, painted in 1520 b> 

J. Bellegambe the Elder (see above). Visitors are admitted to tht 

sacristy, where the painting hangs, from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 6. 

except on Sun. (50 c). 

The work consists of nine oaken panels, representing, on the outside 
Christ enthroned between the Madonna, the donor (who is presented bj 
his patron, St. Charlemagne), and some monks of Anchin , headed bj 
St. Benedict-, on the live interior panels the Trinity is seen surrounded b] 
members of the Church Triumphant (254 ligures). — In the sacristy is als( 
a curious mystical representation of the Virgin, of the 15th century. 



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to Valenciennes. DOtJAI, 5. Route. 43 

In the garden in front of the church is a bronze statue of Marce- 
line Deshordes -Valmore (1786-1859), the poetess, and on the far 
side the Hospital (PI. D, E, 4; 17th cent.). — Farther on is the 
Porte de Valenciennes (15th cent.), outside which is a Public Park 
(PI. D, E, 4, 5) on the site of the old fortifications (band on Thurs.). 
The *H6tel de Ville (PI. C, 4), to the left of the Rue de la 
Mairie, the most notable edifice in the town, is a fine monument 
of Gothic architecture, partly of the 15th century. Above it rises 
a five-storied Belfry, 130 ft. high, the upper part of which is cren- 
elated and flanked with turrets and surmounted by a spire with a 
lion bearing the banner of Flanders. The interior court, the fine 
Gothic chapel, the Salle des Fetes, the Salle de la Rotonde, and 
the Salon Blanc may be inspected. 

The Rue de la Mairie leads hence to the Place Thiers (PI. C, 4), 
with the monument to the Illustrations de Douai^ or famous natives 
of Douai. 

On the other side of the Scarpa, beyond the Place Thiers, is the 
Jardin des Plantes (PI. A, 3, 4), in which is a Musee Commercial 
(adm. Thurs. and Sun., 1 to 4 or 5). Beyond the Jardin des 
Plantes is the Porte d' Arras (PI. A, 4), a remnant of the medieval 
fortifications. In this neighbourhood also is the church of St. Jacques 
(PI. B, 3), the interesting altar-piece of which represents a miracle 
of the year 1254. The Rue Campion almost opposite the church 
leads to the Palais de Justice (PI. C, 3, 4), in a building formerly 
belonging to an abbey. The ancient hall of the 'Parlement de 
Flandre', which met in Douai after 1709 (now occupied as an 
appeal-court), is adorned with good paintings. 

The *MusKE (PL D, 3), in the Rue Fortier, a street running 
from the Scarpe to the Place Carnot, is open to the public on Sun. 
& Thurs., 11-4 or 5- to visitors after 9 a.m. on other days for a fee 
(ring at the small door on the left). The exhibits are provided 
with explanatory labels. 

Ground Floor. — At the end of the gcallery to the left of the vestibule 
are two glass-cases: •1762. Ch. Corbet, Bust; 825, 1008. Belaville, Terracottas. 

Sculpture Gallert, to the left. — 1st Bay. Antique works: eight 
marble busts and reproductions in plaster. — 2nd Bay. Renaissance works, 
chiefly by Giovanni da Bologna (see p. 42) : ~ 934. Samson smiting the Phil istines, 
original model in terracotta; bas-reliefs ; under glass, *933. Christ, terra- 
cotta original, 993. Hercules strangling Antseus, 1058, 1059. Pissatore. At 
the end, •877. Marble bust of Christ. — The 3rd Bay contains modern 
works by Bra, Laoust (both of Douai). Carpeaux, Rodin, and others. 

First Floor. Picture Gallery. — On the staircase : 1977. Detaille, The 
Battle of Champigny. — Room I : from right to left, 2083. Raffaelli, Black- 
smiths ; 148. Fromentin, Street in Algeria; •77. Corot, Landscape; 1658. 
^anhn-Latour, Grapes; 2066. Demont-Breton, Rising tide; 2043. L. Boilly, My 
little soldiers. — 175. Harpignies, The Piccola Marina at Sorrento; 129. 
nuttUeux, Landscape; 40. Boilly, The festival of the small altars ; 1657. 
Jierton, Brumaire; 1071. Demont-Breton, The family: i^b.Isahey, Smugglers; 
lyad. Eug. Delacroix, Portrait of Bellinger. — 1594. Dutilleux, Landscape; 
y5b. A. Demont, Brick-field ; •750. J. Breton, Fisher girl ; Em. Breton, 749. 
W intcr-night in Artois, 2041. Hail. — 764. Frangais, Path through the 
.■nrn. 75*3. Courbct^ Reflection; 54. Bucquet, Banks of the Meuse. — In the 



corn 



44 Route 5. DOUAI. 



From Amiens 



centre: Eoussin, Sketch of a monument to Dapleix (p. 74); 2025, E.Breton 
Church in the evening. ' 

Room II. *204. Largillidre, Portrait of a lady; 1234. L. da Vinci, The 
Infant Christ and St. John; 781. Batsano, Annunciation; 747. P. da Cortona, 
Providence commanding the present and the future. — 1720. D&sbordei^^ 
Vaccination; 759. David, Mme. Tallien (1807j; 2000. Ziem, Still-life; 1982! 
Bourgogne, Prayer; 1990. E. Breton, The song of the nightingale; 1995. 
Deulli/, Orpheus ; 1875. Dutilleux, 174. Hanoteau, Landscapes. — 1637. Bellini 
Madonna; 776. Monnoyer, Flowers; 1117. Clouet, Aune de Buren; *75l! 
Bordone, Venetian lady; 320. Kibera, Mathematician. — 777. Fanini, Land- 
scape with ruins; 1832. Le Sidaner, Extreme unction; 1889. Duhem, 
St. Genevieve; 2019. Frangais, Margin of a wood; 1831. E. Breton, Church 
of Courrieres. — 231, 230. /. B. Martin, Battles ; 307. i^chool of Primaticcio, 
La Belle Paule (vs^ho presented the keys of Toulouse to Francis I. on 
his solemn entry into that town). — In the centre: 2038. Mme. Duhem, 
The Tour des Dames ; 2045. Lantara, Landscape; 1089. School of Qiotto, 
'Colmo' or birth-tray, a curious Italian object painted on both sides. 

Room III. 44. Bosch (more probably Peter Buys), Trials of Job (grot- 
esque); 283. Van OrleyCi), Madonna and Child; 26. J.Bellegambe the Younger, 
Dead bishop lying in state; 51. Brueghel the Elder, The tower of Babel. — 
82. Cranach, Portrait of Calvin's wife; 1665. W. C. Duyster, Mandoline- 
player; 384. Vinckboons, Village fair; 332. liubens, Calling of St. Matthew; 
■'177. Heda, Still-life; *i34. Van Dyck, Prometheus; 1640. Berck-Heyde, t^uay 
at Haarlem; <52. P. Brueghel the Elder, Village attacked by disbanded 
soldiers; 763. A. van Everdingen, Torrent; 265. Van Noort, Adoration of 
the Magi; 1598. S. Franck, Miracle of Notre-Dame de Cambon; "138. 
G. van Everdingen, Portrait (1633); 389. De Vos the Elder, Portrait. — 362. 
Palmedes Stevens, Portrait; 130. Van Dyck, Christ mourned by angels; 
Van der Meulen, 238. Entry of Louis XIV. and Maria Theresa into Douai, 
239 (farther on), Louis XIV. before Lille ; 1167. Moreelse, Portrait ; 781. Rubens, 
Pan and Ceres; 237. Van der Meulen, Louis XIV. ; 244. A/it. More, Portrait. — 
197. Van Dyck, Portrait; 790. Tenters the Elder, Sorcery; 331. PMbens, 
Vintage; 181. VanHelmont, Village rejoicings; 131. Van Dyck^ St. Benedict 
receiving SS. Placidus and Maurus at Subiaco ; '182. B. van der Heist, 
Portrait; 87. Cut/p, Portrait of a child; *81. French School of the 15th Cent. 
(Marmion?), Siren at her toilet; 1639. Van Beest, HOrse-fair; 312. Van 
Ravestein, Portrait; 748. Van Brekelenkam, Family of Govaert Flinck; 1979. 
B. van Orley, Folly; 183. School of Cologne, Portrait. — *234. Marinus 
van Romerswael, St. Jerome meditating on the Last Judgment; 125. Van 
Orley, Crucifixion of St. Peter. — In the centre: ''23. J. Bellegambe the 
Elder (p. 42), Shutters of a triptych in honour of the Immaculate Con- 
ception (1526); *408. Jean Privost de Mons (picture painted on both sides), 
Virgin appearing to a Cistercian monk and the Last Judgment; •2042. 
Bellegambe the Elder, Immaculate Conception, sketch for the central panel 
of No. 23. 

Returning to Ihe vestibule we enter the rooms on the right. Room I 
belongs to the Ethnographical Collection, which is continued in two rooms 
to the left of the vestibule. — Room II. Paintings. To the right, 1105. 
P. Veronese, Girl with bouquet; 56. Callot, Pillagers; 166. Dvplessis, Ben- 
jamin Franklin; 42. Boisselat, Funeral in the church of Dreux. In the 
glass-cases in the centre: 240. Mignard, Duchess of Longueville; miniatures, 
drawings, etc. ; *669. David d'' Angers, Bust of Merlin, a lawyer of Douai. 
Room III. 173. Ouet, The ambulance ; 241. P. Mignard, Ecce Homo ; 1095, 
1096. School of F. Boucher., Narcissus, Jupiter, and Calisto. — Room IV 
contains ihe, Archaeological Collection, including Roman antiquities found at 
Bavai (p. 49). 

On the First Floor is the Public Library , with 90,000 vols, and 
1820 MSS. (open on week-days, 9 to 12 and 2 to 4 or 5). The collection 
of coins also is deposited here. 

The Collection of Natural History, said to be one of the largest in 
France, is distributed on the ground-floor (mineralogy), 1st floor (geology, 
botany), and 2nd floor (zoology). 



to Valenciennes. SOMAIN. 5. Route. 45 

The Mus^e Douaisien, or local historical museum, in the laboratory- 
Ituilding on the left side of the garden, is open free on Sundays. 

The quarter of the town behind the Mus^e is to a large extent 
occupied by the Arsenal, barracks, and schools. 

From Douai a branch-line runs to (28 M.J Tournai (p. 60), via ("13 M.) 
Orchies fp. 50) and (20V2 M.) Rumes, the first station in Belgium. Beyond 
(P/i M.) Font-de-la-DeHle the railway traverses the coal-field of L^Escarpelle 
and passes, on the right, the zinc-works of the Society des Asturies. 

Another branch-line of local interest runs from Douai to (20i/2 M.) 
Pont-tt- Marcq via (11 M.) Mons-en-Pivdle or Fuelle, where Philippe IV le 
Bel defeated the Flemish in 1304. A cavern on the W. side of the hill 
is known as the Pas de Roland, and according to tradition the slain of 
both armies were buried here. 

From Douai to Lille, see R. 61; to Cambrai (Paris), flee p. 63. 

On quitting Donai the train runs for a short distance in the 
direction of Arras, then turns to the left. To the right is the line 
to Cambrai. — 57 M. Montigny-en-Ostrevent, with a modern Renais- 
sance chateau, seen among the trees to the left. 

61 ^2 M. Somain (Hot. Bourlet; Lavallard ; Mio), an industrial 
town and centre of the local coal-trade, has a population of 6545. 
Kailway to Cambrai and Busigny, see pp. 63, 61. 

From Somain to P^kdwelz via Anzin, 24 M., railway in I'A hr. 
(fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 75 c.). This line runs through one of the 
most important coal-districts in the N. of France. Nearly every station 
has its coal-mine and miners' colony, which form the characteristic features 
in the scenery. — 6 M. Denain (Hdt. Moderne; de V Europe), a town with 
24,564 inhab., at the junction of the Scheldt and the Selle, carries on 
considerable manufactures of steel, sugar -candy, spirits, etc. A steam- 
tramway connects Denain with Valenciennes. — 9^/2 M. lUrin. — 11 M. 
St. Vaast-a-Haut, an outlying suburb of Valenciennes, is the headquarters 
of the Compagnie d'Anzin, a large coal-mining society founded in 1757 
(mining museum). — 12 31. Anzin (Hdt. Ste. Barhe), with 14,387 inhab. , 
on the Scheldt, is practically a suburb of Valenciennes (tramway to the 
Place d'Armes, U/4 M.), Besides the works of the Compagnie d'Anzin (see 
above) there are numerous foundries, workshops, and glass-works in the 
town. In the public square is the Monument of Fontaine, inventor of 
tlie parachute now used in lowering the cages into the mines. — At 
(141/2 M.) Bruay (pop. 7482) the line joins the railway to (2 M.) Valen- 
ciennes, and farther on it skirts the forest of Eaismes (see p. 46). 171/2 M 
Fresnes (pop. 6719), where the first vein of coal in this district was 
discovered, in 1720, is alao a station on a line from St. Amand to Blanc- 
Misseron (see p. 49). - I8V2 M. Conde-sur-l'Escaut (B6t. du Chevreuil; 
du Grand. Cerf), a fortified town with 5310 inhab., is situated at the 
confluence of the Scheldt and the Bayne and on the canal from Conde 
to Mons (14 M.). Conde, which gives name to the princes of Conde 
clainas a very high antiquity. Since the treaty of Nimwegen (1678) it 
has belonged to France. In the Place Verte are the ancestral castle of 
the princes of Conde, dating from 1410, and the Church, with a curious 
tower, dated 1608. Steam-tramways ply to Vieux-Conde and Valenciennes. 
The road leaving Conde by the Porte de Tournai and traversing the wood 
of the Hermitage leads to Bon-Secours (hotels), a favourite summer- 
resort on a sandy eminence, belonging half to France, half to Belgium. 
!L'8.<^^°°ected with Valenciennes by tramway. — 20 M. Vieux-Condi 
(<777 inhab.) is the last French station. — 24 M. Pirmoelz, the first Beleian 
station, on the line from Tournai (p. 60) to Mons (p. 74). 

rOi/'w^'^^^V^^^'^nw^ J'*^"^ Somain to the important coal> mines of 
v7r.?'i ^ .'/^ l^^ (9V2M.) AnUgny-au-Bac (Cambrai; p. 63) ; and another 
^ la (t) M.) Marchtennet, a small industrial town, to (I2V2 M.) Orchies (p. 50). 



46 Routed. VALENCIP:NNES. From Amiens 

The next stations are (67 M.) Wallers and (711/2 ^•) Haismes 
(Clef d'Or), an industrial village, with 7552 inhabitants. 

Tlie Forest of Raismes, which extends nearly to the Baths of St. Amand 
(p. 50) and affords picturesque walks, may be conveniently reached from 
the stations of Bruay (p. 45), Beuvrages (p. 50), Raismes -Vicoigne (p. 50), 
and St. Amand (p. 50), or by tramway. 

The railway now curves to the right, joins the line to Lille (on 

the left), crosses the P^ruwelz line near Bruay (p. 45), and coalesces 

with the railway from Mons. 

74 M. Valenciennes [Buffet- Hotel, at the station). — Hotels. 
*CrR.-H6T. DD Commerce (PI. a; B, 3), Place des Hots 3, with electric 
light and baths, R. from 3, B. 11/4, dej. 31/2, D. 4, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Hot. 
DE Flandhe (PI. b ; C, 4), Rue de la Halle 2 (omn.); du Nord (PI. c; C, 4), 
Rue du Quesnoy 66 (omn.); Hot. -Restaurant Cognin (PI. d; B, 4), Place 
d'Armes 24; Hot. St. Jacques (PI. e; B, 3), Place St. Jean 11; des 
VoTAGEURS (PI. f; B, 3), Rue St. Jacoues 3; de l'Univers (PI. g; B, 3), 
Rue de Paris 54, dej. or D. 2V2 fr. — Cafes in the Place d'Armes. 

Gabs. Per drive, 1-3 pers. 80 c, per 1/2 hr. 1 fr., per hour IV2 fr. ; 
for more than 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, IV2, or 2 fr. ; double fare at night (11-6; 
10-7 in winter). 

Steam Tramways. From the Mcirchd avx Herbes (PI. B, 3; p. 47) via 
the Station (PI. A, 2): 1. To Amin (comp. PI. A, 1; p. 45), Raismes (see 
above), and St. Amand (p. 50); 2. To Condi-sur-V Escaut and Bon-Secours 
(see p. 45), with branch from Cond^ to Vieux- Condi (see p. 45) and 
Hergnies; d. To Denain and Lourches (p. 63). — From the end of the Rue 
de Mons (PI. D, 3) : 4. To St. Saulve, Onnaing, Blanc-Misseron, and Qm4vrain 
(p. 49). Fares: 2 kilometres 20 & 15 c; 5 kil. 40 & 30 c. ; 10 kil. 75 & 
50 c; 15 kil. 1 fr. & 70 c. ; etc. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3), Rue de la Viewarde 8. 

Protestant Church (PI. A, 3), Rue de Paris 66. 

Valenciennes, a town with 31,759 inhab., and formerly strongly 
fortified, is situated at the junction of the Scheldt and the Rhon- 
elle. The manufacture of 'Valenciennes lace' has died out, but the 
town contains important iron and other factories , and is the chief 
sugar-market in the N. of France. 

The origin of Valenciennes is ancient, and its name may possibly be 
derived from that of Valentinian I., the Roman emperor. At first the 
capital of a small independent principality, the town afterwards passed 
to the counts of Hainault and endured many sieges. Since the treaty of 
Nimwegen in 1678 it has belonged to France. Valenciennes is the birth- 
place of a large number of celebrated men, many of whom are represented 
in medallions round the statue of Froissart (p. 49). Besides the latter, 
Mme. d'Epinay, the authoress, Antoine, Louis, and Francois Watteau, 
J. B. Pater, Pujol, and Harpignies, the painters, Andr^ Beauneveu, H. Lemaire, 
Carpeaux, Hiolle, Crauk, and L. Fagel, the sculptors, were natives of 
this town. 

From the new railway-station (PI. A, 2) we turn to the right 
and enter the town by the Avenue Ferrand, passing the huge build- 
ing of the Academies (PI. A, B, 3), in which are schools of art and 
music and a Museum of Natural History, especially rich in minerals. 

The Lycee (PI. B, 3), close by, occupies part of an old college 
founded by the Jesuits in the 16th cent, in another part of which 
is the Municipal Library, containing about 38,600 vols, and 800 MSS. 
(open on week-days, 10-1 & 5-8), and the small Musee Benezech 
[books, etc.). 



;» MwiiTtrugdlea 










3 



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nE-H^] VALENCIENNES 

•^Qi^ K«'9 i: 15.000 



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Ws^^er i; Debes.Letp 



to Valenciennes. VALENCIPJNNES. 5. Route. 47 

The Square Carpeaux (PI. B, 3), a Utile farther on, is em- 
bellished with a bronze statue, by Carpeaux, of Antoine Watteau 
(1684-1721), the painter. The four figures surrounding it represent 
Italian comedy. — In the same square rises the church of St. Gery 
(PI. B, 3), a Gothic edifice dating from 1225 but frequently restored, 
with an elegant tower of 1852. The fine wood-carvings in the choir 
(16-18th cent.) illustrate the life of St. Norbert, the founder of 
the Praemonstratensian order. From this point the Rue de Paris leads 
via the Marche aux Herbes (PI. B, 3 ; tramway-office) to the hand- 
some Place d'Armes (PI. B, 3, 4), the timber dweUings in which 

date from the period of the Spanish occupation (17th cent.). 

The *H6tel db Ville, in this Place, is the most interesting build- 
ing in Valenciennes. It was reconstructed in 1612, but the impos- 
ing facade was again rebuilt in 1867-68. The latter consists of a 
row of Doric columns supporting a similar row of the Ionic order, 
above which are Caryatides bearing an open gaUery, a pediment 
with sculptures by Carpeaux representing the Defence of Valen- 
ciennes, and a campanile of two stories. The second floor is devoted 
to a Musee of Painting and Sculpture, with a very extensive collec- 
tion of works of the Flemish School (open to the public on Thurs. 
& Sun., and on other days on application, 10-12 & 2-4; entrance 
by the first archway). New building, see p. 49. 

Room I Drawings, engravings, Flemish tapestry (I6th cent.), etc. 
Cambrai; b90. Truffot, Shepherd overcoming a mad dos- 612 LemairP 

555^«oKe Temptation in the Wilderness (bas-relief). Paintings: 108. Zor 
of i!^'. h^f'rr-' ?^^; ^^.\<^»yolterra. Dead Christ; 442. French School 
/ft ylir'V- (?''* Flemish), Adoration of the Child ; 447. German School 
Q/the 16th Ceni., Ecce Homo; Flemish School of the 16th Cent., 443. Death 

Cm?/ Sq^'^' ^^^'i^''^^^\T °i *l^^»I''gM 99- Goxie, Christ bearing the 
Cross; 749. Casms, The Golden Horn (water-colour) 

«taw''M?T?ll:r^^"?P*l'i!^'mP-^,'°*.'°^'' ^Tapestry. 27. Car^pea^x, Model of the 
178 0„ir^7 r /"" *^^^ ^"'^.!"f S'^^^^"" " Paintings: to the right, 177, 
178. Q;uentxndeLatour, Portraits (water-colour); 213, 214. Momal, Adam and 
Eve; 275. Abel de Pujol, Danaids. Left wall: 79. Chigot, Escape of Marius 

27^1.; S'^rw "rf ^?t'^' J^^- ?'«*^^' «*• ^^^-'^-^^ of Hungary. - 
HZ. Abel de Puiol, Portrait of himself. 

»/■• ^?^^ ^^' ^/^°°* ^^^1' 128. Jules Leonard, Physician of the poor • 205 
Mtchd Forest; 59. E. Breton, Before the storm. -175. Dela%Frenuins' 

virgin. In the centre are drawings. 

v««^°?r^ ^' ^^^-^^ Troy, J. de Julienne; Louit Watieau, 377-380. Mornins 

nobleman; 97. Le Bourgmgnon, Cavalry fight; 38. Aved, Mme. de Tencin; 

A.L' ^?"T' ?i'°''^* ^°^!^ ^"^ oaJ^; 226. iya«ier, Due de Boufflers- 
drawings by Ant. Watteau; 2iJl. H. Rigaud, Portrait; 414. Unknown Artit 
Admiral Coligny; 68. Callet, Louis XVL; 37^. Ant. Watteat AnSe Pater 
cSnc'er't' iil^iTT''-' '^^H ^^.^^^^entin (J. de ^o«C«.) Tavern: 
•OAR n'n •• "'* ^/''fn^n^'" '^' ^»<'^' Card-players ; J. B. Pater (p. 46) 
248. Open-air concert, *249. Recreation in the country, 245. Dove^s nest 

lL.x\T ^^^'il'- ^«''^««S4 S*=«°« '° * P"^' ^16. Unknot ArZ: 
Pnni ^r ^?co*'^^^'^*''^= ^^^- ^'olle. Narcissus (marble). 
ttOOM VI. l«2. Layrand, Abbe Liszt: 170 Jordaens CradlP- Ifio 

J. van Euchtenburg, Attack on'a convoy; 34^ /^"^mo Christ Sn the Cris?: 



48 Route 5. VALENCIENNES. 

346. Vnn Tilbnrff, Toper. — '370. ^f. de Vos^ Adoration of the Magi-, 22; 1. 
Murant (l(i22- 1700), Landscape; 61. '■Hell-fire' Jirueghel, Toil devoured by 
I'siiry, and tbe I'eurer devoured by tbe Devil; 23r). Van A'oort, Dead (Jhrist; 
50, 49. Van liloemen, Morses; 334. Snayers, Landscape; 450. Flemish School 
of the 17 fh Cent., Deatli; "^109. Jordaeiis, Twelfth Nip;ht; 217 (above), ./. 
Mompei\ Cattle-market; 9G. P. da Cortona, Herodia.s; *3'<!6. Seghert, St. Kloi 
(Eligius) at the feet of the Virgin. — 312, 313. Rubens des Batailles^ Cavalry 
attacks; 361. Vinc/iboonx{l)^ Large forest-scene; G. 7. Van Aelst, Still-life; 
228, 229. Neeffs the Younger, Church-interiors; 302. Rottenhammer and 
/*. Bril^ Niobe. 

Room VII. 206. Van Mieris, Pan and Syrinx; 11. Van Artevelt, Sea- 
piece; 62. '■11 ell-fire' Brueghel, Christ preaching; 3. Al. Adriaenssens, Fish- 
merchant; i41. Van Goyen, Landscape; 330. Siberechts i'i). Peasants at a 
farm; 69. Calvaert, Pieta; 40. Van Baelen, Abduction of Europa; 124. Van 
J)yck, Portrait; 220. Moucheron, Land.scape; 87. Cornelissen, Charity; 70. 
Alonso Cano, Madonna; 448. Unknown Artist, Madonna and Child v^ith 
St. .Tohn. — 428. T. de Keyser, A family of ship-owners; 71. CarreHo de 
Miranda, Don Carlos, afterwards Charles II. of Spain (d. 1700); 163. //m?/«- 
mans, Landscape; Van Uden., 350. Abduction of Proserpine, 349. Ceres and 
the nymph Cyane; 426. Italian School of the 16(h Cent., Altar-piece; 399. 
Wynants, Landscape; 164. Janssens, Party; 403. Zurbaran, Adoration of the 
Child; 174. Van Laar., Landscape. — The glass cases contain antiquities, 
lace, small carvings, etc. 

Room VIII. 68. ''VelveV Brueghel, Landscape; 306. Rubens, Ecstasy of 
St. Francis of Assisi; 363. Van de Velde, Sea-piece; 237. Van Oost, Ador- 
ation of the Shepherds; 270. Pourbus the Younger, Marie de Medicis; 60. 
Brouwer, Flemish tavern-scene; 303. Rottenhammer, Madonna and Child, 
with St. John and angels, on copper (reduced copy after Andrea del 
Sarto); 269. Pourbus the Younger {1), Portraits of children; 154. De Heem, 
Still-life; '398. Ph. Wovverman, Hunters setting out; 336. Van Son, Still- 
life; *104. De Grayer, Our Lady of the Rosary (1641); 268. Pourbus the 
Younger, Portrait; *314. Saftleven, Landscape; 39. Van Baelen, Blercury 
regarding Herse and Aglaura on their way to the temple of Minerva; 129. 
Fr. Francken the^Elder, Charles V. assuming the monastic dress; 4. Van Aelsl, 
Still-life; 342. Teniers the Younger, Interior of a grotta; *123. Van Dyck, 
Martyrdom of St. .Tames and his converted accuser. — Rubens, "'601, 308, 
309, 310 (on the back), St. Stephen's speech, Stoning of Stephen, Entomb- 
ment of the saint, Annunciation, an admirable triptych, 13-14 ft. high, 
painted in 1623 for the abbey of St. Amand (p. 50). — 1. Van Achen, Judg- 
ment of Paris; 171. Jordaens, Judgment of ^lidas; 172. G. Cesari 
(Cavaliere d'Arpino), Diana and Actseon; 287. Quinkfiard, Interior; 221. 
Moreelse, Portrait; 125, 126. Van Dyck, St. Paul, St. 3Iafthew; *311. Rubens, 
Descent from the Cross ; 110. Cuyp, Raising of Lazarus ; *203. Marinus 
van Romerswael, Banker and his wife; 335. Snyders, Poultry, game, fish, 
and fruit; 250. Martin Pepyn (an Antwerp artist whose works are ex- 
ceedingly scarce; 1575-1646), St. Bernard triumphing over the schismatic 
William of Aquitaine. in presenting the Host to him; 332. Snayers, Wood- 
land landscape; 402. Zuccarelli, Cascades at Tivoli; *51. Bosch (or perhaps 
Peter Huys?), St. Jame.*^ and the sorcerer; 333. Snayers, Landscape; 286. 
Adr. van Utrecht, Christ at Bethany. — 106. De Grayer, St. Peter's repentance; 
337. Soolemaker, Cattle-market. — In the centre, 201. French School ef ca. 
1520 (perhaps School of Amiens, but not by S. Marmion, d. 1489), Panel 
of an ex-voto painting. Sculptures: 44. Garpeaux, Model of the statue of 
Ant. Watteau (p. 47); 559. Hiolle, Arion (gilded plaster). Sevres vases. 

Room IX, on the other side of the sculpture-gallery. No, 224. C. Nan- 
teuil. Sunbeam; 184. Lehoux, Bellerophon, conqueror of theChimsera; 180. 
Layraud, Bulls; 15'2. Harpignies, The valley of the Auipance; 114. Eug. 
Delacroix, Fall of the Titans; 165. Henner, St. Jerome; 296. Roll, Strike 
of miners; 151. Harpignies, The old nut-tree. — Sculptures by Hiolle and 
Garpeaux, etc. 

Room X contains farther works by Garpeaux, chiefly models. 



VALENCIENNES. 5. Route. 49 

The Rue St Gery leads from the N.E. corner of the Place d'Arme 
to the Jardin troissart (PI. C, 3), with a fine marble Statue of Jean 
J^romart, the illustrious chronicler (d. about 1410). The statue is 
surrounded with 10 bronze medallions of eminent natives of the town 

The large Hospital, on the other bank of the Scheldt wa<5 h,„-u ^^ il 

1 F'T.l\^.^^^\f''^ ^/ ^^^ ^^'^^"^ Froissart the Rue des Capucins 
leads to the Place Verte (PI. D, 3, 4), in which is the Musee Gustave 
Crauk, with works andrelicsofthatsculptor(open free onSun.,Mon., 
? i "^. ' *. ''?'',i'°''' ""'' application). At the end of the Rue 
Arthur-Dinaux is the Monument de la Defense de 1793 fPl C D ^^ 

rL?''"^. ^^V^' ''^'^ ''^' '^ '^' ^'^'^ ^«^te, and facing' the 

out In "fh^p'^H '"/7f '^ "''^ Boulevard Carpeaux have been laid 
out on the site of the former ramparts. To the left and right of the 
atter are the Pare dela RhoneUe and the Square de la IJodenne 
(_F1. t, Oj, with the old tower of that name 

.h„r^W?/^^"'^'"A^"^'^' ^'^""^ *^^ ^^^^^«' l^^ds to the principal 
church of the town, iVo«re-Z)ame-dw-^amf- Cordon fPl C 41 This 
interesting modern edifice, built in the style of the 13th cent is 
richly decorated and has good stained-glass windows by Le'veque 

of vS i"nnI^w7th'X\iro^^;r^ °^^^ ^^ -^^^ - *^« nefghboIXd 
Good walTers^I^go as mentioned at p. 46. 

Forest of Raismes%V s\ ^^^^''^''^g^'Z'^^ J'T i)e«m«; while the 

more easily reached. Visitors tTthe rS Ml' «?ic '^^r^P^^ 5"^°^^ ^'''^ 
tramway to the PIrpp ^p P.f= ~f ^ P ■^"''^* ^-^ '^'- ^»*«wc« take the 

the Kt tLv mav L orf'^W ^^^f «°d the Eue du JIarais, and cross 
from Valenciennes r'^St'AmanS *° ^otre-Dame-d^ Amour, on the road 

4fr ^r^X^sfl f''''«f "i^ Maubeogb, 23V. M., railway in liA-lV.hr (fares 
^eL?;,'the chu ch of wiich rnil, '"'' f{ '' *^ ^•^- '«^ fSv/M./^Jv^ris 
The chateau of S/T a liTtt ?o^ hl^^F ^'I'^'^^^r^"' *^" *^^^ ^^ ^t. Druon. 
road, as far as Mm.V s/ A \ / ^-^'r^ ^^^ * ^'"® P^'"'^- Fine view of the 
reach the station of St tv^Z\ °^''i! J^^^^^^ai- F^om this point we may 
a park and marble-quard::'* Thl ^'Ir \^'-' ^f«^>'"-^*' which also has 
Flarnengrie-St-Waast 1fi / at i ^Vl"^i »s„ Picturesque. - 12 M. La 
though inL has o7]v17qq-?T*'<^^''-^''-f^^'^' ^^'- ^^* J/««^«^«m6-;, 
RomansrwhoTalTedit%«JI?i «^-' "^^^ ^ flourishing town under the 
of the K)Tr,-.ni u ^ '^ "* ovBavacum. Destroyed during the invasions 

burt^d'sryS^iLe^ardTaS wIlln^^SiH^^ '' Tf ''^^^'^ 

hilda's Road^' Seven Affh.r^'\--n*'*^^' tboroughfares in the N., 'Brun- 

•re pa.3edJl57/i;»'rr4'^'°_!''^?4»-=^„;/'-"'7«tan. stations 
IUedekkr's Northern France. 5th Edit. 4 



50 

6. From Douai and Valenciennea to Lille and 
Courtrai. 

I. From Douai to Lille. 

20 M. Railway in V2-IV2 lir. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). 

Douai, see p. 41. — The line, running to the N., crosses the 
Canal de la Scarpe. — Beyond (IV4 M.) Pont-de-la-DeHle, whence 
branch-lines run to Orchies (see below) and toPont-a-Marcq (p. 4o), 
important coal-mines are passed and the Canal de la Deule is crossed. 

From (8 M.) Libercourt a branch-line runs to Lens (p. 18), 

either direct or via (3 M.) Carvin (p. 18). Passengers for Lille 
sometimes change carriages here. — From (13 M.) Seclin (Hot. des 
Voyageurs), an industrial town with 6982 inhab., branch-lines ran 
to (91/2 M.) Templeuve (p. 51) and to (8 M.) Don-Sainghin (p. 60). 

151/2 M. Wattignies-Templemars. not to be confounded with 

Wattignies-la-Victoire (p. 74). — 10 M. Lille, see p. 52. 

II. From Valenciennes to Lille. 

291/2 M. Railway in 1-2V4 lirs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c). 

Valenciennes, see p. 46. The line runs at first in the direc- 
tion of the Douai and Paris railway, but soon diverges to the right, 
passing between the forests of Kaismes (p. 46 ) and Yicoigne. 21/2 M. 
Beuvrages; 31/2 M. Raismes -Yicoigne; 5 M. La Foret. 

71/2 M. St. Amand (Hot. de Paris; Mouton Blanc), a town with 
14,454 inhab., situated 1/2 M. to the N. of the station, at the con- 
fluence of the Scarpe and the Elnon, originally grew up around an 
abbey founded in the 7th cent, by St. Amand. Nothing now remains 
of the abbey, except its Portalwith two octagonal pavilions (1632-33) 
partly incorporated with the Hotel de Ville, and the Facade of the 
Church. The latter, a bold construction, consisting of a tower and 
two turrets, was designed by Nic. duBois, who was abbot in 1621-73. 
The Dwelling of the Receveur de CAbbaye, Hue de Tournai 31, should 
also be visited. — Steam-tramway to Valenciennes (p. 46). 

About 2 M. to the SE. (3/4 M. from St. Amand-Thermal; see helow) are 
the Baths of St. Amand (Hotel de V EtabUssement, pens. 6-12 Ir.), with sul- 
phurous water and mud baths, efficacious in cases of rheumatism and 
diseases of the ioints (mud-bath 3, sulphur bath 2 fr. ^ subscription for 
drinking the waters 5 fr.). Season from May 25th to Sept. 15th. 

A branch -railway runs from St. Amand to (15 M.) Blanc- Misseron 
(p, 49), via (8V2 M.) St. Amand-Thermal and (8V2 M.) Fresnes J^. 45). 

Another branch-railway runs to (2OV2 M.) Hellemmes (p. 60) via Cysomg 
(p. 51), Bouvines, and Sainghin-en- Milantois (p. 51). _ n r /,k 

From St. Amand to Todknai, 1G M., railway in 50 min. (fares 2 fr. 45, 

I fr 70 1 fr 15 c ) — 5 M. Maulde-Mortagne is the frontier-station, lo 
the 'right is the fort of Maulde. — 71/2 M. BUharies is the first Belgian 
station. 12 M. Antoivg, with an old Gothic chateau. — 16 M. Tournai, see 
p. 60. 

We now traverse the fertile district of La Pevele ('Pabula'). — 

II M. Rosult, to the left of which is the Chateau du Loir, dating 
from the 15th century. 131/2 M. Landas. At (I51/2 M.) Orchiea 



ROUBAIX. 6. Route. 51 

(Hot. de la Gare) we join the railway from Douai to TournaifD 45^ 
Branch to Somain, see p. 45. ^' 

Another branch, 18i/, M. long, leads to Tourcoing (see below) passinfr 
Cysotng a'h M.) Bomines, celebrated for the victory gained therrbv PhmD 
Augustus over the Emperor Otho IV. in 1214, (12 JL) 24 a"o a station 

r J^y^ M. /^omam. About 31/2 M. to the left lies Mons-en-PevHe 
Cp. 453. — 20 V2 M. Templeuve. 23 M. Frefm, to the right of which 
18 the fort of Sainghin-en-Melantois (p. 50). — We soon join the 
line from Douai (p. 60). — 291/2 M. Lille [see p. 52). 

III. From Lille to Courtrai. 

I672 M. Railway in ^h-UU hr. rfares 2 fr Qn fi. in i f or x 
To O^tena 54'/. M., in 2-4./ hri! (faris 8 f^. 20 's'f?'. 'o% ?.' tV") - F^;om 
?nT? *°-^^ m"V^ *^'' I'^S*^' 208 M., in 5-12 hrs. (35 fr. 70, 24 & 70 16 f? 
oS ;^^^'^J^7Mn^^^°'^ Brussels (R. 11), 270 M., in 7-12V2 hrs (41 fr 65' 
see p.S: ^^ ^'- ^^ '•^- - '''•'^'"^"'^ from' Lille to Ronbair^n! Zrcoing] 

Beyond the fortifications of Lille the line to Courtrai runs on 
towards the N.E. and crosses the Canal de Rouhaix. — 31/9 M 
Croix -Wasquehal. In the distance to the right rises the tallest 
factory-chimney in France (345 ft.). 

6 M. Roubaix. - Hotels. Ferraille, Rue de la Gare 22, R. 3-6, 
D. dV2, omn. 1/2 fr.; MoDERNE, Rue de la Gare 1: d'Islt, Place de la Gare- 
DE Paris, Rue de Lille 4. - Cabs. IV* fr. per drive, 2 or IV2 fr per hoir' 
^nJ.?"'7*^' f.-om the station to Wattrelos (see hhow) JdLannoyT^ 

25^30 cS and"\h^%^'^f '/'f?''^ *" ^^■"^ ^''^ P- 52), TourcoinTQh br 1 
25-30 c.) and the Fare de BarUeux. - American Consul, Joseph E. Haven 

iJonftaix IS an important manufacturing town, the population of 

^^\lVlT. ^™ ^^ ^^^^ '' 1^1 '0^^ i" 1908. It is connected 
with the Scheldt and the lower Deule by means of a canal. The 
iLcoU Nahonale des Arts Industriels is a kind of industrial university 
Tubjectr''' ^""^ * ^''^* ^^"^*^ ""^ industrial, artistic, and technical 

7 M. Tourcoing (Hotel Terminus, at the station; du Cygne, 
urar^e-Flace lb), another busy manufacturing town with 81 671 
inhab practically forms part of Roubaix. A monument commeilior- 
Mo^Vau^n '1794. '^' ^"^^''^ '""^ Austrians here by Jourdan and 

al dSS'^rFJa^cr'yf/^""' the centre of one of the busiest industri- 
durin.! ?e\Tst half c' ,*^^ population of which has increased fourfold 
communes Troir WaSrZl' P'^rp^" *^J?i°«<i ^^ numerous populous 
wool-StactSn/?n wt-V^-?-..^^^ '*^P^^ industry of the district is 
in fh^^^ i,f ^' m which It bears comparison with any other district 

The dis^H'A 'hpoP''T"SS four-nfths of the entire production ?n N Fran"e 
entrpr n^nSbTtaiS '' French Flanders/and its industrious a^d 

and tL F?em?sh t * f a In^v''^?^'°J' m common both with the French 
tional prosperity. ^ ~ combination largely accountable for their excep- 

R'v.'^CharlL" Taull^^^^^^^ "'?*???" ^/°j^' ^^^ t^e Lille road (chaplain, 



4 



Nc 



52 Route 7. LILLE. Practical Notes. 

From Tourcoing a l)ranch-railway runs to (9 M.) Menin, continaing the 
line from Orchies. — 2 M. Tourcoing -les-Francs ; V/-z M. Ilalluin (Pomme 
d'Or), with 16,600 inhab., the last French station. — 9 M. Menin, a Belgian 
fortified town with about 11,700 inhah., is situated also on the line from 
Ypres and Cominos to Courtrai. 

Beyond Tourcoing the frontier is crossed. 13 M. Mouscron 
(buffet), with the Belgian custom-house. — 161/2 ^- Courtrai 
(Hot. du Damier; Royal; Ville de Gand; du Nord), and thence to 
Bruges and Osterid, see Baedeker s Belgium and Holland. 

7. Lille. 

Hotels. •Hotel de l'Eceope (PI. a; E, 3), Rue Basse 30-32, with baths, 
R. from 4, B. I1/2, d^j. 23/4, D. 3V2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Grand-Hotel (PI. e-, F, 3), 
Rue Faidherhe 20-21; Hot. Continental (PI. k; F, 4), Parvis St. Maurice, 
d^j, 3, D. 37'-! ir. ; Central (PI. b; F, 3), Rue Faidherhe 29; de la Paix 
(Pl.g; F, 4), Rue de Paris 46; du Commerce (PI. j ; F, 4), Rue deB^thune 13; 
MoDERNE (PI. 1; F, 4), Parvis St. Maurice 7 ; de Flandre et d'Angleterre 
(PI. c; F, 3), Place de la Gare 13-15; de Paris, Place de la Gare 5-7; 
de Bruxelles et dk Tournai (PL i; F, G, 3), Rue des Buisses 1-3 and 
Rue du Vieux-Faubourg, R. from 2, dej. or D. 2V4, pens. 6-9 fr. ; Gh.- 
HoT. de Lyon (PI. d; F, 4), hotel-garni, Rue du Priez and Eue Faidherhe. 
— Hotel-Buffet at the station, R. from 4 fr., good. 

Restaurants. Divoir, Rue du Vieux-Marche-aux-Poulets 15-17, a la 
carte; Chrand-Hdtel (see above), in the entresol, dej. or D. 31/2 fr. ; also 
at most of the other hotels and many cafes, and the two following 
brasseries: Taverne de Bruxelles (a la carte; plat du jour 75 c, in the 
evening 1 fr.), Taverne de Strasbourg^ Grande-Place 12 and 15. A modest 
repast (IV^'^Va fr.), with beer, may be obtained in many of the Estaminett. 

Cafes-BrasBeries. Jean., Rue Faidherhe 2; Gaf^ du Grand-Rdtel, same 
street; Bellevue, de la Paix^ Moderne, in the Grande-Plaee ; du Boulevard.^ 
Au Coq Lillois, corner of the Rue Nationale and the Boulevard de la 
Liberte; Caf4 du Globe, at the N.W. end of the Boul.. de la Libert^. — 
Taverne de Strasbourg (see above); Brasserie Universelle, Marche-aux-Fro- 
mages 21; Brasserie de V University., Brasserie des Beaux-Arts, Place de la 
Republique. — Automatic Bar, Rue des Ponts-de-Comines 30. — Bar Con- 
tinental, Place de la Gare 11; Bodega, The Savoy (American Bar), Posada 
Wine Company, Rue Faidherhe 29, 5, & 3. 

Cabs: per drive IV4 fr., per hr. 13/4 fr., each succeeding hr. IV2 fr.; at 
night (12-6), 21/2, 3, or 23/4 fr. ; 25 and 50 c. extra for two-horse cabs. 

Tramways, Twenty lines diverge from the Place de la Gare, the 
Place de Tourcoing, or the Grande-Place. Comp. the annexed plan. There 
are two classes on the cars, and the routes are divided into 'sections', for 
each of which the fare is 10 and 15 c. for the first, 5, 10, or 15 c. for each 
additional section. A line runs from the Place de Tourcoing to Roubaix 
(p. 51) in 1 hr. (fares 75 or 50 c, return-ticket 1 fr. or 80 c). 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E, 5), Place de la Republique. Branch- 
office at the station. 

Theatres. Grand-TMdtre (PI. E, 5), Place de Sdbastopol. — Hippodrome 
rPl.p:,F,5), RueNicolas-Leblanc37. — Caf(?8-Concerta : Palais d'Eti, Square 
Dutilleul (Easter-Sept.: 40c.-l fr. 40 c); Casino des Families, at the Brasserie 
Universelle (see above) ; Moulin-Rouge, Avenue de THippodrome. 

Baths. Bains Lillois. Boul. de la Liberty 219; Sociiti du Grand-Balneum^ 
Place de T Arsenal ; Bains de V Europe, at the Hotel de TEurope (1 fr.); 
Bains Parisiens, Rue du Quai 18-20; Swimming Bath (PI. C, 4), Quai V^auban 1. 

English Church {Christ Church; PI. F, 5), at the corner of the Rue 
Watteau and the Boul. de la Liberte; services at 11 and 6.30. Chaplain 
Rev. J. S. Phillips, M. A., Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 16. 

British Vioe-Consul. /. E. Walker. Eue des Stations 95. — American > 
Consular Agent, Christopher J. King, Rue des Stations 97. 







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Hotel de ViUe. LILLE. 7. Route. 53 

LiUe, originaUy L'Jsle, Flem. Ryssel, the chief town of the 
Departement du Nord, and the seat of a university, was formerly 
capital of French Flanders. It is a fortress of the first class, with a 
citadel said to be Vauban's masterpiece, and is situated in a well 
irrigated and fertile plain on the Deule, a navigable river with which 
numerous canals are connected. The population is 205,602 The 
Mus^e (p. 64) in itself repays a visit to Lille. Lille is a very im- 
portant manufacturing place. Its staple commodities are linen and 
wooUen goods, cotton, cloth, 'Lisle thread', machinery oil sugar 
and chemicals. > j & > 

Lille is said to have been founded before the middle of the 11th cent 

%^T,' ^"'^Z'l '^\ '-^^^^ '^^^^ ^y C^^^l«« V. to Louifde Male n' 
1369, and passed by inheritance to the dukes of Burgundy, of whom one 
Phihp the Good made t his residence. In the course of the maSy wars 
that distracted this_ part of Europe, Lille was held successively by the 
Austrians and Spanish and It was taken from the latter by Louis XIV. in 
1667. In 1708 it surrendered, after a gallant resistance, to the Duke of Marl- 

wiiriLce ' nil VL''^'''',^*' ^""^"^l' ^^^^^2' ^°^"y incorporated Lme 
with France. Lille sustained a severe bombardment from the Austrian^ 
at the outbreak of the Revolutionary wars in 1792, but "in vain ^L He 
often burning, IS quenched again; Lille will not yield. The very boys 
deftly wrench the matches out of fallen bombs. . . Memorable also be thlt 

oMf fn^.'n5"''75''''^"°.*^^"^^^'^"* ^^''^^ ^i"^' snatched up a Sherd 
of it, introduced Soap and lather into it, crying, ' Voilii mon plat k barbe 
My new shaving-dish!' and shaved 'fourteen people' on tTe spot The 

Plata barbe became fashionable; 'no Patriot of an elegant ?urn' says 
aLinrbo'Jb'V.T; f«"--^'i«'/^t shaves himself out If the spHn'terTf 
a Lille bomb (Carlyle). - General Faidherbe (18l8-89j was a native of Lille. 

From the station the handsome Rue Faidherbe leads straight 
to the Place du Theatre (PI. F, 3), named after the Grand-Thealtre 
which was burned down in 1903. Thence the Rue des Mannelierl 
runs to the left to the Grande- Place, the centre of the old town 

The Bourse (PL F, 3), a brick and stone edifice, with shops on 
the groundfloor, was begun under the Spanish dominion in 1652 
I he court (apply to the concierge if closed) is surrounded by arcaded 

Cl»54) The Column (Ha Deesse'j in the centre of the Place commem- 
orates the defence of the town against the Austrians in 1792. On 
the side of the Place next the Rue des Manneliers rises the Orand^ 
Garde, built in 1717, and now occupied by the military staff. 

The Hdtel de Villa (PL E, F, 4) was erected in 1847-59 in the 
Renaissance style, though the S. wing dates from Louis XVs reign 
It occupies the site of a palace of the dukes of Burgundy and con- 

Sunl'Tlf ''^^Jfr """"^'^^^^^^ ^^^'000 -^^-5 ^P- to visitors on 
Sun & Thurs^ll-4, to students on week-days 9 a.m.-lO p.m., Sun. 

Thurs',"lO-3)^"''' ""^ ^n^mT;mps and Copies (open Sun.t Wed., & 

rPl ^F*^"'^?;^*^ the Grande-Place, we follow the Rue Nationale 

street to Vb« f\ 1! ^'^ *^ ^'''^ *^' ^^^ *^^°- I" the second 

street to the left are the church of St. Stephen (PI E 4 • 18th cent ^ 

and the Military Hospital (1605), once ^respectively a chapeUnd 



54 Route 7. LILLE. Palais des 

a college of the Jesuits, -while to the right is the Square Jussieu . 
(PI. E, 4), with a monument to Desrousseau.c (d. 1892), a Lille poet. 
The Rue Nationale now intersects the Boulevard de la Liherte' (see 
helow) and leads to the Place de Strasbourg (Pi. D, E, 4), in which 
is a Monument to A. Testelin, organizer of the national defence in 
the N. of France in 1870-71. Farther on is the church of the Sacre- 
Coeur, a new and elegant structure in the Gothic style, of hich the 
tower is not yet completed. 

The handsome Boulevard de la Liherte (PL D-F, 3-5), which 
forms the boundary between the old town and the new quarters built 
in the Parisian style, begins at the Esplanade (p. 60) on the N.W., 
and leads to the S.E. to the extensive Place de la Republique (PI. 
E, 5), in which rises an *Equestrian Statue of General Faidherhe, 
by Mercie. To the N.W. of the Place rises the spacious Prefecture 
(PL E, 4, 6), dating from 1865-70 ; to the S.W., the Hotel des Pastes; 
and to the S.E., the Palais des Beaux-Arts, near which is the Fon- 
taine Vallon. o 'u X 1 
The Rue d'Inkerman leads hence to the S. to the Place Sebastopol 
(PI. E, 5), with the temporary Grand-Theatre (comp. p. 53). 

The Palais des Beaux- Arts (PI. E, F, 5), a striking edifice, design- 
ed by Be'rard and Delmas, was opened in 1892, but represents only 
about one-half of the original plan. The collections which it contains 
are among the most important in France, the *Picture Gallery being 
especially rich in examples of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The 
collections are- open to the public daily from 10 to 4 or 5 (closed 
till 2 on Sat. ; antiquities closed daily 12-2). Entrance on the left. 

Grodnd-Floob. 
Principal Gallery, next the facade: Sculptures. At the entrance, 
FrimieL Knight errant (cast). To the right, in the centre: Leroux, Flower- 
girl-, Andri d'Houdain, Girl; Ohees^L Vittorla Colonna; Samon, Susanna at 
the bath: Michel, Thought; Bosio, Henri IV when a youth (silvered bronze); 
PeynoL The prey; Idrac, Cupid stung (bronze); Huguemn, Hebe;^ Allar, 
Temptation of Eve; Barrias, Model of the Defence of St. Quentin ; m front 
of the door on the right, A. dHoudain, Weighing (cast). — Opposite the 
windows, as we return: Cordormier, Beheading of John the Baptist (bas-re- 
lief in plaster); Michel, Form emerging from matter; Lefehvre, Blind children 
(cast: original at the Luxembourg); LesruelUs, Pastoral; Deplechin , Am- 
nhitrite; Thivier. Fountain of youth (cast) ; A. d'Houdain, Fann^Feugh-e des 
Forts, Goatherd; Chaudet, Bust of Napoleon I. ; Zematre, Clelia, Roman girl. 
— By the 5th window on the left, Fh. Roland, Death of Cato of TJtica 
(bronze). — Also, casts and busts. Glass-case with bronzes. 

The Small Gallery, parallel with the principal gallery, contains 
small Antiquities: vases, sculptures, glass, bronzes, flint objects, etc. 

Left Gallery , facing the entrance : '^Antiquities (/. de Vicq Collec- 
tion) — 1st Baij: Mediseval sculptures. — 2nd Bay: Church plate from the 
12th cent, on, ivory carvings, tapestry. — Srd £«y; Wood-carvings ; enamels, 
carvings in ivory, books with miniatures ; fine 16th cent, tapestry (Esther 
and Ahasuerus). — 4th Bay: Locksmith^s work, reliquaries, enamels, spoons; 
furniture, carvings, tapestry, German altar of the 15th cent.; wooden balus- 
trade. — 5th Bay: Furniture, tapestry; German corporation fountain, m 
pewter; small sculptures, watches, miniatures, ivory-carvings; wax me- 
dallions; bag-pipes (18th cent.); microscope with morocco case (l«th cent.), 
book-bindings; tombstones. 



Beaux-Arts. 



LILLE. 



7. Route. 55 



Rotunda TO THE left. Tapestry and standards. In glass-cases: keys 
of the tovyii, headsman s sword, lace made at Lille, weights and measures 
textiles ; hat, epaulets, and sash of Gen. Faidherbe. - Tbansvkese G.^- 
LEBY. Important Ceramic Collection. — Rotunda to the eight- SevrP.. 
porcelain. ' "^"'^o 

Right Gallery: Ethnographical Collection (Musde Moillet). 

^rJZl.^''^^^^^^''' ''''^ ft ^''''^. ^""^ ^^ *^^ sculpture-gallery, lead to the 
fh?prnin« ^ti""' °/i" ^?,' main entrance, by which we ascend, leads to 
the Pavilion Leleux; the other leads to the Pavilion Brasseur (p. 58). 

Fiest Floor. 
-Picture Gallery (Mnsie de Peinture). The paintings in each room 
are mentioned from right to left. - Pavillon Leleux or Room II. 727 
^^^o'uumhef^mre^ ^'^'" '° ^^^^^y' ^' ^oeckert, Sermon in Lapland. 

Boit LevcLrd cLe icu Liber td 



IPa^dUon^*^ 



. e I e •Luc jEcoleJFlaliiic Uxde ■ STjLcL-Estjj it 



Menet., Waif; 712. Sau 
vaige, Sea-piece; 134. 
Butin, Ex-voto at Hen- 
nequeville. — 1117. 
Zuber, The ravine ; 334. 
Oelhay, Bibliophile; 
1176. Duhem, Peace- 
fulness of night. — No 
number, Leclercq, Ma- 
ternity.— 1182. Duvent, 
The procession; 1183. 
Ouinder^ Children of 
the Virjiin. — Bust of 
Alexandre Leleux, by 
Mme. Defeat. 

Opposite the en- 
trance is the Musee 
Wicar (p. 58) and be- 
side it the — 

Galkrie des Pei- 
mitifs or Room I, com- 
municating with the 
Pavillon Brasseur (p. 
58). Many of the paint- 
ings here are by un- 
identified artists. 989. 
Italian altar-piece (14th 
cent.); Italian School 
932. Holy Family, 990. 

M»,fn*nl*"°|cr/®i?."^; ^}:^'\ool Of Botticelli, Madonna; 998. Jtalian School, 
Maaonna; 657. Qhirlandato, Madonna with the eglantine; 1126. Venetian 
oft?,l "^l^^> r''': f^«f., Portrait : 80. Boni/ano, St. Peter; 1011. French School 
HnlvFn5w Q^' i'^f'*'^', ^^i- ^^««^^ Portrait; 116. ^Velvet^ Brueghel, 
Holy Fanaily; 33. Bellegambe, Trinity; 612. Fourbus the Younger, Portrait- 
foT^'^ '^^^?T' ^2^ SP"°^' ^21. Paying taxes; 1003. Flemish tr?ptvch;' 
JwL', ^^f'*'i^'^ooJ,^^donna; 32. Bellegambe, Mystical press; 578. Va« 

-i&O F,?^-'f.'i *^%^".^V - S9i- ^^^^i«»"''' J«^^ t^e Baptist 'preaching 
1020. Flenmh School, Satirical subject; 318. Francken the /wer. Charles V 
iffi P°L-^^ monastic habit; 983. Flemish School, Tarquin and Lucretiaj 
F^LLn Z rl ^ ^^^"^A'^- t"Pty^^5 813, 812. M. de Vos, Portraits; 317 
ZZl \m l^I'''^l\^J'''?^r?J'^^^ ^*y*^ Calvary; 346. Mabusel Ma- 
53^'mT'/R?'''^^v''r/'.^^"'* ^" *^« ^«^«« «f Simon the Pharisee; 
Fl'elish^honl Rni' Fl'gJit into Egypt; *225. Oer. David, Madonna; 1071 
FlZih School v?'' ^^"''^^•' P- ^' C«--^^^*(?). Pliilip IV. le Bon;' 1022. 
gatTs of thP I'pJe?-"?^ -T^^qI^ *^°"P^^' ^^*^ *^^i^ Pat^«^ saints, at the 
ZKr/«l/, % K*v^ ?'*/■' ^^- ^^emstercA, Allegory of the vices; '^747. 
DtrkBovti, Symbolical fountain; 1046. Dutch farmer^s wife; 1006-1009 




Tlzfe GauUiiep de Chdtiilorv 



56 Route 7. LILLE. Paiai8 des 

Shutters of a Gernum triptych- S. Amherger, Portrait of Kinp. Charles V.; 
497. Israel van Meekenen ('!), Assumption; 905. Wohlgemut (1), Mocking' of 
Christ i 957. German triptych. — This gallery contains also the Collection 
of Coins, in which the I'lemish specimens are esjiecially noteworthy. 

Room III, bpyoiul R. II. '401. Hol'-ein t'le Younger, Charity. — 553. 
Neefa the Elder, Churcli-interior; 144. Camphuysen, Huntsmen resting; '390, 
•391 (farther on), Van der Heht, Portraits; Itjl. Van Ceulen the Elder, Anna 
Maria von Schurmaun (1660); 4U5. Hontliorst, Triumph of Silenus; 906. 
P. Wouvgrinnn, Iluntsmi-n restinfi; 319. Fyt, Animals; 631, 630 (farther on), 
Van Rave^tein, Portraits; 327. Van Geest. Portrait; Zastris, 916. Christ and 
Mary Magdalen, 915. Judith; 218. /. G. Cvyp, The family; 104. Brouweri^i), 
Luncheon; 582. Is. van Ostade, Butcher; 3T0. Fr. Hals, llille Bobbe of 
Haarlem; "328. Van Geest, Dutch family; 406. P. de Hoogh (V), Dutch interior; 
98. Brakenburgh , 'Scene galante' ; .373 JHrk Hals, Domestic scene; 434, 
Koedyck, Interior ; 309. B. FlemalU, Episode in the life of St. Lambert; '-561. 
N. Neuclidtel. J. Neudorfer, the mathematician, and his son. 

Room IV. 426 Jordaens, Isaac blessing Jacob; above, 729. Snydert, 
Boar-hunt; ■*427, Jordaens, Temptation; Rubens, 674. vSt. Bonaventura, 675 
(farther on), St. Francis in ecstasy ; 419. Jordaens, Christ and the Pharisees; 
60. Van Bockhorst, Martyrdom of St. Maurice; 211. De Crayer , Salvator 
Mundi; '287. Van Dyck, Miracle of St. Anthony of Padua (a hungry mule 
kneels before the Host, neglecting the oats placed near him); 423. Jordaens, 
Twelfth Night. — Rubens, 6T7. Providence, *"671. Descent from the Cross 
(ca. 1615), 676. Abundance, 1101. Descent from the Cross (sketch). — «627. 
Er. Quellin and Adr. van Utrecht, Christ at Bethany; "'672. Rubens, Death of 
Mary Magdalen; 288. Van Dyck (?). Portrait: 576. Van Oost the Elder, Portrait-, 
*673. Rubens, St. Francis and the Virgin; 425. Jordaens, Huntsman and dog-, 
693. Ryckaert, Clam-seller; De Crayer, 2U8. The '^uattro Coronati' (four 
early martyrs), 210. The son of Tobias and the angel; *289. Van Dyck, 
Marie de Medicis (ca. 1630). — '286. Van Dyck, Crucifixion. 

Room V. 433. Van Kessel, Smell. — 741. Steen, Fiddler; 603. E. van 
der Poel, Kitchen; 436. S. Koninck, Portrait; 725. Siberechts, Landscape; 796. 
Versteegh, Interior; 579. Ossenbeck, Strolling musician; 316. Franchoys. A 
prior (1645) ; *172. Pieter Codde, Portrait of a young man ; 742. Steen, Dutch 
musician; Brakenburgh, 96. Merry meal, 97 (farther on), After the v?edding; 
724. Siberechis, Ford; 484. Lievens the Elder, Head of ah old man. — 239. 
Delft, Portrait: *686. Jac. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 209. De Crayer, Mira- 
culous draught of fishes (freely retouched); 739. Verspronk, Portrait of a 
young man (1634); 902. De Witte, Charch of Delft; *753. Teniers the Younger, 
Strollers; 982. Unknown Artist (17th Cent.), Portrait; 572. Van Oost the Younger.^ 
Foundation of the Carmelite order. — *761. Teniers the Elder, Dives in hell; 
*173. P. Codde, Conversation; 295. Van den Eeckhout, Tribute-money; 811. 
C. de VosO), Portrait; 162. De Champaigne, Annunciation; '751. Teniers the 
Younger, Temptation of St. Anthony; 237. Van Delen, Portico of a palace; 
483. Lievens the Elder, Salome ; 760. Teniers the Elder, Witch-scene. — *752. 
Teniers the Younger, Rustic interior; De Champaigne, ''163. Holy Night, 164. 
Good Shepherd; 687. /. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 692, 691. S. van Ruysdael, 
Landscapes. 

S. E. Pavilion or Room VI. Van Goyen, 354. Skaters, 352. Windmill; 
583. Is. van Ostade, Skaters. — 329, 330. Geeraerts, Children's games; '770. 
Tilburg, Village festival; 187. D. de Koninck, Fruit and animals; 107. P. 
van Bredael, Fair in Italy. — 392. Van der Heist, Venus; 519. Molenaer, 
Carnival scene. — 18. /. dArthois, Landscape; Van Bloemen, 59, 58 (farther 
on), Views of Rome, 57. Flight into Egypt; 774. A. van Utrecht, Cock-fight; 
520. Molenaer, Bleachfield; 353. Van Goyen, Landscape; *597. Piazzetta, As- 
sumption; 72-<. Snayers, Camp; 16, 17. D'Arthois, Landscapes; 731. Snydert^ \ 
Danish dog; 108. brekelenkam. The inventory. — 539. Ant. More, Portrait j 
567. Ochtervelt, Family meal; 884. Wauters. Prometheus; 216. B. Cuyp,VoT-; 
trait; 105, 106. Van Bredael, Fetes at Antwerp. ' 

Galekie VfiEONESE Or Room VII. *644. Ribera, St. Jerome (1643); 
Dam. Theotocopuli (il Greco), 765. Christ at Gethsemane, 764. St. Francis; 
1021. Spanish School of the 17th Cent.., As.'umption; '917. French School of 
(he 17th Cent., Portrait of an architect; Franc Goya, *349. The young, 350. 



Beaux-Arts. LILLE. 7. Route. 57 

The old 351. The garrote; 470, 1111. Le Nain, Interiors; 804. Vianon (he 
Elder Adoration of the Magi; 616. Pou,sin, Time freeing TrTh from Envy 
and Discord (sketch); Le Valentin (Jean de Boulongne),^2 Soldiers cast- 
ing lots iov the vesture of Christ, 93 (farther on), Mocking of cS: 458 
Lebrun, Hercules and Cacus; Mignard, 512. Madonna, 511 Fortune- 312 
Fra9onard Adoration of the Shepherds (sketch); •451. ZarSr.,' Jean 
Forest, the landscape-painter, father-in-law of the artist- 459 Lehrun(^^ 
Vaaban; 206. A Coypel, Atalide and Roxane (from Racine's ^aiatS'V 665' 
SalvatorRosa Landscape -492. G. Maratta, Dedication of i temple of 

^.5/ro^^t Moses; 9. Caravaggio , St. John; 34. Canaletto , Piazza di San 
*140''^lnntVn?"''S«' j^^^f i«« (^^etch) ; P. Veronese mBniLLlll 
140. Eloquence, *138. Martyrdom of St. George, '141. Science fsnoiledT 
609. Leandro Bassano, Christ expelling the monfy^changers SLr'SS 652' 
Venetian senator, 653. Martyrdom of St. Stephen; 717 ij;^^-™ 
Ksther and Ahasuerus; Domenichino 913. SS. Stephen and Niccolo da 
?fiR rJT' .911-. Vjctorious Cupid, 9li Diogenes; 6§6, Guide ReS^%%yi 
768. Itartm, Rinaldc and Armida. - 738. Spada, Chastity of Joseph 258 

6«« (nephew of Ant. Watteau), Popular festival at Lille in 1789 - Z WamJu 

it £illT^ l^'w^.la,'"?^'7^?N''^fT.^V^^"^' ^'^ (farther on); fedeS on 
■ uoW ^ ^"'^^t^X ^^^- ^"^^^ *t *^e Colisee in Lille, 866 Cavalrv skir- 
mish, 873 Feast of St. Nicholas, 872. Happy family, 879 Fete in 1792 in 

oTA^leSnlr 8fi5'^R'f '^^'^'^^°/^"^^• - ^^^ 

Suelet §.59 'S/ r "^' °I «^*i .<^'«t^es fair at Lille, 868. Fete du Bro- 
f^r^uc I . ^'^r^' Sausage, the painter. - -73. Boilly, Series of 2« por- 
trals executed for a picture of the interior of Isabevs studio - 779 111 

Bronze bust of Bonaparte, by Corbet (1799). 

Room IX. 166. Chardin, Portrait; 552. Nattier, 'Scene ealantp'' —Mm 

Room X ^ 7qf VT^^f- ^''PI*^' " ^^9. Fo,%., Mme. Lienard.^ ^' 
A d.7 n i^^- Pr^^' Antique festival; 669. P. Rousseau, Kitchen- 562 

?t S., y^'i^V 500 J/er5o», 'Le Loup d^Agubbio', the wolf converted bv 
llfi8^;.«';f" f'"«^ Mother feeding her children ('La Becquee- I860) 



58 Roufe 7. MLLE. Palais des Beaux-Arts. 

pignies. Landscape. — *148. Carohis-miran, Assassinated-, 888. WeerU, St. 
Francis of A-'sisi. — Bust of Antoine Hrasseur, by Crauk. 

Pavillon Buasskck or Room XII, at the, head of the staircase men- 
Honed on p 55. 1108. Ile.nri Mnrtin, Fate; 378. Harpignies, Lands'-ape; 
184. Commerre, Samson and Delilah. - No ""m^'er^arontV^ Fishermen 
of Equihen: •45 5. Laugie, Servant of the poor. — *546. C. L. MMer, Not 
this man, but Barabbas'^ no number, E. Breton, Spring. — Aboye, b25. 
Fuvis de Chavannes, Sleep. - 255. Z^^yro/ie, Lesson on the bagpipe; no 
number, Denneulin, Interrupted procession ; 111. E.Breton, Christmas; 910. 
Yon, Landscape; 18S. P. de Koninck. Child exposed on the water to test the 
faithfulness of its mother; above, 499. Merlon, Vision. — 865. Ouillaumet, 
Arab market; above, 656. Rochegrosse, Nebuchadnezzar. 

MosfeE WiGAR. This room, parallel to the Galerie des Primitifs (p. 55), 
contains the valuable •'Collection of Drawings, formed by the painter J.B. 
Wicar (b. at Lille in 1762, d. at Rome in 1884), and bequeathed by him 

to his native city. ^ ^^ , , . „ , ^, xtx t 

The collection, which includes 2838 examples chiefly of the great Italian 
masters, is arranged in schools, the masters of each being placed m accord- 
ance with the dates of their birth. Besides drawings by Andrea delSarto, 
Bandinelli, Caravaggio, Annihale Caracci, Correggio, Carlo Dolcx, Domeni- 
chino Finiguerra, Fra Bartolomeo, Oiacomo Francia, Ghtrlandato, Gxotto, 
Guercino, Guido lieni, Giulio Romano, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Masnccxo, 
Parmigianino, Perugino, Salviati, Tintoretto, Veronese, Cranach, Holbein, 
Barer, and many other masters, the collection includes 8 by Titian 196 by 
Michael Angela (chiefly architectural designs), and 68 ascribed to Raphael. 
Of these last the best are: 479. Study for the 'School of Athens ; 441. 
Christ crowning the Virgin, sketched from some of his fellow-pupils; 474. 
Coronation of St. Nicholas of Tolentino, an exquisite design tor an altar- 
piece on panel; 458. Holy Family, on the back of which is an autograph 
letter Titian's drawings include a sketch for the painting of the Cornaro 
family (580). — This collection also includes a famous **Head of a girl, in 
wax, ascribed by' Wicar to the age of Raphael, but more probably a 
Roman work of the 16th cent.; the drapery of the bust is of terracotta. 
Among the other works of art exhibited here are a bas-rehef in marble 
by Donatello (Beheading of John the Baptist) and a child's head in terra- 
cotta ascribed to Donatello, but more probably perhaps by Verrocchio. 

The Musie Lapidaire, in the basement, contains baptismal fonts ot the 
12th cent., tombstones, Madonnas of the 14th and 15th cent., etc. 

Beyond the Palais des Beaux-Arts, at the corner of the Rue 
Watteau, is the tasteful English Church (PI. F, 5; p. 52). The Rue 
de Valmy leads hence to the S.W. to the Place Philippe-le-Bon (PI. E, 
5 6) in which rises a Monument to Pasteur (1822-95). At the end 
of the Place is the church of St. Michel (PI. E, 6), with an interior 
decorated with paintings from the life of the saint. To the left is the 
Quartier des Facultes (PL F, 5), accommodating in separate build- 
ings the faculties of medicine, science, law, and literature of the 
University of LiUe. Farther on, to the right, are the Jnstitut In- 
dustrie and the Institut des Sciences Naturelles; to the left, the Ro- 
manesque Protestant Church and the Synagogue. 

The Rue Jean-Bart leads E. past these modern buildings -and 
debouches on the broad Boulevard des Ecoles, at the end of the 
Boulevard de la Liber te:, opposite the Ecole des Arts et Metiers (PI. 
Ct, 5, 6), a monumental edifice, completed in 1900. Adjoining, in 
the Boulevard Louis-Quatorze, is the Institut Pasteur, resembling 

that in Paris. -^ i v • 

The Boulevard Papin, running to the N. before the Ecole, brings 



St. Maurice. LILLE. 7. Route. 59 

us to the Porte de Paris (PI. F, 5), formerly included in the old 
fortifications. The gate was built in 1682 in the form of a triumphal 
arch in commemoration of the union of Frencli Flanders with France. 
The sculptures were restored and the formerly plain inner fagade 
embellished in 1890-95. 

The Rue de Paris (PL F, 4, 6) leads hence, to the N., to the centre 
of the old town, with its tortuous and narrow streets, passing close 
to St. Maurice (see below) and near the railway-station. To the E. 
from the Porte de Paris are the Square Ruault, with the old Hotel 
du Genie, and the old Hopital of St. Sauveur (PI. G, 6, founded in 
1216; 250 beds). Near the latter are the church of St. Sauveur, re- 
built in 1901 after a fire in 1896, and the Noble Tour, a keep of the 
15th century. 

The church of *St. Maurice (PI. F, 4), at the end of the Rue de 
Paris and not far from the station, was built in the Flamboyant style 
in the 14-15th cent, and was restored in 1872. 

St. Maurice is almost the only important building in Lille that has 
survived the wars of the middle ages. Above the W. portal, which has 
been rebuilt, rises a fine stone open-work spire. When the W. door is 
closed visitors enter by a door to the right of the choir. The interior is 
distinguished by the width of the nave and the double aisles, which are 
all of the same height, by the lightness of its columns, and by its richness 
of effect. The modern high-altar is in the Gothic style. 

The Rue Esquermoise (PI. E, 3), running to the N.W. from the 
Grande-Place and continued by the broad Rue Royale, prolongs the 
main artery of traffic in the old town. 

From the junction of these two streets the Rue de la Barre leads to 
the W. to the E.splanade (p. 60), passing a little to the S. of the Gothic 
church of St. Catharine (PI. E, 3), built in the early 16th cent, and enlarged 
in 1725. The church contains a *Painting of the Martyrdom of St. Catha- 
rine, by Rubens (near the entrance). 

From the Rue Esquermoise we proceed through the Rue Basse 
(right) and the Rue du Cirque (left) to Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille 
(PI. E, F, 3), a church in the style of the 13th cent., designed by 
the London architects H. Glutton and W. Burges, and begun in 1855. 
The building was planned on so ambitious a scale that little has 
been completed. — The Rue Basse leads farther on towards the 
Lycee Faidherhe (PI. F, 3), which contains a Natural History Museum 
(adm. 10-5). 

In this neighbourhood are the Mus4e Commercial (PI. F, 3 ; Rue du Lom- 

..,.h ^P''" ^0'*) ^^^ t^® "Po^<« <^e Rouhaix or St. Maurice (Pi. G, 3), built 
m 1622 but altered in 1875. 

To the N. of the Lyce'e is the Place St. Martin, with quaint old 
houses. Farther on, at No. 32 Rue de la Monnaie, is the Hospice 
Comtesse, founded in 1230 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders, but 
dating in its present form from the 15th century. Beyond it is the 
Palais de Justice (PI. E, F, 2; 1837), situated on the Basse-Deille, 
a canal spanned a little farther on by the Pont-N€uf(P\. E, 2; 1701). 

The Halle au.T Sucres (PI. E, 2), close bv, contains an Induitrial Mu- 
seum, open 10-4 (Tues. 2-4). — The Eglise de la Madeleine (PI. F, 2), a domed 



60 Route 7. LILLE. 

church in the Greek style (1675), contains a painting by Rubens (Adoration 
of the Shepherds) and one by Van Dyck (Crucifixion), both spoiled by re- 
storation. This church has also several other interesting puintings, a line 
iron choir-screen, etc. — The Chapel of the Public Hospital (PI. E, F, 1), 
close by, contains an Adoration of the Shepherds by Van Dyck. — The 
church of St. Andri (PI. D, 2), an 18th cent, building in the Rue Royale, 
contains a line contemporary pulpit, busts, paintings, etc. 

The Esplanade (PI. D, 2, 3) extends in front of the Citadel (no 
admission), which will soon be the only relic left of the fortifications 
of Lille built by Vauban. At the N. end of the Esplanade is a bronze 
statue, by Th. Bra, of General Negrier (PI. D, 2)-, farther to the S. 
is a Music Pavilion (military band on Sun. & Thurs. afternoons in 
summer) ; and at the end of the Boulevard de la Liberte (p. 64) is 
the Jardin Vauban (PL D, 3, 4), a public garden in which concerts 
are given in summer (adm. 50 c). On the other side of the canal, 
to the left, is the Jardin de la Citadelle (PI. C, 3), continued by the 
Bois de la Deule (Cafe'-Restaurant), the Race Course of Canteleu, 
and the handsome quarter of the Hippodrome, much frequented in 
summer. 

The Boulevard Vauban (PI. 0, D, 4, 5), beginning at the Jardin 
Vauban (see above), passes in front of the Palais Rameau (PI. D, 4; 
exhibitions, etc.) and the College Libre St. Joseph. Near this point, 
to the right of the Boulevard Vauban , rises the huge Vniversiti 
Libre (PI. C, 4, 5), in the Gothic style, with five faculties. 

The church of Notre-Dame-de- Consolation (PI. B, C, 4) has a richly 
adorned interior and a curious pulpit, representing a ship in full sail. 

From this neighbourhood we may return to the centre of the 
town by the tramway (comp. the Plan). 

From Lille (Calais) to Valenciennes., Aulnoye, Hirson, and Nancy, see 
pp. 51, 50, 65-67. 

From Lille to Touknai fBrussels), 15V2 M., railway in 35-50 min. (fares 
2 fr. 85, i fr. 90, 1 fr. 20 c). — 2V2 M. Hellemmes (p. 50) ; 5 M. Ascq, also a station 
on the line from Orchies to Tourcoing (p. 51). — 8 M. Bais^eux is the last 
French, and (11 M.) Blandain (buffet) the first Belgian station, at each of 
which there is a custom-house. — 151/2 M.Tournai Ci/d<eidc r/Tnp^ra^nce,- 5e«e- 
lue; de la Nouvelle-Bellevue ; de Eollande), aee Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 

From Lille to Bi5;tuune (Abbeville), 251/2 M., railway in 1-13/4 hr. 
(fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). — The line skirts the S. of Lille, halting at 
the three Fortes. — 51/2 M. loos, a town with 10,640 inhab., is situated near 
an ancient Cistercian ^66e2/, said to have been founded in 1140 by St. Ber- 
nard, and now used as a prison. — 7 M. Haubourdin, with 8828 inhab. 
(branch-line to St. Andr4-Us-Lille, p. 65). 10 M. Wavrin, junction for Lens 
and Armentieres (see p. 18) -, 12 M. Bon-Sainghin, junction for Lens (p. 18), 
Henin-Lietard (p. 18), and Seclin (p. 50). 17 M. La Bassie, a small industrial 
town, on the line of canals extending from the Deule to Aire, St. Omer, and 
Gravelines, — 181/2 M. Violaines. Branch-lines to Pont-d,-Vendin and to Bully- 
Grenay (p. 18). — 25^2 M. Bdthune, see p. 18. 

From Lille to Ypres, 22^/2 M., railway in 1-23/4 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 60, 
2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 70 c). From Lille to (81/2 M.) La Madeleine., see p. 65. — Id M. 
Comines (Hdlel det Trois-Rois), with 8431 inhab., the last French station, 
was the birthplace of Philip de Comines (1445-1509), the celebrated chron- 
icler. The Lyt, upon which it is situated, is the boundary between 
France and Belgium. — 14 M. Comines (Belgian station), with the custom- 
house. — 22V2 M. Ypres, see p. 17. 



61 



8. From Paris to Cambrai. 



a. Via, Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny. 

I28V2M. Railway in 31/3-6 hrs. (fares 23 fr. 30, 15 fr. 65, 10 fr. 30 c ) The 
chief points on this route are Compiegne (p. 6S) and St. Quentin fp 71) — 
The trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. B, C, 23, 24; p. 1). 

To {iil^ I 2M.) Busigny, see pp. 67-73. — Our line soon diverges 
to the left from the main line (to Namur; R. 11). The chief station 
passed is (II8V2M.) Caudry (Hot. deVEurope,- deVVnivers; des 
Voyageurs), a manufacturing town (11,066 inhab.), with a church 
containing a flne copper- gilt reliquary of the 15th century. — 
I28V2 M. Cambrai, see p. 62. 

b. Via, Creil, St. Just, and Peronne. 

1211/2 M. Railway in 4-53/4 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 5, 14 fr. 90, 9 fr. 65 c). 

From Paris to (491/2 M.) St. Just, see pp. 67, 68 and 24, 23. The 
line here turns to the N.E. and begins to traverse a flat and 
monotonous district. — 551/2 M. Maignelay-Montigny. Maignelay 
has a flne church of the 16th century. 

621/2 M. Montdidier (Buffet-Hotel; Hot. St. Eloi; du CygneJ, a 
town with 4443 inhab., on a slope above the Don, is said to have 
been named by Charlemagne in memory of his captive the Lombard 
king Didier, who was at first imprisoned here. The church of St. Pierre 
(1475) contains a tomb and font of the 11th cent., and a 'Holy 
Sepulchre'. The church of St. Sepulcre, of the 15th and 17th cent., 
with a modern portal, contains a 'Holy Sepulchre' of the 16th century'. 
In the Palais de Justice are six flne Brussels tapestries of the 
17th century. Parmentier (1137 -ISIS), the chief advocate of potato- 
culture in France, was born at Montdidier, and is commemorated 
by a statue there. 

frn J^w^'77-^*? Comi)i^5;»f and Amiens, see p. 70. - A local branch-line runs 
from Montdidier to (87V2 M.) Albert (p. 21) via (171/2 M.) RosUres (p. 64) 

• ^fJi^' ^^^® ^^^^' ^^ ^y9ne-de-la- Croix; du Commerce), a town 
with 4d82inhab., carries on an extensive trade in the grain raised on 
the Santerre, the fertile plateau which the railway traverses beyond 
the town. The church of <Sf^ Pierre was built partly in the 11th 
partly in the 16th century. Branch to Compiegne, see p. 69 

8272 M. Chaulnes (Hot. de la Gare) has also a station on the 
line from Amiens to Chalons-sur-Marne (p. 64). The village, 3/. M. 

Q«H*' ^*^ * "^^^"^"^ Chateau and an 18th cent. Church. 

8bi/2 M. Marche'lepot. The railway enters the valley of the 

bomme, and beyond (93 M.) Peronne-la-Chapelette crosses the canal. 

Ar.ol^' ^-Z^^^^^^e (^oU St. Claude; des Voyageurs), a town with 

1 qAc ? ' '^ situated on the Somme. Its fortifications were razed 

m iyUb-7. 

aster^v'fotJnded'hf fhfT-^?^* """J^" *^°^ ^*^ *^^ ^^^^ of a celebrated mon- 
astery founded by the Irish monk St. Fnrsy (d. 650). In the 9th and 10th cent. 



62 Routed. CAMBRAl. 

it belonged to the counts of Verniandois, one of whom confined King 
Charles the Simple here from 923 till his death in 929. The cell in which 
the unfortunate captive is said to have been starved to death is still pointed 
out Charles the Bold captured the town in 1465, and when Louis XI. came 
in 1468 to conclude an agreement with him, he imprisoned that monarcli 
for two days in the castle, in revenge for his having stirred up the town 
of Liege to revolt. Louis was compelled to sign the disadvantageous ireaty 
of Peronne'. and we are told that tame jays and pies used to be taught to 
crv 'P<5ronne' and 'Perette' in derision of the king\s unfortunate policy. 
Louis however, retook the town in 1477. A statue commemorates Mane 
Fouri (more accurately Catherine de Poix), who distinguished ^e^self m 
the successful defence of the town against t^i^ Duke ."f Nassau in lodb. 
The fortress was captured in 1815 by the Duke of Wellington , and in 1«TU 
it capitulated to the Germans, after a week's bombardment. 

The church of St. Jean (1509-25) has a fine portal and some 
good railings and stained glass. The Hotel de Ville contains a small 
Musee [adm. 50 c. ; on Sun. gratis). The Chateau consists of four 
heavy mediajval towers. 

Railway to Albert and to Ham via, Atkies^ see p. 21. 
From (102 M.) Roisel branch-lines diverge for (5 M.") Hargicourt 
and for St. Quentin (p. 71), and from (lO*^ ^/;) ff^'^f ,^?,<?*J^^'' 
121/2 M. long, runs to Vein (p. 21). Beyond (II2V2 M.) Villers- 
Plouich we cross the Scheldt and its canal. 

116 M. Marcoing. Branch-line to (IV4 M.) Masnieres {l(6b m- 
hab.). Railway to Achiet and Bapaume, see p. 21. 

121 1^ M Cambrai. — Hotels. Hotel Boisst, de Fkance, dv Cygnk 
ET DU SoLEiL d'Or, all in the Place aux Bois; IloT. de l'Europe, 69 Rue 
des Liniers. — Railway Restaurant. - Cabs. Per drive 80 c., d.pers. 1 tr. ~U, 
4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c. ; per hour, IV2, 2, and 21/2 fr. - Electric Tramways. - Post 
Office, Rue Vanderburch 13. ^ ^ > 

Cambrai has three railway-stations: Gare Centralef Gar e Annexe, on 
the Somain line; and Gare du CambrMs, for the Le Cateau line. 

Cambrai, a town with 27,832 inhab., and the seat of an archbishop, 
is situated on a slope on the right bank of the Scheldt. _ 

Cambrai is generally identified with the Camaracum of the Antonme 
Itinerary. It afterwards became the capital of a small episcopal province. 
The bishops, often at strife with the people, confided the defence of their 
rights first to the dukes of Burgundy, afterwards to the German emperors, 
who acted as 'chatelains\ The League of Cambrai directed against Ven- 
ice, was formed here in 1508 between the Emperor Maximilian, Louis Xll 
Pope Julius II., and Ferdinand of Aragon; and m 1529 Margaret of Austria 
and Louise of Savoy, acting respectively for Charles V. a°/.J/^°5;^/-' 
signed here the 'Paix des Dames\ In 1595 Cambrai opened its gates to 
the Spaniards, but in 1678 Louis XIV. recovered it by the treaty of Nim- 
wegen. In 1815 it surrendered to the Duke of Wellington. Fenelon 
(1651-1715) and Cardinal Dubois, minister of Louis XV., were archbishops of 
Cambrai-, and the chronicler Enguerrand de Monstrelet (1400-1453) was born 
here, cimbrai gives its name to 'cambric', a fine ^^^n <5loth or musl n, 
invented in the 15th cent, by Baptiste Coutaing, and f ^^ f °^«^^^*^f,,f ^^^ 
products of the town. The French call it 'batiste , after the inventor. 

As we enter the town from the central station, which lies to the 
E., beyond the old fortifications, we pass (on the left) the hand- 
some new College and the Citadel, and then the pleasant Jardin de 
I'Esplanade, embellished with statues of Baptiste Coutaing and ot 
Monstrelet (see above). The street goes on to the Place aux Bois 



CAMBRAI. 8. Route. 63 

and the Place d'Armes, in which is the Hotel de Ville, a large and 
handsome modern edifice, with a fafade sculptured by Hiolle of 
Valenciennes. The Belfry, in the Rue St. Martin, farther on, to 
the left, dates from the 15th and 18th centuries. 

The Cathedral, or church of Notre- Dame, farther on, to the left, 
an abbey -church of the 18th cent. (rebuUt since 1859), contains 
statues of F^nelon and Bishop Belmas, by David d' Angers, and eight 
large paintings in grisaille after Rubens, by Geeraerts of Antwerp. 
Facing the exit from the cathedral is the Chapelle du Grand 
Se'minaire, a former Jesuit college (17th cent.). The street to the 
right of it leads to the Rue de I'Epee, at No. 15 in which is a Musee 
(adra. free on Sun. and holidays, 11-3 or 4; on other days fee), with 
paintings chiefly of the Dutch and French schools. 

In the Place Fe'nelon rises the church of St. Gery, built in the 
18th cent., with a tower 250 ft. high and a dome over the crossing. 
It contains a fine marble rood-screen (below the organ), some antique 
oak medaUions (in the choir), and several paintings, including an 
Entombment ascribed to Rubens. 

The Chateau de Selles, on the banks of the Scheldt, at the N.W. 
corner of the town, is of very ancient origin, but successive re- 
storations extending back to the Uth cent, have entirely altered it. 
We may return hence to the Place aux Bois by a street passing near 
the Porte Notre- Dame, the finest of the town-gates, dating from the 
Spanish period (17th cent). — The Public Library, with 49,640 vols, 
and 1423 MSS., occupies an old chapel in the Rue Gambetta, near 
the Place aux Bois (open on week-days, 2-4 and 6-8). 
OK /f^^RH^^^^x^^." '^^ I^ODAi, 16 M., railway in 50 min. (fares 3 fr. 25, 2 fr 
^0, 1 Ir. DUc). Unimportant stations. From (8V2 M.) Aubigny-au-Bac a branch 
runs to Somatn (see p. 45). — 16 M. Douai, see p 41 

fifr^S^^ ^rr^VJ" ^^^' ^^°^^^' ^^^^ railway' in IV2-2V4 hrs. (fares 
LI f25M' t RR.'^S-M^ «^ yi^Solesme, (I3,/, m. 5 p. 78), and LeQues- 
noy (25 M.; p. 66). ^ZJL. Bavai (p. 49). - The railway goes on to (12 M.) 
/>o«r, in Belgium via (5 M.) Roisin , where the Belgian custom-house 
examination is made. 

4 fr^m"q^/''o^^o''/'Xn''^^"f?'''^^' ^ *^-' railway in 1-1 Vz hr. (fares ca. 
fni, V^ ^''- ^\^ ^'■- ^° ^•^- /2 M. Camhrai-Annexe. The most important 
sugar-refinery in France is situated at Escaudoeuvres (1000 workmen) — 8 M 
Bouchatn a small place on the Scheldt, with a church of the 12th, 15th, and 
7th centuries. _ lu /^ M. Lourches, with glass-works. - 151/2 M. Somain 
Lp. 4j). — 28 M. Valenciennes, see p. 46 

Ban™? Cambrai to Le Catean, see p. 73; to Amiens via Marcoing and 
oapaume, see pp. 62 and 21. 

9. From Amiens (Calais, Boulogne) to Chalons-sur- 
Marne (Bale) via Laon and Rheims. 

.ee R Y' ^Frn^^/°•^'^'-'"^//^^''• TJ^'^'^ <^^^1^^« a^d Boulogne to Amiens, 
fr i5\Tr qoT/'"'^"' to Laon, 67 M., in I3/4-81/3 hrs. (f!res 12 fr. 10 
fr' 95 2 fr 5^ ;\" ~ ?'°°' h^^""- *° ^^'*""' 32 ^^^ ^° l-lVs hr. (5 fr. 80 

6 fr. 46, 4f;. 30!'^2 f7 So'" ' '° "' ^^^^ ^° ^ "''"'^'/^ '^'• 

ervS'in"l"fiW i^T r^^ ^V^! direct route from London to Bale (dav- 
ervice in IS'A brs., tares il. Us. dd., 31. 5s.; night-service in I43/4 hrs., 



64 Route 9. LA FERK. 

U. 17«. 6d., 3/. Is. 4d. ; tickts valid for 15 days; no 3rdcl.). — Another 
and somewhat lonj^er flervicc (18'/2 hrs.) runs via Calais, Lille, Douai, 
Cambrai, St. Quentiu, and Laon (same fares). 

Amiens, see p. 24. — We diverge to tlio left beyond Amiens 
from the line to Paris, and cross the line from Paris to Arras. — 
5 M. Blangij-Olisy. IOI/2 M- Villers-Bretonneux, an industrial town 
with 4636 inhab., was the scene of one of tlie main engagements in 
the battle of Amiens (see p. 26), in wliich the French Arm^e du 
Nord was routed. — The fertile district of Santerre is now traversed 
and several small stations are passed, including (19V2 M.) Rosieres, 
the junction for Montdidier and Albert (p. 61). — 23V2 M. Chaulnes 
has also a station on the line from Paris to Cambrai (see p. 61). — 
29 M. Nesle (Hot. du Lion-d'Or; 2602 inhab.) is a town of con- 
siderable antiquity, with a church partly in the Romanesque style 
of the 13th century. 

361/2 M. Ham (Hotel de France), a small town (3233 inhab.) with 
a Castle dating from the 13th cent., the donjon of which ('Tour 
du Conne'table'), 110 ft. broad and 110 ft. high, has walls 35 ft. thick. 
Here Louis Napoleon was confined, after the failure of his attempt at 
Boiilogne, from 1840 till his escape in 1846. The church of Notre- 
Dame, partly Romanesque, restored in the 18th cent., the Library, and 
the Belfry, formerly a church-tower, may also be noted. A statue 
of General Fay (1775-1825), who was born at Ham, stands in the 
Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, where also is a small Musee. ^ 

Beyond (42 M.) Flavy-le-Martel (1810 inhab.) we join the line 
from St. Quentin and follow it in the direction of Paris. 

49 M. Tergnier, see p. 71. Here our line turns to the E. and 
crosses the Crozat and Oise Canals and the river Oise. 

521/2 ^1- I-a Fere (Hotel de V Europe), a fortified town with 
4745 inhab. on the Oise, was bombarded and taken by the Germans 
in 1870. it has a school of artillery founded in 1719. The Eglise 
St. Montain (15th cent.) contains the tomb of Marie of Luxembourg 
(d. 1546). The Musee d'Aboville, on the Esplanade, contains about 
500 paintings bequeathed to the town by the Countess d'H^ricourt 
(d. 1875), few of them of great value and several injured by the 
bombardment. It is open to the public on Sun., 2-4; on other days 
on application. Catalogue, 1 fr. 

From (56 M.) Versigny a branch -line runs to (13V-2 ^1-) Llercy 
Mortiers (p. 78), through the valley of the Serre. 

67 M. Laon, see p. 75. — Beyond Laon Guignicourt (p. 83) 
and other small stations are passed, and the Aisnc and the Suippe' 
are crossed. 

99 M. Eheims, see p. 84. The through -trains to Switzerland j; 
do not enter the terminus at Rheims ; passengers for that town change i 
carriages at the station of Betheny, 

Beyond Rheims the line ascends the valley of the Vesle to St. 
Hilaire, traversing the monotonous plains of the Haute Champagne. 



ARMENTlfeRES. 10. Route. 65 

— 1071/2 M. Sillery, noted for its wine. — To the left of the station 
of (II71/2 M.] Mourmelon stretches the immense Camp de Chdlons 
(29,660 acres), established in 1857 by Napoleon III., and before 
1870 a very important military centre. It is still used for manoeuvres. 

— At (124 M.) St. Hilaire-au-Temple the line to Metz via Verdun 
diverges to the left (p. 90). We cross the Rhine and Mame Canal 
and the Marne. 

134 M. Ch&lons-sur-Marne, see p. 103. 

From Chalons the Swiss expresses go on to (161 M.) Bleame^ see pp. 105, 
106; thence to (218 M.) Chatmiont, see R. 46; thence to (330 M.) Sel/orL see 
pp. 318-322; and thence to (380 M.) Bdle vid Mulhauten, see p. 324. 

10. From Calais (London) to Nancy (Strassburg) vi& 
Lille, Valenciennes, Hirson, and Longuyon. 

301 M. Railway, direct in summer in 141/2 hrs, — From Calais fGare 
Central e) to Lille, 66V2 M., in I1/2-4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 10, 8 fr. 10, 5 fr. 25 c ) 
— From Lille to Valenciennes, 29V2 M., in IV2-2V4 hrs. (5 Ir. 40 3 fr. 65 
3 fr. 35 c). — From Valenciennes (0 Nancy, 205 M., through-train in 
summer in 71/2 hrs. (fares 36 fr. 65, 24 fp. 80, 16 fr. 20 c). — From Lon- 
don io Nancy by this route, 13V4 hrs.; via Amiens, Laon, Rheims, and 
Chalons (R. 9), 14 hrs. (Ist cl. fare by either route 3^. 16«. id.). 

Calais, see p. 3. — From Calais to (371/2 M.) HazebroucJe, see 
pp. 15-17. We leave the line from Paris to Arras on the right. 

4672 M. Bailleul (Faucon), a curious and picturesque Flemish 
town with 13,573 inhab., largely engaged in the production of hand- 
made lace. The belfry of thQ Hotel de Ville dates from the 15-17th 
cent, the church of St. Vaast from the 14th and 17th. The Musee 
contains a small collection of paintings and antiquities. 

531/2 M. Armentieres (Hot. du Nord, R. 2-5, D. 3 fr. ; de Paris), 
a prosperous manufacturing town with 28,613 inliab., is situated on 
the Lys, near the frontier. Its principal product is table-linen. Rail- 
way to Lens (Arras), see p. 18. 

A branch-railway runs from Armentieres to (2IV2 M.) Berguette (p 17) 
P*fVVf.,*^® ^™*^^ *°^^°^ ^^ ^^ ^-^ Lavenlie, (8V2 M.) La Gorgue- Estaires, 

— i y^ ^-^ ^^- ^^«"^- — Another branch runs to (10 M.) Comines (p. 60), 
via (2 M.) Houplines and (3V2 M.) Le Touquet, the frontier-stations. 

From (61 1/2 M.) St. Andre a branch runs to Haubourdin (p. 60). — 
621/2 M. La Madeleine, an industrial place (13,522 inhab.), whence 
a branch runs to Ypres (p. 17). — We cross the Deule and join the 
lines from Tournai, Valenciennes, Paris, and Be'tliune. 

66V2 M. Lille, see p. 52. — From Lille to (96 M.) Valenciennes 
ill the reverse direction, see pp. 50, 51. 

Beyond Valenciennes we leave the line to Manbeuge (p. 49) 
to the left, and the Une to Le Cateau via Solesmes (p. 78) and the 
Canal of the Scheldt to the right. — 98V2 M. Le Poirier, with iron- 
works. — 100 M. Maing-Famars. Famars (Fanum Martis) occupies 
the site of a Roman colony, excavations on which in 1824 yielded 
no fewer than 30,000 objects (jewels, coins, trinkets, etc.). 

Bakdkkek'9 Northern France. &th Edit. ^^ 



66 Route 10. niRSON. 

106 V2 M. Le ^tiesnoy (Hotel du Orand-Paris), a fortress witli 3941 
iiiliab., belonged successively to Hairiault, Burgundy, and Austria, 
before the Treaty of the Pyrenees united it finally with France in 
1659. Of its numerous sieges the cliief is that of 1793, wlien the; 
Austrians captured it after a bombardment of ten days, which laid 
two-tliirds of the town in ruins. It was, liowever, recovered by thej 
Republican troops in 1794. After the battle of Waterloo the Dutch 
garrisoned Le Quesnoy until 1818. About 1^4 M. to the N.E. is the 
small Chateau de Poteile, a well-preserved reli(; of the 14th century. 
— Railway to Cambrai and to Bavai, see p. 63. 

We next traverse the Forest of Mormal (23,000 acres), and beyond 
(116 M.) Berlaimont (p. 74) cross the Sambre. 

117 M. Au^noye (p. 74). The railway continues in an E. 
direction. The canalized Sambre is crossed, and the country traversed 
is picturesquely diversified. — Several small stations. 

1231/2 M. Avesnes (Hotel du Nord; de la Oare), on the Helpe, a 
town with 6013 inhab., and at one time fortified, suffered severely 
in the wars of the 15-16th centuries. The Church of St. Nicholas 
(13-16th cent.) has a tower 200 ft. high. The Fondation Villien 
contains a small museum of antiquities, etc. Wool-spinning is an 
active industry in the neiglibourliood, centring at Avesnelles., the 
next station. — Railway to Sars-Poteries (Maubeuge), see p. 74. 

133 M. Fourmies (Hot. de la Providence; Grand- Hotel), a town 
with 13,876 inhab. and an active woollen industry, is the junction 
for Valenciennes via Maubeuge (see p. 74). — 137V2 M. Anor 
(p. 78). . 

1411/2 M. Kivson (Buffet- Hotel; Hotel de laPoste; du Commerce). 
a town with 8541 inhab., on the Oise, is noted for its basket-making. 
We here pass from the Chemiti de Fer du Nord to the Chemin de 
Fer de I'Est. 

From PIirson to Revigny (Bar-le-Due), IO5V2M., railway in 573-63/4 lirs, 
(fares 19 fr. 15, 12 fr. 95, 8 fr. 40 c). By some trains there are long waitf 
at Amagne-Lucquy, Vouzierg, or Ste. Menehould. — 2^2 M. Aubenton (Lior 
d'Or), at tlie confluence of the Aube and the Thon, is engaged in wool- 
spinning. 13 M. Rumigny has a chateau of the 16th century. — 17 M. Liar. 
is the junction of 'the line from Laon to Mezieres (p. 77). — 8872 M. Amagne 
Lucquy.^ also on the line from Rheims to Mdzieres-Charleville (see p. 93j. — 
441/2 M. Attigny (H6t. de la Gave; du Commerce^, an ancient and eel ehratec 
little town on the Aisne and the Canal des Ardennes. Wittikind, the dukt 
of the heathen Saxons, was baptised here in 786; and here in 822 Louii 
the Debonair performed his public penitence at the instigation of his pre 
lates. The Merovingian and Carlovingian kings had a large and splendi(| 
palace here, built in 647, of which the Dome, a sort of portico near thr 
Hotel de Ville, is the only relic. The Church, dates from the 15-16th cent* 
its tower from the 12th, — We now ascend the valley of the Aisne. — 
55 M. Vouziers (H6t. du Commerce; Lion d'Or), a town with 3436 inhab. I 
picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Aisne, has a church of tht: 
15-16th cent., with a remarkable portal. A statue commemorates HippolyV. 
TaiTie, the critic and historian (1828-93), who was burn here. Narrow 
gauge lines run from Vouziers to Buzancy (15 M. in IV4 hr.) via Chdtillon 
sur-Bar (p. 94) and to Le Chdtelet-sur-Retourne (26 M. in 2-2V3 hrs.). — 65 M 
Challerange, on the line from Bazancourt to Apremont (p. 93). — 75V2 M 
Vienna -la- Villi, which appears as Axuenna in the Itinerary of Antoninus 




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CHANTILLY. 11. Route. 67 

18 on the road from Rheima to Metz via Verdun. — 791/2 M. La Neuville- 
au-Pont has a modern pilgrimage- chapel and a village-church built partly 
m the 14th, partly in the 16th century. — 8472 M. Ste. Menehould (see p. 91) 
The train then continues to ascend the valley of the Aisne, but finally 
diverges into that of its tributary, the Ante, and reaches (105V2 M.) Revignij 
(see p. lOo). ^ ■' 

From Hirson to Laon (Paris) and to Givet (Namur) see p 78 • to 
Maubeuge, see p. 74. — Line to Guise (p. 73) under construction. ' 

The railway beyond Hirson traverses an undulating country, 
dotted with iron-mines, slate-quarries, and factories. — 1431/2 m! 
St. Michel-Sougland. The rich abbey of St. Michel is now repre- 
sented by its church, dating from the 12th and 16th cent., and some 
buildings of the 18th century. — 1 621/2 M. Le Tremhlois. 

A narrow-gauge^ railway runs hence to (IOV2 M.) Petite- Chap elle, on the 
Belgian frontier, via (71/2 M.) Rocroi (Hdtel du Nord; du Commerce) a. forti- 
lied town with 2116 inhab., situated on a plateau about 1300 ft. above the 
sea -level, 8 M. to the W. It is noted for a brilliant victory won bv 
Conde over the Spaniards in 1643. Diligence to Revin, see p. 79. 

The slate-quarries of (1 641/2 M.) Rimogne are the most important 
in the N. of France. — 171 1/2 M. Toumes (p.78). — The train passes 
between Mezieres and Charleville. 

176 M. Mezieres-Ckarleville, seep. 94. -— Thence to (232 M.] 
Longuyon and (301 M.) Nancy, see pp. 94-99. 

11. From Paris to Namur (Brussels, Cologne). 

a. Vi& St. Quentin, Maubeuge, and Erquelines. 

(Paris 'Mons -Brussels.) 
191 _M. Railway in 51/2- 101/4 hrs. (fares 33 fr. 25, 22 fr. 95, 15 fr. 5 c). 
1 he trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. of Paris, B, C, 23, 24). Trav- 
ellers bound for Brussels follow this route as far as (142 M.) Maubeu^^e 

fl'i> J' °''. ^^.^^ l^^7 ®^^^"* *^® ""^^^^ ^^^ Amiens, Valenciennes, and Mona 
(RR. 1, 11. &5), which, though longer and dearer, has the advantage of a morn- 
ing through-express, with second-class carriages. - For farther , details of 
&i. -uenis, Chantilly, and other places near Paris, see Baedeker's Paris. 

Shortly after the fortifications are passed the line to Soissons 
Laon, etc. (p. 81) diverges to the right. 41/2 M. St. Denis, with 
the tower of its new church conspicuous on the right, and the tower 
of the cathedral farther off. The line to Beauvais via Meru (p 32) 
iiverges here to the left. — 7 M. Pierrefitte- Stains. On the right 
rises the Fort de Garches. Beyond (221/2 M.) Orry-Coye the train 
Jrosses a viaduct, 130 ft. high. To the right are the Chateau de la 
Heme Blanche, a small Gothic structure of 1826, and the pond of 
the same name. We now enter the Forest of Chantilly. 

251/2 M. Chantilly (Hotel du Grand Condi; d' Angleterre, etc.), the 
first stopping-place of the through-trains, a town with 5083 inhab., 
ramous, especially in the 17th and 18th cent., as the residence of 
the Condes. The well-known Race Course is situated near the station, 
b arther off are the extensive Stables of the Conde's (18th cent.), and 
;he two Chateaux, with their fine Park. The main *Chateau, witli 
ts magnificent art-collections, was presented to the Institut de France 

5* 



68 Route U. CREIL. From Paris 

by the Due d'Aumale (1822-97) and is open to visitors on Sun., 
Thurs., and holidays in summer, from 1 to 5 (except race-days). ' 
Vox details, see Baedeker s Paris. 

From Cuantilly to Cuftpy-EN-VALOis, 22V2 M., railway in I-IV4 hr. (fares 
4 fr. , 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 80 c). This branch divert^es to the right beyond 
the viaduct mentioned below. — 8 M. Senlis (JJdUl des Arines; du Grand- 
Cerf • du Iford), tlie Eoman Civitas Si/lvanectensivm, 8iiu3i\ed on the Nonelte, 
is "a 'pleasant little town with 7126 inhab., which is frequently mentioned 
in mediaeval history. Sixteen towers of the GuUo-Roman Fortifications 
are still preserved. 'The Gothic *Cathedral, a handsome building of the 
12-16th cent., possesses a portal (1154) adorned with bas-reliefs and statues, 
and two square towers, one of which is 260 ft. in height. The rich facade 
of the S. transept is in a late-Pointed style. The churches of St. Pierre 
(16th cent.). Si. Frambourg (12th cent.), and the former abbey-church of 
St. Vincent (12th cent.) are also worthy of inspection. — 22V2 M. Criptj- 
en-Valois, see p. 82. 

Beyond Chantilly the train crosses the valley of the Nonette by 
a Viaduct, 486 yds. in length and 72 ft. in height, commanding a 
fine view. To the left is a modern chateau of the Rothschilds. The 
train passes through a cutting, traversing the quarries of St. Maxi- 
min , which yield excellent huilding-stone , and soon crosses the 
Oise. To the right is another handsome modern chateau of the Roth- 
schilds. To the left are the church of St. Leu-d'Esserent (p. 32), 
the line to Pontoise (p. 128), and the village and manufactories of 
Montataire (p. 32). 

3IV2 M. Creil (Buffet; Hotel du Chemin-de-Fer, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr.: 
du Commerce), a town with 9272 inhab., prettily situated on the Oise, 
is an important junction on the Chemin de Fer du Nord, whioh has 
large works here. The church of St. Medard is a building of the 
12-15th centuries. Behind the Hotel de Ville (1902) are some remains 

of an ancient royal chateau. 

Branch-line to Fontoise and Beaumont, see p. 32; to Amiens, etc., see 
pp. 24, 23; to Beauvais and Le Triport, see R. 3. 

Beyond Creil the train skirts the Oise ; the Amiens line diverges 
to the left. — 38'/,. M. Poni-Ste-Maxence (Hot. du Lion-d'Argent), 
with a handsome biidge, built in 1774-85, and an interesting church. 

To the S E. (3/4 M) are the important remains of the Ahbaye de Moncel 
(partly 14th cent. ; visitors admitted). — Near the station is the Foret d' Hal- 
late, traversed by a road to (31/2 M.) Fleurines and (7V2M.) Senlis (see above 1. 

441/2 M. Longueil-Ste- Marie (to Yerberie and Estrees-St-Denis. 
see p. 70). — 461/2 M. Le Meux (to Crepy-en-Valois, see p. 70). 

52 M. Compiegne (Buffet, good). — Hotels. *Palace Hotkl, R 
from 5, B. IV2, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 12, omn. 1/2 fr. open April-Nov. 
Hot. de la Cloche, B. from 4, d^.j. or D. 31/2, in the restaurant 5, pens 
from 10, omn. V2 fr., good; de France, R. from 3, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr., pen^ 
from 8V2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; du Grand-Cekf, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; de Flandre 
near the station; de la Gark, with cafe, dej. 2V2, D- 3, pens. 71/2 fr. - 
Pensions. M. & Mme. Coron, Rue d'Ulm 10, 20 R., pens. 8-10 fr., English 
Mile. BocheU, Rue des Comeliers 2, 25 R., pens. 6-7 fr. 

Cafes in the Place de r,H6tel-de-Ville ; others near the station. 

Cabs. Per drive, 2 pers. V* fr., 3 pers. 1 fr. 10 c, 4 pers. IV2 fr. ; pe 
hr. IV2, 2, or 2V2 fr. To I'ierrefonds (for 4 pers.) 12 fr., to Champlieu 20 fi 
(bargain desirable). — Brakes to PierrefowU on Sun. <fe Thurs. in summe 



to Namur. COKPlkGNE. u. Route. 69 

(seat 2 fr. ; enquire at the hotels). — Omnibus from the station to the town 
50 c, with 66 lbs. of luggage. 

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue Napoleon 5, near the Hotel de Ville. 
English Church. St. Andrew's, Avenue Thiers ; chaplain, Bev. H. Newcomh. 
Compiegne^ on the Oise^ a town with 16,868 inhab., was always 
a favourite country-residence of the monarchs of France and is, 
therefore, a place of some historical importance. It was here that Joan 
of Arc was taken prisoner by the Burgundians in 1430. A monument 
to her memory, by Leroux, was erected in the Place de I'Hotel-de- 
Ville in 1880. The tower in which she was confined is shown near 
the river. 

Turning to the right on leaving the station and crossing the Oise, 
we soon reach the Hotel de Ville, erected at the beginning of the 
16th cent., with a fine fagade, now adorned with modern statues, 
above which rises a belfry, 154 ft. in height. It contains a small but 
interesting Museum of paintings and other works of art (open free 
Sun. & Thurs., 2-5, in winter till 4; on other days for a gratuity). 
The early-Gothic church of SL Jacques, a little farther on, was 
much disfigured in the 15th century. Above the facade (15th cent.) 
rises a tower with a Renaissance dome, 160 ft. high. The coloured 

marbles in the choir and the wood-carvings are noticeable. The 

church of St Antoine (12th and 16th cent.), on the other side of 
the town, has a fine portal and some stained glass of the Renaissance 
period. 

The Chateau or Palace, the most important though not the most 
attractive edifice at Compiegne, situated a little beyond the church 
of St. Jacques, was built by Gabriel in the reign of Louis XV. In 
front of the facade next the town is a double colonnade, 47 yds. in 
length. The facade overlooking the park is 211 yds. in length and 
has a terrace commanding a fine vista through an avenue in the 
forest, nearly 4 M. in length. An iron trellised walk, ^gM. in length, 
leading from this terrace to the forest was constructed by Napoleon I.' 
to remind the Empress Marie Louise of her favourite trellis at Schon- 
brunn; only a portion of it now exists. Louis Philippe and Napo- 
leon III. also frequently resided at Compiegne. The chateau is open 
free every day from 10 to 5 (11 to 4 in winter)^ the 'appartements 
re'serve's' are shown on application to the custodian. 

The Intekiok is maintained in almost the same state as under the Empire 
and contams much to interest visitors. The contents include furniture in 
the style of Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVL, Sevres porcelain, 
tapestries, ceihng-paintings and panels by Oirodei, Dubois, CoypeL and others, 
sculptures, etc. The palace contains also a large number of paintings 
belongmg to the Louvre collection. In the Galerie des Fetes are statues Sf 
napoleon I and his mother, by Canova. The chapel (not shown) contains 
some small works by Italian masters. 

The '^Park, entered by a gate on the left as we quit the palace, 
IS embellished with statues. The Forest of Compiegne, which is, 
intersected by 354 roads and paths and affords many beautiful walks. 
is (J5,8o0 acres in area and 58 M. in circumference. 

Branch-railways lead from Compiegne to (22V.> M.) Roye (Peronnc 



70 Route II. PIERREFUNDS. From Paris 

and Cauihrai; pi>. 61, 62} and to (25 M.) isoissofis (p. 82j, by the valley of the 
Aisiie, diver}j;ini5 from the line to Villcrs-Cottercts at (4 M.) Rethondes. — 
]?ranch-line from Coinpiesine to Clermont and Beavvais, see p. 24. 

Fkom CoMPiftONK TO V1LLER8-C0TTEKKT8 VIA PiEUKEFONus, 23 M., rail- 
way in I hr. (fares 4 fr. 15 , 2 fr. 80 , 1 fr. W c). To Pierrefonds, lO'/a M., 
railwav in 20-35 niin. (fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 30, 85 c). — The line crosses 
the Oise and skirls the forest to the E. and S.K. — IOV2 M. Pierrefonds 
(*jm. des Bains, with baths, R. from 6, B. IV4, d^j. 41/2, D- 5V2, pens, 
from 12, omn. V2 fr. ; des Elrangers, opposite the chateau and near the 
station, R. from 8, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 8 fr. ; det Ruines, Rue 
Carnot; de PEn/er, Rue Viollet-le-Duc-, Ildt. -Restaurant du Lac, facing the 
lake, dej. 2V2, D. 2V4, pens. 7 fr.), prettily situated on a small lake and 
possessing a bathing establishment, is chiefly interesting on account of its 
magnificent •Feudal Castle (open 9.30-5.30 or 10-4). This building, which 
stands on a rocky height above the village, was erected in 1390 by Louis 
of Orleans, brother of Charles VI., and was one of the strongest and hand- 
somest of the castles of that period. It was still a powerful fortress under 
Henri IV, but was dismantled in 1617. During the E evolution it was 
sold, and it was afterwards purchased by Kapoleon I. It was restored 
l)y Viollet-le-Duc (d. 1879), and now belongs to the nation. At the corners 
and in the centre of each side rise massive loopholed towers (eight in all), 
J 15 ft. in height, with walls 16-20 ft. thick. The entrance is on the S. 
side. The donjon, with its rich decorations, conveys an excellent idea of 
the splendour of a mediaeval feudal lord. Above the fire-place in the hall 
of state are statues of the nine 'preuses', or heroines, of mediaeval romance : 
Semiramis, Lampedo, Deiphila, Tomyris, Tanqua, Penthesilea, Menelippe, 
Hippolyta, and Deifemme. — 23 M. Villers-Cotierets, see p. 82. 

From CoMPifsGNE to Cki<:py-en- Valois, 21 V2 M., railway in 1 hr. 
(fares 8 fr. 90, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c). The railway diverges from the 
line to Paris at Le Meux (p. 68). — 10 M. Verherie, a small town, once a 
favourite residence of the Merovingian and Carlovingian kings of the 8-9tb 
cent., retains, however, no relics of its early greatness. Here, in 856, Ethel- 
wolf of England inarried Judith, the daughter of Charles the Bald. The 
church dates from the 14th century. A branch runs hence to Longueil 
(p. 68) and (IOV2 M.) Estrees-St-Denis (Boves-Amiens; see below).— 15 M. 
Orrouy, about IV2 M. to the N.W. of which is ChampUeu, with a ruined 
church of the 12th cent., and some Roman remains (baths, theatre, temple, 
etc.). The custodian of the ruins lives at Orrouy. — 21 V2 M. Cri'py- 
en-Valois, see p. 82. 

From Compi6gne to Amiens, 451/2 M., railway in 2-2V2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 20, 
5 fr. 50, 3.fr. 60 c). — 91/2 M. Estn^es- St-Denit, formerly chief town of 
the barony which gave name to the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees, mistress 
of Henri IV. (Railway to Verberie, see above.) — 28 M. Montdidier, see 
p. 61, — 331/2 M. Moreuil, with a large ruined castle and the church and 
other remains of a Benedictine priory of the 14-15th centuries. — At (4OV2M.) 
Roves we join the railway from Paris to Amiens (p. 23). 

67 M. Noyon (Hotel du Nord; de France), an ancient town with 
7336 inhab., of which St. Medard and St. Eloi (Eligius) were hishops. 
Here Chilperic was buried in 721, Charlemagne crowned king of 
the Franks in 768, and Hugh Capet elected king in 987. Noyon was 
the birthplace of Calvin (1509-64), the reformer, and of Jacques 
Sarraziu (1592-1660), painter and sculptor, to whom a bronze statue,^ 
by Molknecht, was erected on the promenade in 1851. — The Cath- 
edral is one of the most beautiful examples in France of the Tran- 
sition style of the ll-12th centuries. 

Round and pointed arches are used promiscuously, but the latter are 
the more numerous. The two W. towers, 2iK) ft. high, are unfinished-, the 
portico (14th cent.) has three portals, unfortunately much injured in the 
course of time. In the interior of the nave square pillars with engaged 



to Namar. ST. QUENTIN. 11. Route. 11 

columns a'ternate with single columns. The aisles have galleries with 
pomted arches, above which is a triforium with round arches The transents 
have a triforium and two rows of coupled windows, one row Gothic the 
other Romanesque. The choir-apse is surrounded by small circular chapels 
recalling, as do also the apsidal terminations of the transepts, the cathedral 
of lournai, whose bishop was subject to Noyon until 1135 The chaneN 
of the nave were added in the 14-16th centuries. On the N side of the 
cathedral and behind the choir, are a Chapter House and the remains of a 
Gothic Cloister. 

. .V.fa ^^^^""y ^^^^' ^"^ ^ot-d'Etain, good), an industrial town 
of lU,4yb mhab., with bleach-fields and a branch of the St. Gobain 
mirror-works (see below). 
^f««!"7f Chauny TO Laon via Co«c^-Ze-CM;eaM, 26V2 M., railway in IVihr. 

Ifr. bOc.). - 3M. Smceny with an old porcelain-factory. From (4V2 M 
Rond-dOrUans^ branch-railway runs to (5 M.) St. Gobain (Hot. du Point- 
du-Jour) celebrated for its Mirror Works, founded in 1693: and probably 
he most ancient in the world (visitors require permissionVrom the of fie 
«u''ii ~r^^' ^^'^'V'^f^y^ yliere there is a large glass-work. 

f Or, 11 IV2-3, D. 3 fr.), a village famous for its formidable *Castle, now 
in ruins, one of the most striking monuments of the feudal ages in Europe. 
This huge stronghold, which covered an area of 10,000 sq. yds. was built 
ear lyin the 13th cent by Enguerrand III., and till about 1400 U Temained 
in the possession of his family, who bore the proud motto : 'Roi ne suvs 
ne prince, ne due, ne comte aussi; je suys le sire de Coucy\ The wealthy 
Louis of Orleans, who built Pierrefonds, then bought it and alterrd it iJ 
the interior. It was dismantled in 16.52 by Mazarines orders but had for 
its last lord Philippe 'Egalite' of Orleans. It is now publTc Vr±?tv anJ 
open to visitors (fee). The donjon, according to Viollet^le-Dueris the finest 
?£fs"T^anf>%''"'"P' Of mediaeval military^architecture; 'compared wul 

U U thti f!, *^ ^?? ^\ '° diameter, and the walls are in some places 
34 ft. thick. Four smaller towers, a moat, and high walls also protected 

on'au'S but'onl °'' '" '" '"'"''^'^'' approach'ed by long steep slopes 

,,•3 G*-^^^ ^'^ Anizy-Pinon we join the line from Paris to Laon fp. 75) 
via ooissons. ^^ ' 

At (811/2 M.)Tergnierr5w/fe<,- Hot. du Chemin-de-Fer) &vq Iatsq 
railway-workshops. Railway from Amiens to Rheims, see p. 64 
An electric tramway to Anizy-Pinon (see above) via St. Gobain 
(see above) is to be opened in 1909. 

The main line now quits the Oise, and for some time skirts the 
Canal de Crozat, which joins the Oise and the Somme. 

951/2 M. St. Quentin. - Hotels. Dd Cygne (Pi. a; B, 3) Rue St 

TERKE (Fl. b; B, 3), Rue St. Martin 28, R. from 3 D S^U fr P-onrI . 
MODKR.E ET DU CoMMEKCE (PI. c; B. 2), iue du Palais-delju/tice 27,T 3^ 
n. 3V2fr.; BOFFET-HoTEL, R. from 21/2 fr.; H6t. de la Gabe fPl d- B 5?-' 

-4 pcrs. 2 fr per hr., 2V2 or 3 fr. - Electric Tramways from the station 
PI B%?:"a?d7of?/?''^.^''"^5-/S^^ ^^^ *» *^^ 5ar,4J(p"a e Thfers^ 

iTii.^ Telegraph Office (PI. B, 3), Rue de La Tour 6. 
Baths. Rue Juraentier 9 ; Place du Hult-Octobre 12. 



72 Route II, ST. UUKNTIN. From l^ark 

St. Quentin, an ancient town with 52,768 inhab., is situated on 
rising ground on tbe right bank of the Somme, at the point where , 
it is joined by the Canal de St. Quentin and the Canal Crozat. It 
carries on extensive cotton and woollen manufactures. 

St. Quentin was known to the Romnnfl as Augusta Veromanduorum, 
and derives its modern name from the youthful martyr who introduced 
Christianity here in the 3rd century. It afterwards became the capital of 
the Counts of Verniandois. In 1560 it formed part of the dowry of Mary, 
Queen of Scots, who derived a revenue from it until her death. In 1567 the 
Spaniards, with their l^nglish, German, and Flemish auxiliaries, under 
the Duke of Savoy, signally defeated the French under Coligny and the 
Constable 31ontmorency near St. Quentin. The battle was fought on St. 
Lawrence's day, and it was in gratitude for this victorv that Philip II. 
vowed the erection of the Kscurial. On the 19th Jan., 1871, the French 
'Armee du Nord' under Faidherbe was defeated near St. Quentin by the 
Prussians under General Goeben. 

Quitting the Station (VL B, 5) we cross the Somme and the Canal 
de St. Quentin by a handsome Bridge, decorated with bronze groups 
by Corn. Theunissen (1907), and enter the town. In front of us is 
the Place du Huit-Octobre (PI. B, 4), embellisbed with a handsome 
Monument, by Bardas, symbolizing the successful defence of the 
town against the first attack of the Germans on Oct. 8th, 1870. 

The Rue d'Isle leads thence to the Place de I'Hotel-de-ViUe, in 
which rises the ^Monument of the Siege of 1557, with sculptures by 
C. Theuni.sen (1896). On the N. side of the Place is the *H6tbl 
DE ViLLE (Pi. B, 3), a fine Gothic building begun at the end of the i 
15th century. The fac^ade (1509) consists of an arcade of seven 
pointed arches, above which are nine fine windows in the Flamboyant 
style, separated by niches originally intended for statues and sur- 
mounted by a tasteful balustrade and three gables ornamented with 
rosettes. The Salle du Conseil, the roof of which rests upon two 
circular wooden vaults, contains a large and elaborate chimney-piece, 
a curious mixture of the Gothic and the Renaissance styles. 

The *Chuech of St. Quentin (PI. B, C, 3), a little to the E. of 
the Hotel de Ville, is a fine example of French Gothic of the 12-15th 
cent., but is unfortunately much masked by other buildings. The 
nave is 370 ft. long and 130 ft. high. The W. portal, which was i 
formerly adorned with statues, is one of the oldest parts of the church. 

Interiok. The nave, completed in 1456, the W. transept, and the 
choir are embellished with splendid stained glass and a graceful triforium. 
Many of the chapels date from the 14-15th cent., and, like the choir, are 
adorned with polychrome jpainting. Beside the 1st chapel on the right is 
a Tree of Jesse in stone (15th cent.) and in the chapel is a small 16th cent, 
altar-piece. In the 2nd chapel is a fresco of the 15th cent, (restored), and 
some of the others contain interesting sculptures. The 'Choir Screen is' 
embellished with bas-reliefs (restored in the 19th cent.) referring to the 
history of St. Quentin and his fellow-martyrs, SS. Victoricus and Gentianua, 
all of whom are buried in the crypt (9th cent.). 

In front of the church rises the statue, by Lenglet (1854), of 
Quentin de La Tour (1704-88), the famous pastelist, who was born 
at St. Quentin. — Henri Martin, the historian (1810-83), another 
native, is commemorated by a statue in front of the Lycee (PI. B, 2). 














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to Namur. LE GATE A U. 11. Route. 73 

The huge new building (interior unfinished) to the N. of the 
H6tel de Ville is the Palais de Fervaques (PI. B, 2), so called 
after the former convent whose site it occupies. It accommodates 
the Palais de Justice, the municipal library, and a spacious ban- 
queting-hall containing a Gobelins tapestry (18th cent.) and several 
modern paintings (Exodus, by F. Tattegrain, etc.). The rooms 
above the hall are to contain a Musee of fine art. 

At No. 22, Rue Antoine-L^cuyer, is the Musee Lecuyer (PI. B, 2), 
containing a rich collection of antiquities and works of art, includ- 
ing a series of '^Pastels by De La Tour (see p. 72). The Musee is 
open free on Thurs. & Sun., 2-5 (1-4 in winter); on Mon., Tues., 
Wed., & Sat. on application. The public park of St. Quentin, known 
as the Champs-Ely sees (PI. C, 3), lies to the E. of the older quarters 
of the town. 

From St. Quentin to Guise, 25 M., railway in IV4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10, 
2 fr. 10, 2 fr. 25 c). — IOV2 M. Ribemont (Tonnelier; Dubois), an industrial 
town with 2627 inhabitants. — 25 M. Guise (Buffet-Hdtel; Couronne), an 
industrial town with 7776 inhab., is commanded by an ancient castle, part 
of which dates from the 16th century. In 1339 the English, under John of 
Hainault, burned the town, but the castle was successfully defended by the 
wife of its lord, no other than the daughter of John of Hainault himself. 
Guise was the birthplace of Camille Desmoulins (1762-94), the revolutionary. 
In the Rue de Cambrai is the exceedingly interesting Familist^re, or com- 
munistic workmen's colony, including a Pkalanstere, or large common 
dwelling-house for the members, founded about 1850 by J. B. Godin (d. 1888) 
on the plan advocated by Fourier. — Railway to Laon and Valenciennes 
(see p. 78) ; another to Hirson (p. 66) is under construction. 

Another line runs to (2OV2 M.) Roitel (Epehy, Velu, and Bertincourt; 
p. 62), via (71/2 M.) Vermand, which some authorities identify with the 
Augusta Veromanduorum of the Romans (comp. p. 72). — A narrow-gauge 
line connects St. Quentin with (35V2M.) Caudry-CamhrMs (see below). 

IO8V2 M. Bohain (Hotel du Nord), an ancient town with 6788 
inhab., many times besieged and captured between 1183 and 1815. 
— 1121/2 M. Busigny (Buffet- Hotel; Hot. du Nord). 

A branch -line runs from Busigny to (35 M.) Hirson (p. 66), passing 
various places of industrial importance, including (8V2 M.) Wassigny, also 
a station on the line from Valenciennes to Laon via Guise (see p. 78). 

From Busigny to Cambrai and thence to Valenciennes^ see pp. 61, 63. 

Beyond Busigny our line diverges to the right from the line to 
Cambrai and crosses the valley of the Selle by a viaduct 85 ft. high. 

118 M. Le Cateau {Mouton Blanc), a town with 10,700 inhab., 
on the Selle, with important woollen and merino spinning -mills, 
derives its name from an ancient chateau, originally built about 
the Uth cent, by the Bishops of Cambrai. A peace between England, 
France, and Spain, was signed here in 1559. 

A railway runs from Le Cateau to (16 M.) Cambrai (p. 62), passing 
(772 M.) Caudry-Cambr^siSy whence there are branch -lines to St. Quentin 
(see above) and Denain (p. 45). — The railway proceeds to the E. of 
Caudry to (51/2 M.) Catillon. 

From Le Cateau to Valenciennes and to Laon, see p. 78. 

1221/2 M. Ors. The valley of the Sambre is now entered. — 
1251/2 M. Landrecies (Hot. de la Tete-d'Or, D. 3 fr.), a fortress on 



74 Route 11. MAUBEUGE. From Paris 

tlie Sambre, witli 3924 iiiliab., was tlie birthplace oi Dupleix [1697- 
1764), founder of tlie French power in India, who is commemorated 
by a bronze statue, by Fagel. — We pass the S.E. end of the forest 
of Mormal (p. 6Gj. — 129 M. Hachette (Maroilles). — Beyond 
(132 M.) Sasseynies we cross the Sambre and pass under the line 
to Valenciennes. To the right is the line from Ilirson; to the left 
is Berlaimont. 

134 M. Aulnoye (Buffet- Hotel), I1/4 M. from the village. Rail- 
way from Valenciennes to IJirson (Calais-Nancy), see R. 10. 

Tlie main line continues to follow the valley of the Sambre, 
crossing the river several times. — 139 M. Hautmont (Hot. du Com- 
merce), an industrial town with 13,128 inhabitants. At (141 M.) 
Sous-le-Bois the line to Mens (see below) diverges to the left. 

142 M. Maubeuge (Buffet- Hotel; Hot. du Orand-Cerf, R. 2-3, 
D. 3 fr. ; de la Poste et du Nord, R. 2-3, I). 3 fr.), a fortress of the 
first class, situated on both banks of the Sambre, with 21,520 in- 
hab. , owes its origin to a nunnery and monastery, founded in the 
7th cent, by St. Aldegonda. The veil and a sandal of the saint are 
preserved in the church. Maubeuge became the capital of Hainanlt, 
and passed to France by the peace of Nimwegen in 1678. In 1793 
the town was invested by the prince of Saxe-Coburg, but it was 
relieved by the battle of Wattignies (a hamlet 71/2 M. to the S.), 
commemorated since 1893 by a Monument in the town. It carries 
on very extensive manufactures of tools, implements, horse-shoes, 
and other metal goods. The painter Jan Gossaert (1470-1532), better 
known as Mabuse, was born here. 

From Maubeuge to Mons (Brussels), 13 M., railway in 1-2 lirs. — 1 M. 
Sous-le-Bois (see above). — I3/4 M. Feignies (buffet) is the last French station. 
About 13/4 M. to the W. is Malplaquet, where Marshal Villars was defeated 
in 1709 by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene, and where General 
Pichegru defeated the Duke of York in 1794. — The Belgian custom-house 
examination takes place at (6V2 M.) Qu^vy (buffet). Belgian time (Greenwich 
time) is 4 min. behind Parisian time. — Beyond (12 M.) Cuesmes we traverse; 
the coal-fields of Mons, the richest in Belgium. — 13 M. Mons (Hole 
Schmitz; de VEspirance ; Jadot), Flem. Bergen, the capital of Ihunault, 
with 27,000 inhab., has a fine Cathedral (1460-1589), a Bel/ry of 1662, an H6tel 
de Ville of the 15th cent., etc. For farther details, and for the railway 
from Mons to Brussels, see Baedeker''s Belgium and Holland. 

Fkom Maubeuge to Hikson (Cousolre), 33V2 M., railway in IV2 2 hrs- 
(fares 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 65 c). — From (3V2 M.) Ferrihre-la-Grande a 
branch runs to Cousolre, a town 6V2 31. to the E., with marble-quarries. 
— IOV'2 M. Sars-Poteries, with important glass-works. A branch-line (Qy^ M. 
in V2 br.) runs hence to Avesnes (p. 66). — 13 M. Solre-le-Chdteau. The cha- 
teau no longer exists. The Church (15th cent.) has good old stained glass ; the 
Mairie and some other houses date from the 16th century. — At (I7V2 -^I.) 
Liessies is an ancient abbey-church of the 16th century. The Forest vf 
Tr4lon, which we next traverse, is 7400 acres in extent. 251/2 M. Fourmies 
(p. 66) ; 28V2 M. Anor (p. 78). - 33V2 M. Eirson, see p. G6. 

From Maubeuge to Valenciennes, see p. 49. 

146 M. Recquignies^ with mirror-works. — 148 M. Jeumont 
(buffet) is the last French station. Passengers' luggage coming from 
Belgium is examined here, unless booked through to Paris. 



r 



to Namur. LAOM. 11. Route. 75 

150 M. Erquelines (Buffet-Hotel, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr.)- Luggage 
not registered to pass through Belgium is here examined by the 
Belgian custom-house officers. The railway continues to follow the 
valley of the Sambre. — 158 M. Tlmin. 

168 M. Charleroi (Buffet; Hotel Beukeleers; Siehertz; Oruber), 
a manufacturing town and fortress, with 24,500 inhab., was founded 
by Charles II. of Spain in 1666. — 177 M. Tamines is the junction 
for Din ant (29 M.), Fleurus (51/2 M.), etc. 

191 M. Namur, see p. 81. 

b. Vife Soissons, Laon, and Anor. 

194 M. Railway in 7V2-I21/2 hrs. (fares about 33 fr. 30, 22 fr. 45, 14 fr. 25 c. : 
no through-tickets). Trains start from the Gare du Nord (see p. 81). 

From Paris to (65 M.) Soissons, see pp. 81, 82. The line to Laon 
diverges to the left from that to Rheims, and crosses the Aisne. Fine 
view of Soissons. — 671/2 M. Crouy ,■ 71 M. Margival. Then, beyond 
a tunnel 700 yds. long, (74 M.) Vauxaillon. — 76 M. Anizy-Pinon. 

Railway to Chauny , see p. 71. — A diligence plies from Anizy to 
(5 M.)Pr^Tnonir^, formerly celebrated for its Abbey, founded by St. Noribert 
in 1120, and the mother-house of the Prsemonstratensian order of canons 
regular, who followed the rule of St. Augustine. The present buildings, 
dating from the 18th cent., are occupied as a lunatic asylum. — An electric 
tramway to (41/2 M.) St. Gobain (p. 71) is to be opened in 1909. 

80 M. Chailvet-Urcel. Vrcel, IV2 M. to the S., has a curious 
church of the ll-13th centuries. The town of Laon comes in sight 
on the right. At (84 M.) Clacy-Mons we join the line from Tergnier. 

87 M. Laon. — The Railway Station (270 ft.) is connected with 
the town by an electric railway (ascent in 7 min. , 40 or 25 c, down in 
4 min., 25 or 15 c. -, omnibus 50 c). 

Hotels. De l'£cu-de-France (PI. b; C, 1), Rue David 23, R. from 2, 
B. 1, dej. or D. 3, pens, from 8 fr. ; de la Hdke (PI. a; C, 1), Rue du 
Bourg 4; DE LA BANNifeRE (PI. c •, C, 1), Rue David; du Nokd (PI. d; 
p, 1), opposite the station. — Cafes. De la Comidie, Place de THotel- 
de-VilIe; others at the station. 

Cabs. From the station to the town Ifr,; per drive 75 c.; per hr. 
172 fr. (2 fr. beyond the octroi-limits). Double fare after 11 p.m. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. 3 ; D, 2j, Rue Chatelaine 45 

Laon, with 15,288 inhab., is the capital of the department of 
the Aisne and a fortrees commanding the 'Troue'e de I'Oise'. The 
town is built in the midst of an extensive plain, on a long, isolated 
hill (595 ft.) running E. and W., with an elongated spur stretching 
to the S. and bounding the curious valley mentioned at p. 77. 

Laon is the ancient Lugudumim Remorum, subsequently named Lau- 
rf«ni/m. It was a favourite residence of the later Carlovingian kings. From 
before 500 until 1789 it was the seat of a bishop, second in rank to the 
Archbishop of Rheims alone; and in the middle ages its history is mainly 
a record of the struggles of the townsmen to found their liberties and 
maintain them against the encroachments of the bishops. The English oc- 
cupied Laon from 1410 till 1429; and it suffered severely in the later religious 
wajs, being captured by Henri IV in 1594. In 1814 Napoleon was defeated 
""loJr r,® 'I^^^^ ^^ ^^°" ^""^ compelled to fall back upon Soissons; and 
in laij the Allies occupied the town after a fortnight's siege. In 1870 Laon 
capitulated to the Germans without a blow, but as the latter were entering 



76 Route 11. LAON. From Paris 

the citadel, a French private of engineers, named Henriot, blew up the 
powdei'-magaxine, killing 79 Germans and 229 Frenchmen (including him- 
self). — Laon was the birthplace of the Abb^ Mar<[uette, who discovered 
the Mississippi in 1673, of the brothers Le Nain^ painters in the 17th cent., 
and of Marshal Sirurier (see below). 

The carriage-road ascends in curves to the left from the end of 

the avenue opposite the Station (PI. D, 1); but pedestrians may 

mount directly to the (1/4 tir-) town, by means of a stairway with 

263 steps, interrupted by inclined planes. A little farther on we 

turn to the left into the Rue du Bourg, which leads to the cathedral. 

On the right side of the street is the public Library (PI. 1, C, 1 ; 

open daily 1 to 4 or 5, except Sun. & holidays) 5 a fine Mosaic of 

Orpheus and the animals (2nd cent. A.D.) is shown here. A short 

distance beyond is the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville (PI. C, 1 ; with the 

terminus of the electric railway), embellished with a bronze Statue 

of Marshal Serurier (PI. 4; 1742-1819), by Doublemard. 

The Rue du Bourg, continued by the Rue Chatelaine, leads to the 
church of *Notre-Damb (PI. D, 2), still called the Cathedral. A 
church existed on this fine site at the beginning of the 12th cent, 
but it was burned down in 1112, and the present building, one of 
the most interesting churches in the N. of France, dates from the 
12-13th centuries. It is at present under restoration. The length 
of the church (outside measurement) is 397 ft., the breadth across 
the nave is 100 ft., across the transepts 175 ft. ; the vaulting is 79 ft. 
high. The characteristic feature of this church is its fine group of 
lofty towers and spires. The *FaQade, a masterpiece of pure Gothic, 
is flanked by two bold and graceful towers, 184 ft. high, which 
were originally surmounted by spires. The lower part of these 
towers is square, the upper octagonal, while above the buttresses at 
the angles rise belfries of two stories, adorned on the second story 
with figures of oxen, in memory of the animals who dragged the 
stones from the plain to the site of the building. It was originally 
intended to erect two similar towers at each end of the transepts, 
but only two of these have been completed (198 ft. high). The 
square lantern-tower above the crossing, 159 ft. high, is now crowned 
by a low pyramidal roof instead of the original tall spire. 

The Inteeioe vies in interest with the exterior. The transepts also are 
divided into nave and aisles, which, like those of the nave itself, are 
separated by substantial cylindrical columns, from the capitals of which (all 
sculptured differently) slender columns rise to the vaulting. The aisles 
are furnished with lofty galleries beneath the triforium; the chapels at 
the sides were added in the 13-14th cent., but the screens at the entrances, 
fitted into the arcades of the former windows, date from the 16-17th cent- 
uries. At the end of each transept is an ancient chapel of two stories. 
The E. end of the choir, pierced by a rose-window and three other win- 
dows, is square, as in English cathedrals, a form which frequently recurs 
in the churches of this diocese and is said to be due to the influence of 
an Englishman who held the see in the early part of the 12th century. 
There are rose- windows also above the W. and N. portals, but that above 
the S. portal was replaced at a later date by one huge window occupying 
the whole wall. The stained glass in the rose-windows and in the windows 
of the choir is good. The carved wooden pulpit dateB from 1681. 



toNamur. LAON. 11. Route. 17 

The Palais de Justice (PI. D, 2), to the left of the choir, was 
formerly the bishop's palace (13th cent.}. It retains a few remnants 
of a Gothic cloister and a subterranean chapel. 

The Ruelle des Templiers, the second street to the right of the 
Rue du Cloitre beyond Notre-Dame, leads into a street running from 
the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville to the Citadel (PI. E, 2). 

Opposite the 'Ruelle' is the Musi^e (PI. D, 2), 'in a building at 
the side of a garden surrounding a Chapel of the Templars, of 1134. 
The Muse'e is open to the public on Thurs. & Sun., 1-5 (1-4 in 
winter); on other days on application. It contains antiquities dis- 
covered in the neighbourhood, smaU bronzes, antique vases, and 
some ancient and modern paintings. The marble statue of GabrieUe 
d Estre'es (d. 1599), mistress of Henri IV, is noteworthy. 

From the Promenades (PI. C, D, 2) to the S. of the Mus^e a 
charming *View is obtained of the opposite side of the hill of Laon. 
The hill here, with its steep sides , encloses a V-shaped valley or 
ravine, partly wooded and partly covered with gardens and vineyards 
which is known as the Cuve deSt.Vincent (Pl.B, C,2). The 13th cent! 
Gothic gateway seen here (Porte d'Ardon,- PL D, 2) is a relic of the 
early fortifications. Farther to the W. is the Prefecture (PI. C, D 2) 
in the former Abbaye St. Jean. A street leads hence to the Place de 
1 Hotel-de-Ville, near which is the Porte des Chenizelles (PI. 2) 
another 13th cent, gateway (restored in 1895). Other interesting old 
buildings are to be seen in different parts of the town (e. a. Rue 
S^rurier, Nos. 7, 33, 53). ^ v » 

The Rue St. Jean and Rue St. Martin lead from the Place de I'Hotel- 
de-Ville to the Chubch of St. Martin (PI. B, 1,2), at the other end 
of the town, a coUegiate church of 1140, in the Transition style with 
two transeptal towers, built in the 13th century. In the interior to 
the right of the entrance, is a tomb in black marble (12th cent.), with 
a recumbent statue, erroneously described as that of a Sire de Coucy 
(p. 71). The white marble tomb opposite has a fine statue repre- 
senting the widow of one of the Sires de Coucy, who died as an abbess 
^^^lirn ^^^^P®^ on the S. side of the nave, with a stone screen 
ot 1540, contains an Ecce Homo of the 16th century. 

Behind the church are the Lycee (PI. B, 2) and the H6tel-Dieu. 
A little farther on, near the ruined Porte St. Martin, is the Monu- 
ment deslnstituteurs (PI. 6; B, 2), raised in 1899 to the memory of 
three schoolmasters shot by the Germans in 1870. — On the S end 
?pi*^i^ n^'l^^*^ forming the 'cuve' is the former Abbaye St. Vincent 
(^ifl. B, G, .-5), now occupied by military engineers, 
qi/ q^f'h I^^,?"" ''o MfizifiRES-CHARLEviLLE VIA LiART, 58 M., railway in 
ltV*AlJZ^' ^^ ?• ^\?^'.^^^^'- 60 c-). Carriages ar; changed at 
wav '- 8 M T?.?f %5;''"? ^^^- ^\'™^" ^^ ^^' *^" ^«^d to tl^« State rail- 
Sr the n,i^;.^ •^^''^" ^f'V ^^- ^*>«^««.- ^^^^ d^Or), a village famous 

centSv '%Z^^''\''^''S\^{J?fre.!)a7ne.de-Liesse, dating from the 12th 
SHtions\rIn,,« ^''•^ T^'.^^'i^y" *^« **-15*^ centuries. - Several small 
me St.fl itf "^ ' »"c;"d>°g C21 M.) Montcornet, a small town with a ruined 
medirev,.! chateau and remains of fortifications of the IGth c.^nturv. - 



78 Route 11. VERVINS. From Paris 

37 M. Liai't (p. 66) is the junction of the line from Hirson to Revigny. — 
At (52 M.) Tournea (p. 67) we join the railway from Hirson to MitUret. 

Fbom Laon to Valenciennes, 80 M., railway in 4V3-5 hrs. (fares 
14 fr. 35, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 35 c). At (12 M.) Metbvecourt we cross the Serre., 
an affluent of the Oise, and at (28 M.) Flavigny-le- Grand we enter the valley 
of the Oise. — 31 M. Guise, see p. 73. — The Oise is crossed, and several 
small stations are passed. — From (38 M.) Wastigny, on the line from 
Busigny to Ilirson, express-trains run direct via (4272 M.) St. Souplet to 
{i'^ M.) Le Gateau, while other trains make a detour via Busigny. — 
56V2 M. Le Gateau, see p. 73. — To the right is the line to Maubeuge 
(p. 74). — 64 M. Solesmes (Soleil d'Or), a linen-manufacturing place with 
5910 inhabitants. To Cambrai and Bavai, see p. 63. — We continue to 
traverse an industrial district, passing numerous stations. — 751/2 M. Prouvy- 
Thiant is the junction for Somain via Lourehes. — 80 M. Valenciennes., 
see p. 46. 

From Laon to Amiens and to Rheims., etc., see R. 9. 

Beyond Laon the line to Hirson soon diverges to the left from 
that to Rheims. From (96 M.) Dercy-Mortiers a branch-line runs 
to Versigny (p. 64). We ascend the valley of the Serre. Beyond 
(102 M.) Marie (narrow-gauge line to Montcornet, see ahove) the 
train passes into the valley of the VUpion. — 111 M. Vervins (Hot. 
du Cheval-Noir ; de la Gare), a town with 3187 inhah., is noted for 
the treaty concluded here in 1598 between Henri IV and Philip 11. of 
Spain. — 119 M. Origny-en-Thierache. La Thierache was the name 
given to this district because from 596 to 613 it formed part of the 
domains of Thierry, King of Burgundy. Its capital was Guise 
(p. 73). — The valley of the Thon is now crossed by means of a 
viaduct, 60 ft. high. 

1221/2 M. Hirson (Buffet), see p. 66. — 128 M. Anor (Cloche d'Or ; 
de la Gare), with 4604 inhabitants. Railway to Aulnoye and Valen- 
ciennes, see pp. 66, 65. — 133 M. Momignies is the first Belgian 
station [custom-house examination). — 14072 M. Chimay (Hot. de 
I'Univers), a town with 3000 inhab., has a chateau belonging to the 
Prince of Chimay and a statue of Froissart, the chronicler (d. 1410). 
— 150 M. Mariemhourg. Railway to [291/2 M.) Charleroi (p. 75); 
to (IOV2 M.) Vireux, see p. 80. — 158 M. Romeree. — 164 M. 
Doisc/iej^junction for Chatelineau [27 M.) and for Givet [p. 80). — 
165 M. Agimont -Village. At [169 M.) Hastier e - Lav aux (p. 80) 
we join the line from Givet to Namur. 

c. Yik Soissons, Rheims, and Mezieres. 

228 M. Railway in 8V4-13V4 hrs. ^'o through-tickets. Fares from Paris 
to Oivet about 35 fr. 25, 23 fr. 85, 15 fr. 50 c. ; from Givet to Namur 4 fr. 8o, 
3 fr. 25, 1 fr. 95 c. Trains start from the Gare du Nord, though between 
Soissons and Givet the Chemin de Fer de TEst is traversed. 

From Paris to (154 M.) Mezieres-Charleville, see RR. 12, 14 d. 

The railway soon begins to descend the picturesque *Valley of the 
Meuse, at the W. extremity of the Ardennes, a region formerly famous for 
its forests, and containing on this side hills more than 1600 ft. high. The river 
pursues its capricious course between lofty slate-cliffs, raising their steep 
wood-clad slopes to the height of several hundred feet, and often approach- 
ing so close as to leave no room even for a footpath beside the river. The 
railwav -journey through this beautiful region 18 very interesting and com- 






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to Namur. MONTHERMfi. //. Jioute. 79 

mands constantly varying, though often only too momentary, views as the 
train crosses and recrosses the meandering stream. Some of the finest 
points moreover, are passed in the train by means of tunnels so that if ?, 
advisable to visit them on foot, e.g. the country between M^nthermVLd 
Fumay, and the neighbourhood of Dinant. The valley is enlivened bv 
numerous iron-works, nail-works, and other industrial establishments ^ 
The railway now follows the right bank of the Meuse to near 
fp?o"!. '.^^' traversing the peninsula of Mont Olympe fsee p 941 
fy, 7K7r'? l^*^*- ^^ ^"'^5 de la Poste), picturesquely situated,' 
7a5 J ; '^^^^•' '^ *" important centre of the metallic industry 
Ibl M. Joigny-sur-Meuse.l— Beyond (164 M.) Braux - Levrezv 
the line enters one of the most picturesque parts of the valley 
660 yds Ion 0^^*^' - ^'^l^ - Aymon are pierced by a tunnel* 

'preu?chTv'a"liefs'^"ofl^^.^'f ' ?p°if^?' ^"^^^^'•d, Adelard, and Richard, 
preux cnevaiiers of the court of Charlemagne, are the heroes of varinna 
remarkable adventures related in numerous chansonrand legends of ?he 
middle ages They were in the habit of riding one behind tie other on 
the wonderful horse Bayard, presented to them by the fai^ Orlande 

1641/2 M. Montherme-Chdteau-Regnault-Bogny, industrial vil- 
lages on the right and left bank. 

Montherme (Hotel de la Paix, by the bridge), with 4170 inhab and 
extensive slate-quarries, lies about 2 M. to the N. (omnibus 30 c aho 

[tTTth: \ZToT.'lilr *'.^ T'^- J^« -"ai'occu'pTes'a pel^unrr 
oiTc, ai ine iieacl ot a loop formed here by the Meusp Tint fa.. f,.nT« ;+o 

junction with the^mo,,, which enters it at^Lavaldieu^ee Lw 

«.o^ <r !f x,^^ " *^® neighbouring peninsula command fine views We 

A preferable route leads to the N.W. to (3V2 M.) Laifour (sll ht\nZl' 
Pedestrians will find the valley interesting as far as K 6 M fllther 

n"- ^^^ '?r^*' ^°"^^« *^^ '^^"««' «"<i beyond Laifour comes in sifht of the 
Dames de Meuse (see below). 3 m'. Anchamps; 3 M. R^in^e! Slow? 

i he Valley of the Semoy, still more sinuous than that of the Meuse 
offers many picturesque points, especially in its lower or French part' 
m which a narrow-gauge line runs from Montherme to IZldTeuThilav 
LVi *''^^^f Sautes^Bivi^res (11 M.j Hot. Robinet). -The Excursion 
Bouillon (p- '97)?' '' ^"'"" ^^°"^' *^« ^-«* 2^1g-- village, 'or' e"en to 

Beyond Montherme station we cross to the left bank of the 
y^euse by means of a bridge and a tunnel 1/2 M. long, penetrating 
-he peninsula of Montherme. — 167 M. Deville, with large slate 

^IfiqfrMw" V "^^* "'' *^' ^"' ^"^^ of Laifour. Beyond 
f* '^?i'^ i^^.'I'''''' ^'^ ^ ^"^^^ ^"^ ^ *"""«!' 540 yds. long. On the 
eft are the CUffs of the Dames de Meuse. Another bridge and tunnel 

own tifh Wv"" ^f K^' ^" ^"''' ^' ^^^"^ 2' ^- ^ ^^0. an industrial 
own w th 5.J77 inhab., occupies two peninsulas formed by the 

"mof ^ f two suspension -bridges. The Mont Malgre-Tout 
iV V^v \ ;•' <^o^°^a"ds a splendid view. — A diligence 
I72 fr.j plies from Revin to Rocroi (p. 67). 

J^^\\^^^^:^^y^^'^^^^^ the Meuse once more and traverses the isth- 
ZM '' t .^^^^*«"^nean canal about 600 yds. long also crosses 

«nr'i.'^'*'^"^ °^ *^' ''''''^ ^^ 3 M. made by the river. 
1»U M. Fumay (Hotel de la Qare; du Commerce), a town with 



80 Route U. DIN A NT. 

5836 inhab., is situated about 3/4 M. to the N.E. of the station 
(omn. 26 c.l, on an oval-shaped peninsula. Besides iron-works, it 
possesses the largest slate-quarries in the valley. The handsome 
Church is modern. 

Beyond Fumay the train enters a long tunnel and emerges on 
the bank of the river near the town. 183 M. Haybes. 187 M. Vireux- 
MoLhain (Hot. de la Gare) is the junction of a line to Oharleroi 
via Mariembourg (p. 78). In the distance (left) appears the pictur- 
esque ruined Chateau des Hierges. — 189 M. Aubrhes. A little 
farther on the river makes another bend, cut off by the railway 
and a partly subterranean canal. We approach Givet by a tunnel 
below the citadel. r> -11/ 

194 M. Givet (^Buffet; *Qr.-H6t. d' Angleterre, R. from 31/2, B. 1 V4» 
d^j. or D. 4, omn. 1/2 fr.; Mont-d'Or, K. from 21/2, B. l,idej. or 
D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr.) good), with 7648 inhab., is situated on both 
banks of the Meuse, about 1/2 M. to the right of the station. The 
fortifications were demolished in 1892, with the exception of the 
citadel of Charlemont, perched on a rock 700 ft. high, on the W. 
side, and so called because founded by Charles V. Givet became 
French at the close of the 17th century. The composer Mehul (176o- 
1817) was born here, and a statue was erected to him in 1892 near 
the station. The best view of the picturesque town is obtained from 
the bridge uniting it with Qivet-Notre-Dame, the suburb on the 
right bank. The citadel commands another fine view. 

Excursion-cars ply twice daily in summer to the GroUes de Nichety 
curious caverns (adm. 2 fr.) at Fromelenms, 2^/2 M. to the E , and to Landrv 
champs, 5 M. farther on (return- fares 75 c. and IV2 fr.)- — Excursion- 
steamers in Julv-Sept. ply both up and down the Meuse. - From Gxvet 
an omnibus (1 fr.) plies daily to (6 M.) Beauraing, whence a visit may be 
paid to the grottoes of Han-tur-Lette and Rochefort (see Baedeker s Belgium 
tb Holland). 

Givet is the last French station. The railway still follows the 
valley of the Meuse; for details see Biedeker's Belglam Sf Holland. 
The line to Doische (p. 78) and Chatelineau diverges to the 
left. — The Belgian custom-house is at (199 M.) Heer- Agimont. 
Belgian time (Greenwich time) is 4 min. behind French time. The 
line to Hirson (p. 78) diverges to the left. — 2OIV2 M. Hastiere- 
Lavaux (p. 78). 7,1 

211 M. Dinant {Hot. des Pastes, R. from 4, de'j. 3, D. 4 fr. ; de La 
nte-d'Or, R. from 3, D. 31/2 fr- ; des Families, R. from 3, D. 2 fr.; ' 
des Ardennes, R. from 2, D. 21/2 fr.), a town with 7700 inhab., is very 
picturesquely situated at the base of barren limestone cliffs, crowned 
by a Citadel. The cliff-scenery of the neighbourhood is interesting. 

Branch -line to Jemelle (grottoes of Han-sur-Lesse and Rochefort), see 
Daedeker'^s Belgium & Holland. 

Beyond Dinant, to the left, lies its ancient rival Bouvignes, with 
the ruined castle of Crevecoeur. We cross the Meuse. — 216 M. 
Yvoir, about i^jo M. to the W. of which is the castle of Montaigle, 
the finest ruin o^f the kind in Belgium. — Beyond a tunne is the 



Fi]RE-EN-TARDENOIS. 12. Route. 81 

station of Talllefer. — On the left the old citadel of Namur is seen. 
The Meuse is crossed for the last time. 

228 M. Namur (*H6tel d'Harscamp, R. from 3, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. 
St. Aubin; de FLandre ; de la Couronne; de Hollande), the strongly 
fortified capital of the province, with 31,200 inhab., at the con- 
fluence of the Sambre and the Meuse, see Baedekers Belgium and 
Holland. 

12. From Paris to Rheims. 

a. Yik Meaux and La Ferte-Milon. 

u , ■Qr^T^^'^^A^'V ^T?.*"".^ ^^ ^^^'*' ^^' ^' 24) in 13/4-41/3 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 55, 
11 fr. yu, / tr. TO c). Dining-car on the afternoon-express (dej. 31/2, D. 41/2 fr.). 

From Paris to (311/9 M.) Trilport, see R. 15. The Rheims line 
diverges to the N. from that to Chalons , and beyond (35V2 M.) 
Isles- Armentieres crosses the Marne and then ascends the valley of 
the Ourcq. Three small stations. 

50 M. La Ferte-Milon (Hot. du Sauvage), a small town on the 

Ourcq, was the birthplace of Racine (1639-99), the dramatist, to 

whom a statue, by David d' Angers, has been erected here. The 

ruins of the Castle (begun by Louis d'Orle'ans , p. 70) date mainly 

from the 14th century. In a niche on each of the towers is a statue 

of one of the nine 'preuses' (p. 70). The churches of St. Nicola» 

(Gothic and Renaissance) and Notre-Dame (12th and 16tb cent.) 

contain good stained glass of the 16th cent., etc. 

/.-ri/^^'l'^V.l'"®® i^" ^^^^^ *° (^Vz M.) Villers-Cotterets (y. 82) and to 
(171/2 M.) Chdteau-Thierry (p. 101) via OulchyBreny. J ^i a 10 

68 M. Fere-en-Tardenois (Hot. du Pot-d'Etain) has an interest- 
ing church. On a hUl, i^/^ M. to the N., rises a picturesque ruined 
Castle, built in the 13th cent., but altered in the 16th by the Con- 
stable Anne de Montmorency. — Beyond Fere the train quits the 
valley of the Oarcq by means of a long and deep cutting. — 751/0 M 
Mont-Notre-Dame, with a church of the 12- 13th cent, and aii 
18th cent, chateau. We cross the Vesle, and join the line from 
Soissons (see p. 83). — 771/2 M. Bazoches, with a ruined castle 
C12-13th cent.). — 71 M. Fismes (Hot. V^ron), a small town, the 
Fines Suessionum of the Romans. — 97M. Rheims (buffet), see p. 84. 

b. Vi& Soissons. 

18 abov/- %™\(Gare dii Nord, PI. B, C, 23, 24) in 21/2-5 hps. (fares 
HaM'trplZ *"''' *' ^^' as Crepy-en-Valois, see Baedeker^ s 

The train traverses the district of La Chapelle, quits Paris near 

bt. Ouen, and at (21/2 M.) La Plaine- St- Denis diverges to the right 

from the main Ligne du Nord. 41/2 M. Aubervilliers-la-Courneuve. 

b M. Le Bourget-Ihancy. Le Bourget, to the left, was the scene 

ot sanguinary struggles between theFrench and Germans in 1870. — 

Bakukkeks Northern France. 5th Edit. g 



82 Route rj. SOJSSONS. From Parh 

Q^/2 M. Aulnay-lcs-Bondy (p. 100). On the right is the forest of 
Bendy. The train skirts the Canal de I'Ourcq. — 21 V2 M. Dam- 
martin, near wliich is the College de Juilly, founded by the Ora- 
torians in the 17th century. — 26V2 ^^- Le PUssis-BeileviUe. In 
the park of the chateau of ErmenonviUe, 3 M. to the left (omnibus, 
1 fr.), is the original tomb of Jean Jacques Rousseau, whose remains 
were removed to the Pantheon at Paris in 1794. 

40M. Cr6py-en-Valoisr/ioi. da Trois-Pigeons; de la Gare), with 
5375 inhab., was the ancient capital of a district which belonged 
from the 14th cent, to a younger branch of the royal family of 
"France. Branch-railways to Chantilly and Compiegne, see pp. 68, 70. 
48^/2 M. Villers - Cotterets (Hotel du Dauphin; Pomme d'Or; 
Epee), with 5381 inhab., was the birthplace of Alexandre Duma* 
the Elder (1803-70), to whom a statue, by A. Carrier-Belleuse, was 
erected here in 1885. The ancient Chateau^ rebuilt under Francis 1. 
but disfigured in the 18th cent., is now a poor-house. 

A branch-line runs hence through the Forest of Villers-Cotterets ("pleas- 
ant excursions) to (8V2 M.) La FerU-Milon (p. 81). — Railway to Pierre- 
fonds and Compiegne, see p. TO. 

56 M. Longpont (hotels) has a ruined abbey, dating from the 
12th century. — Beyond (58V2 M.) Vierzy the train traverses a 
tunnel, upwards of 3/4 M. in length, and reaches (62 M.) Berzy- 
le-Sec. On the left runs the line from Compiegne to Soissons. 

66 M. Soissons. — Hotels. Lion Rouge, Rue St. Martin 53, R. from 3, 
13 1V4-1'K d^j. 3,- D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Ckoix d'Oe, Rue St. Christophe 
25, R. frv'm 2V2, B. IV4, dcj. 3, D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr., good; Soleil d Oe. — 
Cafd du Lion Rovge, adjoining the hotel; Buffet, with bedroom?, at the 
station, meal IV2-3V2 fr. . <. ^„ ■. ^ o en 

Cabs. Per drive 1-2 pers. 75 c, 3 pers. 1 fr. 10, 4 pers. 1 fr. 50 c, 
outside tlie octroi-limits and also per hr., IV2, 2, or 2V2 fr. — Tramway 
f rom the station to the town (1/2 M. ; 10 c.) and to St. Waast, see p. 83. 

Soissons, an ancient town formerly fortified, with 14,334 inhab., 
is situated on the Aisne, 1/2 M. from the station. It carries on a 
considerable grain-trade, and is noted for its haricot-beans. 

Soissons is generally identified with iV^o»iod«?iwm, the chief town of the 
Suessonet, mentioned by Ca-sar, called under the early empire Augusta 
Suessonum, and afterwards Suessiona. It is celebrated for the defeat of the 
Romans under Syngrius in 486 by Clovis. Under the Franks Soissons was an 
important town and became the capital of ^'eust^ia. It enjoys an unenviable 
notoriety for the great number of sieges it has undergone, the record only 
closing in October, 1870, when the Germans entered it after a bombardment 
of four days. SS. Crispin and Crispinian are said to have suffered martyrdom 
here in 297, and their successor St. Sinice is regarded as the first bishop 
of Soissons. In 829, and again in 833, Louis the Debonair was imprisoned 
in the town by his un dutiful sons. 

An avenue leads from the station to the Place de la Re'publique, 
where a Monument was erected in 1901 to the citizens shot by the 
Germans in 1870. A turning to the left of the Place leads us 
to the ancient *Por<ai of St. Jean- des-Vignes, the chief part now 
remaining of the Abbey (founded in 1076) in which Thomas Becket 
spent nine years. It is in the style of the 14th cent., flanked by 
handsome towers of a later date (15-16th cent.), rising with th«ir 



to Rheirns. SOISSONS. 12. Routt. 83 

spires to the height of 230 and 245 ft. There are also beautiful 
cloisters adjoining the S. tower (adm. to portal and cloisters 20 c. 
each). 

The * Cathedral (Notre- Dame), which rises on the right a little 
farther on, is a fine example of mixed Romanesque and Gothic of the 
12-13th centuries. The W. facade, with three doors and a beautiful 
Gothic rose-window, is flanked on the S. side by a tower 215 ft 
high (14th cent.). 

The admirably proportioned Inteeiok contains some tapestry of the 
15th cent., an Adoration of the Shepherds, attributed to Rubens, some 
excellent old stained glass, and a few tombs of historical interest The 
transepts, which also have aisles, form as it were a church in themselves 
the choir being represented by the S. transept (the oldest part of the church)' 
which ends in an apse and has an ambulatory, galleries, and a triforium' 
On the E. it is adjoined by a chapel of two stories. The present choir 
dates from 1212. 

From the Grande Place, where the Theatre is situated, we next 
enter (to the right) a long street traversing the entire town, and 
containing several edifices of interest. The Abbaye St. Leger retains 
its t^hurch partly of the 13th cent., with a facade of the 17th. There 
are two crypts (one of the 9th and 10th cent.) and remains of 
cloisters of the 14th century. Intending visitors apply at No. 8, 
Rue de la Congregation. — The Hotel de Ville (18th cent.), near 
the N.E. extremity of the town, contains the Library on the ground- 
floor, and a small Musee (antiquities, paintings, etc.) on the first 
floor. — :The Abbaye Notre-Dame, at the end of the Rue du Com- 
merce (to the left of the Hotel de Ville), is now used as a barrack. 
In the neighbouring Place are the scanty remains of the Roman- 
esque Church of St. Pierre (12th cent.). 

On the right bank of the Aisne is situated the suburb of St. Waasl 
and a little farther down is the hamlet of Si. MMard, famous for its once 
powerful and wealthy abbey. This abbey played a leading part even under 
Qm ^'■°m'°^'''° ^'"^ Carlovingian kings, and in 1530 it was visited by 
^'TZ^y^^^'l^^AJa^ decline dates from the religious wars of the close of 
the Ibth cent. (1568), and its site is now occupied by a Deaf and Dumb 
As?/lum. Among the scanty remains of the old buildings are pointed out a 
cell in which Louis the Debonair is said to have pined (833), and a tower 
reputed to have been the prison of Abelard. The inscription on the wall 
of the former is not older than the 14th century. 

Railway to CompQgne, see pp. 70, 69; to Laon, see p. 75. — A narrow- 
gauge railway runs from Soissons via (91/2 M.) Condd-sur- Aisne (Roman 
camp; church and chapel of the 12th cent.) to (361/2 M.) Guignicourt (p. 64) 
whence it is continued to Rethel (p. 93; 23 M. farther). 

Beyond Soissons the line to Rheirns ascends the valley of the 
Aisne to (72 M.) Ciry-Sermoise, where it enters that of its tributary 
the Vesle. — 76 M. Braisne (Croix-d'Or), a large village 1/2 M. to the 
N.W., contains, in the *Church of St. Yved, a most interesting 
example of early French Gothic (12th cent.), strongly resembling 
in style the cathedrals of Laon and Treves; unfortunately the porch 
and part of the nave have been destroyed. Braisnes was formerly 
^nrfw ^r ^^® Merovingian kings. — 80 M. Bazoches, and thence to 
(99V2 M.) Rheirns (buffet), see p. 81. 

6* 



84 Route 13. RUEIMS. Praetical Notes. 

c. Via, Meaux and Epernay. 

107 M. Railway in 23/i-\^U lirs. (fares as in R. 12 a). The trains start from - 
the Gare de TEst (PI. C, 24). 

From Paris to (88 M.) Epernay, see R. 15. — The railway to 
Rheims trends to the left and crosses the Marne and the parallel 
canal. At (90 M.) Ay, or A'/ (Hot. des Voyageurs; Lion d'Or), 
champagne of excellent quality is produced, and we are now in the 
centre of the champagne vineyards. 92 M. Avenay, birthplace of 
Gaston Paris (1839-1903). The country becomes hilly and wooded. 
Beyond (97 M.) Germaine we thread a tunnel 2 M. long beneath 
the MontJoU (900 ft.), the highest point of the so-called Montagne 
de Reims. 100 M. RiUy-la-Montagne is noted for its wines. Distant 
view of Rheims to the right. The train crosses the Vesle and the 
Aisne and Marne Canal. — 107 M. Rheims (buffet), see below. 

13. Kheims. 

Hotels. *Gr.-Hot. dd Lion-d'Or (PI. b; C, 4), opposite the cathedra], 
with first-rate cuisine and cellar, R. from 6, B. IV2, dej. a la carte, D. 5, 
pens, from 14, omn. 8/4 fr. ; 'Grand-Hotkl (PI. a; C, 4), near the cathedral, 
R. from 3, B. IV2, dej. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens, from 11, oran. 8/4 fr. •, Ge.-Hot. 
Continental (PI. c-, B, 3), opposite the station, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. or 
D. 3, pens, from 8. omn. 1/2 fr. ; Gr -Hot. dd "Nord (PI. f; B, 3), Place 
Drouet-d'Erlon 75, R. from 3, B. 1, dt'j. or D. 3, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr..^ 
good; Hot. dd Commkrce et Mi^tropole (PI. d; C, 3, 4), Rue Robert-de- 
Concy 2, R. from 3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 10, omn. 1/2 fr-i »« 
l'Edrope (PL e; B, 4), Rue Buirette 29, commercial, R. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 
or D. 2V2, omn. 1/2 fr.; de Metz (PI. g; B, 3), Rue de Talleyrand 57, 
ddj. 21/2, D. 3 fr.; de la Crotx-d'Or, Rue Buiret-te 22. — Pensions. 
Castella, Boul. de la Paix 19 bis, 20 R., pens. 8-15 fr. ; Maison Jehcmne- 
dTArc, Rue de Talleyrand 49, for ladie.«, 2o R., pens. 8-10 fr. 

Restaurants. Taverne Flamande^ Rue de TEtape 37, dej. 2V4, D. 2V2 fr. ; 
Restaurant- rntel de la Place Royale, Rue du Cloitre 9, behind the cathedral, 
dei. IV2, D. 2 fr. — Brasseries. De Strasbourg., Rue de TKtape 18, dej, 
2V2fr., well spoken of; Alsacienne. Place Drouet-d'Erlon 76; Buffet, at the 
station, good. 

Cafes. De la Banque, Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville 4 ; du Palais, Rue de 
Vesle 6, opposite the theatre, with restaurant; de Paris, Rue Chanzy 4. I 
Cabs. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. IV4 fr. ; with two horses, i-\ 
pers. 1 fr. 40 c.; at night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m., in winter 7 a.m.) 1 fr. 40j 
1 fr 75 1 fr 90 c. Per hour, 2 fr.. 2 fr. 25, 2 fr. 80 e. (outside the octroiJ 
limits 2'/2 <fe 3 fr.); at night 2 fr. 80 c, 3fr., 3 fr. 25 c. Each box 20 c. 

Electric Tramways (comp. Plan). 1. From the Faubourg de Paru 
(PI. A, 5) to the Faubourg C&res (Cimetiere de TEst, comp. PI. E, 2), whit* 
pennon. — 2. From the Faubourg de Laon (PI. A, 1) to the Pont Huof 
(Dieu-Lumiere; PI. E, 7), red pennon. — 3. From NeufcMtel (comp; 
PI. B, 1) via the Avenue de Laon and the Rues Chanzy and Gambetta Xl 
FUchambault (PI. C, 6), white and blue pennon. — 4. From the Faubouri 
de Clairmarais (PI. A, 2) via the station and the Faubourg Ce'res to tW 
Rue de Cernay (PI. E, 3), white and red pennon. — 5. Circular rout^ 
from the Pont Neuf (PI. C, 5) via the outer boulevards and the statioil 
back to the Pont Neuf, blue and red pennon. Fares, including 'correspondancel 
2nd cl. 10 c, 1st cl. 15 c. — The cars stop at the white-painted posts. ' 

Theatres. Orand-TMdtre (PI. C, 4), Rue de Vesle 1 (50 c. -4fr.). 
Cirque, Bonl. de la Republique. — Casino, Rue de FEtape 20. 



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Cathedral. RHEIMS. 13. Route. 85 

.7,, ^««t& Telegraph Offices, Rue C^res 30 (PI. C, 3), Rue Gambetta 64 
(PI. D, 5), Avenue de Laon ItJ (PI. B, 2), Rue de Vesle 151 (PI B i) 

Baths. Bairn Rimois, Rue de Vesle 147 ; Bains de SanU, Bains Neptune, 

Place Drouet-d'Erlon 52 and 59. ■> i' i 

Banks. Banque (te France (PI. C, 3), Place de THotel-de-Ville 1; Credit 

Lyonnuts, Rue Carnot 25; Comptoir d'Escompte, Rue Carnot U- Soci^U 

Oenerale, Rue Courmeaux 18. ' 

American Consul, William Bardel. British Vice-Consul, /. W. Lewthwaite. 
irench Reformed Church, Boul. Lundy 10; service at 10. 
Rheims, Ft. Reims, one of the most historically interesting cities 
of France, with 109,859 inhab., is situated on the right bank of the 
Vesle, in a plain bounded by vine-clad hills. It is the seat of an 
archbishop, an important centre of the champagne industry, and car- 
ries on very extensive manufactures of wooUen and merino fabrics. 
Rheims, the ancient Dtirocortorum, the capital of the Remi, was an im- 
portant town even under the Romans. Christianity was preached here 
towards the end of the 3rd cent. , the consul Jovinus being one of the 
earliest converts. After the Vandals and the Huns had ceased to harass 
It Kheims became a religious centre of the first importance. On Christmas 
D^^' o. ' vT^^^^Tr'^f^ baptised here by St. Remigius, Bishop of Rheims: 
Pope Stephen IV. here crowned Louis the Debonair in 816: and Coun- 
cils were held in the city in 1049, 1119, 1131, and 1148. Since the be- 
^1"*^°^ J^ ^\^ Capetian dynasty Rheims has been the place of coronation 
of the French kings (see p. 87), the only exceptions being Hugh Capet, 
who was crowned at Noyon (p. 70), Henri IV, at Chartres, Napoleon^I. 
at Pans, and Louis XVIII., Louis Philippe, and Napoleon III., who were 
•4?nn^^t'. ^^ *"• ^^® ™*^^* famous coronation was that of Charles VII 
'S I '. ^^}ch was brought about through the efforts of Joan of Arc, after 
she had driven the English from the walls. In the 16th cent. Rheims 
where there was an English seminary, was a great centre of the Roman 
Catholic activity against Queen Elizabeth and England. 

The washing and combing of the fine wools used in the manufacture 
ot merinos, cashmeres, and the fine flannel for which Rheims is celebrat- 
ed, are almost exclusively carried on in establishments owned by En<r- 
lish firms. Messrs. Holden & Son of Bradford, Yorkshire, have branches 
here and at Croix-Roubaix (p. 51). Connected with their Rheims estab- 
lishment IS a colony of about 100 English people. 

In the square in front of the station (PI. B, 3) is a bronze statue, 
by Guillaume, of Colbert (1619-83), the illustrious minister of 
Louis XIV., who was born at Rue Ceres 13, and in the Place Drouet- 

o^/^^/J'n/S^^^^ ^®^^® *^®^^® *° *^® ^•^•' "^®^ *^® tasteful Fontaine 
Sube (1906), with symbolical representations of the industries and 
rivers of the district. Beyond the Church of St. James (PI. B, C, 4; 
i2-18th cent.) we reach the Rue de Vesle, in which, to the left' 
ire the Theatre and the Palais de Justice (PI. C, 4). The short street 
between these leads direct to the cathedral, in front of which rises 
i small equestrian statue of Joan of Arc, by Paul Dubois (1896) 
The **Cathedral of Notre -Dame (PI. C, 4), one of the most 
nagniflcent examples of the early -Gothic style, was founded in 
L211. The choir (finished in 1241), the transepts, part of the nave, 
ind finally the superb *W. Facade all date from the 13th century. 
Ihe last, 'perhaps the most beautiful structure produced in the 
Hiddle Ages' (Fergusson), is adorned with three exquisite recessed 
>ortals, containing about 530 statues, some of which, however, have 
luffered from the ravages of time. 



86 Route 13. RHETMS. Cathedral. 

'Nothing can exceed the majesty of its deeply-recessed portals, the 
beauty of the rose-window that surmounts them, or the elegance of the 
gallery that completes the facade and serves as a basement to the light 
and graceful towers that crown the composition' (Fergusson). 

Though the tympana of the portals are, curiously enough, occupied 
by rose-windows in lieu of sculptures, the sides and overhead vaulting 
of the arches, as well as the gables above them, are most elaborately and 
beautifully adorned with statues and carving. Central Portal: at the 
sides and "in the gable. Scenes from the life of the Virgin; in the vaulting, 
angels, ancestors of the Virgin, confessors, martyrs, and holy virgins; on 
the lintel and jambs, the months and seasons; on the pier. Virgin and 
Child. — Left Portal: at the sides. Patron-saints of the cathedral, guardian 
angels, the arts and sciences; on the lintel, Conversion of St. Paul; in 
the gable vaulting and adjacent arch, Scenes from the Passion, and the 
Invention of the Cross. — Right Portal : at the sides. Patriarchs, apostles, 
angels, vices, and virtues; on the lintel, History of St. Paul; in the vault- 
ing and adjoining arch, End of the world (from the Apocalypse). 

The facade above the portals is pierced by three large windows, 
the magnificent *Rose Window in the centre being nearly 40 ft. in 
diameter. Sculpture also is lavishly employed. In niches in turrets 
at the spring of the towers are figures of Christ and St. John (left), 
and the Madonna and St. Paul (right). Then, at the same height, 
the other Apostles, David, Saul, History of Darvid and Solomon, 
David and Goliath. Still higher, extending quite across the facade, 
is a row of 42 colossal statues in niches, representing the Baptism of 
Clovis, in the middle, with the Kings of France at the sides. The 
two fine W. *Towers (14th cent.), with their large windows and aerial 
turrets, are 267 ft. high. The spires were never exec^ited. The 
belfry (59 ft.) on the ridge of the chevet, which is decorated with 
eight colossalstatues, was built about 1485 alter a fire. 

The *N. Portal, with statues of bishops of Rheims, etc., is 
also very fine. Beside it is another doorway, now walled up, the 
tympanum of which is filled with a masterpiece of the early-Gothic 
period, representing the Last Judgment, the finest figure in which 
is the 'Beau Dieu', or Christ in an attitude of benediction. Adjacent 
is another pretty Doorway, with a Romanesque tympanum, probably 
a relic of an earlier church. — The S. transept is adjoined by the 
bishop's palace, and has no portal. — Other noteworthy features 
of the exterior are the statues in niches crowning the buttresses, 
the fine flying buttresses themselves, and the open arcade just below 
the spring of the roof. 

Intekior. The church, which is cruciform, is 455 ft. long, 99 ft. wide, 
and 125 ft. high. The transepts are short, and are divided into nave and 
aisles. This church has escaped restoration more successfully than most 
other cathedrals and has therefore preserved an air of striking simplicity 
and almost severity. Th e bright light admitted through the lower windows, 
which lost their stained glass in the l8th cent., contrasts disagreeably 
with the subdued light filtering through the magnificent 13th cent. ' Windows 
above. — Elaborate *Frainewoi'k surrounds the portals, which are embel- 
lished with 122 statues in niches. The statues at the principal portal 
represent the death of St. Nicasius, the first archbishop of Rheims. — l^ 
the nave and transepts is preserved some valuable tapestry, comprising 
the 'Tapisseries de Lenoncourt\ fourteen pieces representing scenes form 
the life of the Virgin, and named after the donor (1530); two 'TapiS 



Archiepiec. Palace. RHEIMS. 73. Route. 87 

series du Fort Roi Clovis', presented in 1573, but of a much greater anti- 
quity; two 'Tapisseries de Pepersaek' (comp. below), presented in 1640; 
and two elaborate pieces of the 19th cent., after Raphaers cartoons of St. 
Paul at Lystra and St, Paul on Mars Hill. In the S. transept is a 
painting hj Poutxin (Shower of Manna), and in the adjoining chapel are 
an altar-piece by Pierre Jacques of Rheiuis (d.|1596) and a crucifix of the 15th 
century, — The Clock^ with mechanical figures, in the N. transept, dates 
from the 16th century. 

The Choir embraces not only the crossing but also two bays of the 
nave, an extension demanded by the ceremonies at the coronation of the 
Kings of France (see p. 85). The possession of the Sainte Ampoule (see 
below) probably led to the choice of this cathedral as the coronation- 
place; and on the Archbishops of Rheims, as Primates of the kingdom, 
devolved the honour of performing the ceremony. 

The 'Treasury is open 9-12 and 2-5 (Sun. & holidays 1.30-2,30); free. 
It contains some costly reliquaries and ch arch-plate, a chalice and mon- 
strances of the 12-14th cent., vessels and ornaments used at the coronations 
of different kings, including the Vase of St. Ursula (16th cent,), the 
massive gold *Chalice of St. Remigius (11th cent.), an ivory liturgical 
comb (12th cent.), crucifixes of the ll-12th cent., and the Sainte Ampoule. 
The last is the successor of the famous Ampulla Remensis, which a dove 
is said to have brought from heaven filled with inexhaustible holy oil at 
the baptism of Clovis in 496. During the Revolution the sacred vessel 
was shattered, but a fragment was piously preserved, in which some of 
the oil was said still to remain. This was carefully placed in a new Sainte 
Ampoule, and used at the coronation of Charles X. in 1825. 

Tickets (1/2 fr. and fee) for the ascent (recommended) of the Outer and 
Inner Galleries and of the Towers may be obtained at the principal entrance. 

To the S. of the cathedral is the Archiepiscopal Palace (PI. 0, 4 ; 
apply to the concierge), a large and Jiandsome edifice dating from 
the 15-1 7th centuries. The Grande Salle or Salle du Tau (1498), the 
hall where the coronation banquet was given, has a tine Gothic timber 
roof and chimney-piece, and contains five 'tapisseiies de Pepersack' 
(see above), and modern portraits of fourteen kings crowned at Rheims. 
The Chapel (1230), in two stories, contains some good tapestry. 
The court commands a good view of the S. side of the cathedral. 

The short street running to the N. from the E. end of the cath- 
edral leads us to the regularly-built Place Royale (PI. C, 3), which 
is embellished with a bronze statue of Louis XV. ^ erected in 1818 
in the place of one destroyed at the Revolution. The original figures 
of Mild Government and Popular Happiness still adorn the base. — 
The broad Rue Colbert connects this square with the Place des 
Mo/rches (PI. 0, 3), to the N., No. 9 in which is the Maison de V Enfant- 
drOr (Roy), with a 15th cent, timber facade. In the Rue de Tambour 
(Nos. 18 and 20), to the right, is the House of the Musicians, the 
most interesting of the many quaint old houses in Rheims (late 
13th cent.). The Maison Couvert (1522), at the corner of the Rue 
du Marc (No. 1), the Hotel de La Salle (1545), Rue de I'Arbalete 4, 
in which the Abbe' de La Salle, founder of the Freres de la Doctrine 
Chre'tienne, was born in 1661, and a pretty 16th cent, building in 
the Rue Linguet may be mentioned also. 

The H6tel de Ville (PI. C, 3), reached by the Rue Colbert, 
is a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, begun in 1627 under 



88 Route 13. RHEIMS. 

TiOuis XIII. (whose equestrian statue adorns the pediment), but 
tinished only iu 1888. It is surmounted by a lofty campanile, and 
contains a Library of 120,000 vols., 200 incunabula, and 1800 MSS. 
(open daily, except Mon., 10-4, on Sun. 12-4), and the public AfMsees. 

The latter (o]>' n on Sun. and Thurs. 1-4, but accessible on other days 
also 10-12 & 1-4) include a collection of paintings, embracing a few 
German, Flemish, and Dutch paintings, a large triptych of the school of 
Rheims (15th cent.), and some modern works; a museum illustrating the 
manufacture of champagne; collections of fayence and china; a Japanese 
collection; a collection of local caricatures; a collection of scenery ('toiles 
peintes') used in mystery plays in the 15th cent. ; an antiquarian museum ; 
and an archHeological museum". On the first floor is a large Roman mosaic, 
discovered at Rheims, 36 ft. long by 26 ft. broad, representing the sports 
of the amphitheatre. 

The Galerie Hexrt Vasnier, Boulevard Lundy 72 fPl. C, D, 2, 3), a 
fine collection of modern French paintings (CoroL Conrbet., Millet^ Rousseau, 
Meissonier, etc.), was bequeathed to the city in 1907. Adm. on application. 

The chief Roman monument at Rheims is the *Porte de Mars 
(PI. B, C, 2), a triple gateway or triumphal arch, reached from the 
Hotel de Ville by the Rue Henri-Quatre. It is referred to the 4th 
cent, of our era. On the central archway are represented the Months 
(five destroyed); on the right archway, Romulus and Remus; and 
on the left archway, Leda and the Swan. The fluting of the eight 
Corinthian columns on the outer side should be noticed. 

The modern church of 8t. Thomas (PI. J3, 1, 2), built in the style of the 
14th cent., and situated in the suburb of Laon, beyond the railway, 
contains the tomb and statue of Cardinal Gousset, Archbishop of Rheims 
(d. 1866). ; 

The most ancient ecclesiastical building in Rheims is the abbey 
church of *St. Remi (Pl.D, 5, 6), at the extreme S. end of the town 
(tramways Nos. 2 & 3, see p. 84), which, though freely altered in 
modern times, 'retains the outlines of a vast and noble basilica of 
the early part of the Uth cent., presenting considerable points of 
similarity to those of Burgundy' (Fergusson). The first church on this 
site was founded in the 6th cent., but this was practically rebuilt in 
the ll-12th cent., while the Flamboyant facade and S. end of the 
S. transept date from about 1506. The W. fa(jade is in the Gothic 
style of the 12th cent., but both the towers are Romanesque; the N. 
tower was entirely rebuilt in the 19th cent., when the whole facade 
was restored. The nave also is Romanesque, but the choir is Gothic. 

The •Interior produces an efifect of great dignity. The aisles are pro- 
vided with galleries, that in the N. aisle containing tapestries presented 
by Rob. de Lenoncourt, the donor of those in the cathedral (p. 86). 
The choir, like the choir of the cathedral, is continued into the nave; 
part of it is surrounded by a tasteful marble screen of the time of 
Louis XIII. The choir-windows are still filled with magnificent stained glass 
of the ll-13th centuries. Off the apse open five chapels, with arcades sup- 
ported by graceful columns. Behind the high-altar is the "Tomb of St. Remi 
or Remigiut, in the style of the Renaissance, but restored in 1847 for the 
tMrd time. It presents the form of a kind of temple in coloured marbles, 
with a group in white marble representing the saint baptising Clovis, 
surrounded by white marble statues of the Twelve Peers of France (the 
Bishops of Rheims, Laon, Langres, Beauvais, Chalons, and Noyon, the 
Dukes of Burgundy, Normandy, and Aquitaine, and the Counts of Flanders, 
Champagne, and Toulouse). These statues are the only relics of the tomb 



PONT-A-MOUSSON. 14. Route, 89 

of 1533-37, which was destroyed at the Revolution. — The S transpnt 
contains a Holy Sepulchre of 1532 and three high-reliefs of 1610 renrespn? 
ing the Baptisms of Christ, Constantine, and cfovis. - ke treasuryfs'hown 
dai y until 4 or 6 p.m., con ains an enamelled cross of the 18th cent, and 
tX) Limoges enamels (apply to the sacristan, Place St. Remi 6; 50 c.). 

The Hotel Dieu or Hospital, adjoining the church, occupies the 
former abbey of St. Remi, part of the cloisters of which contain a 
Mmee Lapidaire (ancient, medieval, and Renaissance sculptures 
including the *Cenotaph of Jovinus, p. 85), open on Sun. 1-4 on 
other days on application (concierge, Rue Simon 53) ' 

Reside the chun^h of St. Maurice (PI. D, 5), rebuilt since 1867 
18 the Hupital General, occupying a former college of the Jesuits 
(fine library-hall). 

The quaint Place St. Timothee, in the old quarter between St Eemi 
^°^\^ftA7?"i'"^^^ Victor;Hugo and' the H6tel Firet de MonUaurent {vi. It- 
iw thPl^H^ ^^?".b^t^^ 137, will appeal to lovers of archftect^re! 
W the latter, at the junction of the Boulevard Victor-Hugo and Boule- 

nallle of Rh^ims.^ ' '*"*''" ""^ ^''^'^''' ^^^'"^^^^^^^'"^(1765-18^) a 

i.M\o^o\^''J ^"^ ^S^'""^ !^.^"^'^ ^^'^* ^°^ «f t^« ^«st Champagne Cellars 
to the S P^^rrrf *^' °».ost important being those of the Maison Fommerp, 
10 the b.E. ot the town, in the Boul. Gerbert (PI. E, 6; apply at the office 

SnJ, lieTiir''^- ^'^ ^^ ^^««-* <'^ *^« P--- of c^ampfgSl' 

ing thrvi^iyTdr:>t'Te^S:gt' ^dr/^RS3^"Tn??^A"ni^''^^^- 

"u'tnTcon'rti Jq ^'''''^^•^^^(Croix Blanche), on the line from Soisonsto 

to ^z^;:v:^:i:^:Xii'^ *« ^-"' p- «^^ ^o%.jn., pp. 64, r,i 

14. From Paris to Metz. 

a. ViS, Clifi.Ions and Frouard. 

10 M\^'m'"i^'"ii^4?r"%^^ ^^^\r'^\ ^' 2*^ ^^ "^-^^V. hrs. (fares U fr. 
iv, /» ir. yu, ly fr. 3U c; less via Verdun, see p. 93). 

From Paris to (214 M.) Frouard, see R. 15. The train returns 
n the direction of Paris for about 1/2 M. — 215 M. Pompey (3119 
nhab.J, with iron-mines and extensive factories. 

iqi/ M?°;^^"'"*"'^f.^''*'°,' ^^"""^ ^'^ (I'AM.) Custines, formerly Co«d^ to 
he'seml. ""'""'' ^"''- ^^ C'^"^™^-^^)' ^ ^rnan though ancient town' on 

We now enter the beautiful valley of the Moselle, and after cross- 
ng the river continue to foUow its left bank almost the whole way 
Aletz. A canal also runs along the left bank. - 222 M. Dieulouard 
Hot du Commerce), commanded by a hill bearing a ruined castle, 
n this neighbourhood was situated the Roman town of Scar pona, 
oted for a defeat of the AUemanni by Jovinus in 366. 
>.,/. p Pont-^-Mousson (Hotel de France, Place Duroc; de la 
^Tlh .^f J^«t«^-H"go, near the station), an attractive town of 
^,04cJ mhab., situated on the Moselle. The triangular Place Diiroc 



90 Route 1 4. NOVEANT. From Pafi$ 

surrounded with arcades, contains the Hotel de Ville and a handsoiiif 
House (No. G) in the Renaissance style, decorated with sculptures. 

The late-Gothic church of St. Laurent^ with a 17th cent, facade 
has interesting vaulting and (in the 2nd chapel on the left) a curiouf 
16th cent, altar-piece. — The Rue du Pont leads from the end oi 
the Place Duroc to the old town, crossing the Moselle hy a bridge 
built in the 16th century. To the left of the latter is the church o: 
St. Martin (13-15th cent.), with two handsome towers, containing i 
tine Holy Sepulchre in the right aisle, and a gallery of the 15th cent, 
now used as the organ-loft. — Farther to the N. is the church O' 
St. Mary (1705), with an ancient abbey, now a seminary. 

On a hill (1010 ft.) to the E. of the town i'* the little village of Mousson 
with the scanty ruins of a Castle. The tower of the Chapel of the casflt 
U surmounted by a statue of Joan of Arc, by the Duchesse d'Uzes. 

232 M. Pagny-8ur-Moselle (Buffet; Hotel-Cafe de la Gare), h 
the frontier-station, with the French custom-house. Good wine U 
produced on the hills of the left bank. About 1^4 M. to the W. S.W 
are the extensive ruins of the Chateau de Preny, built by the dukei 
of Lorraine and dismantled by Card. Richelieu. — Railway t( 
Longuyon via Conflans-Jarny, see p. 92. 

235 M. Noveant (Buffet)^ the German frontier-station, with th« 
German custom-house. German time is 55 min. in advance ofParisiar 
time. Corny, connected with Noveant by a suspension-bridge, was th( 
German headquarters during the siege of Metz. — 2377-2 M. Anc%^ 
sur-Moselle. At J ouy-aux- Arches, which lies to the right, and a' 
(239 M.) Ars-sur-Moselle, with iron-works, are perceived the exten- 
sive remains of a Roman *Aqueduct, 60 ft. in height and 1220 yds 
in length, constructed by Drusus to bring water to Divodurum\ 
the modern Metz. Qravelotte (omn.) lies 41/2 M. to the N.E., in th( 
valley of the Mance. The train crosses the Moselle. To the righ' 
are the fort of St. Privat and the chateau of Frescati; to the lef 
Mt. St. Quentin. 

244 M. Metz, see p. 99. 

b. Via, Ch&lons and Verdun. 

216 M. Railway in 8V3-IIV4 hrs. (fares 38 fr. 95, 26 fr. 25, 17 fr. 5 c.}. 
The trains start from the Gare de TEst (PI. C, 24). 

From Paris to (1071/2 M.) Chdlons-sur-Marne, see R. 15. Thence 
to (118 M.) St. Hilaire-ait-Temple, the junction for Rheims, see 
p. 65. — 1211/2 ^' Cuperly, near the large military Camp dt 
Chalons (p. 65). 

At La Cheppe^ 2^/2 M. to the E,, is a large circular entrenchment, known 
as Attila's Camp, though really an ancient Roman camp or a Gallic oppi- 
dum. The Campi Catalauni, where Attila was defeated by Jitius in 451 at 
the famous battle of Chalons (p. 104), were therefore probably adjacent. 

140 M. Valmy (Hotel), noted for the defeat of the Allies under 
the Duke of Brunswick by the French under Dumouriez and Keller- 
mann in 1792. This was the famous 'Cannonade of Valmy', 'whereiu 



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to Mttz. VERDUN. 14. Route. 91 

the French Sansculottes did not fly like poultry' (Carlyle). A pyr- 
amid on the battlefield, to the S. of the -village, contains the heart 
ofKellermann, Due deValmy (1747-1820), and Ms statuewas added 
in 1892. Dumouriez, having afterwards deserted to the enemy, ig 
ignored. The train descends through the fertile valley ofth^Aisne. 

146 M. Ste. Menehould ( Hotel de Metz; St. Nicolas), on the Aisne, 
a town with 4992 inhab., noted for its pork. Part of the Walls of 
the old town are preserved, and also a Church, dating from the 13- 
14th centuries. No. 8 in the Avenue Victor-Hugo was the posting- 
station where Louis XVI. was recognized by 'Old-Dragoon Drouet' 
on his attempted flight from France in June, 1791 (comp. p. 93). — 
Railway from Hirson to Revigny and Bar-le-Duc, see p. 66. 

A well-wooded and picturesque district is now traversed, includ- 
ing the Forest ofArgonne, well-known from the campaign of 1792. — 
154 M. Oermon«-6n-ilrponne (Belle- Vue, pens. 7-81/2 fr.), on a hill 
to the right (branch to Bar-le-Duc, see p. 108). — From(157V2 M.) 
Aubreville an omnibus plies to Varennes-en-Argonne (p. 93). " 

174 M. Verdun (comp. the Plan, p. 91). — Hotels. Trois Macbes 
:P1. a; C, 3), Rue de rH6tel-de-Ville 7, R. from 3, B. I-IV2, d^j. or D, 31/2, 
pens from. 91/2, omn. 1 fr.; Coq Haedi (PI. b; B, 2), R. from 31/2, B. 1, 
lej. o, D. dV2, pens, trom 8, omn. 1 fr., Petit St. Martin (PI. c; B, 2), Rue 
iu St. Esprit 8 and 2; Cloche d'Or, Place St. Paul. — Cafes in the Place 
^hevert, Rue de rH6tel-de-Ville, and Rue St. Paul. — BufFet at the 
station. — Cabs. Per drive 1-2 pers. 60 c, 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, 4 pers. 1 fr. 
)0c.; per hr., I1/2, 2, 21/2 fr.; double fare after midnight. — Tramway 
rem the station, 20 c. o j 

Verdun, a first-class fortress and an episcopal see with 21,706 
nhab., is situated on the Meuse, which divides at this point into 
ieveral branches. The narrow, winding streets of the upper town 
ire most picturesque. 

Verdun, the Roman Virodunum, holds an important place in early Europ- 
ean history, for by the Treaty of Verdun in 843 the possessions of Charle- 
magne were divided among his three grandsons, Lothaire, Louis the Ger- 
man and Charles the Bald (p. xxiv), and the French and German members 
)l the empire were never again united. The town was early the seat of 

I Dishop, and remained a free imperial town until 1552, when it was tak- 
sn Dy the French, although it was not formally united to France until 
he Peace of Westphalia in 1648, by which Austria gave up the three fam- 
)U8 bishoprics of Verdun , Toul , and Metz. Verdun was bombarded by 
he Irussians m 1792, and, having surrendered after a few hours, the in- 
iaoitants accorded an amicable reception to the conquerors, to whom a 
>arty of young girls made an offering of the bonbons ('dragees^ for which 
/erdun is noted. The Revolutionists recovered the town after the battle 

II vaimy, and sent three of these innocent maidens to the scaffold. The 
own was again bombarded by the Germans in 1370, and taken after a gal- 
ant resistance of three weeks. 

^ The Avenue de la Gare leads straight to the town through the 
orte St. Paul, beyond which are the Palais de Justice (PI. B, 1) 
nd the College (PI. B, 2). The first street diverging to the left 
sads to the Porte Chaussee (PI. C, 2), a gateway (partly 15th cent.) 
nth two crenelated towers, now used as a military prison. Beyond 
t IS a bridge across the Meuse. — Th« Rue Mazel, to which we 



92 Route 14. CONFLANS-JARNY. From Paris 

return, leads to another bridge across the main channel of the river. 
On the left bank is the Place (Jhevert (PI. B, G, .'3), embellished in, 
1865 with a bronze statue, by Lemaire, of (ieneral Chevert (1695- 
1769 j, a native of the town, distinguished for his capture and defence 
of Prague (1741-42). — The Tkeatre (PI. B, 3), on the Quai de la 
Come'die, to the right before the bridge, overlooks the attractive 
Promenade de la Digue. — In the court of the Hotel de Ville (PI. 
C, 3; 1623) are four cannons presented to the town by the French 
Government in memory of its gallant resistance in 1870. The left 
wing contains the Musee (free on Sun. 2-4; 50 c. on Thurs.). — 
The Public Library (PI. B, 3; open Thurs. & Sun. 2-4), near the 
Canal des Augustins, contains 52,000 vols, and valuable MSS. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame (PI. B, 2, 3), in the upper part of 
the town, dates from the ll-12th cent., but has been much altered 
in the 14th and 17th, especially in the interior. The aisles are now 
divided from the nave by semicircular arches. The space beneath 
the organ in the W. apse is occupied by a fine Chapel. The high-altar 
is placed heneath a gilded canopy, resting on marble columns. In 
the S. transept are a relief dating from 1555 and a marble statue 
of Notre Dame de Verdun. 

The Bishop^s Palace and the Grand Seminaire (PI. A, B, 3) 
adjoin the cathedral. From the Place de la Roche (PI. A, 3) a good 
view is obtained, to the W., of the pastoral valley of the Meuse i 
Beyond the Pla.ce rises the Citadel {PI. A, 2, 3; no adm.). 

Verdun is also a station on the railway from Sedan to L^rouville (Nancy; 
see p. 97). — To Bar-le-Duc, see p. 108. 

The railway to Metz crosses the Meuse, ascends an incline 
(Cotes de Meuse) on the other bank (view to the right), passes 
through a tunnel ^/^ M. long, and beyond the plateau of the 
Woevre enters the valley of the Moselle. 

187V2 M. Etain (Hot. de la SireneJ, on the Orne (3082 inhab.), , 
has an interesting church of the 13th and 15th cent., in which is a 
Madonna attributed to Ligier Richier (pp. 97, 107). 

199 M. Conflans - Jarny (Buffet- Hotel), near the confluence of 

the Orne and Yron. 

Conflans-Jarny is the junction of the railway from Longuyon to Pagny- 
sur-Moselle (see p. 90). The first station to the S. is (SVz M.) Mars-la-Tour 
(see p. 98). — A narrow-gauge railway runs from Conflans-Jarny to (19 M.j 
Atidun-le- Roman (p. 99) via (41/2 M.) Valleroy-Moineville (junction for Homi- 
couri-Joeuf) and (8 M.) Briey (H6t. de la Croix-B lanche ; de la Gave), an 
industrial town with 2630 inhabitants. 

204 M. Balilly, with the French custom-house. The train then 
crosses the battlefield of Oravelotte. 

208 M. Amanvillers (buffet; hotel opposite), the first German 
station, with the German custom-house. German time is 55 mio. 
in advance of Parisian time. Gravelotte lies 41/2 M. to the S., St.Privat 
(omnibus) 1^4 M. to the N., and Ste. Marie-aux-Chen©s 2V2 M. to. J 
the N.W. 



to Mttz. RETIJEL. 1 4. Route. 93 

We change carriages at Amanvillers, and descend the valley of 
Monvaux. On the left are the forts of Plappeville and St. Quentin. — 
213 M. Moulins-les-Metz. The line to Thionville (p. 99) is seen to 
the left. The train crosses the Moselle^ joins the railway from Frouard 
(R. 14a), and then the line from Saarbriicken and Strasshurg. 

216 M. Metz, see p. 99. 

c. ViS, Rheims and Verdun. 
(Rheims- Chalons.) 

220 M. in 974-118/4 hrs., 2221/2 M. in 93/4-I2V2 hrs. , or 230 M. in 10'/-^- 
I2V2 hrs. , according as Rheims is reached via La Ferte-Milon (Ligne de 
1 Est), via Soissons (Ligne du Nord). or via Epernay (Ligne de TEst). Fares 
about 42 fr., 28 fr. 50, 18 fr. 50 c. f j y & 

From Paris to (97-107 M.) Rheims, see R. 12. Thence to (122 M. 
from Paris via La Ferte'-Milon ; 21/2 or 10 M. more hy the other 
routes) St. BUaire-au- Temple, where we join the railway to Metz 
via Chalons and Verdun (R. 14b), see pp. 64, 65. 

d. ViS, Rheims and Mezieres-Charleville. 
(Oivet, Namur, Luxembourg.) 
259 M. in 91/4-143/, hrs., 26IV2 M. in 93/4-I51/2 hra. , or 269 M. in IOV4- 
IDV2 nrs., according as Rheims is reached via La Ferte-Milon, via Soissons 
or via Epernay. Fares 45 fr. 70, 30 fr. 85, 20 fr, 15 c. 

From Paris to (97-107 M.) Rheims, see R. 12. — IO2V2 M. 
[from Paris vi;\ La Ferte'-Milon, 2V2 and 10 M. more by the other 
routes) WHry-les-Reims. — 107V2 M. Bazancourt. 

« f ^'tT^ ?"" oA''''o''r'o.?'' Apeemont, 481/2 M., railway in 21/3-31/2 hrs. (fares 
8fr. 75, 5fp. 90, 3 fr. 85 c). The line at first follows the valley of the 
^mjDpc, with Its active woollen industry. — 33 M. Ghallerange (p. 66). 
J9 M. Orandprd has a church of the 15th century. — 48V2 M. Avremont is 
an iron -working village. About 41/2 M. to the S.W. is the little town of 
Varmnes-en-Argonm, where Louis XVI. was arrested in 1791 on his 
attempted flight from France; and 41/2 M. farther on is AubHville (p. 90- 
nmnibus), on the line from Chalons to Verdun. ' 

Beyond (116 V2M.) Tagnon the train passes through a tunnel and 
niters the basin of the Aisne, where the scenery becomes more varied. 

120 V2 M. Rethel (Hot. de France; du Commerce), an industrial 
.own with 6708 inhab., is partly situated on a hill to the right of the 
Visne and of the Canal des Ardennes, which connects the Aisne 
ind the Meuse. The church of St. Nicholas is in reality formed of two 
ihurches, different both in size and style, placed end to end. The 
West part, dating from the 13th cent., belonged originaUy to a priory, 
he Hotel Dieu and several other edifices in the town date from the 
.7th century. — To Guignicourt and Soissons, see p. 83. 

■e 5trn\^2m^7h*^nnn/- '%*?i^ ^'^^^T °^ ^^'•*'"^' ^i^tl^Place of Robert 
V i« £;.! K-':?'i *o^°'l^^ of the Sorbonne at Paris; and 21/2 M. to the 

'e autJor'kt'e'^i^rimltSn?^^^ "^^^'"^'^ "^''^'^^ *° ^« 

i'llU.Amagne-Lucquy (buffet-hotel), with a large sugar factory, 
B also a station on the line from Hirson to Revigny (see p. 661. 



94 Route li. Ml<:ZlfcKES-CHARLEVILL. From Paris 

Beyond (131 V^M-JiSai^^cca-Afoncim the railway enters the wooded 
and mountainous district of the Ardennes. — 141^2 M. Poix-Terron 
(Hot. de la Gare). 

A narrow-fiauge line runs hence via (ISVa M.) Vendresse (junction for 
Raucnurt, p. 97) to (25 M.) Chdtillon-sur-Bar (p. 66). 

To the right of the line, a little beyond (148 M.) La Francheville, 
rises the large powder factory of St. Ponce. At (I5O1/2 M.) Mohon 
are situated the workshops of the railway. We cross the Meuse twice, 
the river making a wide bend here to the left. 

151 V2 M. Mezieres-Cliarleville (* Buffet -Hotel). The station 
is at Oharleville; Mezieres lies about 3/^ M. to the left. 

Charleville. — Hotels. Lion d'Akgent (PI. a; A, 2), Rue Thiers 20, 
D. 31/2 fi'.; i>u CoMMEECK (PI. b ; B, 2), Rue de TEglise 1; dd Noed (PI. c; 
B, 3), opposite the station, R. 3-5, D. 3 fr.; de Nevees (PI. d; A, 1), 
Notre Dame, Place de Nevers 20 and 15; Terminds. 

Electric Tramways. 1. From Mohon (see PI. A, 5) to Le Moulintt (see 
PI. A, 1). via the station. 2. From the Fauhourg de Pierre (PI. A, 5) to 
the Faubourg de Flandre (PI. A, 1). 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. B, 2), Rue Victor-Cousin. 

Charleville, with 20,702 inhab., derives its name from Charles 
of Gonzaga, Duke of Nevers and Mantua and Governor of Champagne, 
who founded the town in 1606. The chief industries are nail-making 
type- founding, and the manufacture of other small hardware goods. 
The road leading from the station is met at the bridge connecting 
the two towns by a fine boulevard, which extends to the Place Ducale 
(PI. A, B, 1, 2j, in the centre of Charleville, a square bordered by 
arcades. The rest of the town is uninteresting. On the N. side rises 
Mont OlympeX<dlO ft.), a height at one time fortified, but now 
private property. 

M6zieres (Hotel du Palais-Royal, PI. e, A, 5), the chief town 
of the department of the Ardennes, with 9393 inhab., is situated on 
a peninsula formed by the Meuse, and until recently was strongly 

fortified. 

In 1521 the Chevalier Bayard, with a garrison of 2000 men, successfully 
defended Mezieres for 28 days against an Imperial army of 35,000. In 1815, 
after a siege of six weeks, the town was compelled to capitulate to the 
Germans, though not before the general pacification. In Jan. 1871 Mezieres 
surrendered after a severe bombardment. 

To the right, near the bridge which connects the two towns, is a 
War Monument of 1870-71. The only noteworthy building in Me'- 
zieres is the Parish Church (PI. A, 5), a handsome Gothic edifice of 
1499-1556, with a conspicuous Renaissance tower. The portal on the 
S. side is very richly ornamented. Within this church Charles IX. 
was married to Elizabeth of Austria in 1570. In the newer part of 
the town is a Statue of Bayard (PI. 5, A, 4; see above), by Croisy 

(1893). 

Railways to Eirson, Aulnoye, Valenciennes, Lille, and Calais, see pp. 6T- 
65; to Oivel and Namur, see pp. 78-31. 

Trains for Sedan, Thionville, and Metz , on leaving M^zieres- 
Charleville, return in the direction of Rheims as far as beyond the 








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>:r'3 /' ArffiJUmhcnia B3f 

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iOO aO O 300 400 

Metres 



to Metz. SEDAN. id. Route. 95 

station of Mohan (p. 94). Here they diverge to the left into the 
valley of the Meuse, which is crossed at (154 M.) Lumes. From 
(1591/2 M.) Vrigne-Meuse a tramvv^ay runs to (3 M.) Vrigne-aux- 
BoiSy where large quantities of hardware are produced. — 161 1/2 M. 
Donchery is the point where the German forces crossed the Meuse, 
at the battle of Sedan, in order to cut off the retreat of the French 
army to M^zieres. The railway crosses the river, and immediately 
to the right is seen the Chateau de Bellevue^ where Napoleon III, 
surrendered his sword, and where the capitulation of Sedan was 
signed on Sept. 2nd, 1870. The captured army were detained as 
prisoners for three days on the Peninsula of Iges, formed here by 
the Meuse. The bombardment of Sedan was begun by a battery 
posted on the heights of Frenois, to the right. The German army 
took up its position in that direction and stiU farther to the E., while 
the French posted themselves on the heights immediately surround- 
ing Sedan. By the end of the day the French position had been 
turned by the Germans, who had made themselves masters of the 
liills commanding it on the N. 

164 M. Sedan. — Hotels. De la Ckoix d'Or, Place Turenne, R. 
from 3, B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr; de l^Edeope, Rue Gambetta 
27, R. from 3, B. Pf*, Mj. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. ; de France, 
Place de la Halle 2, d^j. or D. 3 fr.; de la Poste, Place Verte 2. — 
Buffet at the station. 

Sedan^ a town with 19,599 inhab., formerly strongly forti- 
fled, is famous for the battle and capitulation of Sept. 1st and 
2nd, 1870 (see p. 96). Of no great antiquity, the town at one 
time belonged to the Dukes of Bouillon (p. 97), and the revolt of one 
of these noblemen in 1591 led to the siege and capture of Sedan by 
Henri IV. Sedan carries on a prosperous manufacture of fine cloth. 
Within recent years the fortifications have been removed, and their 
place largely taken by handsome new suburbs. 

From the station the Avenue Philippoteaux, crossing the Meuse 
and traversing a new suburb, leads to the Place d' Alsace-Lorraine, 
at the S. extremity of the town, in which are situated the War 
Monument for 1870, the College Turenne, and the Fondation Crussy, 
Bmbracing an asylum and a small Muse'e (adm. on application).' 
rhence the Avenue du College leads to the Place d'Armes, inwhich 
■ises the Church of St. Charles. Beyond the church is the Donjon, 
>f the 15th cent., the only relic of the ancient Castle. The Place 
rurenne, farther on, is embellished with a bronze statue of Marshal 
rurenne, erected in 1823. The marshal (1611-75), born at Sedan, 
vas the son of Henri de La Tour-d'Auvergne, Viscount of Sedan and 
)uke of Bouillon, an ambitious noble who took part in many plots 
igainst Cardinal Richelieu, and was finaUy forced to purchase his 
ife by yielding up to Louis XIII. the barony of Sedan. — Crossing 
he Meuse, we again enter a new quarter, beyond which are the via- 
luct and suburb of Torcy. From Torcy the Rue Wadelincourt leads 
»ack to the station. 



96 Route 14. SEDAN. From Paris 

The best point from which to visit the battlefield of Sedan is the 
village of Bazeilles^ about 3 M. to the S.E. (cab, 21/2-3 fr. ; tramway 
from the Place Turenno, 10 or 20 c; station, see p. 97). The road 
leads to the S. from the Place Nassau, at tlie end of the Avenue 

Philippoteaux. 

The Battle of Sedan, fought Sept. Ist, 1870, raged most licrcely in the 
neighbourhood of Bazeilles. Marshal MacMahon, acting under orders from 
Paris dictated by political rather than military considerations, and endeav- 
ouring to march from the Camp de Chalons (p. 65) to the relief of Ba- 
saine in Met/, via Montmedy (p. 97), had been forced back upon Sedan 
by the victorious armies of the Crown Prince of Prussia and the Crown 
Prince of Saxony. The French crossed the Meuse at Mouzon (p. 97) and 
took up a position on the heights of La MonceUe, Daigny^ and Givonne 
(p. 97) on the right bank of the Oivonne. a small tributary of the Meuse, 
(lowing to the E. of Bav.eilles, while their line was continued to 
the W. via Illy and Floing , until it rested upon the Meuse near the 
peninsula of Iges (p. 95). The battle began at daybreak, and from 4.30 
to 10 a.m. Bazeilles and La Moncelle were the chief points of attack.,. 
Step by step the lighting was forced farther to the N., to Daigny and Gi-, 
vonne, until linally, about 2 p.m., the right wing of the Saxons, who, 
attacked from the E., and the left wing of the Prussians, who attackedi 
from the W., effected a junction at Illy, and the ring of steel was closed 
round the French. Early in the afternoon some of the French troopj 
beo-an to retire in disorder upon the town, and not all the brilliant gal 
lantry of the cavalry, who dashed themselves against the solid Germai 
lines in one desperate charge after another, could turn the tide of battle, 
When a German battery opened fire upon the town from the heights ol 
Fr^nois (p. 95) there was nothing for it but surrender. Napoleon III,, 
who was at Sedan, though not in command, delivered his sword to th« 
King of Prussia; and 83,000 men (including 1 marshal, 39 generals, and 
3230 other officers), with 6000 horses, 419 cannons, and an enorr-ious quantitj 
of stores fell into the hands of the victors. The Germans are said to have 
lost 9000 men and the French 17,000. The victory was mainly due to the 
superior strategy of the German commanders. The French were completely 
out-manoeuvred by the Germans, who had managed to concentrate at 
Sedan a tried force of 240,000 men, and to coop up there the French army* 
of 127,0(X) men, who had no time to recover from the disorganization of 
their previous retreat. The German attack was aided by the double 
change of command in the French camp. MacMahon was wounded early 
in the day, and was succeeded by Ducrot, who was in turn replaced by 
De Wimpffen. • 

Near the beginning of the village of Bazeilles, to the left of the 
road, is the small tavern A laDerniere Cartouche. The name recalls 
the fact that this was the last French position in the village, 
desperately defended by the marines under Martin des Pailleres 
against Von der Tann's Bavarians. The inn, which was the only 
house in the whole village not burned down, now contains a small 
Museum of relics of the battle (fee), and one of the rooms on thei 
first floor is still preserved in the same state as is depicted in A.i' 
de Neuville's painting of 'The Last Cartridge', the scene of which 
is laid in the house which has borrowed its name. 

The street to the right of the road leads into the village, passing 
near the cemetery, rendered conspicuous by its Ossuaire^ containing 
the bones of 2035 French and German soldiers removed from their 
temporary graves on the battlefield. Visitors obtain admission on 
applying at the nearest tavern , the keeper of which is the sexton. 



to Metz, ST. MIHIEL. 14. Route. 97 

The small monument in front of the Ossuaire commemorates 500 
Bavarians who fell in the battle. — The French soldiers and vil- 
lagers who were killed in the defence of the place are commemorated 
by a truncated Pyramid in the village. — Farther down, near the 
Meuse, is the railway-station of Bazeilles (see below). 

From Sedan to Bouillon, 12 M., diligence (2 fr.) thrice dailv. The 

h^nlf n" f Va7n ^. ^fa. ^^-^^f ^"""^ ^^ ^*"''^"^«' «"<! C'-osses part of the 
battleheld of 1870 (p. 96). 3 M. Givonne, on the streamlet of the same 
name was the centre of the French position. At (5 M.) La Chapelle is the 
French custom-house; and beyond it we enter the Forest of Ardennes After 
3 M. more we enter Belgium. - 12 M. Bouillon (H6tel de la Poste good • 
des ^rdennes) a Mtle town dominated by a Castle in which Godfrey de 
Bouillon (1058-1100) was born. Here Napoleon III. spent the nif^ht of 
3rd-4th Sppt. 1870, in the Hotel de la Poste. The towfis prettfly sUuated 
on a pemnsula formed by the Semoy, an afHuent of the Meuse. The valley 
as far as (28-dO M.) Montherme may be explored on foot in one dav (comp 
p. /.)J. bteam-tramway from Bouillon to Paliseul (10 M. • 1 f r 15 80 c^ 
Road from Montherme to the most attractive parts of the valley see p 79 
1,/ ^fp»^^ Sedan to L^rouville , 91 M. (to Nancy, 127 M.), railwav in 
43A-71/4 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 15, 13 fr. 65, 9 fr. 95 c). - At 21/2 mT Po J- 
Maufjis ihe line diverges to the left from that to Metz and begins to 
ascend the attractive valley of the Meuse. 31/2 M. Eemilly. Branch-line to 
Raucourt and thence to Vendresse (p. 94). - 9 M. MoLon, the aiclent 

^HrZT^' ^^\'^tfn *^" ^""«^'^' ^ "^"« *"^" ^^^'^^ enjoyed some im- 
portance down to 1650 contains a church of the 13-15th cent, and the remains 
of an abbey founded in the 10th century. - 151/2 M. Ldtanne-Beanmo>H At 
Beaumont, li/^ M to the S.W., 3000 men under General de Faillv guarded 
he passage of the Meuse, Imt vere defeated and captured bv the Saxon 
troops on Aug. 30th, 1870. - 24 M. Stenai;, a small town in the Pavs mSS 

♦L if °®' ^f^ X* ^°® *'™^ strongly fortified. At (32 M.) Dun-Doulcon 
the valley contracts. 

left ^Jnffh^^f 1" ni^'f ^'^\ S"'"."'^^ l«^^«s the railway to Metz on the 

an ?r <fi ^^-^^^'^'".^ ^"^^ Rheims on the right, and runs to the S.W. 

ORfii ?n?.\ Mijiiel r^<5<c; du Cygve; des Bans- Enf ants; Moderne), with 

.bbl inhab on the Meuse, grew up round an ancient Abbey of St. Michaeh 

^rMirhnrA^V^^'^.r'^^.^^ ''^^'^'- ^«*^ '^^ ^^^^y a°d ihe Church of 
f "f^l M Z""*^ from the 17th century. The church contains a fine statue 

wo .1,^1".?''''°';' ^^ v'^^f ^'f^^' ^P- 1^^^' ^" t^« «^«5^); a «hil<l beside 
two skulls perhaps by Jean Richier (in the 1st chapel on the right)- 
and good choir-stalls, organ-case, and modern stained glass. The Church 

LZ'J^^^i^l II .^ x°^^ !'''^°' ?«°tal°s a group of life-sized statues re- 
presenting the *Entombwe7,t, considered the masterpiece of Ligier Richier 

Q?'^''"r'^°* "^"^ ^^"'^^ ^"^y ^e seen in this part of the town. 

3omme7cy (t'lTsf ' '''' *^^ ^'°^ ^^"""^ ^'"' *° ^'^°'^' '' ^'f' ^' ^^'^^ 

Beyond Sedan the railway continues to skirt the Meuse for some 

hstance. 166 V2 M. Pont-Maugis (see above). — Crossing the Meuse 

.he line now ascends the valley of the Chiers. 1671/9 M. Bazeilles 

p. ybj. — 1^772 M. Carignan, a town with 2134 inhab., was at 

)ne time fortified. Formerly named Yvois, it changed its name 

vhen Louis XIV. made it a duchy in favour of Eugene Maurice of 

'TI?r^;/-f';,^^ *^® P""^® ^^ Carignan. A branch-line runs hence 

(472 M.) Messempre, with metal- works. — 190Vo M. Chauvency. 

n the distance, to the right, is the citadel of Morftmedy, beneath 

vhich the train passes by means of a tunnel, 1/" M. long 

•f 1J5M. Montm^dy (Hot. de la Croix-d'Or; de la Gate), a fortress 

the second class, with 2441 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the 

Bakdkker's Northern Fiance. 5th Edit. 7 



98 Routt 14. LONGUYON. From Paris 

Chiers. Tlie rocky and isolated hill (Mons Medius) from which the 
name is derived is occupied by the citadel, Montmedy was taken by, 
Louis XIV. in 1667 and by the Germans in 1870, 

The "Church of Avioth, 41/2 M. to the N., dating from the 13-14th cent., 
is one of the most interesting in this district. It has two heautifully 
decorated portals and contains good stained glass of the 15th cent, and 
admirable sculptures. Adjoining is a beautiful little hexai^onal chapel of 
the end of the 14th cent., known as the Recevretse. 

A branch-railway runs from Montme^dy, via Ecouviez (frontier-station, 
with the custom-house), and Lamorteau (with the Belgian custom-house), 
to (12V'2 M.) the little Belgian town of Virion. — A 'courrier' (railway pro- 
jected) plies from Montmedy to (14 M.) Darnvillers., birthplace of Bastien- 
Lepage (1848-84), who is commemorated by a statue (by Rodin). 

i28^/2'M..Velosn€S-Torgny. — Several bridges and two tunnels. — 
2071/2 M. Longuyon (Buffet- Hotel; Hot. de Lorraine; Marquet), 
with 3243 inhab,, pleasantly situated at the confluence of the Chiers 
and the Crusne, is a centre of the hardware trade. 

From Longuyon to Luxembourg, 29V4 M., railway in 2V2-3V2lirs. [From 
Paris to Luxembourg by this route, 234 M., express in 63/4-81/4 hrs. (fares 
40 fr. 70, 27 fr. 65, 18 fr. 10c.).l — We leave the line to Thionville and' 
Metz on the right, and ascend the upper valley of the Chiers, traversing 
a picturesque region, studded with iron mines and foundries. 5V2 M, 
Cons-la- Grandville, with a handsome Renaissance chateau (right); 8 M. liehon. 
9 M. Longwy ( Buffet- Hdtel^ good: lerminus; de la Paix ; de la Croix 
d''Or)^ on the Chiers, a town with 9911 inhab., and a fortress of the second 
class, has belonged to France since 1678. It was taken by the Prussians 
in 1792 and 1815 and by the Germans in 1871. It consists of two distinct 
parts, Longwy-Bas and Longwy-Haut. united by a tramway that goes ou' 
to Mont St. Martin (see below). In the lower town are several important 
iron-works and a porcelain manufactory. The picturesque upper town lies 
nearly IV4 M. • from the station by the road (tramway, see above), though, 
there are short-cuts for pedestrians. It commands a !ine view. — The 
branch-line from Longwy to (11 M.) Villerupt and (23V2 M.) Audun-le-Roman 
(p. 99) is chiefly of industrial importance. 

11 M. Mont-St- Martin (hotel), the last French station (but custom-house 
at Longwy), has a handvsome Romanesque church. Branch-line via (31/2 M.) 
Atlms (frontier-station) to (13 M.) Arlon, see Baedeker's Belgium d- Holland. 
— The Luxembourg custom-house is at (14 M.) Rodange (buffet). Luxembourg 
railway-time is 55min. in advance of French railway-time. — 16 M. PHange; 
branch-line to Ettelhrilck and (351/2 M.) Diekirch (see Baedeker's Belgium A 
Holland). 181 /2 M. Bascharge; 2IV2 M. Dippach; 25 M. Lendelange. 

291/4 M. Luxembourg (Hot. Clesse, Staar, near the station; Brasseur, 
Continental, de Cologne, etc., in the town), the capital of the grand-duchyj 
of Luxembourg. For details and for the railways from Luxembourg toj 
Spa, to Treves, and to Thionville, see Baedekers Belgium and Holland 
and Baedeker"'! Rhine. 

From Longuton to Nancy (and Metz, via Conflans- Jarny or Pagny- 
sur-Moselle) , 691/2 M., railway in 33/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 85, 11 fr, 90, 
8 fr. 75 c). This line forms part of the route traversed by the through 
trains from Calais to Nancy, Strassburg, etc. (R. 10). It runs to the S.EJ; 
through a monotonous district. — 14 M. Baroncourt (junction for Audun- 
le-Roman, see p. 99). — 26 M, Conflans- Jarny (buflFet) is also a station on 
the line from Verdun to Metz (p. 92). — At (311/2 M.) Mars-la-Tour (Hot. 
du Commerce) several sanguinary cavalry-engagements took place during 
the battle of Rezonville, on Aug. 16th, 1870. A large Monument, passed 
before we reach the station, commemorates the French who fell, and is 
surrounded with vaults containing the bones of 10,0(K) soldiers. — From 
(4 M.) Onville a branch-line runs to (6i/'2 M.) TMaucourt, situated to th< 
S.W. in the pretty valley of the Rupt 'le Mad, which the main line alac 



to Metz. TJIIONVILLE. 14. Route. 99 

traverses towards the E. — At (46 M.) Pagny-$ur- Moselle fp. 90) our line 
unites with that from Metz to Frouard and Nancy (see pp. 90, 89, and 109). 
Beyond Longuyon the line to Thionville and Metz threads a 
tunnel and enters the valley of the Crusne, which it continues to 
ascend, crossing the stream several times. Beyond (213 M.) Pierre- 
pont, picturesquely situated, a tunnel (1/2 M.) is traversed. — We 
quit the valley by another tunnel. 

223 M. Audun-le-Roman is the frontier-station, with the French 
custom-house. Branch-lines to Baroncourt (see p. 98), to Conflans- 
Jarny (p. 92), and to Longwy (p. 98). — The German custom- 
house is at (228 M.) Fentsch (Fr. Fontoy), where the time is 
56 min. in advance of French railway-time. Beyond another tunnel 
we begin to descend the valley of the Fentsch. 233 M. Hayingen 
(Fr. Hayange), with important iron-works. 

238 M. Thionville, or Diedenhofen (Hot. Terminus; Mehn; de la 
Poste), a fortified town on the Moselle, with 11,930 inhab., was 
captured in 1643 by the Prince of Conde and in 1870 by the Germans. 

From Thionville to Luxembourg (p. 98), see Baedelcer t Belgium and 
Holland or Baedeker's Rhijie; to Treves (431/2 M.), Saarbrucken, Saargemund., 
etc., see Baedeker'': Rhme. 

The Metz line now ascends the valley of the Moselle. 241^/2 M. 
Veckingen (Fr. Uckange); 242 M. Reichersberg (Fr. Riehemont) ; 
2451/2 M. Hagendingen (Fr. Hagondange), the centre of the iron- 
founding carried on in the valley of the Orne, which is traversed by a 
short goods-line; 248V2M. Maizilres; 254 M. Devant-les- Fonts, near 
Fort Moselle. The line describes a curve to the W. and crosses the 
Moselle. To the right diverges the line to Verdun and Paris, then 
the lines to Frouard and Paris and to Saarbrucken and Strassburg. 

269 m. Metz (Orand-Eotel; Orand- Hotel de Metz; Grand-Hotel 
Royal; Angleterre, etc.^. For details of Metz and the Battlefields of 
1870, see Baedeker s Rhine. 



15. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg). 

nu c^^l^'j^t^^^'l^^ ^^^^^ ^® ^'^s*; P^' ^' 24) in 41/4-101/2 hrs. (fares 39 fr. 65, 
2b fr. 80, 17 fr. 50 c). — From Paris to Strassburg, 312 M., Chemin de 
Ro^^^}^^SS'J'^l^^^^Ji beyond Avricourt (p. 341), in 71/3- U hrs. (fares 
i)b fr. 55, 37 fr. 90, 24 fr, CO c). The German second-class carriages are 
as good as the French first-class carriages. 

Besides the ordinary express-trains an Oriental Express leaves Paris 
every evening at 7.20, reaching Nancy in 5 hrs. and Strassburg in 71/2 hrs. 
ihis train, which is made up of a limited number of sleeping-carriages, 
saloons, and dining-carriages, takes passengers for all intermediate stop- 
ping-places if there is room. Supplement to Chalons-sur-Marne 5 fr. 35 c, 
to ^ancy 11 fr., to Avricourt 12 fr. 80 c, and to Strassburg 15 fr. 10 c, all 
in 'iddition to the ordinary 1st cl. fares. Places may be booked in advance 
at the othceof the Compagnie des Wagons-Hts, Boulevard desICapucines 5, 
in Pans, and at 122 Pall Mall, London. — Dinner 6 fr., wine extra. 
»,-^ r oL}'^^ ^^^ ^^^° opened to Vitry-le-Fran<;ois (v. 106), via Coulow- 
,tlT*'y^V\ ^"°V ^"* though fi/4 M. shorter it is served bv slower trains 
(H^/i-V/t hrs. instead of S-S'/v hrs.). 



K-X) Route If). LAGNY. From Paris 

I. From Paris to CMlons-sur-Marne. 

107'/2 M. Railway in 21/4-5 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 50, 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 55 c). 

The train passes under several streets, intersects the Chemin de 
Fer de Ceintnre, and crosses the Canal de St. Denis and the fortifi- 
cations. — 3^ 2 ^^- l^antin (32,090 inhah.). Beyond the Canal de 
rOurcq we reach (5^2 M.) Noisy-le-Sec. To the left is the large 
station of the Chemin de Fer de Grande Ceinture; to the right di- 
verges the railway to Belfort (H. 45). — 7 M. Bondy. 

A branch-line runs hence to (2V2 M.) Gargan, where it forks, the 
right branch running to (4V2 M.) Livri/, with an ancient abbey, 1he left 
branch via the Forest of Bondy to (5 M.) Aulnay-l'es-Bondy^ on the line to 
Soissons (p. 82). 

8M. Le Raincy-Villemomhle. Le Raincy, to the left, is a modern 
town of 8080 inhab., huilt in the park of the chateau, which belong- 
ed to the Orle'ans family and was pillaged in 1848. 

An electric tramway runs from Le Raincy to (2V'2 M.) Montfermeil in 
V2 hr. (fares 45 c., 35 c.). 

IIV2 M. Chelles-Gournay. At Chelles, to the left, was the villa 
of the Merovingian kings, in which Fredegunda caused Chilperic I. 
to be murdered in 534. Chelles was celebrated for its abbey, 
destroyed after 1790. Farther on is a fort. — 14 M. Vaires-Torcy. 
At Noisiel, i/o M. to the E. of Torcy, is Menier's huge chocolate-factory. 

171/2 M. Lagny {Hotel du Pont-de-Fer, on the Marne; de la 
Renaissance, Place du Marche-au-Ble), the Latiniacum of the Romans, 
is a commercial town of 5560 inhab., situated on the Marne. It was 
burnt by the English in 1358, sacked by Jacques de Lorraine in 1544, 
and taken by Henri IV from the Duke of Parma in 1591. 

The early-Gothic Church of St. Pierre, with -double aisles, is 
worth a visit. It is really the choir of an immense abbey-church, 
no more of which was ever built. In the square near the church is a 
curious old fountain; and not far off are some remains of a famous 
Alley, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Fursy (p. 61). 

A branch-railway runs from lagny to (12 M.) Mortcerf. The trains 
Start from a local station on the left bank of the river, about 1 M. from the 
main station (omnibus). 7^2 M. Villeneuve-le-Comte contains a church of 
the 13th century. At (12 M.) Mortcerf (p. 308) the line meets the branch- 
railway from Gretz to Vitry-le-Francois. 

Diligence from Lagny to (6 M.) Ferrieres (p. 308), 75 c. 

Beyond Lagny the train crosses the Marne and enters a short 
tunnel. The river here makes a detour of 10 M., which vessels 
avoid by means of the Canal de Chalifert (to the right), which is also 
carried through a tunnel. — 23 M. Eshly, on the Grand Marin. 

Branch-line to (6 M.) Cricy-en-Brie (Hot. des Families; Trois Rois), a 
small town with remains of its medispval fovtiii cations. Chapelle-sur-Cricy, 
*/2 M. to the p]., has a remarkable church of the 13th century. 

28 M. Meaux {Buffet; Hotel de la Sirene, Eue St. Nicolas, E. 
from 2V2) pens, from 10 fr. ; Trois Rois, Rue desUrsulines, near the 
cathedral, R. from 2^/2, D- ^^ omn. V^^"^-)-. » ^o^'^' ^'^^ 13,921 inhab., 
is situated on the Maxji'^ffvr&yrsrneB-mi^ &i\ active trade in grain and 
lirie cheeses. . . ;\./] qqj, ^ . 



to Nancy. CHATKAU-THIERRY. 15. Route. 101 

one of the first places in Francl^^^dopt tb?ReforLat^on ""'^^- " ^^ 
We enter the town via the Place Lafayette, adjoined on the left hv 

a library of 20,000 vols, and a small Musee (Sun 2-6) 

'^Yi^-^ Cathedral ofSt.Etienne is a Gothic edifice of the i2-16th cent- 
unes The facade weU worth examination, is unfortunately marred 

statues of him (erected in 1K99^,^ ium^''''':^' ^°^ *^« '^^^^ contains two 
are a handsome portal of tKsthc^ '^'' '^ *^ ambulatory 

statue of Philip ^of ^Jn^llmir^^^^^^^^^^ ^^' *^^ ^^-^^-^ 

rebum tVhe?7H*''' '^^^'^^f *^« ^^.^^^d'^^l i« the Episcopal Palace, 
LT f li tf e.l^th cent., with a garden laid out by Le Notre • to the 
1^ of the choir, the Mactrise (.12th or 13th cent). -- Some curious old 
LT ''^'''k'^ ^^ '^' bed of the river, behiid the mtelde Ville 

crosle^s'the'^an^.l!' I'n'"' *° ^^l ''*^'^^^ ^^ ^^ ^"i*« ^«^^^. and 
crosses the Canal de 1 Ourcq and the Marne. — At fSli/., M 1 Trilvort 

he hne to Rheims via La Ferte-Milon diverges to th Mt fR 12a 
41 M. La Ferte-sous-Jouarre (Hotel de VEpee- de Pari,) n,. 

ul^erVe vaT "^^' ft' ^^'^^•' ^^ ^^^^^ ^^ its iTs'to" 
inJ hi 1 •!, ^^ '"^ "^^'"^ ** 1^^^ i^ fertile and well-cultivated 

ind the hills are covered with woods or vineyards ^^^^i^^tea, 

5. (oS^ijl'wfs't^tr^^^^^^^ ^;r^^^^r;^^^' ^^/^ ^- *« *^« 

afterwards replaced bvaRLpHi,!? ^ ^^^^' founded in the 7th cent., 

'f the latterS remains Snd?hr?.^*- J^J^^ltl^^ 13th cent, to wer^ 
n earlier structure, wTfrkerov^^ian'oh^^^^^ ^^'^ ^^,°^-^ '' * ^^^P* "^ 
f various periods - A hrfn^h r^ columns of marble and sarcophagi 
30 M.) ifcmCSfcp. 102). ^^°^ '""' ^'''°' ^* Fertd-sous-Jouarre to 

The train crosses two bridges, threads a tunnel 1030 vds 
JanLTT ' '^''^ ^''^^'^ ^^^ skirts the left bank - 46 M* 
T.rL%l\ ""^r' ^'^ ^3 No,er.t-,Artaud-aJy is anotht 
rnt nCZ ' ^^'^y-s>^r-Marne. To the left diver/es the lii.fl 

^q ^nl?"^^^^^">^ '' ^^ Ferte-MUon (see p. 81) ^ 

th ^slvTnhab ^'T ''' ^- '^^"^ *^^ ^^^*-^' i^ - aTtr:;u;e own 
: umenti a , '"^ ^"f ^^^^^^^^^^ of mathematical and wind in- 
'rumeuts. A tierce battle was fought here in 1814 

a /'ontaine (^p. 102). ^rther on are a Belfry dating from the 



\02 Route 16. EPERNAY. From Paris 

IBtli century, and the Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville with the handsome, 
new Hotel de Ville and the Theatre. We ascend from the square hy 
a llight of 102 steps to the ruined Castle, which we enter from the 
right This castle, said to have been built by Charles Martel in 720, 
was besieged and taken by the Knglish in 1421, by Charles V. in 
1544 and by other assailants on various other occasions. 

Quitting the ruins by the small gateway in the tower on the 
outer wall, opposite the entrance, we descend in the direction of the 
College. In the adjoining house (Rue de La Fontaine 12) Jean de La 
Fontaine (1621-95), the fabulist, was born 5 it now contains a library 
and a small museum. In the Grande-Rue, lower down, rises the un- 
interesting Church of St. Crepin (15th cent.). 

Fkom CuiTKAO-TiiiEKKT TO RoMiLLr, 541/, M., railway in 2V.-dbr3. 
(fares 9 f r 85 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 35 c). — This line diverges from tlie Chalons 
Railway at f^/. M.) W., (see below), the first station, and a-enda the va^^eys 
of the Surmelin and the Dhuis. Part of the water-supply «? ^^"» ^//.^.^If^ 
from theDhuis by means of an aqueduct, 81 M. long, heginmng at (15 M.) 
Pam-taShuis. - 21 V2 M. Montmirail (Ildtel de la Tour-d Auvergne; du 
Gvand-Conm. a town of 2335 inhab., situated on a ^^^K'^^f^^l^^^l^'^l 
nrettv vallev of the Petit Morin, is noted for a victory gained by Napoleon 

Ev'er Ve^Alfies in 1814. The CMteau, ^l^^^^^ >''''\f'JZ-'hriZ^^t 
>w a larjrp nark was ma'-nificently rebuilt in the 17th cent, by Louvois, 
Se^mSf'terofVlfotVoui, XIV Cardinal de ^f'-^^'-^ZfJX 
atMonfmirail — ^4 M. Esternay is also a station on the line from Pans to 
Vifr'v v""So;iommfers (p. 3ol). - Beyond (51 M.) Lurey-Gonflaas we cros^ 
the Seine and join the line from Paris to Troyes. - 541/2 M. KomxUy^ 

*"" A'bran?h-li'nral3o runs from Chateau-Thierry to (28i/. M.) La Fert^ 
Milan (p 81) via {iVh M.) Oulchy-Breny (p. 81), on the line from Pans to 
Itheims. 

At Chateau -Thierry begin the vineyards of Champagne. - 
64V2 M. Mtzy (see above). At (721/2 M.) Dormant Henri of GuiS( 
defeated the Germans and Huguenots in 1575, but received thi 
wound which gave him the surname of 'Le Balafr^' or 'the scarred 
To Rheims, see p. 89. A little farther on, to the right, is Irousy 
with a handsome church of the 16th cent., and to the left are th( 
ancient priory of Bin^on and the Pl^teau of aafiiion-sur-Marn. 
where a colossal statue of Pope Urban H. (1042-99), who was bori 
in the neighbourhood, was erected in 1887, from a design b] 
Roubaud -.l^m.Port-h-Bimon-Chatillon. Near (84 M.) i)amery 
Boursault rises (to the right) the ^Omteau of Boursault. in the 
Renaissance style, the property of the Duchesse d Uzes. 

88 M Epernay. - Hotels. De l'Eukope, Rue Porte -Lucas 18 
R.from3;B.l, dej. or D. SV^, pens. 9 omn. 1 fr. -, ^« ^^^^^^V^i".™ K 
Moet 23 pens. 71/2 fr.; de Chaloss, Rue des Berceaux 6-, Tkkminus, « 
from 2,'d 2V fr. de la Cloche, de la Gaee, Place Th ers, i, 5 aodj 
IcJUdu Centre, Rue Flodoard-, de Rohai, Rue de Chalons^ de Pans 
Rue Porte-Lucas. — Good Buffet at the station. 

Epernay, the Sparnacum of antiquity, a town with 21,637 inhab. 
prettily situated on the left bank of the Marne, is the centre of th- 
champagne-trade. The handsome houses in the suburb of La tolu 
on the E., close to which the train passes as it quits the town, aflor 






^^Memmie 




s^j-nxL?.-ej '.T.'iA' 



to Nancy. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. 15. Route. 103 

Bome indication of the lucrative nature of the local industry. Either 
here or at Rheims (p. 89) a visit should be paid to one of the vast 
Cellars of the champagne-makers, consisting of long galleries, hewn 
in the chalk rock, containing hundreds of thousands of bottles (the 
number laid down annually is estimated at 5 millions) and admir- 
ably adapted for the numerous delicate operations necessary for the 
production of the wine. 

Champagne is said to have been invented at the beginning of the 18th 
century. Its distinguishing quality of eflfervescence is due to the carbonic 
acid gas generated by fermentation, which, under its own pressure of 
4 or 5 atmospheres, is held in a state of liquefaction until the cork is 
removed. The best wines are made from mixtures (in various proportions) 
of black and white grapes. The must that first issues from the presses 
IS reserved for the 'vins de cuvee', or first quality brands. After the lees 
have had time to settle, sugar is added to increase the alcoholic strength 
ot the liquid, which is then placed in casks to ferment. Two or three 
months later (usually about the end of December) it is racked off (the 
sediment remaining behind), diluted or strengthened as required, and 
finally strained and fined. In spring, after more sugar has been added, 
It IS again drawn off into bottles made of very strong and thick glass, 
weighing 20-dO oz. each., which are then placed head downward in cellars 
kept at a constant temperature of 46-50° Fahr. The sediment thus collect- 
ing in the necks of the bottles is got rid of by a process known as 'de- 
gorgeage , in which the cork is allowed to flv out. The bottles are im- 
mediately filled up with a carefully compounded mixture of old wine 
cognac, and sugar 5 and after being allowed to rest for some weeks or 
mouths the champagne is ready for sale. 

• ^??w ^^^.^NAY TO FfeEE - Champenoise (Romilly), 251/2 M., railway 
in 1 /4-IV2 hr (fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). - This line diverges to the 
right from the Strassburg railway at (41/2 M.) Oiry-MareuiL and traverses 
a wine-giowing district, via (81/2 M.) Avize and (14 M.) Vertus. — 25V2 M. 
Mre-Champenoue is also a station on the line from Paris to Vitry-le- 
Urancois (p. 309), from which there diverges, at Sizanne, 6 M. to the W., 
a branch to Romilly (p. 311). 

Fkom Epeknay TO MoNTMiEAiL, 38V2 M. , narrow- gauge railway in 
dVshrs (fares 5 fr. To, 3 fr. 85 c.). - 16 M. Montmort has a castle of 1580 
and a 13th cent, church. — 38V2 M. MonUniraih see p. 102. 

From Epernay to Rheims via Ay, see p. 84. Another line runs via 

Ambonnay (p. 89), on the local line between Rheims and Chalons-sur-Marne. 

^ 1)2 M. Oiry-Mareuil, see above. About 3 M. to the S. of (99 M.) 

Jalons, near the Chateau d'Ecury at Champigneul-Champagne, is a 

very ancient heronry, occupied by the birds from Feb. to August. 

1071/2 M. Ch&lons-sur-Marne. - Hotels. De la Haute -MiiEE- 

nnhlh.T'o?' ^o?^"" ^\ ^- ^' ^^J- '^^ ^ 3' ""^°- V2fr., Place de la Re- 
puDiique 2b and 2L; de la Cloche et on Palais (PI. c: D,2), Rue St Jacoues 2 

orFK? n^'^'m ?• 21/2-31/., B. 1, dej.3, D.W., omn.\. fr f o' cSSj 
n 91/ V D J ■''*'^*^o?- - Restaurants. Sampoux, Place de la Re'publique, 
Lzr/^ ft'/, f ^ ^U^^ '*f*'*'°' ^^j- «^ ^- 3V2fr., good. - Cafls. Dela 
iTHAtii^'^ru"' ^^^»' ^^ ^'"^ ^^P^blique 32 and 48; des Oiseaux, Rue 
Rul^J M. Qo^^t ^•'^"' ^^"^^ 1^ Marne. -Brasseries. De TantonviUe, 
Rue de Marne 32; Alsadenne, Rue Thiers 13. 

10 n?«^^* ^'^'•;^"y5 between 6 or 7 a.m. and 10 or 8 p.m., 1 fr. ; between 
Tn r>p^-™- T^ "Midnight, 11/4 fr. ; at night 2 fr. ; per hr., 2, 2V4, or 3 fr. - 
10 LEpme, 8 fr. there and back, with stay of 1 hr. — Electric Tramways 
P.iH^ -T *?^ '^^"^T ^^^- ^' 2) to tbe Faubourg St. Jean (PI. E, 3); from 
PoS /i>%*f'* ^"TJ^^.^^' ^' 2) to the Faubourg St. Jacr^ues (PI. D, 1). - 
Pobt & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 2), Rue Lochet S 



^04: Route 1 5. ClIALONS-SUR-MARNE. From Paris 

ClidLons-sur-Marne, with 27,808 iiiliab. , is the cliief town of 
the dopartmoiit of tlie Marne ^ the headquarters of the oth aiujy 
corps, and the seat of a bishop. It is also an important centre oi 
the champagne trade. 

Chalons, tlie Gaialaunum of the Romans, is mentioned as e^rly as the 
3rd century. In 451 the neighbourhood was the scene of the great defeat 
of Attila and his Huns by the Romans and the allied Franks and Visigoths. 
This sanguinary and hard-won victory, reckoned by Sir Edward Creasy 
among the 'Fifteen Decisive iJattles of the World, checked Attila's 'mighty 
attempt to found a new anti-Christian dynasty upon the wreck of the tem- 
poral power of Rome'. In 143U and 1434 the town successfully defended 
itself against attacks by the English 5 but in 1814 it was occupied by the Prus- 
sians, in 1815 by the Russians, and in Aug., 1870, by the Germans. 

From the Station (PI. A, 2} we turn to the left, cross the rail- 
way, the Marne (which flows in an artificial channel excavated iu 
1776), and IJnally the lateral canal, at the entrance of the town 
proper. Thence the Hue de Marne leads straight to the Hotel de Ville. 

The Cathediial(P1.B, 0,2), to the right in this street, is a hand- 
some Gothic edijlce, built in the 13th cent, and recently restored. 
The large portal, in the classic style, was added in 1628. The fine 
interior contains some stained glass of the 13-16th cent., a canopied 
high-altar, with six marble columns, two handsome tombstones, on 
the pillars to the left and right of the choir, and several other works 
of art. The choir is prolonged into the nave, as at Rheims. 

Opposite the cathedral is the Institution St. Etienne^ a theology 
leal seminary. The square in front of it is embellished with a re- 
production of Mercie"s 'Gloria Victis', now in Paris. To the left is 
the HoteL Dieu (PI. B, 2), founded in the 16th cent., and farther- 
on in the same direction is the Ecole des Arts et Metiers (PI. C, 1, 2). 

The Hotel db Ville (PI. C, 2), erected in the 18th cent., pre- 
sents few features of interest. In front is a Monument to President 
Carnot. The building to the right contains the Library, with about 
73,000 vols, (open daily, except Wed., 12 to 5j, and the Musee 
(adm. Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 4 or 5: on other days on application). 

In the court between the library and the 3Iusee a church-portal of the 
1 7th cent, has been re-erected , and a good collection of Hindoo gods 
arranged. — On the groundfloor are antiquities, casts, and modern sculp- 
tures. — On the lirst floor are natural history collections, reproductions 
in carved wood of noted French works of art, and the Collection Picot, con- 
sisting chiefly of furniture, small works of art, and paintings. Among 
the last are specimens of Francken, Primaticcio, Holbein, P. van Bredael, 
Qiotto (fresco), etc. 

The church of Notre-Dame (PI. C, D, 2), a few yards behind the 

Hotel deViile, the most interesting building in Chalons, was erected, 

between 1158 and 1322 and restored in 1852-70. It has two towers, 

surmounted by modern spires, on the farade, and two others to the E. 

of the transepts. The stained-glass windows (16th cent.) are line, 

especially the first two on the left side. The aisles are provided 

with capacious galleries, and the three chapels in the apse are each 

preceded by two columns, from which the vaulting springs. There 

are several fine moimments. 



to i\ancy. CUALONS-SUU-MAKNE. 16. Route. 105 

On the E. outskirts of the town is the church of f>t. Loup (PL E, 2), 
dating from 1420, with a handsome and recently restored interior. It 
contains a statue of St. Christopher, referred to the 15th cent., and a few 
ancient paintings, including a small triptych (Adoration of the Magi; visitors 
may open it), by a Flemish master of the 16th cent., in the 2nd chapel 
on the right. — The church of St. John (PI. E, 3), at the S.E. extremity 
of the town, dates from the ll-15th cent, and unites a Gothic choir with 
.Romanesque nave and aisles. — Notre Dame de VEpine^ see below. 

To the S. of the Place de I'Hotel-de-Vme is the church of 
St. ALpin (PI. G, 2; 12-13th and 15-16th cent.), which contains 
numerous ancient paintings (Ecce Homo, on a gold ground, on the 
1st pillar of the choir) and some fine stained glass of the 16th century. 

The Place de la Republique (PL C, 2), a little beyond St. Alpin, 
forms the centre of the town. To the right, at its other end, is the 
Jard (PI. B, C, 3 5 band on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons) , a public 
park lying in front of the little Chdteau du Marche (17-18th cent.), 
now occupied by a savings-bank. The Rue Lochet, built above a 
canal passing under the chateau, leads hence back to the town, 
passing on its way a handsome Synagogue and a Protestant Church. 
The Jard is bounded on the right by a canal, between which and the 
Marne lies the Jardin Anglais (P1.B,3). — On the left is the Cours 
d^Ormesson (PI. C, 3), with an Agricultural Laboratory and the 
Jardin des Plantes. At the end of the Cours is the Prefecture (PI. D, 3), 
erected in the 18th century. Facing it are the modern Archives. At 
the end of the Rue Carnot rises the Porte Ste. Croix (PI. D , 3), 
a triumphal arch, 60 ft. high, erected in 1770 to welcome Marie 
Antoinette, and left unfinished. 

The Mus^e Garinet (PI. D, 2), Rue Pasteur 13, containing paintings^ 
tapestries, etc., is open free on Tues. 2-5 (1-3 in winter). 

Not far from the station, from which its two towers are visible, is 
the former Manor of Jacquesson, now used as a distillery, brewery, and 
malt-house. Connected with it are 7 M. of cellarage, hewn in the chalk, 
which are generally shown on application. 

About 5 M. to the E., on the road to Ste. Menehould, is the village 
of L'Epine , famous for its beautiful and much-frequented ^Pilgrimage 
Churchy built in 1420-1529 (recently restored) to shelter a miraculous statue 
of the Virgin, found in a thorn-bush by some shepherds. The portal is 
especially elaborate. The miraculous image (restored) , the organ of the 
16th cent., the choir-screen, the treasury, and the representation of the 
Holy Sepulchre should be noticed. 

From Chalons-sur-Marne to Troyes, see p. 316 (local station near the 
main-line station); to Chaumont, see R. 46; to Amiens (Rheims), see R. 9; to 
Rheims via Ambonnay (Epernay), see p. 89; to Metz via Verdun, see pp. 90-93. 

II. From Ch&lons-sur-Marne to Nancy. 

112 M. Railway in 23/4-5V4 hrs. (fares 20 fr. 35, 13 fr. 80, 8 fr. 90 c). 

The line skirts the chalk hills on the right bank of the Marne, 
traversing the wide plain known as the Champagne Pouilleuse. 
At (IO81/2M. from Paris) Coolus the line toTroyes (p. 316) diverges 
to the right. II6V2 M. Vitry-la-Ville has a chateau of the 18th cent., 
to the right; 123'/2 M. Loisy-sur-Marne^ with a handsome church 
of the 13th cent., to the left. We next cross the Marne and reach — 



10() lioutr /5. VITin-LK-l<']{AN(,:01S. From Paris 

127 M. Vitry-le-Francois [Hotel den Voyayeurv, Rue de Vaux 34 
U. from 3, D. 3^/4, pens, from 8 fr., good; de la Cloche, R. fron 
21/2, D- 3V2 fr.) , a town witli 8487 inhab., formerly fortified] 
founded on a regular plan in 1545 by Francis I. in place of Vitry- 
le-Brule, 2Vl> M. to the N.E., wliicli was destroyed by Charles V 
in 1544. At the end of the Avenue Carnot, leadin^^- straight on 
from the station, is a Monument commemorating the Review atVitT% 
in 1891. Behind is the Hotel de Ville, containing a small Musee 
which includes natural history and antiquarian collections, a picture 
gallery, and Oriental curiosities. From tlie Place d'Armes, in the 
centre of the town, radiate the four chief streets. On the left side 
of the Place is the church of Notre Dame, a large and handsome 
edifice of the 17th cent., containing two noteworthy monuments ol 
the end of the 18th century. In a small square to the right is a 
bronze statue, by Marochetti, ofRoyer- Collard (1763-1845), a native 
philosopher and politician. 

From Vitky-le-Franvois to Jessains (Troyes, Chauinont), 33V'^ M 
railway in IV2-IV4 tr. (fares 5 fr. 90 c, 4 fr., 2 fr. 60 c). — At (21 M.) Valen 
tigny a brancli diverges to St. Dizier (p. 325). — 25 M. Brienne-le-Chatea\ 
(Croix Blanche; Bayard) is famous as tlie seat of a military scLlodI (sup. 
pressed in 1790), of which Napoleon I, was a pupil (1779-84). A bronz) 
statue of Napoleon at the age of sixteen, in front of the Hotel de Ville' 
commemorates the fact. It was also the scene of a sanguinary struggle ii 
1814, between Napoleon and Blucher, in which the latter was forced t( 
retire. Brienne has given name to a family of distinction, one of whos< 
members, Jean, was King of Jerusalem in 1209 and Emperor of Co j 
stantinopie in 1231-37. Above the town rises the large Chateau of the 
Prince de BauflVemont-Couftenay, dating from the 18th century. The pari 
is open to the public, and the collection of paintings (numerous portraits' 
in the interioi' may also be visited. The Church dates from the 16th century 
— Railway to Troyes via Piney, see p. 316. 

The railway to Jessains next ascends the valley of the Aube, whicl 
it crosses beyond (28V2 M.) Dienville. We now join the line from Troyei 
to Chaumont, and reach (33V2 M.) Jessains (p. 318). 

From Vitry-le-Francois to Paris via Coulommiers, see pp. o09, 308. 

Beyond Vi^ry the railway crosses the Marne for the last time 
and skirts the Rhine and Marne Canal, which begins at Yitry an( 
ends at the 111, near Strassburg, a distance of 195 M. — The scener; 
now becomes monotonous. 135 1/2 M. Blesme-Haussignemont (smal 
Buffet) is the junction for Chaumont (Dijon ; Bale) ; see R. 4(). 143 M 
Sermaize-les-Bains (Hot. de la Cloche; de la Source, at the Etab: 
lissement), on the Saulx, with a small Etablissement de Bains, 1/2 M 
from the station, supplied by a mineral spring resembling that 
Contrexeville (p. 335). 

AVe next cross the Saulx, the Rhine and Marne Canal, and thi 
Ornain, and reach (148 M.) Revigny. 

Branch-railway to (17V2 M.) St. Dizier (p. 325) ; to Hirson, see p. 67 
Local railways run also to the S.E., through the valley of the Saulx, t' 
(16'/2 M.) Haironville, and to the N.E., to (2IV2 M.) Triaucourt, vifi (1^ M. 
Linle-en-Barrois, whence a branch diverges to Remhercourt-aux-Pots (p. 108] 

1571/2 M. Bar-le-Duc. — Hotels. De Metz et du Commekck (PI. b 
B, 2), Boul. de la Rochelle 17; de la Gaue (PI. a; C, 2), with cafe, opposi,t 
the station ; du Cygne (PI. c; B, 2), Boul. de la Rochelle 14, R from 3, D. 2] 







d 



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to Nancy. BAR-LE-DUC. 15, Route. 107 

Cabs. Per drive 1 fr., per hour 2 f r (i e for i 9 r,e,<. ^ v j^.. 
P^"p25- extra in the Ville Basse, 50 c ti the Vil e hS)' "^ ^^^^*- 
Post & Telegraph Office (PI. 16; B, 2) Rue Voltaire 2. " 

Sar-^6-7>wc, the ancient capital of the Dukes ofBar and the chief 
town of tlie department of the Meuse, with 17,307 inhab is situated 
on the Ornam and the heights rising on i'ts left bank It was 

Oudinof rrT? 1^^^^^^ second Duke of Guise (1519-63), Marshal 
Uudinot (1^)7-1847), and Marshal Exelmans (1775-18521 Bar- 
le-Duc IS noted for its preserves, and it also produces good ^ne 

rPl ^',V''^'^V 0. .'^'^T^^"'*^*'^" ^' * ^^'^ M<^nument for 1870-71 
\^ri. II- o, 1, Z). Ihe busiest part of the town is the 'Ville Bas^e' 
which IS intersected from E. to W. by the Boulevard de la Rochelle tte 

Nn?r.^ ' fi^, 4 an imposing edifice in the Romanesque style 

theS cfnT'in^ ' ^^' '' ''" "^^ ^"' ^^ *^« *«^^^' dates fr'om 
the 15th cent and possesses a remarkable Gothic choir. Crossing 
the Ornam by the bridge, we reach the Rue Entre-deux-Ponts which 
begins at the Monument of the Michaux {VI. U • B 5) a familv whJ 
introduced important improvements in the man'ufac; 're o M 'Tes 
and passes the Theatre (PI. 20; B, 2). Behind the latter i tjcTfi 
desOiseaux, one of the sights of the town, which boasts a fine col 

Cio mTl^'tTtT^ '"^T"'' ~ ^^^^^- on1s\he P at 
nfif 1 rJ?'.^' ^^^^^l^^s^ed with a bronze statue, by J Debav 
of Marshal Oudmot, Duke of Reggio (see above). - Farth;r un to 

he left, IS the church of St. Antoine (PI. 6; B, 2), of the 14th ce^t 
a canalized arm of the Ornain flows beneath the church! ' 

mov r 1^ rf *® ' ^' '^PP®' *^^"' commanded by a Clock Tower 
may be reached hence by following the Rue de la Couronne to the 

Srt %?trTeft^''''^- ^^v^^"^^ ^^^^"^-^ theirGm '! 

(PI 23 B 3 1571 ^hfl'r' ?' ^''"f ^^"^^^ GUles-de-Treves 
af ih. ' '• / .^^ ^^"®' '*'^^* ^»ds at the esplanade in front 
01 the remains of the Chateau fPl 9 • -r Q^ -:i . ^ 
17th cftTitnrv Ti,n T? ^"«t^i< L*'!. Z; B, 3), destroyed in the 
lan century. The Rue des Ducs-de-Bar, the chief street nf ihl 

The Church If St. F™L of " KeV/fPlTrSI?' .T"""- 
clpal building in Bar-Ie-D„c. It dat^s fro; h 'lith'cei wi,h'"L 

ar,Cis:2L' sC- '"'"^^^ "^ ^ ''^'" ""^^ '^ '-"^oot;;;: 

and 'I'lrability of S.lP .L f V '"'^'^ ^"'^ ^" to give it the appearance 
""■ -1, Place St. Pierre, a handsome old house of the early 



108 lluule 15. TOUL. From Paris 

Renaissance period, contains a small Musee (PI. 15; C, PO, open to 
the public on Sun., 1-4, and on other days on application. 

There are a number of other interesting old buildings in the 
'Ville Haute', especially in the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar. A house in 
which Prince Charles Edward Stuart lived for three years is also 
pointed out. At the upper end of the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar is Le 
Pdquis, a promenade shaded by fine elms. In the Rue Lapique, 
which leads down from this vicinity to the Boulevard de la Rochelle 
(p. 107), is the Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 2), formerly Oudinot's mansion. 
From Bar-le-Duo to CleriMont-en-Akgonne and to VEunuN, 35 and 
42 M (fares 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 20 c, and 5 fr. 95, 13 fr. 80 c). This narrow-gauge 
line has a special station in the Hue St. Mihiel, behind the railway-station. 
At (L'''/2M.) Rembercourt-aux-Pots a branch-line diverges to Ltsle-en-Barroix 
fp lOB) — At (18V'^ M.) Beauzie the line forks, one branch leading to (35 M.) 
Clermont-en-Argonne (p. 91), the other t,o (42 M.) Verdun (p. 91). 

161 M. LongevUle; 1 641/2 M. NauQois- Tronville. Railway to 
Neufchateau andEpinal, see p. 328. To the right is theMarne canal, 
which farther on makes a wide curve and enters the valley of the 
Meuse by means of a tunnel 21/2 M. long, while the railway bends 
to the left. Beyond (171 M.) Ernecourt-Loxeville the train enters 
the cuttings by which the line pierces the heights between the 
valleys of the Seine and Meuse. — 178 M. Lerouville (2999 inhab.). 
Railway to Sedan via Verdun^ see p. 9T. 

183 M. Commercy {Hot. de Paris, R. 2-4, D. 3 fr., good; de la 
Cloche, pens. 7 fr.), a town with 7836 inhab., is situated on an arm of 
the Meuse. The imposing Chateau of the 17th cent., which the train 
passes on quitting the station, was at one time the residence of the ^ 
Dukes of Lorraine, and is now used as barracks. In the town is 
a bronze Statue of Dom Calmet (1672-1757), the learned historian, 
who was born in the neighbourhood. Commercy is noted for its 
'Madeleines', a kind of cake (1 fr. 20 c.-2 fr. per box). 

The train now crosses two arms of the Meuse. 188 M. Sorcy, 
beyond which a tunnel, 612 yds. long, is traversed. 

191 M Pagny-sur-Meuse (Buffet- Hotel). Railway to Domremy 
and Neufchateau, see p. 329. We now enter the valley of the Moselle 
by a tunnel 3/^ M. long, and once more approach the Rhine and 
Marne Canal. — 194 M. Foug. 

199 M. Toul (Hotel de la Comedie; de Metz; Chariot d'Or; Cloche 
d'Or; de France; de la Qare; de VEurope), the Tullum Leucorum 
of the Romans, is one of the most ancient towns in Lorraine. Its 
bishopric was founded by the Irish monk St. Mansuy, who died about 
the year 350. It is a fortress of the first class and was taken by the 
Germans in 1870. Pop. 13,663. The town is situated between the 
canal and the Moselle, about V2 M. from the station. From the Porte 
de France the Ifue Thiers leads to the Place Croix-en-Bourg, with 
a pretty marble Fountain, and is continued by the Rue Gambetta, 
at the end of which we turn to the left. 

The church of St. Gengoult, a fine Gothic edifice of the Id-lOth 



to Nancy. FROUARD. /5. Route. 109 

cent., has an unusually lofty interior ; its large windows are filled 
with line stained glass of the 13th century. The finest part of the 
church is, however, the beautiful Flamboyant Cloisters, to the N. of 
the nave, dating from the 16th century. These are enclosed on both 
sides by six double arcades resting on very light and graceful columns 
and separated from each other by small truncated columns. The clois- 
ters give on the Place du Marche, through which we may reach the 
church of St. Etienne, via the Rue Lafayette (right). Rue Michatel 
(leftj, and Rue Liouville (right). 

*St. Etienne, the former cathedral, is noteworthy for its size 
and its harmonious proportions, and still more for its beautiful W 
front, which is flanked by two light and graceful towers, terminating 
in octagonal lanterns. The choir and transepts (both with fine stained 
glass), date from the 13th, the facade from the 15th, and the nave 
trom the 14th and 15th centuries. The * CLoisters which adjoin this fine 
church on the S. were built in the 13-14th cent, and are larger and 
of an even more perfect style than those of St. Gengoult. They form 
a rectangle, 75 yds. long and 55 yds. broad, and consist of 22 sections 
with four arches, each wdth four small clustered columns and two 
small isolated columns, besides the archway to the court. — The 
Chapel entered from the cloisters contains a large altar-piece, with 
figures in fuU relief, representing the Adoration of the Shepherds. 
Ihe large and imposing Hotel de Ville , formerly the bishop's 
palace, built in 1740, contains the public library and a small museum 
Behind it is a public garden with a marble figure, France recovered, 
by Maindron (1874). 

P^^A/^^^"*^^'?'/"® 0^0^.?°^^^ *¥ ""^"^y "f t^e Moselle from Toul to (15 M.) 
^^tLf^jT.T ^P- ^^/^' y;^ ^^''^^^'^ Pierre-la-Treiche, near which are some 
interesting caverns (partly unexplored). 

From Toul to Neufchdteau (Dijon), see p. 3335 to Troyes, see p. 316. 

As the train leaves Toul we enjoy a fine view, to the right of 
both Its clxurches and especiaUy of the facade of St. Etienne We 
cross the canal and then the Moselle — 204 M. Fontenoy-sur- Mo- 
selle. The river and canal run parallel to the railway. We again 
cross the river and reach (210 M.) Liverdun, finely situated to the 
lelt, with remains of fortifications. The church, containing inter- 
esting sculptures , dates from the 13th cent. ; the governor's house 
from the 16r,h. — The tunnel (to the left), 550 yds. long, by which 
the canal is carried beneath the town, and the bridge (to the right) 
by which It crosses the Moselle, near the railway-bridge, are strik- 
ing examples of engineering skill. The scenery at this point is, per- 
haps, the most beautiful on the entire journey. 

At (214 M.) Frouard (Buffet- Hotel), a village of 4180 inhab., the 
railway to Metz (R. 14a) diverges to the left, while the line to Nancy 

VrV^^^^ ""^ *^® ^""^^^^^ ^^^ ^""^^'^ *^e valley of the Meurthe. 
— Zlb M. Champigneulles, with iron-works. RaUway to Chateau- 
salins, Vic, etc., see p. 116. — In the distance, to the left, we 
catch a glimpse of Nancy. — 219 M. Nancy (rail, restaurant), p. 110. 



no 



16. Nancy. 



Hotels. Grand-Hotel (PI. d; C, 3, 4), Place Stanislas 2, R. from 4j 
li. l'/^, di'j. 4, D. 4V2-5, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Gk.-IIut. dk L'UMivBEa 
ET uu CoMMKKCK (Pi. ^ ; li, 3, 4), Ituc dcs Carmcs 2, 11. from 3, d^j. 'd] 
D. 372, timn. 1/2 fr. ; Gr -Hot. de l'Europe (PI. b; 13, 4), Rue dcs Cannes 5. 
R. from 3, B. IV2, dej. 3V2, D. 4, omn. V2 f r. ; Hot. d'A.ngletekre (PI. ei 
B, 4), Rue Stanislas (31, R. from 3, B. 11/4, dej. 3, 1>. 372 fr.5 ue Pah« 
(PI. li; C, 4), Rue St. Dizier 10; AjiftKiCAiN (PI. c; H, 4J, Place St. Jean 3 
near the station, R. from 3, ddj. 3 fr. — Hotels Meubles. Hot. Terminus 
DES DEUx-HfiMispiifiRES (PI. f; .\, 4), R. 4-16, P.. IV4 fr., both in the Plac< 
Thiers, near the station; de la Poste (PI. a; (J, 4), Place de la Cathcdrale 
Central-Hutel, Rue du Faubourg-Stauislas 6. near the station, 11. 4-l2 fr 

Restaurants. Stanislas, Place -itanislas 9 ■■, at the Orand-Hdtel (see above) 
Petit- Vatel, Rue des Dominicains .-53, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.; liocher de Cancale 
Rue des Carmes 11, d^j. 2^/4, D. 3 fr. ; at the H6t. Amiricain (see above) 
and at the Brasseries meniioned below. — "Railway Restaurant. 

Cafes. Gaf6 Glacier^ Place Stanislas, overlooking tlie Pepiniere; de la 
ComMie-Rotonde, to the right of the theatre, with gardens; du Grand-Hdtel 
Orand-Cafi, Stanislas, du Commerce, Place Stanislas; des Deux-H&mispheres 
Place Thiers. — Brasseries. Brasserie Viennolse (restaurant), Rue de^ 
Michottes 6 (PI. B, 3), a la carte; Brasserie Lorraine (restaurant), Rat 
St. Jean 0, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; Brasserie Thiers, at the station, dej. 3, U. 3'/2 fr. 
Brasserie de V Est, at Maxdville (closed in winter; tramway, see beljw). 

Cabs. With one horse IV4, luggage-cab IV2, with two horses 1^/4 fr. pei 
drive; per hr. 3/4 fr. more. From midnight to 6 a.m. 1/2 fr- more per drivi 
or per hr. 

Electric Tramways (10-20 c. ; correspondance 5-10 c. extra). 1. Fron 
Maxiville (s'je Pi. B, 1) to Bonsecours and to Jarville (see PI. C, D, 7). 2. From 
the St'itton (PI. A, 4) to Si. Max and to Essey-Us-J^uncy (see PI. E, 4J 
3. From the Bon Coin (see Pi. A, 4) to the Place Lohau (PL. U, 6). 4. Fron 
Priville (see PI. A, 3) to the Pipinihi^e and the Swing Bridge (PI. D, Ij 

5. From i\i.Q, ■ Place Carnot (PI. B, 3) to the Rue de Tout (see PI. A, 7) 

6. From the Rue St. Georges (PI. C, 4) to MaUiville (see PI. E, iJ. 7. Fron 
the Bon Coin (see- PI. A, 4) to St. Epvre (PI. C, 3). — Cable Railway froc 
the Cimetieve de Priville (see PI. A, 3) to St. Antoine (p. 115) ; fare 20 e. 

Theatres. TMdtre Municipal (PI. C, 3), Place Stanislas ; Casino (PI. C, 4 
Rue St. Georges; Eden Thidtre (PI. B, 4), Place St. Jean. — Fetes, concert; 
and exhibitions at the Salle Foirel (PI. B, 4), Rue Poirel, near the statioi 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. C, 4), Rue Pierre-Fourier. 

Baths. Bains du Casino, Passage du Casino (PI. C, 4), Rue St. Dizier 21 
and Rue de.s Dominicains 40; Bains Marceau (Hammam Nanccen), Passag 
Marceau, Rue du Faubourg-St-Jean 57, and Rue de la Commanderie (PI. A, 4] 

Banks. Banque de France (PI. B, 4), Rue Chanzy 2; Cridit Lyonnait 
Rue St. Georges 7bis; Sociiti Oinirale, Rue St. Di/ier 42; Comptoir d" Es 
compte. Rue St. Jean 56. 

■University (p. 115). Special courses for foreigners are given during 
the vacation (1st July-31st Oct.) and throughout the session. Apply to M 
le Directeur des Cours, at the university. 

French Protestant Service in the Temple St. Jean, Place St. Jean, a 
10a.m. — French Methodist Chapel, Rue Ste. Anne 6; services at 10.30 a.m 

Stndicax d'Initiative des Vosges et de Nancy, R le Ma'.agran 3, Plac 
Thiers. 

Among the specialties of Nancy are Embroidery, Macaroons, and Ari 
istic Pottery and Glass. 

Chief Sights: Place Stanislas (p. HI), Picture Gallery (p. Ill), Cat/ 
edral (p. 113), St. Epvre (p, 114), Palais Ducal (Musie Lorrain, p. 114), Frar 
ciscan Church and Cours Leopold (p. 115). 

Nancy, the capital of the department of Meurthe-et- Moselle, an 
the seat of a bishop, formerly the capital of Lorraine and the se; 







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Hotel deVille. NANCY. 16. Route. HI 

of the dukes, of whom Stanislaus Leszczynski (d. 1766), ex-king of 
Poland , was the last , is situated on the Meurthe, and contains 
110,570 inhabitants. It was greatly embellished by Dukes Leopold 
(d. 1720) and Stanislaus, and is one of the best-built towns in France. 
The University of Nancy takes a high rank and its school of forestry 
(p. 113} is the only establishment of the kind in France. 

After taking Nancy in 1475 and losing it again in the following year, 
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was defeated and slain beneath its 
walls by the Duke of Lorraine and the Swiss in 1477. Nancy was one of 
the lirst places in which the Revolutionary spirit was shown by the troops 
in 1790, and Carlyle gives a vivid account in his '■French Revolution^ of the 
uprising of 'Chateau-Vieux' and its suppression by Bouille. In 1870 the 
town was occupied by the Germans without resistance. — Amjng the 
famous natives of Nancy are Callot (1692-1635), Sylvestre (d. 1691), and 
St. Urbain (d. 1758), the engravers^ H4ri (17u5-63), the architect 5 Marshal 
Drouot (1774-1847); Isabey (1767-1855), the painter; Qrandville (or Oirard; 
1803-47), the caricaturist (p. 113); and Edm. de Goncourt (1822-96), the writer. 

The Place Thiers (PI. A, B, 4j, in front of the station, is adorned 
with a statue of President Thiers (l797-1877), by Guilbert, erected 
in 1879. The town is entered by the Porte Stanislas, of 1752, one 
of the seven handsome gates of Nancy. Farther on, to the left, are the 
Place Carnot and Cours Le'opold (p. 115). To the right, in a small 
square in front of the Lycee, is a Statue of Dombasle, the agriculturist 
(1777-1843), by David d'Angers. The Public Library, to the left of 
the square, contains 126,140 vols, and 1695 MSS. (open daily, ex- 
cept Sun. and holidays, 9-12 in summer, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. in 
winter). The Rue Stanislas leads hence to the square of that name, 
crossing the Rue St. Dizier, the busiest in the town. 

The *Place Stanislas (PI. C, 3, 4), laid out in 1752-55, the 
finest point in the town, with a bronze Statue of Stanislaus Lesz- 
czynski by Jacquot, erected in 1831, is surrounded with handsome 
edifices by He'r^, and adorned with tasteful iron railings of the 
18th cent., and two monumental fountains. To the E. rises the 
Episcopal Palace (empty since 1906), to the W. the Theatre, to the 
N. (at a little distance) the Arc de Triomphe (p. 113), and to the S. 
the Hotel de Ville. 

The Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 4), built in the 17th cent., contains 
a very handsome hall, with frescoes by Girardet and paintings by 
modern artists, and a line staircase with wrought-iron banisters by 
Lamour. Several rooms are occupied by a Musee, containing ancient 
and modern paintings, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs., from 
12 to 4 or 6, on other days on application (50 c). 

First Floor. — Paintings. Room I. To the right, 127. Vanni, Old man 
holdmg a terrestrial globe; *5a. Duccio, Madonna; 111. Sassoferrato, Madonna; 
129. Earli/ Copy of F. Veronese, Marriage at Cana. — 124. Miguel de Tobar, 
Monk praying; 136. School of Bologna, Annunciation; 30. Ann. Caracci, 
Christ at the Sepulclire; 90. F. da Gortona, Cumaean Sibyl announcing to 
Augustus the birth of Christ; 7. Baroccio, Annunciation; 87. Ferugino, 
Madonna, Christ, St. John, and angels. — 69. Ouido Reni, Cleopatra; '273. 
Rubens, Transfiguration (painted in Italy ca. 1604, under the intluence of 
Caravaggio) ; 272. Roitenhammer (V), Good Samaritan ; 125. A. Vaccaro, Christ 
app«aring to the Virgin. — 234. Van Hemessen, Expulsion of tbe mouev- 



112 Route 16. NANCY. Musee. 

changers j 433. Le Barhier, Death of D(^3illes (p. 115); 119. Tintoretto^ Christ 
at the Sepulchre; 20S. De Grayer^ Plague at Milan; iOi. Ribera, J^aptism 
of Christ; no number, A. Morot^ Lion-hunt; 96. Pordenone, Parting of 
St. Peter and St. Paul; 263. Pourbua the Younger^ Annunciation. — 2. A. del 
Sarto^ Tobias and the anj^el; 108. A. Sacchi, Alexander VII. at the 'Corpus 
Christi'' procession; 205. /. B. de Champaigne, St. Paul. — in the middle, 
Equestrian statue of Duke Charles III., in bronze, by Chaligny. 

Room II, to the left of the entrance. — To the right, 12. Bassano^ 
Christ and Caiaphas; 110. Sassoferrato, Madonna; 52. Feii, Melancholy 
(replica of the painting in the Louvre); 74. L. da Vinci i'l)., Salvator 
Mundi; 24. Caravaggio , Descent from the Cross; 76, 77. Locatelli^ Land- 
scapes; 1. Alherti^ Portrait; 36. Cerquozzi^ Fruit; 51. Feii, Archangel; 10. 
Bassano, Deluge; 26. Cigoli, Entombment; 72, 73. Lanfranco , Heads of 
Apostles. — 23V). P. van Laer^ surnamed ISarnboccio ^ Strolling musicians; 
418. Jouvenet, Raising of Lazarus; 190. Bakhuysen ^ Sea-piece; 520, 521. Jos. 
Vernet, Roman ruins. — 62. Guardi, Piazza di San Marco; 33. Cerquozzi^ 
Fruit; 11. Bassano^ Christ and the Holy Women; 120. Tintoretto, Pentecost; 

362. Le Guaspre, Landscape; 109. Sacchi, Trinity; no number, Fordenone, 
Portrait; 61. Oranacci, Holy Family. — 8i. Maltese('/), Tapestry and jewellery. 

Room III, adjoining, whence a staircase descends to the sculptures 
(p. 113). To the right: 195. BreenhergU, Landscape; 256. A. van Ostade^ 
Still-life; 214. Van l)yc/c (1), Madonna and Child (replica of the painting at 
Dresden). — 289. Teniers the Younger, Fortune-teller; 215. Van Dyck^ Van 
Opstal the painter; 22i. Fr. Francken and /. de Momper, Christ in the desert; 
262. Pourbus the Fldcr, Portrait; 292. Van Thulden, Christ after the Scourg- 
ing; 275. Rubens, Jonah (ca. 1618); 201. P. Bril, Landscape; 243. Lievens, 
Crucilixion; 274. Rubens, Chi-ist walking upon the water (ca. 1618); 255. 
G. van Os, Portrait; 222. Van Ever ding en , Landscape; 248. Matsys, Money- 
changers; 192. Brouwer, Disappointed toper; 237. Jordaens (more probably 
Rubensl), Two female heads (studies); 258. y. Peeters, Sea-piece; 244. /ear* 
Looten, Oaks; 281. J. van Ruysdael, Oaks; 200. Bril, Ruined tower; 226. 
Van Goyen, Landscape; 290. Teniers the Tbwrap'er, Village-scene ; 196. Brueghel 
the Younger, Village festival; 282. J. van Ruysdael, Hut; 202. F. Bol{1), Dutch 
cook; 228. Van der Hagen, Sunset; 220. Elsheimer, Good Samaritan; 230. 
Heemskerck, Pancakes; 261. Van Pool, Winter. — 209. Dekker, Bridge; 260. 
C. van Poelenburgh, Diana bathing ; 293. Van Thulden, Perseus and Andromeda ; 
24G. N. Maas, Portrait; 187. DArthois, Fair; 22J. C. de Heem, Still-life; 
221. Van Es, Still-life; 264. J. van RavesteinC'.), Portrait; 188. D'Arihois, 
Edge of a wood; 231. Heemskerck the Younger, Seller of pancakes. — 251. 
J. de Momper, Caravan; i^l. -Velvef Brueghel {^:), Landscape; 242. Sa/tleven, 
Swineherds ; 225. Frayiqois, Abbe Gre'goire ; 306. Flmiish School, Village 
festival; 227. Guerviller, Calvary; German School, 288. Christ at the Sepulchre, 
300. Circle of children, 287. Beheading of John the Baptist, 298. Rape of 
Helen; 2(j6. Cranach the Younger {^i), Birth of the Virgin; 299. German 
School, St. Jerome; 102. Ribera{'i), Sorceress; lOJ. S.Romero, Portrait. — 
216. Van Dyck('0, Count John of Nassau and his family. 

Room IV. French School of the end of the 18th and beginning of the 
19th centuries. To the left and right, 458, 4o9. Meunier, Palace-interiors; 
/. Girardet, 390. The sleeper, 391. Rising, 392. Nymphs sleeping, 393. Nymphs 
surprised. From right to left: 410. Isabey, Napoleon I.; 375. Fragonardil), 
Child astonished ; diO. Brascassat, Ruined house; '6bb. E. Delacroix, Death 
of Charles the Bold (p. Hi); 385. Fr. Girard, Portrait; 403. Gro5, Marshal 
Duroc; no number, Monchablon, Landscape. — No number, Frangais, 
Source; AQl. Monvoisin, Gilbert, the poet, in hospital; A5A. Constance Alayer, 
Portrait. — 411. Isabey, Dieppe; 4B9. Rouillard, Marshal Oudinot; 492. 
Prud''hon, Head of Christ; no number, Sellier (of Nancy), Mme. V. Mass^; 

363. Dupuys, P. Jobart (1690); no number, Sellier, The Villa Medici in 
1862; 3ilO. Falconet, Girl with a straw hat; 311. De Beaumont, The captain's 
part; no numbers, Prinet, Game of billiards, H. Royer, In Brittany, Pelitjean, 
Evening at Verdun, 

Room V. Early French School. To the right of the side-door: 462. 
Mignard, Portrait; 350. N. Coypel, Holy Family; 517. C. Vanloo, Silenus; 



CathedraL NANCY. 16. Route. 113 

below, 428. Largilli^reCi), Portrait; 421 Lafasem "Dpinao. two n i, i. 
.St. Martin. - 325. Cla'de Charles (of NancyrieefiTiTf H^^ 
Jeaurat de Bertry, Still-life; 4C3. P. Mignard, Lady as St CatharinJ-' ^12' 
J-oc^^^ Portrait; 368,369. Falconet, Portrait of the^art st and h]^ w^f^'. 473" 
NatUer, The playful menace ; 444. Le Nain, Interior ; '■426. LargillUrT'ilkvJt 
-356. /)e«porto, Game and fruit; 440. Lemoine. Moderation of Sc pio 466 
^cn««i.«r, Flowers and still-life; 559. Fo«e^, Nymph testing the a;row; 
rl^'l^"^'.?.^- i'^'^."^' ^«™-«(?), Landscape ; hit BouS, Aurora and 
Cephalus; 461. P. ^.^«ard Madonna; 427. LargilHere, Portrait: 528 Fot"? 
Cupids revenge; below, Four small portraits attributed to Clouet- S 
DeTroy, Diana resting; 518, 519. /. B. Vanloo, Louis XV ; no mimber 
Lemoxne, Hercules delivering Hesione — 496 RextMif BnffVn^^q vl' 
architect (?) -af-Largiimre. Eli.abeth'charlotte of th/S ktinat? Du'che^^ 
?cce Homo'. 479 ^A«ffT''' ^r^^"" and Armida. - 203. PHdeChaZpltgnl 
ferusflem ' 416' W,£T/"p' 7^?i"^^^:*?«' ^^8. N. Poussin, Jesus entering 
?hartrno ft,t:Tde ^Te, Ic'chTntfj '''■ ^^^ '' ''^-^^'^^' 

ni^hf-^'So^i- l"* *^^"/-^*= ^^?- ^- ^^^■«"^' I'^-yl^'^^eO. K F. Michel, Summer- 
1^0 irf' ; ^"^^^ C'/^ancy), Crucifixion; 503. ;^eWer, Mary Magdalen - 
522. £^.Fgm«^ Marshal Drouot; 505. Sellier, The Levite of Mount Enhraim • 

nilfT' i n *^-^,' .^- ^'(^ff"^^K Edmond de Goncourt. — 358 D^villv 
Death of Serg.Blandan (Algeria; 1842); 359. Biaz de la PenaThegSdt- 
500. ff. Boyer, Nymph; 469. Morot. Incident at the battle of AauaT S^extfc 
(Ajx in Provence; 102 B.C.); 408. ffenner. Nun praying ;?ni S; 
Leander; i^o number, /. Larcher, Daphnis and Chloe - 532 Znblr 
Autumn evening; 380. Frianf, Portrait of himself; 50Q Sellier Vitellius It 
Bedriacum; "O numbers, L. Voirin, Races at JarVille, i/ St;^ Portral 
onuuTmn.' '^''''•^■'""' Village-street in Lorraine;' 397. fefr^ETd 

t«ristS?JiJ/,,Atm;"^ '' ^^"^^^"^^ ^^^^^^ --^'^ ^^ *^« -"-- 

Ground Floor. — Sculptures, including casts from the antinnP anrl 

rioSarnT'"^ ""''^^ ^" xnarble'and bronz'e; bustsTilfurtr^ous'nttiTes 

The Cathedral (IVoirc-JDame; PI. C, 4), behind the Hotel de 
Ville beyond the Prefecture, was built in 1703-42 by J. H. Mansart 
after the model of Sant' Andrea della Valle at Rome. The facade 
consists of a row of Corinthian columns, surmounted by a row of 
the Composite order, and is flanked by towers terminating in domes 
supporting lofty lanterns. In the interior are a cupola painted by 
lacquart, some fine iron-work, and a rich treasury 

The Rue St Georges, in front of the cathedral, ends at the Porte 
l^- Georges (PI. D, 4), of 1606. The Rue Bailly leads to the left 
before this gate to the Place d' Alliance (PI. D, 4), embellished with 
fountain commemorating the alliance concluded in 1756 between 
Louis XV. and the Empress Maria Theresa. The Rue d'AUiance 
eads hence to the left to the Place Stanislas. 

^,•♦1, V^"^ vicinity of the Place d'AUiance are the Ecole ForestUre fPl D 4^ 
Lne latter^ entered from the Rue Ste. Catherine, is open all day. ' 
- Q^^^ *^r ^.® Triomphe, formeriy called the Porte Royale fPl. 
Hn2' 1. 1 \ ' ^1 *^^' ^^''^ Stanislas, is the finest of the seven 
riumphal arches which decorate Nancy. It was erected in 1751 by 
Zl7r '" 'T' ^f ^'^"i«XV., his son-in-law, of whom it bears 
medallion, and consists of a triple gateway in the Corinthian 



114: Route 16. NANCY. Palais Ducal. 

style, embellished with statues and bas-reliefs. On the monumental 
fa'(.-ades at each end are (left^ a bronze Statue of Callot (see p. Ill), 
with busts of hrael Sylvestre and Ferd. de St. Vrbain, by Eug. Lau- 
rent (1877), and (right) a Statue of Here (p. I 111, by Jacquot. 

Outside the arch lies the. Place de la Carriere, named from 
the tournaments formerly held here. At the farther end is the Palais 
du Oouvernement (PI. C, 2), formerly the residence of the governors 
of the province, afterwards the prefecture, and now the headquarters 
of the "iOth army corps. 

By the gateway on the right we enter the Pepiniere (PI. D, 2, 3), 
an attractive and umbrageous park, with another entrance in the 
N. corner of the Place Stanislas, to the left of the fountain. A band 
plays here on Tues., Thurs., and Sun., at 8.30 p.m. in summer and 
2.30 p.m. in winter. In 1892 a somewhat singular bronze statue by 
Rodin was erected here to Claude Gellee {Claude Lorrain ; 1600-82"), 
the celebrated painter. 

A little to the W. of the Place de la Carriere rises the handsome j 
modern Gothic church of St. Epvre (PI. C, 3), erected in 1863-75 
by Morey, with a W. tower 285 ft. high (ascent 50 c), and a spire 
above the' crossing. The interior, with its graceful, slender columns, 
contains mural paintings by Art. Sublet. — In front of the church 
is a small modern Equestrian Statue of Bene LI., Duke of Lorraine 
(1473-1508), who defeated Charles the Bold at Nancy (p. Ill), by 

M. Schiff. 

The chief edifice in the Grande-Rue, which contains several inter- 
esting old hoiises,is the Palais Ducal (PI. C, 2), begun on the plans of> 
Jacquot deVaucouleurs under Duke Rene II., but dating mainly from 
the reign of his son and successor Antoine le Bon (1508-44), whose 
motto ('J'espere avoir') appears on the keystones of the groundfloor 
arches. The most striking external feature is the ^Grande Porterie 
(1505-12), by Mansuy Gauvain, between the oriel windows; the 
equestrian statue of Antoine le Bon above the door is modern (by 
I. Viard; 18501. Within is the *Musee Lorrain, open free on Sun. 
and Thurs., 1-4, on other days nO c. (ring briskly). 

Ground Flock Two galleries and a room :ire dedicated to the anti- 
quities and to the sculptures and other dejects dating from the middle 
aees and the Renaissance. — Inner Gallery. 250. Equestrian statue of a 
Roman emperor; prehistoric, Gallic, and Oalio-Roman antiquities, bronzes 
fnntablv Nop. 290. 294 in the 3rd criass-case), pottery, etc Then mediseval 

culptures, including: 91. Altar-piece of the l^th cent. ; 54. Madonna an4 
Child (15th cent.); 115, 116. Tombstones of the 17th cent.: 190 Sleeping 
child (terracotta), bv V. de Bonill.'. - Next Room. 5 Madonna 10. St. Joseph 
rhoth 15th cent)- 'i9. The Seven Fcenes of the Passion; 220. St. .TosepB 

15th cent.)- ''ei.ast Supper, by Flc rent Drouin (1582) : 218. St. Ursula^ 
a5th cent.); *1I7. Sepulchral statues, by Ligier Richier — Outer Gallery{ 
78. St. Margaret (18th cent.); 25. E(iuestrian statue (15th cent.-, perhap.t 

^^FiBST Flook. Chambre duBuc Antoine, to the right. 154 Handsom^ 
Renaissance chimney piece; "State-bed of Duke Antoine (1515), from tt< 
Chateau de Vauddmont; seven pieces of ^Tapestry of the 15th cent errop 
eously supposed to have been discovered in the tent of Charles the BoK 

J 



St. Sebastien. NANCY. 16. Route. 115 

after the battle of Nancy; under glass, piece of Persian figured silk of the 
11th century. - The Oalerie des Cerfs, adjoining, contains portraits and 
other paintings {Feyen-Perrin, Finding of the body of Charles the Bold) 
ancient weapons, porcelain, medals, bindings, illuminated MSS , church 
?i V4f • ' !"" ^ Temptation r.f St. Anthony (gouache drawing), bv Callot 
(No. 579), and an astronomical clock. In the centre is a series" of fine 
engravings representing the funeral of Charles III. of Lorraine (160S) At 
the end is a fine Renaissance chimney-piece from Joinville — The cabinet 
at the end contains antiquities from the Merovingian cemetery at Vieil- 
Aitre; coins, tokens, and dies; plans and views of Nancy, etc. 

The Franciscan Church {Eglise des Cordeliers; PI. C, 2) ad- 
joining the ducal palace, was built by Rene' II. in memory of his 
victory over Charles the Bold in 1477. 

.u "^^^x *i^"-^^ contains several interesting monuments (bell to the left of 
the PO'-tal). On the left side of the church are monuments of AnMn^ dl 
Vaudimont (d. 1447) and of Marie d'Har court (d. 1476), his wife- P^ivLa 
of ^f are,, second wife of Ren^ II. (d. 1547), Vith a fine statue'by Sr 
Richier, representing the deceased in the costume of a nun; Jacaues Callot • 
Charles F. Duke of Lorraine; and Duke Leopold I. The thirS monument 
rd"i?nR)"^T>/'^' of the church is the carious mausoleum o^EeTu. 
(d. 1.1U») 1 he magnificent polychrome frame-work is old (ca. 1515), hut the 
statue^ of the duke and the Madonna date from 181S. Adjacent is the tomb 
ol Charles of Lorraine, Cardinal de Vaudemont (d. 1587), with a statue bv 
Drouir,, a native of Nancy. To the left of the choir is 'the ChapelleRondl 
sarcophagi™'^^'^ "''"''''' ^^^'^ '"" ^^^^"^2' ^*^ ««-«° blTck ma?bfi 

The Grande-Rue, which traverses the 'old town', ends at the 
Porte de la Craffe or Notre-Dame (PI. C, 2), of the end of the 
14th cent., but restored in the 16th and 19th cent., with two round 
towers. Farther on is the similar Forte de la Citadelle, of 1598. 

The Rue de la Craffe leads to the left to the Cours Leopold fPl 
B 2, d), a handsome tree-shaded square, 510 yds. long and 130 yds 
wide, at the N. end of which is the Porte DesUles, built in 1785 • 
the name commemorates the devotion of an officer, killed in 1790 
by the mutinous soldiery (comp. p. HI). _ Jn the centre of the 
tours Leopold stands a bronze Statue of Marshal Drouot fp 111") 
by David d' Angers. - The Place Carnot (¥1. B, C, 3) is embellished 
with a Monument to President Carnot. To the right is the University 
designed by Morey (p. 114), with an interesting Natural History 
Museum (open in summer on Sun. and Thurs.. 1-4). Behind the 
"1470-15381 ^ '"''"''°''''*' l^y Bussiere, to Pierre Gringoire, the poet 

lv^ Vq*!^^ .^v*^® ^- ""^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^"^* ^' *^« small Place La fay ette 
(H. O cJ), with a bronze equestrian statue of Joan of Arc, byFremiet 

.nr Vr^,^r.^V^^'^'' ^^^- ^' ^' 5' tramway) traverses the 
entire SE. half ot the town. About halfway down, somewhat to 

thenght, IS the church of 5<.^<;fta5fwn('17J9-31; PI B 4) with the 
monument of Girardet, the painter (1709-78). Farther' on, the Rue 

rn p' M ''I'.'f ^' *" *^' '^^* *^ *^^^ "^•^^"^ '^^^'^ of St. Nicholas 
aV\i ' ^' T . contains several paintings by early artists of Nancy. 

m r ft^i '^/^' ^^"'' ^^*- ^'''''' '' *^>« ^«"^^« Porte St. Nicolas 
in. ( , b), built in the 17th cent., but altered in 18G6 



116 Route 16. NANCY. 

The Rue de Strasbonrj^, traversing; the suburb of St. Pierre be- 
yond tliis gate, passes the Hospital and the elegant modern church 
of St. Peter (PI. C, 7). Farther on is the Eglise de Bonsecotirs, 
situated abont V/^ M. to the S.E. of the Hue Stanislas, a church 
of the 18th cent., frequented by pilgrims, and containing the hand- 
some mausolea of King Stanislaus and his wife. 

The W. suburb of St. Jean, beyond the railway - station, is built (,n 
the site of the marsh where the body of Charles the Bobl was found 
after the Battle of Nancy (see p. 111). The modest Croix de Bourgocjm 
marks the exact spot. -, .^. -,./. 

The church of St. Lion (PI. A, 4), a handsome modern Lrothic edifice, 
is dedicated to Pope Leo IX., once Bishop of Toul. who wag born at 
Dabo in Lorraine. — Among other modern edifices in this quarter are 
the Military Hospital (1907) and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart (1902-6). — 
Farther to theN., en the C6te des Chanoines, is the conspicuous sanatorium 
of fSt. Antoine (cable-railway, see p. 110). 

Fkom Nancy to Chateau-Salixs (Vic; Saargemiind), 24 M., railway m 
IV2-2V2 hrs. (fares 4 fr., 2 fr. flO, 1 fr. 95 c). We follow the line to Paris a^ 
far as (3 M.) Champigneulles (p. 109). where we turn to the rigl^t and cross the 
Meurthc. — 17 M. Moncel (buffet) is the frontier-station, with the French 
cnstom-house. 19'/^ M. Chamhrey, with the German custom-house. From 
(21 M.) Burthicourt, on the Seille, a branch-line runs to (2 M.) Vic-sur- 
Seille., a small town with the ruins of an old castle and some disused 
salt-works. 24 M. Chdteau-Salins also has some abandoned salt-works, 
from which it derives its name. — Continuation of the railway to Dieuze 
(p. 341) and Saargemiind, see BaedekerK^ Rhine. 

From Nancy to J^fetz, see p. 109 and R. 14 a; to DiJo7i, see R. 48; to 
Epinal, see R. 47b; to Strassburg, see R. 50-, to Calais, sec pp. 99-94 and.R. 10. 



II. NORMANDY. 



17. From Dieppe to Paris 



18. 



19, 



20. 



21. 



22. 



Pourville, Puys, etc. From Dieppe to Le Tre'port, 121 122 

a. Via Rouen ' 

From St. Pierre- du-Vauvray to Les Ande'lys. 'Prom 
Vernon to Giso-s, 123. — From Vernon toPacy-sur-Eiire 
tTom Mantes to Paris via Argenteuil, 124. 

b. Via Gisors and Pontolse 

From Gisors to Pont-de-rArche, 127, 

Rouen 

Environs of Rouen, Bonsecours, 139.* - From Rouen 
*?>e Havre by the Seine. From Rouen to Orleans, 
via Klbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres, 139. ' 

From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen 

Ste.Adresse. From Le Havre to Honfleur, 145— From 
Breaute-Beuzeville to Lillehonne. From Motteville to 
Clares and to Monterolier-Buchy. From Barentin to 
Caudebec, 146. 

From Dieppe to Le Havre and Etretat 

Watering- Places between Dieppe and Le Havre 

a. From Dieppe to Le Havre 

From Fecamp to Etretat, 14S. 

b. From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux 

Veules-les-Roses, 149. 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes 

From Cany to Le'^Petires-Dalles. St. Pi'erre-en Port 150 

From Dieppe to Etretat / 

Yport ; Vaucottes, 151. — From Etretat to Le Havre 15'> 
Watering-Places in Calvados ' 

a. Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Houlgate, and 
Cabourg 

Chateau d'Hebertot. From Trouvilleto Honfleur 154 — 
From Dives-Cabourg to Benouville, 156. ' 

b. Lion-sur-Mer, Luc-sur-Mer, Langrune, St. Aubin- 
»ur-Mer, and CourseuUes 

I. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer direct, 
ir. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer via Ouistreham 
in. From Luc-sur-Mer to Langrune, St. Aubin-sur- 

Mer, and Coiirseulles 

From Cherbourg to Paris . 



d. 



119 
122 

126 

128 

140 

147 
147 
147 

149 

150 

150 

152 

152 



Environs of Cherbourg, 161. - From Valognes to Bar- 
tleur. From Carentan to Carteret (Jersey). FromNeuilly 
to Isignyjind Gr;.ndcamp. From Li^on to Coutances via 
6^ Lo, Ibi. — From Rayeux to Port-en-Bessin ; to r.uc 
viaAsnelles; to Arromanches; to La Hesace. From 3Ie'- 
zidon to Trouville. From Le Mesnil-Maui^er to Ste. Gau- 
burge, 165. - From Lisieux to Trouville and to Hon- 
«eur;to LaTnnite-de-Reville. Abbev ofVal Richer,166. 
- From Bernay to Ste. Gauburge. From Serquigny to 
Rouen. Prom Conches to L .igle, 167. - From Evreux 
to Louviers; to Verneuil; to Dreux ; to Honfleur, 168. 



156 
156 
156 

157 

158 



Bakdkkkks Northern France. 5th Edit. 



8 



118 NORMANDY. 



23. Caen 169 

From Caen to Dives-Cabourg ; to Falaiae; to Gran- 
ville, 175. 

24. From Cherbourg to Brest l«o 

From Coutance.s to Lessay, ITT. — St. Jacut-de-la-Mer. 
La Garde-St-Ca'^t, 1T8. 

25. From Granville to Paris 178 

From Granville to Condd-sur-Vire; to Avranches; to 
Mont St. Michel, 179. — From Vire to Romagny ; 
Mortain. From Montsecret-Vassy to Tinchebray, 180. 
— From Briouze to Couterne, 181. — From Ste. Gau- 
burge to Mortagne •, La Trappe, 182. 

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alen(;on. Falaise .... 185 

From Couliboeuf to Falaise, 185. 

27. From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne . . 188 

From Mavenne to Fougeres; to Pre-en-Pail, 190. 



The former province of Normandy (p. xxxiii), on Ihe whole a pictur. 
esque fertile, and well cultivated region, is traversed by tbe lower coursi 
of the Seine, .n which stands its old capital Eouen. F:.mou- for its ancien 
towns, its cathedrals, its abbeys, and its castles, as well as for its historica 
associations. No niandy enjoys also a more modern reputation for th( 
watering-places that stud it'^ N. coast (RR. 20, 21). 

The Celtic tribes that inhabited this part of France w^re subdued b; 
Csesar's lieutenant Q. Titurius Sabinus (De Bello Gallico III, 17), and unde 
Gratian their country became known as Ga'lia Lugdnncnsis Secundd 
Later it formed part of the Frankish kingdom ot Neustria. TheNorthmM 
appeared cm its coasts as early as 841, and by the convention of St Clair 
sur-Epte in iMl their leader Rollo was lecognized by Charles th" SimpL 
as duke of Normandv. Rollo's m' st famous successor was William II 
(1027-87), known as William the Conqueror, under whom the duchy reache< 
the height of its i ower. The com^uest of England (1066) was deirimenta 
to the interests of Normandy; afer Williams death its possession w^a 
disputed until Eenry I. united it definitely to the English crown by hi 
victory at Tinchebray (p. 18n) in 1106. For a century Normandy wa 
governed by the Anglo-Norman kings, but in 1204 Pliilip Augustus of Franc 
captured Rouen and in 1259 Henrv IIL of England was for.ed to lenounc 
all claim to the duchy at the treaty of Abbeville. The first properly con 
stituted Estates of Normandy date from 1337. The P/ovince suffere; 
severelv during the so-calied Hundred Years' War (1337-1453). Edward II. 
of Fngiand landed at St. Vaast-la-Hongne in 1345 and rapidly overran th 
countrv; but by the treaty ( f Bretlgny in 1360 he renounced his claim t 
Normandy, and in 1380 the onlv Norman town in the possession of th 
Engli-^h was Cherbourg. Thirtv-five years later the English again appeare 
in Normandv and by 1420 Henry V. had made himself master of th 
province. Resistance to the foreign invader, however, gradually bega 
to make headway. Rouen opened its gates to the French m 1449; nej 
year the English suftered a cru^bin- defeat at Formigny ; and in Auj 
1450 they finallv evacuated the province. Nothing remained to tbem C 
the old Anglo-Norman possessions except the Channel Mands. ^ri im 
Normandy was declared an inalienable part (f the royal domains. 55in(^ 
then its history has been comparatively tranquil, apart from it.s biiet ov 
violent part in the religious wars of the 16th cent, terminated in Normandj 
by the peace of Amboisc (1563). 










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=S C; =5 fcf es: ~ <: r-, >^ t, >-, ^ p>. .- 

_J J ; ,-; ^ ■ 'j d r- cc c; 2 :£ ti d ± 12 i£ L 



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119 
17. From Dieppe to Paris. 

1041/2 or 125 M. Railway in 21/2-5 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 90. 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 
80 c.)- The quickest trains run via Rouen, though that route is the longest 
in mileage. — From London to Dieppe, see p. xiii. 

Dieppe. — Arrival. The boat-trains run to and from the Gare Mari- 
time (PI. 1), 2; buOet). The Cen'ral Station (P). C, 3) lies ca. 3/4 M. from 
the b<ach. Omnibus from the station to the hotels or to a private address 
30 c, with Itig'^age 60 c, at night 50 and 80 c. 

Hotels. Travellers are recommended to ascertain charges beforehand. 
♦Hotel Royal (PI. a, C, 1 ^ No. 15), 200 R. from 6, B. I1/2, dej. a la carte, 
D. b <fe 10, pens from 16, omn. I1/2 fr. ; 'Hot. ]M£teopole (PI. d, D 1- 
No. 24), IPO R. from 5, B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. 0, pens. from. I21/2, omn. I1/2 fr. • 
♦Grand-Hotel (F1. g, E, 1; No. 59), 150 R. from 6, B. IV2, dej. 4, D. 6 
pens, from If), omn. 1 fr. ; Regina Palace (PI. b, B, 1 ; No. 1), 150 R 
from 4 B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr.: Hot. des Etbangers 
(PI. f D 1; No. 33), 85 R. fr^m 31/2, B. IV2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 10, 
omn. l'/2fr.5 all these first-class hotels are in the Rue Aguado, facing 
the sea and open only during the season. — Less pretending- Hot du 
Rhin ET DR Newhaven (PI. 6; C, 1), Rue Agnado 11, R. from 6, B. li/?, 
dcj. 6 D. 4, pens, from Id, omn. 1 fr. ; Hot. Beao-Rivage (PI. q; D, 1), 
Rue Aguado 32; Hot. de.s Familles (PL 1; C, 2), Rue de PHotel-de-Ville 29, 
R. fr. m 4, B. 11/4, ddj. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr ; Hot de Paris (PL m- 
C, 1), Place Camille-Saint-Saens 1, D. 31/2, omn. 1 fr., good —Open all the 
Jof • '" o""** ■ ^^'~''^' ^^' Nokmandie, Kue de la Barre 14; Hot. de la Paix 
(I'l. J ; C, 2), Grande-Rue 212; Hot. de la Plage et Windsor (PI 1; D 1) 
Rue Aguado 20, R. from 3. B. 1. dej. 3, D. 4. pens, from 9 fr. ; Hot.' du 
faoLEiL 1. Ok (PJ. c; B, 2), Rue Gambetta 4, R. from 3, B. 1, dei. 3, D 31/2 
pens, from 8V2 fr. ; Hot. du Chariot-dT)r (PL k ; C, 2), Rue de la Barre 4'! 
R. from 3, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. S'/z, pens, from 8fr.; Hot. du Commerce 
(PL n: p, 2). Place Nationale 2. R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 pens 
from 91/2 fr., good; Hot. du OSant (PL p; D, 2), Rue du Chene- Perce ; 
Hot. DU Gkand-Cerf (PI. h; C, 1, 2), Kue de la Halle- au-Me 16. - 
Pensions (IngHsh). Buckland, Rue Toustain, 52 fr. per week: Mile. Brau, 
Rue Gambetta 32, from 6 fr. per day; etc. 

Restaurants. Caf^-Rt-siaurnnt du Casino^ inside the casino, dej. 4, 
1). 5 fr.; Brasserie du Casino, out-ide the casino, dej. 21/2. D. 3iA fr (gipsies)- 
Resiaurani du Faisan Dor^ or Cabois. Grande-Rue 74; Restavrant du Rocher- 
V-t, f,f/', ?"® ^^ Lamoriniere, dej. 2, D. 21/4 fr. (rooms also); at the 
mtle miel des Arcades and others under the arcades of the Bourse, next 
he Poissonnerie, on the Quai Duquesne and the Quai Henri-Quatre, dej. 13/. 
i'. z (r. (incl. cider; wine extra). 5 j / , 

r .^^^^\<^f*f^ Suisse, Grande-Rue 1, and in the Arcades; Cafi de Rouen, 
tafides Trtbunavx, both at the other end of the Grande-Rue. 

Cabs with seats for two pers. I1/4 fr. per drive (after midnight 21/2 fr.), 

A or 31/2 fr. per hr. ; with four seats 11/28 and 2-4 fr. respectively! 

Higher charges on the days of the races. — Omnibuses for excursions, see 

Post & Telegraph Office (PL 14; C, 2), Rue Victor-Hugo 14 and at the 
)atns in summer. 

Baths (see p. 120). Sea-Baths. Within the casino : with bathing box 
)r tent 7^ c. ; with costume and towels t fr. 80 c. for men, 1 fr 95 c ffr 

•nJn^".?n*^''^^S^m''V \ ^''- ^^A ^"'^ 1 ^'•- 60 «•= t^"t 60, foot-bath 15, 
-ostunie 50 towel 10, 'peignoir 25, costume and towels 1 fr. or 1 fr. 10 c 

rnnTxe'","\.2V4fr ' ^' ^^' ^'^^ ^^^^^ """ ^^^* ^""^^^^ '° *^^ adjoining 

Casino (open June 15th-Sept. 30th). Adm. before 12 noon 50 c., 12-6 

veek fT'?n°f •'"h*'^?^^^ ^fJ.l '■^•' ^^'i ^^♦^^ Sept. 15th; subscription per 

rer, ^ft R«"'ln* ^ '.™.1?.*^ ^0' '^^'«° ^0 fr. ; 2 pers. 25, 43, 68, and 110 fr. : 

!'«". ,^b, 58, 90, and IbO fr. — Theatre, adm. 1-6 fr 

itP.^;?«"^ **" .^^,7,^^^^" *^''^« ^ '^^y ('^ee p. xiii). - Excursion- 

learners ,n summer to (IV2 hr.) Le Triport and to (2 hrs.) St. Yal<^y-en-Caux. 

8* 



120 lioute 17. DIEI^PK. From Dieppe 

Omnibuses in summer to Veulcs (2 fr.), Berneval (IV4 fr.), Povrville 
(1 I'r.; 75 c. to tlie golf course), /'wy.'; (60 c), and Arquet and Marlin-Eglise. 
— Motor Omnibus to Vurengeville via Ponrville. 

British Vice-Consul, //. W. Lee-Jortin., <^ns.i Duquesne 8. — American 
Consular Agent, W. P. S. Palmer-Samborne, (^uai de I-ille 8. 

English Church. All Saints (PI. 7^ B, 2), Rue de la Barre; services 
at 11 and 7.30; chaplain, Rev. C. H. Merk, Ph. Z>., 35 Faubourg de la Harrc. 
Golf Links, on the Pourville road, 1 M. from Diei)i>e (visitors' fees, 
3 fr. per day, 10 fr. per week, 25 fr. per mnntb). 
Carved Ivory and Lace are specialties of Dieppe. 
Dieppe, with 23,629 inhab., is situated in a valley formed by 
two ranges of lofty white chalk-cliffs, at the mouth of the Arquet. 
The estuary was formerly called the 'Dtep\ from which the town 
derives its name. In spite of the vicinity of Le Havre, Dieppe, with 
its deep and safe harbour, still carries on a considerable trade in 
coal with England and in timber with Norway and Sweden. Dieppe 
is also a fashionable watering-place, being annually visited by 
numerous English as well as French families. Captured and destroy- 
ed several times during the wars between England and France and 
afterwards in the religious wars, Dieppe suffered severely from the 
plague in 1668 and 1670, and in 1694 the citadel and town were 
reduced to ruins by the English fleet returning from an unsuccessful 
attack on Brest (p. 230). 

The Gare Maritime (PI. D, 2) and the Steamboat Quays are on 
the N. side of the old Avant Port or outer harbour. To the S., 
beyond the Bassins Duquesne and Berigny, lies the Central Station 
(PL C, 3); and to the E., between the Bassin Duquesne and the 
suburb of Le Pallet (PL E, 3), inhabited by sailors and fishermen 
said to be of Venetian origin, are several basins of 'more recent date 
extending to the S. To the N.E. of the Gare Maritime extends the 
Vieux Chenal, or harbour-entrance ; a good view may be obtained 
from the W. pier. On the opposite cliffs rises the modern Gothic 
church of iSotre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours (PI. F,2). The Quai Henri- 
Quatre, on which stands the College (PL 2; D, 2), built in the 18th 
cent., leads to the W. from the Gare Maritime to the Poissonnerie, or 
Fish-Market (PI. D, 2), a busy and animated scene in the morning. 
Along the N.W. side of the town, between the fine Boulevard 
Maritime (V\. C-E, 1), laid out in 1901, and the Rue Ayuado, in 
which are the principal hotels, stretches La Plage, a handsome pro- 
menade, 2/3 M. long. The tall chimneys seen in the Rue Aguado 
belong to the extensive Tolacco Manufactory (PL 9; D, 1, 2). 

At the S.W'. extremity of the Plage is the Casino and Etahlissement 
des Bains (PL C, V). The casino is a handsome brick and glass 
structure replete with every convenience and including a small 
theatre (adm., see p. 119). The terrace in front is reserved for sub- 
scribers; below it are the dressing-cabins. In fine weather the scene 
is very amusing. 

The site of the casino was occupied until the end of the 14th 
cent, by a small harbour, a relic of which still exists in the Porte 



to Paris. DIEPPE. 17. Route. 121 

du Port-d'Ouest (PI. 13 ; C, 1), a gateway with two roiiiid towers to 
the S. Close by, in the Place Camille-Saint-Saens, is the Theatre 

V V?,;V;.', o\' *^ *^^ ^^- ^'^ *^® ^"'"'^ ^«^^^ (P^- i) and the J^o/ei 
de HUe (PI. 8). - The Musee (PI. 11 • C, 1), in the Rue de I'Hotel- 
fle-Viile, contains local antiquities and curiosities, a natural history 
collection, and some paintings, besides a collection of art and a 
library presented in 1889 by Saint-Saens, the composer. Adm 
daily, except Mon. in summer, 11-5; in winter on Tues., Thurs ' 
bat., and Sun., 11-3. 

The iJuc deSygogne (PI. B, 1, 2), which skirts the base of the 
castle-hill, leads through a new quarter to the Place de la Barre 
when.-e the Rue de Chastes (right) brings us to the entrance of the - 

Castle (PI B, 1, 2), erected in 1433 on a precipitous white 
clKf at the S.W. extremity of the Plage as a defence against the 
English Visitors are admitted daily from 8 to 11.30 a.m. and from 
1 dU to p m (fee). Fine view from the terrace and from the edge 
ot the adjoining cliffs. ^ 

. I^mT''' ^\^ ^r^" ^^ *^' ^'^' ^^ ^^ ^^"«' ''^^^^ is continued 
to the N.E., to the Quai Henri-Quatre, by the Grande-Rue 

The church ofSt.Remy (PL 5; C, 2). not far from the castle, 

in a mixed style of the 16th and 17th cent., contains huge round 

columns of which those in the choir have elaborately carved cap- 

Iff ..v. \ ^^y ^^^P'^' ^"^ ^* *^« entrance to the sacristy, on the 
leit ot the choir, are some good sculptures 

is .n in.?^'.-^ Of St Jacques (PI. 4; C, D, 2), a little farther on, 
IS an interesting florid Gothic edifice, dating from the 12-16th cent 
and possessing all that 'lace-like beauty of detail and elaborate 
nnish, which charms m spite of soberer reason, that tells us it is 
not in stone that such vagaries should be attempted' (Fergussonl 

tn'2t 'T'T'^^^ '' ^'"^'^ ^'^^ *'^"«*«' adorned with statues 
in niches; the W. tower dates from the 16th century 

Ihe hLTv w1f'h°° '?'i."«,'" fe'=»'o«d in 1612) coataiDs a moderrcopv of 

case in the sarrisfv tho rv,^To ^iT • '^J „^i^sson. ihe fine wooden stair- 
pulpit (167Vl'rTL';\eworry'''^ cboir-stalls, the organ-case (1675), and the 

afinP^9/J/''%^n*'°''^^'' ,^^JT>^ *^' '^^^^^' ^^ embellished with 
of the '0^1^^ ^"^^^^^ ^' ' '''^^' ' ""''''' of Dieppe, and one 

admir.^Dl f^'T'}'' ^^^^iS^^^l^ of France, who defeated the Dutch 

AK ' 7^f-^<^""'0°-brake, or by carriage (there and back 5 or 6 fr.). 

CauUe-me 'LVurXmelJ"^^^^^^ '^^ P" ^^0), by the cliffs of the 

bathing-, lacratthrmoutwrn^'^''^ *'*'/''^-'' * prettily situated little 

^ 1 ai the month ot the Scie. At Varengevilk-svvMei' (ho!el), 



122 Route 17. PONT-DE-L'ARCHE. From Dieppe 

21/2 M. farther on, is the Manoir d'Ango, a farmhouse built in the 16th cent, 
by the merchant-prince An-o of Dieppe, who entertained l^rancis 1. h.'re, 
and 2 JI. farther is the Lighthouse of Ailly (gratuity). About, 3/^ M. from 
the lighthouse K^Var^ngerAlU- Plage (Hot. de la Terrasse, pens, irom 
8 U ■) and 'H^ M. farther on Sie. Marguerite., at the mouth ot the baane, 
with a Romanesque church datin- in part from the 12th century V\ e 
next reach (^^l-i M. from Dieppe) Quiherville (UOt. du Casino, open June- 
Sept. , R. from 3, B. 3/,, dej. 3, D. 3V2, pens, from 7 fr. ; des Bains) a 
small bathing -place, reached also from the statnin of 0)1,7^^-1*^'^^^^^-^^ 
f3 M • omn. thrice dailv in summer, 75 c). — Puys {Hotel de Buys, of 
the first class; furnished" houses to let) is a pretty little bathing-place, with 
fine villas, I'A M. to the N.E. of Dieppe by the shore (at low tide only), 
21/2 M via Le Pollet. It may be reached also by omnibus (see p. 12U). 
The CiU de Limes or Camp de Cisav, on the cliff to the right as we 
approach, is said to have been a Gallic 'oppidum' -- j^^^^^**"^ |/^°J- 
de la Plage; Grand-Hotel) is another bathmg-place, 7 M. to the N.t. of 
Dieppe (omn. see p. 120). 

From Dieppe to Lk TRfePOKT , 28 M., railway in IV4-IV2 hr. (tares 
5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 25 c). - 21/2 M. liouxmesnil (p. 126). 10 M. Envermeu, 
with a handsome church (16th cent.). To Aumale, see p. 3b. -J-J'h M. 
Touffreville-Criel. Criel (Hot. de la Plage), 13/4 M. to the N.W., on the Teres, 
has a small bathing-place at the mouth of the river, I'A M. farther on. -- 
The line crosses the Yeres and ascends rapidly. View limited. — ^b M. 
Eu, see p. 36. - 28 31. Le Tr&port (p. 37) 

From Dieppe to Le Havre (Ficamp, Eiretat), see K. ZO 

a. From Dieppe to Paris viS, Rouen. 

125 M Railway in 21/2-6 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 80 c). From 
Dieppe io Eouen, 38 M., in W^V* hr (fares 3 fr. 55 2 tr 40, 1 fr 70 c.). - 
From Rouen to Paris, 87 M., in 2'/4-4V4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 35 10 fr. 40, 6 fr. 
70 c ). — Alternative route from Mantes to Paris, see p. 1^4. 

Soon after' quitting Dieppe the train passes througli a tunnel 
about 1 M long , and then enters the valley of the Scie, which it 
crosses 22 times. I8V2M. St.Viclor-VAhhaye. The line then traverses 
a high embankment, beyond which the views are attractive. AX 
(25 M ) aires (Cheval Noir) we intersect the railway from Motteville 
to Amiens (p 146), which unites the Dieppe line with the line to Le 
Havre. To the left is the pretty chateau of Cleres (15-16th cent.). 
28V2 M Monville. The line to Le Havre diverges to the right near 
a small viaduct. 321/2 ^- Malaunay. From this point to Rouen the 
district traversed is cheerful and picturesque. — Sii/gM. Maromme. 
Then a long tunnel. 

38 M. Rouen (Gare de la Rive Droite), see p. lio. 
The train passes through two long tunnels and crosses the Seine, 
affording a beautiful view of Rouen to the right. To the left, on the 
hills which rise from the river, stands the church of Bonsecours 
fp 139). — 41V'> M- Sotteville, an industrial suburb of Rouen j 
44 M St.Etienne-du-Rouvray. — 46V2 M. Oissei (small buffet). 
Branch-line to Elbeuf (Glos-Monfort), see p. 140. — We cross the 
Seine. 

51 M. Pont-de-1'Arclie (Hot de Normandie, with cafe', good; des 
Deux-Oares), where the Seine is again crossed, above the influx of 
the Eure, is the junction of a line to Gisors (p. 127). The fine church 



to Paris. VERNON. 17. Route. 123 

of the 15-16th cent, has some admirahle wood-carving of the 17-18th 
and good stained glass of the 16-17th centuries. ' 

..r./^^®"'y ^ ^- *° *^^ ^- '^ *^® ruined ^66ey 0/ Bonport, founded about 
IISX) by Ricliard Coeur-de-Lion , of which the handsome refectory (13th 
cent.) and the abbot's lodgings are the chief remains (no admission). 

To the left is the large Barrage de Poses. — 581/2 M. St. Pierre-du- 
Vauvray. A branch-railway runs hence to (5 M.) Louviers (p. 140). 

From St. Pierke-uu-Vauvhat to Les Andelys, 10 M., railway in 25- 
35 min. (fares 1 fr 90, 1 fr. 3u, 80 c.). The train crosses the Seine and 
beyond (d'/z M) Mmds skirts the right bank of that river. To the ri"ht 
appears the castle of Gaillard (see below). 7 M. La Roque; 8V2 M Zo 
Vacherie. - lU M. Les Andelys, a town with 5514 inhab., on the right bank 
of the Seine, consisting of Petit Andely (Hot. de la Chaine-d'Or: Bellevue) 
nearest the Seine, and Grand Andely (Grand-Hotel, good; Hot. de Paris- 
du Grand- Cerfj, 1/2 M. from the station. At the former are a number of 
ipicturesque old houses, and the interesting Church of St. Sauveur (12th and 
14th cent.), with a fine choir with round pillars and a handsome altar — 
On a neighbouring height are the (lU min.) ruins of the famous castle of 
*Gaillard, erected by Richard Coeur-de-Lion in 1197 to command the 
navigation of the Seine and protect Normandy against the French monarchs. 
Chateau Gaillard, the 'gay castle\ has been described as the greatest mon- 
ument of Richard s genius, and it was certainly one of the finest specimens 
of a Norman castle, either in England or Normandy. It was protected by 
x'^nn* ^^^^ °, outworks and 17 towers, and its walls were 8-14 ft. thick. 
In 12U4 this almost impregnable stronghold was captured by Philip Augustus 
after_ a siege of five months. The castle afterwards became a state-prison, 
*?T °. ^i; T*^ ^^® ^'^'^^^ ^^ *^« murder of Margaret of Burgundy, wife 
of Louis X. It was destroyed by Henri IV in 1603, along with the castles 
of several dangerous Korman barons. The donjon is still in tolerable 
Pr^Q^'^c l^°- r ^^/ ^^^'''''^ ^-^ Notre-T)arr,e at Grand Andely dates from 
the Id-lbth cent., and contains good stained glass, choir-stalls, and various 
works of art, including a Martyrdom of St. Clara, by i^. Varin, the master 
of Poussin, and a Last Supper, attributed to Lesueur. The choir has a 

U0j4-lbb5), who was born in the neighbourhood, adorns the square bearing 
his name. Ihe mtH de Ville possesses a large painting of Coriolanus bv 
isxis artist. — A public conveyance plies between Les Andelys and the 
railway-station of &aussay-les-Ecouis (p. 127). 

The train now penetrates the chalk-hills by means of two tunnels. 
--661/2 M. Gaillon (Hot. d'Evreux); the town, with 2479 inhab., lies 
1 1/4 M. to the left. The chateau of Gaillon, erected in 1500 by Cardi- 
nal Georges d'Amboise and now replaced by a prison, was one of 
the finest in Normandy, and a favourite residence of Francis I. 

77M. Vernon (Hot. d'Evreux; de Paris; du Soleil-d'Or; duLion- 
d Or), with 8667 inhab., once strongly fortified, possesses a con- 
spicuous tower, erected in 1123 by Henrv I. of England. The 
Church is an interesting buUding of the 12-15th cent., containing 
several noteworthy works of art. To the S. stretches the Forest of 
Bizy; and on the right bank of the Seine are Vernonnet and the 
Forest of Vernon. 

Fkom Veknon to GisoRs, 25 M., railway in l^A-S hrs. (fares 4 fr. 6(1, 
VIl\- ' . fN" The trams start from a special station, adjoining the 
main-line station. — We cross the Seine. 6 M. Gasny. About 1 M. to the 
Rnn^r „-."s^/ ^*°K 2^ *^« S^i°e, lies La Roche-Ouyon (Hot. de la Maison- 
Sf^' A '^'i^^ "^'^^ * """'"^^ chateau of the 12-16th cent, and another 
paruy modern chateau belonging to the Larochefoucauld familv. — lO'/-.; M 
oray-tcvt. Ihe village of Ecot, about 3 M. to the W., ia interesUng on 



124 Rnvlei:. MANTES. From Dieppe 

account of Ihe line Chateau <lu Oitsnay, dating from <he 15-16th cent, but 
larijelv rebuilt in modern times. — At (18V-2 M.) Dan(ju is a 16th cent, 
cliaieau. — 21V-^ M. ^eavjles-lnral. To the left, the tower of NeauUes (I'ith - 
cent.). Our line now joins the railway from font-de-TArche (p. 127). 
2372 M. Oisors-Ville. —'25 M Gison-Oue^t. 

Another railway runs from Vernon to (i2V-' M.) Pacy-mr-Eure (p. 140), 
where it joins the line from Klbeuf (Rouen) to Dreux and Chartres. 

The long tunnel between (82 M.) Bonnieres-sur-Seine and Rolle- 
hoise cuts off the wide circuit which the river describes here. — At 
the chateau of ((^51/2 -^^O Hosny-sur-Seine Sully, the celebrated 
minister of Henri IV, was born in l5u9. TheDuchessof Berry resided 
in it from 1818 to 1830. 

89 M. Mantes (Grand Cerf; Rocher de Cancale, very fair ; Hot. 
Moderne), a picturesque town with 8329 inhab., surnamed 'La JoUt\ 
has two railway-stations: Mantes-Siation, where many of the trains 
do not stop, and Mantes-Embranchement (buffet), where the route 
from Paris to Caen and Cherbourg (R. 22) diverges. The Avenue de 
la Republique, passing tlie Palais de Justice (1906), leads from the 
latter station to the Place de la Re'publique, whence the Rue Nation - 
ale descends to the Seine. 

The tower of St. Mnclou, open at the top and adorned with 
carved niches for statues (some of which remain), unites the Gothic 
and Renaissance styles ; it dates from the 14th century. Tlie ancient 
Hotel de Ville is under restoration. In front of it is a Renaissance 
Fountain by N. Delabrosse (1521). 

It was at the capture of Mantes that William the Conqueror 
received by a fall from his horse the injury of which he afterwards 
died at Rouen (1087); and that prince is said to have bequeathed a 
large sum for the erection of the present Gothic church of *Notre- 
Dame on the site of one burned down during the siege. The bulk 
of the edifice dates from the end of the 12th cent. , though it has 
been frequently altered and recently restored. The elegant srallery 
at the top of the towers, formed by a double balustrade, is modern. 
The W. facade is embellished with a fine rose-window and the triple 
portal is richly sculptured, though unfortunately mutilated. The 
part to the right dates from 1300. 

The fine Interior, which has no transepts, is unusually brightly lighted, 
owing to the absence of stained windows. In the nave round pillars 
alternate with clustered columns, some of which rise as high as the lofty 
vaulting. The pillars at the end of the choir, and those supporting the 
stilted Gothic arches, are specially noteworthy. The triforium gallery is 
lighted by small windows from behind. The towers, from the height of 
the vaulting of the aisles to the summit of the nave, open into the church. 
The live apsidal chapels, and the large S. chapel, the roof of which is 
supported by a central pillar, were added in the 14th century. 

A small island in the Seine here is united with Mantes and 
with Limay, on the opposite bank, by handsome modern bridges. 
An old bridge (12-15th cent.) spans the Seine farther up. 

From Mantes to Paris via Argenteuil, 36 M., railway in 1-13/4 hr. 
(fares 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 85 c). This line crosses the Seine and follows 



il 



to Paris. POISRY. /7. Route. 125 

the right bank via (IV* M.) Limay, O M.) Jmiers, O'/z M.) Meulan-Hardri- 
court, and (15 M.) Triel. Meulan (Hot. Pinchon) and Triel both possess 
interesling old churches. — We skirt the hill of Ihe Autil (555 ft.), and cross 
the Oife before reaching (20V2 M.) Conflans-Sfe-Honorine , V2 M. from the 
other station at Conflans (p. 128). Thence to Paris via (23i/2 M.) Herhlay, 
(Idy-z M.) Cormeilles-en- Paritis, and (30 M.) Argenteuil (Soleil d'Or), see 
Baedeker''^ Paris. 

From Mantes to Caen and Cherbourg.^ see R. 22. 

To the left, as we quit the station of Mantes, we obtain a fine 
view of the towers of the town. 941/2 M. Epdne-Mezieres; 991/2 M. 
Les Mureaux, 3/^ M. from Meulan (see above); 103 M. Vemouillet- 
Verneuil, the station on the left bank for Triel (see above). The 
railway now closely follows the windings of the Seine, on its left bank. 

108 M. Poissy. — Hotels. Hotel de Rouen, Rue de Paris 10, near 
the station; de l'Estdrgeon, Boul. de la Seine 6, with first-class restaurant; 
DD Chemin-de-Fer, Place de la Gare; de la Maikie, Rue de Paris 18. 

Poissy, a town with 7959 inhab. , was the birthplace of St. Louis 
(1215-70). It was also the scene of the abortive conference held in 
1661 with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman 
Catholic and Protestant parties, the compromise arrived at being 
vetoed by the Sorbonue. — The Church of Notre-Dame is a fine 
building in the Transition style (ca. 1140), altered in the 15th and 
16th cent, and restored in the 19th. Above the centre rises a well- 
preserved bell-tower, terminating in a lofty spire, and at the W. end 
is a square tower, surmounted by an octagonal story capped by a small 
stone spire. We enter by the double portal on the S. side, an ele- 
gant work of the 16th cent., but unfortunately much mutilated. The 
nave and part of the choir show both Norman and Gothic arches, 
and groined vaults, the compartments of which are separated by 
arched joists, as in barrel-vaulting. The triforium is formed by a 
row of twin-arches. The aisles exhibit vaulting in which the pointed 
arch is used, and the apsidal chapels have stilted vaulting. The 
apse, recently restored, is lighted by five rose-windows. — In front of 
the church is a bronze statue, by Fre'miet, of Meissonier, the painter 
(1815-91), nearly opposite his former house. — Ligne de Grande 
Ceinture to Paris, see Baedeker's Paris. 

HI M. Achhres, in the forest of St. Germain, is the junction of 
the direct line from Dieppe via Gisors (R. 17b). At (114 1/2 M.) 
Maisons-Laffitle is a chateau built in the 17th cent, by Mansart. 
In the vicinity is a Bace Course. 

The Seine is crossed before and after (II61/9 M.) Houilles' 
Carrihres- St- Denis. — To the left is the asylum of Petit-Nanterre, 
to the right St. Germain and its terrace. On the left we see the hills' 
of Cormeilles, Sannois, and Montmorency, then Argenteuil, and the 
fort of Mt.VaMrien. The Seine is crossed for the last time at (121 M.l 
Asnihres, where the lines to Argenteuil and Versailles diverge. The 
trnin passes Clichy, intersects the fortifloations of Pails, threads a 
tunnel, and reaches — 

125 M. Paris (Gare St. Lazare). 



126 }:ouU 17. FORGKS-LKS-EAUX. From Diefpe 

b. From Dieppe to Paris vi& Gisors and Pontoise. 

104V2 M. Railway in 3V2-5»/4 hra. (fares 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 30 c). , 
Dieppe, see p. 119. — 1^/2 M. Rouxmesnil , junction for Le Tre- 
port (p. 122). — 31/2 ^- Arques-la-Bataille, a small town at the 
confluence of the Biihune and the Arques, with an imposing ruined 
Castle, is celehrated for the decisive victory won here in 1589 by 
Henri IV with 4000 men over the forces of the League, amounting to 
30,000 men, under the Due de Mayenne. Founded in the 11th cent, 
on the borderofNormandybya Seigneur d'Arques, the castle changed 
hands frequently during the wars which raged in this district; the 
English held it from 1419 until 1449, when it finally passed to 
France. It did not become a ruin till the 18th cent, and is now 
public property, always open to visitors (gratuity). Although oc- 
cupying a secure position on the summit of a hill, this stronghold 
was farther protected by a moat and two walls, the first of which is 
flanked by four massive towers of brick and stone, built by Francis I. 
The donjon dates from 1123. — The Church of Arques, a handsome 
Gothic building of the 16th cent., contains a fine Renaissance rood- 
loft, old stained glass, etc. — The Forest of Arques lies to the N.E. 
I5V2 M- Bures-Londinieres. Bures has a fine Gothic church of 
the 12-13th cent, with a Holy Sepulchre of the 16th cent, and other 
noteworthy sculptures. 18 M. Mesnieres has a fine Renaissance 
chateau (on the left). — 21 M. NeufcMtel-en-Bray (Grand Cerf: 
Lion d'Or), a town with 4293 inhab. , is noted for its cheese. The 
handsome church dates from the 12-16th centuries. The town 
contain! a small Musee. — Beyond (26 M.) Nesle-St-Saire the> 
railway quits the valley of the Bethune. — 301/9 M. Serqneux 
(Buffet), also a station on the line from Amiens to Rouen (p. 31), 

321/2 M. Forges -les-Eaux. — Hotels. Gk.-H6t. du Pakc, at the 
Etablissement ; Hot. Continental, close by, open end of May to end of 
Sept., R. from 3, B. IV4, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 10, omn. V2 fr- ; du Mou- 
TON. DU Lion-d'Or, both in the town. — Etablissement (season 15th June- 
1st Oct.)- Adm. in the morning 50 c, afternoon 1 fr., whole day li/2fr. ; 
subscription for a month 25 fr. ; bath 2V2-4 fr. (including linen). — Omnibus 
from the Hot. du Lion-d'Or to Serqueu'J (IVzM.-, see above) in connection 
with the trains. 

Forges owes its reputation to its cold chalybeate springs (441/2° 
Fahr.), first brought into notice by Anne of Austria, mother of 
Louis XIV., but now little frequented. The Etablissement, includ- 
ing a casino and a hotel, is situated in a small park, about 1 M. 
from the station and about 1 1/4 M. from Serqueux station (see above). 
A 'Summer Palace' is under construction. 

46 M. Gournay (Hotel du Nord), a town with 4199 inhab., is 
the centre of the Pays de Bray, a fertile grazing country, noted for 
it:-; butter and cheese. The fine Chur<;h of St. Hildevert, dating 
from the 11th cent, and restored in the 19th, contains some good 
wood-carving. The fountain in the Place Nationale dates from the i 
18th century. — Railway to Beauvais, see p. 35. 



to Paris, GIS0R8. 17. Route. 127 

The line now traverses the Vallee de Bray and beyond (64 M ) 
Amccourt-Talmontiers enters a hilly pastoral district, watered bv 
the Epte. ' 

^ 61 1/2 M. Gisors (Buffet; Hot. de I' Ecu-de-France, R. 2-6 pens. 
6-8 fr., good- Moderne; des Trois-PoissorksJ, a town with 4888 inhab 
situated on the Epte and two of its tributaries, was the former 
capital of the Norman Vexin. 

The Vexin (Pagus Vaucassinus) waa the mediseval name of the reeion 
extendiug along the right bank of the Seine from the Oise to beyond 
Jumieges, the N. portion below Vernon, was the Norman Vexin? a 
Fre"ch Vex?n '^'' ^ ' ^"^"'^ ^""^ ^"""'^^' *^« S. part was the 

The town is divided into two parts by a broad thoroughfare 
caUed the Rue de CappeviUe as far as the Epte and thence the Rue 
du Bourg The Rue de Paris leads from the foot of the Rue du Bourg 
*° \r- oA^ *^^ '^**'^'' ""^ <^i'o^^-VUle (see pp. 35, 124, and below). 
-- No. 20 m the Rue du Foss^-des-Tanneurs, which runs from the 
Rue de Gappeville to the Rue de Paris, is a Timber House in the 
Renaissance style, with a richly carved facade. The Hdtel de Ville 
farther on, was formerly a convent; the fa(;ade on the other side is 
the more interesting. It contains a smaU Musee and a library 

The large Church of St. Oervais, on the left side of the Rue 
du Bourg, dates from the 13 -16th centuries. The W. portal and 
towers form an extraordinary combination of the Gothic and Renais- 
sance styles; while the N. portal, on the other hand, is a remarkable 
specimen of florid Gothic. The finely carved oaken doors (16- 
lah cent.} of both these portals should be noticed 

The iNTERiOE which has double aisles, illustrates the same technical 
erudition and bad taste. The most interesting objects are th?carvedTnd 
twisted pillars, on the S. side; theantiquestainldglassTt^e stone or7an-^^^^^ 
a Tree ot .lesse in the 1st chapel on the S. side ; a sculptured 'SLvervS 
erroneously attributed to Jean Goujon (in the 4t^ Spel) thrvaultini 
S tratV'n? V' "'?'^ and side-chapels, the balustraSergaUery Tn t"| 
b. transept; the arcading at the end of the S. aisle; 12 ancient nainted 
pane s behind the high-altar; the reliefs in the last chapel of thf/ aisle 
and the curious capitals in that aisle. ' 

The Castle, built in the 12th cent, by Henry II. of England, oc- 
cupies the top of the hill on which the town is buHt. Little of this 
once strong fortress now remains except its outer ramparts, which 
are protected by a moat and 12 round towers. The decagonal donion 
rising on an artificial moundin the centre, dates from the 12th century' 
1 he large Tour duPrisonnier', near the donjon, contains a dungeon,' 
tht walls of which have been curiously carved with a nail by some 
whilom captive. On this side is also a smaU court-yard, between 
a large round tower and a square tower 

^s.ia with\r:roi?'te'Jne factiries^'-^^ l^A V^/rrK^Ts^eraVreT 

ha^eau "''^15^ T'^'^' *" 'T'l' ""'^ *«^° "° *^« ^-^«' wifh I Tsth cea .• 
^,7.t; 1, Vr . ^- ^(i^ssay-l^a-Ecouis. Ecouis, 3Uz M to the W has a 

L7et''( V?rT'e«'r m' '" T' ,V"'f "™ ^"'"' *= ^"'^" '« '■" 
«y» 11 /. II.), see p. 133. _ From ihe sUtioii .>f (20 M.) Uinaqueniu- 



128 Route 18. ROUEN. Practical 

Lyons a diligence i>lie3 to (4Vv: M.) Lyons-la- Forei (lacorne; Grand-Cerf), 
pleasantly situated in the centre of the FOret de Lyons (3S5 sq. M.). The 
line now descends the valley of the Audelle. — 25 M. Radeppnt^ with a 
ruined castle and a chateau of the 18th century. — 337^ M. Poni-de-V Arche^ 
see p. 122. 

From Gisors to Beauvais, see p. 35; to Vernon, see p. 12a. 

631/2 M- Trie- Chateau , a village with a ruined castle and a 
Gothic church containing some good sculpture. 

661/2 M. Chaumont-en-Vexin (Hot. St. Nicolas) is situated on 
the slopes of a hill, on which the French kings built a castle (now 
almost wholly destroyed) to aid them in their straggles with the 1 
English for the possession of Normandy. The village has a pretty 
church of the 15-1 6th centuries. 

As the train ascends to (70 M.) Liancourt- St- Pierre we have an 
extensive view to the left. 741/2 M. Chars, junction for Magny-en- 
Vexin (Grand Cerf), an industrial village, 8 M. to the W., with an 
interesting Renaissance church. 

861/2 M. Pontoise (Hot. de la Qare; du Grand-Cerf; da Soleil 
d'Or), a" town with 8492inhab., picturesquely situated on a height 
on the right hank of the Oise. The town dates from the days of 
the Romans, and from an early period played a somewhat import- 
ant part in French history, owing to its position as capital of the 
French Vexin (p. 127j and its proximity to Paris. It was frequently 
involved in the wars of the kings of France with the kings of Eng- 
land and the dukes of Normandy, and also in the civil struggles of 
later date. The only remains of its fortifications are the walls of the 
ancient chateau, which protected the town on the side next the river. ^ 
For farther details, see Baedekers Paris. — Railway to Creil via 
Beaumont, see p. 32. 

Fine view to the left. We cross the Oise. — 871/2 M. Eragny- 
Neuville. Beyond (90 M.) Conflans-Fin-d'Oise we cross the Seine, 
near its confluence with the Oise. To the right diverges the railway 
to Rouen. 

From (901/2 M.) Acheres to (IO41/2 M.) Paris, see p. 125. 

18. Kouen. 

stations. Gare de V Quest Rive Droite or de la Rue Verte(V\. C, 1), the 
chief station (buffet), for all trains to Le Havre and Dieppe; Gare de VOuett 
Rive Gauche or de St. Sever (PI. D, K, 5; buffet); Gare du Nord (PI. F, G, 2), 
for Amiens (p. 31); Gare d'OrUans (PI. C, D, 5), Place Carnot, for Elbeuf, 
Dreux. etc. (p. 139), and for Serquignj' (p. 167). „„ „ . . - 

Hotels. Hot. de la Poste (PI. f ; C, 2), Rue .Teanne-d'Arc 72, R. trom 4, 
d(5i 2V2, I>. 3V2, pens, from U fr., well spoken of; Hot. de Paris (PL d; 
D, 4), Quai de Paris 50, R. from 4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 12 fr. good; 1 
Hotel d'Angleteukk (PI. a; C, D, 3, 4), Cours Boieldieu 6, R- from 0, ' 
dei 41/2, D. 5V2-6V2, pens, from 12 fr. ; HoT. d'Albion (PL b ; C, 4), Quai 
de la Bourse 16, R. from 4, B. IV2, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. ; Hot. 
de France (PI. e; D, 2), Rue des Carmes 99, R. from 4, dej. d, D. 6, 
pens, from 11 fr. , very fair; Hot. du Nord (PL c; C, 3), Rue de la 
Grosse-Horloge 91, R. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 10 fr., well spoken 
of. — Hot. du Chkmin- uk-Fkr- DE-DiiiiTh: (PL k; C, 1), Rue \ erte >4A 



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^'otes. ROUEN. 18. Route. 129 

opposite the Gare de la Rive Droite, R. from 2V2, B. l'/4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ^ 
Hot. Victokia (PI. j; C, 1), Rue Vertc 10. — Hot. dr Normandie (PI. g; 
D, 3), Rue du Bee 9-13, R. from 2, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens, from 
71/2 fr., good ; The Clake.vdon Hotel (English), Rue de la Vicomt^ 3 (PL C 
3, 4), R. from 2, B. 1, ddj. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 8 fr. ; Hot. de Rouen 
KT DD Commerce (PI. i; D, 3), Rue du Bee 19-23. pens. 7 fr. ; Hot. Lisieox 
(PI. h; D, 3), Rue de la Savonnerie 4; Hot. Univers, Rue St. Roman 8 
R. 3-4 fr. — On the left bank: Hot. Moderne (PI. 1; D. 4) Place La 
Fayette, near the Gare de I'Ouest. — Pension Lemercier, Rue'-Bcffroi l'^ 
6-Bfr. •, Afme. Belter^ Rue Decamps 8. ^ ■> 

Restaurants, at the hotels. Also, "Restaurant de la CatMdrale Rue des 
CarmesS, dej. 27-2, l).3V2fr.; A la Porte-de-Paris, Quai de Paris 34 A€\ 2 
D. 2V2 fr. : Restaurant de Paris, Rue de ia Grosse-Horloge 95, dej. 1V2,'d. 13/4- 

2 fr. ; .4 la Cour-Mariin, Rue Grand-Pont 10 and 14, same charges! 

Cafes (those on the quays most frequented), Victor, at the theatre 
(concerts on summer evenintrs), with restaurant; de la Bourse Cours 
Boieldieu 5, with restaurant (dej, 11/2-3, D. l3/4-3fr.); Iloudavd, Uuai de 
Pans 58; du Commerce, Qnai de Paris and Place de la Republi(|ue: des Pastes 
Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 43. — Brasserie deVOpdra, Rue des Charrettes, behind the 
theatre, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. (band); Brasserie Paul, Rue Grand Pont 77 (band)- 
Brasserie de V Epoque, Rue Guillaume-le-Conquerant 11 (PI. C, 2 3) • Brasserie 
du Vingti^me-SiMe, Place La Fayette, at the Hot. Modern e (see above). 

Cabs. Per drive IV2 fr., per hour 2 fr. ; at night (12-6 a. m ) 2V-2 or 

3 fr. — Each trunk 20 c. t. v ^, n 

Electric Tramways : two systems. The first (head office at the Pont 
Corneille) comprises ten lines. 1. From the Gare du Nord (PI F 2) to 
Maromme (see PI. A, 3; p. 122), with a continuation to Notre- Dame-de-Bonde- 
ville; 2. From the Quai Oaston-Bonlet (PI. B, 3) to Darnital (see PI G 1- 
p. 31); 3. From the Hdiel de Ville (PI. D, 2) to the station of Sotteville (see 
PI. I>, 5; p. 122) and to .bV. Etienne-du-Rouvray (p. 122); 4 From the Place 
Beauvoisine (PI. D, 1) to the Jardin des Plantes (see PI. C, 1), 5 ; p. 134) • 5 From 
the Place Beauvoisine to the Chartreux (see PI. D, 5) ; G. From the Oare de 
la RueVerte (PI. C, 1) to Petit- Quevilly (see PI. C, 5; p. 140); 7. From the Font 
Cornedle (I'l. D, 4; p. 133) to the Oare de la Rue Verte and to the Champ des 
Otseaux (see PI. C, 1) ; 8. From the Church of St. Sever (see PI D 5) to the 
Gare de la Rue Verte (PI. C, 1); 9. From the Barrih-e du Havre (see PI A 3) 
to the Roiite de Lyons-la- Foret (PI. G, 3); 10. Circular line, from the Pont 
Corneille to Pont Corneille, via the quays and the boulevards. — The second 
system (head office at the Pont Boieldieu) comprises five lines- 12 3 From 
the Quai de la Bourse (PI. C, 3) to Amfreville-la- Mi-Voie (see PI 'g 5) to 
Bapeaume (see PI. A, 2), and to Bihorel via the Rue Louis-Bouilhet- 4' From 
the Place Garnot (PI. D, 4) to the Bassin aux Bois (see PI. A, 4) via the Rue 
Leon-Maletra; 5. From the Place du Boulingrin to the Cimetiere du Nord 
Vr^^ IR' ' ^'- -^^'^^ ^^^^ '^ divided into sections; fares (1st and 2nd cl ) 
15 and 10 c. within the town, 10 and 5, or 15 and 10 outside. The halting- 
places arc marked by white posts. — Tramway to Bonsecours, see p. 139. 

Motor Omnibus to Le Boisguillaume and Isnecuville, 2V2 and 5 M to the 
N. — Omnibus to Duclair (p. 139), 127^ M. to the W. 

D. 5*®,^°l^*?**^■ '^^ ^^ Bouille (p. 139) in IV2 hr., from the Pont Boieldieu 

U. U,4), 5 times daily (7 times on Sun. and holidays) in summer; fares 80 c 

tO c, returning by rail from La Londe or La Bouiile-Moulineaux (p 140) or 

vice versa, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. (omnibus to station e.xtra). Stations, 

see p. 140. — To Le Havre, see p. 139.— A time-table (horaire) of the steamers 

may be procured gratis at the toll-house of the Pont Boieldieu. 

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue .Teanne-d Arc 45 (PI. C, 2) 

ft^ '^<ifi'''s^'rrJI*^^K' '*'■' ^^'* ^^}- ^' 3, 4), Quai de la Bourse (adm. 
60 C--5V-2 fr) ; ThMtre Fran^ais (PI. C, 3), Vieux Marche (1/2-5 fr.), performances 
from ()ct. to April ; Alhambra (PI. E, 3), Place de la R^publiqae (i/->-3i/2 fr )- 
FohesBergire (PI. E, 4), He Lacroix (1/-2-3 fr.). Wi o /j ir.;. 

Baths. Bains de It Bourse, Rue Rationale 4 ; Corneille, Boul. Cauchoise 23; 
de I /le Larroix, at .the Pont Corneille; Bains- Doirches, Rue du Pre 63. 

HAKDiiiCKii'r. Northern Fr.mce. 5th Edit. 9 



Z 



130 Route //?. ROUEN. History. 

Booksellers. Langloit^ Rue Thiers 20; Lestringanl, Schneider. Rue Jeanne 
d Arc 11 and 26. 

British Consul, C. B. C. Clippei'ton, Quai du Havre llbis. — American Con- 
sul, Oscar Malmros, Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 83 ; Vice-Consul, E. M. J. Dellepimte. 

English Church. All Saints fl'l. K, 4), He Lacroix, Rue Centrale 38; 
services on Sun. at 10.30 and 3.30. Chaplain. Rev. F. S. Sanson^ 2 Place 
Carnot. — Wesleyan Churchy at the corner of the Rue Grand-Pont and the 
Rue Madeleine; services on Sun. at 11 and 6.30. 

Rouen, formerly the capital of Normandy, now that of the de- 
partment of the Seine-In ferieure, and the seat of an archbishop, 
with! 18,459 inhab., is a very important cotton-manufacturing place. 
It is the richest of French cities in mediaeval architecture, thougli 
the construction within the last forty years of handsome streets like 
those of Paris has swept away a large number of the quaint old 
houses, that abounded in the former frooked and picturesque but not 
very healthy streets. The old walls of the town, which bade defiance 
to Henry V. of England in 1415 and to Henri IV of France in 1592, 
have been converted into boulevards planted with trees. 

Rouen is the Celtic liotomagus, chief town of the Veliocassi. Under 
Augustus it was the capital of Gallia Lugdunensis Secunda, and under 
Rollo the Northman it became the centre of the Duchy of Normandy 
(p. 118). Its bishopric was established in 260. The last Duke of Normandy 
was King John of England, who murdered his nephew, Arthur of Brit- 
tany, in the castle of Rouen, and was dispossessed by Philip Augustus in 
1204. Rouen was retaken by the English in 1419, and retained until 1449. 
In 1431 it was the scene of the condemnation and burning of Joan of Arc 
(see p. 134). The town suffered severely in the later religious wars; 
Catholics and Calvinists alternately held the upper hand and rivalled each 
other in cruelty. In 1592 the townsmen successfully resisted Henri IV; 
but they opened their gates to him four years later, after he had abjured 
Protestantism. The Revocation of the Edict of Nantes inflicted a severe, 
though temporary, blow on the prosperity of Rouen. — -Among the famous 
natives of this town are Pierre Corneille (1606-84), his brother Thomas (1625- 
1709), La Salle fl643-87), the explorer of North America, Jouvenet (1644- 
mi). Font(melle (1657-1757), Giricault (1791-1824). Boieldieu (1775-1834), and 
O. Flaubert iiS2i-80). — Comp. T.A.Cook, TheStory of Rouen (London; 1899). 

The chief thoroughfare of Rouen is the handsome Rue Jeanne 
d'Arc (PI, G, 1-4), which runs from the Rue Verte (Gare de la Rive 
Droite, p. 128) to the Quai de la Bourse (p. 134). At its N. end, 
where it is intersected by the boulevards, is a bronze statue, by 
Lefeuvre, of Armand Carrel (1800-36), the publicist. 

Beside the railway station is the church of St. Romain (PI. C, 1; 
17-18th cent.), with a richly decorated interior and a modern tower. 

To the left of the Rue Jeanne-d'Arc is the Tour de Jeanne d'Arc 
(PI. C, 1), the donjon of a castle built by Philip Augustus in 1207. 
It contains a small museum with objects relating to Joan of Arc 
(entr. Rue Bouvreuil). It is uncertain whether the heroine was 
imprisoned in this tower or in one of those pulled down in 1809. 

In the Rue St. Patrice, to the right of the Rue Jeanne-d'Arc, is 
the Gothic church of St. Patrice (PI. C, 2; 16th cent.), containing 
*8tained Glass dating from 1538-1626, little inferior to that in 
St.Vincent(p.l34). The allegorical window at the end of the N. aisle, 
attributed to J. Cousin, is considered the best. — On the K. side of 



Cathedral. ROUEN. w. Route. 131 

the Jardin Solferino (PL C, 2), farther down the Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 
is the Mus^e des Beaux-Arts (p. 135). ' 

The *Palai8 de Justice (PI. C, D, 2, 3), in the Rue aux Juifs, 
built by the architects Roger Ango and RouUand Leroux M in the 
iate-Gothic style, was erected in the 15-16th cent, for the Echiquier 
de Normandie, the supreme tribunal (Parlement) of the province 
The central part of the edifice, with a very richly ornamented facade 
and the projecting wings form an entrance- court, enclosed by a railing' 

, ^r^^oni"^^ ^^ ancient, with the exception of the staircase at the 
angle (lyUdJ and was used as a model for the rebuilding of the 
right wing in 1844-62. The facade towards the Place Verdrel dates 
trom imo. The assizes are now held in this building. 
*,-,« i^^P.',^«- The courts are open to the public when in session : at other 
hmes visitors apply to the concierge, who lives in tHe right wing (fee) 
the SJ^P. '■'''"' ^'^^ ^L"'"';* ^°"^^^y modern. The leffwing contains 
^Uo^ffJ * Procureurs or des Pas-Ferdus, a spacious hall with a high- 

fht ^ -^f '-^"."^"^ ''^- ""^^'J' ^^^^^^'i ^" 1^99 and restored in 1876 On 
the N. side IS the ancient judicial bench, erected here in 1508, consisting 

Wumphant) bv^D ^^"^ ('^^'^^^^ ^f it«d fi,st) has a ceiling- painting (Justice 

theTnsn w/. i?* I- ''^^^- ~.l" *^^ ^^"*^*^ PO'-ti«° visitors are shown 
the small Salle de la Tour reserved for the king when attending the meetines 
of the parlement, and the Salle des Assises, the former meeting-haU which 
has a fine cassetted ceiling in carved wood (1509; restored in I860)! 

Behind the Palais de Justice, Rue St. L6 40, is the Hotel des 
Societes Savantes (1717), containing a Commercial Museum (open 
daily, except Sun. and hoUdays, 9-6). 

Returning to the Rue Jeanne-d'Arc, we descend it to the first 
street on the left, which brings us to the *Tour de la Qrosse-Horloge 
or Belfry (PI. C, 3), erected in 1389 and restored in 1892 The 
clock which has two large sculptured dials, is placed on a kind of 
i'orr/i dating from 1527. In the basement of the tower is a fountain 
with figures of Alpheus and Arethusa, and beneath the porch are 
bas-reliefs representing the Good Shepherd. The Rue Thouret, to 

J?Lv ' ^^°'^^ *^^ ^^'^®'' ^^^^« past the former Hotel de Ville 
(Ibth cent) to the Palais de Justice. - Opposite the end of the 
Kue de la Grosse-Horloge rises the 

GntW^^.'fl'*^''''M^°''"'"/^'^^' (P1.D,3), one of the grandest 
Gothic edifices in Normandy, although remarkably unsymmetrical 

Tv,^ *?.• . .^r'nn'S^^ P^'*' ^^*® ^^°'" 1202-20 (transept of 1280) 

in t.^'^'t ^^?^^-^^' ^"'^^^ restoration) is profusely decorated 

n the florid style ; m the tympanum of the principal portal is a fine 

Tree of Jesse (1624) The two unfinished towers of «ie facade are 

tffr% f?'-^\*- . ?' ?°^' ^^ ^^"^^^' *^« ^«^*'«^ a^d more beau- 
tiiu , 2,)2 ft. m height, derives its name from having been erected 
with the ruoney paid for indulgences to eat butter during Lent 
ot th« v''/^! ^''''^'■^o^^i-' is24«^ft. high; with the exception 

',Vl ^^n T'^' ^^ ^**'' ^'"°^ *^« 1*^*^^ ^«»t' ^"^1 is thus the 
eldest part ol the whole building. The beautif.il Central Tower, 

9* 



182 Route 18. ROUEN. Cathedral. 

over the transept, Is surmounted by an incongruous iron spire (since 
a lire in 1822), which reaches the height of 486 ft. 

The two side-portals, begun in 1280 and linished early in the 
14th cent,, are of great interest, especially that on the N., called 
the *FortaU des Libraires from the book-stalls that once occupied 
the court. The sculptures on the tympanum (unfinished) represent 
the Resurrection and the Last Judgment, those on the archivolt, 
saints and angels, the others, grotesque subjects. The S. portal, 
known as the Porlail de La Calende, is said to owe its name to the | 
'Calende', an imaginary animal regarded as a symbol of Christ, to 
whom the portal is dedicated. The sculptures above the entrance 
represent scenes from the Passion ; the others correspond to those i 
of the N. portal. 

The Interior of the church (446 ft. in length; transept 169 ft. in length; 
nave and aisles 1G6 ft. in width ; 92 ft. in height) is in the early-Pointed 
style, and possesses three fine rose-windows in the nave and transepts. 
The choir has double aisles, and the transepts are divided into luiddle 
and side aisles by columns and arches of the same design as those in the 
nave. The axis of the church slopes a little towards the E. end. "Above 
the pillars and arches of the nave runs another line of both in place of 
a triforium; above this again are two galleries one above the other; and 
higher yet. and crowning all, is seen the clerestory with its windows, so 
that there are five horizontal divisions in the walls of the nave, which 
lius no parallel in England.' (Winkler's 'French Cathedrals'). Part of the 
stained glass dates from the 13th century. The first chapel on the right, 
in the Tour de Beurre, contains a large altar-piece, representing the Oru- ^ 
cifixion and the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, and also several monuments ot 
the 13th and 14th centuries. The last chapel on the S. side of the nave 
contains the tomb of Rollo (d. 927), first Duke of Normandy, and the cor- 
responding chapel on the N. side that of his son William Longue-Ep6e-i 
(d. 943); both tombs date from the 13th century. From the N. transept 
a beautiful Gothic staircase (1477-79), with open tracery, ascends to the 
chapter-library (p. 183). , ■,. i- 

The stalls in the Choir were executed in 1457-69, under the direction 
of Philippot Viart, the sculptor. The iron screens of the chapels are 
closed except during service (apply to the sacristan; fee). The stained glass 
in the windows of the ambulatory dates from the 13th century. In the 
S. ambulatory is an ancient mutilated figure in limestone, 7 ft. in height, 
oi Richard Coeur-de-Lion (d. 1199), discovered in 1838; his heart is interred 
below. Its original resting-place in the choir is indicated by a small 
marble tablet. In the N. ambulatory is a corresponding (modern) figure 
of Richard^s elder brother, Henri/ Curtmantle (d. 1183), who also is buried in 
the choir. Nearly opposite the latter is the tomb of Bishop Maurille (d. lidO), , 
who rebuilt the church. 

The beautiful "Lady Chapel contains several magnificent monuments. 
The Gothic chapel-like tomb to the left on entering is that of Duke Pierre II. 
de Briz4 (d. 1465), seneschal of Normandy. Adjoining is the monument 
of his grandson, Louis de Brezi (d. 1531), also seneschal of Normandy, erected 
by his widow, the well-known Diana of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of He^ri 11, 
and attributed to Jean Cousin and Jean Ooujon. — Farther on is the Monu- 
ment of Cardinal de Cray (d. 1844), erected in 1857. — The most imposing 
of all is the magnificent —Monument of Cardinal Georges d'Ambotse (d. IDIU), 
the powerful minister of Louis XII., and his nephew, who also was a 
cardinal, by Roulland Leroux, erected in 1520-25, but modified after 1041; 
when the second kneeling statue was added. In the centre are kneelmg 
statues of the cardinals, and behind them a bas-relief of St. George ana 
the dragon and statues of Christ, the Virgin, and six saints. The six star 
tuettes below represent tlie virtues, tliose al)ove Apostles, Prophets, ana| 



St. Madou. ROUEN. is. Route, 133 

Prophetesses. The whole is remarkable for its ex(iuisite finish and is 
ranked among the chefs-d'oeuvre of the Renaissance in France. — The altar- 
piece, an Adoration of the Shepherds, is by Phil, de Champaigne 

The Chapter Library (comp. p. 132) contains the Treasury of the cath- 
edral (no adm.). The objects of interest here include the leaden box 
found in 1840 which contained the heart of Richard Coeur-de-Lion Flemish 
and Aubusson tapestry, reliquaries including the 'fierte de St. Romain' fsee 
below), monstrances, u portrait of Card. York, the last of the Stuarts, etc. 
• ^'«'f"^ l^^y ^scend to the top of the spire on applying to the con- 
cierge at thePortail des Libraires (2 fr. for 1-4 pers.; 50 c. each additional 
P 5^Yo'n^^^ ^^®P^ *° ^^^ platform, whence the view is already very fine 
and 432 more thence to the lantern. ' 

Opposite the main entrance of the cathedral is a handsome build- 
ing of the ICth cent., by RouUand Leroux, known as the Bureau des 
Finances, now containing the Museum of Industrial Design (open 
daily 10-6, except Sun. and hoUdays). The old Cour des Comptes 
(Ibth cent.}, to the left of the main portal, is now surrounded by 
modern buildings. 

The extensive pile immediately behind the cathedral is the Arch- 
bishop's Palace (partly 15th cent.). — Crossing the line de la Re- 
publique. we reach the church of — 

*St. Maclou (PI. E, 3), a very rich example of the florid Gothic 
style, begun after 1437 by Pierre Robin and consecrated in 1621. The 
modern spire above the crossing, completed in 1868, is 289 ft. high. 
'Ihe W. Portal, a very elaborate piece of work, has a pentagonal 
porch. The exquisitely carved reliefs on the wooden *Doors are 
ascribed to Jean Ooujon; and in the Last Judgment of the tym- 
panum bas-relief Ruskin finds a 'fearful grotesqueness' worthy 
of the united powers of Orcagna and Hogarth. The chief points of 
rf-^/^on" *^® interior are the Gothic staircase leading to the organ 
(.1018-20), the stained glass (15-16th cent.), and the carvings. 
♦K 'i'l^^o.^^ ^"® Martainville, a short distance from the church, is 
i\^tAttre St. Maclou (PI E, 3; from the Latin 'atrium), an ancient cem- 
etery enclosed with arcades (lo26-1640) now converted into school-buildings. 
U!i tiie pillars still linger some sculptured fragments of a Dance of Death. . 
We now return to the Rue de la Re'publique and descend it to 
the left The Rue des Halles, on the right, leads to the Anciennes 
Ualles (PI. D,3), where there is a curious monument of the Renais- 
sance in the shape of the Fierte St. Romain (1542), an open chapel, 
under which runs a vaulted passage. The ancient ceremony of the 
levee de la fierte', or raising of the reliquary of St. Romain by a 
condemned prisoner, who thus obtained pardon, used to be per- 
formed here every year on Ascension Day. — Passing under the 
archway of the chapel, we soon reach the quays. 

The Quays extend for I'/o M. along the banks of the Seine, here 
upwards of 300 yds. in breadth. The river is even at this distance 
trom the sea (80 M.) aflected by the tide, and a harbour of con- 
si<leiable depth and capacity has been formed at Rouen The Pont 
tornedlc, or 'Stone Bridge' (PI. I), 4), the oldest bridge in Rouen, 
passes over the lower end of the lie Lacroix, where there is a Statue 



134 Route 18. ROUEN. Hot. du Bourgtheroulde. 

of Corneille (p. 130), by David d'Angers. Farther down is the iron 
Pont Bo'ieLdieu (PI. l->, 4). Above the Pont Corneille on the Quai 
de Paris is the Porte GuUlaume-le-Lion (PI. K, 3), a relic of the old 
walls (1749), with sculptures by Claude Le Prince. The church of 
Bonsecours and the monument of Joan of Arc on the hill beyond 
are well seen from the quays. — Farther down the river is a Trans- 
porter Bridge {^Pont Transhordeur; PI. B, 4), constructed in 1899 from 
the plans of Arnodin (toll, 10 and 5 c. ; ascent of the uprights 50 c). 
On lie opposite bank lies the suburb of St. Sever, in which are the 
Oare de la Rive Gauche (p. 128; PI. D, E, 5j, the Gare dOrUans (p. 128; PI. C, 
D, 5), the Jardin des Plantes^ and a monument to Abb4 de La Salle (p. 87). 

Parallel to the Quai de la Bourse , which extends along the N. 
bank to the W. of the PontBoieldieu, stretches the Cours Bo'ieldieu, a 
favourite promenade. At one end is the Theatre des Arts (P1.D,3,4), 
and at the other a bronze Statue of Bo'ieldieu (p. 130), by Dantan the 
Younger. Adjacent are the Bourse and Tribunal de Commerce (PI. 
C, 4), an 18th cent, building, and the U6tel des Telegraphes. At the 
W. end of the Quai de la Bourse is the Douane (PL C, 4). 

We leave the quay and re-enter the town by the Rue Jeanne 
d'Arc (comp. p. 130). On the left rises the pretty little Gothic church 
of St. Vincent (PI. C, 3), built in the 16th cent., with a tower added 
in the 17th. It has double aisles, but no transept. The W. entrance, 
with its graceful porch, and the S. portal, with its fine w^ooden 
doors, should be noticed. 

The "Stained Glass (16th cent.) in the aisles and ambulatory of this 
church is the finest in Rouen. The windows at the ends of the N. aisle, 
by Engrand and' Jean le Prince^ of Beauvais, are considered the best ; they 
represent the Works of Mercy and the Glorification of the Virgin. In the 
sacristy are eight tapestries of the Renaissance and of the 17th cent, (shown 
on request). 

Farther to the N., on the same side of the street, is the handsome 
Tour St. Andre (PI. C, 3 j 1542-46), a relic of a church demolished 
in the 19th century. It stands in a small square, on one side of which 
the front of a timber-dwelling of 1520 has been re-erected. View 
from the tower, ascended by an easy staircase (always open ; fee). 

The Rue aux Ours, running to the W. from this point, leads to 
the Place de la Pucelle (PI. C, 3), with a paltry figure of Joan of Arc 
as Bellona over a fountain, by P. Slodtz (1755). 

The *H6tel du Bourgtheroulde (PI. C, 3), on the W. side 
of the Place (No. 15), erected at the close of the 15th cent., in the 
style of the Palais de Justice, is adorned with numerous reliefs, some 
of which represent the interview on the 'Field of the Cloth of Gold' 
in 1520 (p. 22). The graceful hexagonal tower is decorated with 
sculptures, and the windows also are very beautiful. The building 
is now occupied by a bank, but the court is open to the public on 
week-days (on Sun. apply to the concierge). 

A little higher up than the Place de la Pucelle is the Place du 
Vieux-Marche {V\. C, 3), where Joan of Arc was burned in 1431, 
on the spot marked by a cross on our plan. ^ 



^»^''"- ROUEN. 18. Route. 135 

R xJ^% 'ir*^,'° Which Com«7;e was born is No. 4, Rue CorneiUe, to the 
S W of the P ace (PI. B, 3); his dwelling-house, now public property is 
situated at Petit-Couronne (p. 140), 51/2 M. to the S.W. P^^peny, is 

From the N.W. corner of the Vieux March^ the Rue Cauchoise 
leads to the Place Cauchoise (PL B, 2), with a monument to Pouyer- 
Querher, minister of finance in 1871, by Guilloux (1894) 

rebuUtTn '/iflSTfi wft?-^' '' ■^*' ^^7^'' ^^^- ^' 1>' * Romanesque church 
thl p n / I^'^ *^.v '"''".^"^ ^^^ "yP* «^ t*»e 4th century. William 
(comp. p"l24). '"' P^ ^'^ *'' ^^'""^ *^^ *^^"'^^ belonged in 1087 

The Rue Thiers leads back from the Place Cauchoise to the 
Jardin Solferlno, with the Muse'e. 

The Musee-Bibliotheque (PI. C, 2), a handsome modern edi- 
fice by Sauvageot, was opened in 1888. In front of the entrance 
facing the garden are seated figures of Michel Anguier and Nic 
Poussin, and on the basement, to the right, is a medallion of Q. 
Flaubert (p. 130). The musee des Beaux-Arts is open daily from 
10 (Mon. from 12) to 4 or 5; gratis on Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 
other days 1 fr. The great staircase in the vestibule ascends to the 
ceramic collections. To the right and left on the groundfloor are 
sculpture rooms, and beyond them the collections of ancient (right) 
and modern (left) paintings. Sticks and umbrellas must be given 
up (no fee). Catalogue out of print. 

Po;7frpM*."l®** ^r^'"''** "^^ J"^ ^^^^- ^- ^'roux, Rachel ; on the right 
Pollet ElotLh- Marqueste, Cupid; on the left, Leharivel-Durocher Yonn^ 
Wll"^ Cupid; ilfamion, Chactas ; i^/a«5^o«, Nymph of Diana: righf'ze/W 
Beumter, Morning-star; Simart, Orestes; Fa««/o<, Chloe ; busts fnd calts- 
ROOM TO THE Right. Ca/fleri, ^Seated figure of P. Cor'neiHe r^ght %./- 
lonx, Dying Orpheus; Becquet, The Seine at its source; mTe mSTkeeJ. 

St anTfeft cff'th""'^'-^''^' "^'^^^i^' ^' '^- Pointer Gericault'; to the 
l^A f ?!, . "^ ^^'^ staircase are marble busts of Napoleon bv Canova 
and of the painter E. H. Langlois, by David d^Angers. ^ ' ^ ' 

n. /*^°c ^*' <^^d Masters. I. Large Room. To the left: no number 
fejroy, Susanna and the elders (1727j; 470. Pesne, Portrait of his dS?er ' 
179 i)«cr.«.r, Portrait of himself; 498'. Rigaud, Louis XY , Be Trou 5G2 
Ascension 563. Assumption; Patel, 464. Summer, 465. Spring; 518 nenms' 
Portrait of the artist and his wife;'ll3. /. B. Corkeille, Raising of Lazaru/.' 
ut T"h ^°''*'^^* «^ ^«"^^' landscape-painter of Rouen (1772) 4%' 
Mgnard, Repose on the Flight; 235. Onardi, The Villa Medici- 191* 
Fartnato, Adoration of the Magi;' 178. Janle hncq, Tavern interior • 34' 
l^rgrAem, Concert; 455. mtscher. Concert; 429. Pvan ^o^ Generosity of 
Scipio; 551. PtetroLonghi, A game of cards (1702); 422. P.Mignard Mml 
de Maintenon; 599. Vonet, Apotheosis of St. Louis. - The two SmTll 
Rooms next the garden contain portraits of Albert of Austrir and his 

T,-r^^'.^^^^ Room. To the left: *570. Velazquez P) Portrait- Aqj 

MarT"aS'v?nus^''Vfi*"^^"*^"^ ''I Z^''^^^'*' ZacUiat ' 3r8"xa^;.afc:: 
(17ti cent^ qfpM^^- ^««'-"»«j Visitation ; no number, Spanish School 
•170 /.7I 0' ^ • ^^*f. weeping; 84. Ann. Caracci, St. Francis of Assisi- 
(pledene TiZT' ^<^.*^^^*?? «f ^b« Ma,i, Baptism' of Christ, Resurrect on 
(predelleof the Ascensional Lyons; comn. p. 263)- Veronese 579 «?f Rnrr^o 

Seld'cr ^"if l^^an' 'Sio'^'^^'^fn^^^: ^^-^ Waf^S^r'; m'ra^'^^^^^^ 
nno f .if ™*?', ^^^- <^^^<*rd David. Madonna with saints and aneels 

one of the gems of the collection ; 3()3. Th. de Keyser (?), The mu "c lesf on • 

Sl:^ p"*"*' J^f-*^ °-^ *° ""^^ "^^'^^ 362. Lemonnier, Plague aTMi\an49l' 
Restout, Presentation in the Temple; 365. Lemonniir, same sub ec?;' 556 



136 



Route IS. ROUEN. Musee. 



Tilborg (?), Village-feast. — 564. De Troy, Duchesse de la Forrc; 367. Le 
Nain, "Nativity; •648. School of Fontainebleav, Dinna. bathinf.: ; ^2i. Afignard, 
Ecce Homo; *14n. L. David, Portrait of a yonn!^; woman drawing (Mme. 
Lehrun'O; 481. PoussiUy Venus and Apneas:, 664. French School., Portrait, 
supposed to be of Corneille; 490. Restout, Portrait of M. du Passet^ *284. 
Jouvenet. Death of St. Francis-, 561. Tonrnih-es, Portrait of Chancrllcr 
d'Aguesseau; 377. Le Sueur, Dream of Polyphilus. — 536. Snyders, Boar- 
hunt; 309. La Hire, Adoration of the Shepherd.'^ (1635). 

The Til. Larok Room contains several figure? of apostles, saints, etc. 
by Jouvenet (p. 130); also; '26. Belle (1674-113 1), Portrait; 558. Tourni^ret, 
Portrait of a girl; 505, 504. H. Robert, Monuments and ruins; 319. LargiWire., 
Portrait: 285. Jowenet, Portrait of himself; 310. La Hire, Nativity; 321. 
Largilli^re. Portrait of a princess of R'>han ; 165. Desportes, Stag-hunt; 312, 
La Eire, Descent from the Cross; 457. Oudry. Deer pursued by hounds ; 
no number, Boilly, Portrait of Boi'eldieu (p. 130); 816. N. Lnncret, Fathers; 
n. Robert, 503. Sea-piece, 501. Cascades of Tivoli; Tot/rxi^res, ''560. Summer, 
*559. Autumn. — T. Room to the Right : 4. Caravaggio, St. SeVastian and 
Irene; 20. Bassano. Adoration of the Shepherds; School of Botticelli. 54. 
Virgin and Child, 55. Vestals. — II. Room to the Right: 565. De Troy, 
Nunc d'miltis; 157. Descamps, Poitrait of himself; 5?6. Sante.rre, Singer; 
337. Mme. Lehrun, Portrait of Mme. Grassini. — The Gallery on the other 
side of the large moms contains ancient and modern drawings, a few fine 
crayons, nnd some paintings. — The staircases at the end of this gallery 
lead to the other wing of the building. 

Modern Pictures. — Large Room. To the left: Giricault (p. 130), 
Studies; 604. Ziem, Stamboul; 489. Renouf, The pilot; 97. Chaplin. Game 
at lotto; 107. R. Collin, Sleep; 2B9. GnUlemet, Beach at Villers (p. 155); 148. 
Driuhigny. Banks of the Oise; 495. Rihot. Alonso Cano on the scaffold; 
*147. 'DauUgny, Lock in the valley of Optevoz; 196. Flameng. Taking of 
the Bastille; no number, Binet. In tbe sun; 566. Troyon, Cattle watering; 
124. D. Court (of Rouen), Bnissy d'An;-las presiding at the Convention; 
544. Stevens. Dng.'s work; no number, Marais, At pasture; 403. Maignan, 
Homage to Clovis II.; 605. Ziem. Landscape; Phil. Rousneau, 515. The 
Cheeses, 514. Coupled dogs; 496. Riesener, Leda: 507. Rochegrosse, Andro- 
mache; 216, 214. 218, 219 (farther rn). G^ricauU, Studies; /. F. Millet, *l>or- 
trait of a naval officer; *152. E. Delacroix, .Tustice of Trajan; 115. Corot, 
Ponds of Ville-dVAvray ; no number, Lefebvre, Gri'^elda; 116. Corot, View 
of Ville-d'Avray: 10. 'Barillot, The barrier; 30. Benner, Women bathing; 
419. Merson, St- Isidore of Madrid; 606. .^^ikt??, Dutch landscape; 588. Vollon, 
The artist's monkey; =265. Jngrea, 'La Belle Zdlie' (Mme. Aymon; 1^06); 
368. Lepoitterin. Friends of the farm; 52. Boissard de Boisdenier. Episode 
on the retreat from Moscow; no number, Cormon. The victors of Salamis; 
25. Bellangi. Charge of cavalry at Marengo: 5B. L. Boulanger, ^'azeppa. 
In the centre are two Sevres vases. — The three Small Rooms to the 
front contain drawings, by GSricault, and pictures, chieRy hj Az^ and 
Lottier. — Gallery adjoining the street: 370. Lepoittevin, Landscape; 223. 
Giraud, Bowls at Pont Aven (Brittany) ; no n^imher, Marais, In the meadow ; 
224. Glaize, The miserly housekeeper; no number, J. Leman, Portrait-group 
in a studio; 456. Nozal, End of tbe day; 2. Agache, Enigma; 155. Dimarest, 
The last voyage; 603. Zacharie, The woman with the pigeons; 146. Dantan. 
Quoit-players : 466. Patrois, Joan of Arc led to the stake ; 142. Daliphard 
Cof Rouen), Melancholy; 531. Sebron, Street in New York. — Small Room, 
beyond: 399 Luminais, Return from the chase; also some small pictures. 
First rioor. The first landing of the staircase frrm the vestibule- 
(p. 135) is decorated with a *Gronp of Hercules and the Lernsean Hydra, by 
P. Puget: above is a fresco ('Inter Artes et Naturam') by Puvis de Chavannes. — 
The Ceramic Collection, occupying six rooms on the first floor, consists 
mainlv of an extensive series of Rouen faience of the 17-18th centuries. 
'J'he best period of the manufacture is represented in Room 1. — Paintings. 
Room 1. Architectural drawings. — Room 2. From right to left: Diiterle, 
Landscapes with arimals; 369. Lepoitte.vin, Moonrise; no number, Flandrin, 
Fra Angelico ; 273. Jolliret, Mass?! ere of the Innocents; no number, Schnetz, 
The flood; 43. Binet, Landscape; 254. Hillemacher, Siege of Rouen in 1418. — 



f^t. Ouen. ROUEN. 18. Route. 137 

Room 3. To the right, 376. Lesrel, Gentlemen in a gambling-den ; no number 
Laugie, The wax-taper and the Madonna; 469. L. 0. Felouse, Moonlight 
scene; 80. Cabal, Lake in Italy 5 Court, 12-^. Rigolettn, 127. Gleaner: 584. 
VioUet-le-Duc, Valley of Jouy; 3. Amaury- Duval , Woman bathing: no 
anmh&T.Iiigolot, 'Ihrashing-mill. — Room 4. Sm^.li pictures. — Koom 5. 
^'o numbers, Protais, At dawn, Laposloht, Outtr harbour of Dunkirk (p. 38) 
Dawant, St. Bonaventura; I5U. De/aux, Banks of the Loire-, nn numbers,' 
Fourth, Death of Mme. Bo vary, Laurent-Dtsrousseaux, Suspects (ITbS); 328.' 
Laugie, St. Elizabeth; 125. Court, Portrait. — Room 6, called the Salon 
Marjohn Scheffer (drawings). — We return and next visit a long Gallekt : 
313. La Hire, M<ink adoring the Virgin; 19. Bassano{_1), Circumcision; 492. 
Restout, Raising of La/.arus; 524 Saint-Ygny (17th cent.), Adoration of the 
Sh.pherds;3l4. La Hire, 8t. Anne teachii g the Virgin; 525. /Sa/ftM'^»y, Ador- 
ation of the Magi; no number. Court, Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 11. Aviat, 
Charlotte Corday ; 342. Leftbvre, Death ol William the Conqueror. — Passing 
through three rooms of the ceramic collection (see p. 136), we return to 
the entrance. 

The Municipal Library (visitors admitted daily, 2-4, except 
Mod. and during Aug.), at the back of the Muse'e, contains 140,000 
vols., 500 incunabula, 4000 MSS., MS. mu3ic, autographs, engravings, 
medals and coins, and about 2000 portraits of eminent Normans. 

At the angle of the Musee adjoining the Rue Thiers is the Mon- 

: ument of Louis Bouilhet (1821-69), poet and dramatist, a fountain 

' with bust by E. Guillaume. Opposite is the desecrated Church of 

St. Laurent (PI. D, 2), of 1444-68 (recently restored), with a fine 

' tower (1490-1501). In front of the church is a statue of Gustave 

Flaubert (p. 130), by Bernstamm (1907). 

Behind St. Laurent is the church of St. Godard (PI. D, 2), dating 
from the end of the 15th century. Most of the fine stained glass is 
either modern or restored. The chapels to the right and left of the 
choir each contain a good window of the 16th century. The choir 
itself is decorated with mural paintings by Le He'naff (19th cent.). 

If the afternoon is advanced visitors should go direct from this 
church to the Museum of Antiquities (closed at 4 or 5; p. 138); other- 
wise they may follow the Rue Thiers to the Place de VH6tel-de- Ville, 

Here stands the church of **St. Ouen (PI. D, E, 2), one of the 
most beautiful Gothic churches in existence, surpassing the cath- 
edral, both in extent and in excellence of style. Most of it was built 
m 1318-39; but the W. Portal, flanked by two towers 282ft. in 
heiglit, and unfortunately a little too small, was erected in 1848-51. 
The *Tou'er over the transept, 269 ft. in height and flanked with 
igraceful turrets, is surmounted by an octagonal open-work lantern, 
terminating in a gaUery (called 'La Couronne de Normandie') which 
commands a fine prospect. The N. Facade, which is adjoined by 
the Hotel de Ville (see p. 138), has no lateral portal; but the S. 
I Portail des Marmousets (15th cent.), so caUed from the heads with 
jwhich it is adorned, deserves minute inspection. The reliefs over 
the door represent the Death and Assumption of the Virgin. Above 
this portal is a magnificent rose-window, still higher is an arcade 
with six statues, and the whole is crowned with a pediment bearing 
1 stattie of St. Ouen (d. 678), Archbishop of Rouen. 



138 Route 18. ROUEN. 



Hotel de Ville. 



Interior. The proportions of the church (449 ft. in length, 85 ft. ii 
width; transept 138ft. in length ; 108 ft. in height) are remarkably pleaS' 
ing. There are no lateral chapels off the nave. The walls appear to b( 
almost cntirtly displaced by the numerous windows, 135 in number, ali 
tilled with stained glass (mostly of the 15-16th cent.). The unusually loftj 
triforium is exceedingly beautiful. The modern rose-window in the nave 
(see p. 137) is inferior to those in the transepts. The graceful and light ellec 
produced by the interior is largely due to the absence of non-structural 
ornamentation. None of the few works of art in the church are par 
ticularly noteworthy, except, perhaps, the tombs of two abbds of St. Ouer 
in the Lady Chapel. — The verger (fee) shows the choir-chapels and pointj 
out several spots which command line views of the interior. The apsida! 
chapel contains the tomb of Alex, and Colin de Berneval, architects ol 
the church in the 10th century. The tine hammered iron railing roun<3 
the choir was executed by Nic. Flambart in 1738-47. The modern Gothic 
high-altar was designed by Sauvageot. The whole of the interior is relleciec 
in the benitier near the W. door — The visitor should not omit to ascend 
to the triforium and the outer gallery (1 fr. each pers.). 

The Hotel de Ville (PI. D, E, 2), on the N. side of the church { 
a 'building in the Italian style, was formerly the dormitory of the 
abbey of St. Ouen. It contains handsome staircases and statues oj 
Corneille and Joan of Arc in the vestibule. The council-chambej 
on the 1st floor is adorned with paintings by Baudoiiin (1896). 

In front of the edifice rises a mediocre Equestrian Statue oj\ 
Napoleon /., by Vital-Dubray (1865). At the back of St. Ouen'J 
and the Hotel de Ville is a public garden, embellished with statues 
The Chambre aiix Clercs, a Norman tower of the 11th cent., adjoins 
the church on this side, and probably formed part of an earlier church! 

A little beyond the garden is the church of *S/. Vivien (PI, E, 2), dating 
from the 14-15th cent., w^ith an Org;in-case of the I7th cent., a marbh 
altar-piece of the 18th cent., etc. In the Rue Eau-de-Robec (PI. E, F, 2> 
near by, are some interesting timber houses. 

We now ascend the Hue de la Ke'publique to the N. , passing 
the Lycee Corneille (PI. D, 1; 17-18th cent.), formerly a Jesui^ 
college, with a chapel (1610-1704) fronting the Hue Bourg-rAbbe'J 
At the top of the Rue de la Ke'publique is the large Fontaine SteJ 
Marie (PI. D, 1), by Falguiere SLiidDeperthes, with a figure of Rouen, 
seated on an antique ship and surrounded by genii and symbolical 
figures. 

To the left is an old convent, containing the *Museum of Anti- 
quities and the Museum of Natural History (PI. D, 1). 

The Antiquarian Museum (open daily, 10 to 4 or 5, except on Mon, 
and Sat.) comprises sculptures and wood - carvings of the middle ages: 
beautiful stained-glass windows and other articles from churches and sup- 
pressed monasteries; Roman mosaics and other antiquities; weapons; fine 
iron-work ; medals, etc. Among the most interesting objects are a wondeE 
"Cihorium of the 16th cent., an enamelled 'Goblet by P. Raymond, a "Chimney 
Piece in carved wood, painted and gilded (16th cent.), a large "Mosaic found 
at Lillebonne (p. 146) in 1870. another mosaic of Orpheus and the animals, etc, 

The MusfiuM d'Histoike Natukelle, the entrance to which is near the 
Rue Beauvoisine, is open daily, 10 to 4 or 5 (on Mon. from 12), adm. 
50 c., free on Sun., Thurs., and holidays. The collection of birds on the 
third floor is noteworthy. 




LK hamsp:# 



/.V/:/;iPJ,/-Aa 



K i ^ui b o u c h II r 



Banc 
d'Amfard 



S e i n 




J" miometres 1 : 2 1,< 




JZnel.>Qle« 



1 

I 



Environs. ROUEN. 18. Route. 139 

Environs op Rouen. 

Fkom Houen to B0N8KCOUB8. — 1. By the Electric Tra?nway lo Mesnil- 
J snard (blue and white cars), leaving the Quai de Paris, a little above 
tlif Pont Corneille (PI. E, 4), every 10-20 min. and reaching Bonsecours in 
]!')-'20 min. ; fares 40 or 30 c, return 50 or 25 c 2. By the Tramway to Amfre- 
ville (see p. 129; blue disk with white stripes) and the Funicular liailway 
(0 Eauplet: tramway (15 or 10 c.) from the Gare d Orleans (PI. D, 4) aloug 
the Quai de Paris and the Route d'Eauplet to the station of the funicular 
railway (ascent or descent every 1/4 lir. in 5 min., fare 25 c). — There are 
several caf^s and restaurants ^ at Bonsecours: Casino, near the funicular 
railway, ddj. 2V4, D. 23/4fr. ; A Ma Campagne, Route de Paris 76, near the 
station of the Mesnil-Esnard tramway, dej. I1/2, D. 1^/4 fr. 

Bonsecours, situated on a hill on the right bank of the Seine, 
2M. above Rouen, is a favourite resort for the sake of the view, the 
church, and the monuDient to Joan of Arc. 

The Church of Bonsecours, a pilgrim-resort, built in 1840-42 
in the pointed style of the 13th cent., is gorgeously decorated in the 
interior. The carved wooden pulpit, the gilded bronze altar, the 
choir-stalls, and pavement are noteworthy. 

The Monument to Joan op Arc, erected in 1892 (adm. 25 c), 
consists mainly of three elegant little Renaissance buildings, by 
Lisch, connected by a platform. The principal chapel, with a dome 
66 ft. high surmounted by a St. Michael, by Thomas, encloses a 
statue of Joan of Arc, by Barrias; the other two have statues of 
SS. Catharine and Margaret (by Verlet and Pe'pin), whose voices 
are supposed to have first inspired Joan. 

The^View from the platform embraces the city, the valley of 
the Seine for many miles above and below Rouen, and in the dis- 
tance the verdant hills of Normandy. 

Canteleu, picturesquely situated on the road to Le Havre, 41/2 M. to the 
W. of Rouen, has a chateau built by Mansart. About 2 M. farther on is 
St. Martin-de-Boscherville, with the magnificent ruined Abbey of St. Oeorges- 
de-Boscherville, dating from the ll-13th centuries. The church is still in 
tolerable preservation. The chapter-house, built about 1160, was added 
to in the 17th century. 

A pleasant steamboat-excursion may he taken to La Bouille. a small 
but busy town, I2V2 M. below Rouen, see p. 140. 

From Rouen to Le Havre by the Seine, about 80 JI., steamboat every 
second day from June 1st to Sept. 30th, sometimes two days running, in 
3-7 hrs.; fare 6 fr.. 4fr.; deck-saloon or passerelle (recommended), 8fr. ; 
return-ticket available by railway in one direction and valid for three 
lays, 13 fr. 10 c, 9 fr., 7 fr. 50 c.; restaurant on hoard, dej. 4, D. 5 fr., 
incl. wine. This trip is recommended in fine weather, at least as far as 
Caudebec (p. 146) ; an extra wrap, to wear on board, is advisable. The 
iteamers start from the Pont Roieldieu (enquiry-office close hy, in the Quai 
■^f\^^ ^^"^'■^e), and passengers may embark or disembark in small boats 
1.50 c; 25 c. each for a party) on givin? previous notice, at La Bouille (see 
ibove), Duclair. Jumiiges {]y 146), Guerbuville-la-Mailleraye. Caudtbec (p. 146), 
VtUeqnierip. 146), and Quillebeuf (Tancarville; p. 146). Honfleur (p. 145) is 
10 longer called at by the steamers from Rouen. Le Havre (Quai Notre- 
Dame), see p. 140. 

From Pouen to ORLfiANs, via Elbkuf, Dredx, and Chartres, 144 M., 
.•ailway in 63/4-33/4 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 30, 17 fr. 65, 11 fr. 55 c). To Elbeuf 
i4V8 M., railway in 1/2-^4 hr. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 40, 80 c.). The trains start 



140 Route 18. ELBEUF. 

from theGare d'Orlcans (p. 128), and follow tlie left bank of the Seine, at some 
distance from the river. — 2 M. Petit-Quevilly; 31/2 IM. Grand-Quevilly . b^f-z M. 
Petit-Couronne, with Corneille's dwelling-house (comp. p. 135), now a museum 
(adm. 10-4). — 'JV'-J ^1- •/-« Bouille- MouUneaux. ihe train next traverses 
three tunnels and a viaduct, and once more skirts the left bank of the river. 

1472 xM. Elbeuf {Grand- Hotels Place de riiotel -de-Villc, dej. 21/2 fr., 
good; ildt. deVUnivers, Rue de la Barriere 55), a cloth-manufacturing town 
with 'l8,72!j inhab., on the left bank of the Seine. The churches of Si. Jean., 
near the Place de la Mairie, and St. Etimne., about 'A M. to the S.W., both 
dating from the Renaissance period, contain good stained glass of the 
16th century. The Gare d'Elbeuf-St-Aubin (p. 167) lies on the right bank 
of the Seine, about IV2 M. from the, Gare d'Elbeuf-Ville (for Rouen, 
Chartres, and Orleans), on the opposite bank. — Branch-lines from the 
Oare St. Aubin to (01/2 M.) Oissel (p. 122) and to (572 M.) La Londe. Omnibus 
(2 fr.) to (I4V2 M.) Le Neubourg (p. 163). Motor omnibus (4 fr. 30, return 
7 fr. 60 c.) twice daily to (2 lirs.) Pont-Audemer (p. 168). 

Beyond (21 M.) Tostes the line enters the Foret de Louviers, and beyond 
(25V2 M.) St-Germain-de-Louviers the Eure is crossed. — 2B72 M. Louviers 
(Mouton d' Argent, H. from 2, D. 3 fr. •, Grand Cerf), a cloth-manufacturing 
town with 10,3U2 inhab., is situated on the Eure. The G .thic church oi Notre 
Dame has a magnificent S. portal of 1494. Branch to Si. Pierre-dit-Vauvrap, 
see p. 123. — Between Louviers and Dreux the railway follows the valley 
of the Eure, which presents no striking scenery. From (30 M.) Acquigny 
a line runs to Evreux (p. 167) ; and from (U72 M.) Pacy-sur-Eure (Lion 
d'Or) another runs to Vernon (p. 123). — 5IV2 M. Bueil is also a station on 
the line from Cherbourg to Paris (p. 169). 541/2 M. Ivry-la-Bataille, famous 
for the victory gained in 1590 by Henri IV over the League, celebrated 
by Macaulay in a stirring lay. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a 
castle and some remains of an abbey of the 11th century, — 57 M. Ezy- 
Anet (Hot. de Diane, at Anet). The famous Chateau d'Anet (open Sun. 
& Thurs. 2-5), 1 Mi to the S.E., was built in 1548-1552 for Diana of Poitiers 
bv Philibert Delorme at the command of Henri II. Only a few remains 
of the original building are preserved, including the chapel, which still 
retains some sculptures by Jean Goujon and a marble mosaic. There is also 
a second chapel built by Diana, in which she was buried, but her monu- 
ment is destroyed. — 59V2 M. Croth-Sorel. At St. Roch, on the oppositebank 
of the Eure, is the large paper-mill of the firm Firmin-Didot of Paris. — 
65 M. St. Georges- Motel. Branch to Evreux (p. Ib8). — 72 M. Dreux (Buffet), 
see p. 183. — The line now ascends the valley of the Blaise. — 97 M. 
Chartres (Buffet), see p. 211. — Traversing the level plains of the Beauce 
(p. 281), our line intersects the railway from Paris to Vendome and Tours 
(see p. 284) at (113 M.) Voves. It also crosses the Nogent-le-Rotrou and Orleans 
line (see p. 215) at (129 M.) Patay, where Joan of Are and Dunois overthrew 
the English in 1420, and which was the scene of obstinate contests 
between the French and the Bavarians in 1870. — 144 M. OrUans,^ see p. 237. 

From Rouen to Amiens, see p. 31; to and from London via Le Havre 
and Southampton, see pp. 146, 145, xiii. 



19. From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen. 

From Le Havre to Paris, 14272 M., Railway in 3V2-7V4 hrs. (fares 
25 fr. 56, 17 fr. 25, 11 fr. 25 c.); to Rouen,^ see pp. 145, 146. — From Lon- 
don (Southampton) to Le Havre, see p. xiii. 

Le Havre. —Hotels. 'Ge.-H6t. FRASCATi(Pl.a; B,4), RueduPerrey 1, 
with a terrace commanding the sea, 170 R. from 6, B. IV2, dej. 5, D. 6, 
pens, from 12, omn. I fr., of the first class. — Hot. Continental (PI. b; 
C,4), Chaussee des Etats-Unis 13, opposite the Jetce, R. from 6, B. I72, 
dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 13, omn. 1 fr. — Gr.-Hot. de Normandie (PI. e; 
C,3), Rue de Paris 106-108, lUO R. from 4, B. I72, d^j. 21/2, D. 31/2, pens. 
from 10, omn. 1 fr., good; Gr.-Hot. Moderne, Boul. de Strasbourg 81, new, 



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LE HAVRE. 19. Route. 141 

R. from 4, B. I, d(^j. or D. 3, pens, from 11 fr. 5 Hot. Tortoni fPl. g: C, 3) 
Place Gambetta 1-5, with caf^ (see below), R. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 4 pens' 
8fr. 5 i)E BoRDKADX (PI. d; C, 3), Place Gambetta 17, R. from 4, B. I'a' 
ddj. 3>/2, D. 4, pens from lU fr. ; d'Angleterre (PI. f; C, 2), Rue 
de Paris 124-126, R. from 3, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 91/2 fr • 
Terminus, Cours de la Re'publique 23, R. from 31/2, B. 1, d^j. 21/2 D s' 
pens, from 81/2 fr.; de Ku-ssie (hotel -meubl^; PI, c, C, 3), Rue de Bor- 
deaai 42, R. from 3, B. 3/^ fv. ; des Akmes-de-la-Ville-du-Havee (PI k- 
C, 4), Rue d^Kstimauville 27-29, R. from 3, B. li/*, dej. 31/2, D. ^lU pens' 
from 10, omn. 1 Ir. ; des NfiGociANxs (PI. 1; C, 3), Rue Corneille 3-5* 
R. 2V2-3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8V2-9, omn. 1/2 fr. ; de L'AMiRAUTfi 
ET DE Paris (PI. i ; C, 4), Grand-Quai, R. from 3, dej. 3, D. 31/" fr. ; Nodvel- 
Hotel, Rue de Paris 82, R. from 21/2, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 
8V2 fr. ; Parisien, opposite the station, R. from 2, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. 

Restaurants. At the above-mentioned hotels (Frascati and Tortoni the 
best); also, Hdt.-Resta^irant du Flat- d' Argent, Place Richelieu, dei U/i D 
21/4 fr. •> J- -^ 1*^ ■ 

Cafes. Tortoni (see above ; band in the evening), du T/iMtre, des Fleurt 
and others in the Place Gambetta; Frascati (see p. 140); Grand- Caf4 Inter- 
national, Cafi Quillaume-Tell, Place de rH6tel-de-Ville: Cafi de Paris 
Place Richelieu. ' 

o , Pw^^. ^° ^^? *°^°' P^^ ^"^^ 1 fr- 25 c, per hr. 2 fr. (from 12-6 a.m. 
Z & Z^/2 fr.); on the heights as far as the octroi-limits, per drive PU per hr 
2/4 fr. (at night 21/2 and 3 fr.); to Ste. Adresse (Le Carreau), per drive 
1-/4, per hr. 2V4 fr. (3 fr. at night). Trunks, 20, 30, or 50 c. 

_^ Electric Tramways. 1. From the Jeide (PI. B, C, 4) to Graville (p. 145) 
via the Rue de Paris, the l^lotel de Ville, the Rue Thiers, and the Hond-Point 
(comp. PI. G, 1). — 2. From the Jet4e to the iStation (PI. F, 2), via the Rues 
Au-.-Normand, Gusfave-Cazavan, and de Bordeaux, the Place Gambetta 
and Quai d Orleans. — 3. From the Jetie to La Hdve (comp. PI. A 1 • p 145) 
via the Rue Auguste-Normand and Boul. Maritime. - 4. From the Hotel 
de Ville (PI. C, 2) to La Heve, via the Boul. de Strasbourg and Boul. Mari- 
Sf"**- 7^ ^:^^I°°l.*^^ ^^"^ ^^'"^ ^<=o.i.p. PI. G, 1) to Ste. Adresse (comp. 
if-:.: ^nVm, *^<^„^0"" de la Republique, the Station, Boul. de Strasbourg, 
S? ^i o^ Y'".' ^"^ St. Roch, and Rue d^Etretat. - 6. From the Station 
if 1 \r !?. ^""'^'^ ^"^ BUville (comp. PI. .\, 1), via the Boul. de Strasbourg, 
Boul. Maritime. Rue Guillemard, etc. — 7. From the Grand-Quai (PI C 4) 
\o the Grands Bassins (I'l. G, 5), via the Rue de Paris, Hotel de Ville, Boul 
de Sirasbourg the Station, Rue Laffitte, etc. - 8. From the Hotel de Ville 
(PJ. O, J) to the Abattoirs and the Chantiers de la Mdditerrande (near the 
Seine), via the Rue Laffitte. - 9. From the Boul. Amiral-Mouchez (E of 
Place Amiral-Courbet; PI. G, 4) to Sanvic (comp. PI. C, I), via the Rue 
iiellot, the quays, Rues de Bordeaux, de Metz, de Montivilliers, etc —10 
Lrom the Place Thiers (PI. D, 1) to A^otre Dame (PI. C. 4), via the Rue du 
Champ-de-Foir, the Bassin de la Barre, and the Rue Faidherbe. — 11 Krom 
. «C("^* G^arafteWa (PI. C, 3) to the Cimetikre Ste. Marie (comp PI C 1- 
p. 145), via the Rue de Paris, Hotel de Ville, Boul. de Stra^bour- Rue 
de Met'/ Rue de Montivilliers, etc. - Fares: 1st cl. 15 c., 2ndcr'l0c 
within the town, 5 c. extra with 'correspondance'; outside the town, 10 c' 
or c. extra. ' 

From the Jetie (PI. C, 4) to Montivilliers (comp. PI. G, 1; p. Ii9) via 

R/n,hri- f"^'*"''/^'?!^'!' ^^'^^ ^"^'"^- R"e Jules-I.ecesne Cours de la 
R^pub.que, R.,e Demidofl, Gravijle (p. 145), and //ar/?e«r (p. 145: golf- 
course); tares 75 or 50 c, return 1 fr. 20 - r 80 c. 

Cable Railways. Funiculaire de la Cdte, from the Rue Gustave-Flau- 
^ert 55 bis (I'l D 1), to the Rue Folix-Faure 4i bis ; every 5 min "farllOc. - 
Inmcnlaire Ste. Mane, from the Rue de Normandie, near the end of the 
.ours de la Rcpub^uiue (PI. G, 1), to the Cimetiere Ste. Marie (p. 145). 
I d.v fi'^pr9 ?; ^/ron^^7r?'r^ S"'"' ^oUonneur (p. 145) twee or thrice 
\to\ iqq. v ' ^ f- ^^^ ^^f i- ^'^™ *^^ Q"^^ Notre-name to Rouen 
see p. 139) From Ibo Grand-Quai to TrouviUe {v.. 152), thrice dailv in 
>a. 3/, hr. (fares 3 fr. 25, 1 fr. 70, 90 c.) ; to Catn (p. 169),' daii;riB 3-4 hrs 



142 Route H). LF: UAVRK. Practical Notes. 

(fares 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. f)0 c., return ticket 7, 5 fr.)- From the Quai d'Anvers 
to St. Malo (p. 194 ^ returning via St. Brieuc, p. 224), weekly, in I2V2 hra. 
(fares 12V'2, 10, 8 fr., cabine de luxe 20 fr.); to Ci<erhourg (p. 158), once 
or twice a wrek, in 7-8 hrs. (fares 12, 10, 8 fr.). From the Q,uai de Ham- 
bourg to Morlaix (p. 226), every Siit., in 15 hrs (lares 25, 15, 10 fr.). — 
Steamers also from the, Grand-Quai to Southampton (London) and from the 
Bassin de lEure to New York (every Sat.), etc., see p. xiii. 

Porters ( Commissionnaires) meet the boats at the various quays ; lamding 
or embarking a trunk 10 c. ; trunk from the quay to the station, 1 fr., 
other packages 50 c. 

Omnibus to Etretat (p. 151) twice daily in 3-3V2 hrs., starting from the| 
Place du Vieux-Marche 17 & 23 (Fl. C, 4; fares o fr. 60, 2 fr. 10 c.)^! 
to St. Romain daily (fare 1 fr. 25 c). — Motor Omnibuses. From the 
Southampton steamer and from Quai d Orleans 7 to Etretat (see p. 152). 
From Quai d'Orleans 7 to Font - Audemer (p. 168), four times daily via 
Tancarville (p. 146) or St. Romain., Lillebonne (p. 146), and Fort Jdrdme (Quitle 
betif; p. 139), in 3'/2 hrs. (fare 4V4 fr., ferry extra, return ticket 9 fr.). 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI C, D, 2), Boul. de Strasbourg 108. — 
Branch Office, Rue de Paris 1. 

Baths. Sea Baths Frascati, Rue du Perrey 1, incl. costume and towel 
60 c.; ladies, 50 c, wiih costume Ifr. ; guide-baiineur 50 c.; less for sub- 
scribers. — Fresh Water Baths: Bains d' Ingouville., Rue Ernest-Renan 6; 
Bains St. Frangois, Rue du Grand-Croi-sant 3. 

Theatres. Grand- Th^dire, Place Gambetta; Thidtre- Cirque., Boul. de Stras- 
bourg 155. — CAFfi-CoNCEnT: FoUes-Berg^re (PI. B, 3), Rue Lemaitre 54. — 
Casinos. At the ffdtel Frascati: adm. 1 fr. ; subscription for the season; 
30 fr. Casino Mane-Chri.itine, at Ste. Adresse (p. 145); adm. 1 fr. 

Bankers. Basque de France (PI. C, D, 1, 2), Rue Thiers 22; Cridit 
Lyonnais, Place de THotel-de-Ville 24; Sociiti O^ndrale, Rue de la Bourse 27' 
and Place Carnot 2-4. 

British Consul -General, Harry L. Churchill. Rue Edouard-Larue 5; 
vice-consul, 0. D. Walls. — American Consul, Alphonse OauHn, Place Gam- 
betta 23; vice-consul, /. P. Beecher. — Lloyd's Agent, /. S. Roweli, Place 
Gambetta 23. 

English Church, Rue de Mexico 54 fPl. D, E, 2); services at 10.30 an<^ 
4.30. Chaplain, Ven. Whilock Pendav's, M. A.^ Rue Mafsadow 3. — Wesleyan 
Methodist Chapel., Place Gambetta 21 (PI. C, 3); servires at 11.15 and 6.30; 
ministers, Rev. A. S. Hocking and P. Ellenberger. — Mission to Seamen, Quai 
d'Orle'ans 89. 

Le Havre, formerly called Havre -de- Grace from a chapel of 
Notre-Dame-de-Grare founded "by Louis XII. in 1509, is a hand- 
some town with broad streets, hut it contains few special points 
of interest. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely 
advantageous, and, next to Marseilles, it is the most important sea- 
port in France (132,430 inhah."). The buildings and the commercial 
prosperity of the town, which is mainly derived from its ship-building, 
yards and sugar-refineries, are of very recent origin. 

The importance of Le Havre dates from the reign of Francis I., who 
fortified it in 151H and endeavoured to make it a harbour of the first rank, 
thence to carry out his naval schemes against Fngland. In 1545 he assembled 
here 176 sail, the attack of which on the Isle of "Wight was, however, 
repulsed. In 15()2 Le Havre was occupied by English troops for a short 
time. Under Richelieu and Colbert the prosperity of the town rapidly 
increased, and in 1694 the English fleet made a determined but unsuccess- 
ful attack on the new rival of English commerce. 

The Rue de Paris (PI. C, 2-4), beginning at the W. end of the 
Grand-Quai, where passengers from England disembark, and inter- 
secting the town from S. to N., is the centre of traffic. At its S. end, 



Musee. LE HAVRE. 19. Route. 143 

stands the Mus^e (PI. C, 4), built in 1845 (open on Sun. and Thurs., 
10 to 4, in winter; on Sun., Mon., Tues., & Thurs., 10-5.30, in 
summer; and on other days on application to the concierge, 3rd door 
on the left). 

On the Ground Floor are sculptures: Mathurin Moreau, The exiles; 
S(. Afarceanx, Tomb of Felix Faure (at Pere-Lachaise); Mulot, Armida; 
DUterle^ The shoot; Bourdelle., Family tragedy; Deloye^ Frdd tIc Lemaitre; 
Cfiarpentur, The improvisatore; Bonnaffi^ Terfisichore; Sanson, Pieta- 
Oadin^, Sleeping Psyche; also some busts and bas-reliefs. — The Basement 
contains a small archsx ological collection. — In the Entresol are en- 
gravings and drawings. — Staircase. Paintings: 229. Roll, Inundation at 
Toul'use in 1«78; 245. A. Yvon, Christ expelling the money - changer.« ; 
27. Renouf, Brooklyn Bridge. 

First Floor. Grand Salon, from rij^'ht to left: 22. Andrea del Sarto (?), 
Holy Family; 23. Solimena, Simon Magus; 7. Caravaggio, Portrait; 18. Guido 
Beni, St. Catiiarine; 5. Bronzino, Cosimo de' Medici; no numlier, Perugino 
St. Margaret. —No numbers, C. Maratla, Presentation in the temple, Z<impieri\ 
St. Cecilia; 16. Manfredi, The Prodigal Son; 14. Guardi, Piazza of St. Mark 
at Venice; IH. Giordano, Cato of Utica; no number, Primaticcio, Ad&m and. 
Eve; 25. Tiepolo, Sketch fur a ceiling; (i. Allori (?), Youthful goldsmith; 
no number, Manfredi, Singing lesson: 49. Van Dyrk d), St. Sebastian; no 
number. Van Balen the Elder, Return from the chase; bl. Huysmans, Land- 
scape; no number, Van Artois and Teniers, Landscape; 53, 52. A. Gryf 
the Younger, Hunting-scenes; 67. Teniers the Younger, Card-players; 55. 
Huysmans, Landscape; no number, P. Bril, Landscape with figures; 82. m', 
d'Hondecoeter, Dog and game. — 79. A. Cuyp, Little girl leading a goat • 
97-99. Van de Velde the Younger, Sea-pieces; 86. lY. Maes, Portrait of an 
admiral ; 84. Jongkind Dawn ; 155. Fragonard, Head of a vouth; no number 
Rigaud, Portrait; 128. Clouet, Portrait ; 241. Vien, Lot and his daughter-' (1747)- 
no number, Largilliire, Portrait; 146. Desportes, Game and fruit (17C6); 
181. DeLafosse, Consecration of the Virgin. — 185. LargilUere, Portrait of 
a sculptor; 132. T. Couture, Prodigal Son; 251. Lipicii, Old man reading 
a manusrri|)t; no nnmher, Guh'in, Andromache; 226 H. /."o&.r;, Conflagration 
at Rome; no numbers, T. Couture, Fool, Henner, Recumbent woman- Troyon 
238. Sheep, 239. Setting sun; 131. Covrbet, Deer shed ; 206, 205'. MirheL 
Landscapes; no number, Le Grand, Old woman of Brittany; lii2. GiricauU 
Portrait; no nunibes, Chaplin, Portrait, Giricanlt, Head . fa mastiff, Renouf 
Landscape. — No numbers, Boulangir, Resignation, J. P. Laurels, The 
interdict, Le Dlant, Capture of arms in Brittany. — Small Room at the 
other end: Pictures, drawings, faience. — Galekie Langeyin, to the left: 
Modern pictures, coins, furniture, porcelain, enamels, etc. 

Farther up the Rue de Paris, on the right, is the church of 
Notre-Dame (PI. C, 4), built in the 16th cent, in a style showing 
the transition from Gothic to Renaissance. The tower, formerly higher, 
was originally a fortified beacon. Organ-case of 1630. Modern 
stained-glass windows. 

In the Place du Vieux-Marche (PI. C, 4), to the right; a little farther 
on, IS the former Palais de Justice, now containing an important Museum 
of Natural History (open April-Sept, on Sun., Tues., & Thurs. 10-5, in winter 
Sun. & Thurs. 10-4). 

We now cross the Place Gambetta (PI. C, 3), which is bounded 
on the W. by the Grand- Theatre and on the E. by the Bassin du 
Commerce, and is embellished with statues, by David d'Angers, of 
Bernardin de St. P/crrc (1737-1814), author of 'Paul and Virginia', 
to which the reliefs refer, and Casimir Delavigne, the dramatist 
(1793-1843), both natives of Le Havre. Thence we continue to follow 
the Rue de Paris to the fine Public Gardens (military band on Thurs. 



144 Route 19. LE HAVRE. 

from 8.30 to 9.30 p.m.) in front of the Hotel de ViUe (PL C, 2), a 
noteworthy modern building in tlie Renaissance style. The hand- 
some Boulevard de Strasbourg^ which passes the Hotel de Ville, is 
nearly 1^4 M. long and traverses the town from the sea on the W. to 
the railway-station (see helow) on the E. (tramway, see p. 141). 

In this street, to the W. of the Hotel de Ville, is the Square St. Roch 
(PI. B, 2), with statues of Armida, by Mulot, and Rebecca, by Fabisch, and 
a small bronze bust of Jules Tellier (1863-89), the poet. A military band 
plays here on Sun. afternoons in summer. - At theW. end of the boulevard 
begins the N. mole of the new outer harbour (see below). The Boulevayd 
Maritime leads hence to the ris^ht to Ste. Adresse (p. 145). 

We turn to the E. (right) at the Hotel de Ville, in order to reach 
the station. In the Boulevard de Strasbourg we pass the Sous-Pre- 
fecture (PI. D, 2), on the left, fronting the Place Carnot, on the 
S. side of which is the Exchange (PL D,2, 3), a large erection 
(1878-80) in the Renaissance style, with six domes (open 9-12 and 
3-5.30). The S. facade of the Exchange faces the Place Jules-Ferry 
(PL D, 3). Farther on, to the left, is the Palais de Justice (PL E, 2), 
in a pseudo-classical style, and to the right are several Barracks. 
The Railway Station (PI. F, 2) is at the E. end of the boulevard. 

At Kue Ancelot 2bis is the Lyc^e (PI. D, 1), containing also the, Library 
(62,200 vols.; 490 MSS.), open daily 9-12, 2-5, and 8-10 (closed on Sun. & 
holidays and from Aug. 15th to Sept. 30th). 

The extensive Harbour and Docks (PL A-G, 2-5) deserve a visit. 
Apart from the outer harbours the docks have a water-area of about ? 
190 acres and about 8 M. of quays. 

The port includes the immense New Avant-Port, or outer harbour, the 
Old Avant-Fort, on the N. side of which is the Grand- Quai, and 10 Docks <] 
with 16 locks 'or sluices (comp. the Plan). A good view of the outer ^'| 
liarbours (most interesting at high tide) is obtained from the Nouvelle Jelie \ 
(PL B, 5), which is at all times a favourite promenade. To the rifiht are - 
the (ir nd-Hotel Frascati (p. 140), with a casino and bathing-e«tablishment, j 
the batterie- defending the entrance to the haibnnr, the new N. mole (see i 
below), and the cliffy of Ste. Adresse (p. U5), w^th the two lighthouses of 
La Heve (p. 145). To the S. E., beyond the busy mouth of the S^ine, ap- 
pears VilLrville (p. 154), with Honfleur (p. 145) to the left and Trouville 
and Deauville (pp. 152, 154) to the right. — The Nouvel Avant-Port (PL 
A, B, 3-5), begun in I'^i 6, is protected by a N. mole beginning at t!ie end 
of the Boulevard de Strasbourg ('■ee above) and by a S. mole which is a 
prolongation of the embmkment between the embouchure of the Seine 
and the harbour proper. — The oldest dock, and also one of the smallest, 
is the Bassin du Roi , exciivated in 1669 The lar'j;est is the "Bassin de 
VEure (PL E, F, 3, 4, 5), upwards of 70 acres in area, constructed in 1846- 
1856, where the huge Transatlantic steamers lie. The Dock Warehouses 1o , 
the N.E. of this dock cover, with their various dependencies, an area of |, 
57 acres. The Bassin de la Citadelle occupies the site of a citadel constructed ' 
by Charles IX. The Canal de Tancarville, which enters the Ba^^sin de 1 Eure i 
to the N. of the Bassin B>^llot, i^ intended to connect the S ine directly) 
with the harbour, and to enable ships to avoid the dangers of the 'harre', 
or tidal wave in the estuary. The canal, which is named from the castle I 
mentioned at p. 146, is 15 M. lone, 160 ft. wide, and 14 ft. deep. 

A good view of the town may be enjoyed from the Cdfe d'' Ingouville, 
the cable-railway to which (p. 141) is reached via the line and Place Thiers. 
Just before the Place we pass the Church of St. Michel (PL C. 1), in the 
Renaissance style, with stained glass by Duhamel-Marette. — The Rue de 
ta Cute, in which the cable-railway ends, extends to the W. to (2^ M.) 
Sle. Adresse (p. 145), by which we may descend. 



HONFLEUR. 19. Route. 145 

I The ''View is specially fine at sunset and at night when the town and 

harbour are lit up. Unfortunately, however, it is much hindered bv the 
numerous villas and garden-walls. — On the E. the Rue de la Cote ia 
fr*/^^''' , S^ ^?-^ ^ o? ^« I'^^baye ii^U M.), past the Fort de TonrneviUe and 
the Grand CimetiireSie. Mane, whence we may descend towards the Cours 
G^ntrajTouelles' *^^ Funiculaire Ste. Marie (p. 141) or by the Rue du 

! Ste. Adresse {Hdt. Marie-Christine, R. & B. only : Gr.-H6t det Phares ■ Cafi- 
RestaurantPradier, on the beach), on the cliff, 27-2 M. to theN.W. of Le Havre 
IS much frequented for sea-bathing (bath with costume 50-75 c). It may be 
reached ^y tramway (No 65 P- 141), or on foot via the Boul. Maritime, be 
ginning at the W. end of the Boul. de Strasbourg (PI. A , 2) The Casino Tadm 

^^alZ'd '"/"^^f ^ '''' ^'"* °|.*^« ^^*« Q"^^'^ ^-i* Ch'ristina of Sp^n.^he 
itonJ' f gI commanding a magnificent view, may be reached in 
15-20 mm from Ste. Adresse. About halfway up is a sugarloaf monument 
to General Lefevre-Desnouettes (1773-1822), who perished by shipwreck It 
is dangerous to approach the crumbling edge of the cliffs at the top. ' 

-bROMLE Havre to Honfleub, steamer from the Grand-Quai, twice or 
thrice daily in 1/2 br. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 20, 75 c). - ^on&eur( Cheval Blanc 
fer:n?T'i^''^ ^- l?Z H ^^'^ ^V^' ^- ^ ^^ 5 ^« I>c^^pMn, Rue du DauphTo;' 
f.T^f!""^'''' AS- ^'■°"?: *^" ^^^y' P'°^- 10 fr.,' closed in winter 
CaU T fn' rH ^r'''-' ^f^ ^° *^" ^°*" ^^ ^'•^'^e- " British Vice- 
oonsul, J R. D. Charlesson; American Consular Agent, John N Bourke) 

aJnHhV^'^^.irVV^^.^"^^^-' Pi'^t^e^q^ely situated on the 'left bank 
and at the mouth of the Seine, has declined since the foundation of Le Havre 
but Its harbour has recently been enlarged and improved. Honfleur exports 
large quant ties of eggs, poultry, vegetables, and fruit to EngW.^ 

ihe station is situated near the harbour. The H6tel de Ville containinc^ 
a small Mus^e, and the Lieutenance, with a portal of the 15th cent s?and 

?rom 'ZTf^^TY^J''' '^""''"^ timber WcA of St. SLS-'datiug 
rom the end of the 15th cent., consists of two parallel naves with aisles 
It contains a good organ-loft, a painting of Christ in Gethsemf nlby ;. A.: 
iaen* and a Bearing of the Cross by Erasmus Quellin fin the nave) 
rhe Cote de Grdce to the W. of the harbour, is so named from a nil -' 
rimage-chapel much resorted to by sailors. It'commands a finniew^of 
the mouth of the Seine; and the plateau forms an agreeable and shldrd 
ZTilTt ^'■''''^ T. *^^ '?^^ *« Trouville, is a ^.«-SS, 1,?«6^ aS 
\, * nv^ ^^^^^ '•' "^"^^^y ^"d ""le frequented. - A motor-omnibus leave 

From Le Havre to Rouen. 

541/2 M. Railway in I-23/4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 40, 6 fr. 95, 4 f r 55 c) 

io^^^^'t^'^^^ ^^"T' ""^ P"'' <^^V4 M.) Gravme-Ste-HonoTine 
ld,27d inhab.), a kind of suburb of Le Havre, with its interest- 
ng Norman church of the ll-13th cent., to the left. — 3i/., M 
larfleur (Hot. des Armes), with 3118 inhab. and a golf-course' 
nee an important seaport. Its old harbour has been flUed up by 
ieposits of the Lezarde; the new harbour, about i/., M. away is 
onnected with the Canal de Tancarville (p. 144). In 1415 the town 
/as taken by Henry V. of England, to whom the foundation of the 
ne (jothic C/iwrc/i is attributed. Railway to Dieppe (see pp 149-147) 
From ii6j2yL.^BrJaute.BeuzevUle (Buffet; Railway Hotel) a line 

"""pnL^nL ' ^^T,^^^' ^'"^""P' ^*'^^^*) ^"d *°«t^«^ to Lillebonne. 
ares 1 f^ ?n1:''^lo .'''''''qw V^^'^.^^^^F^' ^1/2 M., railway in 20-35 min. 
ares 1 fr., 70 c, 40 c). - 3-/2 M. Bolbec (Hot. de Fecamp), a prettily situated 
Bakdkkeks Northern France. 5th Edit. |0 



146 Route 19. caudp:bec. 

industrial town, with 11,538 inhabitants. — Thf dnirch of (51/2 M.) Oruchet- 
h-Valassc contains some beautiful choir-stalls. The ancient abbey dates from 
the 12-17tli centuries. — 8V2 M. Lillebonne (JI6t. du Commerce; de France). 
a small town ((il80 inhal).) on the site oi Juliohona, the capital of the 
Caletes (Pays de Caux), contains a well-preserved Theatre and numerous 
other relics of Roman times. The ruined Castle belonged to William the 
Con(iueror, who here proposed to his nobles the conquest of England. — 
Motor omnibus from Lillebnnne to Le Havre (p. 140) four times daily, twice 
via (7 M.) the imposing ruined Castle of Tancurville (mainly 13th cent.), 
aituati'd on a rock rising 165 ft. above the Seine. 

191/2 M. Boibec-Nointot, 2 M. to the N. of Bolbec (see p. 145; 

omn. 72 fr-)* 

At (27 M.) Allouville-Bellefosse is a huge oak, said to be 800 years 
old, with two chapels in its hollow trunk. — 31 M. Yvetot (Hot. dei 
Victoirea; du Chemin - de - Fer , good), a manufacturing place (7138 
inhab.), the ancient counts or soi-disants kings of which are playfully 
described by Beranger. 

Motor omnibu>es from the Rue Carnot to Caudebec (see below; 4 timeg 
daily in '^ji'h.v.) and Lillebonne (^ee above; twice daily in IV2 hr. ; fare 2 fr.; 
81) c); to Cany (p. 147) thrice daily in IV4 hr. (fare 21/4 fr.). — Diligence 
from the Rue Pasteur to Caudebec^ see below. 

From (36 M.) Mottevitle railways run via St. Vaast-Bosville tc 
St. VaLery-en-Caux (p. 149; 191/2 M.), and via Cleres (121/2 M.),' 
on the line from Dieppe to Rouen (p. 122), to Monterolier-Bucln 
(26 M.), on the line from Rouen to Amiens (p. 31). 

43 M. Pavilly (Hot. de I'lmage-St-Pierre), with 3178 inhabitants] 
— 44 M.Barentin (Uot. du Grand-St-Pierre), a manufacturing towr 
with 6039 inhab., possesses a fine new Romanesque church. 

From Barentin to Caudebec, 18 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 3 fr. 
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). — About 2 M. to the S. of (12 M.) Yainville-Jumi^ges 
on a peninsula of the winding Seine, is the village of Jumieges (Bote 
de VAbbaye), a steamboat station (p. 139). The "Abbey, the majestic au. 
picturesque ruins of which rise near the village, was founded in 654 an( 
was not destroyed till 17^0 (adm. daily 11 to 5; V2 fr.). — 171/2 M. St. Wan 
drille also retains the extensive ruins of a magnificent Abbey., founded in th' 
7th cent. ; the buildings have been rented by M. M:,urice Maeterlinck, th' 
Belgian poet (adm. Mon. & Thurs.). — 18 M. Caudebec-en-Caux (H6t. d 
la Marine, R. 2-5, dg. or D. 3 fr., good; H6t. du Havre), a small town wit. 
many quaint old houses, was formerly the capital of the Pays de Caui 
and played a considerable part in the wars between the English an 
French. It was captured in 1419 by the former under Talbot an 
Warwick. The beautiful Church combines the Gothic and Renaissanc 
styles; the magnificent tower is 178 ft. high. The W. portal, the balv 
strades on the top, formed of Gothic letters, the triple floral crown of th 
spire, and the stained glass are noteworthy. Caudebec retains much 
its mediaeval quaintness. It is also a steamboat-station (p. 139); motoi 
omnibus to Yvetot and to Lillebonne, see above; diligence to 71/2 M. Yveti 
(see above) thrice daily in IV4 hr. (fare 1 fr.). — Pleasant expeditions ma 
be made to (1^/4 M.) Ste. Gertrude, with a fine 16lh cent, church, and alon 
the banks of the .Seine to VUlequier (p. 139) , a fishing-village about 3 M 
below Caudebec. 

The train quits the fertile table-land of the Pays de Caux and run 
along the viaduct of Barentin, 545 yds. in length, and 110 ft. abov 
the level of the valley. Beyond a tunnel, nearly II/2 M. in length 
it reaches (49 M.) Malaunay, where the Dieppe line diverges. FroE 
this point to (541/2 M.) Rouen and Paris, see pp. 122-126. 



> 



147 
20. From Dieppe to Le Havre and Etretat. 

Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre, 
a. From Dieppe to Le Havre. 

72 M. Railway in 41/2-51/4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 10, 8 fr 75 ^i fr 70 ,• 1 
- 10 Fecamp, 441/2 M. A 2-21/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 5, % fr. 45, 3 fr 55 c ). -"^ 
. iHeppe, see p. 119. — We follow the Rouen line until beyond 
the first tunnel (p. 122}, then cross the Scie, and proceed to theW 
passing several small stations. — 251/2 M. St. Vaast-BosvilU 
junction lor a line to Rouen via Motteville (p. 146) To St Valerv- 
en-Caux see p. 149. — 30 M. Cany (Jldt. du Commerce,- de France) 
IS a small town on the right bank of the Durdent, whence diligences 
run to VeiUettes ^ndLes Fetites- Dalles (p. 150} and a motor-omni- 
bus to Iveiot (p. 146}. - 38 M. Valmont (Hot. du Commerce: de 
brance) has an ancient feudal castle (restored in the 16th cent 1 
and a beautiful ruined Ahhey (12th cent.} with old monuments 

fPl ^^W «^'f";^- 7.^°*«1^- G^-H6t. des Bains kt de Lo.dkes 
^k q' n' V' ^^'^^•/^'^ Bams, open during the season, R. from 4, B I1/2 
de,. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8fr.; Hot. de la Plage (Pl.'c; B, 3), Rue des 




pens, from 91/2 ir., CanchV (I^T ersTi) ' Pla TMera; pen? -froS' 7^.' 
DU Gkand-Cekf, near the abbey, pens. 6 fr ^ ' 

20r^?o^t*fl';/''*^7'^^ bathing-box 75, with costume and linen 1 fr. 
2U c. ; no extra charge for services of 'guide-baigneur\ — Casino Admission 
mtu^ 357r ''t^wotr'^Ts ^-^-^--Ption per week ll,"foftnTgS 
non-subscribers) lVr2V-] ^'3 fr' "'' '''■ ^^^"«i«" *« theatre (for 

to t?:AreTcti'ch??a?e1-5'S''^- ^''^ *'^ "^^^"^ ^'' the Place Thiers 

I'f ??S r^^^t^ ^.i^^i^of ^t/^:^^-i- -'^;^- ; 

British Vice-Consul, Alex. O. B. Bax. 

Fecamp is a town with 16,737 inhab., situated in a small valley 
running inland from the sea. The S. end of the town is about li/.M 
from the little harbour at the N. extremity of the valley ' 

.f thtT'"^"^^ *^ *^® ^^^^"*^ ^^^ "»°^e is derived from Ficus Camvut 'field 

u?k ofa S\ri??n*^h''ifV'^"^*^^^^^"^«^^ "P O'^t^^ coaThVthe 
IK riJt ^'Alf '"l.^^^ch Joseph of Arimathea had placed the Precious 

lood (see p. 148). Its position on the English channel and its possession 

f a tolerable harbour gave Fecamp a certain importance in^LearWhisSrv 
f Normandy and in the wars between Kngland and France Its ancient 

enedictine abbey, founded by Duke Richard the Fearless "rout 990 is the 
•nly one of the famous monasteries of Normandy that stood to the N E of 
t tufe o?wt:is^teir°'^' ^^'^ '" '''' ^° ^^^^^^ frS^^L^g'lL^d^fte^' 
The Church or St. Etienne (PI. E, 3}, to the left of the station, 
iates from the 16th century. The S. portal is fine; the facade and 
ower are modern. 

.ii/T ^l' ^^A? ^^'^'' ^^^- ^' ^' ^3' *^« ^«"t^« Of tlie town, we 
oilow the Rue Alexandre-Legros to the abbey. The Abbey Church 

10* 



148 Route 20. FfiCAMP. 

(PI. E, F, 4), a most interesting relic dating principally from 1176- 
1226, conceals an interior of great beauty and grace under a some-, 
what unattractive exterior. The central tower (13th cent.) is, 
however, stately though simple, and on the S. side is a fine portal 
of the 12th cent., restored in 1842. 

The Interior is 418ft. long and 115ft. wide. In the Nave ia a fine 
modern carved oak pulpit. — The Choii' contains stalls of 1748 and two 
altars overshadowed by an 18th cent, canopy. The two pillars in front 
of the choir bear the remains of a rood-loft of 1500. — The 8. Transept 
contains a curious group of painted statues, representing the Death of 
the Virgin, executed by a monk in 1519. Adjacent are some smaller groups 
of figures engaged in prayer and a ciborium of the 15th century. — The 
Chapels of (he Ambulatory are embellished with handsome Renaissance 
balustrades and with arcades. In the 1st chapel to the right is the 
handsome door of the sacristy. The 3rd chapel contains a Romanesque 
frieze, formed of 16 curious bas-reliefs, representing scenes from the lives 
of Christ and the Virgin, and a 17th cent, altar-screen in carved stone. In 
the 4th and 5th chapels are tombs of abbots of Fecamp. In the 6th or Lady 
Chapel are fine stained glass of the 13-16th cent., a carved wooden altar- 
screen of the 17th cent., and some beautiful wood-carving. The 7th chapel 
has a 16th cent. door. — Behind the high-altar is a marble ciborium ot 
the 16th cent., reputed to contain some of the 'Precious Blood' (see p. 147), 
which still attracts numerous pilgrims. — The N. Transept contains a Calvary, 
a Holy Sepulchre, some carvings of scenes from the life of Christ, and 
an astronomical clock of 1667. 

The remains of the abhey, adjoining the N. side of the church, 
are now occupied by the Hotel de Ville (PI. E, F, 4), buUt in the 
17th century. The Musee Municipal in the interior, containing a gal- 
lery of pictures, is open on Sun., Mon., Thurs., & Sat, 2-6 (2-4 
in winter), on other days on application. There is also a small 
Public Library. 

No. 108 Rue The'agene-Boufart is the distillery of Benedictine 
(PI. C, 3), a well-known liqueur, first made by the Benedictine 
monks. The handsome building, with a Renaissance tower, was 
rebuilt after a fire in 1892. Visitors are admitted daily 9-11 & 
1.30-5 (2-4 in winter ; 25 c.) and are conducted by an employee 
(who expects a gratuity) to view the distillery (uninteresting), the 
handsome Salle des Abbes, approached by a fine staircase, and the; 
Musee, a small collection of sculptures, furniture, curiosities, and 
works of art. 

The Bathing Establishment is situated on the broad shingly 
beach, at some distance from the harbour. The Casino (PI. A, 3, 4) 
stands near the cliff, to the left. In front of the beach are a terrace 
and a carriage-road, and above are situated several pretty chalets. 
The adjoining roads are, however, unattractive and the surroundings 
are featureless. — The Harbour (Pl.B-F,l-3) is one of the chief 
stations in France for deep-sea fishing-boats, and it also carries onl 
trade in coal with England and in timber with the Baltic ports. . 

From FficAMP to Eteetat, IOV2 M., omnibus daily (I'A fr-), via; 
(I3/4 M.) St. Leonard and (A'/z M.) Froberville (p. 150). [ 

Beyond two tunnels we enter a wooded valley and then ascend 
to (49 M.) La Ifs (Hotel and Buffet outside the station), with a fine 



VEULES-LES-ROSES. W. Route. 149 

chateau of the 16lh century. To Etretat, see R. 20d ; to Rouen, via 
Breaut^-Beuzeville, see pp. 145, 146. — S^l/g M. OodervUle; 55 M. 
Ecrainville. — 57 M. Criquetot-l'Esneval, 6 M. from Etretat by road 
though 18 M. by rail. 

66V2 M. Montivilliers (Hot. Fontaine), an industrial town (5492 
inhab.) on the Lezarde, is connected with Le Havre by tramway 
(p. 141). It has an old Abbey Church of the 11th and 15th cent, 
and an interesting old Cemetery. — 63 M. Harfleur has another 
station on the main line to Rouen (p. 145). Thence to fTS M 1 
Le Havre (p. 140), see p. 145. 

b. From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux and Veules. 

•7^ B ^•.n^^'^^;^'' **^ ^^^ ^'^ ^^' ^«^«^y '» IV3-3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 
fP'., .;,,-'• Omnibus four times a day from the station at St. Valerv to 
(5 M.) Veules; fare 1 fr. There is also a Diligence thrice a week from 
Dieppe to Veules direct (15 M. in 3 hrs.; fare 2 fr ). — From Paris via Rouen 
and Motteville (p 146) to St Valery, 125 M., Railway in 41/4-7 hrs. (fares 
ZA IT. <u, 10 ir. 00, y ir. y5 c). 

From Dieppe to (2nl/2 M.) St. Vaast-BosvUle, where carriages 
are changed, see p. 147. Farther on the sea appears on the left. 
— 291/2 M. Neville, a large village with an interesting church. 

38V2M. St. Valery-en-Caux. — Hotels. DelaPaix, 60 R. from 3, 
pens, from 8 fr., de la Plage, 60 R. from 3, pens, from 8 fr., both closed in 
winter ; Aigle-d'Or, 40 R. from 21/2, pens. 9 fr. 60 c, des Bains, dej. 2V2 fr 
these two commercial; de France, de Paris, pens, from 7 fr. ' 

Sea-Baths. Bath and bathing-box 50 c., with costume, etc.,! fr., 'guide- 
baigneur 40c. - Casino. Admission till 6 p. m. 3/. later 1 fr.; subscrip- 

ofi'"^/^'" r^^o^^' ^"'•t^ig'it 15, month 25, season 40 fr.; for two pers., 15, 
2o, 6b, and 53 fr. ; etc. 

St. Valery-en-Caux, a town and bathing-resort with 3544 inhab., 
possesses a small harbour, in a hollow between two high cliffs! 
To the right of the station lies the old town, with a church of the 
15-16th centuries. The Cours de I'Est, opposite the station, leads 
to the Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville. Beyond the bridge, on the Quai 
du Havre, is the Maison de Henri 7 K (1540). The narrow Rue des 
Bains leads to the Casino, with its broad terrace and bathing-estab- 
lishment. The beach, as usual on this coast, has a border of shingle 
before the strip of firm sand used by the bathers. 

The omnibus -route from St. Valery to Veules passes the old 
town and crosses several pretty Uttle valleys. The chateau of 
21/2 M.) Manneville dates from the 16th century. 
^ 5 M. Veules-les-Roses. — Hotels. Gk.-H6t. des Bains et de la 
^lage (with the diligence-of/ice), closed in winter, 120 R. at 3-5, pens- 
Ju^"' ^.^^ Tourelles, 50 R. at 2-4, pens. 7-10 fr. - Sea-Baths 30 c, 
yth costume and towels 50 c, 'guide-baigneur^ 80 c. - Casino. Per dav 
.«;,^ of Qn ; ™«""\^13 fr - Diligence to (15 M.) Dieppe, see above"; 
-arii^ge 2.'>30 f r. Omnibus from the Hot. des Tourelles to (40 min • 1 f r 1 
«. i^erre-/e-Fi>«r, four times daily. • •> -f 

Veules-les-Roses, a large village in a pretty valley, is a pleasant 
ea-bathing resort, and numerous handsome villas have been built 



loO Route l>(f. VEULKTTES. 

overlooking the tiny beach, between two cliffs. A lirapid stream, 
skirted by a shady walk, runs through the village, and large quan-. 
titles of water-cresses are grown near its curious source close to the 
road to St. Valery. Veules somewhat resembles Etretat (p. 151) in 
its general characteristics, but is considerably less pretending. 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes. 
Les Petites-Dalles. 

Railway to (30 M.) Cany in P/i-^^U hrs. (fares 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 40, 2fr. 
85 c). Diligence from Cany to (6 M.) Veulettes four times daily in the 
season (fare IV4 fr-)i and also to Les Petites-Dalles (see below). — Railway 
from Paris via Rouen and Motteville (p. 146) to Cany, 122 M., in 4V4-7 Lrs. 
(fares 22 fr. 15 c, 15 fr., 9 fr. 70 c). 

From Dieppe to (30 M.) Cany, see p. 147. 

The road to Veulettes follows the picturesque valley of the 
Durdent, towards the N. l^j^M. Vittefleur; 3 M. Paluel. The river 
enters the sea by means of a canal beneath the shingle to the right of 
the bridge over which the road runs. 

6 M. Veulettes. — Hotels. Hot. de la Plage, pens, from 7 fr. ; des 
Bains, adjoining. — Sea-Baths 40 c, for subscribers to the casino 30 c, 
complete costume with 'peignoir' 60 c, 'guide-haigneur' 40 c. — Casino. 
Admission by day 30, in the evening or whole day 50 c. Subscription for 
a week 4, fortnight 71/2, month 15 fr.; for two pers. 8, 15, and 22 fr.; 
for three persons 12, 20, and 27 fr. 

Veulettes itself is a small village, situated about 1/2 M. from the 
sea, in a valley to the W. of the valley of the Durdent; but the 
bathing-establishment and the villas perched on the cliffs form a" 
jigreeable summer-resort. The shingle-strewn beach is very wide 
and is about 3/^ M. long. The environs are somewhat tame. 

Les Petites-Dalles is 5 M. to the S.W. of Veulettes, and St. Valerj 
(p. 149) is about 5 M. to the l^.E. No public conveyance to either. 

From- Cany to Les Petites-Dalles, 71/2 M., diligence thrice daily 
in the season (see the 'Indicateur'); fare IV2 fr. Les Petites-Dalles maybe 
reached also from Fecamp (see p. 147). 

Les Petites-Dalles (Or.-Hot. des Bains et de la Plage, open May 15th' 
Oct. 15th, 80 R. from 8, pens, from 7 fr. •, H6t. dei^ Pavilions-^ Ledun) \i 
a fishing-village, with a Casino and Bathing Establishment, situated at th( 
mouth of a small valley bounded by cliffs and rocks and affording various 
sheltered walks. 

The parallel valley, 1 M. to the W., is called the valley oi Les Grandet 
Dalles (Hot. de la Plage), and about IV4 M. farther on is the sea-bathing 
place of St. Pierre-en- Port (Hot. des Terrasses), 7'/2 M. from Fecamp (omn. 
see p. 147). 

d. From Dieppe to Etretat. 

58V2M. Railway in 2V4-3V3 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 30, G fr. 90, 4 fr. 50 c). - 
From Le Havre to Etretat, 32V2M. in l3/4-2V2hrs. (fares 5 fr. 95 c^, 4 fr., 2 fr 
(}0c ); by road, see p. 152. — Railway from Paris to Etretat, via Rouen aii( 
Br^aute-Beuzeville, 143 M., in 4-6V2 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 85, 17 fr. 50, 11 fr. 45 c.) 

From Dieppe to (49 M.) Les Ifs, see pp. 147, 148. The lin< 
diverges to the left from that to Fe'camp and Le Havre and run.' 
towards the "W. — b%M. Froberville-Yport, I 



ETRETAT. 20. Route. 151 

An omnibus (50 c.; carr. 3-6 fr.) plies daily in the season to (2V2 M. 
to the NW.) Yport (Hdt. clu Casino: Chicot; G. Tougard; Loisel; Luboc), 
a considerable village with a tidal h rbour, and a sea-bathing establish- 
ment resembling that of Fe'cmp. About !'/< M. to the W. is VaucoUes- 
tur Mer (H(5'. Delebarre), another small bathing-place, with Vattetot-sur-AIer 
on the cliffs above. 

55 M. Les-Loges-Vaucottes-sur- Mer, 2^/4 M. from Vaucottes- 
8ur-Mer (see above). — 56 V2 M. Bordeaux-BenouviUe. 

531/2 M. Etretat. — Hotels. *Golp Hotel & Roches-Blanches, below 
the Falaise d'Amont, at the end of the beach, 10:) R. from 5, B. IV2, dej. 5, 
D. 7 (in the restatiram dej. 6, D. 8-9). pens, from 15, omn. 1 f r. ; Hau- 
viLLE, on the beach at the end of the Rue Alphonse-Karr, open the whole 
year round, 120 R. from 5, B. IV2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, fmm 12, omn. 1/2 fr., 
English-, Blanquet, Rue de la Valette, on the beach. — Hot. de la Plage, 
Place Victor-Hugo, open the whole year round, R. from 3, B. 1 , d^j. 3, 
D. 4, pens, from 9 fr., Engish; Omont, Route du Have 6, open ihe whole 
year round, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 8 fr. ; d'Angle- 
terre, Route da Havre 35, K,. from 3, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 9 fr., 
omn. 40 c., English; de Normandie, des Deux Adgustins (open the whole 
year round), both in the Place du Marche. — Villas to let and furnished 
apartments are easily found. — Restaurant du Casino (see below), dej. 5, 
D. 6 fr., and a la carte. 

Sea-Baths. At the Casino, bath, foot-bath, and attendant 90 c, sub- 
scription for twelve baths 7 fr. 20, for twenty-five 14 fr. 40 c. ; costume 
;30, 'peignoir' 25, towel 10 c. — Warm Baths, behind the casino: bath I74- 
2'/2: dduche 2-2V2 fr. ; less for subscribers. 

Casino. Adm. in the morning 50 c., afternoon till 6 p.m. 1 fr., evening 
(theatre extra) 1 fr., whole day 2 fr. ; subscription for a week 12, fort- 
night 23, month 40, season 60 fr. ; for 2 pers. 22, 40, 65, and 95 fr. ; each 
pers. beyond two, 7, 14, 20, and 25 fr. All subscriptions are 'suspended' on 
extra occasions. Season .lune 15th-0ct. 1st. 

Golf Course (18 holeO on the Falaise d'Aval, 5 min. from the casino. 
— Lawn Tennis Club, see p. 152. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Route du Havre 25. 

Omnibus to Ficmnp (see p. 148) from the Hot. Omont. Motor Omnibus 
to Le Havre, see pp. 152, 142. 

Etretat, one of the most fashionable watering-places on the N. 
coast of France, is a small town, with 2024 inhab., situated, like 
most of its neighbours, at the foot of lofty cliffs, here 300 ft high. 
It is surrounded with pretty villas and attractive country-houses, 
but it possesses no harbour. Etretat is especially affected by artists 
and literary men, who are attracted by its picturesque and curious 
situation, but these have brought in their train enough of the fash- 
ionable world to render the cost of living here considerably higher 
than at less pretentious but equally comfortable watering-places on 
the same coast. 

The Railway Station, beyond which is the Grand-Val(seep. 152), 
is at some distance from the beach. On the way to the latter we 
pass the Church of Notre- Dam"., with a portal of the 11th cent, 
and a tower of the 13th. The Beach is protected from the sea 
by a sort of embankment of shingle ; and a terrace, with the Casino, 
has been constructed. The bathing-establishment is to the right ; 
the left part of the beach is used by the fishermen for hauling up 
their boats, and for their 'Caloges', i.e. old boats turned upside down 
and used as huts for storing nets, ete. 



152 Route 21 K ETRETAT. 

The *Cliffs at Etretat are among the most interesting on this coast. 
Both the Falaise d'Amont (to the right) and the Falaise d'Aval (to 
the left) are pien^ed by Fortes, worn by the action of the sea, and the 
same cause has produced various curious pyramidal and needle-like 
formations. 

The Falaise d'Amont is ascended by a long flight of steps , be- 
ginning on the beach. On the summit are a modern chapel and a 
semaphore. Near the latter a path, to the left, leads down to a 
short tunnel descending to the beach. 

To reach the top of the Falaise d'Aval we pass behind the Hotel 
Blanquet and follow first the Rue du Docteur-de-Miramont and 
then the telegraph-wires, finally making directly for the 'Castel 
Dubosc' (rfmts.), to the right on the summit of the cliff, above the 
Porte d'Aval. Fine view to the left of the Aiguille d'Etretat, a 
pyramid 230 ft. high, the Petit-Port, bounded by precipitous cliffs, 
and the gigantic rocky gateway called the Manneporte. Near the 
latter is a zigzag stairway descending to the beach. At low tide we 
may return by the foot of the cliffs and through the Porte d'Aval 
(see above), near which is a grotto called the 'Trou a I'Homme'. 

In the Orand-Val, the valley to the right of the railway, is the 
Passee , a promenade to which admission is gained by payment 
(lawn-tennis). Farther on are the Protestant Chapel (service in sum 
mer at 10 a.m.) and the Public Gardens. 

From Etretat to Le Havre, by Railway, see R. 20a. — By Eoad^ 
17 M., motor omnibus four times daily, twice via St. Jouin, in IVihr., 
starting from 19 Eoute du Havre, near the post-office (fare 21/2 fr., return 
ticket 4V2 fr.). — The road at first ascends for some distance. 1^/4 M. Le 
Tilleul. 3 M. La Poterie, V/i M. from Bruneval-les-Bains ( Hot. Martin). 
About 2 M. to the N.N. W. is the Cap Antifer (310 ft.), a dangerous promon- 
tory with a lighthouse, the revolving light of which is visible for 35 M. 
on an average. 5V2 M. Goubert, about I'A M. from Si. Jouin (Hotel de 
Paris), a fishing-village, resorted to by artists. 8V2 M. Cauville. The tower 
of the 13th cent, church of (12 M.) Octeville is noteworthy. I5V2M. Sanvic, 
a large village, indicating the proximity of Le Havre (tramway, see p. 141). 
On the right is Fort Ste. Adresse. The mad finally makes a long de- 
scent, passing one end oi Ste.Adt'esse (p. 145), to (17 M.) Le Havre (p. 140). 



21. Watering-Piaces in Calvados. 

a. Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Houlgate, and Cahourg. 

From Le Havre to Trouville, Steamer thrice daily in ca. V* br. (fares 
8 fr. 25, i fr. 70, 90 c). — From Trouville to Villers-sur-Mer, 7 M., Railway 
in 1/2 br. (fares 1 fr. 25, 85, 55 c.); to Houlgate, I2V2 M., in 3/4-I lir. (fares 
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c, 1 fr.); to Cahourg, 141/2 M., in l-l'A hr. (fares 2 fr. 60, 
1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 15 c). — From Rouen Trouville may be reached via Glos- 
Montfort (p. 168) and Pont-rKveque (p. 1C6); from Cherbourg and Caen 
Cahourg may be reached via Dozul^-Putot (p. 156) or via M^zidon (p. 165). — 
From Trouville to Paris via Lisieux (p. 165), I36V2M., in 31/4 hrs. (fares 
24 fr. 75, 16 fr. 75, 10 fr. 95 e. ; 'Trouville Express^ 1st cl. only, 10 fr. extra). 

Trouville. — Hotels (charges usually raised during the races). *H6t. 
DE Paris (PI. b; C, 3), 'Hot. des Roches-Noires (PI. a; C, 2), at the N.E. 
end of the town, 170 R. from 5, B. 2, dej. 6, D. 8, pens, from 15 fr. ; both 



r 




C;raTeetnnprim£par\S'a^ner*Det< 1 



TROUVILLE. 21. Route. 153 

of the first olasa and near the beach. — Hot. Bellevuk (PI c- C 3) 150 R 
frona (i, B. IV2, lUJ. 4, D. 6, pens, from m/2, omn. 1 fr. ; Gk.-Hot. d^Angle- 
TKRKE (PI. d ; 0, 3), behind the casino, R. from 5, B. V/2 dc'i 4 D 5 
pens, from 13 fr ; •Hot. du Bkas-u'Oe (F1. g ■ C, 3), 120 R. from 6, I). 5, pens! 
from 10, omn. 3/4-I fi-. _ Hot.-Restaueant du Helder, Place de I'H6tel-de- 
Ville, R. from 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.; Hot. de la Plage (PI e- C 3) 
R. from d, pens, from 7 ir., well spoken of; Beausejodk (PI h- C 4) o'uai 
Valine 14, pens, from 10 fn ; du Lodvke (PI. k; C, 3), R from 3^'pen8 
from 10 fr., TivoLi (PI. i; C, 3), R. from 21/., B.'n/;, 2ej. 3, D 4 f;.,Tue 
de la Mer; de la Jeti;:e-Pkomenade (PI. f ; D, 1), R. from 4, pens, from 12 fr • 
DU Chalet-des-Roches, behind the Hot. des Roches-Noires (Pl C 2)- Hot- 
Restaurant de Bourgogne et de la Place (PI. q ; C, 3), dei 2V2 b 31/9 fr *• 
Hot. Meurice, Rues Carnot and St. Michel (PI. C, 3), R. from 3,' pens, from 
8 fr.; DES Bains Rue des Bains 6 (PI. C, 3), pens. from7V2 fr. ; de France, 
Quai .Ioinville36, near the station. — On the Honfleur road, Touring Hotel 
R. from 3, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. — The B6tels du Helder, TivolL and 
de France are open all the year round. — Furnished Houses and Lodgings 
are easily obtained. 

Restaurants. M ih& HdteU du Helder, de la Plage, de Bourgogne, ar.d 
tne otner hotels; at the Casino; on the Fromenade Pier (de\ 3 D 4 f r ) — 
Buffet at the station. - Cafes. Be la Plage, near the pier;' Eden- Casino 
(PJ. 2, B, d; cafe-concert), also on the beach, adm. 1-5 fr. 

Sea-Baths opposite the Casino and the Hotel des Roches-Noires : bathin<^- 
boxbOc.-dfr; costume 60, 'peignoir' 30, towel 15, 'guide baigneJr' 60 c. " 
fnth/f°° ^wr'\^ -o^JI P' ^^' Admission for one day 1-3 fr. (according 
to the season , theatre 3-4 fr extra. Subscription (including adm. to theatre 
thrice a week) per week 25, fortnight 40, month 70 fr; double-ticket 45, 
?U, andllOfr. Oowc«r< every afternoon; 6«?/ on Sat. evening 

Cabs. With one horse, between 5 a.m. and 12.30 a.m., per drive I'/-, 
with luggage 2 fr.; with two horses 2 and 3 fr.; for DeauviUe 2 and ^ 
or d and 4 fr.; from the pier to the station 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 f r For 
drives in the neighb. uihood a bargain should be made. — Carriages for 
hire, Rue des Bains 55, Rue de la Cave'e 11. — Motor Cars for hire Auto- 
garage du Pont, Place du Pont; Cheringou, Rue des Bains 88; Bedel Moder>,- 
garaye, Rue de Pont-1 Eveque 104. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. 9 ; C, 3), Rue Victor-Hugo 20. 
Steamboat to Le Havre, daily during the season, in 3/^ hr., see p. 141. - 
Ferry (PI C, 4) to DeauviUe, 6 a.m.-lO p.m. (5 c; 'lO c. after 7 p.m.) 

Omnibus from the station to the town, 1/2 fr., at night 70 c or 70 
and 90 c. with 30 kilos of luggage. To HonfleJr via' Viller!ilL see 'p 15i 
infpJ!ff'""T'^'*^!' ply regularly in the season to various points o 
interest in the vicinity (consult the placards; fares 3-8 fr. according to the 
distance); office at the Fish Market (Poissonnerie) '^^^'jruiog 

Stndicat d'Initiative at the Hotel de Ville. 

Trouville-sur-Mer, pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Tou- 
jues, is one of the most frequented watering-places on the coast of 
Normandy. The season lasts from July to October and is at its height 
m August, when living here is extremely expensive. In 1830 Trou- 
(ville was a humble fishing- village with a smaU harbour; now it has 
0401 inhab., and the beach and adjacent slopes are covered with 
ttandsome villas and country-houses. 

The Railway Station (PI. C, 5) is situated on the left bank of 
the nver, between DeauviUe and Trouville. We cross a bridge to 
reach the latter. The Harbour (PI. B, C, 3-5) is much used by 
Ishing-boats and also carries on some trade in timber The church 
^£/r® i'^!.^*'^ *^® right of the harbour, Notre-Dame-des-Victoires 
yi. b; C, 4), IS a modern erection. The Fish Market (PI. 8; C, 4) 
liear the end of the quay, presents an interesting spectacle when 



154 Roule Jl. DEAUVILLE. Watering- Places ., 

1 

the fishing-boats come in. Thence the important Rue des Bains 
leads to Notre-Dame-de-Bons-Secours (PI. 5; C, 3), another small ' 
modern church, with a fine fa(^ade and a Renaissance tower. Beyond 
the fish-market rises the Hotel de Ville (PI. 4; C, 3), in the style of 
Louis XIII., to the left of which is the Place de la Cahotte (ferry 
to Deauville, see p. 153). 

The *Beach (Plage) of Trouville (PI. B, C, 2, 3), stretching from 
the harhour to the Hotel des Roches-Noires, a distance of about 2/3 M., 
is one of the finest in France and during most of the day in the 
season is thronged with holiday-makers and bathers in fashionable 
and attractive costumes. It is bordered for nearly its entire length 
by a broad paved or boarded promenade. It has been pithily de- 
scribed as the 'Summer Boulevard of Paris'. 

The Casino (PI. 1 ; C, 3), known also as the Salon^ a large edifices 
on a terrace overlooking the beach, offers all the attractions common 
to fashionable institutions of the sort (seep. 153). — At the other end 
of the beach is the Promenade Pier (PI. C, D, 1), or Jetie des Anglais; 
adm. 10 c, gratis to passengers by the steamer to Le Havre, which, 
starts here at low-tide. ' 

Deauville. — Hotels. *Gkand-Hotel (PI. 1 ; A, 5), 120 R. from 5, D. S, 
pens, from 15, omn. 2 fr. •, Gn.-HoT. de la Tekrasse (PI. m ; B, 4), 120 II. 
from 4, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr., both on the be ch; Hot. de l'Eukope 
(PI. n ; C, 5), Frasgati (PL o-, C, 5), Sporting Hotel (PI. p ; C, 5), all neais 
the station, — Houses and Famished Apartments may he obtained. — Sea 
Bathing as at Trouville. — Ferry to Trouville, see p. 153.— Golf Course, 
Avenue de Villers, 1 M. from the station. 

During a fortnijiht in August the Race Course (PI. B, C, 6) at Deauville 
is the scene of a highly fashionable race-meeting. j 

Deauville, which shares the railway-station with Trouville, may 
be reached from the right bank of the harbour either by ferry (5-10 c.) 
or by the bridge near the station. Founded in modern times as a 
sea-bathing resort, it has broad and straight streets, but the original 
plan was never carried out and the town presents the appearance of 
a half-filled canvas. The beach is distinctly inferior to the beach at 
Trouville, and at low water the tide recedes too far. The Terrasse 
skirts a number of fine houses, situated somewhat far apart. 

From the beach a tramway runs to Tourgdnlle les-Sablons (10 c.) and 
B&nerville (20 c), about halfway to Villers-suv-Mer (p. 155). 

ExcDRSioNS from Trouville and Deauville (see p. 153 and comp. the Man, 
p 13S). To the ruins of Bo'meville, Lassay, and St. Arnoult, see pp. 166, 155. 
— To the (10 M.) Chateau cTHihertot, a castle of the 17th cent., situated at 
St Andr^-d'Hiheriot. The road intersects the picturesque Forest of Touquet 
and passes (5 M.) St. Gatien and (91/2 M.) St. Benoit-d'Hdbertot. The station 
of Quetteville (p. 166) lies 2'/i M. to the N.E. of the chateau. 

From Trouville to Honfi-edr, 10 M.. motor-omnibus hourly in the 
season irom the station (50 min. •, fare 2 fr. 10 c, to Villerville 1 fr. 10 c). 
The road ascends a steep hill, passing the fine Chalet Gordier and several 
pretty villas. 13/4 M. HermequeviUe. — 31/2 M. Villerville ( Hdtel de Paris; 
des Bains; de In Plage, pens. 7-8 fr. ; Continental; des Parisiens) is a pict^ir- 
esquely-situated bathing-place of more humble pretensions than Trouville 
or Deauville. It has a small Casino. Villas and chalets to be let. — The 
road goes on to (4^/2 M.) Criqueboeuf, with its pretty ivy-covered cburel») 
beyond which the view is confined by trees. — 10 M. Honour (p. 145). , 



in Calvados. VILLERS-SUK-MKR. 21. Route. 155 

The Railway to Cabouro diverges to the right from that to 
Lisieux and Paris. On the right lies the race-course of Deauville. — 
31/2 M. Tourgeville. To the right rises Mont Canisy (330 ft.), with 
the insignificant ruins of the Chateau de Lassay and of the Church of 
St. Arnoult, an 41th cent, priory. From Tourg^ville a visit may 
be paid to the Chateau de Olatigny (16-17th cent,), which has a fine 
carved wooden fa(;ade. — 8 M. BLonville (Normandy Hotel, pens, 
from 7 fr.), a simple bathing-resort. 

7 M. VillerS-SUr-Mer. — Hotels. Des Herbages et Beaurivage, 
on the beach, R. from 4, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. •, de Paris et de la Plage, 
adjacent, M. from 41/2, pens, from 10 fr. ; du Bras-d'Ok, D. 4, pens, from 
8 fr. ; DE France, R. from 3, pens, from 8 fr., open all the year round ; do 
Grand-Balcon, pens, from 9 fr. — Sea-Baths, Vfz fr. ; bathintr-box and foot- 
bath 60, costume 50, 'peignoir' 40, towel 10 c. — Casino, adm. 1-2 fr. 

VUlers-sur-Mer is a picturesquely situated bathing-place re- 
sembling Trouville. The environs are undulating and prettily 
wooded; the beach, 1 M. from the station (omn. 50 c.), is very 
extensive and flanked by tasteful villas. — Interesting excursion to 
(3Y2 M.) Houlgate via the Desert and the Vaches Noires (see below). 

The railway now ascends a steep incline, passing the station of 
Gonneville-St- Vaast and traversing woods. 

1272 M. Houlgate. — Hotels. ^Grand- Hotel d'Hodlgate, Rue 
Baumier, of the first class, with sea-view, separated from the casino by 
a garden, 240 R. from 5, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr. ; Hot. Beauskjour, R. from 3, 
pens, from 91/2 fr., an annexe of the Grand-Hotel ; Hot. Imbert, with Hot. 
DE LA Mer as an annexe, R. from 3, pens, from 9 fr. ; Bellevue, R. 6-8, 
D. 4, pens. 10-12 fr. ; Mon-Castel, pens. 9-10 fr., open all the year round; 
DE Paris, pens. 7-8 fr. 

Sea-Baths, t fr. 45-1 fr. 60 c. Bathing-box 50-60, costume 40-50, 'peignoir' 
25-35 c, etc. — Casino. Adm. per day 1 fr., evening 1 fr. ; subscription for 
a week 15 fr., fortnight 25 fr., month 40 fr.; for 2 pers. 25, 40, <fe 65 fr. 

Houlgate. an attractive bathing-resort of recent origin, consisting 
mainly of villas with shady gardens and extending to within 1/2 M. 
of Dives- Cabourg (see below), has a fine sandy beach. It was 
formerly called Beuzeval-Houlgate, though the old village of Beuzeval 
lies some distance to the E. 

About 3 M. to the N. E. is the Desert, a chaos of rocks fallen from 
the cliffs which are known as the Vaches Noires. 

The railway now approaches the sea and passes between the 
last few houses of Houlgate and the shore. A little farther on the 
Dives enters the sea. Walkers to Cabourg cross the small harbour 
at its mouth by a ferry. — I33/4 M. Dives- Cabourg, about 3/^ M. 
from each of the places it serves. 

Dives-sur-Mer (Hot. Ouillaume-le-Conquerant, a quaint build- 
ing; de Normandie; des Voyageurs, dej. 272, D. 3 fr.) was the harbour 
from which William the Conqueror first set sail for England in 1066 
(comp. p. 12). A column on a neighbouring height commemorates 
the event; and the names of his companions, so far as known, have 
been inscribed inside the porch of the Church, which dates from the 
14th and 15th centuries. The timber Market Buildings, not far from 
the church, date in part from the 16th century. 



156 Rnule9l. CABOTJRG. Watering-Places 

Cabourg. — Hotels, *Gi:ani)-Hotel , on the l)each, adjoining tlie 
Oasino, at the end of the Avenue de la Mer, 200 R. from 10, D. 8 Ir. — 
Hot, des Ducs-ue-Nokmandik, al^o on the beach, dv.,]. 372, D. 4fr.; ou Casino, 
nu NoRD, Avenue de la Mer; des Deux-Mondes, Avenue de Trouvillo, R. 3-5, 
D. 31/2 fr. ; DE hA POSTE. 

Sea-Baths, IV2 fr. ; bathing-box alone GO c. , costume 60c., etc, — 
Casino. Adm. 1 fr. and 1 fr. extra lor the 'Salle des fetes'; subscription 
fur a week 12, fortnight 20, month 30 fr.; for 2 pers. 20, 30, and 46 fr. 

Omnibus TRAMWAY to Houlgate (60 c.) via Dives (30 c). 

Cabourg is of modern origin, at least so far as the sea-baths are 
concerned. It is laid out on a fan-shaped plan, which, however, as at 
Deauville, is far from being completed. It has several well-shaded 
avenues and a wide sandy beach. There is, of course, the usual 
huge Casino, with its Terrasse, and in the neighbourhood is a Golf 
Course (18 holes). 

Feom Dives-Cabourg to BfiNOUviLLE CCom,X«c-<«r-iI/er), 9V2M., steam 
tramway in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 35, 90 c.)- The line passes the entrance 
of Cabourg (2o, 20, 15 c.), and proceeds at some distance from the sea. — 
2'/2 M. Le Home (Grand-IMtel)^ a small watering-place with several villas. 

— Several other small stations. — 8 M. Ranville. We cross the Orne and 
a canal. — At (91/2 M.) Binouville we change cars for Caen (see below). 

The railway, quitting the sea, runs to the S. to (5 M.) Dozule- 

Putot, where it forks, one branch leading to (17V2 M.) Mezidon and 

the other to (20 M.) Caen. See pp. 165, 175. 

b. Lion-sur-Mer, Luc-sur-Mer, Langrune, St. Aubin-sur-Mer, 
and Cour seniles. 
I. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer direct. 

14 M. Railway in IV4-IV2 ^r. from the Gave de V Quest at Caen, in con- 
nection with the trains on the main line from the S. (fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 80, 
1 fr. 30 c.); or 10 M. in 30-35 min. less from the Oare St. Martin (p. 169), 
whence special trains run (comp. the Indicateur); fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 35, 95 c. 

Caen, see p. 169. After leaving the Gare de I'Ouest the train 
makes a wide circuit to the W. of the town, passing the station of 
La Maladrerie, and reaches the Gare St. Martin (buffet), where 
carriages are changed. — 6M. Couvrechef; l^/^M.. Cambes; 9Y2M. Ma- 
thieu. Before reaching the station of (12M.) Douvres-la-Delivrande 
we have a view, to the right, of its graceful tower (12th cent.), sur- 
mounted by a spire in open stone- work, flanked by turrets. — 121/2 M. 
ChapeLle-de-la-Delivrande, a hamlet with the famous pilgrimage 
church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Delivrande. The present handsome 
church, with two towers, in the style of the 13th cent., is modern. 

— 14 M. Luc-sur-Mer, see p. 157. 

II. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer via Ouistreliam. 

15 M. Steam Tramwat in IV2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 45 c). 
Caen, see p. 169. Starting in the Boul. St. Pierre, the tramway 

skirts the left bank of the canal between Caen and the sea, via Calix, 
Herouville, and (41/2 M.) Blainville. At (6 M.) Benouville it is joined 
by the tramway from Dives-Cabourg (see above), 



Jl 



in Calvados. LUC-SUK-MER. 21. Route. 157 

9^2 M. Ouistreham (Hot. de fUnivtrs; de La Marine) , an old 
seaport at the mouth of tlie canal, with a Romanesque church (12th 
uent.). Steamboat to Le Havre (p. 140). — 10 M. Riva-Betla (Hot. 
de la Plage) and (1272 M.) La Breche-d' HermanviUe have sea-baths. 

13 M. Lion-SUr-Mer. — Hotels. Gkand-Hotel, on the beach, R. from 3, 
d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8 Ir. ^ Hot. de la Plage, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. : 
Du Calvauos, pens, from 6 fr. ; Bellevue, D. 3 fr. — Furnished Houses. — 
Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 20 c., costume 40 c, 'peignoir' 15 c, towel 10 c. — 
Small Casino. — Lawn Tennis Club. 

Lion-sur-Mer is the leading watering-place on the W. coast of 

Calvados, though it is less pretentious than Houlgate or Cabourg 

and has no casino. The whole coast to the W. of Caen, though a 

little shingly, is very suitable for bathing , and at places it rises in 

cliffs of some height. At certain points the end of the season is apt 

to be accelerated by the smell of the sea-weed cast up in large 

; quantities by the sea, which, though used as manure by the peasants, 

\ is seldom wholly carted away before it begins to decay. There are 

few distractions at these watering-places beyond those offered by the 

sea and the beach. The bathing-boxes are large enough to be let 

(25-45 fr. per month) as day-quarters for visitors. 

131/2 M. Haut-Lion has a Renaissance chateau. 

15 M. Luc-SUr-Mer. — Hotels. Belle-Plage, D. 81/2, pens, from 
8fr.; DES Familles, D. 3, pens, from Gfr.; du Petit-Enfer, du Soleil- 
Levant, pens, at these from 7 fr.; all on the beach. — Sea-Baths. Bathing- 
box 40, costume 30-60, 'peignoir' 30-40, towel 10 c. — Casino. Adm. 1 fr. 
subs, for a week 7, fortnight 13, month 20 fr.-, family-tickets less. 

Luc-sur-Mer is the oldest though not now the pleasantest or 
most frequented bathing-place on this coast. It possesses a tolerable 
Casino. — The Faculte' des Sciences of Caen maintains a Maritime 
Laboratory at the E. end of the beach of Luc, in the direction of Lion, 

III. From Luc-sur-Mer to Langrune, St. Aubin-sur-Mer, and Courseulles. 

V2, I'A, and 5 M. Railway in 5, 10, and 25 minutes. This railway is 

used also by the steam-tramway to Courseulles and Bayeux (see p. 165 •, No. 2). 

Beyond Luc the railway runs close to the shore. The Rochers du 
Calvados in the sea are said to derive their name from the 'Salvador', 
a vessel belonging to the 'Invincible Armada', wrecked here in 1588.' 

1/2 M. (151/2 M. from Caen) Langrune. — Hotels. Grand -Hotel 
Cadvin, R. 2-5, pens. 7-9 fr.; Hot. de la Mer, with cafe; do Petit-PaRadis- 
all on the beach. — Bathing-box 30 c. ; costume 30 c, towel 10 c. 

Langrune resembles Luc in its general characteristics, but it is 
only 3/4 M. by the shore from Luc and 1 M. from St. Aubin, both 
of which have casinos. The Church has an elegant stone spire dating 
from the 13-14th cent, and contains a fine stone pulpit. 

13/4 M. St. Aubin-sur-Mer. - Hotels. De la Terrasse, halfway to 
Langrune, D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr.; St. Aubin (pens. 7 fr.), Bellevue, well- 
situated on the beach; de la Marine, D. 3 fr. — Casino, near the E. end 
3f the beach. — Ca/^ de VUnivert, near the Casino. — Bathing-box 25 c. 
— Lavm Tennis Club. 



158 Route 22, CHERBOURG. PrucLical Notes. 

St. Aubin-sur-Mer^ though only a village like Langrune, with a 
rather shingly beach, affords on the whole better bathing. It has a 
long 'Terrasse' of attractive villas, and possesses oyster-beds. — 
Between St. Aubin and Berniires is Rive-FLaye, with villas. 

3 M. Bernitres-sur-Mer (Vigne; de Paris) also has a few bathing- 
boxes and an interesting church dating from the ll-13th centuries. 

5 M. Courseulles (Hut. de Paris; des Etrangers, pens. 772 tr. — 
Restaurant des Farcs-aiu-HuUres) , at the mouth of the SeuUes, 
carries on an active trade in oysters. Its sea -baths, at a little 
distance from the town, are the most primitive on this coast and the 
most exposed to the sea-weed annoyance. The oyster-beds are 
between the station and the harbour. 

At Creull)/, 5'/2 M. up the valley of the Seulles, is a fine old cha- 
teau of thel2-l6th cent.; the ruined Prior// of St. Gabriel, P/'z M. farther 
on, dates from the 11th, 13th, and 15th centuries. 

Steam-tramway from Courseulles to Bayeux, see p. 165. 

22. From Cherbourg to Paris. 

230 M. CuEMiN DE Fer de l'Odest in 6'/'2-9 hrs^ (fares 41 fr. 65, 28 fr. 15, 
18 fr. 40 c). To Caen, 132 M. in 21/4-^1/2 lirs- (fares 14 fr. 90, 10 fr. 10, 
6 fr. 60 c). Restaurant- car by the afternoon express (D. 372-5 fr.). — 
From Southampton to Cherbourg, see p. xiv. 

Cherbourg. — Hotels. *^Palace Hotel des Bains et du Casino (PI. d; 
E, 3), beyond the Avant-Port du Commerce, open only in the season, 
R. from 4, B, IV2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 9, omn. to the station 1, to the 
quay 1/2 fr., frequented by Americans. — "Hot. de l'Amikaut6 et de l'Eukope 
(PI. a; E, 4), Quai Alexaudre-Trois 16, R. from 31/2, B. I1/4, dej. 3, ^-^h-i 
pens, from IOV2, omn. 3/4 fr., good; de Fkance et du Commerce (^1- c^l 
E,4), Rue du Bassin 41, R. from 3, B. IV4, dej. 3, D." 31/2, pens, from 10, 





Cafes. Du Orand-Balcon (with restaurant), de Paris, Quai de Caligny ; 
de VAmiraut4, de V Europe, Quai Alexandre-Trois ; du Grand- Thi&tre, at 
the theatre. 

Cabs. Per drive IV2, per hr. 2 fr. — Carriages for excursions at 
Faisanfs, Rue de TAncien-Quai 10. Motor Cars for hire at the Garage 
Mallet Rue du Bassin 11. 

Tramways. From the Place du Chateau (PI. E, 4) to Tourlaville (comp. 
Pl.G, 3-, p. 161); and to Equeurdreville and Querqueville (comp. PL A, 3, 4;j 
p. 161). Fares 10c. within the town, 10 c. per section outside the town, 
15 c. for two sections, 25 and 35 c. all the way. — Omnibus to Barfleur 
(p. 162), twice daily (6a.m. and 4 p.m.)-, to Beaumont and Auderville at 
6.15 am. (IV2 and 2 fr.) ; to Omonville-la-Rogue (p. 161) on Mon., Wed,, 
Thurs., & Sat. at 4 p.m. (IV2 fr.). 

Boats for expeditions within Cherbourg Roads: to the Digue (see' 
p. 159; 2hrs. there and back) about 10 fr. for 5 pers., 5-6 fr. for 2 pers.ji 
a bargain should be made. 

Steamboats to the Digue (on holidays, 1 fr.); Alderney and Guernsei 
on Wed. in 5-6 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 50, 8 fr. 75 c); Le Havre, eveiy Frid. (se 
p. 142). To Southampton (London), see p. xiv. To Bremen, Hamburg, Ne^ 
York, Brazil, etc., once a week. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), Rue de la Fontaine 54. 




Grarve ft inTjrrime pax 




"Wapner * Drbes I.rlpii{^. 



Roadstead. CHERBOURG. 22. Route. 159 

I Sea -Baths (PI. E, 3), to the E., beyond the commercial harbour, 

50 c, with costume and towel 75 c. Poor beach. — Casino, adm. 50 c. per 
day; balls weekly during the bathing-season (adm. 1 fr.). Military band 
on Thurs. & Sunday. 

British Vice-Consul, Capt. C. D. Beresford. — American Consular Agent, 
Octave Canuet. 

French Protestant Church (P1.D,5), Place Divette; service at 11a.m. 
English. Church Services are held here in Aug. and Sept. at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. 

Cherbourg, a town with 43,837 inhab. and a fortress of the first 
class, is the third naval harbour of France. It owes its importance 
to its situation at the N. extremity of the peninsula'of the Cotentin 
(p. 161), in a bay embraced between Cap Levi on the E., and Cap 
de la Hague on the W., and directly facing the coast of England, 
which is about 70 M. distant. 

Cherbourg is supposed by some authorities to occupy the site of the 
Roman station of Corialium or Coriallo; others regard the name as a cor- 
ruption ofCaesarisBurgus (Ca-sar's Castle), and it has also been suggested that 
the name is the same as the English Scarborough. The site of the town seems 
to have been early occupied by a baronial castle; and a Count of Cher- 
bourg followed William the Conqueror to England in 1066. Its proximity 
to England exposed it to frequent attack; and it was taken by the En"- 

i^^ 1\t^^^' ^'^^^' ^^^ ^^^^- ^" ^^^^ ^* became the capital of Charles the 
Bad of Navarre, and it continued to be a favourite landing-place for Ent^lish 
expeditions against France until 1450, when it was taken by Charles Vll. 
Finally, in 1758, the English fleet under Lord Howe landed a force here 
under General Bligh, who destroyed the fortifications and burnt the ship- 
ping and all the naval stores, though he left the town and its inhabitants 

yQ"Q^^!^^*®*^* ^° '^P"^' ^^^^' *^® ^^<^ ^® ^«"i landed here, and in Aug., 
lOdO, Charles X., the ex-king, embarked at Cherbourg for England. 

The town, most of which is modern, well-built, and clean, is 
comparatively uninteresting. The Commercial Harbour, which is 
situated at the mouth of the Divette and the Trotebec, lies to the 
E. of the town. This harbour, of quite secondary importance to the 
naval port (see p. 160), comprises two basins and an entrance- 
channel, 656 yds. long, flanked by granite breakwaters. Large quan- 
tities of butter, eggs, and poultry are exported hence to England. 
At the S. end of the harbour is the Railway Station (PLE, 5). 

The Roadstead of Cherbourg, which lies in front of the two 
ports, has a total superficies of 4 sq. M., but as certain parts of it 
are too shallow for large ships at low water, the total available 
anchorage is about one-fifth of that, or about 500 acres. Though 
sheltered on three sides this roadstead is naturally exposed to the 
ifull force of gales from the N., and Vauban, the great military en- 
gineer, seemed almost to be flying in the face of nature when he 
^proposed to establish a naval port here. The efforts to protect the 
anchorage by means of a 'digue' or breakwater, placed about 27-2 M. 
from the town, were twice baffled by winds and waves, but a third 
attempt, begun in 1832, has succeeded in rearing a gigantic barrier 
hjrhich seems likely to withstand the fury of the tempest. The present 
Digue is a substantial breakwater, 31)42 yds. long, from 164 to 220 
yds. broad at the base, and 65 yds. broad at low water-mark. It is 
formed of huge blocks of granite, carefully fitted together and present- 



160 Route 22. CHERBOURG. Harbour. 

ing a sloping face to the sea on each side. On this "base rests a mass 
of masonry, 30 ft. high and 30 ft. thick, rendered practically monolithic 
by the use of hydraulic cement. The works cost upwards of 2,680,000i. 
Visitors are permitted to land on the Digue (boats, see p. 158), 
which is fortified with four forts and twelve batteries. The excur- 
sion is one of the pleasantest at Cherbourg, and visitors enjoy an 
opportunity of viewing at close quarters some of the men-of-war 
which are usually lying in the roads. The view from the breakwater 
to the W. of the central fort is finer than that from the E. The 
channels at the ends of the Digue are commanded by forts on the 
mainland, as well as by detached forts on islets. The defences of 
the town are completed by a chain of detached forts on the sur- 
rounding heights. 

The Naval Harboue, or Dockyard (Pi. B, C, 1, 2, 3), is strongly 
defended on the landward side by a special line of redoubts and a 
ditch, which practically render it quite separate from the rest of 
the town to the S.W. It is entered from the Rue de I'Abbaye. 
Foreigners should present their passports vise'd by their consul. The 
visit takes about 1Y2 hour. 

Louis XIV., with tlie aid of Vauban, first conceived the idea of estab- 
lishing a naval harbour at Cherbourg, in opposition to Portsmouth, about 
80 M. distant. The works were, however, soon abandoned; and nothing 
was done until Napoleon I. took up the project with vigour. Its com- 
pletion was reserved for Napoleon III., who opened the port in presence 
of Queen Victoria in 1858, exactly 100 years after the last English attack 
on the town. The harbour and its buildings cover an area of 54 acres, and 
comprise three principal basins hewn in the solid rock, several smaller 
docks, well equipped workshops, magazines, and storehouses of every sort, 
and innumerable sheds, barracks, and other military and naval establish- 
ments. The three chief basins (the Avant-Fort, Bassin NapoUon-Trois^ and 
Bassin Charles-Dix) have a minimum depth of 30 ft. at low water and can 
easily accommodate 40 ships of the line at one time. 

Between the Bassiu Charles-Dix and the sea is situated the Direction de 
VArtillerie (PI. B, 1), with an extensive Arsenal, perhaps the most interest- 
ing point in the dockyard for the ordinary visitor. It contains about 
50,000 weapons (20,(X)0 muskets), artistically arranged in geometrical patterns 
and in the shape of porticos, palm trees, baskets, etc. Visitors are generally 
conducted over one or more of the Men-of-War lying in the harbour; but 
as these are usually dismantled, they are not so interesting as when lying 
outside in the roads. A Collection of Models is also shown. 

Near the commercial harbour lies the handsome Theatre (PL 10; 
E,4). In a small square adjoining the Avant-Port is a bronze Bust 
of Bricqueville., a colonel of the first empire, by David d' Angers. 
The Place Napoleon (PI. D, 3), to the left, farther on, is embellished 
with a bronze Equestrian Statue of Napoleon I.., by ArmandLe Veel. 
The inscription, 'J'avais resolu de renouveler k Cherbourg les mer- 
veilles de I'Egypte', refers to the construction of the Digue, which 
the emperor compared to the Pyramids. 

The Church of La Trinite (PL D, 3, 4), on the S. side of the 
square, dates from the 15th century. The nave is decorated with 
polychrome paintings, and above the arches are painted and gilded 
reliefs representing scenes from the Passion and a Dance of Death. 



Enoirons. CHERBOURG. 22. Route. 161 

The Hotel de Ville (PI. 6; D, 3), on the W. side of the Place 
(le la Republique, contains a Musee of some importance (open on 
Sun., 10-12 & 2-4 or 5, free; other days, except Mon., for a fee). 

The paintings and ceramic collection are on the first floor; the collec- 
tions of natural history and antiquities on the second. — The Municipal 
Library (PI. 2; D, 4), Rue Thiers, is open on week-days, 2-4 and 5-9 (in 
winter closed on Mon. but open on Sun. 10-12 and 2-6). 

Beyond the Monument des Coloniaux (PI. D, 3 ; 1895) the Rne 
lie I'Abbaye leads towards the naval harbour. At No. 9 in this 
street is an entrance to the public Pare Emmanuel- Liais (PI. C, D, 
4). This contains a museum of natural history, antiquities, and a 
collection of coins besides some paintings (open as the Musee, see 
above, and also on Thurs. 2-5). 

On the S. side of the town is the noteworthy modern church of 
Notre- Dame-du-Voeu (Pl.D, 5), in the Romanesque style, with two 
towers and spires at the W. end. It replaces an earlier church of 
the 12th cent. , built, along with an abbey, in fulfilment of a solemn 
vow taken by Queen Matilda of England during a storm. 

In the pretty Public Garden (PI. F, 5), to the E. of the station, 
are a statue to Millet (1814-75), the painter, and a 13th cent, gate- 
way of the ancient chapel of the Abbaye du Vceu. 

The Montagne du Route (PI. F, 5), beyond this garden, commands 
a fine *View of the town and the roadstead. The summit, reached 
in V4 hr. on foot, is occupied by a fort (no adm.). 

Environs. Pleasant excursions (carr. 2 fr. per hour) may be made from 
'Cherbourg to the Chdteau de Martinvast (see below), the park of which is 
open on Sun. from 12-6; to the (2V2 M.) Chdteau de Tourlaville (16th cent.), 
on the Barfleur road (tramway, p. 158) ; to the village of (31/2 M.) Querqueville 
(tramway, p. 153), 1 M. beyond which is the Chdteau de Nacqueville, 
formerly the residence of Count Alexis de Tocqueville, the great political 
svriter and historian. About 2 M. farther on is the bathing-beach of (6 M.) 
Landemer (Voisin; Millet), to which an omnibus (50 c.) plies from the 
tramway terminus. The little port of Omonville-la-Rogue (omnibus from 
Cherbourg, H/z fr., 4 times weekly) lies 5 M. from Landemer. Thence we 
may proceed to the pretty Bay of St. Martin (2V2 M. farther), beside Cape 
la Hague (16 M.), from which the Channel Islands are visible. 

From Cherbourg to Coutances, FolUgny (Granville), Pontorson (Mont 
3t. Michel), Dot (St. Malo), and Brest, see R. 24. 

The railway on quitting Cherbourg runs to the S. through the 
Cotentin, a flat and marshy region, famous for its cattle. The 
lame is said to be a corruption of Ager Constantinus. Many of the 
'oUowers of William the Conqueror came from this part of Nor- 
mandy ; and some of the most illustrious names among the English 
iristocracy are derived from those of humble villages in the Cotentin. 
Che hedges here give quite an English aspect to the country. 

To the left rises the Montagne du Roule (see above). — Beyond 
33/4 M.) Martinvast, with a chateau and stud-farm belonging to 
Uron Schickler, we traverse a hilly district to (7 M.) Couville. 
Mligence to Flamnnville (12 M.). — 11 M. Sottevast, to the left, has 
chateau of thel7th century. Railway to Coutances, etc., see p. 176. 

Rakdkkeb's Northern France. 5th Edit. i\ 



162 Route 22. CARENTAN. From Cherbourg 

171/2 M. Valognes (Hotel du Louvre)^ a small decayed town 
with 5746 inhab. and a cliurcli, wliich dates from the 14th century. 

From Valognes to Barfleur, 221/2 M. , railway in 13/4-2 hrs. (fares 
3fr.7U, 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 5 c.). 'i'liis line hag a special station near the main- 
line" station. — 6 M. St- Martin-d Audouville-VaudreviUe. Branch to Monte- 
bourg, see below. — 8V2 M. Leslre-QuinMlle. QuinMlle (hotel) is a sea- 
bathing place with a good beach. King James II. of England watched 
the battle of La Hogue (see below) from this neighbourhood. — 15V2 M. 
St-Vaast-la-Hougue (Hotel de France; de Normandie), a sea-bathing town 
with 2635 inhabitants. The harbour is defended by forts on the He Tatihou, to 
the N., and on the He de la Hougve, to the S. La Hogue is famous for the 
defeat of the French admiral De Tourville by the united English and Dutch 
fleets, under Russell and Rooke, which took place off the coast in May, 1692. 

22V2 M. Barfleur (Hdtel du Phare) is a small seaport and sea-bathing 
resort, which was of considerable importance in the middle ages as a port 
of communication between Normandy and England. In 1120 Prince Wil- 
liam, only son of Henry I., with 140 young noblemen of the English court, 
set sail here in the ill-fated 'White Ship, which struck on one of the rocks 
outside the harbour and went down with all on board, except a poor butcher 
of Rouen, The Pointe de Barfleur or Raz de Oatteville, 21/2 M. to the N., 
the E. extremity of the peninsula of the Cotentin, is marked by a light- 
house, 245 ft. high. — A public conveyance (2 fr. 10 c.) plies twice daily 
in 3 hrs. from Barfleur to (IT M.) Cherbourg. 

From the station of (221/2 M.) Montebourg a branch-line runs to 
the town of the same name, 2^/2 ^- to t^e S.W., and to (2V2 M. 
farther on) the railway from Valognes to Barfleur (see above). 

351/2 M. Carentan (Hot. d' Angleterre , R. 2-3, D. 31/2 fr.; du 
Commerce), a town with 4076 inhab. on the canalized Taute, ex-- 
porting vegetables and dairy -produce to England. The church 
dates from the 15th century. 

From Carentan to Carteret (Jersey), 26V'2 M., railway in 1-1 V2 hr. 
(fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). — 141/2 M. La Hay e-du- Putts, junction foi 
the Cherbourg and Brest line (p. 176). 21 M. Poribail (Des Voyageurs^ 
du Nord), a small seaport carrying on trade with Jersey. — 2672 M. Carterel 
("Hdt. de la Mer, pens. 8-10 fr. ; d' Angleterre, pens. 6V2-8 fr., good; du Com' 
merce; du Petit -Vatel , pens. 6V2 fr.), a thriving bathing-place and seaport 
with a daily service of steamers in summer to (1 hr.) Gorey on the island 
Qi Jersey (fares 7 fr. 55, 5 fr. 5 c, return-tickets 11 fr. 25, 7 fr. 50 c). 

Crossing the Vire we quit the Cotentin. — 43 M. Neuilly. 

Branch-railway to (5 M.) Isigny (Hdt. de France, R. 2-4, D. 21/2 fr. ; di 
Commerce), with 2549 inhab. and a small harbour which exports large 
quantities of butter to England. — A steam-tramway plies from Isigny* 
to (7 M.) Grandcamp-les-Bains (Grand-Hotel, R. 272-5, D. 3 fr. •, Hot. de la 
Croix-Blanche : de la Plage), going on thence via (I41/2 M.) St. Laurent-sur- 
Mer (Hot. de la Plage), a new bathing-resort, and (17 M.) Formigny, famous 
for the battle that practically ended the Hundred Years' War (1450; see 
p. 118), to (26 M.) Le Molay-Uttry (p. 163). ;^ 

To the right flows the Elle, an affluent of the Vire. TI! 

46V2M. Lison (Buffet; Hotel de la Qare). 

From LisoN to Coutances (Granville, Avranches, etc.), 30 M., rail- 
way in IV2-23/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c). The train enters the 
valley of the Vive, and ascends it to St. Lo. Views to the right. 

12 M. St. Lo iH6t. de VUnivers, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr., well spoken of •, de 
Normandie, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr., good), a very ancient place, with 12,181 
inhab., and the chief town of the department of the Manche, is pictur- 
esquely situated on a slope on the right bank of the Vire. It derives 
its name from St. Laudus (d. 868), one of its early bishops. The town 

il 



to Paris. BAYEUX. 22. Route. 163 

waa fortified by Charlemagne, and was taken several times by the Nor- 
mans and English. The Church of Notre-Dame, built in the l4-16th cent 
and restored in the 17th cent., has two handsome towers; and outside 
the choir is a fine Gothic stone pulpit. The lUtel de Ville (a modern 
structure), the Palais de Justice, and the Prefecture are situated in a 
square near the cathedral. In the vestibule of the first, to the right 
18 the Torigny Marble', an antique pedestal with an important in- 
scription. - The Mus^e (adm. on Sun., 12-3, and Thurs., 1-4) contains 
paintings of no great value, various works of art (triptych with five laree 
enamels), antiquities, medals, etc. — At St. L6 is one of the principal 
stud-farms in France, with about 400 horses (adm. 12.30-5 30) — Branch 
railway to GuilbervUle (p. 175 ; 16 M.) via (71/2 M.) Condi-sur- Vire (to Granville, 
see p. 179) and (IOV2 M.) Torigny-sur-Vire (St. Pierre; d'Angleterre), a small 
town with two ancient churches and a chateau (late 16th cent.) the latier 
now used as the town-hall and containing a musee. 

^ri.Io1'^ ,^y^' W"" ^"'q^a'T/^^ ^^^ railway traverses "an undulating district. 
Views to the left. — 30 M. Coutances, see p. 176. 

541/2 M. Le Molay-Littry, whence tramways ply to (7 M.) Bailer oy 
le-Bourg and to (19 M.) Orandcamp-les-Bains (p. 162). 

631/2 M. Bayeux [Hotel du Luxembourg, Rue des Bouchers 25, 
R. from 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 10 fr. ; du Lion-d'Or, Rue St. Jean 71,' 
D. 3, peas. 8-12 fr.; Benedictine Convent- Pension, for ladies), a 
town of 7736 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, is situated to the right. 
-.»ii«H t ^'/if ^J *^® ^^y" ^''^ occupied by the capital of the Baiocassi, 
called by the Romans Augustodurum. Subsequently the town became the 
capital of the 5mt«. In the wars with England it was taken by Edward III. 
in 1346, by Henry V. in 1417, and by Dunois in 1450, after the battle 
01 r ormigny. 

The *Cathedbal of Notre-Dame, about 1/2 M. from the station, 
from which it is visible, is a striking Gothic edifice of the 12-15th 
cent., built on the site of an earlier church founded in the 11th cent 
f« by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, half-brother of WiUiam the Conqueror. The 
two Romanesque towers of the W. fa(jade are surmounted by Gothic 
spires ; the Flamboyant E. tower has a modern dome. The chevet, 
with its graceful turrets, is one of the most beautiful examples of 
the early-Gothic style in France. The lateral portals are also note- 
worthy features of the exterior, which is stiU elaborately decorated 
though many of the sculptures have been mutilated. ' 

The iNTERion produces an equally dignified impression. The Roman- 
esque arcades of the nave belonged to a church of the 12th cent.: the span- 
arels ot the lower arches are covered with rich diapering. The exceed- 
ingly graceful pointed arches of the apse, constructed in the 13th cent 
are aniong the chief beauties of the chu;ch ; while, on the other Tand 
he windows of this part of the building fail of effect on account of their 
)mall size. The windows of the transepts and above the organ-loft are 
rv'^raifTn ^°.' ^'T TJ?"\^'"? 22 chapels in the cathedra^and a larg^ 
\rlT.i.t^\ .^-\\''/" }^.^ ^^^'^' '^^t^^g f'^^"^ *^e 11th centurv. The 
irst chapel to the left contains a magnificent altar-piece in stone; and the 
italls and four sedilia in the choir should be examined. Adioinin- one 

,H,!rVn'''^f " a'^'' *^f ""^^^'^^ '^ "" chapter-house of the 13th cent (restored • 
idm. 50 c.). Ascent of the tower, 1 fr. coiuicu, 

The fine Renaissance house, No. 6 Rue Bienvenue, should be 
loticed. The Rue des Chanoines and then the Rue Bourbesneur 
the right, lead to the handsome Place du St. Sauveur Here fto 
.he right) is the Public Library (30,000 vols.), containing a smaU 

11* 



164 Route 22. BAYEUX. From Clierhourg 

Musee (shown on application). In the latter is preserved the famous 
*Bayeux Tapestry, which is conveniently exposed to view, under , 

glass, in the second room. 

This famous Tapestry consists of a strip of linen cloth, now somewhat 
brown with age, 230 ft. long and 18 inches wide, embroidered in coloured : 
woollen thread with dcenes illustrating the events which led to the con- 
quest of England by William in 1066. Most of the scenes are explained 
by Latin inscriptions, the letters of which, about an inch long, are also j 
stitched in wool. The main subjects occupy the centre of the tapestry, ! 
and above and below run ornamental borders, filled with scenes from 
^sop"s Fables, sporting scenes, fabulous animals of the most grotesque de- 
scription, and (towards the endj the bodies of the slain at Hastings. Eight 
colours appear in the worsted used, but there is little attempt to distribute 
these according to verisimilitude. The flesh-parts of the figures are merely 
outlined; the English are uniformly depicted with moustaches and the 
I^ormans without; and there is an evident efTort made to retain a general 
resemblance in the recurring figures of William and Harold. 

The origin of this interesting work has given rise to much contro- 
versy. A favourite opinion ascribes it to Matilda, wife of the Conqueror, 
and tradition has it that it was her death alone that prevented the final 
scene of William's coronation appearing on the tapestry. Though possibly 
not by Matilda, the work is undoubtedly a contemporary work of Wil- 
liam's reign ; so that its importance as a historical document far outweighs 
its interest as a specimen of the domestic art of the 11th century. It is 
mentioned in an inventory of goods belonging to Bayeux cathedral in 
1476; but general attention was not drawn to it until 1724, when it was locally 
known as the 'Toilette du Due Guillaume'. In 1803 Is^apoleon I. exhibited it 
at the Louvre in Paris in order to incite the French to another conquest of 
England; but it was afterwards restored to Bayeux. — The first of the 
58 scenes is in the middle of the left side of the room: — 

1. Edward the Confessor despatches Harold to announce to William 
that he will one day be king of England. 2. Harold sets out. 3. Church. 
4. Harold at sea. 5. Harold driven by a storm to Ponthieu. 6. Harolf" 
prepares to land. 7. Guy, Count of Ponthieu, arrests Harold. 8. Guy andv 
Harold ride to Beaurin. 9. Interview between Guy and Harold. 10. Mes- 
sengers from William arrive to request the release of Harold. 11. They 
threaten Guv. 12. William receives a messenger. 13. William receives 
Harold at Eu. 14. William takes Harold to Rouen. 15. A priest and 
Elgiva, daughter of William. 16. William and his army, accompanied by 
Harold, reach Mont St. Michel, on a campaign against Conan, Duke^ of 
Brittany. 17. They cross the river Couesnon; Harold rescues several Kor- 
mans from the quicksands. 18. Conan put to flight at Dol. 19. William' 
attacks Dinan. 20. Conan surrenders the keys of the town on the point of 
a lance. 21. William knights Harold. 22. They return to Bayeux (Bagias). 
23. Where Harold takes the oath. 24. Harold returns to England. 25. And 
reports to Edward the result of his embassy. 26. Funeral of Edward a 
St. Peter's Church (Westminster Abbey). This scene seems out of order, a 
Edward lies on his death-bed in No. 27, and dies in No. 28. 29. The crown i 
offered to Harold. 30. Harold is crowned by Stigand. 31. The people pa; 
homage. 32. Portentous appearance of the comet of 1066. 33. Harold arm 
himself. 34. English ship on the Norman coast. 35. William orders i 
fleet to be built. 36. His ships are launched. 37. The fleet is armed an< 
provisioned. 38. William sets sail and arrives at Pevensey. 39. The horse 
are landed. 40. The Normans march towards Hastings. 41. Wadar, who8 
name appears in Domesday as a vassal of Odo, William's brother, acts a 
commissariat-officer. 42. The viands are prepared. 43. Banquet of William 
44. William, Odo ofBaveux, and Robert of Mortain take council. 45- The 
camp is fortified. 46. William is informed of Harold's approach. 47. A 
house is burned. 48. The Normans advance. 49. William questions Vital 
the scout. 50. William's advance is announced to Harold. 51. William 
harangues his troops and the battle begins. 52. Death of Leofwine and 
Gyrth, Harold's brothers. 53. The thick of the fight. 54. Odo encourages 



«o Paris. LISIEUX. 22. Route 165 

the Xormans. 55. William raiaea hia viaor to show hia men that he ia not 

Jl li-v^^P^.v^- J^^^'^^'^^t ^^""y ^3 «"* *o Piecea. 57. Death of Harold. 
08. Flight of the Enghah. — Reproductions of the tapeatry (5 fr.) are beat 
obtained at Tottain's, in the town. •,» *»c uesi 

/-lQQ^^i*fin^*^ *^® '''^^* ^^ *^® ^^^'^''^y ^^ * ^*^*^® Of yiiam C/iarfier 
(ld»b-1449), the poet, who was born at Bayeux. — On the first floor 
of the Hotel de Ville, incorporating the former episcopal palace is 
a Musee (free on Sun. & Thurs., 1 to 4 or 5; other days on appli- 
cation), including some interesting paintings. — Bay eux still retains 
many quaint old houses which will deUght the antiquarian- Rue 
St. Martin, Nos. 43, 69, Rue St. Malo, No. 4, etc. 

Steam-tramwaya run from the atation at Bayeux aa follows • 
Q mS » P»«™-Bessin, 7 M., in 40 min. (fares 1 fr. 20, 1 fr.,'65 c). - 
3 M. ^«%, with a 12th cent, church. - 41/2 M. Maisons. The river Aure 
disappears here into the Fosses du Soucp, four curious natural openings 
emergmg 2 M. farther on at the foot of the cliffs. - 7 M. Port-en^ Beslin 
(Hot de la Marine; de TEurope) has a amall harbour 
Of Q^^'^o^fH" T'* ^r,? •■'"^ Couraeulles, 191/2 M., in 2i/4 hrs. (3 fr. 70 
2fr. 95, 2 fr. 5 c). - 51/2 M. Ryes-Bourg, beyond which the branch to Ar- 
romanches (see below) diverges to the left. - 8 M. Asnelles {_H6t. des Bains 
\fdl'\^T-^^^'-\ ^' ^^ ^«««-^^«^«. Pena. 71/2 fr.), and (12 SI.) VersurZ 
n •'ifil^ tZ^^^^\ ^noT^\ f^-^^'^^^S places.' - 141/2 M. Courseu^lZ 
(p. 158). Thence to (191/2 M.) Imc, see pp. I58, 157 

Jo Akromanohes, 8 M., in 1 hr. (1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 25, 85 c.) Ar- 
romanches-les-Bams ((?ra»rf-^<5^e^ pens. 7-10 fr. 5 Bdt. de lEtoile-du-Nord) 
is a prettily-aituated bathing-resort. "^ 

• A ^j^^o ^^ Besace, 26 M., in 2^U hrs. (4 fr. 60, 3 fr 80 2 f r 50 r 1 
via (10 MJ Balleroy-le-Bourg '(p. 163/.' 26 m\ La S^'.ac., on the Une^froi 
Caen to Vire, aee p. 175. 

691/2 M. Audrieu, to the right, with a fine church of the 13-14th 
centuries. 731/2 M. BretteviUe-Norrey. IQy^ M. Carpiquet. — As 
the railway approaches Caen we see, on the left, La Maladrerie 
J). IDb), with a prison. Fine view of the town. We cross the 
Orne and enter the picturesque town of — 

82 M. Caen (p. 169). 

On leaving Caen we have a view of the town on the left 861/9 M 
Frenouvme-Cagny. — 9O1/2 M. Moult- Argences. — 961/2 M. Mezidon 
Buffet; Hot. del'Europe; Ste. Barbe). Railway to Argentan, etc., 
see pp. 185, 186. ' ' 

mr Ser ^1^/''m '''' •? '^''•''7,/''^.f; J^^ C^bourg, Houlgate, and Villera- 
lur-Mer, 31 '/z M., railway in I3/4-31/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 70, 3 fr. 85, 2fr 50 c ) 
The train descends the VaU^e d^Auge, with rich pastures watered by the 
sZr^'n^ a^'h^u ;^T'*n ^O'^teresting church of the 15th cent.; 10 M. 
71/ M ^ ^V*2V2 M.)DozuU.Putot a line diverges to Caen (p. 175). - 
.71/2 M. Dtves-Cabourg. Thence to (3I1/2 M.) Trouville, aee p. 155 

We now cross the Dives. — IOO1/2 M. Le Mesnil-Mauger 

A branch-railway runs hence to (39 M.) Ste. Oauhiirge (p. 182), via 
15 M) Umoutxers (Soleil d'Or), a small town 3 M. to the N. ofCamembl-t 
^ village noted for its cheese, and (35-/2 BI.) Echauffour {s^e. p. 167). 

We pass through a tunnel, 13/^ M. long. 

112 M. Lisieux {Buffet; Hotel de Normandie, Rue au Char 25, 
t.^-0, dej. 2 /2, D. 3 fr. ; Moderne, Rue de la Gare 6; de France et 
■ Espagne, Grande-Kue 121), the ancient Noviomagus, the capital 
I the Lexovti, and formerly the seat of a bishop, is a prosperous 



166 Route 22. BERNAY. From Cherbourg 

industrial antl commercial town, with 16,239 inhal)., situated at the 
confluence of the Touques and the Orbiquet The leading industry 
is the manufacture of woollen cloth and flannel 

The imposing Cathedral of St. Pierre lies ahout 1/2 M. to the left 
of the station, closely adjoined hy the former episcopal palace and 
other huildings. This church was huilt ahout 1170, at a single epoch 
and hy a single architect, with the exception of the apse, the chapels 
of which were added about 1230, and the central Lady Chapel, which 
was erected in the 15th cent., hy Pierre Cauchon, Bishop of Beauvais, 
one of Joan of Arc's judges, in expiation of his condemnation of 
that heroine. The S. tower (230 ft. high), the only one with a spire, 
was rebuilt in 1579. The transept is surmounted by a lantern-tower. 
The S. side is embellished with a striking portal, which Ruskin calls 
'one of the most quaint and interesting doors in Normandy', the 
work of which is 'altogether rude, but full of spirit'. In the interior 
(360 ft. long, 98 ft. wide, 65 ft. high) the choir-stalls and five large 
paintings by Lemonnier, Lagrenee, Larrieu, Lacourt^ and Robin, in 
the chapels of the nave, representing scenes from the lives of SS. 
Peter and Paul, are noteworthy. Henry II. of England married 
Eleanor of Guienne in this cathedral in 1154. 

The Episcopal Palace, built in 1680, is now used as a court- 
house, and contains the small Musee. The staircase in the court 
ascends to the Public Garden. The Musee (open on Thurs. and 
Sun., 1-4; on other days on application) contains chiefly modern 
French pictures. 

The church of St. Jacques (late 15th cent.), a little to the S.,^ 
reached by the Rue au Char, contains some good stained glass and 
ancient paintings and wood-carving, but the only interesting feat- 
ure of the exterior is the staircase leading up to it. In the neigh- 
bourhood are many quaint old houses ; e.g. in the Rue aux Fevres 
(Maison de Fran(^ois Premier, or de la Salamandre), Rue d'Orbiquet, 
Rue de la Paix, Place Victor-Hugo, and Rue de Caen (Maison de 

Charlotte Corday). 

Fkom Lisieux to Trodville (18 M. , railway in V2-I lir.) and to 
HoNFLEUR (26 M., in 1-1 V2 ir.)- Leaving the line to Caen on the left, we 
pass through a tunnel V2 M. long, and descend the valley of the Touques. 
6 M Le Breuil-Blangy. — 10^2 M. Pont-l'Eveque (Bras d'Or), a quaint old 
town, noted for its cheese. The line to Eonfleur (p. 145) diverges here to 
the N E., via Quetteville (p. 168). — The next station on the TrouviUe line 
is (16 M ) Touques (Hot. de la Marine), a small river-port, with two ancient 
churches, 21/4 M. from the mouth of the Touques and IV4 M. from the 
ruined Chateau de Bonneville (adm. 50 c). 18 M. TrouviUe, see p. 152. 

A hranch-line runs from Lisieux to (20 M.) La TriniU-de-mvtlle (p. 167), 
via (7 M ) St. Pierre-de-Mailloc, near the ancient Chdteau de Mailloc (visitors 
admitted), and (12 M.) Orhec (Hot. de France •, de TEquerre), a small town 

with an interesting church. „. i, ^ • • • .^v -^ * jj.j.«, 

At St. Ouen-le-rin, 1 M. to the W. of Lisieux, is the ancient Abben 

of Val Richer., of which Thomas Becket was for a time ahbot. It wap 

transformed into a chateau by Guizot, who died here in 1874. 

1311/2 M. Bernay (Lion d'Or; Cheval Blanc), a commercial an 

industrial town with 8115 inhab., is situated on the left bank of the 

I 



to Paris. CONCHES. 22. Route. 167 

Charentonne. The church of Ste. Croix (14-16th cent.) has an 
elegant tower and contains a fine high-altar of red marble, dating 
from 1683-84, and some curious sculptures, including an Infant 
Jesus, on the tabernacle of the altar, ascribed to P.Puget. Remains 
of the Abbey (1013), round which the town grew up in the 11th cent., 
and of the Ahbetj Church are still extant, the former occupied by the' 
Sous-Prefecture, the Hotel de Ville, and other public offices, the latter 
serving as a market. Behind it is a small Musee (open Sun. & Thurs. 
1-4). The horse-fair of Bernay, held in the 5th week of Lent, is one 
of the most important in France. On a hill outside the town, to 
the left of the railway, stands the church of Notre-Dame-de-la- 
Couture, built in the 14-16th centuries. 

A branch-railway runs from Bernay to (33 M.) Ste. Gauburge, follow- 
ing at first the valley of the Charentonne. At (10 M.) La Triniid-de-R^ville it 
18 joined by the line from Lisieux (see p. 166), and at (29 M.) Echauffour 
merges in the railway from Le Mesnil-Mauger to Ste. Gauburge (p. 165). 

The church of (138 M.) Serquigny (buffet) is adorned with a fine 
portal of the 11th century. 

From Serqdignt to Rouen, 38 M., in IV2-I3/4 hr. (fares 6 fr. 86 4 fr 

30 c, 3 fr.). The line followa the attractive valley of the Risle -^ 7 m' 
Brionne (Hot. de France), an industrial town (3351 inhab.) with* a castle 
3f the 12th century. — 12 M. Glos-Montfort (buffet); to Evreux and Hon- 

1®^"I; ^^^ P' ^^^- ^'^^ '^°® ^®°*^® ^"^^^ *o *^® E- ^ia (21 M.) Bourgtheroulde 

31 M.) Elbenf (St. Aubin; p. 140), where we cross the Seine, (36V2 M ) Tour- 
fille, and (37 M.) Oissel (p. 122). — 451/2 M. Rouen (Rive Droite), see p. 128. 

At (141 M.) Beaumont-le- Roger (Hot. de Paris) are a ruined 
ibbey (12-13th cent.) and an interesting church (14-16th cent.). 

152 M. Conches (Buffet; Croix Blanche), near which is a ruined 

iastle (12th cent.). The church of Ste. Foy (15th cent.) has 27 

!tained-glass * Windows (16th cent.), those in the choir designed by 

^Idegrever. The vaulting of the choir and aisles, two reliefs in the 

ihapels, and the elegant spire (rebuilt) should also be noticed. 

TT-«.^?''^^'^?''.Vl® ''""'^ ^®°^® *^ ^24 M.) Laigle (p. 182), via (17 M.) Rugles 
Hot. de 1 Btoile), which contains two interesting old churches. 

Tunnel. — Near (157V2 M.) La Bonneville is the ruined Abbaye 
le la Noe, founded in 1144 by Matilda, daughter of Henry I. of 
ilngland and wife of the German Emperor Henry II. 

1631/2 M. Evreux, — Railway Stations. Gare de VOuett (buffet), to 
he S. of the town, for all trains. The Gare de Louviers is for goods-trains 
>nly. 

Hotels. Dd Gkand-Cerf, Rue de la Harpe 14, R. 2-12, B. IV4, d^i. 21/2, 
). 3, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Moderne, Rue Chartraine 23, R. 2-10, B 1 de'i 2'/2 
). 3 pens, from 8V2, omn. 1 fr. ; du Cheval-Blanc, Rue de la Harpe 44,' 
.. 2-5, B. 3/,, dej 21/2 D. 3, pens. 874-91/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; du Rocheb-de- 
'ANCALE, Grande-Rue 35, pens. 71/-.: fr. ; de la Bicue, Rue Josephine 7. 

Evreux, on the Iton, is the chief town of the department of Eure 
nd the seat of a bishop. Pop. 18,971. The chief trade is in grain. 

Evreux is a place of considerable antiquity, though the Mediolanum 
W«rco|«m of the Romans is represented by the village of Vieil-Evreux, 
12 SI. to the b.E., where various Roman remains have been found This 
.Oman settlenaent was destroyed by the Franks under Clovis, and the town 
'hich succeeded was overthrown by the Norsemen at the end of tbe 



168 Route 22. EVllEUX. 

9th century. Henry I. of England 'burnt Evreux, with the consent of the 
tishop, on condition of rebuilding the churches; and at the close of the 
12th cent, it was once more given to the flames, on this occasion by Philip 
Augustus. The town gives name to the English family of Devcreux. 

The Cathedral of Notre-Darne, not far from the station, is a build- 
ing of great interest, though it confuses all styles of architecture in 
vogue from the Uth to the 18th cent., and is, unfortunately, not quite 
detached from other buildings. The main portal, which has two towers 
of unequal height, dates from the close of the Renaissance period ; 
but the most interesting feature of the exterior is the Flamboyant 
N. portal, built in 1511-31. The crossing is surmounted by a hand- 
some 15th cent, tower, with an open-work spire. 

The Interior (restored 1875-96) is 355 ft. long, with very lofty vaulting. 
The lower portion of the nave, which is remarkably narrow (21 ft.), is 
Romanesuue, the remainder Gothic, of the 13-15th centuries. The chapels 
of the choir and ambulatory are closed with beautiful Renaissance screens 
of carved wood, and the stalls and delicate iron-work in the choir and 
treasurv (to the S.) date from the 15th cent.; but the chief glory of the 
interior is the "Stained Glass in the Lady Chapel and the transepts 
dating from the 15th and 16th cent, respectively. The rose-window of th< 
S. transept is a fine example of flowing tracery, with the peculiarity o 
having all the muUions of the same thickness. 

The cathedral is adjoined by some remains of Gothic Cloisieri 
and by the tasteful Bishops Palace (1481 ; restored in 1876). To 
the N. is the Tour de I'Horloge, a belfry of 1490. 

The Musee (adm. daily, 12-4, 50 c. ; Sun. & Thurs. free), at thd 
corner of the Rue de I'Horloge and the Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville, 
contains statues and other antiquities chiefly from Vieil-Evreus 
(p. 167), some modern French pictures, and mediaeval relics. — In 
front of the handsome Hotel de Ville (1890-95) is a pretty Fountain, 

In the extreme W. of the town is the former abbey-church ol 
St. Taurin, founded in 1026, with a few Gothic additions of latei 
date. It contains a crypt, some antique stained glass of the 15-16th 
cent., and some good wood-carving and bas-reliefs of the 16th cent- 
ury. On the way thither we pass the Palais de Justice, comprising 

an ancient Renaissance church. 

A branch-railway runs from Evreux to (171/2 M.) Louviers Cp. m} 
following the valley of the Iton. — Branch-lines run also to (ddVa m.. 
Verneuil (p. 182) via Prey, Damville, Condi-Gouville, and Breteuil ;&nA to 
(26V2 M.) Dreux (p. 183) via Fret/, St. Andri-de-V Eure, and St. Georges-i 

^"'fk^Jm E?EEUX TO HoNFLEUR, 57 M., in 4-51/2 brs. - I51/2 M. LeNenbourg, 
a small town with the ruins of a castle and a 16th cent, church. 2572 M- 
St-Martin-Brionne. Brionne, see p. 167. - 261/2 M. Le Bec-Hellouin, with the 
scanty remains of the Ahhey of Bee, of which Lanfranc and Anselm, the 
first two archbishops of Canterbury after the :Norman Conquest, were in- 
mates before their elevation. — 30 M. Qlos - Montfort (buffet); to faer- 
quigny and Rouen, see p. 167. - The line now descends the valley of 
the Risle. — 89 M. Pont-Audemer {Hot. du Lion-d Or, R. 6, D.^ 6 tr. ; du 
Pot-d'Etain, near the station), a picturesquely situated industrial village 
of 6111 inhab., on the Risle. The church of St. Ouen, the chief building, 
dates from the 11th, 15th, and 16th cent, and contains some good stained 
glass and some curious wood-carvings. At No. b2 Rue au^ Patissiers. 
opposite the Edtel de Ville, is the Musee- BibliotU que (oP^n Sun 1-4). A 
steamboat plies daily on the Risle from Pont-Audemer to (12 M.) Le Havre, 



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CAEN. 23. Route. 169 

in 21/2 lirs. (3 fr.). Motor -omnibuses to Quillebeuf (see p. 142), Elheuf 
(p. 140), Lisietix (p. 165), and Eonjleur (p. 145). — 49^/2 M. Quetteville (p. 154). 
— 57 M. Hon^eur, see p. 145. 

Beyond Evreux we have a good view of the town on the left 
and then pass througli three tunnels. 1731/2 M. Boisset (Eure), 
beyond which the Eure is crossed. 

180 M. Bueil is also a station on the line from Rouen to Orleans 
via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres (p. 140). — 186 1/2 M. Breval. — 
1941/2 M. Mantes (Rail. Restaurant) and thence to Paris, see R. 17a. 



23. Caen. 

Railway Stations. Oare de V Quest (PI. F, 5), the chief station (Buffet, 
ddj. 3, D. 31/2, meal IV2 fr.), to the S.E., used by all trains, including 
those to the coast (but comp. p. 156); Gare St. Martin or de la Mer (PI. 
B, 2), to the N.W. — Gare du Tramway ct Vapeur (steam-tramway; PI. D, 
3; see p. 175), Boul. St. Pierre. 

Hotels. **H6t. d'Angletekre (PI. a; D, 3), Rue St. Jean 79, R. from 
4, B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 4 (in the restaurant 4 and 5), pens, from 10 fr., omn. 
30 c, box 25 c., *HnT. de la Place-Royale (PI. c; C, 3). Place de la 
R^publique, R. 3-5, B. IV2, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 10-12, omn. 1/2 fr., English 
clientele, two first-class houses with lifts, baths, etc. ^- Hot. de France 
(PI. e-, E, 5), Rue de la Gare 6, near the Gare de TOuest, R. 2V2-4, B. 1, 
dej. 3, D. 372, pens. 8-10 fr. •, *H6t. Moderne et de Londres r^unis (PI. f: C, 
D, 3), Boul. St. Pierre, R. from 3, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; du Centre et 
de la Victoire (PI. g; D, 2, 3), Place du March^-au-Bois, R. 2, d^j. 21/2, 
D. 3 fr. ; DE Normandie (PI. d ; D, 3), Rue St. Pierre 25, R. 2, B. 3/4, d^j. 21/2, 
D. 3, pens. 7'/2 fr. — Pension de Famille. Guirin. Rue de Geole 56, pens. 
6-7 fr., English. 

Restaurants. Pipin-Fahre, Place du March^-au-Bois 13-17 (PI. D, 2, 3), 
a la carte; de Madrid, Rue St. Jean 71, with garden, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. (incl. 
wine), and k la carle; Robert, Place St. Sauveur 11, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr. (inch 
wine); Bellevne, Place St. Martin, dej. or D. 'i}l-iiT. (incl. wine). — Cafes. 
Du Grand-Balcon, Kue St. Pierre 50; de Madrid, see above; de VEdtel- 
de-Ville^ des Voyageurt, Place de la E^publique. 

Cabs. Per drive 1 fr., per hr. 2 fr., each additional V* ^^- 50 c. ; V2 fr. 
more at night (11-7). — Luggage, 25 c. per package. 

Electric Tramways (comp. Plan). 1. From the Gare de VOuest (PI. F, 5) 
to the Gare St. Martin (PI. B, 2); 2. From the Gare de VOuest to the Rue 
Dicoqiiet (PI. A, 2); 3. From the Octroi de Fala^se (comp. PI. E, 6) via the 
Rue de Vaucelles to the Maladrerie (comp. PI. A, 2); 4. From the Pont de 
Courtonne (PI. E, 3) to Venoix (comp. PI. A, 3). Fares, 1st class 15 c, 2nd 
cl. 10 c; correspondance (at the Place St. Pierre) 5 c. more. 

Post & Telegraph Offices at the Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 3) and the Rue 
de la Marine (PI. E, 4). 

Baths. Bains de la Ville, Rue Daniel Huet 4 (PI. C, 4): Bains Catillon. 
Rue St. Louis 14. ' 

Steamboat daily to Le Havre from the Quai de Juillet (PI. F, 4; see 
p. 141). V » » 

British Vice-Consul, Chas. Hettier, Rue Guilbert 27 (PI. D, 4, E, 3). 

English Church (St. MichaeVs), Rue IHchard-Lenoir (left bank of the 
canal); services at 10.30 & 3.30 (3 in winter). —Mission Service at 7 p. m. 
at the British Seamen''s Institute, Quai Vendoeuvre (PI. E, 3). — French 
Protestant Church (PI. C, 2), Rue de Geole 41, 

Stndicat d'Initiative du Calvados, Rue de Bernieres 10 (PI. D, 3). 

Crtcn, the chief town of the department of Calvados, with 44,442 
inhab., and next to Rouen the most interesting town in Normandy, 



170 Route 23. CAEN. St. Pierre. 

is situated on the Orne, ahout 9 M. from the coast, with which it is 
connected by a canal, a railway (p. 175), and a steam-tramway (p. 175). 
Caen, mentioned as Cadomum in the early part of the 11th cent., first 
rose to importance in the time of William the Conqueror, under whom 
were built the castle and the two abbeys whose beautiful churches are 
still the chief ornaments of the town. In 1346 Caen, at that time 'a city 
greater than any in England save London', was taken and pillaged by Ed- 
ward III. of England; and Henry V. again captured it in 1417. France 
did not succeed in finally wresting it from the English until 1450. Caen 
suffered much in the religious wars of France and was well-nigh ruined 
by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. In 1793 Caen was the 
focus of the Girondist movement against the Convention; and it was from 
this town that Charlotte Corday, born in the neighbourhood, set out to 
assassinate Marat. Auber (1782-1871), the composer, and Malherbe (1555-1628), 
the poet, were natives of Caen. Beau Brummel (consul at Caen) lies buried 
in the Protestant Cemetery, Rue du Magasin-a-Poudre (PI. C, 1). 

The celebrated Quarries of Caen stone, which have for centuries af- 
forded excellent building-material for the churches and other important 
edifices of France and England, lie to the W. and S. of the town. 

On leaving the station (PI. F, 5) we turn to the right, take the 
first street to the right again, which leads under the railway and 
over the Orne, and so reach the handsome Monument of the Sons of 
Calvados, commemorating the war of 1870-71. In the Rue St. Jean 
(PL D, 5-3), beginning at the farther end of the Place, which we 
now follow, rises (on the right) the church of St. Jean (PI. D, 4), 
of the 14-15th cent., with two elegant hut unfinished towers (16th 
cent.). The church is unfortunately much hidden by the adjoining 

houses. 

There are several interesting old houses in the Rue St. Jean, among ^ 
them (No. 214) the Hdtel de Beuvron (16th cent.) and (between Nos. 20 and 24) 1 
the H6tel de Than (16th cent.), and in the adjacent Rue des Carmes and 
Rue Guilbert. The Hotel de Bras (ca. 1580), No. 27 in the last-named street, 
is now the British vice-consulate. 

*St. Pierre (PL D, 3), in the boulevard of the same name, is a 
most interesting example of Gothic architecture, though dating from 
various epochs from the 13th to the 16th century. The chapels and 
the turret of the *Apse, both very elaborately decorated, were added 
in the Renaissance period. The most striking feature is the '^ Tower 
(245 ft.), to the right of the main portal, a masterpiece of the bold 
and graceful style of art which prevailed at the beginning of the 14th 
century. The spire is pierced, and its base is surrounded by eight 
small turrets. There is a portal in the side of the tower, but the 

church has no transepts. 

The interior inclines slightly to the left beyond the choir. The 
capitals of the massive pillars in the nave are carved with a curious mis- 
cellany of sacred, profane, and grotesque subjects. (Note especially the 
third capital on the left.) The end of the nave centres on a single pillar, 
the usual termination being one on each side. The vaulting and keystones 
of the E. half of the nave are noteworthy. The ornamentation ot the hve 
* Chapels of the apse is especially lavish, including unusually large key- 
stones and modern stained glass. 

In the Place St. Pierre, opposite the church, is the Exchange, 
formerly the Hotel Le Valois or d'Ecoville (1538), which has a 
charming court, with elaborate sculptures. ■% 



La Trinite. CAEN. 23. Route. 171 

On an eminence beyond St. Pierre are situated the remains of 
the Castle (P1.C,D,2; no adm.) begun by WiUiam the Conqueror 
and finished by Henry I., and several times altered. It is now 
used as barracks, and presents few points of interest. 

In the Rue de Geole (Nos. 17, 28, 31) and in the picturesque quarter 
between the church of St. Pierre and the castle are many quaint old 
houses : Place du Marche-au-Bois, Rue Monfoir-Poissonnerie (Nos 10 & 12 
15th cent.), and Rue Porte- au-Berger. The Rue des Chanoines (PI D e' 
2; Gothic turret at No. 29) leads to the former church of St. Oilles (Pi' e' 
2), dating from the Uth cent, but rebuilt in the 14th. ' ' 

*La Trinite (PI. E, F, 2), the church of the Ahhaye-aux-Dames, 
was founded in 1062 by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, 
' while the latter at the same time founded the church of the Abbaye- 
aux-Hommes (p. 172), as an expiation of the sin they had com- 
mitted in marrying within the forbidden degrees of consanguinity. 
La Trinity, with the exception of one chapel on the right of the 
choir, in the Transition style, is Norman-Romanesque ; it was skil- 
fully restored in the 19th century. Two square towers rise on the 
I W. facade and another from the transepts ; all three, long deprived 
I of their spires, were provided with balustrades in the 18th century, 
i The interior is no less striking. The nave only is open to the public ; 
it has smaU galleries surmounting the aisles. For admission to the 
transept and to the crypt beneath the choir application must be made 
at the Hotel-Dieu (50 c. each pers.). The choir is reserved for the 
nuns who manage the Hotel-Dieu, but it is visible from the transept 
(through the grille). 

The Hotel-Dieu or Hospital (PI. F, 2), adjoining the church, is 
established in the former nunnery, rebuilt in the 18th century. The 
nuns of La Trinite' were generaUy daughters of noble families and 
enjoyed considerable privileges. The abbess was known as Madame 
de Caen. Visitors are admitted. The extensive park contains a 
maze around a mound which commands an attractive view. 

We retrace our steps to St. Pierre, and then follow the Rue St. 
Pierre (PI. C, D, 3), in which are several old houses (Nos. 18, 20, 
52, 54, 75, 80), some with 15th cent, wood-carving. Farther on is 
8t. Sauveur (PI. C, 3), consisting of two naves placed side by 
side, the one on the right dating from the 15th cent., the one 
ion the left ('de St. Eustache') from the Uth. These are terminated 
by a richly decorated apse of 1546. There is a handsome belfry 
and spire of the Uth cent., and the S. door has carved wooden 
panels of the 15th century. 

The Rue Froide, skirting the church, passes the end of the Rue 
de la Monnaie, in which are the remains of several ancient buildings 
{Hotel de la Monnaie of 1531, Hotel Duval de Mondrainville of 
[1549, etc.), and leads to the Palais de VUniversite (Fh C,2), which 
T^was partly rebuilt and considerably enlarged in the last century. 
It contains a Natural History Museum (adm. Sun., 12-3 or 4) the 
thnographical collections of Dumont d'Urville (p. 188) and a 



172 Route 23. CAEN. St. Etienne. 

library of 146,696 volumes. In front of it, in the Rue Pasteur, are 
"bronze statues of Malherbe (p. 170), by the elder Dantan, and' 
Laplace (1749-1827; a native of Calvados), the mathematician, by 
Barre. — Near the University are the modern Gothic Benedictine 
Churchy attached to a convent, and the Promenade St. Julien. — 
At the W. end of the Rue Pasteur is the Place St. Sauveur, in which j 
is another church of St. Sauveur (PI.B,2, 3), dating from the 12th, | 
14th, and 18th cent., now a corn-market. On the right side of the 
square rises the Palais de Justice (18th cent,). In the centre is a 
bronze statue, by L. Rochet, of Elie de Beaumont (1798-1874), the 
geologist, a native of the department. 

The Rue Ecuyere (old houses at Nos. 9 and 42) and the Rue 
Guillaume-le-Conquerant, continuing the Rue St. Pierre to the W., 
lead to — 

*St. Etienne or St. Stephen (PI. A, B, 3), the church of the Ab- 
haye-aux-Hommes^ founded by William the Conqueror at the same i 
date as La Trinity (p. 171). St. Etienne is in the same style as La] 
Trinite, though larger, but its unity of style was destroyed by alter- 
ations in the 13th cent., when the choir was rebuilt in the Pointed style. 
It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory view of the church, on account of 
the buildings which hem it infapse, see p. 173). TheW. facade, with two 
elegant towers of the 13th cent., 295 ft. high, is remarkably plain; 
and the interior also, like that of La Trinite, is distinguished by its 
dignified simplicity. The aisles here too are provided with galleries; 
the N. aisle is adjoined by a Gothic chapel added in the 14th century J 
The transepts are shallow and have no doorways. A lantern-tower 
of the 17th cent, replaces the pyramidal spire, 400 ft. high, which 
formerly surmounted the crossing. A black marble slab in front of 
the high-altar marks the tomb of William the Conqueror (d. 1087) ; 
but the bones of the monarch were rudely scattered by the Hugue- 
nots in 1562, and again in 1793, so that the tomb is now empty. 
The sacristy, itself an interesting specimen of architecture, contains 
an ancient portrait of the Conqueror. Other noteworthy features are 
the choir-stalls, the carved clock-case in the N. transept, the pulpit, 
and the organ-case, supported by columns. 

Professor Freeman writes as follows of this highly interesting church, 
which he describes as perhaps the noblest and most perfect work of its 
time. 'The choir has given way to a later creation; but the nave of Wil- 
liam and Lanfranc is still there, precisely such a nave as we should expect 
to arise at the bidding of William the Great. Erected at the moment when 
the Romanesque of Normandy had cast aside the earlier leaven of Bernay 
and Jumieges, and had not yet begun to develop into the more florid 
style of Bayeux and Saint Gabriel, the church of William, vast in scale, 
bold and simple in its design, disdaining ornament, but never sinking into 
rudeness, is indeed a church worthy of its founder. The minster of Ma- 
tilda (La Trinite; seep. 171), far richer, even in its earliest parts, smaller 
in size, more delicate in workmanship, has nothing of that simplicity and 
grandeur of proportion which marks the work of her husband. The one 
is the expression in stone of the imperial will of the conquering Duke; 
the other breathes the true spirit of his loving and faithful Duchess', 
{'■Norman ConquesV, Vol. iii, p. 109). 



Antiquarian Museum. CAEN. 23. Route 173 

I 

„ A little to the N. of this point is the former C/mrc/i o/"*5<. xVicoias 

il (PI- A, 2), built in 1083-93, and now used for storing hay. The apse 

and transept may he seen from the cemetery. Mr. Fergusson be- 

Ueves it to be the only church in Normandy that retains the original 

covering of the apse, consisting of a lofty pyramidal roof of stone. 

Ihe Abbaye-aux-Hommes was rebuilt in the 18th cent and is 

now occupied by the Lycee Malherhe (PI. A, 3). To reach the' facade 

which IS turned away from the church, we retrace our steps to the 

Palais de Justice, and enter the Place du Pare, to the right, where 

there is a bronze Statue of Louis XIV., hy the younger Petitot. From 

this point the admirable apse of St. Etienne (p. 172) is best seen. 

i -loe Lycee contains several handsome rooms fvisitors admitted"! Thp 

T^'Sn?of u' M^'^'^.r P'-^"^"^^ ^^^^ «^^ and^dorned wUh^^Snting'^s' 
nf fhP ihhl • ^(^^»S{a^rcase was executed by a monk.-Another portion 
ot the abbey is occupied by the neighbouring Ecole Normale d'lmtitutrices. 
In the Rue de Caumont, leading E. from the Place du Pare, is 
the OidC/mrcfto/'^^E^jmne (PI. B, 3), of the 15th century. No. 33, 
,5 nearly opposite, formerly a Jesuit college, contains the Antiquarian 
' Museum (PI. B, 3), open to the public on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4 hut 
accessible to strangers on other days also. 

ohiPM^,''^!^! *?-^ <=o"ections are not large, they contain some interesting 
inTiLh il % ^° antique bronze tripod; Merovingian ornaments, found 
ieiHfvTn uv ^^«°S^ goblet called 'William the Conqueror^s', but in 
ll^il eS;^"frl6t^%tVry' ^' *^^ '''^ -^*-' ^^ ^^^^^-^^ 
The Rue St. Laurent, running to the S. from the end of the Rue 
Caumont, leads to Notre Dame or La Gloriette (PI. B, C, 3), a church 
. bmlt by the Jesuits in 1684, and to the Prefecture. 

Opposite the Pre'fecture is an ancient seminary (17th cent.l now 
^f occupied as the Hotel de Villa (PI. C, 3). The entrance is on the 
E side, m the Place de la Republique (PI. C, 3). The *Mu8ee, in the 
left wmg of the Hotel de Yille, is open to the public on Sun. and 
Ihurs., 11-4 or 5, other days on application (50 c. • ring at the door! 
auero^ nf/'T/^^ ^!v ^- '^- ^"''^^^^^^ The burial of William the Con- 
iSv di^.o^L?!!? 4^^ *^' ^^'^'^ ^^'^^^ ^f t^« «"il' ^^0 had been un- 
C! m/m:n";1th'\i??hi?dren^^*^ '^^ *'^ ^'"^^^ '^' '''''^ '''■ ^'^' '^ 

(unfiniTedV- S^^'^'SoS-^* ^^ ^'"' ^^J- ^«^«« Gerard, Death of Patroclus 
of LairT oq'n J?' ;.^ *<?' ^^^"^^^^^^ 329. Sauvage, Death of Bishop Gaudry 
sLw «ftl *^^-o?r't'^',-^^*P'^^^' - 297. Mallebranche (of Caen, 17e0-1838) 
(^rnJ l^^'' ^^•- ^•/^"f'' Portrait after death of Feyen-Perrin- 248^' 
Zc^ 'irrZa^l i,^%9/-f."-cision at Cairo. - bciS. Tatteg^ainXt 

feg^rar^^MidiLtrii^r^^" ''''''• - '^ *^^ -"^-' ^2. fXvS^;^ 

i p;JT'f' ^r ^?o*^"" Robustien; 333.'jry.^cA.ir.rrDr Duval above 



174 Route 23. CAEN. Musee. 

the Sea, Orientals; 341. Thirion, St. S^verin; 228. Chariran, The wax-taper; 
323. Th. Ribot, The oyster and the litigants. — 125. C.Bega^ Landscape; 
85, 84. Boudewyns and Bouts^ Landscapes ; 137. Moucheron^ Landscape. — 78. 
/. (lArthois, Landscape; 177. Parrocel, Sobieski relievinp, Vienna; 138. 
Mor/aert, Continence of Scipio; 86. Bosschaert, Portrait; 139. Van Romeyn, 
Landscape and animals; 141. Van der Lamen (not Stevens), Dancing, — 
142. Zustris, Baptism of Christ; 109. Quellin the Elder, The Virgin present- 
ing a stole to St. Hubert; 129. Benner, Head of an old man; 144. Qerman 
School of the I&th Gent., Atropos; 128. Cornells van Haarlem, Venus and 
Adonis ; 83. Van Bloemen, Italian landscape; 135. Q&rard de Lairesse, Con- 
version of St, Augustine; 133. Eondecoeter, Hen and chickens; 132. Van 
den Tempel (not Van der Heist), Portrait; 99. B. Flemalle, Adoration of the 
Shepherds; 101. Franck the Younger, Slaves to the passion of love; 95. Ph. 
de Champaigne, Head of Christ; -112. Rubens, Bacchanal; 126. A. Boonen 
(? ; not F. Bol), Portrait of a magistrate ; 97. Van Dyck (V), Communion of 
St. Bonaventura; 103. Jordaens, A beggar ; 114. F. Snyders, Interior of an 
oftice; '100. F. Floris, Portrait (1558); 110. Rubens, Melchisedec and Abra- 
ham; 119. P. de Vos (?), Fight between dogs and a bear; 104. Van der 
Meulen, Passage of the Rhine; 111. D. Mytens (not Rubens), Portrait, suppos- 
ed to be of James I of England ; Ph. de Champaigne, 92. Vow of Louis XIIL, ^ 
94. The Samaritan Woman, 93. Annuaciation; *121. School of Bruges of I 
the end of the 15th Cent., Virgin and three saints. —79. '■Velvet' Brueghel and ' 
Van Balen, The four elements; above the door, 182. J. Restout, Washing 
of the feet. — In the middle, 6. Gayrard, Daphnis and Chloe (marble). 

R. IV. 120. Flemish School of the 17th Cent., St. Sebastian ; 13. Cerquozzi{7), 
Gipsies playing cards. — 62. Genoese School of the 17th Cent., Apollo and 
Marsyas; 47. Strozzi. Mercury and Argus; 67. Lombard School of the 17th 
Cent., St. Jerome; 41. A. del Sarto (?), St. Sebastian; 30. Panini, Reception 
of the knights of the Holy Ghost at Versailles; 63. Neapolitan School of 
the 17th Cent., Man snapping his lingers; *53. P. Veronese, Judith; Byzantine 
School {on panel), 1. St. Theodore, 2. St. Demetrius; 5. Umbrian School, SS. ; 
Paul and Nicholas (on panel); 35. Perugino, St. Jerome; 56. P. Veronese, ; 




Neapolitan School of the 17th Cent., St. Sebastian; 21. Guercino, Dido. — 48 
Tiepolo, Ecce Homo; 49. Tintoretto, Descent from the Cross; 15. Cima da 
Conegliano, yirgin, St. George, and St. Rochus (tryptych); 11. Cei-quozzi, . 
Flowers; **34. Perugino, Marriage of the Virgin; 9. Carpaccio (?), Madonna! 
and Child; 54. P. Veronese, Temptation of St. Anthony; 52. Vecchietta, An- 
nunciation; 12. Cerquozzi, Fruit; 22. Guercino, Virgin and Child. — 58. 
Vitale da Bologna, Madonna; 60. Italian School of the 16th Cent., Entomb- 
ment; 55. P. Veronese, Flight into Egypt; 20. Guercino, Coriolanus. — In 
the centre, Marble bust of RouUand, by Guillaume. 

R. V. 82, *81, *80. Van Bloemen, Landscapes. — 74. Ribera (?), 24. Lan- 
franchi, Heads of apostles. — 76. Zurbaran (?), St. Clara; 89. Brueghel (?), 
Flemish festival; 70. Murillo (?), The Redeemer; 72. School of Ribera, The 
Crown of Thorns. — 173. School of Le Sueur, Christ and the scribes. — 
In the centre, 17. Schoenewerk, Child and tortoise (marble). — From this 
room we ascend to the Collection Mancel (p. 175). 

R. VI. 151. Bourguigiion, Battle-field; 160. Jouvenet, Fr. Romain, the 
architect; 310. J. Nourry, Portrait of himself; 205. Unknown Master of the 
17th Cent., Malherbe; 168. Ch.LeBrun, Daniel in the lions' den; 145. School 
of Fr. Boucher, Mercury entrusting Bacchus to the nymphs; 183. Restout, 
Baptism of Christ ; 159. Galloche, Roland discovering the love of Angelica 
and Medoro. — 171. Le Sueur, Solomon before the Ark; 176. Oudry, Dogs \ 
and boars. — '184. E. Rigaud, Marie Cadenne; 153. De Fontenay, Portrait;- ' 
174 /. B. Martin, The siege of Besancon; 185. E. Rigaud, Portrait; R. 
roMrwier«« (of Caen), 190. Chapelle and Racine, *19l. Portrait, "192. Audran, 
the engraver, 193. Brodon, the sculptor; 187, 186. E. Rigaud {1), Portraits; 
181. E. Restout (of Caen), Portrait of a canon of Pr^montre (comp. p. 75); 
163. S. Julien, Tithonus and Aurora; 170. CI. Lefivre, Portrait of a magis- 
trate; *169. Ch. Le Brun, Baptism of Christ; 175. Nattier (?), Marquis 



, 



Library. CAEN. 23. Route, lib 

(i'Argenson. — 162. /. Jouvenel 0) , Apollo and Tethys; 179. Pouttin, Death 
of Adonis; 161. J. Jouvenet^ St. Peter healing the sick. Above the door 
147. S. Bourdon., Minerva protecting the arts. — In the centre 5. Etex' 
Nizzia; 15. Moreau-Vauthier, Bather (marbles). ' " ' 

The "Mancel Collection on the 2nd floor (open Tues., Thurs &. Sun 
1-4) contains a library, engravings (594 by Diirer, 248 by Rembrandt, 973 
l)y Callot), and f^ome valuable paintings including: 1. Cosimo Tura (not Man- 
tegna), St. James the Great; 16. A. van Ostade, Tavern scene- 17 S van 
liuysdael, Landscape (1661); 19. Teniers (? ; not C. Saftleven) , 'slaughtered 
pig; 20. /. Duck, Family concert; 21. L. van Uden, Snow-scene; 22 / 
^".1*<;^^S^0 ^iP^^f?; 23. Van Dyck (?), Portrait (1630) ; 24. J. Weenix, Por^ 
trait (lt)88); 26. D Hondecoeter, Still-life; 32. Van Goyen, Landscape (1631)- 
d4. Tenters (not Brouwer), Topers; 37. Bolognese School (not P van Mol) 
Death of St. Francis of Assisi; 41. P. van Slingelandt, Portrait; 50. Memling 
(not Hub. van Eyck), Madonna and Child ; 60. Watteau, 'Conversation galante". 
The Library^ also in the Hotel de Ville, in part of the former 
chapel of the seminary, contains about 120,000 vols., 109 incuna- 
bula, and 664 MSS., besides portraits of illustrious natives of Nor- 
mandy and a copy of the celebrated Bayeux tapestry (p. 164). 

In the Place Gambetta (PL C, 4), to the S. of the Hotel de Ville, 
is the modern Gendarmerie, opposite the facade of which is the Musie 
Langlois (Sun. and Thurs., 11-4), containing paintings by Col. Lang- 
lois. — Farther to the S. are the fine promenades known as the Cours 
Sadi-Carnot (Vh C, D, 4, 5) and the Grand-Cours (band on Sun. & 
Thurs.), which skirt the Prairie in which is the Hippodrome or race- 
course (races on the first Sun., Mon., and Tues. in August). 

About 1/2 M. to the E., at Rue Basse 201, is the Manoir de Nollent 
or des Gens-d'Armes (PI. G, 3; 16th cent.), a picturesque ruined 
edifice, so called from two statues of armed men on the main tower. 
The towers and connecting wall are ornamented with curious old 
medallions, and the main tower still retains a fine grated window. 

The interesting, but somewhat remote Jardin des Plantes (PI. B, i ; 

open all day) contains numerous hothouses, important herbaria, etc. 

About 21/2 M. to the W. of Caen are the remains of the Abbaped'Ar- 

^^2^^ founded in 1121 (fine 14th cent, church) and now incorporated in 

From Caen to JyivEs-GABovRG (Trouville). 1. Railway (20 M., in 3/4-lV4hr ) 
from the Gare de 1 Quest via (ISVz M.) DozuU-Putot, where we ioln the 

Rnn/'^f'p^'^'^^r? ^P- ^o^l\,-.?.' /r.«"»«'«y (15V2 M., in I3/4 hr.) from the 
Boul. St. Pierre (fares 3, 21/4, IV2 fr.) via Binouville (p. 156). 

qi/ 1^?^P''^''kI'' ?^ w^^.lf^^ ^^'^ ^- 27), 281/2 M., steam-tramway in 
31/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 5, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 75 c). 

In qu'^^w ^.''^''rj'' ^^i^r^^^^A ""-J^i^"^ andFolligny, 82 M., railway 
in 31/2-41/3 hrs. (fares 15 fr., 10 fr. 15, 6 fr. 55 c). 51/2 M Verson; 11 M. 
Noyers;ilM. Villers-Bocage (Hot. des Trois-Rois). The line now torses 
line undulating and wooded district known us the Socage. 3OV2 M La 
LflMoce (p. 16a). From (33 M.) Ouilberville a branch-line diverges to (16 M.) 
^i'a ^l' v?^ r~ ^^^- M- /»•'•«, and thence to (82 M.) Granville, see pp. 180, 
<4 ; Tk^W^'''.^*^^'' ^^^ ^*- ^^"' 92 M., railway in 41/3-63/4 hrs. (16 fr 90 
JLL« ^^' ^ ''• ^^ 'dn '^^ ^^^'^' ^-l ^■*^"' ''" PP- ^65162 ; thence to (65 S ) 
S^qTm ', T P- -IF'' t^«°^« 10 (821/2 M.) Folligny, see p. 177; and thence 
to (y4, M.) Granville, see p. 179. 

D o.F''^™ ^*,^° *" Luc- stir -Mer, see p. 156; to Cherbourg and Paris, see 
and Zat>rt/ scTr J^'^^^' *°^ ^^ ^"'**' *®® ^ 26; to Domfront, Mayenne, 



176 

24. From Cherbourg to Brest. 

(Oranville, Mont St. Michel, St. Malo.) 

261 M. Railway in 1372 hrs. (fares 51 fr. 95, 38 fr. 95, 28 fr. 60 c.). - 
To Granville, changing carriages at Folligny (p. 179), 84 M., in 474 nrs. 
(fares 15 fr 45 10 fr. 45, 6 fr. 75 c). — To Mont St. Michel. Railway to 
(99V2M.) Pontorson in 572 hrs. (p. 178; fares 19 fr. 95, 14 fr. 95, 10 fr. 95 c.); 
thence by steam -tramway or carriage (7 or 57"^ M- ; see p. lyy)- — ;^o 
St. Malo, changing carriages at Dol (p. 204; halt of 1 hr. 40 min.), 127V2 M. 
in 91/2 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 45, 19 fr. 10, 13 fr. 5 c). — Considerable halts at 
one or more intermediate stations on all these routes. 

To (12 M.) Sottevast, see p. 161. — The line diverges to the S., 
traversing an undulating and wooded district. 

17M.BricquebecrT^ieMX-C/iaf6aw;, a small town with an imposing 
ruined Castle of the 14-16th cent., near which rises a hronze statue, 
by Oanova, of General Lemarois (1776-1836), a native of the town. 

221/2 M- Nehou. — 25 M. St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte (Hot. des 
Yoyageurs) is commanded by the ruins of a chateau and an abbey, 
dating from the lO-Uth centuries. — 33 M. La Haye-da-Puits (Hot. 
du Commerce; Champagne), with an old ruined castle, see p. 162. 

36 M. Angoville-sur-Ay. — 881/2 M. Lessay, with a fine abbey- 
church (lith cent.), is the station for the small sea -baths of 
St. Germain-sur-Ay , 8^/4 M. to the N.W. Narrow-gauge line to 
Coutances, see p. 177. ~ 441/2 M. Periers, with an interesting church 
(14-16th cent.). Beyond (481/2 M.) St. Sauveur-Lendelin we join 
the line from Lison (p. 162). 

57 M. Coutances (Buffet; Hot. de France, R. from 21/2, D. 3 fr.; 
d'Angleterre, D. 3 fr. ; de la Gare; du Dauphin), a picturesquely 
situated town with 6824 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, is of 

ancient origin. . , , , 

Its name is derived from Constantius Chlorus, who is believed to have 
fortified it in the third century. It suffered much from the incursions ot 
the Normans, as well as subsequently in the English wars. From 141/ 
till 1449 it was occupied by the English. The Huguenots captured Cou- 
tances in 1561, 1563, 1565, and 1566. 

The most conspicuous building is the fine Gothic ^Cathedral, 
dating in great part from the 13th cent., with a grand Fagade, 
flanked by two towers, and a beautiful central Tower of great bold- 
ness, which forms a fine lantern in the interior. Ruskin singles 
out the W. towers of this church as showing one of the earliest 
examples (if not the very earliest) of the fully developed spire, and 
points out 'the complete domesticity of the work ; the evident treat- 
ment of the church-spire merely as a magnified house-roof. The 
tower should be ascended both for inspecting it and for the view 
from the top, which embraces St. Malo and the island of Jersey. 

In the interior the chief points of interest include the trifonum and 
the beautiful rose-windows in the nave, the double ambulatory in the 
choir, with its coupled columns, the Gothic high-altar of 175o-57, and some 
Gothic bas-reliefs in the last chapel on the right before the choir. 

Beside the cathedral is a Monument to Admiral Tourville (1642- 



AVRANCHES. U. Route. 177 

1701). A little to the S. E. is the simple and attractive Gothic Church 
of St. Pierre, reconstructed after 1494 and containing finely carved 
choir-stalls and some good glass; and to the N.E. is St. Nicolas 
(1620-22, with 13th cent, portal), another highly interesting church. 
— Behind the small Musee is a fine Public Garden, in the suburb 
beyond which is a ruined Aqueduct of 1232, rebuilt in 1595. 
m ^^?,^ SP^Jt^S^® "^^ Lessay, ca. 20 M., narrow-gauge railway via (5 M.) 
TourvtUe, (6 M.) Agon, and the sea-bathing places of Coutainville (V/-! M • 
Hot. Beau-Ilivage), Pirou, and Criances. '' 

From (61 V2 M.) Orval-Hyenville a branch -line runs to Regniville 
(572 M.) via the sea-bathing resort of Montmartin. Beyond (631/2 M.) 
Quettreville the Sienne is crossed. — 67 M. Cerences (p. 179). 

741/2 M. Folligny (buffet) is the junction of the line from' Paris 
to GranviUe (R. 25). — Beyond (82 M.) Montviron-Sartilly we catch 
a glimpse of Mont St. Michel to the right. The See is crossed. 

851/2 M. Avranches. - Hotels. Gkand-Hotel de Feance et dk 
LoNDEES, R. 3-5, D. 31/2 fr., good; d'Angleteeee, R. 3, D. 3J/2 f r eood- 
BONNEAU DE lOdest, at the station, R. 2, D. 3 fr. - CaA du Grand 
Balcon, Rue de la Constitution. — Omnibus from the station 45 c, at night 
60 c with luggage 60 or 80 c. Electric Tramway from the Gare de TOuest 
to the Gare St. James, 30 c. (down 10 c). 1 "uest 

English Church {St. Michaefs), Rue Bouillant, services at 10.30 and 6- 
chaplain, Rev. A. C. Bates. "^ ", 

Avranches, one of the oldest towns in Normandy," with 7360 in- 
hab., is picturesquely situated on a hill on the left bank of the See 
commanding an exquisite and justly famed *View of the Bay of St' 
Michel. The direct footpath to the town ascends to the right from 
the station, but carriages must make a detour to the left. 

The name of the town is derived from the Abrincatui, who are men- 
tioned by Pliny. The bishopric of Avranches was probably founded in the 
6th century. From 1421 till 1450 the town was occupied by the English 
Avranches suffered severely at the hands of the Huguenots; and in 1591 
it stubbornly resisted the troops of Henri IV, on the ground that he was 
a Protestant. In July, 1629, the revolt of the Nu-Pieds ovVrmedriZ. 
of the peasantry against the 'Gabelle', broke out at Avranches. The rising 
was put down with relentless cruelty. rising 

Avranches at one time possessed a beautiful Norman-Gothic 
cathedral, but this was destroyed in 1790, and only a few shapeless 
ruins in front of the Sous-Pre'fecture are left to recall it. An inscrip- 
tion on a broken column indicates the spot where Henry II of 
England did humble penance in 1172 for the murder of Thomas 
Becket. The Place commands a fine view. The Public Garden, to the 
jright, farther on, contains a marble statue, by CartelUer, of General 
yalhubert (1764-1805), who was born at Avranches. The new 
Patau de Justice replaces the old one (originally the Bishop's Palace) 
Which was burned down in 1899. Notre-Dame-des-Champs (fine 
[Stained-glass windows) and St. Saturnin are modern Gothic churches • 
m. Gervais, nearer the centre of the town, dates from the 17th century' 
Ihe interesting Jardin des Plantes (good view) is entered from the 
iw. side of the square in front of Notre-Dame. 

Narrow-gauge railway to GranviUe and Sourdeval^ see p. 179. 

Baedeker\s Northern France. 5th Edit. ' -[2 



178 Route 25. GRANVILLE. 

Beyond Avranch^iS the railway recrosses the Se'e, and beyond 
(90 M.) Fontaubault it crosses the Selune by a lofty bridge (branch- 
line to Vire via Mortain, see p. 180), — 95 M. Servon-Tanis. 

991/2 M. Pontorson. Pontorson and Mont St. Michel, see p. 199. 
Railway to Fougeres and Vitre, see p. 223. 

Our line crosses the river Couesnon^ the boundary between Nor- 
mandy and Brittany. — 113 M. Del (Buffet), the junction of the 
line from St. Malo to Rennes (see p. 204). At (121 M.) Miniac- 
Morvan a branch-line diverges to La Gouesniore-Cancale (seep. 202). 
Beyond (124 M.) Pleudihen and again beyond f I26I/2 M.) La Hisse 
the railway crosses the picturesque valley of the Ranee (p. 201) by 
viaducts, 100 ft. in height. 

I3OV2 M. Dinan, see p. 202. 

136 M. Corseul,an important strategic point held by the Romans, 
is identified with the capital of the Curiosilites or the Fanum Martis 
of the Theodosian Itinerary. — 141 1/2 M. Plancoet (Hot. des Yoya- 
geurs), pleasantly situated in the valley of the Arguenon. 

From Plancoet a diligence plies to tlie N. to (6 M.) Si. Jacut- de-la- Mer, 
while a narrow-gauge railway runs to the N.W. to (12 M.) Ile-St-Cast 
(55 min. ; 1 fr, 45 c, 1 fr.). — St. Jaeut-de-Ia-Mer (H6t. des Bains; Convent 
Pension) 'is a small seaport and bathing-resort, near which are the Pierres 
Sormantes de St. Jacut, rocks which emit a resonant note when struck. — 
The narrow-gang? railway passes (41/2 M.) Le Quildo, near the picturesque 
ruined Ghdteau de Guildo, and (8 M.) Matignon (Hot. des Voyageurs). IOV2 M. 
St. Cast is the station for La Garde-St-Cast (Hdt. de la Plage; Bellevue), 
a rising bathing-place with a sandv beach. To the N.W. of St. Cast are 
the old Fort de la Latte and the Cap Fr&hel, with jQne cliff scenery (steamer 
from St. Malo, see p. 194). 12 M. Jle-St-Cast lies near the Pointe de St. Cast. 

1481/2 M. Landebia. The train now traverses a wood. 
156 M. Lamhalle, and thence to Brest, see pp. 224-229. 

25. From Granville to Paris. 

204 M. Railway (Chemin de Per de VOuest, Rive Gauche) in 53/4- 10 hrs. 
(fares 36 fr. 85, 24 fr. 90, 16 fr. 25 c). Restaurant-cars (see p. xvii). — To 
Mont St. Michel, see p. 179. Comp. the Map, p. 66. — From Southampton 
via Jersey to Granville, see p. xiv. 

Granville. — Hotels. Grand-Hotel, Rue Couraye 15, at the begin- 
ning of the lower town, R. from 3, B. IV4, dt^j. 3, T>. 81/2, pens, from 8V2, 
omn. 1/2 fr., well spoken of; Gkand- Hotel du Nokd et des Teois- 
CouRONNES, Rue Lecampion, in the lower town, near the harbour, R. 
from 3, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 9, omn. 1/2 fr.; Hot. des Bains, 
Rue des Juifs, near the beach; Houllegatte, Rue du Cours-Jonville 26,^ 
R 2V2-3V2, dej. 3, D. 3'/2, pens. 71/281/2, omn. 1/2 fr.; de Paris, Rue du| 
Cours-Jonville 9, R. from 21/2, D. 21/2, pens. 71/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Gautiek, ! 
Rue du Calvaire; d'Angleterre, Rue Couraye 73, R. 272-5, pens. 7-lU, , 
omn. 3/4 fr. — Restaurant du Casino, with terrace on the sea, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. 
(inch wine and adrn.), good; others at the hotels.— Cafide la Ville (with 
theatre), du Commerce, de V Union, all in the Rue Lecampion. 

Cabs. Per drive, 1-3 pers., 1 fr., per hr, 2 fr.; each addit, pers. 25 or 
50 c. — Motor Omnibus Excursions in summer. 

Steamers daily in summer to the (1 hr.) lies Chausey (return-fare 6 fr.); , 
less often to St. Malo (p. 194 •, return 5 fr.) and Cancale (p. 199; return 5 fr.). 
— To Jersey (Southampton), see p. xiv. 

Post & Telegraph Office, Rue Lecampion 9. ' 



GRANVILLE. 1^5. Route. 179 

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 30, costume 50, 'peignoir' 20, towel 10 c. — 
Oasino (open June 25th-Oct. 1st). Adm. 1 fr. ; subs, for a week 8, fortnight 15, 
season 30 fr. 

(iranvUle, a small fortified seaport, with 11,940 inhab., at the 
mouth of the Bosq , is said to have been originally founded in 
the 12th century. The English fortified it in 1640 but lost it 
the following year. They burned it in 1695 and bombarded it 
in 1803. It consists of two distinct parts, viz. the lower town, 
the larger half, between the station and the harbour, and the upper 
town, perched on a steep rock extending into the sea and surround- 
ed by the old fortifications. The street beginning at the station 
leads to the Oours Jonville, whence the Rue Lecampion descends, 
to the left, to the Harbour^ which is frequented by numerous fish- 
ing-boats and a few coasting-vessels. A street diverging from the 
Cours Jonville a little farther on leads to the beach (see below). 

The upper town, reached directly from the harbour, commands 
a fine view. The Church of Notre-Dame was enlarged and restored 
in the Gothic style in the 15-16th centuries. The interior is of 
irregular proportions. A path to the N.E., outside the fortifications, 
leads down to the Beach^ on the opposite side of the town from the 
harbour. The path passes at the end through the ^Tranchee aux 
Anglais\ a narrow passage between two rocks, beyond which is the 
firm sandy beach with the Casino. The women of Granville wear a 
picturesque headdress of white linen. 

From Granville to CoNDii-suR-ViRE (p. 163), new narrow-gauge railway 
via (2 M.) Donville (E6t. ile la Plage, D. 2, pens, from 71/2 fr. 5 Fanny Mdquin), 
a sea-bathing resort, C4rences (p. 177), Percy, and Tessy-sur-Vire. 

From Granville to Avranches. — a. By Railway via Folligny, 2OV2M., 
in I-I1/4 hr. (fares 8 fr. 80, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 70 c), see below and p. 177. — 
lb. By Narrow-gauge Railway, 21 1/2 M., in 2 hrs. (2 fr. 70 c, 2 fr). — 41/2 M. 
St. Pair (Hot. des Bains; de France), an inexpensive bathing- resort, with a 
s;ood beach but a far-receding tide. 7 M. Jttllouville (Casino-Hotel ; Chevalier), 
another sea-side resort. — 8V2 M. Carolles (H6t. Benit, pens. 6 fr. ; des Bains) 
is a village on the top of a cliff, with a good beach below (1 M. away). 
Omn. to Montviron-Sartilly (p. 177). — IIV2 M. St. J ean-le- Thomas. — 15V2 M. 
Oenets. Walkers may cross the bay to Mont 8t. Michel (p. 199) in less than 
an hour (carr. and pair, 2i/ifr. each pers.). — 2IV2 M. Avranches, see p. 177. 

— This line is continued to (2372 M. from Avranches) Sourdeval (p. 180). 

From Granville to Mont St. Michel. 1. Railway to (341/2 M.) Po7>- 
torson and thence tramway to (51/2 M.) Mont St. Michel (p. 199); 2V4-3 hrs. 
in all (return-fares, incl. tramway, 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 85 c). — 2. Railway 
to (91/2 M.) Folligny, see below; thence to Mont St. Michel, see pp. 177, 
178, 199. — 3. In the season an omnibus plies direct from Granville via 
Genets (see above) to Mont St. Michel (return-fare 6 fr.). 

From Granville to Caen, see p. 175. 

On quitting Granville the railway ascends the valley of the Bosq. 

— 6 M. St. Planchers. To the left the line to Coutances (p. 176). 
91/2 M. Folligny (Buffet; Hotels, near the station). 

Railway to Coutances, Pontorson (Mont St. Michel), etc., see pp. 177, 178. 

We cross the pretty valley of the Airou. — 181/2 M. Villedieu- 
les-Poeles, a small tOMn on the Sienne, to the right, contains num- 
erous boiler-works. The church dates from the 15-16th centuries. 

About 6 M. to the N.W. are the ruins of the Abbey of Hanxbye. 



180 Route 25. VIRE. From Granville 

26^/2 M, St. Sever (Hot. des Voyageurs), to the right, with an 
abbey-church, part of which dates from the 13th century. — Farther , 
on we cross the Vire (see below). 

32 M. Vire {Buffet ; Hot. St. Pierre, Cheval Blanc, at both R. 
from 2, D. 3, pens, from 8I/2 ^rOi ^^ ^^^^ town with 6353 inhab., 
picturesquely situated on a hill washed by the river of the same 
name, is an important woollen -manufacturing centre and carries 
on trade in the granite quarried in the neighbourhood. 

The long Rue du Calvados ascends to the right from the station 
to the town. At the top (Y2 M.) , in the Rue aux Fevres (to the 
right), is the square Tour de VHorloge, with a Gothic gateway of 
the 13th cent., flanked by two round crenelated towers. 

To the left, near the end of the Rue de la Saulnerie, rises the 
Church of Notre- Dame, a Gothic structure of the 12-15th cent., with 
double aisles and a central tower. In the interior are a tasteful 
Renaissance doorway and some noteworthy carvings. 

The adjoining Place Nationale is embellished with a bust of 
Chenedolle (1769-1833), a native poet, and with a Monument to 
1789, consisting of a column with a statue of the Republic. 

The scanty ruins of the Chateau, which is said to have been 
founded by Charlemagne, occupy a picturesque situation on the brow 
of a rocky peninsula, dominating the charming valley of the Vire. 

In this valley in the l5th cent, dwelt Olivier Basselin, the fuller, to 
whom are attributed the famous drinking-songs, which, known as 'Vaux 
de Vire", gave origin to the modern term 'Vaudeville'. The real author 
was Jean le Houx, who flourished at the close of the 16th century. 

This part of the town, called the Valherel, possesses the hand- ^ 
some modern Norman Church of St. Anne, with a central tower. 
Paintings and numerous statues adorn the choir and apse. 

The Rue Armand-Gaste, leading hence to the upper town, passes 
through the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, in which rise a bronze statue, 
byDebay, of Castel (1758-1832), another native poet of Vire, and aj 
crenelated Tower. — The Hotel de Ville contains a Library and a 
small Musee (Sun. & Thurs. 2-4; on other days on application} 
of paintings, coins, porcelain, carvings, antiquities, curiosities, etc. 

A branch-railway runs from Vire to (25V2 M.) Romagny via (15 M.) 
Sourdeval (Poste), a small industrial town (thence to Avranches, see p. 179), 
and (23 M.) Mortain-le-Neufbourg, IV4 M. to the IST.W. of Mortain. — Mortain 
(Poste, R. 2-5, pens. 71/2-8 fr,, good ; de la Croix-Blanche) is a picturesquely- 
situated little town, on a rocky eminence rising from the Cance. The Church,^ 
of St. EvrouU is an interesting example of the 13th century. The rocky 
valley of the Cance is attractive, especially above Mortain, at the Petit 
Siminaire, the ancient Abbaye Blanche (1161-81). A good view is obtained 
from the Chapelle St. Michel, on a neighbouring hill. From Romagny to. 
Domfront, see p. 189. — The line proceeds to the W. via (36 M.) St. Hilaire- 
duSarcouet (branch to Fous;eres, p. 223), and joins the railway to Avranches fl 
at (51 M.) Pontaubault (p. 178). jj 

Fine view of Vire, to the right, as we quit the station. — 46 M. i( 
Montsecret- Vassy. 

A branch-railway runs hence to (5 M.) Tinchebray (H6t. du Lion-dWr; 
de la Pie), a small industrial town (3952 inhab.), with manufactures of 



to Paris. ARGENTAN. 25. Route. 181 

hardware. At the battle of Tinchebray in 1106 Henry I. of Eneland 
defeated and captured his elder brother Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy 

53 M Flers (Bu/Tet; Hotel de V Quest; du Gfos-Chene, at the 
station; des Jumelles), a modern cotton-manufacturing town with 
ld,704 inhabitants. The Chateau, part of which dates from the 
Ibth cent., was restored in 1901 and is now used as the town-hall 

Flers IS also a station on the railway from Caen to Laval (see p. 188)'. 

601/2 M. Messei (see p. 188). - 63 M. Briouze (PosteL a little 
town carrying on a trade in cattle and granite 

Sfr^as'^^fr'T^^r S?f''''^'../^^ii^ ?•' '•^"^^y ^° 1-1^4 hr. (fares 
^W.wAJf' i^W "":, ^ol'^' ~ ^ /2 M. Lonlay-le-Tesson, with an abbev- 
Tu^c R 1 A 2 D T?/^*S '^y^ %^\^« Fert^-MacJ (Hot. du Grand- 
lurc K. 11/2-2 , D. 3 fr. ; du Cheval-Noir) , a village with 6488 inhab 

^*Siri?F,lM- -^°f^f"« «f ticking. - 13V. M. Bagnoles-de-?Orne 
{Hot de ILtahhssement-Thermal, pens, from IQ fr.'^ Grand-Bdtd pens from 

rtcT; fo'r^i on /b/ w!''*'; W ^y °.''°.')' ^ ^^°^l«t «it"^t«d in a deep 
rocky gorge on the Vie, a tributary of the Mayenne. It possesses a snl- 

SwebTs \":rf '^T^^ with sedative propertL, beneficial in cases of 
S?if?J 'i^ ^ ^°^^ chalybeate spring. A casino, a park, a lake and 
pretty walks are among the attractions. - I8V2 M. Conterm^ sTi 215 
Attractive and extensive view to the right. — 75 M Ecouche 
beyond which the monotonous plain melts into a pleasant and 
undulating country, with meadows and woods. — The line crosses 
the Orne and follows the valley of that river. 

f? O^Q ^' tT'V*^'' ^^^^'^' ^^^'^ ^'' Trois-Maries, de Normandie, 
j. Z-6, D. 6 fr., both in the Rue de la Chausse'e), the Gallic Araento- 
i^numis a town with 6387 inhab., situated on the Orne. The '^Shurch 
^r St Germain, reached by the Rue de la Chausse'e, dates from the 
ate-(jothic and Renaissance periods. The W. tower is crowned by a 
ienaissance dome, and the tower over the crossing forms a fine in- 
ernal lantern. The nave contains two galleries, with balustrades 
^nd the transepts terminate in apses. The ambulatory is in the 
ienaissance style. The vaulting, the choir-screen, the altars in the 
Hoir and S. transept, and the organ should be noticed 

Near the church, to the S., stands the Hotel de Ville, near which 

Jftfi! "I ^ ^'^ * '"'°^^ ^^"j^"' ^"^' *« *^e left, the old Chateau 
10th cent.), now used as the Palais de Justice. In front of the last 
ift/^QQ^'*^^'f ' ^^^^eUished with a monument in honour of Mezerai 
lblO-«3), the historian, Ch. Eudes d'Houay (1611-99), the surgeon 
fJeanEudes (1601-80), founder of the' kdistes. ' To the ffght 
t the palais is the old church of St. Nicolas (ca. 1600); to the left 
the promenade known as the Cours. 

The Rue du Griffon, diverging from the Rue de la Chausse'e near 
t. Germain, leads to the other side of the town, where are situated 
le large round Tour Marguerite, with a peaked roof, a relic of the 
•rtiflcations, and the Gothic church of St. Martin, in which, however 
e gallery and the balustrade beneath the windows are in the Re- 
iissance style. 

Argentan is also a station on the railway from Caen (Falaisel to AUn- 
n and Le Afans (see R. 26). - Diligence to (15 M.) CarUuZ% 215^ 



182 Route 25. LAIGLE. From Oranville 

From (88 M.) Almeneches a diligence plies to the village of 
Mortrie, 372 M. to the S., near which are the Chateau d'O, a magni- , 
flcent e'dilice of the Renaissance, and the Chateau de Clerai, of a 
somewhat later period. The railway now crosses the Orne. 

901/2 M. Surdon (buffet). Railway to Alen(^on, etc., see R. 26. — 
Beyond (961/2 M.) Nonant-le-Pin the train passes, on the left, St. Ger- 
main- de- Claire feuUle , the church of which (14- 15th cent.) con- 
tains some flne, though mutilated, wood-carving, and several antique 
paintings upon panel. 991/2 M. Le Merlerault (Hot. du Lion-d'Or), 
a great horse-breeding centre. — 106 M. Ste. Qauhurge (buffet). 

A branch-railway runs hence to (22^/2 M.) Mortagne (p. 215), via (12 M.) 
Soligny - la - Trappe , 2V2 M. to the N.E. of which is the monastery of La 
Trappe or La Orande Trappe, in a wild situation near several ponas, 
but otherwise uninteresting (men only admitted). The monastery, founded 
in the 12th cent., was most famous under the Abbe de Ranee (d. 17UU), who 
introduced the rule of strict silence, hard work, and plain fare. Expelled 
at the Revolution, the monks returned in 1815; and m 18di5 the new 
monastery and church were consecrated. The Romanesque chapel was 

added in 1892. , ^ ,, ., ,^ 

Branches from Ste. Gauburge to Bernay and to Le Mesml-Mauger, see 

pp. 167, 165. 

The railway continues to descend the valley of the Bisle, and 

crosses the river twice. 

116 M. Laigle (Buffet; Hot. de V Aigle-d' Or ; du Dauphin), an in- 
dustrial town with 5242 inhab., situated on the Risle, manufuctures 
needles, pins, buckles, etc. The Gothic church of St. Martin, near 
the railway, to the left, has a handsome tower (15th cent.). 

A branch runs from Laigle to (25^/2 M.) Mortagne (p. 215), via the Foret 
du Perche and (Ui/z M.) Tourouvre. — To Conches (Evreux), see p.lbT. 

We cross the Risle and beyond the two branch-railways mentioned 
above traverse the Forest of Laigle. 125 M. Bourth. 

1301/2 M. Verneuil (Hot. du Commerce, D. 3 fr. ; du Sanmon, 
R. 2-4, D. 3 fr.), a town with 4446 inhab., was fortified in the 
12th cent, by Henry I. of England. The battle of Verneuil, Ibught 
in 1424 between the English under the Duke of Bedford and the 
French , resulted in the defeat of the latter. The church of La 
Madeleine, a remarkable edifice of the ll-17th cent., has a lofty and 
elegant Gothic *Tower of 1506-30, to the left of which is a poor porch, 
still bearing the inscription 'Temple de la Raison'. 

Interior (recently restored). Above the Gothic arches of the nave aril 
round arches. Several of the stained-glass windows and various works OW 
art date from the 15th and 16th cent., while some of the more modern 
works are noteworthy. Choir-stalls of the 16th cent. ; interesting iron puxpit. 

In the street to the left as we quit the church is a House of the^ 
15th Cent., with a turret displaying a chequered pattern in stone, 
brick, and flint. The Rue du Canon leads thence to the church of 
SL Lawrence (partly 16th cent.) and the Tour Orise, an aiicient keep 
148 ft. high (small museum; fee). — The church oi Notre-Darne 
(12-16th cent.) contains a number of interesting sculptures, and 
has also some good stained glass. — The Tour St. Jean, dating 
partly from the 15th cent., belongs to a secularized church. 



to Paris. DREUX. 25. Route. 183 

The branch-line from Evreux (p. 167) is continued beyond Verneuil to 
(24 M .) La Loupe, via (lO'/z M.) La FerU- Vidame-Lamblore and (18 M.) Senonchet. 

1361/2 M. Tillierea, with a 16th cent, church with elaborate 
vaulting, and (143V2 M.) Nonancourt are both on the Avre, a tribut- 
ary of the Eure. We traverse a pastoral district, dotted with manu- 
factories, and cross the Avre before reaching [147 M.) St-Oermain- 
St-Remy. 

153 M. Dreux (^Buffet; Hotel du Paradis, Grande-Rue 51, R 
from 21/2, B. 1, dej. 23/4, D. 3, pens. 9-13, omn. l/g fr.; de France, 
liue St. Martin 24, R. from 3, B. 3/^, dej. 23/^, D. 3, pens. 8-10, 
omn. 1 fr., good), with 9928 inhab., is situated on the Blaise, a 
tributary of the Eure, at the base of a hill on which rise the ruined 
castle and the Chapelle Royale. 

Dreux is a place of high antiquity. Known to the Romans as Duro- 
cassis or Drocae, in the territory of the Carnutes, it was annually the scene 
of a great meeting of the Gauls. In the middle ages it gave name to a 
famous family of counts, which, however, became extinct in 1378 In 
15B2 the Roman Catholics under the Due de Guise defeated the Protestants 
m a most sanguinary battle near Dreux, and captured their leader the 
Prince of Conde. In 1590, and again in 1593, Henri IV besieged the to'wn • 
and on the second occasion he destroyed the castle. The Germans made 
themselves masters of the town in Nov., 1870, after a short resistance. 

Quitting the station and crossing the river, we soon reach the 
Place Metezeau, named in honour of two famous architects of Dreux 
who flourished in the 16th and 17th centuries. ' 

The Church of St. Pierre, of the 13-15th cent., shows traces of 
the handiwork of the Me'tezeaus. Only one of its two towers has 
been finished (in the 16th cent.; 118 ft.) and the W. and N. doors 
ire much weathered. The Lady Chapel and the chapels of the aisles 
jontain some good old stained glass (restored). In the right transept 
8 a fine organ-case, designed in 1614 by Cle'ment Me'te'zeau. 

The Hotel de Ville, which resembles a large square donjon, 
was built between 1502 and 1537 and illustrates the transition from 
he mediaeval to the Renaissance style. The fa(;.ade (restored) on the 
ide farthest from the Place is flanked by two projecting turrets at the 
ingles, and is embellished with blind arcades and elaborate carving 
•ound the door and windows. The staircase and the vaulting in the 
nterior should be noticed. At the top of the tower is a bell of 1561 
n a framework of the same period. 

The route hence to the Chapelle Royale follows the Grande-Rue 
to the left, the Hospital Chapel, of the 17th cent., and at No. 27 a 
.6th cent, house), then (left) the Rue aux Tanneurs (leading to the 
aodern Palais de Justice) and (right) the Rue du Palais ; finally 
ire follow a lane behind the Palais de Justice and pass through a 
mall gateway to the left. The remains of the Castle, part of which 
i seen as we ascend, are insignificant. The Chapelle occupies part 
f the outer ward, which has been converted into a fine public prom- 
nade (open daily till 6 p.m. in summer, 4 p.m. in winter). 

It is advisable to examine the exterior of the chapel before applvine 
t the gate for admission (fee). The visitor should not hurry over his 



184 Route 25. DREUX. From Oranville 

inspection of the interior, especially as he quits the building by a side- 
door in the crypt, without returning to the nave. — Mass on bun. at 10 a.m. 

The *Chapellb Royale, or Chapelle St. Louis, is a handsome and 
highly interesting erection, in spite of the medley of architectural 
styles which it presents. It was hegun in 1816 by the Dowager 
Duchess of Orleans, mother of Louis Philippe, and enlarged and 
completed by her son as a burial-place for the Orleans family. 
The principal part of the chapel, and the lirst built, is the rotunda, 
80 ft. high , crowned by a dome 43 ft. in diameter. The nave, 
the apse, and the transepts, which were afterwards added so as to 
form a Greek cross, are all very short. The strange appearance of 
the pile is heightened by four balustrades which run round the out- 
side of the dome, one above the other. On either side of the main 
entrance is an octagonal turret, in open stone-work; and the portal 
itself is lavishly ornamented with sculptures, representing the Angel 
of the Resurrection, the Eternal Father, Ecce Homo, St. Louis beneath 
the oak-tree at Yincennes, the Apostles (on the door), etc. 

The Interior is even more gorgeous than the exterior. The hrat ob- 
jects to attract attention in the part of the church used for service are 
the magnificent ^Stained Windows. In the Nave, to the right, Christ in 
Gethsemane and St. Arnold washing the feet of pilgrims ; to the lett, 
Cruciiixion and St. Adelaide giving alms, after Larivi^re ; in the Transepts 
Twelve saints, after Ingres; in the cupola, Descent of the Holy Ghost, 
after LarivUre. Many of the sculptures, which are unfortunately diflicult 
to see, are fine; they include statues and bas-reliefs. — The funeral monu- 
ments are arranged in the Apse, to which steps descend behind the altar. 
At the sides are marble statues, hy Pradier, above the tombs of the young 
Due de Penthievre and of a young Princesse de Montpensier. At the foot 
of the steps is the monument of Louis Philippe (d. 1850) and his consort, 
Marie Amme (d. 1866), with a group of the deceased by iferct^. To the 
right is the tomb of the Princess Marie, Dachess of Wurtemberg _(d. 18d9), 
with her effigy, by Lemai^-e, and a statue of the Angel of Besignation 
sculptured by herself ; then the tombs of the Dulce of OrUans{d.. 1842), with 
a statue by Loison, after Ary Scheffer, of the Duchess of OrUans (Helena of 
Mecklenburg-Schwerin; d. 1858), with a statue by Chapu, and the Princess of 
Salerno (d. 1831), mother-in-law of the Due dAumale, with a statue by 
A^ Lenoir. To the left of the altar rest Mme. Adelaide (d. 1847), sister of Louis 
Philippe, with a statue by A. Millet (1877), and the Dowager Duchess of OrUans 
(d. 1821), foundress of the chapel, with a statue by the younger Barre. There 
are other tombs in the ambulatory, some unoccupied and some without 
monuments. Among the statues here the most noteworthy are those oi 
two youthful Princes de Montpensier, by Millet; and the charming group 
by Franceschi, marking the grave of two children of the Comte de Pans. 
The Duchesse d'Aumale (d. 1809; statue by Lenoir) and the^wc dAumale 
(d 1897) are also interred here. — On each side steps lead down to the 
Crypt proper. The four magnificent "Stained Windoias, representing scenes 
from the life of St. Louis, were designed by RougeU Jacquant E. Delacroix, 
E Wattier, H. Vernet, Bouton, and H. Flandrin. Most of the five other 
"Stained Windows in the passages, representing scenes froni the Passion, 
were designed bv Larivihre. All the stained glass used m the chapel was 
made at Sevres."— The large crypt beneath the rotunda and the smaller 
one beneath the sanctuary contain other tombs and funeral urns. 

After the circuit of the promenades has been made and the 
views enjoyed, there is little more to be seen at Dreux. In the square 
at the end of the Grande-Rue is a bronze statue, by J. J. AUasseur, 
of Eotrou, the dramatic poet (1609-50), who was born at Dreux. 



to Paris. ST. CYR. 25. Route. 185 

A branch-railway runs from Dreux through the valley of the Eure to 
(17 M.) Maintenon, passing (IOV2 M.) Nogent-le-Roi, near which is Coulombs 
with the ruins of a Romanesque abbey. ' 

From Dreux to Chartres (Orleans) and to Bueil and Rouen, see pp. 140, 139. 
The river Eure is crossed. 160 M. Marchezais-Broue. — The 
castle at (1641/2 M.) Uoudan (Hot. du Plat-d'Etain, R. 2, D. 3 fr.), of 
which the donjon and a round tower with four turrets still stand, 
also belonged to the counts of Montfort. It was built in 1105-37;' 
the Gothic church dates from the 11th century. 

175V2 M. Montfort-l'Amaury. The town (Hot. des Voyageurs), 
which lies about 1^/4 M. to the left of the station, contains an interest- 
ing church of the 15-16th cent., and the ruined castle (10th cent.) 
of the Comtes de Montfort, which was the birthplace of Simon de 
Montfort, the able though cruel leader in the campaign against the 
Albigenses and the father of the famous Earl of Leicester. 

179 M. ViUiers - Neauphle. At Pontel, near Neauphle, is the 
17th cent. Chateau de Pontchartrain. — 183 M. Plaisir-Grignon. 
Grignon possesses a well-known Agricultural Institute, established 
in a fine chateau of the 17th century. — Branch to (10 M.) Epone- 
Mezieres (p. 125) through the pretty valley of the Mauldre, via 
Maule, with an old church and a 17th cent, chateau. 

190 M. St. Cyr-rEcole, famous for its military school, founded in 
le.06, numbering 750-800 cadets between the ages of 16 and 20. The 
building, which is well seen from the train (to the right), was originally 
occupied by a school for daughters of the nobility, founded by Mme. 
de Maintenon, and for these 'DemoiseUes' Racine wrote his dramas 
of 'Esther' and 'Athalie'. Railway to Rennes, see R. 30. 

Before reaching (193 M.) Versailles (see Baedekers Paris) we 
see the fortified plateau of Satory on the right and the palace and 
park of Versailles on the left. Tunnel. — 198 M. Bellevue is the 
only station between Versailles and Paris at which the trains stop 
204 M. Paris. ^ 

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alencon. Falaise. 

1031/2 M. Railway in 33/4-51/2 hrs. (fares 18 fr, 80, 12 fr. 75, 8 fr 25 c ) To 
Alencon 6d M., in 2V2-3V2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 55, 8 fr. 40 5 fr 45 c )• to 
Falatse, 32 M., in Vh-P/lhr. (fares 5 fr. 80, 3 f^. 95, 2 fr 55 c.).' ' 

Caen, see p. 169. Our train foUows the Paris railway to (15 M ) 
Mezidon (p. 165), then turns to the S. and ascends the valley of 
the Dives. — IG'/g M. St. Pierre-sur-Dives (Hot. du Dauphin ; de 
1^ ranee), a small town to the left, possesses a Gothic abbey-church 
with three fine towers, one of which is a reUc of an earlier Norman 
building. — 26 V2 M. Coulihoeuf. 

at F^?l'^l^r''/,f'"'''K '"'' ^'^^^'S'^. 51/2 M., branch-railway in 16min., meeting 
at Falaise another branch from Berjou-Cahan (p. 188- I8V2 M ) 

7 10 fr^^' ^ ^rn^-^J £^ ^onn^ndie, Rue Amiral-Courbet, r! 2-4, pens. 
riJ Rufd.rrptiw-^'-^"^.*^' 2^'"°'.^- 2-5' V^^'- 9-13 fr.\ de la Croix- 
the fown .^^ fi ^^"^ f"f 'J^i? ^«''^' «o«t« ^^ Tours. - Tkamwat round 
the town and the castle (aflfording fine views). 



186 Route 26. FALAISE. From Caen 

Falaise^ a town with 7014 inhab., ia picturesquely situated on a rocky 
height, on the right bank of the Ante, a small affluent of the Dives. 
William the Conqueror was born here in 1027. His mother was the 
daughter of a simple tanner of Falaise, who won the heart of Robert the 
Magnificent, also called Robert the Devil, sixth Duke of Normandy. Wil- 
liam's successors, the kings of England, remained in more or less peace- 
able possession of the town until 1450, when it was finally captured by 
Charles VII. of France. Falaise underwent one siege more in 1590, when 
it was occupied by the Leaguers and retaken by Henri IV. 

From the station the Rue d'Argentan leads to the left to the suburb 
of Guibray (see below) and on the right descends to the Place St. Gervais. 
The Church of St. Oervais is a Norman and Gothic edifice, the most 
noteworthy feature of which is the fine Norman tower above the transept. 
In the interior we notice the bosses of the choir and chapels, and the 
balustrade under the windows of the choir. The Church of the Trinity^ 
reached by the street of that name on the other side of the Place 
St. Gervais, is a handsome structure of the 14-15th cent., with a Renais- 
sance W. front, consisting of an ancient triangular porch converted into 
a chapel. The choir possesses a fine arcaded balustrade like that at 
St. Gervais. — A few paces farther on is an "Equestrian Statue of William 
the Conqueror^ in bronze, by Rochet, erected in 1851. Round the base are 
bronze figures of the first six dukes of Normandy. Adjacent stands the 
Edtel de Ville, to the right of which passes the street leading to the castle. 

The Castle of Falaise, a picturesque Norman ruin dating back to the 
10th cent., is finely situated on a rugged promontory jutting out over 
the valley, opposite another rocky height named the Mont Mirat. During 
the middle ages it was a fortress of great strength and importance. The 
remains include the outer Enceinte^ strengthened with round towers of 
the 12th cent, and now enclosing the buildings of a college; the Donjon 
or Keep^ of 1123, a massive Norman structure measuring 65 ft. in height 
and the same in breadth 5 and Talbot's Tower, a round tower 130 ft. high, 
added by the English in 1418-50. The interior of the donjon, which is 
shown by the concierge, is interesting only for the view over the valley. 
The dungeon in which King John Lackland is said to have confined his 
nephew Arthur of Brittany is also shown. The top (to which, however, 
visitors are now denied access) commands a fine view, and it was hence, 
or from one of the windows, that Robert the Devil is said to have first 
seen Aidette, the tanner's daughter (see above), washing linen in the small 
stream at the foot of the castle rock. Talbot's Tower contains two vaulted 
chambers. The breach through which Henri IV entered the castle is seen 
at the end of the disengaged part of the enceinte next the promenade. 
This part was formerly defended by a moat. 

Returning to the Hotel de Ville we pass behind it and skirt the 
castle-hill by a promenade, bounded on the left by a Hospital (18th cent.) 
and the river Ante, leading to the Porte des Cordeliers (13th cent.), the 
only considerable relic of the fortifications. Thence the Rue des Corde- 
liers leads back to the Place St. Gervais. 

At the suburb oi Guibray, beyond the railway, a much-frequented horse- 
fair has been held since the 11th cent., lasting from Aug. 10th to Aug. 25th. 
The Church is mainly a Norman structure of the 11th century. Above the 
high-altar is a fine group of the Assumption by an unknown sculptor. 

The first station beyond Conlibceuf is (30 M.) Fresne-la-Mere. 
Beyond (SSi/o M.) Montabart the line to Granville (R. 25) diverges 
to the right. From (42 M.) Argentan (p. 181) to (51 M.) Surdon 
(p. 182) our line coincides with that from Granville to Paris, from 
which it diverges to the right at the latter. To the left are seen the 
towers of Sees. 

061/2 M. Sees (Cheval Blanc, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr.), a town with 
3982 inhah. and the seat of a bishop, is of ancient origin but has 



to Le Mans. ALENgON. 26. Route. 187 

been repeatedly devastated and rebuilt. The main street leads in 
a straight line from the station to the Place de la Cathedrale. 

The Cathedral (Notre-DameJ, a pilgrimage-church, is a handsome 
Gothic edifice of the 13-14th centuries. The W. front is preceded by 
a porch with a fine iron grille and is flanked by towers (230 ft. 
high), the stone spires of which have been restored. 

The lofty arches and beautiful triforium of the nave are supported by 
round columns. The transepts are lighted by good rose-windows, and the 
N. arm contains a fine tympanum and a modern monument. An old well, 
surrounded by a stone coping, has been discovered to the right of the choir. 
The high-altar, with its two faces, is adorned with bas-reliefs in bronze 
and marble. The adjacent panelling is embellished with four fine bas- 
reliefs of scenes from the life of the Virgin. 

Beyond Sees the scenery improves. 62 M. Vingt-Hanaps. 

69 M. Alencon (Hot. du Grand-Cerf, R. from 2V2, D. 31/2 fr., 
de France, both Rue St. Blaise ; de la Gare)^ the chief town of the 
department of the Orne , with 17,843 inhab., is situated at the 
confluence of the Sarthe and the Briante. It carries on extensive 
manufactures of woollen and linen cloth, and the famous 'Point 
d' Alencon' lace is still highly valued. The duchy of Alencon, created 
in the 14th cent., was an apanage of the house of Valois. 

The Rue de la Gare, the Rue St. Blaise (containing the Prefec- 
ture; 17th cent.), and the Grande-Rue lead from the railway-station 
to the Place de la Madeleine, at the end of which is the Maison 
d'OzS, built in 1450. The church of Notre-Dame, on the right in 
this Place, has a 15th cent, nave and transepts and a tower of 1744. 
The handsome triple porch is flanked by graceful turrets (ca. 1500), 
The pediment of the central bay of the porch contains a group re- 
presenting the Transfiguration. The exterior is adorned with bal- 
ustrades. The most noteworthy features within are the vaulting, the 
stained-glass windows (15-16th cent.), the Renaissance organ-loft, 
and the canopied altar. 

The Rue aux Sieurs, farther on, to the right, leads to the Corn 
Market, a huge rotunda, and then to the Place d'Armes. Here stand 
the remains of the old Castle, now a prison, consisting mainly of 
the keep (14th cent.) and the gateway, flanked with two towers 
(15th cent.). 

Adjacent is the Hotel de Ville, a building of 1783, containing 
a small Musee (open on Sun. and holidays. 1-4). 

Besides objects of natural history (including numerous 'Diamants d'Alen- 
fon , i.e. smoky quartz-crystals found in the neighbouring granite-quarries) 
the collections comprise a number of paintings by Jouvenet, Oudry, 06r%- 
cault, Ghardin, Desportes, Ribera, Domenichino, and others. 

The Promenade at the back of the Hotel de Ville affords a view 

of the Church of St. Leonard, at the end of the Grande-Rue, an 

edifice of 1489-1505, lately restored. 

From Alencon to Cond4-sur-Huisne (for Chartres) and to Domfront, 
see p. 215. 

Beyond Alencon the Le Mans railway crosses the Sarthe. 75 M. 



188 Route 27. DOMFRONT. From Caen 

Bourg-le-Roi, with the considerable remains of a 12th cent, castle. 
— 78 M. La Hutte - Coulombiers , junction of branch-lines to 
(151/2 M.) Mamers (p. 215) and to (18 M.) SilU - le - Quillaume 
(p. 220). — The train continues to follow the winding Sarthe, re- 
crossing the river. 85^2 M. Vivoin-Beaumont. Vivoin, 1/2 M. to the 
left of the line, possesses a ruined convent and an interesting church 
of the 13th century. — We again cross the Sarthe. 97^2 M.NeuvULe. 
The train now joins the line from Rennes (R. 30) and crosses the 
Sarthe for the last time. 

1031/2 M. Le Mans, see p. 216. 



27, From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne. 

971/2 M. Railway in 43/4-53/4 lirs. (fares 17 fr. 70, 11 fr. 95, 7 fr. 75 c). 
To Domfront, 551/2 M., in 23/4-81/2 lirs. (fares 9 fr. 95, 6 fr. 75, 4 fr. 4U c); 
to Mayenne, 78 M., in 4-43/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 20, 9 fr. 55, 6 fr. 20 c). 

Caen, see p. 169. Our train follows the Cherbourg line (p. 165) 
for a short distance, but soon diverges to the left from it and from 
the lines to Courseulles (p. 158) and Vire (p. 180). It then ascends 
the valley of the Orne, crossing that river several times and passing 
several small stations. Beyond (26 M.) Clecy (Hot. de la Petite- 
Suisse, pens. 6-7 fr. ) the train crosses the Orne for the last time 
and passes from its valley into that of the Noireau by a tunnel up- 
wards of 1 M. long. 28 V2 M. Berjou-Cahan is the junction of a line 
to (18 M.) Falaise (p. 185), which also leads partly through the 
valleys of the Noireau and the Orne. 

The valley of the Noireau, which we cross repeatedly, is pleas- 
antly diversified. 31^/2 M. Pont-Erambourg. — 33 M. Conde-sur- 
Noireau (Lion d'Or), a manufacturing town with 6247 inhab. and 
numerous spinning-factories, was the birthplace of Dumont d'Urville 
(1790-1842), the distinguished navigator, to whom a bronze statue, 
by Molknecht, has been erected here. 36 M. Caligny. At (38^2 M.) 
Cerisi-Belle-EtoUe we join the line from Granville to Paris (p. 181), 
which we continue to follow for some time beyond (41 M.) Flers 
(p. 181), before diverging from it to the right. — 44 M. Messei; this 
station is nearer the market-town of Messei than that on the Paris 
railway (p. 181). The town contains considerable remains of a castle 
of the 10th century. — We now descend the valley of the Varenne, 
crossing the stream several times. — As we near Domfront, we have 
a fine view of the town to the left. 

55 M. Domfront {Hot. Trouillard et de la Poste, R. 2-4, dej. 3, 
D. 31/2 fr., good; du Commerce, both centrally situated), an ancient 
town with 4663 inhab., is picturesquely situated on a hill rising 
steeply on the left bank of the Varenne. 

Its position made it one of tlie chief fortresses of Normandy, and it 
was repeatedly besieged in the Hundred Years' War and in the religious 
contests of later date. Its military history hegins in 1048 with its siege 



to Laval. MAYENNE. ^7. Routt 189 

and capture by William the Conqueror, and ends in 1574, when Gabriel 
de Montgomery the Scottish knight who accidentally killed Henri II in 
a tournament (1559) and afterwards became a Huguenot leader, sought 
refuge here but had to yield to Marshal Matignon. °""gui 

It takes 1/4 hr. to ascend from the station to the town by road 
but pedestrians may follow short-cuts to the left. The small Church 
ofNotre-Dame-suT-VEau, at the base of the hill, near the station is 
a Norman edifice of the 11th century. The Castle (to the left, 'on 
the top of the rock) has been in ruins since the 16th cent, 'and 
little now remains of it except a picturesque corner of the 'keep 
dominating the vaUey. Henry II. of England here received the 
papal nuncio sent to reconcile him with Thomas Becket. The ram- 
parts have been converted into a promenade, and command a beau- 
tiful view. A street leads hence to the modern Hotel de Ville and 
the Church of St. Julien. Behind these are some well-preserved 
remains of the Fortifications, including several towers of the town- 
wall, the tallest of which is the Tour de Godras. 

'^J^^^^'^oi^^iont to Alengon and Cond6, see p. 215. — A branch-line 
runs to the W. from Domfront to Romagn; and (I6V2 M.) MoriaJnif ISO) 
Thence to Avranches, see p. 180. ^' ^' 

Beyond Domfront the scenery increases in interest 69 M 

Torchampj 62 M. Ceauce. — 69 M. Ambrieres, with a ruined castle 
founded by Henry I. of England. We now reach the banks of the 
Mayenne, which we cross. — 70 M. St. Loup-du-Gast: 73 M 
of. Fraimhault-de-Prieres. 

78 M Mayenne {Grand-Hotel, II. from 21/3, D. 3 fr.. Grand- 

''^'•!l i'nnon .? *^® ^""^y^' ^"^ ^^''^^^^ cloth-manufacturing town 
with 1U,U2U inhab., is situated on both banks of the Mayenne here 
a wide and navigable stream. ' 

Claude"'! ^^^^ftXf p^-^y^"''^^^*'..^^^^^^^^ t« a marquisate in favour of 
for rh»;i'. ?? of Guise, and m 1573 it was created a duchy and peerage 
for Charles of Lorraine, who styled himself thenceforth Due de Mayenne 
Its strongly fortified castle was frequently besieged during the middle a^e^ 
and was taken by the English, under the Earfof Salisbury, 1^1424 ^ 

On qmtting the railway-station, we turn first to the right and 
then to the left, and descend the Kue St. Martin to the Mayenne 
where we obtain a fine view of the town proper on the opposite 
l>ank, with Notre-Dame and the castle in the foreground. The views 
up and down stream are also fine. 

The Churcli of Notre-Dame, founded in 1110, was in great part 
.kilfully rebuilt in the original style in 1868-72. In front is a statue 

1 Lnn7 t I ^f^^> ^^' ''"^"^' ''^'^'^ ^y *^« «*^««t« to the left 

ZTl n . ^ I'' '' ''^'' ^ P"'""' ^^* P*^* of i*s enclosure has 
been converted into a public promenade. 

The Hotel de Ville, at the upper end of the main street begin- 
ng at the bridge, contains the public library and a small mufee. 

Chb shofof Rn ^h' '"^"^f ^''*'" ^^- ^- ^'^ '""^ Montauban and 
i self Ind th/h "^^^^^ ' °^*^^« of Mayenne. The statue 

Itself and the bronze reliefs on the pedestal are by David d'Anger^ 



190 Route 27. MARTlGNfi. 

Jublains (p. 220) lies about 7 M. to the S.E. of Mayenne. 

From Matenne to FoDGfiRES, 36 M., railway in IVa-SVshrs. (fares 6 fr. 95, 
4 fr. 2 fr. 60 c). This line diverges to the left from that to Domfront and 
crosses the Mayenne. — 6 M. St. Georges-Buttavent (1985 inhab.); 8V2 M. 
CMtillon-sur-Colmont (2023 inhab.)^ 14 M. St. Denis-de-Gastines (2774 inhab.). 
— 18'/2 M. Ernee (Edt. de la Tete-Noire, pens. 6 fr., omn. 50 c. ; de la Paste) , 
on the river of the same name, is an industrial town of 6297 inhab., 
commanded by a Chdteau of the 16th century. A branch-line runs hence 
to Laval (p. 220). — 24 M. St. Pierre-des-Landes. — 271/2 M. Luitr^. — 29 M. 
La Selle-en-Luitr4^ also on the line from Vitre to Pontorson (p. 223). — 
36 M. Fough-es, see p. 223. «« , ,, ^ „ , „ •, 

Another branch -railway runs from Mayenne to (28V2 M.) Pre-en-Patl 
(Alencon-, p. 215). 

Farther on we cross a viaduct 80 ft. high. — 827-2 M. Commer; 
861/2 M. Martigne, At (901/2 M.) La ChapeUe-Anthenaise we join the 
line from Paris via Le Mans (R. 30). 94^/2 M. Louveriie. 

971/2 M. Laval, see p. 220. 



III. BRITTANY AND THE BANKS OF THE LOIRE. 



28. St. Malo, St. Servan, Dinard, and their Environs . . 194 

I. St. Malo and Param^ 194 

II. St. Servan I97 

III. Dinard I97 

St. Enogat. St. Lunaire. St. Briac, 198. 

IV. Excursions from St. Malo 198 

To Cancale, 198. — To Mont St. Michel, 199. — To 
Dinan, 201. — From Dinan to Dinard, 204. 

29. From St. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (Quimper) . . 204 

I. From St. Malo to Rennes 204 

From Rennes to Chateaubriant, 208. 
II. From Rennes to Vannes (Quimper) 208 

a. Via Redon 208 

b. Via Ploermel 209 

From Ploermel to Plouay; to Chateaubriant, 209.* 

30. From Paris to Rennes 210 

I. From Paris to Chartres 210 

From Cbartrea to Saumur, 214. 

II. From Chartres to Le Mans 214 

From Condd to Alencon and Domfront. From Nogent- 
le-Rotrou to Orleans. From Connerre to Mamers and 
to St. Calais, 215. — From Le Blans to La Chartre; to 
St. Denis-d'Orques, etc. From Le Mans to Tours, 219. 

III. From Le Mans to Rennes 220 

From Silld-le-Guillaume to La Hutte-Coulombiers : to 
Sabl^. From Evron to Jublains; to Ste. Suzanne, 220. 
— From Laval to Gennes-Longuefuye; to Mayenne- 
to Chateaubriant, 221. — From Vitre to Pontorson 
(Mont St. Michel); to Martigne-Ferchaud, 223. 

31. From Rennes to Brest 223 

From Lamballe to Le Val-Andre', Erquy, Moncontour, 
224. — From St. Brieuc to Collinee, 225. — From 
Plounenn to Plestin ; Locquirec, 226. — Bodilis. Lam- 
bader. La Martyre. From Landerneau to Brignogan. 
Plougastel, 228. — Excursions from Brest. From Brest 
to Le Conquet; to Morgat; to Douarnenez; to Lan- 
devennec; to Portsall; to L'Aber-wracb: to St. Pol- 
de-L^on, 231, 232. 

32. From St. Brieuc to Pontivy and Auray 233 

From Pontivy to Meslan, 234. 

o3. From St. Brieuc to Quimper 234 

a. Via Auray 234 

b. Via Loude'ac and Chateaulin 235 

c. Via Guingamp and Rosporden 236 

Excursions from St. Brieuc and from Guingamp . . 237 

I. From St. Brieuc to Guingamp by the Narrow- 

Gauge Railway 237 

From Portrieux to Paimpol, 237. 

II. From Guingamp to Paimpol 238 

Environs of Paimpol, 289. 



34. 



192 BRITTANY. 



III. From Guingamp to Treguier 239 

From Treguier to Port-Blanc ; to Lannion, 240. 

IV. From Guingamp to Lannion. Environs of Lannion 240 
From Lannion to the Chateaux in the Valley of the 
L^guer; to Plestin; to Tre'beurden ; to Perros-Guirec; 

to Trcgastel, 240, 241. 

35. Excursions from Moxlaix 242 

L From Morlaix to St. Pol- de-Leon and to Roscoff 242 

He de Batz, 243. 
II. From Morlaix to St. Jean-du-Doigt and to Plou- 

gasnou 243 

in. From Morlaix to Carhaix. Huelgoat 244 

St. Herbot, 245. 

36. From Brest to Nantes 245 

I. From Brest to Quimper 245 

From Quimper to Pont-TAbbe and St. Gu^nole; to 
Douamenez and Audierne, etc., 247, 248. 

11. From Quimper to Lorient and Auray 248 

From B,osporden to Concarneau, 248. — From Quimperle 
to Pont-Aven; to Le Pouldn, 249. — Port-Louis. He 
de Groix. From Lorient to Gonrin, 250. 

III. From Auray to Vannes and Nantes 251 

The Morbihan, 252. — From Vannes to Sarzeau and 
St. Gildas; to La Eoche-Bernard; to Locmine, 253. 

37. From Auray to Quiberon. Plouharnel. Carnac. Loc- 
mariaquer 254 

Belle-ile-en-Mer, 256. 

38. Nantes 257 

From Nantes toChateaubriant^ toPaimboeuf^ toPornic; 
to St. Nazaire, Le Croisie, and Guerande, 265, 266. 

39. From Paris to Nantes 266 

a. Via Le Mans, Sable, and Angers 266 

From La Su/e to Saumur via La Fleche. Solesmes. 
• From Sable to^ La Fleche, 267. — From La Possonniere 
to Cholet. Chateau de Serrant. Champtoceaux, 268. 

b. Via Le Mans, Sable, and Segre 268 

From Segre to Chateaubriant and St. Nazaire, 269. 

c. Via Orleans, Tours, and Angers 270 

Usse, 270. — Bagneux. From Saumur to Fontevrault. 
From Les Rosiers to Gennes, 272. 

40. Angers 272 

From Angers to Les Ponts-de-Ce; to ISToyant-Me'on ; to 
La Fleche; to Segrd, 279. 

41. From Paris to Tours 279 

a. Via Orleans and Blois 279 

I. From Paris to Orle'ans 279 

Montlhe'ry, 280. — From Etampes to Auneau ; to Beaune- 
la-RoIande, 281. 

II. From Orle'ans to Tours 281 

Chateau de Chaumont, 282. 

b, ViaVendome 283 



15K1TTANY. 1 9'^ 



42. Orleans '287 

Environs, 290." — From Orleans to Montargis; to Gien, 
291. 

43. Blois .* 291 

Chateaux de Chambord, de Beauregard, and de Che- 
verny, 294, 295. — From Blois to Vendome and Pont- 
de-Braye; to Romorantin and Villefranche-sur-Cher; 
to Lamotte-Beuvron ; to Montrichard, etc., 295, 29{i. 

44. Tours and its Environs 296 

Excursions from Tours: Chenonceaux, 300; Chinon, 
301; Loches, 302. 



The ancient duchy of Bretagne or Brittany (comp. p. xxxiv), 'pays de 
granit, reconvert de chenes", forming the extreme N.W. corner of France, 
still differs in many important respects from the rest of the country. The 

M inhabitants are of pure Celtic race and their native tongue is akin to Welsh. 

I In upper or E. Brittany this language has to a great extent given place to 
French, but upwards of a million inhabitants in the W. provinces (Fin- 
istere, Cotes du Nord, Morbihan) still speak it, and in many places in the 
interior French is not understood. The peasants still retain their ancient 
picturesque dress, vt^hich is seen to greatest advantage on Sundays and at 

I 'Pardons' and other fetes. Many of their manners and customs also are 
quaint and primitive, and curious old legends and superstitions are met at 
every turn. In addition to its wild scenery Brittany offers the traveller 
a special attraction in the megalithic monuments of the prehistoric population 
at Carnac and Locmariaquer. 

When the Romans invaded the country the unknown prehistoric in- 
habitants, the builders of ihe great stone monuments (comp. p. 254), had 
been largely superseded by Gallic tribes, who named it Armorica ('country 
" near the sea'). But the ancestors of the bulk of the present population 
' did not begin to arrive until the 5th centTiry; : nd for a century and a 
half Armorica received a steady'siream of Celtic immigrants from Britain, 
driven out by the Teutonic invaders of that island. The new-comers 
brought their language, customs, political rrganization, and religion to 
their new country, which thenceforth bee; me known as 'Little Britain' 
or simply Brittavy. The autonomous settlements they established were 
known as plou or lann^ acco'ding as they were under secular chiefs or 
under bishops. In course of time these settlements expanded and united 
to form five little states: Eomnonia (Tre'guier and Le'on), Cornubia or Cor- 
nouaille (Quimper), and Bro Weroch (Vannes), on the coast ; PoAer (Carhaix) 
and Pmtrecoet (Ploermel and Pontivy), in the interior. In the 9th cent, 
the Bretons, united under Komivof^ established their independence against 
the Franks; and although in 1169 Geoffrey^ son of Henry II. of England 
and Normandy, became duke of Brittany, the country successfully resisted 
the attempts both of France and of England. Finally, however, the duchy 
passed to France, throu^jh the marriages of Anne' of Brittany^ first to 
Charles VIII. in 14P1 and secondly to Louis XII. in 1499. Formally the 
duchy passed to Claude of France, daughter of Anne and Louis and wife 
of Francis L, and the union of Brittany and France was at last consum- 
mated on the accession of her son, Henri II of Franco, in 1547. During 
the wars of the League after the death of Henri III P.rittanv was agitated 
by civil strife, but finally submitted to Henri IV in 1598 "(p. 258). — In 
1793 the Chouans, or royalists of Brittany, rose in a revolt which was 
repressed only by the energetic intervention of Hoche (Quiberon, 1795). 



Bakdekkb'b Northern France. 5th Edit. 13 



194 



28. St. Malo, St. Servan, Dinard, and their Environs. 

I. St. Malo and Faram^. 

St. Malo. — Arrival. The Quay of the steamers from Southamptofl, 
Jersey, etc. is about IV* M. from the Railway Station by the direct route 
(p. 195)-, but the lock between the tidal basin and the wet dock is often 
open, in which case the detour mentioned on p. 195 must be taken. A 
distinct l)argain should be made with the Porters who offer their services, 
especially if they undertake to convey the luggage from the custom-house 
to the station. 

Hotels. ~Gb.-H6t. Feanklin, outside the town, near the Casino, 120 R. 
from 4, B. IV2, d^j. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens, from 9, omn. 1 fr., English; •Gr.- 
HoT. DE France et de Chateaubriand, Place Chateaubriand, with sea-view 
from the back-windows, 135 R. from 4, B. 11/4, d(5j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10, 
omn, 1 fr. ; Hot. de l'I'nivers, Place Chateaubriand, R. from 4, B. 1, 
dej. 3V2, I^. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1/2 fr., good. — In the town: du Centbe 
ET DE LA Paix, Rue St, Thomas 6, 70 R. from 21/2, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, 
pens, from 8V2, onan, 1/2 fr. ; Central-Benoit, Grande Rue 12, D. 2V2, pens, 
from 71/2, omn. Y2 fr., good-, dd Commerce, Rue St. Thomas, dej. 3, omn. 
1/2 fr. ; de l'Union, in a blind alley near the Grande Porte and the Rue 
de la Poissonnerie, R. from 2V2 fr. '-, de Normandie et de Beetagne, Rue 
St, Thomas, pens, from 6 fr. ; Bellevue, at the Porte Champs-Vauverts, R. 
from 2, D. 31/2, pens, from 7, omn. V4 fr. ; de la Marine, Rue des Marins 7, 
R. 2-3, D. 2^/4, pens. 7-8, omn. 3/4 fr. ; de Provence et d'Angleterbe, Rue 
de la Poissonnerie, unpretending. — At the station: Chadoin, D. 2V2, pens, 
6V2 fr. '-, des Votagedrs, with restaurant, dej. 2 fr. — Many English and other 
visitors patronize St. Malo in summer, so that the hotels are often crowded 
and expensive. The Hotels Franklin, de France et de Chateaubriand, du 
Centre et de la Paix, and Central-Benoit are closed in winter. 

Cafes. Continental, des Voyageurs, de V Quest, de Paris, Place Chateaubriand. 

Cabs. Stand outside the Porte St. Vincent, where the tarifl' is posted 
up: per drive IV4 fr., per hr. 21/4 fr., each additional ^/ihT/^/^fT. Motor 
cabs at the same tariff. 

Steam Tramways (comp. the Plan). 1. From the Ggle de Dinan to the 
PoHe St. Vincent (10 c). 2, From the Porte St. Vincent to Parami-Bourg 
via the coast (20 & 80 c). 3. From the Porte St. Vincent to the Mairie at 
St. Servan via the railway-station (15 & 20 c). 4. From the Mairie at 
St. Servan to Parami - Bourg via the railway- station (15, 20, & 30 c.). — 
Tramway to Cancale, see p. 198, 

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box and costume 1 fr, on the Grande Plage, 70 c. 
on the Plage du Bey. Warm Salt Water Baths (1 fr.), near the Casino. 

Casino. Adm. 50 c. ; theatrical performances and concerts 2-4 fr. Sub- 
scription for a week 27 fr., fortnight 35, month 55, season 80 fr. ; 2 pers. 
35, 55, 80, and 120 fr. 

Pont Roulant (p, 197) between St. Malo and St. Servan (p. 197), fares 
10 and 5 c, after 8 p.m. 15 and 10 c, after 10 p,m, 30 and 25 e, — Steam 
Ferry to Dinard almost every 1/4 ^^- (from 8 a,m, to 7.45 p.m.) during the 
season, starting at the Cale de Dinan, in the outer harbour, the Cale du 
Grand-Bey (p. 195), or the Cale du Petit-Bey, according to the tide. Passage 
in 10-15 min, (fares 25c. : after 6 p,m, 50c.). Motor-launches ('vedettes'; same 
fares) ply also after 8 p.m. 

Steamers. To Dinan, see p. 201. — To the Islands in the bay, Cancale, 
Mont St. Michel, Granville, Cap Frihel, etc., at irregular intervals ; see local 
advertisements and bills. — To St. Brieuc weekly in 23/4 hrs. (5, 4, 3 fr.), 
returning via Le Havre (see p. 224), — To Southampton (London) and to 
the Channel Islands, see pp. xiii, xiv. 

Brakes to Cancale daily in the season at 1,30 p.m. from Place Chateau- 
briand 2 (fare 2V2 fr.); to St. Suliac (p. 201), twice weekly (21/2 fr.). 

Post & Telegraph Office (Pi. 7), opposite the W. facade of the church. 

British Vice -Consul, Hon. E. Henniker- Major. — American Consular 
Agent, Raymond Moulton. 




ave et xnipnmp pa- 




'•<■,< oner ADebes 



ST. MALO. 25. Route. 195 

English Church, at Param^ (p. 196). — Work among the Britieh 
seamen freciuenting the port is carried on by the S(. Andrew's Watertide 
Mission. 

St. Malo, a fortified seaport with 10,647 inhab., occupies a re- 
markably picturesque situation, on a rock (formerly an island) rising 
between the harbour and the mouth of the Ranee, flanked on the 
left by St. Servan, and facing Dinard on the opposite bank. 

St. Malo derives its name from the Welsh monk St. Malo or St. Blaclou 
who became its first bishop in the 6th cent., but its importance, formerly 
much greater than at present, dates from a considerably later period. The in- 
habitants of St. Malo early distinguished themselves as bold traders in time of 
peace and as daring privateers in time of war. Jacques Cartier (1491-1557) 
who discovered Canada in 1534, was a native of St. Malo: the famous ad- 
miral Duguay-Trouin (1673-1736) was at first a privateersman from the same 
port; Sufcouf (17^3-1827), well known as a corsair, and Mahe de la Bour- 
donna.s (1699-1^53) who took Madras from the English in 1746, were also 
Maloums In 1622 St. Malo sent valuable aid to Louis XIII. at the siege 
?l .■ .-rVi I®' ^°^ ^*^ cruisers had been so successful in war and trade 
that in 1711 the town contributed 30 million francs to support Louis XIV 
in the wars of the Spanish Succession. The English made various un- 
successful attempts to capture the town and bombarded it several times. 
In 1758 the Duke of Mariborough landed at St. Servan with 15,000 men 
but though he did immense damage to shipping and other property, he 

S mq^ I" ^^^/^-^nS^^-.r^';*-^^^^ ^^' *^« birthplace of Manpertuis 
S^^^'r "*""'"'■'.* .?S'Pi2\ (^f^'^t^^^briand (1768-1848), 5rot/5.m/(1772- 
1838), and Lamennais (1782-1854). 

The Harbour frecently completed), in a shallow bay between 
St. Malo and St. Servan, consists mainly of an outer basin, a tidal 
harbour, two wet docks, and an inner reservoir. St. Malo imports 
timber and coal, exports provisions of all kinds to England, and takes 
a considerable share in the Newfoundland cod-fishery. 
. The Railway Station is situated in the suburb of Rocabey, near 
the harbour, between St. Malo and St. Servan, and about 1/2 M. from 
each. To reach the former we follow the Avenue Louis-Martin 
between a wet dock on the right and the inner reservoir and the 
tidal harbour on the left (lock, see p. 194). The tramway route 
(Dmin. longer) traverses the Sillon, which was originally an embank- 
ment connecting the rock on which the town stands with the main- 
land.— At the end of the Sillon next the town is the modest Casino 
in front of which is a bronze Statue of Chateaubriand fPl. 9- see 
above), by A. Millet. ' 

As we enter the town by the Porte St. Vincent, with its finely- 
sculptured coats-of-arms, the Castle, dating from the 14-1 5th cent 
i and now used as barracks, stands on our right. It consists mainly 
■ ot tour towers, one of which may be ascended for the sake of the 
Yiew. An almost equally extensive and more varied view may 
however, be enjoyed from the "Ramparts enclosing the town, which 
date chiefly from the 16th century. Visitors should not omit to make 
the circuit of the town on the ramparts, both for the sake of en- 
Ooying the curious appearance of the town, and also for the view of 
-.x.\^^'-^^}'^' '' finest when the tide is full. The bay is dotted 
With fortified islets, one of which, the Grand-Bey, 550 yds. from 

13» 



i^D Route 28. PARAME. 

the town, contains the simple tomb of Chateaubriand (d, 1848). 
St. Malo is remarkable for the great height to which the tide rises. 
Ordinary tides rise from 23 to 26 ft., spring-tides 49 ft. above low- 
water mark; and at low water an immense tract is uncovered so 
that it is possible to walk dryshod to the Grand-Bey. — In the 
Place de la Hollande is a statue of Jacques Cartier (see p. 195), by 
G. Bareau (1905), and on the Quai de Din an is one of Robert Surcouf 
(PI. 11; see p. 195), by Caravaniez (1903). 

Most of the streets are steep, narrow, and tortuous. From the 
small Place Chateaubriand, in front of the castle, we ascend to the 
centre of the town by the Rue St. Thomas or the Rue St. Vincent 
(opposite the gateway), and then turn to the left. 

The Parish Church, formerly the cathedral, was built partly in 
the 12th and 14th cent, (choir) but chiefly in the 15-16th cent.; 
the fagade dates from 1713 and the elegant spire from 1859. 

The best part of the interior is the choir, which has a fine tiiforium 
and three windows filled with modern stained glass. The ivory figure of 
Christ (facing the pulpit), a modern tomb to the right, and other sculp- 
tures are well executed, and several of Ihe pictures also are of some value; 
the latter, however, are badly lighted. 

The street nearly opposite the front of the church leads to another 
small Place, embellished with a marble Statue of Duguay-Trouin 
(PI. 10; see p. 195), by Molknecht. — The Hdtel de Ville (PI. 3), 
also in this square, contains several rooms decorated with paintings 
(apply to the concierge) and a small but interesting Museum (open 
on Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), which should certainly be visited by those 
entering Brittany for the first time. 

The Sea-bathing Establishment lies beyond the .castle, to the E. 
of the town. The beach consists of fine sand, and slopes gradually. 

Faram^. — Hotels. At Param4-les-Bains, nearly 1 M. from St. Malo 
by the Sillon (tramway) : Gband-Hotel de Paeame, adjoining the Casino, 
200 R. from 4, B. IV2, dej. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr.; Hot. 
Ddgday-Trodin, R. wi1h sea-view from 5 fr. ; pe Couetois- Ville, near the 
Casino 5 Notee-Dame-des- Graves. — At Rochebonne, nearly 1 M. farther on: 
*Beistol Palace Hotel, on the beach, with terrace and gardens, B. IV2, 
dej. 31/2, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. ; Hot. de la Plage, belonging to 
the same proprietor and also on the teach, pens, from 8 fr. ; Continental, 
in the same neighbourhood, dej. or D. 272 fr. ; des Bains et de Roche- 
bonne, Boul. Chateaubriand, R. from 2, D. 2^/2, pens, from 6, omn. V4fr. ; 
DE LA Paix, on the beach, pens. 8 fr. •, de l^OcSan, dej. or D. 2V2, pens, 
from 8, omn. 8/4 fr. ; de France, Boul. Chateaubriand, pens, from 7 fr. ; 
International, at the Rond-Point, R. 2-8, D. 3, pens. 7-9, omn. V* fr. ; du 
Centre, near the Rond-Point, dej. 2, D. 2V2 fr. 

Sea-Baths at the Plage du Casino, 1 fr. 40 c. ; at Rochebonne 1 fr. — 
Casino, at the new beach 5 adm. 50 c., theatre 2-5 fr. 

English Church (St. John (he Baptist), Rue Duguay-Trouin; services at 
10.30 and 5; chaplain, Bev. H. Northcote^ M. A., Chimiere. 

Parame (5140 inhab.) is formed of three distinct parts: Parame- 
les- Bains, Rochebonne, both of recent origin, and the village of 
Parame, situated at a short distance from the sea, on the road to 
Cancale (see p. 198). Parame-les-Bains consists mainly of the hotels 



ST. SERVAN. 28. Route. 197 

and casino, with a paved terrace and a fine sandy beach but the 
surroundings are Hat and shadeless, and there is no promenade ex- 
cept the terrace. Rochebonne, IS/^ M. from St. Malo, is more pleas- 
antly situated and has rapidly developed. 

Rothineuf ((Jrand-Hotel 5 Terminus), 33/4 M. from St. Malo (tramway) 
and Xa Gmmoran (Hotel, moderate), a little farther on are alS) ala- 
bat,h,ng reaorts. Some of the rocks 'near the former ha^e been Lved 
into fantastic figures by a local priest. «-arveu 

II. St. Servan. 

^l^\fllt\oT''T^''^f^ k^'^'T^A'^ ^^'- ^'^^''^h Grande-Rue 63 (St. 

i;^eek ^Sifriin^^r^^^^^^ ^^^^"^ ^«^"*^" ^«^^'--' ''- P- ^^^f^S^r^^r 
Steam Feriy io Dinard, every hour from the Port St. Pere (fares and 
.uies as from St. Malo), returning at the hall-hours. ^ VedetteTivomi ^m 

^fj^.^^l''''Tl^' ?^ Vf ^«"" (^^°- ^'-^^"^ at tt hours)" ^ '*"• 
Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 40 c. ^ box, costume, and towel 60 or 75 c 

/ 1/ ^rV^r''^' ?"^ Chapilre; services at ll' and 6^ chaplain' i^tp 
J. Michell, M. A. - English Physician, Dr. Ashdown. ' ' 

St. Servan, formerly only a suburb of St. Malo, is now a separate 
but uninteresting town with 12,242 inhabitants. It may be reached 
trom bt. Malo by the road passing the station (tramway, p. 194) or 
(better) by the Pont Roulant at the mouth of the harbour This 
bridge (fares, see p. 194) moves upon rails laid at the bottom of 
the sea, and is drawn from side to side of the harbour-mouth by 
means of a stationary steam-engine on the St. Servan side. The plat- 
form for passengers is 40 ft. above the rails. The modern Hotel de 
\ lUe, at the top of the Grande-Rue, and the Church ofSte. Croix, to the 
S., bunt m the 18-19th cent., are the only buildings of any preten- 
sions Besides sharing the harbour of St. Malo, St. Servan has two 
small liarbours at the mouth of the Ranee: the Port de Solidor and 
the tort St Pere, between whicb rises the 14th cent. Tour de Solidor 
hlv nTr ^^^°^/"^^5 ^^«^)- These harbours are separated from the 
bay oti.es Sablons by a rocky promontory, crowned by a fort on the 

ull f r *S'l?* *^'^'' ^^^^'^ ^^'^^- -^^^^"^^ Establishments on the 
t)ay ot Les Sablons and on the bay of Les Fours-k-Chaux. 

III. Dinard. 



d^f 5 D 7 n.n\ f n^'^^o^ la Malouine near the beach, R. from 8 B A 
ytL:nLl'f\\:ZZ^i'jJ^l omn.^ IV./r,; Gband-'hotel, with a set 

from 10, 

Gk.-Hot. 

pens. 






198 Route 28. DINARD. 

Hot.-Rkstaukant i)k la Paix, Place du Commerce; Hot. Moderne, near 
the station. — The liOiels Windsor^ de Provence el d'Angleterre, Bellevue^ det 
Bains, des Coloniet, de la Paix, and Moderne remain open all the year 
round. — Pension. Ker-Eden, Boul. Feart, pens, from 8 or 5 fr. 

Casinos. Casino High-Life, adm. 1 fr., for the whole day inch ball 
and theatre 3 fr.; subscription for a week 30, fortnight 50, month 65, 
season 95 fr.; for two pers. 5U, 90, 120, <fe 165 fr. Grand- Casino, behind 
the Hot. Royal, an annexe of the preceding; same charges. — Golf-Course 
at St. Briac (see below). — Sea-Baths. 'Bain complet' 1 fr., to subscribers 
70 c at the cbief establishment, less at the others. 

Cabs. Per drive IV2, per hr. 2 fr.-, at night 2V2 and 31/2 fr. 

Steam Ferries to St. Malo (see p. 194) and to St. Servan (p. 197). 

Steam Tramway from the Cale de Dinard and the station to St. Enogat^ 
St. Lunaire, and St. Briac (see below). 

The Steamboats from St. Malo to Dinan (see p. 201) touch at Dinard 
1/4 br. after leaving St. Malo. 

Post & Telegrapb Office, Rue du Casino. 

Englisli Church (St. Bartholomew), Rue des Bains, services at 11 and 
6 ; chaplain, Rev. C. J. Valpy French, M. A. 

Dinard is a modern town with 6114 inhab., picturesquely 
situated on a rocky promontory on the left hank of the estuary of 
the Ranee, opposite St. Malo and St. Servan. It is the leading sea- 
bathing resort in Brittany owing to its attractive site, its spacious 
sandy beach , its picturesque views , and its pleasant walks. The 
environs are sprinkled with villas, and it is much frequented by Eng- 
lish visitors. In July and August it is a somewhat expensive resort. 

The Qrevt de I'Eciuse, the chief bathing-beach, with the Casino, 
faces the open sea, between the Pointe de Dinard (to the S. of which 
passengers from St. Malo land) and the promontory of La Malouine. 
It may be reached either direct via the Grande-Rue and the Rue des 
Bains (to the right), or (preferable for walkers) by a foot-path as- 
cending the Pointe de Dinard and then skirting the shore. — The 
other bathing-establishment (Greve du Prieure) is on the bay of 
Dinard. The Pointe de la Vicomte, farther S., commands a fine view 

of the estuary of the Ranee. 

St. Enogat (Gr.-H6t. de la Mer; Hot. Michelet; Ker-Arvor; des Strangers 
et de St. Enogat, pens. 6-7 fr., good; Bu GuescUn, unpretending; Pens.Belle- 
vue, 6-7 fr. ; furnished villas), a large village about 1 M. from Dinard, beyond 
the second promontory of La Malouine, is also a favourite bathing-resort. 

St. Lunaire ^Grand-Rdtel, 150 R. from 6, D. 7, pens, from 10, omn. 
1 fr. • Hdt. de St. Lunaire et de Long champ s ; de Paris, R. 3-5, pens. 8-11 fr. ; 
des Bains, pens. 7-10 fr. •, English-American Hotel, Hot. de la Terrasse, both 
small) and St. Briac (H6tel des Panoramas, on the beach, pens. 7fr. -, du 
Centre; de France; de la Houle), 13/4 and 33/4 M. farther to the W., also 
afford excellent bathing and beautiful views of the rocky coast and islands. 
There are good golf-links (18 holes) at St. Briac. Living at both these 
watering-places is more primitive than at Dinard or St. Malo, though 
not much less expensive. It is advisable to make enquiries beforehand. 

IV. Excursions from St. Malo. 
Comp. the Maps to the right and left of the Flan at p. 194. 
To Cancale. 9 M. Stkam Tramway (fares 1 fr. 20 and 85 c.) via Parami 
(p. 196), LaBeuglais, St. MUoir-les-Ondes, and (6 M.) St. Coulomb. Onani^"^ 
from La Gouesniere (p. 204; 1 fr.). — Branch also to La Houle (p. 199; 
1 fr. 25, 90 c). Steamers sometimes ply to Cancale in the season (there 
and back 4 fr.). Excursion Brakes, see p. 194. 



L.E, M'PIN ! - b A i N i - M IjyitlilL 




Plan gene 







-=^iS: 






f^^^ 



^^>.?^*- ^ 



zaiAtelet ^^M 

4 Jiz/te das- 6tzrrfar^«<^, „ 

5 Crypte de. VAquiLon '^'''>m1mHiil^t:i^i^SSnm0'^ 

Abbaye (liaiitexir dela salle des Gardes 

^Pramerujir " ■ 

7 Crypte- des Gros 
PiUers 



Abbaye (haaitexo' dje Te^se basse) 




apres Paul &out 



Gi- a ve etinrprimp^acr "Wagner A Debes.l w 



MONT ST. MICHEL. 28. Route. 199 

Ca.nc&le (Hotel Du Ouesdin, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8-12 fr.; du 

^ 'Ti^ai'-^^^'l ^' ^^^''''^P'^ ^«j- 2. pens. 6-7 fr. ; de France), a town 
vath 7Ubl inhab., is magnificently situated on a height above the bay 
of the same name, also called the bay of St. Michel. Its small har- 
bour, known as La Houle, lies about 1/2 M. to the S. The leading 
industry of the town is the rearing of oysters, which enjoy a high 
reputation. Ihe oyster-beds cover a total area of 430 acres. The 
Rochers de Cancale form an islet well seen from the neighbourhood 
of the town. The height above the bay also commands a noble * View. 

rf ^®. ?°?K !h Michel. Railway to (28 M.) Pontorson in VL.2 hrs 
(fares A fr. 95, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 15 c.) and Steam Tramway then.P in H m\ 
Mont St. Michel in 1/2 hr.' (fares 1 fr. 15, 85, 55 c); returnXeJfrom St M^o 
, including tramway, 8 fr. 15, 6 fr. 70, '5 fA 50 c'' In summer pubTc vehices 
also ply from Pontorson to Mont St. Michel (51/2 M., lV2Srfr ^hlre and 

olT ^o^^/^V^^^^ ^'^ ?°^' ^^^^« ^« «^^"g« carriages, see 
p. 2U4.— 20M. La Boussac; 25 M. PLeine-Fougeres, beyond which 
we cross the Couesnon and the railway to Vitre. The Couesnon is 
the boundary between Brittany and Normandy. 

28 M. Pontorson [Hot. de Bretagne, R. from 2 D 3 fr • de 
I Quest, R 2-3 D. 31/2 fr.), a small seaport with 2728 inhab., lies at 
the mouth of the canalized Couesnon. It is the junction of lines to 
tnrm' ^ ''^'^^®' C^^^^^^'^rg) and to Vitre (Paris) ; see pp. 178 

The Tramwat to Mont St. Michel starts at the railway-station 
and runs to the W. of the road, joining it only at the embankment 
mentioned below. - The carriage-road turns to the right at the 
public fountain. The last portion runs along an embankment or 
lTT7'<,^^lnl\^- ^"^«"gt^ constructed in 1879 across the Bay 
tLml ' *' "^"'^ '''''' *' *^' ^^""^^ "* ^" ^*^*«^ ^^ 

oai.^^f *^® flat expanse of the Bap of St. Michel (100 sq. M ) the tide rP 
ca'i'^a L' %t:T "' ^'/' ''•' ^"^ '•"^^^^ '"^ again quLer than a horse 

R 3Vrdoi®*2i/^D^?V ~ ^'^l:- '^--"«— B P0U.AH0 R.o«zs, 
or D ^ fr"^' -Rnom?- 2 ^'l, °"^^l«"es a specialty; Dugoesclin, R. 2, dej 
Cnf/vJ u?^^ ^^''''^^ ^^ engaged in advance in aumme" - Cafls 
flt^as^o ef "iw '^t'-/"-^^ ^'' /?m^«r^,. - Visitors shou?d^re their visH 
Granville) On l„n^^ ?^^>.° ^^'^^' approximately as at St. Malo or 
sion°sts. ' ""^"^^^^ *^' ^"°* '' ^^e'-crowded with excur- 

rn./^°'*- ^\f^''^^^ '' * '""^^^ ^^^1^^^' ^^i^g^'^g to a curiously isolated 
b/v nfT^ ^^^ ^*- '^'"' *^^ '^^•'^^' ^^ ^^°d« ^* *^« «^d of the wide 
of fhP ^^ V^'^"^"' '^'^i '/'^ ^- ^'""^ *»^« «^<^^«- Ro^^^d the foot 
of the rock run the ancent '^Fortip rations, dating mainly from the 



200 Route 28. MONT ST. MICHEL. Excursions 

lotli cent., and consisting of thick and lofty walls, strengthened by 
towers and bastions. The summit of the rock is occupied by the 
buildings of the ancient monastery, and on tlie highest point of all 
is the church. The general effect is singularly picturesque. 

The **Abbby is reached by a flight of steps, beginning at the 
highest part of the village, or (better) by the ramparts, which we 
ascend opposite the Hotel Poulard. The ascent is made in about 
Y4hr. The buildings, largely hewn out of the rock, are of different 
forms and various periods, but most of them date from the ll-13th 
centuries. The largest and most interesting is La Merveille, to the 
right. Visitors are admitted daily in summer from 8 to 6, at other 
seasons 9-11 and 12-4 (fee to the guidej. 

The Benedictine Abbey of Mont St. Micliel was founded in 708 by 
St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, in obedience to the commands of the 
Archangel Michael, who appeared to him in a vision. The rock, pre- 
viously known as Moiis Tumba, had been a pagan sanctuary. The monks 
were protected by RoUo and the succeeding rulers of Normandy, and in 
1066 they sent six ships to assist William in the con(iuest of England. 
Pilgrims resorted to the rock in great numbers, and their pious gifts 
greatly enriched the monastery. Learning also flourished here, and in the 
12th cent, the ab])ey was known as the 'City of Books', from its extensive 
collection of MSS. In 1203 Philip Augustus burned the monastery, then 
an English possession, but he afterwards rebuilt it when he himself 
became master of Normandy. Mont St. Michel was the only Norman 
fortress that successfully defied Henry V. of England. In 1254 St. Louia 
visited the rock; and in 146'J Louis XI. founded the knightly order of 
St. Michel. Abuses and disorders began to prevail among the Benedictine 
monks here, and in 1622 they were replaced by brethren of the order of 
St. Maur, who remained until the Revolution. The monastery then became 
state property and was used as a prison until 1863, when it was restored 
to its religious uses under the Bishop of AvrancheS'. It is now being 
restored at the expense of the state. The Abbey of St. Michael's Mount 
in the Bay of Penzance, was an offshoot of Mont St. Michel. 

We enter by the Ckatelet, a lofty donjon of the 15th cent., flanked 
by two projecting turrets, and after visiting the Salle des Gardes 
ascend the Grand JDegre Ahbatial to a platform (250 ft.) known as 
the Saut Gaultier, from a prisoner who perished in an attempt to 
escape in the 16th century. The adjoining Churchy begun in 1020 
in the Norman style, has undergone many modifications. The nave 
possessed formerly seven bays, but three have been removed. The 
beautiful choir is in the Gothic style of the 15th century. In the 
chapels of the ambulatory are some interesting bas-reliefs of the 
period. From the outer gallery we have a good view of the central 
tower, which has been rebuilt in the original style, with a Gothic 
spire, and since 1897 has been once more surmounted by a gilded 
bronze statue of St. Michael (total height, 510 ft.). The 'staircase 
of lace' is no longer shown. 

On quitting the church we find ourselves on a level with the 
third story of *La Merveille (1203-28), a huge building abutting 
against the rock on the N. On this story we visit the *Cloisters^ a 
masterpiece of the 13th cent. (1225-28), forming a rectangle 27 yds. 
long by 15 yds. broad. They contain 220 columns of polished granite 



% 



from St Malo MONT ST. MICHEL. 2«. RouU. 201 

100 eDgaged in the walls and the others rauffed in ,1„„k, 
with graceful vaults, and embellished wUhexouistte '""^''' 
beautUul frieze, and inscriptions. Adjac" t is S.^ T Tf ' ^ 
wards a dormitory), of the same epoth _ Fr^m thp .t "'^ ^""T 
cloisters we descend to the PrommoiV fearlv 12th . ,^°."'i° *' 
c(e fAquUon filth cent 1 vaHn?. i '' '^ l-Jthcent), the Crypte 
cemetery. The wld for'J,^ ?^°'''' ^°<1 » ^rj/pt used as a 

is also Lwn - Some CO ri^''"""T' ''°"«^" inclined plane 
to the ChapcUc St ZrL7l?,h ?f ""=!; '^"^""'^ Passable lead 
church, and o i>f S^i" ' Z^'.""''" '^,\S. transept of the 

the choir of the churc7so calledZ'i^ r' ■^^."' ""''^^ "'"""'' 

^^i:-.:ir(T3th°cei^~^^^^^^ 

unsuccessful attack in 1591 L tL^^r.^M ''' '" ^'°^"^>^ ^^ ^^ 
the Huguenots. ^ ' ^''^ ^^ Montgomery, leader of 

In a lane to the rie-ht of fh^ ^ •,. c 
Museum (1 fr.), a miniatuVe M^e JuS ,d ^^iJ^' ^''^^ ''« -^ ^'^^^ ^o^al 

usually a certain depth o/^lter^nSr thl^""' ''' "^'^f '^^y-^«<l' «« there is 

Visitors who desire to wak on the ««nH->'^^^'^^^-^'^^ ^° ^ ^«^*' ^ f'')' 
of the tides (p. 199). "^^ *^^ '^^^^ «^«'^l<i carefully ascertain the hours 

To Dinan. a. Bt the Range I7i/„ m o* 
season, starting at hours determrn.H h ^^^ ^, f ^'^"^t in 2 hours in the 
quay near the Porte srVitentfroniL^I/ ?'" '^' ''"^^^' ^^««» ^he 
not always return the same day F^ef Ihoti'tl' ^"'^^- ^^^ ^0^*^ do 
return-tickets 1/2-2 fr. extra. - 'Vedette? -^ -'' ^''^^^^'^^^S *« class ; 

summer (3 fr., return 4V2 fr.). "^^^^^^^ also make the excursion in 

do not^'p^h^p^^^uS^^^ S"S'r:^,S^,*^%?--«- '' *^« ^-ce 
advisable both to go and come hv Vl? J Potation. It is, therefore, hardly 

owed by the stealer is nrrong^^nou.h'for'S'"""^ "^ *^^ ^"'^^^^^ a^ 
interesting town of Dinan. enough for the proper inspection of the 

The steamer touches at Dinard fn 1 Q?^ w i. 
spect of St. Malo, and thL fl tli Wt^V I l^^^ ' ^°" '^*^«- 
Tour deSolidor and the roadstead On tl^^^^^^ ^^'^ *^« 

^..^««ao, on arruth":;:^";:,^-: :!^;;t„?;htr3tVc''^'''^" 

^ehind us, to the right, is Le MMIUc. To the left i, th. P , "/■ 
Ihe channel contracts at the Fointe St. Jean ZZ is about 



202 Route 28. DINAN. Excursions 

halfway to Dinan; opposite rises the picturesquely-situated Chateau 
de La Roche. The river again expands. In the distance, to the left, 
rises the church of PLeudihen. To the right, above a mill, lies 
PLouer. The modern tower of Le Chene-Vert is a picturesque object 
as we look back upon it. To the left is Mordreuc. The channel 
again narrows considerably and the banks become wooded. To the 
left is the attractive little valley of the Prat. Above the wooded bank 
rise rocky heights. At a curve of the river we see the imposing Via- 
duct on the railway from Dol to Dinan, 105 ft. high. Fine view 
behind us and picturesque rocks (to the left 'La Demoiselle'). A 
little beyond the viaduct is the Lock of Le Chdtelier. The surplus 
water of the river sometimes escapes in a pretty waterfall (to the 
left). The banks now become low and the scenery monotonous. 
To the left is the fine Chateau de Griilemont; to the right are cliffs, 
and in front appears Dinan. Farther on we see, to the left, more 
wooded cliffs and obtain a picturesque view of the town and viaduct. 
Dinan, see below. Omnibus to the station, on the other side of 
the town, 1 fr. 

b. By Railway, 32 M., in 2 hrs. (6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 55 c). 

A junction-line, 9 M. shorter, runs between La OouesnUre-Cancale, the 
first station (p. 204), and Miniac-Morvan (p. 178), but there is no difference 
made either in the time or the fare. The branch passes Chdteauneuf, 
with an old ruined castle. 

From St. Malo to (15 M.) Dot, see p. 204. From Dol to (32 M.) 
Dinan, see p. 178; this line is a continuation towards the W. of that 
from Pontorson (p. 199). 

32 M. Dinan (see Plan, p. 194). — Hotels. De BfiETACNE (PI. a), 
Place Duclos, R. from 4, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8, omn, V* fr.; 
DE Paris et d'Angleterre (PL b), Rue Thiers, R. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. 3, 
pens, from 8V2, omn. 1/2 fr., English; de la Poste (PI. c), Place Du 
Guesclin 21, B. 1, ddj. 21/2, D. 3, pens, from 9, omn. V2-V4 fr., English; 
Marguerite, Place Du Guesclin 27, R. 2-4, B. 3/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 71/2-9, 
omn. 1/2 fr. ; de l'Europe, at the station, R. 2, dej. 2, D. 21/2 fr. — Pensions. 
Mme. St. Gal, Bellevue, Les Buttes, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Mile. Fetithomme, Rue 
des Buttes. — Railway Restaurant. 

Steamboat to St. Malo, starting from the harbour near the old bridge, 
at variable hours, announced on bills posted in the town (comp. p. 199). 

English Church (Christ Church), in Rue Broussais (services at 11 and 6); 
chaplain, Rev. Q. P. Irby, M. A., Les Tilleuls, Rue de TEsperance. 

Syndicat d'Initiative, Agence Latouche, Rue de Cocherel. ^ 

Dinan., an ancient town of 11,078 inhab., with curious and pictur- 
esque houses and streets, is finely situated on a height on the left 
bank of the Ranee. 

Quitting the station, we follow the Rue Thiers to the fine promen- 
ade known as the Orands-Fosses. Farther on, beyond the little Place 
Duclos, the Petits-Fosses diverge to the right. On both sides con- 
siderable remains of the Ramparts of the 13th and 14th cent, are 
still extant. The suburb to the right is largely inhabited by the 
English colony (about 350). 

From the harbour we ascend to the viaduct, whence we reach the 
centre of the town, and visit the promenades and the castle last. — 



ftom 8L Malo. DINAN. 28. Route. 203 

In the Place Duclos is the modern Hdtel de Ville. The street to the 
left leads hence to the Place Du Guesclin, embellished with an 
equestrian statue of the ConnetaUe Du Guesclin, who recaptured the 
town from the English in 1359, by Fremiet (1902). The Place oc- 
cupies the site of the field in which he defeated in single combat 
an English knight, named by the Breton chroniclers 'Sir Thomas of 
Cantorbery - Farther on, to the right, is the Chateau of the Duchess 
Anne, erected in the 14th cent, and partly built into the ancient 
town-walls. 1 Ins interesting pile was recently carefully restored and 
n W.7 f ^ f^-^J^, containing antiquities, coins, funeral monuments, 
objects of natural history, etc. (adm. daily 8-7; tickets are sold in 

liew T." T^-- ^^t 'r^'^^' ^^^ ''' ^^ ^«ig^*' commands a fine 
Tiew. — The exterior of the castle is best viewed from the Petits- 
l^osses, to which we may descend by the Porte St. Louis (see below). 

tnwn ti. r ^^^^t*^^^ ^'^^' *^ *^^ °^^^* picturesque parts of the 
town skirting the base of steep rocks, tiU it reaches the banks of 

vW, t'i!' "^"'^'^ '^™'^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^ff«^^ ^^^ious attractive 

Zr i AaJ!\^^ spanned by an imposing stone * Viaduct, 270 yds. 
IZVt ^ ^'' ^^g^— Thence we ascend direct to the cenire of the 
town the narrow streets of which contain many quaint old houses. 
Ihe church of St. Sauveur, in the neighbourhood, to the left is 

GoTmc" Vhf^"' '"' "^'* ''^' '' "'^^^ ^^ Romane'sque, th^ ^eft 
trothic. The Romanesque portal is unfortunately in very bad nre- 

Td".^^.''' "^.'*"^^ ^^ ^"^^"^^ '^ *^^ e Jerior Jth arcaJes 
bay in the 15th century. There is but one aisle, consisting of the 
Gothic part of the W. arm. The choir is also Gothic. The holy- 
Tom theT^tr^?*'^ Y ^rtf ^''' '' '^' '''' '' '^' ^"*^^^«^ dates 
trom the 12th century. In the N. transept is a stone marking the spot 

cho?r Vh T ^i^^^*-"^ ^- ^-^^-^^ is b-ied ; and in oVe of The 
TTphYnf^r ' r ." '^"'' ''^^^ ^'^ *^^ *^^*«f^l Clothic credences. - 
^ehmd this church is the Jardin Anglais, whence a pleasant new 
promenade affording fine views of the picturesque valley of thi 
Ranee leads by the old ramparts to the Porte St. Louis (see above) 
Rn/r ."™^ street opposite the left transept is continued by the 

^Z?n/'T^TJ' '^' '^^ ^^^ ^^ •'^^^^«^' l^^ding to the Porte du 
Jerzual one of the most curious parts of the old tow, Gothic out- 

a sfmiLr h ^r"'^""! ''^*^.^°- ^ ^'^^' '' *^^ ^^f* i« t^^ ^orteSt, Malo, 
a similar but less interesting structure 

in ll^Rurt m^'^;^ *' '^' ^' i''V^' ^'''' ^*- ^^1^ debouches 
Short of r . ^^"^^^Sf' °«a^ the 15*1^ cent. Tour de VHorloge. 
whi h is th. cT\ ^" *^^"^^ i^ th« Pla^e des Cordeliers, beyond 
wnich is the Grande-Rue, leading back to the Hotel de Ville 

I5th^';ent''^\l'w ' "^^*V ''l'\*^' ^'"''' ^^ ^ ^^^Se church of the 
idtn cent., the W. arm of which was rebuilt in 1856-65 In the 

Stri'l'.v'^' "^""^T P"^"*^"^ ^y Archenault, rep;esenting 
jurist triumphing over Death and Sin. 



204 Route 29. DOL. 

About I'/i M. to the S. of Dinan is lAhon, with a ruined chateau of 
the 12-13th ceut., and the church aud other remains of a priory ot the 
13th century. — The Chateau de la Coninnais (15th cent.) is picturesquely 
situated about 3/* M. to the N. Other excursions may he made to the 
chateau of La Belliire (5V2 M.), formerly the residence of Du Guesclin's wife, 
the Lady Tiphaine, with its curious octagonal chimneys j and to the chateau 
of Za Garaye, famous for the charity and self-sacrifice of Claude Tousaaint 
Comte de la Garaye, and his wife, whose story has been pleasantly versi- 
fied by Mrs. Norton. 

Railway to Lamhalle. joining the line to Brest, see p. 178. 

A branch-railway, 13 M. long, runs from Dinan to Dinard (p. 197) 
passing St. Samson, Pleslin-PlouSr, and Pleurtuit. — Another runs to the 
S. to (24 M.) La Brohiniire (p. 223), on the line from Rennes to Brest. 

29. From St. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (duimper). 
I. From St. Malo to Eennes. 

51 M. Railway in 11/2-21/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 20, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 5 c). 

St. Malo, see p. 194. To the right as we leave St. Malo appears 
St. Servan (p. 197). — From (51/2 M.) La Oouesniere-Cancale an 
omnibus plies to Cancale (71/2 M. ; see p. 198); and a branch-line 
leads to Miniac (p. 202). 8^/2 ^- ^-a Fresnais. Farther on the line 
crosses the marsh of Dol (see below). 

14 M. Dol (Buffet, de'j. or D. 21/2 fr. ; Grand' Maison, in the town, 
R. from 21/2, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.; Hot. de La Gare), a town with 4588inhab., 
still preserves many quaint mediaeval houses, with the first stories 
projecting over the street and supported by arches. The Cathedral^ 
an interesting building of the 13th and IGth cent, is dedicated to 
St. Samson, an-English monk who is said to have founded a monastery 
on the site of Dol ; and some authorities are inclined to trace the 
influence of English architects in the square end of the choir and in 
other particulars (comp. p. 76). The W. facade, with its two towers 
of the 13th and 16th cent., is remarkably plain, but the S. transept 
has a handsome 14th cent, portal with a porch. There is a portal 
(15th cent.) on the S. side of the nave also, but none on the N., 
where the church touched the town-walls, and where the chapels are 
furnished with battlements. The church also possesses a central tower. 
The large window of the choir is filled with good stained glass of the 
13th century. The N. transept contains the tomb of Bishop James 
(d. 1504), by Jean Juste; unfortunately it is mutilated and has lost 
the statue. In the apse is a fine chapel dedicated to St. Samson. 

Near Carfantain, about IV4 M. to the S.E., is the Stone of Dol or of the 
Champ Dolent, a menhir 30 ft. high, surmounted by a cross. — About P/t M. 
to the N. is the Marais de Dol, a fertile plain inundated in 709 but re- 
claimed in the i2th cent., and protected by a 'digue' or embankment 
22 M. in length. In the middle of the plain rises the Mont Dol (210 ft.), 
on which is situated a village with a 15th cent, church. 

Railways to Pontorson (Mont St. Michel) and Dinan, etc., see p. 178. 

24^2 M. Comboury (Hot. du Chateau et desVoyageurs ; de France). ' 
The town (5208 inhab.) lies about ^/^ M. to the left and possesses 
a chateau (14-15th cent.) belonging to the Chateaubriand family, in 
which the famous author of that name spent part of his childhood. — 



I 




A' . - . 

Seiumau'P 







.Milit 



S^Ktinuue 



HaHe » a 



S* 



jSr.D.en. •'■' — -^ 

SS-JUelaine '-"■% 'tt 3^ 

J ? '. •■•■ •' 



V Place ^^fu/ofj/iOTiiS^ -^ -< ttti 

• ^7 yie I a ' " '^ pi.S 
^ ,, Wcincr.de Jfeiaiup 

SX'Aniic i^^'s-.A' ,3 la.'VlKitartion li 

j5 S 'l-'-'fU «a ChOT.cL.5 TJihbgr . , 






=av\itin? 






QutcrtifT (t-''i ^ 












'ICJ'ou 



tVd iTtlhtpO-'Tj: s if m e 

«.i HaUc 







raseriie - ,, j;cflle 



axe et utgrnine pai 



RENNiHS. 29.Iioule. 205 

We now descend the pretty vaUey of the canalized lUe, crossinff 

35 M. m. Medard-sur-IUe; 38 M. St. Qermain-suT-llle - 42l/o M 
Betton. - We quit the Ille valley and cross the Vilav^e. ' 

61 M. Rennes. - Hotels. 'Hotel Modeene (PI. d; a, B 3) Ouai 
UKAND noTEL (Fl. a; A, 3), Rue de la Monnaie 17, R. from 3 B 1 dp'i 4 
rt>l i). B W^' ?"*? belonging to the same coiLpany'SoT. be FbSS 

li.fr'^^ J (pfB^fdlj^^ofl!: 2V.^pe'^s. ?rZ V?.f om°^^ V^^Ji ^^J- 
?8fr V *^V^^^* opposite the Station, R. from 2,^?j. iVo '2V? n^ns* 
B 3^ 'dfiQ' D Ti^T' ^^.f?%lf ^0PP0«ite the rcJilwiy'stationrk^ 2 l" 

France f';e abovS ^f'/ ^''/^ t;,.^^?'' ^' *^« Grand-H6tel and Hot. de 

^(^>s.7. ?:?si^r ^^^^ '-" ^"S' ofth'eireS'e. -i 

Pflha T> ^4^*'«'f,'^' ^^e d" Champ-Jacquet 25 (PI. B, 2) 

^'e" pt.'^^T'^ (PJ-^' 5) to the Octroi rKrT(?omp. p'l ^i) 2) 4 From' 

b Vral itfT -^'^^P- ^^- ^' 3) to the Cro^•x-k^&r (comp^'pj D 4? 
0. i<rom the Croix- St- HHier rcomn PI T> /!■» *^ +v.i Jr /." , ' *-'• 

6. From the Oc^ro^- ae PanAo7eZl. ^ilFes 1U5 c^"' """"'""'^ ^^ ^ ^'^• 
(34 M ) J^Jlm 7ir^009? i?^ .^-^ ^-C^^' /^^.^-^ '^^^ ^^^^^-dn-Cormier, and 

Za GueJL-i.BrZlllfl\m on fhr^'F"" ^^.'^ ?« /^m ('T^^'^^f ^°^ ^^l M.) 
rr^^i (ick\i ^X m- .1 .^'^' ^''> ^^ *^® O.E.; to (8V2M.) La Mdzi^re f15 M ^ 
2 /« K • ^'"'1«^«^' and (35 M.) Miniac-Morvan (p. 178) on the N E 
to Za il/^ri^re (see above) and (23 M.) B^erel ' ' 

1^ Post & Telegraph Office (PI. B, 3), at the Palais du Commerce 

Rennes, the ancient capital oi Brittany, and now the chief town 

lOtW^^^ "^'"^'l'''^-'*-^^"^"^'^^' *^« headquarters of tie 
10th army corps and the seat of an archbishop, of a university and 
a court of appeal, is a town of 75,640 inhab. situated at the'con- 
fluence of the canalized Ille and the Viloine 

Rennes, the capital of the Eedones, one of the Celtir fpihpo ,-r,i,o-Kw 

K.mTrx/nr'"'"' ^'' ^«™«'iy -lied J^n'rff;; ;\V;L'condt 

the'^^^it^l^^o^'thl Chy'^F'^tltrn^^t^/V.'^T^".^' '' ^^ ^"'--"' 
(p. 1^-3). Few traces of it^, nL-/ t -^ ?*'^ ^^^ '^"^^^ P^'sed to France 
of the towrwlsburref down °nS'^^^^ '"T^"' '•' ^^T^^ ^^e whole 
seven days, and since then iTh.A;! ^J .* conflagration that la.Med for 
plan. It bks now mtll J^^ \ ^^^° ''^'''^* ^^ ^ '"'g^'^^ and monoton( us 
Streets ^a^re'ren"e?a^i;'*d';?l,'^iS3T,rnd^SrT^^^^^^ '''' ''' ^^^^^^^ --'"'^ 

rPl'\)''M^ti^*th7t^'''' ^'"*'' "'' ^^'^'^^^ ^^« railway-station 

To the left of fhl A VTV '^' "^^* ^"'^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^"e- 

10 the left of he Avenue de la Gare is the spacious CUmT-de-Mars 

-ructnre in the style of the ITth^e'r a rol'i'n'^hrh Z'Z:i 



206 Route 29. KENNES. Muaee. 

for the second trial of Capt. Dreyfus, in Aug. 1899. It occupies the 
site of a Jesuit college, of which the only relic now left is the 
Eglise Toussaints (PI. C, 3), a little behind the university. Farther 
on, on the quay, is the Palais Vniversitaire^ partly occupied by the 
*Musee (PI. C, 3), which includes various scientific collections and 
one of the finest provincial picture galleries in France (open on Sun. 
& Thurs., from 12 to 4 or 5, on other days on application). The 
principal entrance faces the quay, but on the days when the museum 
is not open to the public we enter by the back (Rue TouUier). 

Ground Floor. — Sculpturks, for the most part modern and in plaster 
(Rodin, *Bust of a woman; David d' Angers, "Bust of Lamennais ; Coysevox, 
Bronze bns-relief from the old monument of Louis XIV. in the Place du 
Palais, p. 207). — A New Room here contains paintings by Coroi, Diaz, 
Rohert-Fleury, Dupre, Ziem, Prud'hon, and Lagrenie. — The galleries beyond 
this room contain the Natural History Collections. 

First Floor. — Pictures. The staircase and Room I contain Engravings 
and 'Drawings, by old masters, and also several paintings (by Guido Reni, 
Drouais, Jouvenet, etc.). — Room II. Modern paintings. 

Room III. To the right: 235, 236. ./. Courtois, Landscape^; •, 301. Patel, 
Landscape with ruins; *84. De Crayo', Raising of the Cross; 21. Giordano, 
Martyrdom of St. Lawrence; 251. Ferdinand (of Rennes), Presentation of 
the Virgin. — Van Kessel, 104. Terrestrial paradise, 105. ISToah's Ark; 271. 
Jouvenet, Ghrisi in Gethsemane; 294.^on</iorA?,Betting ; 81. Bassano, Penelope ; 
85. De Crayer, Kaising of Lazarus; 38. Ricci, St. Barbara; '101. Honthorst, 
Denial of St. Peter. — 89. Van Dyck{l), Holy Family; -103. Jordaens, Cruci- 
fixion; 102. Huysmans, Landscape; 17. Cerquozzi, Fruit and flowers; 81. 
Philip de Champaigne, Penitent Magdalen (1657); 139. Rubens (?) and Snyders, 
Lion and tiger hunt; *10. Paolo Veronese, Perseus delivering Andromeda; 
110. Zo</?, Woman taken in adultery; 144. Schwartz, Crucifixion. 

Room IV. 165. P. Wouverman, Horse- fair; 29. Palomino de Velasco, 
Vision of St. Anthony. — 13. Ann. Caracci, Repose in Egypt; 137. Pourbus 
the Younger, Charron, the author; *296. Le iVaire, The new-born child; 146. 
Snyders, Wounded dog; 311. Quesnel, Portrait; *255. Claude Lorrain, Land- 
scape; 212. Bon Boulogne, Children and birds; 221. Casanova, Destruction 
of abridge (three other paintings of this series farther on); 135. P. Neeffs 
the Elder, Interior; 87. Gerrit van Hees (not Decker), Landscape with cattle; 
305. Povssin, Ruins of a triumphal arch; 302. Patel, Landscape with ruins. — 
3. J. de Arellano, Flowers; Ant. Coypel, 239. Venus bringing arms to iEneas, 
240. Jupiter and Juno upon Mt. Ida; Seghers, St. John the Evangelist. — 
282. Vanloo, Portrait; 167. Wynants, Landscape; 111. Maas, A magistrate; 
96. Francken the Younger, Jesus at the house of Simon; 1C6. TFynaw^s, Land- 
scape; 132. W. van Mieris , Lady at her toilette; 162. Viicheli'i), Man 
listening to a woman who robs him; 153. Tenters the Younger, Tavern; 
*138. Rembrandt, Young woman having her nails cut by an old one; 164. /. 
Wildens, Landscape; 134. Mytens , Fete; 159. S. Koninck (not Van Tol), 
Dutch interior; 109. Leermans, Trumpeter and maid servant; 297. Le Nain, 
Madonna, St. Anne, the Holy Child, and angels; *237. Jean Cousin 0), 
Jesus at the marriage in Cana of Galilee, a large painting from the church 
of St. Gervais, at Paris; 76. Adr. van Ostade (not Brouwer), Topers in a 
barn; 99. Van Uerp, 'LaVierge au chardonneret' (goldfinch); 224. Chardin, 
Still-.'ife; 73. /. van der Bent, Landscape; 246. Dumoutier, Portrait of an 
old woman; 131. Mieris the Elde)', The painter's sons; no number. Van der 
Werff, Moses saved from the water. — 72. Riga, View of Marseilles; 16i. 
M. van Heemskerck, St. Luke painting the Virgin. ~ Casfs; Sevres porcelain. 
Room V. 331. French School, Ball at the court of the Valois ; 24. Lucatelli, 
Landscaje; no number, Licy, Death of ,Tohii the Baptist; 318. School of 
Fontainehleau, Woman no longer young ; 325. CI. Vignon, St. Catharine ; 
no number, Restouf, Orpheus ; 216. /. Callot, Landscape. — 14. L. Caracci, 
Martyrdom of St. Peter and of St. Paul ; 276. Lebrun, De,' cent from the 
Cross; 252. Ferdinand, Crucifixion. — 238. N. Coypel, Resurrection! 115-130. 



CatkedraL RENNES. 29. Route. 207 

Van der Mevlen and his School, Battle-nieces- 919 /)-.«.-... -m- ,^ , 
318^. Tonrnieres, Portrait of k FrenKarshal^ 21W^S '. T'^^^/^"''*' 
80. 'Velvet' Brueghel, Village on a can^l ^Q '/r- V" •^- ^""''^^ Landscape; 
Innocents; 298. iVToio^Ve, St. Stephen ~ ^'^'^^^^•Wo, Massacre of the 

to th'^eTd Voor'opt: he'rf °' '' i-Portance. The door of the staircase 

,oJTifl''of fu'tuStT?iT'47"Th1 Sstftf'Ti-"^ ^T.^«^' ^-- 

Tanneguy-Duchatel carrying off the Daunh ^fPhl ^ '"^^I'f ?-.~ ^^- ^^"''^^^ 
to save him from the attlckf of the Duk? of iSgund^ f IiSvTtW ^ 
Landscape; /". Zafow£? Mornino- om^i- rl^^ ^ *'^^^^^-> ^'°- ^^'Ver, 
Guillemot, Sappho and' PhaonSb5~l?oLSrfc^ ^^ennes), Landscape; 262: 
Feyen-Ferrin,Sleemng nymph' 207 « 2 t 1' ? '''' ** ^^^''^ ' "'^ number, 
in a wood;'l96.^JJ'/?^/o}, Nlomf^nd'^^^^^^^^^ "^ °^-^^^' ^^^--; 

prisi?g%'oSd TnTc^^t^r b*^nl^: l^rrro^T ^^^^^^' ^^ 
arms, casts of ancient gems and othP. n.-fA,--! 1° objects, vases, medals, 

and various other anSit^es There 1.r.fi''^J''*' ^'^'^^^ i° *^« •i^^t"^* 
early Italian school, inc"udin^ Jfrf^fwif ^^'^^ several paintings of the 
presentation of Death said to hp n«,S^h #?«"^ed to Giotto, and a re- 
room (Salle Aussa;TcSaL?:ronSoI?f"flyt^^^ 

th. ., . . ' ^''^'"' ^"^ *^" "Sht of the Quai de I'Universite'' and 

On thp N -^ . .. J?""''P^^ ^P^" spaces Of the town. 
On the N side of this Place stands the Palais de Justice m 
C, 2), erected for the Parlement of Brittanv in 1fi1« 51 f t ^ 

in a semicircular form h, f ^'*^««;-e, on the opposite side, is also 

a stjiuitircuiar lorm, but presents its convex side to thp VUn^ 

^;^.i^t"e farther on rises the Cathedral r^f Pierre- PI A q^ 
I" the lane opposite the cathedral rises the PorU MordclaU. 



208 Route 29. RENNRS. From Rennes 

(PI. A, 3"), an interesting relic of the mediaeval fortifications of the 
town (15th cent.), surrounded hy old houses. Through this gate the 
Dukes of Brittany and Bishops of Rennes made their formal entries 

into the town. 

A little to the right, farther on, is the Church of St. Stephen (PI. A, 2), 
of the 17th cent., containing several statues by Barrd, stained-glass win- 
dows hy Lavergne, and a painting hy Jourjon. 

We now follow the Rue de la Monnaie (PI. A, 3, B, 2). The fourth 
turning on the left brings us to a small square with a hronze statue, 
hy Dolivet, of Leperdit^ maire of Rennes during the Terror, who had 
the courage to resist the ferocious Carrier (p. 258). Farther to the N. 
is the large unfinished modern Gothic church of Notre- Dame-de- 
Bonne-Nouvelle (PI. B, 2), whence the Rue St. Melaine leads to the 
E. to the church of Notre- Dame-en-Saint- Melaine (PI. D, 2), an 
ahhey-church of the ll-13th cent., with a tower surmounted hy a 
modern statue of the Virgin. The chief interior adornments are the 
monument hy Valentin (near the entrance), the Gothic high-altar, 
and the choir screen in carved wood, all modern. 

A little farther on, to the right, is the Thabor (PI. D, 2), part of the 
garden of the former Abbev of St. Melaine, and now the chief open-air 
resort of Hennes; it is embellished with a figure of Liberty and with a 
statue of Du Guesclin, the celebrated Connetable of France, who was born 
near Rennes (see p. 224) in 1314 or 1320 (d. 1380). On the E. this promenade 
is adjoined by the Jardin des Plantes (PI. D, 2), which is open to the 
public and affords extensive views. 

From the Place St. Melaine we return by the Contour de la Motte, 
passing the modern Chapelle des Missionnaires, the Prefecture^ and 
the promenade of La Motte, upon an ancient moat-hill. The Rue 
Victor-Hugo leads thence to the right to the Place du Palais, while 
the Rue Gambetta descends straight to the Vilaine, which it reaches 
beside the Faculte des Sciences (PI. C, D, 3) of the university. On 
the opposite bank begins the Avenue de la Gare (p. 205). 

A walk may be taken, on the left bank of the Vilaine, to the Chdieau 
de la Privalaye, famous for its butter (2 M. to the S.E. of Uennes). 

From Rennks to Chateaubriant (Angers), 38 M., railway in lV2-2V4hr3. 
(fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 60 c, 3 fr.)- — 15 M. Janzi. About 2 M. to the N.W. of tlie 
station of (21 M.) Retiers lies Essi, with a large dolmen or 'Alice Couyerte 
named the Roche aux Fies. - At (28V2 M.) Martigni-Ferchaud this railway 
joins the line from Vitre (p. 223). — 38 M. Chdteaubriant, see p. 2by. 

From Rennes to Brest, see R. 31 : to Paris (Le Mans, Chartres), pee K. dU. 

II. From Uennes to Vannes (Quimper). 

a. Via Redon. 

79 M. Railway in 2V2-3V4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60 c). Ry 
some trains carriages are changed at Redon, where we pass from tne 
Chemin de Fer de TOuest to the Chemin de Fer d'Orleans. 

The valley of the Vilaine, which this line follows more or less 
all the way to Redon, crossing repeatedly from one bank to the other, 
affords numerous picturesque views of wooded hills and rocky summits 
surmounted by castles and chateaux. — At (23 M.) Mes.'ac our line 
is joined by one from Chateaubriant to Ploermel (p. 209). We now 



to Vanned. PLOERMEL. ?9. Route. 209 

cross a viaduct 70 ft. high and traverse a tunnel 1/2 M. long. 32V2 M. 
Bede. At (36 M.) Masserac we join the line from Chateaubriant 
and Segre (p. 269). The train passes through a marshy district. 
40 M. Avesmc. To the left runs the railway to Nantes. — 441/2 M. 
Bedon, and thence to Vannes and Quimper, see pp. 253-248. 

b. Via Ploermel. 
84 M. Railway in 32/4-61/2 hrs. (fares about 15 fr. 45, 10 fr 45 6 fr 
75 c). Carnages are changed at La Brohiniere, Ploermel, and Questembert! 
From Rennes to (23 M.) La Brohiniere, see p. 223. We diverge 
to the S. from the line to Brest, and traverse a bleak region, which 
however, abounds in rude monolithic monuments. — 271/2 m' 
St. Mien (2956 inhab.) has an ancient abbey of the 12-13th cent- 
uries. Branch to Loudeac (p. 233). — 31 V2 M. Gael; 36 M. Mauron 
441/2 M. Loyat. On the right is the large Etang au Due. 

r49 M. Ploermel (Hot. de France, R. from 2, dej. 21/2, D. 3, omn 
1/2 fr., good; du Commerce, similar charges), a town of 5424 inhab 
retains P^rt of its old walls (15th cent.). The Church of St. Armel 
rebuilt in 1511-1602, with a tower added in 1740, has a very fine 
N. portal and good stained glass of the 16th century, and contains 
two sepulchral statues of the 14th century. A Romanesque cloister 
r" *?A.?f'^ Seminaire contains the tomb of Philippe de Montauban 
(d. 1517) and his wife, decorated with statues and statuettes 

Qi; l^^'^a^'^'^'^a^^'^^,.'' F''''''nl (L^^i'^^^^ 56 M., narrow-gauge railway in 
fhi" \^t ^^V ^ ^'- .^^' ^ *'■• ^^.^•^- - ^^^^ f^V4 M.) Gnillac, to the left of 
*J?.® l^"®' "ses a modern pyramid, commemorating the famous Comhnt nf 
Thirty fought between 30 Breton and SO English^nlghfs^n 1351 Afte{ 
a most sanguinary contest the former, commanded by .lean de Beauinannir 
vanquished the latter, who Were led by Bembro (PembroVe?)Tre story 
rests on the anthonty of comparatively modern Breton poets; the names of 
the conquerors are inscribed on the obelisk. It is said that 'as the EnSsh 
were not numerous enough to provide more than 20 champions, 4 Flemings 
and 6 Bretons fought on their side. - 10 M. Josselin (Edt. de Fva^e? I 
small town on the Oust, is commanded by the fine -Castle 12th cent but 
practically rebui t in tlae 16-17th cent.) in which the famous ConnetaSe 
de Chsson died in 1407. It belongs to the Rohan family. The garden- 

'^^^ CImrchof Notre-Dame-clu-Roncier (15th cent.) contains the cenotaph of 
the Constable, with white marble statues of himself and his w?fe sur 
ZZt ^y/t^*"^ttes of monks. The ancient mural paintings should also 
be observed. An annual pilgrimage is made to this spot on the Tuesdav 

;i2^Mr:"7/'''- VJ^r^i-'^?''^-^ MouHn-GUet a braLh runs to Pontiv^ 
(I2V2 M.) and from m^h^.) Locmini (hotels), an old town, a line runs to 
Vannes (p. 251). - Beyond (40 M.) Band-Camors and (42 MO 5aJi^Ji P 
our line crosses the Blavet. - 56 M. Plouay and thence to Lorient, see p 250' 
rfare^Tfr^fif 7"/\n^ 5«^t^^^»«iant, 58V2 M., railway in 23/4-4 hrs! 
The ch irch of f2^ ^ ^u^ ^"- ^^ ?• ' ~ ^.ey^nd (14 M.) Oner we cross the Af. 
ine. Church of (2^ M.) Maure contains a bishop's tomb of the 14th century - 

vii ^rZll ""^ "' ^ """■ ''""" ''"'""'" '•' <*''.M.l PW<,n (p. 206), 
Babdekek's Northern France. 6th Edit. 41 



ivniTn>\^u'xiJijrji . rrom lavis 



Beyond Ploermol we cross the Oust twice, and follow its course 
as far as (59 M.) Malesiroit (Hot. de France; Croix -Verte), a quaint 
old town with a churd of the 12-15tli centuries. — We then cross, 
the Clave and beyond (64 M.) Pleucadeuc traverse the Landes de\ 
Lanvaux. — 691/2 M. Questemhert, and thence to Vannes and Quiinper. 
see pp. 253-248. 



30. From Paris to Rennes. 

^32 M. Railway (Chemvi de Fer de V Quest), from the Gare Mont- 
parnasse (see PI. G, 16; p. 1) or the Gare 8t. Lazare (PI. C, 18), in 53/4-7 hrs. 
(fares 42 fr., 28 fr. 35, 18 fr. 55 c). — From Paris to Le Mans, 131 M., rail- 
way in 3-5^4 brs. (fares 23 fr. 75, 16 fr. 5, 10 fr. 50 c). 

I. From Paris to Chartres. 

541/2 M. Railway in 11/2-21/2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 35 c), 
from the Gare Montparnasse or the Gare St. Lazare (see above). Comn. 
the Map, p. 66. *^ 

From Paris to (13V2 M.) St. Cyr, see p. 185. Farther on the line 
to Cherbourg diverges to the right, and we pass, on the same side, 
the fort of St. Cyr. — 171/2 M. Trappes. About 3 M. to the S.S.E. 
lie the remains of the ancient Ahharje de Port-Royal, founded in 
1204, a favourite retreat, from 1625 to 1656, of men of learning 
and religion, around whom clustered some of the most illustrious 
younger men of the day, such as Pascal and Racine. The attach- 
ment of the society to Jansenism led to its dispersion and to the 
destruction of the convent. — 2OV2 M. La Verriere ,• 231/2 M. Les 
Essarts-le-Roi ,• 26 M. Le Perray. We traverse a small wood. 

30 M. Rambouillet (Croix Blanche/ R. 3-6, pens. 9-12 fr.. 
Lion d'Or, both in the Ptue Nationale), a town with 6165 inhab., 
known for its old chateau, where Francis I. died in 1547. The 
chateau afterwards belonged to Charles d'Angennes, husband of the 
celebrated Marquise de Rambouillet (d. 1665), and was acquired 
for the crown by Louis XVJ. Charles X. signed his abdication here 
in 1830. 

From the station we follow the street to the left, whence the 
Rue Chasles leads to the right to (5 min.) the Place Felix-Faure, 
from which we may enter the Small Park (see below). 

The Chateau or Palais National, reached by the Rue Nationale 
and the avenues in the park beyond the ornamental water, consists 
of a number of incongruous buildings, surrounding an old crenelated 
tower. Neither exterior nor interior is of any special interest. 

The *Parks of the chateau, which surpass the gardens of Ver- 
sailles in size, variety, and natural beauty, are the chief attraction 
of Rambouillet. In front of the chateau is a Parterre, adjoined by 
the Small Park. The sheet of water in the latter is diversified by 
several islets (boat 50 c. per hr. for each pers.). To the right beyond 



i 



? Jardin de la 



SocV7^ 




Crra^r "t imprmip par 



to liennea. CliARTRES. 30. Route. 211 

this lake is the Pare Anglais, which we reach most directly by skirt- 
ing the left margin of the lake and passing through a magnificent 
avenue of Louisiana cypresses, said to be unique in Europe. The 
English Park contains streams of water, a chalet, and a hermitage. To 
the right of this park, to the N.W. of the lake, is a Dairy constructed 
by Louis XVL, with a temple and an artificial grotto. Beyond, at the 
top of the avenue, is a Farm, where Napoleon I. kept the first merino 
sheep brought from Spain to France. To the right, between the Pare 
Anglais and the N. part of the town, lies the Great Park, which 
covers 3000 acres and contains numerous avenues of noble trees. 
— To the N. of the town extends the Forest of Rambouillet. 

At (38 M.) Epernon, an ancient town with 2370 inhab., to the 
right, an obelisk has been erected to its defenders in 1870. 

43 M. Maintenon (Hot. St. Pierre ,- de la Oare, R. 21/2-4, D. 3 1/4 fr.), 
a small town on the Eure, to the right of the railway, possesses'a 
handsome chateau of the end of the 15th cent, which was enlarged 
and restored in the 17th cent, by Fran^oise d'Aubigne' (1635-1719), 
widow of the poet Scarron, who took the title of Marquise de Main- 
tenon on her marriage to Louis XIV. in 1684. To the right, beyond 
the station, are the ruins of the huge Aqueduct begun by Louis XIV. 
to conduct the waters of the Eure to his gardens at Versailles. Up- 
wards of 30,000 men, chiefly soldiers, were employed on this work 
from 1684 to 1688, but it was then discontinued owing to the great 
mortality among the labourers. Louis XV. used part of the materials 
to construct a chateau for Mme. de Pompadour, which, however, has 
disappeared. — Branch-lines hence to Dreux (see p. 1851 and to 
Auneau (p. 284). K v j ^» 

Beyond Maintenon the train crosses the valley of the Voise by 
a lofty viaduct and ascends the valley of the Eure. 487^ M. Jouy ; 
51 M. La Villette-St-Prest. The train crosses the Eure, and the 
spires of Chartres now come into sight on the left. 

541/2 M. Chartres (Buffet, good). - Hotels. Grand Monarque, R 

R°7.ni ^H ^i/''/1--^'/|' ^ i,P'°'- ^'•^™ 1^' *^"*°- V2 fr.; DE France; 

R. from 3, B. 1, de,. 3, D. 81/2, pens, from 11. omn. 1/2 fr.; do Ddc 

DE Chartres f. from 3, omn. 1/2 fr., good; all in the Place des Epars 
(i'l. b, c, a; A, 4, 5). ^ 

Cafes. In the Place des Epars, and near tbe railway station- Cafd 
Frangais, Boul. Chasles 20. - Rest'aurants-Patisseries. BouSr^FUct 
Marceau; E. ViUette, Rue des Changes 45, near the cathedral, well spoken of 

Cabs. Per drive 3/4, per hr. 2 fr. — Steam Tramways, see p 214 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. B, 4), Rue des Changes, near the cathedral. 

Chartres, the capital of the department of Eure-et-Loir, with 
Z6,2id inhab., on the left bank of the Eure, is one of the most 
important corn-markets in France, and is noted also for its 'pates'. 
Most of the streets are narrow, steep, and tortuous. 
h.vfV'"*''^r' *^? Autricvm Of the Carnntes (whence Chartres), is said to 
have been foumled about 600 B.C., and was the centre of early Gallic 

CbaHr?, "T ^^' '•'*'* ""{ '^^ ^^"^^" °f ^'"^^«- The powerful Counts if 
Ihartres play an important part iu the history of the gradual develop- 

14* 



212 Route 30. CHARTRES. From Paris 

ment of the French monarchy. The city was several times besieged in 
the Korman, Burgundian, and religious wars. Henri IV of Navarre was 
crowned kint; of France here in 1694. Chartrcs was occupied by the 
Germans in 187U, and formed a useful point d''appui in their operations 
against the Army of the Loire. It gives its name to a duchy, held since 
1661 as an apanage of the Orlt^ans family, but now merely titular. It is 
to 'a day at Chartres' and to the inspiration of its 'minster's vast repose' 
that we owe Mr. Russell LowelFs 'CathedraF. The pilgrim must be left 
to himself to identify the 'pea-greeu inn' at which the prudent bard 'first 
ordered dinner'. Comp. also Cecil Ileadlam, 'Tbe Story of Chartres' (Lon- 
don, 1902). 

The **Cathedral of Notrb-Dame (PI. B, 3) is one of the grandest 
Gothic edifices in France; tradition avers that it is built ahove a 
grotto where the Druids celebrated the worship of a 'virgin who 
should bear a child'. The present crypt, however, dates only from 
the 11th cent., and the cathedral in its present form from the 12- 
13th cent, (consecrated in 1260). The principal tower was almost 
wholly rebuilt in 1507-14. 

The large *W. Facade, which is somewhat severe in general 
aspect, is pierced by three doorways lavishly adorned with sculp- 
tures, representing scenes in the life of Jesus Christ, with statues 
and statuettes of Prophets, the Elders of the Apocalypse, and other 
Biblical characters. Above the doors are three pointed windows, 
surmounted by a handsome rose-window, above which again runs 
an arcade with sixteen large statues of Kings of France. Over the 
arcade rises a gable, containing a figure of the Virgin between two 
angels and bearing on its apex a figure of the Saviour. The rose- 
window dates from the 18th, and the higher parts from the 13- 
14th centuries. The statues in the doorways are stiff and Byzantine 
in type, with flat faces, short arms, elongated bodies, and ungraceful 
drapery; but they are, nevertheless, a distinct advance on anything 
previously achieved, and mark an epoch in the history of art. The 
facade is flanked by two fine * Towers, rising to a height of 350 ft. 
and 375 ft. The S. tower (end of the 12th cent. ; restored in 1904) 
excels the other in purity and harmony of style, M'hile the richly 
adorned spire added to the N. tower in 1506-13 by Jehan Texier 
of Beauce is described by Fergusson ('History of Architecture') as 
the most beautifully designed spire on the continent of Europe. 

The *Sid€ Portals, which are much more elaborately decorated 
than those in the W. front, date from about 1250 and are preceded 
by porches of the 14th century. The sculptures on the N. portal 
represent scenes from the life of the Virgin, and those on the S. the 
Last Judgment. The noble style of the large statues, the wonderful 
expressiveness of the statuettes, the variety and life of the bas- 
reUefs, and the finish of the mouldings combine to range these 
portals among the most splendid examples of monumental sculp- 
ture. There are two towers flanking each of the side-portals and one 
on each side of the beginning of the apse, but none of them have 
been carried above the springing of the roof. The votive Chapelle 
Vendome, between the buttresses on the S., was begun in 1417. — 



to Rermes. CHARTRES. 30. Route. 213 

The Chapelle St. Fiat (16th cent), adjoining the chevet to the 
right IS entered Irom within the cathedral by a staircase. To the 
N of the mam portal is the PaviUon de VHorloge (16th cent.), and 
to the left of the chevet is the Bishop's Palace (17th cent.). 

The *lNTEEioB produces a no less imposine effect fhan iy^i\^*^ • 

latter is ad oioed bHeven "raoefs T^J -rt^"^ ambulatory, and the 

t^fsSP^i^'^*^^ "-^ oTd-iS;;treLr^nr,eS 

»n, ,>^Vv°' '""!.' '"'J<"ni''8 tie N. portal. It is open beforeVa S h?,, 
aft„ ha hour ftose who wisb to see it apply at "the Son dea"°ae'c 

W»..;(3«epsTlo ^andfe^Hs o"Sed."° """■'""" '° ^""^ "" 

is tit* Itr^r' "^^ *''* ^'"' •*"' '^'''"'«"^> *» *'"' S. of the cathedral, 
IS the post-offlce, m a fine 13th Cent. Home (PI. B, 4) and in the 

left^i, 2 m' .""T'i reached thence by thi secoid-i'treet o he 
lelt, IS the Maison du Saumon (PI. 2; C, 41 of the 15th rpr,t.,r^ 

of the jnedi^val fortifications of the town, 'cis Vg he Ta't itl 
and fouowmg the boulevard to the right as far as fhe first bidg 

M9 ^ r';k'"""V° *" "^"'"^ °f ^'- ''""" (PI- C, D, 5), a fine edifice 
(12-13th cent.) with good *Stained Ola,,: The apsidal chapel con! 

acT 2T 'l'^l''"''^^'i™"«^' *^"""''^' ^^ """"-l "n.osinTl5^^^^ 

fn Um ;^ '"'' "■'"• """• ''™"S'" f™"" ""> Chateau d'Ano 
the "ft]. representing the Apostles (bell for the custodian on 

r, ^"l^ i'^' ?'• ^'"'■'' 'e"'^" ''«"»« '0 the N., passing near the 
ChurcU orst Aiy„an iJ>l.C,i,ry), a building of he 13 h^l"h and 
17th centur.es. At No. 16 Rue St. Pierre is the new Mue"cle la 
t"T ^''"'"oy'l'" f open 1-4 on week-days ; adn, 7 (7) A lUt e 
to the S.W. stands the UoUi He Mile (PlI^C;, 5 , i, thclorl 



214 Route 30. CHARTRES. From Paris 

Hotel de Montescot (restored in 1014), containing the Musee Muni- 
cipal with a few good paintings and other works of art (open on Sun. 
& Thurs., 12-4, and shown on application on other days, 11-4). 

Proceeding towards the W. from the Uotel de Ville, we reach 
the expansion of the boulevards called the Place des Epars (PI. A, 5), 
In the centre of which rises a bronze statue, by Prcault, of General 
Marceau (1769-96), a native of Chartres. 

Among other ancient buildings at Chartres are the Maison du Docteur 
or de Claude Huvi (PL 4, B, 4; 16th cent.) ; the Cellier de Loens (PI. 6, B, 3; 
13th cent.), and the Church of St. Andre (PI. C, 2^ ilOS, restored ai the 
16th cent.). 

The finest part of the boulevards is the Butte des Charbonniers 
(PI. A, B, 2, 3), on the N.W. side of the town. To the right, at 
this point, are some remains of the old city-walls. 

A steam -tramway runs from Chartres to (20V2 M.) Bonneval (p. 284), 
and to (21/2 51.) Leves. Another line runs to Angerville (p. 281). 

Railway from Rouen to OrUans via Chartres, see p. 139. — A branch-line 
runs from Chartres to (18 M.) Auneau (p. 284). 

From Chartres to Saumuk, 123 M., railway in 41/4-61/4 hrs. (fares 
19 fr 30 14 fr. 95, 9 fr. T5 c). The line at first traverses the uninteresting 
plain of the Beauce and crosses the Eure. — I6V2 M. llliers, a small tow-n 
on the Loir. — 23 M. Brou (Hdtel des Trois-Maries), a small town on the 
Ozanne. with important markets and a Church of the 13th century. Branch 
to La Loupe (p. 215). — Beyond (31 M.) Arrou, the junction for Nogent-le- 
Rotrou (see p. 215) , we see the chateau of Courtalain (L5th cent.) to the 
left and cross the Yerre by a large viaduct. — 34 M. Courtalain-St-Pellerm 
(buffet) is the junction of a line to Orleans (see p. 215). The country now 
becomes more" varied. - Beyond (461/2 M.) Mondoubleau (Grand-Monarque), 
on the Oreime, with a picturesque ruined castle of the 10-15th cent., the 
train descends the valley of the Braye, crossing the stream several times. 
From (52 M.) Sargi-sur-Braye a line runs to (5O1/2 M.) .Tours (p. 29b) via 
Chdteaurenault (p. 286) and Vouvray (p. 283). From (60 M.) Bess4-sur-Braye, 
a small industrial town, a line diverges to St. Calais and Connerre (see 
p. 215). — 65 31. Le Pont-de-Braye (Hot. de la Gare) is the junction of the 
line to Vendome and Blois (p. 295), traversing the pretty valley of the Z't'tr, 
which our train also follows for some time. Ronsard, the PO^t (1024-»0), 
was born at the manor oi La Poissonniere (reVics ; visitors admitted), i'/z M. 
to the S - To the right are the chateau of La Flotte (15th cent.), two other 
chateaux, and several grottoes. — 71 M. La Chart re-sur-le-Loir, connected 
with Le Mans by a tramway (see p. 219). From (81 M.) Chdteau-du-Loxr 
(buffet; Grand-Hotel), also on the railway from Le Mans to Tours (p. 2iy), 
a line runs via La Fleche (p. 267) to Angers (p. 272-, 29 M.). We now cross 
the Loir and quit its valley, of which we obtain a fine view as we ascend. 
We then descend into another beautiful valley. — 921/2 M. Chateau-la' 
Vaimre, on the Fare, was the capital of a duchy which gave title to Mile, 
de la Valliere (1644-1710), mistress of Louis XIV. Railway from Chateau- 
renault to Port-Boulet, see p. 286. - 103 M. Noyant-M6on junction of a 
line to Angers (p. 272). — II8V2 M. Vivy , the junction of a line to La 
Fleche (p. 267j. — 123 M. Saumur (Gare d'OrUans), the principal station, 
1/2 M. from the town proper (see p. 271). 

II. From Chartres to Le Mans. 

76V2 M. Railway in 1^/4-3 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 9 fr. 35, 6 fr. 10 c). 

The first station beyond Chartres is (GI1/2 M. from Paris) 8t-Au- 
bin-St-Luperce. At (66 M.) CourviiU (Hot. de I'Ecu) the line ap- 
proaches the Eure, the course of which it now foUows, quitting the 



to Rennes. NOGENT-LE-ROTROU. 30. Route. 215 

plains of La Beauce for the pastures of Le Ferche, on which are 
reared the excellent draught-horses known as 'Percherons'. About 
51/2 iM; to the S. is the Chateau de ViUebon (15-17th cent.), in which 
Sully (see below) died in 1641. - 71 M. Pontgouin,- 77 M. La Loupe 
(Cheue-Dore), the junction of branch-lines to (24 M.J Verneuil 
few^S-^ %''^}'' ^^^ /2 M.) Brou (p. 214). 84 M. Bretoncelles. - 
'l ^- ^onde-sur-Huisne or Hume (Buffet; Hot. du Lion-d'Or) 
* ROM CoNDft TO Alencon AxND Domfront, 84' '2 M., railway in 5-5i/. h/s 
This hne at first ascends the valley of the ffnisae, traverSa hill v dis- 
trict. - 181/2 M. Mortagne (Grand Cerf; de France; des TroisMarchands) an 
iSn^^h f'-^^^l^^^nT'^ ^"^ 3800 inhab., possesses . chuS be?an tn 
1494, (mished m the 16th cent., and altered in the 19th. It is an imporVut 

fse"terowf Ve' Gn''h'°'' ^^/^^i^f ««"- -' i^- to Laigle (p' 182 , "Samers 
(see tJelow) bte. Gauburge (p. 182), etc. — 4I1/2 M. Alencon, see d 187 
Line from Surdon (Caen) to Le Mans, see pp. 186-188. - From (54 M) 
fltirThLn V'o'^r^ C«rro5;5.., with a curioa? chateau 

tL .mnlwV^n ^)^o'^^^z>^?^'^^ Staircase, portraits, and tapestry. - 
M^ven^e m IRcS fn?? V f^^-^«:/'«»"^ i« tt^e junction of I line to^(28V2 M.) 
rsee n 18 ^" 7m/ M r ^°«^«'"««' ^^^ junction for La Fertc-Mace and Br ouze 
(see p. 181j. 761/2 M. Juvigny-sous-Andaine. - 841/2 M. Domfront, see p. 188 

Our line now crosses the Huisne, the valley of which it descends 
all the way to Le Mans. 

n o}!ll^: Nogent-le-Rotrou {Buffet; Hotel du Dauphin, R. 2-3, 
D. dV2 fr.) a town with 8406 inhab., was the birthplace of Remy- 
^e^iecm the poet (1528-77), to whom a statue was erected here in 
1897. Ihe Castle of St. John, of the ll-15th cent., was once the 
property of Sully (see above and p. 427). At the Hotel Dleu is the 
handsome tomb of Sully, with marble statues of himself and his wife, 
byBoudm(1642). The church of -Sf.^/imVe dates from the 10th 13th 
* FRoi ''^^*™'- \^^'^ ^""^ St- Laurent are two 16th cent, houses: 

8J M. Chdteaudun (p. 284), and (57 M.) Patay (p. 140). ^^' ''' 

105V2 M. La Ferte-Bernard (St. Jean; Chapeau-Rouge), a small 
town to the left, with a fine church of the 15-16th cent., with 
curious galleries and elaborate sculptures. The Hotel de Ville is 
established m one of the old town-gates (15th cent.). — 111 M 
Sceaux-Boesse. — 116 M. Connerre-Beillc 
8 q fr ^''?;°^^-l^"e runs hence to (28 M.) Mamers \h6L du Cygne, R. 2-3 pens 

the 14 Ifith P^^ '°^^\^-^ ^'^^ * '•"i°«'i «astle and an abbey-church of 
nil m'} o '^«°t'i"<^s- The last is connected by a short branch-linrwin. 
(7V. M.) Bess^-sur-Braye, on the railway from Chartres to Saumur\°p' 2m 

MoZlT'^'ri HO'! t^.^o'^'^'^r- ^'y°^^ ^^^^'/-^ ^O Pont-de-Gennes- 
Montfot and (123 M.) St. Mars-la- Brier e the train passes through 
plantatious ot pines I271/2 M. Yvre-l^Eveque. The names of the^se 
of ImTJ- T^^lr oTa. ^" «^""««*i«» ^th the important battle 
the P^^, r/^^ ^P-^^^^' ^^^^^ '' commemorated by a column on 
the FLnleau d Auvour^^ above Yvre-l'Eveque. _ Our line re-crosse. 



216 Routt 40. I. K MANS. From Paris 

the Huisiie and traverses Fontlieue, connected with Lc Mans by an 
electric tramway and by the stoam-trarnway to La Chartre (i). 219). 
To the left diverges the line to Tours. 131 M. Le Mans. 

Le Mans. — Hotels. Hotel dd Dauphin (PI. cl; C, ci), dk Fkanck 
(PI. c; B, 3j, Place de la Rcpublique, R. from 3, B. IV4, dej. 3, 1). 3V2 fr.; 
t)K Paris (PI. a; B, 4), Avenue Thiers K), with lift, R. 3-5, B. 1. d<\). 8, 
D. 3V2, pens. 8V7-IOV2, oinn. 1/2 fr., new, 01; Saumon (PI. b; B, 3), Place 
de la Republlque, B. 1. (Uj. 2'/2, D. 3, pens. 9, oiun. 1/2 fr., good; du Maine 
(PI. e; B, 3), Rue des Minimes 10, R. 2, dej. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; Continental, 
opposite the rail, staticm, very fair. — Restaurants. »S'oyez, Place de la 
Republique; Buffet at the railway-station. 

Cab with one horse IV4 fr. per 'course', 1 fr. 80 c. per hr. 5 at night 
1 fr. 75 and 2 fr. 25 c. ; with two horses 1 fr. 60, 2 fr. 25 c, 2 fr., 2 fr. 50 c. 

Electric Tramways from the Place de la R6publique (PI. B, 3) to the 
atation (PI. A, B, 5), to the Rue des MaUlett (PI. D, 1), to Pontlieue (PI. D, 6), 
to tl'e Hospital (PI. A, 1), etc. ; fare 10 c, or 15 c. with 'correspondance'. — 
Steam Tramways^ see p. 219. 

Post and Telegraph Office fPl. B, C, 3), Place de la IJepublique. 

Syndicat d'Initiative, Boulevard Rene-Levasseur 7. 

Le Mans, formerly the capital of Maine, and now the chief place 
of the department of the Sarthe, the headquarters of the 4th armyj:} 
corps, and the seat of a bishop, is an ancient town with 65,467 inhab.,| 
situated on the Sarthe, chiefly on a height rising from the left bank. 
The staple commodities are grain and flax. 

Le Mans, the ancient capital of the Aulerci- Cenomani ., afterwards p 
occupied and fortified by the Romans, became under Charlemagne one ofj; 
the most important cities in the kingdom of the Franks. Taken by Wil-t/ 
liam the Conqueror in the 11th cent., it had afterwards, like the towns of 
Normandy, many vicissitudes to bear during the Anglo-French wars, an 
it is said to have undergone upwards of twenty sieges. The Vendeans 
were defeated here by General Marceau in 1793; and the victorious troops, 
in spite of the efl'orts of some of their officers, massacred many thousands 
of the unfortunate Royalists in the streets of the town, not even sparin;; 
women and children. In 1871 the Germans under Prince Frederick Charles 
defeated the Second Army of the Loire here in a 'week of battle.^ 
(.Tan. 10-I7th), effectually preventing the attempt to relieve Paris. 

Le Mans was the birthplace (in 1133) of Henry II., the first of the Plan- 
tagenet line of English kings. 

The Avenue Thiers leads from the station to the Prefecture and 
the church of Notre-Dame~de-La-Couture, in the centre of the town. 
In the Square de la Prefecture is a bronze statue, by Filleul, of 
Pierre Belon, a physician and botanist of the 16th century. 

The church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Couture (i.e. 'de cultura Dei' ; 
PI. C, 3), dating mainly from the 12th and 14th cent., has a fine AV. 
front, flanked with two unfinished towers. The *Portal, which is pre- 
ceded by a porch, is lavishly adorned with sculptures representing 
the Last Judgment (tympanum), with statues of Apostles, and statu- 
ettes of saints (on the vaulting). 

Intekioh. The nave, which is in a very primitive Gothic style, has 
no aisles and is roofed by domicnl vaulting, stilted in the same way as 
that of St. Maurice at Angers fp. 274j. It contain.s se^-eral noteworthy 
pictures (by Phil, de Ghampaigne, Restont, Van Thulden, L. Caracci, and others) ; 
and opposite the ])ulpit is a statue of the IMudonna attribated to G. Pilon. 
On the walla are tapestries of the 16th century. The choir is still earlier 



e™d-Ov,gir.^ _ fa.«iM„,;i^, .v ^^^ ,),,,"^ 






'''»'77>ii,v//.!'M 



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mtprnpr par 



\^a£ji»*r<.l)-'bfs l.Fijtatia 



to Rennes. LE MANS. 30. Route. 217 

than the nave, the enri of it being in the Romanesque style Beneath it 
ff T^'T • •'' ^ «!r'*y i3 preserved the shroud of St Bernard BtshoD 
of Le Mans in the 6th cent., made of some Oriental fabric ' ^ 

rPi ^r T ^'^i'^'-^Y'''^: ^^side the church, is the municipal Museum 
^"L''::^\ZIJ1^^.S:T ''^"•' '"^- ^^ ent^hy theiron 

GfLL^to'tSVr^S'^; T"?"°'' Egyptian antiquities ttc' ' 

Objects ot natural history, casts, antinuitips — T?nr.« o* +i.t i °i- • . 
the first gallery. From rieht to left *9fi8 i?T Room at the end, adjoining 

enamel, 2 ft. high and l7t Sl^fn ^'^\^^^^)^ a plaque of champleve 
father of HenryTl. of En'w (see d 2?6?3 f^'^'/'^V^.r^^ "' ^°j«"' 

Le Mans (d. 1673) may afso beVoricid ' S^'^-Plate of a surgeon of 

St A^lba" ?"'«"= /'■"■^ 'igl" to left) : 10. t'lcrmliM School oflhe Uth Cent 

(copy) IS" l^'lirS^tms'o'n-t^Telira'i ."SS't It '^'" ^i^^"' '" 
the Garden of Olives — 7fi ^.^1/ f},Ai ' "%; ^* "^^ ^*^<'' C^"st in 
of Vibraye; 295 iJzijov Exefn Hnl-^f^'" ^^'T'^ ^"^*]^^^t of a 'nobleman 
scape; 332.' Troyon Far'm^rf ?^i V "" '^'^'^f ^"o " ^- (Nonstable, h^nA- 

iupUerTn^sfme':^ '""A'^' «^ «* S^ba^SraS-'^.-Zo^^L^' 

of a youtS; 49/ ^'i^hilrr T <^««/^^C^5 not Fan rf^;- Eelst), Port?S 
of the Mag ,71 H^ly' Famfjv "^ SS f^*'/^- ^« Cf^«'»i'a«V««, 70. Adoration 
A magistrate •120k^/«??^^Vw ^^"0^"' ^^''t'-ait; 191. A^ rf« yardi;*, 
Sehalcken^^oHT,it-m^^^ ^t- Catharine; 312 

0/ the Wo^e^rPorVrait • ff Sthal-t? Vp° M ^ •*'"*^' ?"i*^*^*5 T8, 79. School 

including N .. 27 Zly Fami?v hv P-^ ^-^^^ '^^ ^^^^ '^^^^^^^ Pi^^t^^es, 

Dhristo,)her.--lnthTKla;sca,^.?n./ .^.^^"'^"'"e; 45. //. m,t d« ii/«, St 
1 . in tue gldsfa-cases : natural history objects, medals, and lav Jnce, 



218 Route 30. LR MANS. From Par h 

Th<". Profectvire contains al-io the I'ublic Libranj, open daily, 9-4, except 
on Sun., Wed., and holidays. It contains 51,400 primed volumes andoOtMSS. , 

The Boulevard Rene'-Levasseur leads hence to the Place de 
La Repu'iUque (PI. B, 3), in which stands a *War Monument for 
1871 (see p. 216). The statue of General Chanzy, commander of 
the Army of the Loire, is by Crauk; the fine groups of Attack and 
Defence are by Croisy. 

In this Place are the Bourse and the new Tribunal de Commerce 
and, farther on, the Palais de Juatice and the Church of the Visita- 
tion^ two 18th cent, buildings, belonging originally to a convent. — 
The Rue Gambetta, which descends from this point towards the 
Pont Gambetta. passes between the General Hospital (PI. A, B, 3), 
an edifice of the 17th cent., with a fine chapel, and the Place de 
l'Eperon{V\. B,3), where upwards of 5000 Vendeans were wounded 
or slain in 1793 (comp. p. 216). 

The Rue Dumas (adjoining the Grand-Hotel; PI. B, 3) and the 
following streets (Rue Marchande, etc) lead from the Place de la 
Re'publique to the Place des Jacobins (PI. C, 2), in which are the 
Cathedral and the Theatre, the latter constructed in 1<S42 on the site 
of a Gallo-Roman amphitheatre. The Tunnel on the W. side of the 

Place descends to the Sarthe. 

The Rue de la Juiverie leads to the left from the end of the Rue 
Dumas to the former church of St. Pierre-la-Cour (12-13th cent.), at Rue 
des Fosses-St-Pierre 6. in the crvpt of which is the Archaeological Museum 
(PI B 2: open daily, except Mon., 12-4). This contains antiquities and 
medifHval and Renaissance objects of art, including some ancienr vases, 
pottery, fayence, enamels, statues, funereal monuments, furniture, etc. 

The *Catliedral (PI. C, 1, 2), which is dedicated to St. Julian, 
the first bishop of Le Mans (3rd cent.), consists of two very distinct 
parts: the nave of the ll-12th cent., with some modifications in the 
Transitional style; and the choir and transepts rebuilt on an ampler 
scale after 1217, the one in the early-Gothic style, the other in the 
late-Gothic of the 14th (S. transept) and 15th (N. transept) centuries. 
In spite of this discrepancy, however, the Cathedral of Le Mans 
ranks among the leading churches of France, and the general effect 
is one of great nobility. The W. portal (Uth cent.) is severe and 
simple, and is unrelieved by a tower. Between two buttresses to 
the right is a stone supposed to be a menhir. On the S. side of the 
nave is a Lateral Portal in the Transition style of the 12th cent., 
preceded by the crenelated Porche du Cavalier, adorned with statues 
resembling those of the great portal of Chartres Cathedral (p. 212). 
The transept terminates at each end in a tower, of which the base^ 
is Romanesque and the upper portions of the 15-16th centuries. 
The soaring apse, with its girdle of chapels, is one of the most im- 
posing features of the exterior. 

The IvTERiOK presents the same striking contrast as the exterior, but 
each of the two parts is a line example of its own style._ The nave is 
divided into five bavs roofed with domical vaulting; the aisles consist ot 
ten bays with groined vaulting. The richly ornamented capitals deserve 
attention; and the stained-glass windows of the aisles are among the most 



toRennes. LE MANS. 30. Route. 219 

ancient known (ll-12th cent.). The transept, the vaulting of which is 
loftier than that of the nave has an open triforium and a magnificent rose- 
window (N. arm) Mled with 15th cent, stained glass. The -Choir, with its 
^?/"«w*«L"..^*ii^'*^:i '' '°/.^® purest Gothic style and is beautified by fine 
nfS .«?• .^'"^T ?^ *^^ ^^;^^*^ centuries. Among the minor features 
c/vif f fi ' ri^^ '"l®"".'^/ ^""^ *^® ^^"'^ *^f ^g^- Bouvier (d. 1854), in the 
nrSosffl fL?^ i^''\\\^' t^^"««Pt^5 t^« Renaissance tombs, in a chapel 
opposite; the tomb of Queen Berengaria of Sicily, wife of Richard Cu^ur- 
dc-L,on (13th cent.), brought to the cathedral from a neighbouring abbey 
^/}o4n -^l' *^® organ-screen, in the Renaissance style; a Holy Sepulchre 
?hV/n^.'°i. r ^"""f**' P^iv*^^ ^\^ ^'^^^^ f^^^^P^l adjoining the screen); and 
the door leading from the ambulatory to the sacristy, constructed from 

t%\s^roftel5-167h^tXts?' ''''■ '^ '^' --'''^ -^ ^- P^-- 0^ 
The Hotel du Grabatoire, a Renaissance building opposite the 
cathedral, was formerly the canons' hospital. The Grande-Rue f PI. B, 
C, 1 2) and various other streets in this quarter contain many quaint 
old houses. No. 11 Grande-Rue is named the House of Queen Beren- 
garia, because it occupies the site of a mansion said to have been 
occupied in the 13th cent, by the widow of Richard Cceur-de-Lion 
(see above). It contains a small art-museum (9-11 and 1-5- anplv 
at No. 14; fee). ' I'i' J- 

Crossing the river by the Pont Yssoir, we next reach the church 
1 ^f To^'"'"' ^' ^^- J^^i'^-d^-Pre (PI. B, 1), dating mainly from 
the 11-1 2th cent, and well illustrating the Romanesque style of that 
period. The N. aisle contains a bas-relief of the 16th cent re- 
presenting a procession. The frescoes are modern. ' 

About 7-2 M. to the E. of the Place des Jacobins is the Horti- 
cultural Garden (PI. D, 2), open on Sun. and Thurs. and on Tues 
when the band plays, and to strangers on other days on application. 

From Le Mans to Angers and to Nantes, see R.39; to Alen(on, see R. 26 
the folWW^T^^' ('Tramways de la Sarthe^) run between Le Mans and 
the following places. 1. La Chartke (p. 214), 3OV2 M., in 2^, hrs. (fares 
3 fn, 2 fr 25 c ) via Pontlieue (p. 216), Parign^-fEveque, drand-Luc7 etc - 
ImJr^r ^^'^S'^OV^M. in2./.hrs (2fr., H/. fr'.), vie. AUonZs'y'vre- 
ihfi '- n — 3- St. Denis-d^Obques, 28V2 M., in 21/2-3 hrs. (2 fr. 80 2 fr 
15 c), via Begrd, Loui, etc. - 4. Mamers (p. 215) 35V2 M and IVvvt^l' 

55\'r MfeflJ'^'^'.;" X""?^ (3fr.yor2?h?/: ankTfr.^40orTfr: 
fyin^- rel^Slfy \?the'rft In'/ rlght"^^'^' ''^"^" ^^' ^^ Ferte'-Bernard 

7 fr %"" 4 f^"" q^^^' ^!^?'.^"f.«' 6IV2 M., railway in 2V4-3 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 
At r?M/; '^' ^^^«.1^°« t'lrns to the S. and traverses the Huisne. 
At ( ) M.) Arnage we quit the valley of the Sarthe. 18 M. Mayet (Hot 

La FlSh; rn 47?- ^^^^^.^"^ ^^ ^^^ junction of a branch-line to (211/2 M.) 
La Fleche (p. 267) which passes the small town of OV-, M.) Le Lude with 

p '/uV wt nnw ' ^^'".1,* 'r ^ '*"" '''' ^^^ ^^^« ^^-^"^ Chartres to Saumur 
iVm li-' •m/x>°°^ ^'■^^^ *^6 Loir and ascend the vallev of the Eseotai^ 
^n^hfclf^^'"''^'fr'^]^^'- Ste.Barbe), a small town IV* M. to the rth ' 
f (48i/?M f ".rT/*-^°*^/"J*"?^^^"* ^^°^ (P- 286). About 2 M. t^ the W.' 
llilT'i -^ '^'; ^''}o*"e-du-Rocher lies Semblangay, with the picturesaue 
ruins of a castle of the 12-13th centuries. 531/2 M J/e^ravwUh a w?lT 
SS/rtoln"Jr' reformatory for boys. a(\o4 MTTa'^^to«r,«r". 
Jevond (%./fM ) fe.r^^^l/;:^™ ^^"' ^° T«"" ^»^ Vendome (see p. 286). 



220 Route 30. LAVAL. From Parh 

III. From Le Mans to Rennes. 

101 M. Railway in 2Vv:-4V. lirs. (fares 18 fr. 45, 12 fr. 5l), S fr. 10 c.).- 

On leaving Le Mans we cross the Sarthe and obtain a fine view 
of the town to the right. — 138 M. (from Paris) La Milesse-la-Bazoge; 
144 M. Domfront; 146 M. ConLie; 1501/2 M. Crisse. 

1537!2 M. Sill6-le-Guillaume (Hot. de Bretagne, R. 2, d^j. or D. 
27.2 fr.), a town with 2964 iiihab., possesses a ruined castle of the 
loth cent., the keep of which is 125 ft. high, and a Gothic church 
with a beautiful portal of the 13th cent, and a large crypt of the 
12th. The castle was several times taken by the English. 

A brancli-railway runs hence to (IS M.) La Hutte-Coulomhiers (p. 188), 
passing (1372 M.) Fre'snay-sur-Sarthe (Chevalier; du B on- Labour eur), a small 
town on a steep, rocky hill, with a ruined castle and a church in the 
Transitional style. Omn. in summer from Fresnay to (7 M.) St. Lionard- 
des-Bois and io St. C&neri, two picturesque places in the -Alpes Mancelles'. 

Another branch-line runs to (32V'.! M.) SabU (p. 267). 

167 72 M' Evron (Hot. du Commerce; Lemoine), a small town 
(4041 inhab.) with an interesting church (ll-14th cent.). Part of 
the rich ornamentation of the interior refers to a miracle attributed 
to some of the 'Milk of the Mailonna', brought from the Holy Land 
by a pilgrim and now preserved in the church. The timber Market 
Buildings date from the 14th century. 

From Evron an omnibus runs to Jublains (Hdt. de V Quest), a village 
8V2 M. to the N.W., occupying the site of the Gallo-Roman Noviodunum., 
the capital of the Diahlintes., of which considerable remains still exist. The 
most notable of these is the Castellum, or fort, the walls of which, strength- |j 
ened by round and square towers, are standing to a height of 10-13 ft. — , 
The omnibus goes on to (7 M.) Mayenne (p. 189). 

Another omnibus plies to Ste. Suzanne {Hdt. du Lion-d''Or, pens. 5 fr.)< 
41/2 M. to the S. of Evron, with an ancient fortified wall and a ruined 
chateau. 

17972 M. La Chapelle-Anthenaise, the junction of aline to Caen 
via Flers, Domfront, and Mayenne (see R. 27). 

187 M. Laval (Buffet). — Hotels. Hot. de l Quest, E. 27-2-4, di^j. 3, 
D. 3, pens. 9-11 fr., de Paris, R. 2V2-4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr., both in the Rue 
de la Paix; de la T£te-Noihe. Rue du Pont-de-Mayenne 91. — Cafis in 
the Rue de la Paix and Place de THotel-dc-Ville. 

Cabs 1 fr. per drive, at night 2 fr. ; with two horses 2 and 3 fr.; 
one piece of luggage 20, two pieces 30, three or more 50 c. 

Laval, the capital of the department of the Mayenne and the; 
seat of a bishop, is a town with cotton manufactories and 29,751 
inhab., situated on the Mayenne. It was taken by Talbot in 1428, 
and changed hands several times during the wars of the League and 
La Vendee. 

The Rue de la Gare, to the right of the station, leads to the Rue" 
de la Paix and the Pont Neuf, whence a fine view is obtained, od^ 
the left, of the cathedral and castle, the Pont Vieux, etc., and, on^' 
the right, of the viaduct and pleasant promenades. Beyond the{ 
bridge we reach the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, embellished with a 
bronze statue, by David d' Angers, of Ambroise Pare (1517-90), 
Styled the 'Father of French Surgery, who was born near Laval. 



J 



to Kennes. LAVAL. 30. Route. 221 

The Rue Joinville, beginning at the Place Hp ru;\t^i a trtiT 
near the Church of Noire-Dlrm 0/ J (S^rfi ^fa struftur. 0/ 
cent, containing several fine marble altars of the 17th cent u 4- 

The Cmtlt which is seen to most advantage from the auav 
between the Pont Neuf and the Pont Vieux, on the opTos te bank 
consists of two parts the 'Old' and the 'New'. Th?0^?S 
IS a sombre-looking edifice, now a prison. Visitors are admft ed 
(on application at the Prefecture, Rue des Trois-Croix) to the court 
to the interesting donjon (12th cent.), and to the chapel filth cent 1 

n'o^trpr^de^nr^ '- ''- ^--^^-<^vi^:^i 

containing ^i^pu^^L^ Horary tdfsli?^ Place da Palais, is ti.e Mnseum, 
and Sat/and 1st & 3rJ Sun of Lh Z"*^^^^^^^ ''"''"'" ^^''^"• 

-19 J^.!,f1«!f ""^ '' ^" unimposing and irregular building of the 
12th and 16th centuries. The Romanesque W. and S. portals are 
modern; but the Renaissance N. portal dates from 1575-97 The 
interior is more interesting than the exterior. The oldest part'is the 

TX ^ ""'^' ^'^ ^'"^ ^''^' ^^"^-^ ha^te'raliaVng 

Behind the cathedral stands the Porte Beucheresse, one of the 

dd town-gates, in the Gothic style, flanked by two tow'ers. - The 

Rue Marmoreau descends hence to the Place de Herce, in which are 

ta^: X^t^lfgf ^^et ^''f ^ ^^' *'^ attractive-looking Iftt Zl 
^eaux Arts (1891-96), containing a small collection of paintings 
by f landrin, Isabey, Lenepveu, Meissonier, etc. (adm. Sun Thurs 
and holidays 9-12 and 2-4 or 5). ". ^u"-, -inurs., 

The Jardin de la Perrine, behind the Musee dpc,rpnr1« tn +1,. 
nve. To the right Is the heaJtiful 12th cent Z ih oStl..^ 
Avemere,,-«nh a spire of 1534. - In the R„e du Pont-de-MaveMe 

1 railway also runs U^^eKm^TRi M) sf llJ^'^^^^^ " 
.aval to^.,e„,,, j,^^,,„,^ ^jj, o^fO M. f-/^ar.snr.Erve. - From 

2 M. Mayenne, see p isb/ ^" ~ ' ^"'''^'''^- ~ ^^^2 M. i^o«j7.rozL«. - 
fr^"*^f'''en'' I"" Chateaubkiant, 48 M., railway in 2-41/4 hrs r8 fr Rf. 

^ Segrd (p. 269). -I 48%?; ChleaulrL?^^eVS " '""'"''^ '^^'^^^^ 

In leaving Laval the train crosses the valley of the Mavenne hv 

via uctwhch affords a fine view of the town t'o the left - Beyond 

l.'ii/o M.). Le Genest we have a view to the right of the interesting 

f the Sir s dp T ^'^."!'^ T'''''' ''.T "^-gnifl^ent monuments 
the feires de Laval, dating from the 14-16th centuries. 



222 Route ,i(K V1TU6. /'Vor/4 Faris 

208V'> M Vitr6 (A/6<. des Voyayeurs, de Fntnce, both ^ood and near 
the station, R. 2-3, d^j. V/^, D. 3 fr.), an ancient town with 10,092 
inhal)., is picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Vilaine. It ' 
still retains some portions of its fortifications, a ruined castle, and 
numerous quaint medieval house?, and is in this respect one of the 
most interesting towns in France. Yitre early embraced the Pro- 
testant doctrines, and the Huguenots successfully defended them- 
selves here against the army of the League in 1589. 

On leaving the railway-station, we proceed at first to the left 
and then follow the boulevard round the old walls to the Rue Beau- 
drairie, which passes farther on between the Rue d'Emhas and the 
Rue Poterie. These streets are the most quaint and picturesque in 
the town, exhibiting a singular array of old and sombre -looking 
houses of timber or stone, with galleries, sculptured ornamentation, 
balconies, and porches of the most varied description. In some cases 
the upper stories project over the foot -pavement so as to forin 
covered arcades resembling those at Berne and not unlike the Rows 

at Chester. , . . . 

In the Place du Chatelet, to the left of the Rue Beaudrairie, is 
the Castle, dating mainly from the 14-15th cent., but restored m the 
19th. The castle belonged to the Seigneurs de la Tremoille, whose 
motto ('post tenebras spero lucem'), above the gateway, is supposed 
to refer to their attachment to the Reformed faith. 

The interesting interior is entered by the Chdtelet, in which isthe 
librarv; on the right are an Uth cent, chapel and a wing used as a prison 
to be demolished) The most important of the four towers is the Donjon 
or Tom- St. Laurent, in which is the small municipal Museum (oP^n on th^ 
1st & 3rd Sun. of each month, 1-4 or 5; at other times adm. 50 c). Mag-, 
nificent view from the top. 

The Church of Notre -Dame, in the upper part of the town, 
reached from the Place du Chatelet via the Rue Notre -Dame, is 
a handsome Gothic edifice of the 15-16th cent., with a stone spirej 
(203 ft high), recently rebuilt, above the crossing. On the outside,, 
to the right, is a fine pulpit of the 16th cent., bearing a symbol of 
the Trinity, in the form of a head with three faces. 

The chief treasure of the interior is the ^Triptych in the sacristy, 
dating from 1544 and consisting of thirty-two Limoges enamels depicting 
scenci from the New Testament. Among the other objects of interest ar 
the holy-water basins and the stained-glass windows (all modern, except 
one of the Renaissance period in the S. aisle). 

The Rue Notre-Dame skirts the Place du Marchix and ends at 
the Place des Halles, which contains several picturesque old houses, 
with lean-to roofs and outside staircases. Here also stands a round 
tower, forming a relic of the old fortifications. [ 

From the Place des Halles we may follow the Promenade du Vat, 
in order to view the town from its most picturesque side, where the 
Ramparts and a Gate are still in existence. Turning to the left we! 

regain the station. ,^ , , . , . nQj,; 

About 4 M. to the S. of Vitre, and 21/2 M. to the N. of ^/gent'^ (p. 2^ 

is the Chateau des Rochers, a mansion of the 15th cent., where fflmt 



to liennes. FOUGKKES. 30. Route. 223 

with .n interesting church of the !& cent a^Ta^uTned Chateau ^mfu*;?' 
(faref S"JS: V?r"9^r.?TTc^r ^hf tt'^^' ^' " ' ^^ ^^in V-sf/Jtl^ 

th"" ^ h°^t7^*^-^ /^•^ *^'' ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ tlV^^ 

through the picturesque valley of its affluent, the Canfac/'e -i2M r^/ 
Mlon-en-Vendelais. To the left is a small lake iqi/rM TnZ'n?. 
Zm<r^ the junction of a branch-line to Mayenne (p. 189' ' ^"^ ^'^^"'"• 

large shoe -making factories', picturef^uefy JituTted' on 'fhl "man' riv ^. 
taken by the English in 1166 an*! I'n lAAQ <.^a a ^^^^;® ^^^i town were 

containing the Theatre. We descend to fhpt-a^fi. vl fi^^" ^^"^'■® 
Pi^teric and the Rue de U FlZtltttl a^to^^^^^^^^ Z'Jf '^ 

old town-gateway {15th cent.), adjoining the wall of the casfle ifcn^o^ 
picturesque when viewed from +v>o r>.,+o--i^ j casue. It is most 

A little 'farther on Is'Te'ckZ"^ o/''^r^SJ£/oHh\75T8?hle'nt''^' 7^-"- 
ing some wood-carving of the 17th and lath r-Pnt o a .^^°*-' ^^o^^tain- 
kind of altar-piece in 'granite (fn^a cLpef off 'the's ai^s^e^ ''TZv'i/' 
commandingly situated on a rocky height dates f;om the Tp^fifT.""'?' 

from Fougeres to SI. Hilaire (p 180) "-esfored, - A branch-line runa 

town" 'l?ZM'SS'Wer?m„K''''.',l'°°^''/ Aort tu.nel below the 

''%"ror\-*"5r^»»'^"°»"^i^- 

ae^^^^'ofiSSH^feS-"^- 
Beyond Vitre our line descends the valley of the Vilaine diverg- 
ing to the left from the line to Pontorson (see above) and IZ7L 
several small stations. - 232 M. Rennes (p. 205). ^ ^ 

31. From Rennes ^Pamj to Brest 

lestfu'ra'iIi-caXth^tot^^^^^^^^^^^^ *« ^^'^ 12 fr. 40 c). 

i?mn«, see p. 206. On leaving Rennes our line diverges to the 

' v::°;;'"rth'''*"h?""^* t' ^^'^" (seep.208),?nrcit 

Qw ir ^ ^ ^^® "^^* ^""s *^i« l"ie to St. Malo Vr '^Q^ — 
.3y.2 M. Montfort-sur-Meu (Cheval Bianc; Croissanj a small a ^ 
incient town, with a tower of the 16th cent, and oSr reli s of Us 
omer fortitl cations. -- 20 M. ^/oniauJan-rfe-^rl^L fCosnie 
^ith a chateau of the 14-16th centuries. - 23 M. Latohi^lre^' 



224 Route 31. ST. P.RIKUC. From Rennei> 

Branch-line to PMrmel and Questembert, see pp. 209, 210-, in 7)inara, see 

p. 204. — A narrow-gauge line runs hence to (3GV2 M.) Lovd'ac (p. 233). 

Beyond (26 M.) QutdiUac the train crosses the Ranee. 281/2 M. 

Canines; 33V2 M. TJroons, birthplace of Du (Juesclin (1320V-1380); 

40 M. Plenee-Juaon^ with 3696 inhabitants. 

50 M. Lamballe (Hotel de France ; du Commerce)^ a town with 
4562 inhab., is picturesquely situated to the right of the railway. 
The hill on which it lies is crowned by the Church of Notre-Dame, a 
handsome and interesting edifice of the 13-15th centuries. 

This church was originally the chapel of the castle of the Comtes de 
Penthievre, which was de'^troyec] by Card. Richelieu in 1620 It was m 
besieging this castle in 1590 that La ^oue, the 'Bayard of the Huguenot^ , 
met his death. Princess Lamballe, the unhappy favourite of Marie Antoinette, 
and one of the victims of the atrocious massacres of September, 1792, was 
the widow of the last duke of Penthievre. 

The Place Cornemuse contains some quaint old houses and the 
Church of St. John (1420-65 ; tower of the 17th cent.). — The Church 
of St. Martin dates from 1084 but was altered in the 15th cent, and 
restored in the 19th. Beside it is a large Horse Breeding Establish' 
m€nf (shown from 12 to 4 or 5). r k n . t^ 

A dili<^ence (2 fr.) plies twice daily in summer from Lamballe to Le 
Val- Andre r Orand-IWel et H6i. du Verdelet ; de la Plage, etc. ; Convent Pension), 
a sea-bathing place 91/2 M. to the N., with a casino and a sandy beach 
beneath t^hec/ffs of Chateau-Tanguy, passing (1^2 M ) tbe village of Pl^nevf 
(H6t de France). - Erquy (H6t. des Bains), jy2M. to the N.E another 
bathing-vesort, is also served by a dili-ence (13 M. from Lamballe; 2V2 ir.). 
Cape FrSel (p. 17S) is 11 M. distant. - An omnibus (13/4 fr.) runs from 
Lamballe to (10 M.) Moncontour (p. 225). 

From Lamballe to Dinan, Pontvrson, Cherbourg, etc., see K. 24. 

Beyond (57 M.) Yffiniac and Langueux the sea comes into sightj 
on the right. — The train traverses a lofty embankment and viaduct-^ 
(125 ft. high). 

63 M St. Brieuc (Buffet). - Hotels. Hot. d'Angi.eteebe, Place Dui 
Guesclin R. from 3, B. 1. dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; de France, Ceoix-Blanche,! 
Rue St GniUaume 58 and 39, R. from 21/2, B. 1, dej. or D 3 fr good;' 
CROitRouGE, Rue de Gouedic 2, B. 3/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr -Cafes. Jouhaux, 
Se St Guillaume , du CMmp-de-Mars, Place du C^^-P^^-f-s ; ^. Urnvers^ 
•ni^-^T the theatre - Cabs. Per drive, 2 pers. I'A, 3-4 pers. 172lr-; per nr. 
2 fi at night (8-7) V4 and V2 fr. extra. -- Steamboats. To Le Havre, once 
a week in 14 hrs. : fares 15, 12, 9fr., cabine de luxe 20 fr.; return by. 
St Mai see pp 142, 194. To Plymouth via Jersey and Guernsey see p. xiy. - 
lost &Te?eg^raph Office, Rue de Rohan 15. - Baths, Rue de^Eohan 4. - 
iritish Vice!consul, H. W. BegUn. - Syndicat d^IniUative, Rue St. GuiUaume 26.; 
St Brieuc, a town with 23,041 inhab., the capital of the Cotes-^ 
du-Nord department and the seat of a bishop, is situated on the 
left bank of the Gouet, about 1 M. above the point where it flows 
into the Manche. The town sprang into existence round a monastery 
founded here at the end of the 5th cent, by St. Brieuc, a missionary 
from Britain. St. Brieuc contains many quaint and picturesque old 
houses, in one of which (in the Rue Fardel) .Tames II. lived for som^. 

days while plotting an invasion of England. 

Following first the Rue de la Gate, opposite the station, and thei 

the Rue du Lyc^e (to the right), we soon reach the Champ-de-Mar\ 



to Brest. GUINGAMP. 31. Route. 225 

with a War Monument for 1870-71, by Og4, a native of the town 
To the left stands the church of St. GuiUaume (13th cent.; rebuilt 
in 1854), containing two frescoes by GoueTzou. The first' turninff 
to the right in the Rue St. Guillaume leads to the Orande Promen- 
ade, with the PaLais de Justice, behind which is the Tramway 
Terminus, — In the neighbouring quarter is the modern church of 
St. Michel, in the classical style. The street opposite this church 
and the Rue Jouallan lead to the Marche' au Ble', with the Theatre 
Thence the Rue des Halles, to the right, leads to the Cathedral 
of St. Stephen, an edifice of the 13-15th and 18th cent, the two 
square towers of which lend it the appearance of a fortress It con- 
tains an organ-case of 1540 and numerous monuments many of 
which, executed by Chapu and by Oge, are erected to bishops of 
St. Brieuc. ^ 

The Hotel de Ville, adjoining the cathedral, contains a small Muse'e 
open on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4 p.m. Opposite the cathedral is the 
Prefecture which is adjoined by the Bishops Palace, dating partly 
from the Ibth century. The street passing to the left of the latter leads 
to Notre- Dame-d'Esperance or St. Pierre, another 13th cent, church 
recently rebuilt. It is resorted to by pilgrims and contains a Calvary' 
rhe cross-street to the left brings us back to the Champ-de-Mars 

Good views of the picturesque ravine of the Gouet and of the Bay of 

Inll'Z.lZlXXe!'"'^ *'' ''''''' '' ^"'' *^ *'^ ^•^•' -^*^ ^ «^"- 

The port of St. Brieuc is Le L4gu4, t M. to the N. (railway). Ahout H/o M 
arther on stands the ruined Tour de Cesson, built in 1395 to protect the 
nouth of the river, but blown up by Henri IV in 1598 - The railwav 
oes on to Sous-la-Tour, at whi h are a good beach and a ba.hinrrelor^ 
:nown as Bains de St. Laurent (Hot. des Bain^) ^ "^ ^ "^ oa-ning resort 

f«r??f.^qn^or%n''^^^''''''''^':-'2^'/^^-'°^"«^^-gau<je railway in 2-2V4hrs. 
ares 3 fr. 30, 2 fr 20 c.), starting at the Gafe de I'Ouest and na^sinrthe 
ramway-terminus (see al-ove). The Viaduc du Toupin (115 f r. high) ove? the 
alley of the Gouedic close to St. Brieuc, and the Circular tadnct of 
>ouvenant r^^^T t^he Bay ofYffiniac, are among the interesting enSeerine 

^? V /\ •^'.^'™^".*°''°.^'^^ ^300 ^"^al'- tli« parish-church of wMch 

S< J/«<A«n«'5j),s a favourite resort of Breton pilgrims who bring the^r 

attle to be touched by the reli.]uary of the saint. It contains some ad- 

1 rable stained glass of the, 16th century. The 'Pardon de St Ma?h«H^ 

I celebrated here on Whitmonday, attracting great crowds of vSrs 

S sL^;-*' %^- •' '''^ ^""T"' ^otre-Bame-du-Haut with ^L 'SaS 

"t^Tf^ ofThe^'M^on^:^g^:Xt.n^P^'^^- " ^^'^^ ''■ ''"^^'^ '^ «^^-*^^ 

From St. Bneuc to Pondvy and Aurat/, see R.32; to Quimper see P 9^ • 

. Gmngamp via Binic, see R.35. _ Omnibus daily to iXS^Jcp 22^^ 

Beyond St. Brieuc the train crosses the valley of the Gouet bv 

viaduct, 190 ft. high. - 69V2 M. Plouvara-Plerneuf. — 74 M 

hatelaudren. The village, V^ M. to the N., has a chapel containing 

'"qo l";^ J""'"*^*^ ^" *^® ^'^^^ ^^"*- ^t^ ^"^ Biblical subjects. 
82 M. Guiiigamp {Hot. de France, R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. Si/.-O fr 

Ho'.'^l^^"'''' ^^- ^^""^ ^' ^' 3V2fr.), a town on the Trieux with 
i ^r^v ' V"^^^ ^^' ^*' ^^"'^^ ^^ Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours 
4-lbth cent.}, one of the chief pilgrim-resorts in Brittany. The 
Baedeker's Korthem France. 5th Edit. I5 



226 Route 31. MORLAIX. From Kennes 

interesting 'Pardon takes place on the Sat. before the first Sun. in 
July. The venerated figure of the Madonna is in a 14th cent, porch. 
(restored 1854) to the left of the nave ; the statues of the apostle? 

should be noticed also. 

The interior of the church, which has doulile aisles, is Gothic on the 
N. aide, Renaissance on the S. side. The curious beads and arms pro- 
jecting from the piers heneath the central tower should he observed. The 
most remarkable tombs are those of Marshal Holland de Coetguerheden 
(14th cent.) and Bishop Morel (d. 1401). 

Quaint old houses may be seen in the main street and in the 
spacious Place de la Pompe. At the entrance to the latter is a small 
leaden Fountain of 1588 (restored iu 1743). — At the end of the 
Promenade du Vally are the scanty ruins of a castle (15th cent.). j 

The Gothic chapel at Graces, a village IV2 M. to the W., dates from; 
1507-21 and contains some noteworthy sculptures. 

From Guingamp to Paimpol, Tr6guier, and Lannion, see pp. 238-240; 
to Carhaix, etc., see pp. 236, 237; to St. Brieuc by the narrow-gauge rail- 
way, see p. 237. 

The railway skirts Guingamp, affording a pretty view of the en- 
virons. 91 M. Belle-Isle-Begard (Hot. Le Troadec). — 98 M. Plouaret 
(Hot. Rocher, unpretending but good), 1/2 M. to the right, has a 

16th cent, church. 

From Plouaret to Lannion., Perros-Ouirec, etc., see pp. 240, 241. 

The railway traverses an undulating country, and beyond two 
short tunnels reaches (103 M.) Plounerin. 

About 2V2M. to the S.E, lies the Chapel of Keramenac'h, a curious J 
structure of the 15th century. — A diligence plies from Ploune'rin to.C^Va M..i 
Plestin-les-Greves (Grandf Maison; des Vot/ageurs) ., a town with 39i% 
inhab. and sea-baths IV4 M. farther on, on the fine beach at St. Efflad 
(Hot, du Heron). — About 41/2 M. to the N. of Plestin is Locquirec {HQt\ 
des Bains, R. 1-2, D. 2V2 fr.), another resort of the same kind, on a rocky 
peninsula. St. Michel-en- Gr^ve, see p. 241; St. Jean-du-Doigl, p. 244. t 

To the left of the railway, farther on, lies the village of PlouSgat- 
Moysan, near which is the rude chapel of St. Laurent- du-Pouldour.^ i 
frequented pilgrim-resort on the night of Aug. 9-lOth, when manj 
curious superstitious rites are performed. 

After making the circuit of the churchyard on their knees, the pilgrim 
climb into a kind of furnace beneath the altar, kissing the stone. The; 
then rub their hands and faces on the feet of the saint's statue, and finall; 
plunge into a fountain beside the church, as a cure for or preservative againfl 
rheumatism. This last ceremony may be performed by deputy. The womei 
bathe at daybreak , after the men. At midnight the men assemble in 1 
neighbouring field, where various competitions are held in honour of th 
parish, followed by copious libations for drunkenness is one of the vice 
that leaven the otherwise excellent character of the Breton. 

Farther on the Monts d' Arre'e (p. 244) are seen on the left, and w k 
cross the Douron by a viaduct, PO ft. in height. 112 M. Plouigneav^^ 
We cross the lofty Viaduct of Morlaix (see p. 227). 

118 M. Morlaix (buvette). — Hotels. Hot. de l^Edbope, E. 3-6, d^. 
or D. 31/2, omn. a/* fr-> ^^^^ spoken of; Bozellec, at the station, R. 2-27; 
D. 21/2, pens. 7fr. ; Bkanellec; dd Commekce; de la Poste. — Cafidel 
Terrasse, Place Thiers. — Post & Telegraph. Office, Rue de Brest 15. — Stearic 
boat to Le Havre every Wed. (comp. p. 142). i'l 



I 



1 



to Brest. ST. THEGONNEC. 31. Route. 227 

Morlaix, a town with 15,984 inhab., is picturesquely situated ou a 
tidal river, about 4 M. from the English Channel. The Rue Gambetta 
describes a considerable curve in descending from the station • a 
flight of steps to the left, near the church of St. Martin (18th cent ) 
offers a shorter route for pedestrians. At the end is the Hotel de Ville 
between the Place Emile-Souvestre and the Place Thiers, both of 
which are situated above vaulted channels at the confluence of the 
Jarlot and Queffleut, which here unite to form the Riviere de Morlaix 
Between the Place Thiers and the Place Cornic is the '^Viaduct 
310 yds long and 190 ft. high, with a bridge for foot-passengers 
below the railway In the latter Place is a bronze bust of Comic- 
Duchene (1731-1809), a famous privateer of Morlaix. 

The Harbour is formed by the Riviere de Morlaix. Morlaix 
carries on an active trade with the N. of Europe in grain, oil-seeds 
vegetables, butter, honey, wax, leather, horses, etc. To the left of 
the wet dock is a Tobacco Manufactory. 

On the quay to the right of the same dock is the Fontaine des Analais 
marking the spot where 600 Englishmen were surprised asTeep and slain 
after an attack on Morlaix by Henry VIII. (1522). 

A^J^^. cl^ui-ch Of St.Melaine, near the Place Thiers, dates from 
1550, Its tower from 1574. The carvings on the font, organ-case, and 
vaulting should be noticed. The quaint old houses in the Rue St 
Melaine, and especially the Grande-Rue (No. 14 with a fine carved 
staircase ; fee) and the Rue du Mur (Maison de la Reine Anne, No 33 • 
10 c.) should be inspected. — Farther on is St. Mathieu (16th cent.)' 
wath a massive tower of 1548. 

In the Place des Jacobins, on the other side of the Jarlot, is an 
)ld convent-church (with two fine windows) now containing the Musee 
Sun. and Thurs., 1-4, free; other days 25c.), which includes paint- 
ngs by Delacroix, Fragonard , Troyon, and Diaz. — The quaint 
lostume of the peasants is seen at Morlaix to advantage on market- 
lays (Sat.). 

.a.-.^Tt",?erpt 24215.'^^"''"'^'^'^ and i^o.c.^, S, Jean-au-Boigt^ Car- 

An interesting excursion (carr. 12-15 fr.; diligence every morninc 

u K^nn?' "^f^ ^':?"' ^"^'^^'^ *« ^^*/«^) ^«^««^''^ (Grand-HotT; Hot! 
uKelenn) where there is a good beach. Visitors provided with a 

War:'fo;['builVin "i^AVy. "° f-Pedition to the i^f.^r.)Cmeau du 
Uo?^'T/Jn« ^"'^* ^V^e .16th century. - From Morlaix we may visit 
lao St. Thigonnec and Gmmiliau (carr. 12 fr.), see below. 

^ 1231/2 M Pleyber- Christ. — 127 M. St. Thegonnec (Hotel du 

'S'"Vy.^ il \'r^ ^"*'''*' ^' ^'/2, pens. 6 fr.). The town 
J20b inhab ), 13/4 M. to the N. (omn. 1 1/2 fr.), has a handsome 17th 
ent. Church, with good wood-carvings. In the churchyard are a 
urious '^^iumphal Arch (1587), an Ossuary (1581) containing a 
roly Sepulchre of 1^02, and a ^Calvary' (1610). — The line now 
rosses the Penze by a viaduct 100 ft. high. 130 M. Quimiliau (Hot. 
es Voyageurs, pens. 5 fr.) contains one of the most curious 'Cal- 
anes m l?rittany adorned with statues and statuettes (1581). Its 

15* 



228 Route :il. LANDKllNKAU. From Rcnnts 

church, likft that of Lampaul, 2 M. to the left of the railway, dates 
from the ITth cent., with earlier features. 

134 M. Landivisiau (Hot. du Commerce, II. i^/2-% dcj. 21/2 fr., 
good) is a small industrial town (4385 inhab.), IV4 M. to the N. of 
the railway (omn. 40 c). Its interesting church, in the Flam- 
boyant style, has a fine S, portal of 1652. 

About 3V2 M to tlie N.W. lies Bodilis, with a tasteful Renaissance 
church, and 4V2 M farther on, to the left of the road, are the interesting 
ruins of the Chdteau of Kerjean (I6th cent.). — About 5 M. to the N.E. is 
Lambader, with a pilgrimage -chapel nf the 14th cent, containing a fine 
rood-loft of 1481. Farther on are (V'jM.) Flouvorn (3015 inhab.) and (IV2M.) 
the Chdteau of Kiruzori (ITth cent.). 

We now descend the valley of the Eiorn. — 140 M. La Roche, 
to the left,has a fine church of 1559, with a remarkable tower of 1575. 
Near the station is a ruined castle, destroyed in the 15th century. 

A visit may be paid to the handsome Church of St. Salomon (15-16th cent.) 
at La Martyre, a village 2V2 M. to the S.E., with a noted horse-fair in July. 

14372 M. Landerneau (Buffet; Hotel de I'Univers, R. from 21/21 
D. 3, pens. 71/2 fr-, goo^; Raould), the junction of the Nantes line 
(R. 361, is a cloth-manufacturing town with 7737 inhabitants. It 
contains many quaint houses and a mediaeval bridge across the 
Elorn. The church of St. Thomas de Cantorbery dates from the 
16-17th cent.; the church of St. Huardon, rebuilt in 1860, has a 

fine tower of 15^^0. , ■ am 4^, ^ 

From Landerneau to Ekignogan , l'^V2 M. , railway in 1^2-1=^/4 hr. 
(fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 55 c). - 2V2 M. PlouMern; i^h M. THmaouizan; 8 M. 
Ploudanid (3094 inhab.). - 10 M. Le Folgpe^t (another ftation see p. 232) 
is noted for the pil'^rimage, on Sei)t. 8th, to the tomb of Salaun 1 
Folgoet Cfou du bJisl 'iL'curious Church of H19 -has two fine lateral- 
portals and possesses a handsome rood-loft. Behind the choir is the 
fouSaL of the Folgoet, with a statue of the Madonna. - IOV2 M I-esneven 
(H61. de France: des Troi^-Piliers), a town with 337o inhab has important 
horse-fairs. Line to Plabennec (B-est), see p 232. -,1^^2 51. Plomder 
(281.5 inhab.). Line to St. Pol-de-Leon, see p. 232. - 15V2 M. Goulven has 
a fine church-tower of the 15th century. Me<ralithic naonuments abound 
in the bleak environs. - ITVz ^L Plouneour-Trez (2957 inhab.). - IH^^ M 
Brignogan (Hdt. des Bains-deMer ; des Baigneurs) has a fine sandy beach 
dotted with erratic blocks, bat the tide recedes to a g;eat ^J^^^^^; , ^^^ 
^Men-Marz', a menhir 30 ft. hiuh, is about V2 M. to the N.W.; and the 
rocky point of Nis Vran ('crowds nest") is l^/i M. to the :N.Ji. 

The railway continues to follow the valley of the Elorn and 
traverses a forest. To the left is the Anse de Kerhuon, a small bay 
crossed by a lofty viaduct and containing the chief timber depot of 
the French navy. — 150 M. Kerhuon. 

A ferry (10 c.) here crosses the Klorn to Le Passage, whence a road 
ascends to (IV* M.) Plougastel (H6t. des Voyageur^; d'Arvor) ji. village 
noted for the quaint costumes of its inhabitants, and for the 'Pardon 
St .John , on June 24th. The cemetery contains a curious naonumentai 
"Calvary of 1602-4, embellished with numerous statuettes and reliefs, barge 
quantities of strawberries are grown in the neighb )urhood. — OmniDu£ 
to (7V2 M.) Daoulas (p. 245), fare 1 fr. 

1521/2 M. Le Rody also is situated on a creek. About this poini 
begin the Roads of Brest, the shores of which are well wooded anc 
picturesque. The train traverses a long cutting. 



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">^""- BREST- 31.Boute. 229 

rPJ l^^\^''p?'-~,"f"i"'"''i'/"" i° """"")• Hotel CONTIKEHT.L 

Of, i.|3 Vor.oK.H, (PI. bi D.V'S^, BaedTsiai'lTk/rL- s"/" 1"^./? 
d(=j. d, D. 3V2, pena. from 9, omn. 1/2 fr.: Gk -Hot Mnnp-»v^ r^i :? t^' 
2), Rue Louis-Paateur 1, R. from 21/2 B 1 de^i" 2 A iS T^f ^ f ' ?' 
omn. 1/0 fr • df Franpp rPi ^. t» ^\ ^i ' aej. ^j'/z, !>. d, pens, from 9, 
R 1 nV-i 91'/ "^*^^^^^ (PI- ej P, ^), Rue de la Mairie 1, R. from 2'/.2 
B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pena. from S, omn. 1/2 fr ' ' 

?w;^/t' ^ ^'"•' P/^^"^« IV2, per hr. 2 fr. ; 3-4 pera., 2 & 21/2 fr. 

continuation to' Le 'confiuet/ se'e'V^l'^'^'Srom Ke2T ^t' TTU 
LambjlzeUec icomp. PJ. C, 1) via the Quai du C .SmercT the Rue de a 

per aeciion, 15 c. with correspondance ^ ''• ^ ^" ^- 

tussle Aw -^^ ^"' ^" ^''^^^""^ (20 <^ 10 f-)- - To PlJmoutkTLon. 
p^l* T«l«g'^aph Office (PI. D, 3), Place du Champ-de-Bataille. 

(PI. tsT ^:^eSz^''''- ''■ - ^- ^-^^ - -^ C.L j;yL... 

Cons^utrA/e^C'rSJ^^'pt^im^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^- " ^-rican 

11 a m!r'' ^'•''^^*'««' ^^"^'^^ (PI- I), 3), Rue d^Aiguillon 4 (service at 

.n/rf ' .^ *^^ VV*^ ^,^'^9^ i"^a^M the Chief naval port of France, 
and a tortress of the first class, is situated in the department of 
/emsfere the westernmost part of France, to the N. of the Roads of 
tirest. 1 hough It possesses also a commercial harbour its im- 

piraiiyX" hLr;^:f^h7rt::: "^"' "^™" • ^-^ "^ "'^-^ ^^ 

ullv in 151? Rrp?f H^^ f v' .^°.^ ^^^'"'^ Howard attacked it unauccesa- 
bout^fi.S R?l V ^'^J'''^ t)egin to be a naval port of importance until 
orHt p5 fl' ^'^^^^^^^ began the extenaive harbour-works, and Vauban 

nd Dl'tch fle'e't^in 694 '"t "?'' ^f-'^ ^ ^°^'^^^«« ^**^«k ^^ tt^« Eng^^ 
avebeenconvevPdtnft' ^"^^rmation of this expedition is believed to 
rowe defeated ?heF?.ll fi^'l^^ court by Jacobite spies. In 1794 Admiral 
uwe aeieated the French fleet, under Villaret and Joyeuse, off Brest 



230 Route 31. BREST. Castle. 

The town is built on two rocky bills on the banks of the Penfeld, 
which forms the naval harbour, the chief part being on the left bank. 
Three roads lead to the town from the Station (PI. E, 3J, which lies 
outside the fortifications. That straight in front conducts us in a few 
minutes to the Place du Champ -de- BataiUe{V\. C, D, 3), via the Porte 
Foy, the Rue Voltaire (left), and the Rue de la Rampe or Rue 
d'Aiguillon (right). The two last streets lead on beyond the Place 
to the Rue de Siam (PI. C, 3), the principal street in Brest, while in 
the other direction they end at the Cours Dajot (see below). — The 
Avenue de la Gare, to the right from the station, leads to the upper 
end of the Rue de Siam, which descends thence to the naval har- 
l)Our. — The street to the left from the station passes between the 
commercial harbour and the Cours Dajot to the Place du Chateau. 
The Commercial Harbour (PL E, 3), of recent construction, in- 
cludes at present five basins, with a total area of 100 acres, with two 
moles, and a breakwater 1/2 M. long. The Cours Dajot (PI. C, D, 4) 
is a handsome promenade laid out in 1769, and embellished with 
statues of Neptune and Abundance, by Coyzevox. It communicates 
with the commercial harbour by flights of steps. The *View of the 
roadstead thence is particularly fine. 

Brest Roads, in wliich several men-of-war are usually anchored, are 
formed of an irregular bay, 14 M. long and 7 M. wide, almost landlocked 
by a peninsula, whicb leaves free only a single channel on the JS., called 
the GouleL l-'i M. broad and 3 M. long. The entrance is thus somewhat 
difficult, but the Goulet once passed, ships find themselves in perhaps the 
largest and safest roadstead of Europe, in which 4U0 men-of-war can ride 
at anchor at one time. The roads are defended by powerful batteries, 
for the most part on the level of the water, and commanded themselves 
by the guns of the vast system of fortifications which guard the harbour 
and town. The peninsula of Plougastel (p. 228) divides the roadstead into 
two main parts, tVom which various smaller bays ramify. The part next 
the town is ciUed the Bras de Landerneau, into which the Elorn or Lan- 
derneau falls ; the other is the Bras de Chdteaulin (p. 245), which receives 
the Chateaulin or Aulne. 

At the W. end of the Cours Dajot, on a rock overlooking the 
harbour, rises the Castle (PI. C, 4j, an important military work, 
modified by Vauban from a construction of the 13th century. Visitorj 
are admitted on application at the entrance (fee), but there ii 
nothing of great interest in the interior. The *View from the Toui 
de Brest, on the side next the harbour, is, however, very fine. In- 
cluding the donjon, the castle has eight towers, the original conica 
roofs of which were replaced by Vauban with platforms, on whicl 
cannon were mounted. Various cells and dungeons are showi 
to the visitor, most of them with their special tale of horror O: 
suffering. ! 

The *Naval Harboub. {Port Militaire; PI. B, 4, 3, 2) is a sor,; 
of canal, 3 M. long, averaging 100 yds. in breadth, and from 30 .t^| 
40 ft. deep , excavated in great part from the living rock, at thj 
mouth of a small stream called the Penfeld. ^ 

The *Sv)ing Bridge (Pont Tournant; PI. B, 4), at the end of th 



Excursions. BREST. 31. Route. 231 

Rue de Siam (p. 230), constnicted in 1861 to connect Brest with 
Recouvrance, is one of the largest of the kind in existence. It is 
128 yds. long, with an average height of about 70 ft. The two iron 
wings of which it is composed turn upon tower-shaped piers ; four 
men can open or shut the bridge in 10 minutes. The visitor will 
hardly fail to be struck with the combined boldness and lightness 
of this remarkable structure. A bridge-of-boats for foot-passengers 
crosses the harbour below the swing - bridge. — The best general 
survey of the naval port is obtained from the swing-bridge, though 
as the canal forms a series of curves, concealed by the rising banks, 
nothing like the whole of it can be seen from any one point. 

The animation and variety of the port, with the immense magazines 
workshops barracks, etc., lining it on both sides, are more easily imagined 
than described No one at all interested in naval matters should fail to 
endeavour to obtain permission to inspect the arsenal, which employs 
between 8000 and 9000 workmen. Permits are issued from 9 to 11 a m 
at the Majonte-Generale, Rue Louis-Pasteur 79; foreigners should present 
a passport with the vise of their consul. 

The town offers few other points of interest besides those al- 
^®^^pJS^"*^^"^*^- "^^^ Church of St. Louis (PL C, 2), though founded 
in 1688, has only recently been finished. 

* ^/c*K^* ^.-^x"® Duquesne (PI. C, 2) is the Chapelle St. Joseph, containing 
two Ibth cent, tombstones, one of which was discovered in 1898 under the 
tloor of the church of St. Louis. In a gallery at the end is a small museum. 

Near the upper end of the harbour, on the right bank, is the Etablisse- 
tneni aes Fupilles de la Marine, where orphans are received at the age of 
seven to be trained as sailors. At thirteen they enter the Ecole des Mousses 
(ship-boys) on board a vessel lying in the roads, from which they are 
drafted into the navy, or pass at the age of sixteen to the Ecole des Novices, 
on board another ship for farther training. The 'Borda\ also anchored 
in the roads, contains the Naval School. 

The Musee (PI. C, 3), in the Place Sadi-Carnot, is open free on 
Sun. & Thurs., 11-4, and to strangers on other days also. It con- 
tains a small collection of paintings, including works by Van Goyen, 
Coypel, and Daubigny, and the public Xifirarj/. The Botanic Garden 
(PI. C, 2), beyond the Quartier de la Marine, is open in summer, 
on Thurs., 2-3. It includes a museum of natural history. Near it 
is the large Naval Hospital, with 1200 beds. 

ExcDRsiONS. Various pleasant excursions may be made in the roads and 
environs of Brest by means of steamers and public conveyances. Small steam 
launches may also be had for hire. — Besides Plougastel (see p. 228) we 
may mention the Chapel of St. Ann near (872 M.) Portzic, which is reached 
belo^wf^ ^''^^'^"^ ^^^^ ^^^''^ *^^ '^^^^^ ^^ ^'^ ^*' Pierre-Quilbignon (see 

No ^7n"9Mf'f^ «? ^^ CoNQOET CPotnie de St. Mathieu), 131/2 M., tramway 
fio. 1 (p. 22y) to St. Pierre-Quilbignon and thence to Le Conquet (hourly 

(10^943 mhab.) To St. Ann's Chapel, see above. - To the left, about 
yM. trom Brest, lies the Anse de Bertheaume (two small hotels). — I8V2 M 
w^th?l"!.-^^?- '^^ Commerce; de Bretagne; Ste. Barbe), a small port 
with a bathing-beach, IV2 M. distant. From Le Conquet a ferry crosses 
!h! ^ I '° .'^® Pe"t«sttto of Kermorvan. - The Pointe de St Mathieu, 
S.o ♦; ^v*'u!^'*y of Finistere, lies 21/2 M. from Le Conquet by the coast. 
^^%,^^^ }^^^}}ons& is a ruined Abbey Church (12-14th cent.). Fine view 
the He dOuessant, a small islet inhabited by nshermen, lies about 



232 Route 31. BREST. 

U M. off the coast, and is reached by steamers plying from Le Conquet in 
3-3V2 brs. It gives name to the indecisive battle of Ushant^ fought in 1788 
between the English fleet under Keppel and the French under D'Orvilliers. 
Between this island and the Isle de Moleiie, to the S.E., are the Pierres 
Vertes^ on which the English liner 'Drummond Castle' was lost, with 
300 lives, in June, 1896. 

FuoM Bkkst to Mokgat. Steamer Ql^-^/tfr.) from the commercial 
harbour twice daily (thrice at the height of summer) to (3/4 hr.j Le Fret, 
and omnibus ihence to Morgat in 1 hr. (1 Ir.). The steamer traverses 
Brest Roads from N. to S. , passing ihe Pointe de V Arjnorique <in the left, 
and the Poitite des Espagnols on the right. Le Fret is of no interest (sailing- 
boat to Le Passage, lO fr.). — The omnibus passes (S'/j M.) Crozon (Hdt. 
du Commerce), whence diligence- ply u> Chdteauliu (see p. 2i6) and to 
Caniaret (see below). — 41/2 ■>! Morgat (' Grand-Hdlel de Morgat, K,. from 3, 
D. 3V2, pens, from 7 fr. ; H6t. de la Plage, R. from 3, pens, from 9 fr. ; 
Hervi, K. from 2, pens. 6-71/2 fr.), a bathing- resort on the peninsula of 
Croz-on, with interesting cliff caverns. Boat to visit the six chief caverns, 
1-3 pers. 4 fr. — Numerous other excursions may be made by carriage from 
Morgat : to the Cap de la Chevre (6 M.), Poinle de Dinant (41/2 M.). to Camaret 
(Hot. de Fri.nce; de la Marine), 71/2 M. to the N.W., etc. Steamer to Donar- 
nenez (p. 247) in 3/4 br. (2 fr.), twice daily in summer (except Frid.). 

From Bkest to Douaknenez (p. 247), steamer thrice a week in summer 
(in 3 hrs.), returning ne>;t day (single fare 5 or 3 fr.). 

From Brest to Lanu£vennec, by special steamer (1 fr.) on Sun. in 
summer and by the Chateaulin steamer (p. 246) twice weekly. At Landi- 
vennec (Hot. Le Stum; Salaun), at the mouth of the Chateaulin, is a ruined 
Abbey of the 9 11th cent, and a 16th cent, church. 

From Brest to Poktsall, 22 M., narrow -^auge railway in I74 br. 
(fares 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 80 c), starting from the Gare des Chemins de Fer Diparte- 
mentaux (PI. C, 3). - 372 M. Lambizellec (19,Hl6 inhab.), an industrial 
suburb of Brest. At Le Rvfa, beyond a viaduct and a large brewery, the 
line to L'Aber-wrach (see below) diverges to the right. — 4'/2 M. BoUars; 
1^/2 M. Guilers. - From (IOV2 M.) Si. lienan (Hot. du Ccmmerce) an omni- 
bus plies to the prettily biiuated little harbour of Lanildut (6 M. ; hotel). 
iB^/2 M. Lanrivoari has 'pardons' on the 4ih Sun. in Sept. and the 3rd Sun. 
in Oct., remarkable for the superstitious beliefs and ceremonies connected 
with its ancient cemetery. — 17 V2 M. Plourin is another pil-rim- resort. 
About 41/2 M. to the W. (omn. ; 60 c.) -s Argenton (hotel), a lishing-village 
with a bathing beach. — 20 M. Ploudalmezeau (Bretagne; Grand" Maison), 
a village with 3465 inhabitants. — 2l M. Triompan has a good beach. — 
22 M. Portsall, where the rock-bound coast is exposed to the full lury of 
the sea, is a summer-resort with a golf-course. o qa 

From Brest to L'Aber-wrach, 22V? M., railway in 13/4 hr. (2 fr, 80, 
1 fr. bb c). — To Le Rufa, see above. — 71/2 M. Qouesnou, wi'h a 'pardon' on 
Ascension Day. — 11 M. Plabennec (3^36 inhab.). 'lo St. Pol-de-L^on, see 
below. 14 M. Plouvien (2624 inhab.). — 18'/2 M. Lannilis (H6t. Lagadec) 
lies about IV4 M. from the remarkable estuary ol the Aber-Benoit, on the 
N. — 19 M. Le Cosquer; 21 M. Landida. — 22^/2 M. L'Aber-wrach {Hdt. 
Bellevue, pens. 5 fr.), a small fishing hamlet, is situated on the estuary 
of the Aber-wrach opposite Plovguerneau (5S24 inhab.). The bay to the 
W., clo-ed by the Pointe du Libenter. offers o portunities for bathing. 
The He Vierge, to the N.K,, is marked by a lolty lighthouse. 

From Brest to St. Pol de-Leon, 4OV2 M., railway in BVz-^V* brs. (5 fr., 
3 fr. 35 c). To (U M.) Plabennec, see above. — 1^ M. Le Folgoet, nearer 
the villao-e than the other s'ation (p. 2'ii). — 19 M. Lesneven (p. 22S); 
221/2 M. Plouider (p. 228) ; 3IV2 M. Plouescat, II/4 M. from the sea. — 40V2 M, 
St. Pol-de-Lion, see p. 242. 



233 
32. From St. Brieuc to Pontivy and Auray. 

79 M in 37,-6 hrs Chemin de Fer de lOuest as far as r45 M 1 

thrn!7'/^'°*'\^*° ^^^-^ :^^"^y ^y *^« Ligne d'Orleans. There is no 
through train. Fares about 14 fr. 40, 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 25 c. 

-5<. 5ncMc, see p. 224. Our line diverges to the left from that 
to Brest. - 5 M. St. Julien, 1 1/4 M. to the N.E. of which is the Camp 

alTS"" ^""P ^^^ ^^®"^' brulees'3, an ancient vitrified fort 
— 6 M. Plaintel, with 2539 inhabitants. 

OQvift^-^' J""'^.*^" (^^^^- ^" Commerce; de la Grand' MaisonJ, with 
2y4« inhab., picturesquely situated on the Gouet and near a Pond 
IS noted for its linen cloth ('toiles de Bretaffne') The Chateau 
was built in the 17-18th cenl (no adm.). Th'e modern churtTf 
Notre-Dame possesses part of the 'Virgin's Girdle', brought from 
Jerusalem m 1248 and now preserved in a golden reliquary. Behind 
the church is an old Town Gate (15th cent.) 

(l0^h'M''.^T!r^Vj.Z Hh'""^ to (251/2 M.; 5 fr.) Rostrenen fp. 235) vi^ 
A- J' ; 'mu ' Corlap, the commercial centre of this horse-brppdino- 
district. The ancient castle of Corlay was rebuilt in the 15th century ^ 

Beyond (131/2 M. ) Le Pas we pass the Forest of Lorges and 
^ri zf, "e^t station, the Chateau of Lorges (to the left). - 
^^y2M. Ploeuc-lUermitage. P^oeuc ^4706 inhab.) lies 33/. M to 

1%' ~ ^^nkf' ^'-''^ ^ ^- '' '''' W- °f *^^ ^^il-ay , has a ruined 
chateau. — 261/3 M. La Motte (2648 inhab.). 

301/2 M.Loudeac (Hot. de France), wjth 5746 inhab., is noted 

79« Ti!' 1 "^^''"^^«*'^[^^- The church of St. Nicholas dates from 
l(Zb. Ihe large forest has an area of 6670 acres 

see p." 224!^'''''^''' *' ^'"'''^"''^ ^ndChdteanlin, see pp. 235, 236 ; to La BroUnilre, 

Bres't'-iK^^.rr;;n]'^ ^^^'^ ^^' *'^ ^^^^^ ^^°- ^-*- *^ 

441/2 M. Pontivy (Hot. Grosset, R. 2-21/2, dei. or D. 2i/o-3 
pens_8i/2 omn l/2fr.; de France], a town^ with'9506 h;ha/f on 
..tPrv? /I' i above-mentioned canal, grew up round a mon- 
astery said to have been founded in the 7th cent., by St. Ivy a 
nonk of Lmdisfarne. In 1805 Napoleon erected a n^w town here 
n order to overawe the district, which lay in the heart of the most 
£ 'T" ;/^""-y' ^"d changed the name of the place to 
^apoUonville On our way from the station we pass through this 

7i^xZ\T''l^ "'''' t^" '''''''' ^''^ sub-prefectur'e, the 
.PI M '' *?\P«^*-«ffi«^ and the court of justice are all in 
tie Place Nationale here. 

Jn^^^ ^1*'^ ^"^ Martray, in the old town, contains a tasteful stone 

rbeT/-'T''''^"//^'°^ ^^^^- O^herpi^turesque old houses 
lay be seen in the neighbouring Rue du Fil and Rue du Pont 

hich was formerly a stronghold of the Rohan family and stil 



234 Route .32. GUli:MfiNi^:-SUR-SCORFF. 

belongs to the duke of that name. Two fine towers of the original 
lour are still standing. 

The Rue de I'Eglise, beginning at the Place du Martray, leads 
past an old wooden Market and an 18th cent. Chapel to the Church 
of Notre- Darne-de-la-Joie^ which dates from the 15th cent, and has 
a massive tower with a modern spire. In the interior we notice the 
monumental high-altar, the old wooden statues of saints, by the 
pillars of the nave, and the recumbent statues in niches. 

In the adjoining square rises the Monument de la Federation 
Bretonne- Angevine, commemorating the agreement concluded by 
the deputies of Brittany in 1790; it consists of a column with an 
allegorical statue, by Goff and Chavalliaud (1894). — A few steps 
bring us to the bank of the Blavet, on the other side of which is the 
Hospital and behind it an old town-gate. Near a bridge we again 
reach the Place Nationale. 

Fi-nm Pontivy to Moulin-Gilet, on tlie line from Ploermel to Plouay, 

see p- 209. ., • n u - 

Fbom Pontivt to Meslan, 3OV2 M., narrow-gauge railway in i hrs. 
(3 fr 80, 2 fr. 50 c.)- The railway first ascends the pretty valley of the 
Blavet — 2V2 M. Stival, with the 16th cent. Chapel of St. Miriadec (good 
stained glass). 71/2 M. CUguirec (3633 inhab.), 1V« M. to the N. - I'M. 
Guemene-sur-ScorfF (Hdt. Moderne, R. from 2, dej. 2i|2, D. 3, pens. 0-b tr. ; 
de Bretagne; des Voyageurs) is an old place with 2027 inhab. and the ruins 
of a 15th cent. Chateau. It is the birthplace of Bi$ion (see p. 249). — 
21 V2 M. Ligml. — About IV4 M. to the S. of (25 M.) -S^^ Caraciec-^ernoj- 
cleden is Kernascleden, with the Church of Notre-Dame (1459). — ^o72^- 
BernL — W/-z M. Meslan, on the line from Lonent to Gourin, see p. 20U. 

Beyond Pontivy the line descends the valley of the Blavet. — 
54 M. St. Nicolas-des-Eaux has a Chapel of St. Nicodemus [1539), 
which is annually visited by many pilgrims. On the day of the 
'Pardon' (the first Sat. in Aug.) the cattle of the neighbourhood are 
brought in procession to a Fountain (1608) near the chapel. Some 
of the animals are presented to the saint and are afterwards bought 
by the peasants, who firmly believe that they will bring them luck. 
— Between two short tunnels is the station of (561/2 M.) St. Rivalain. 
The station of (621/2 M.) Baud lies 3 M. to the W. of the town of 
that name, for which the line from Ploermel to Plouay is more con- 
venient (see p. 209). — 661/2 M. Lambel- Camors is situated in the 
midst of the forest of Camors. ' 

Beyond (711/2 M.) Pluvigner, a town with 5437 inhab. and a 
church of 1546, ''we join the line from Brest to Nantes. — 79 M. 

Auray^ see p. 251. . 1 

I 

33. From St. Brieuc to duimper. i 

a. Via. Auray. 1 

141 M. in 6V3-9V4 hrs. No through train; carriages are changed atj 

Pontivy and at Auray. Fares about 25 fr. 60, 17 fr. 45, 11 fr. dU c. , 

From St. Brieuc to Auray, see R. 32; thence to Quimperj 

see R. 36ii. i 



CARHAIX. 33. Route. 235 

b. Vi& Loud^ac and Ch&teanlin. 

I28V2 M. No through train. Carria-es are changed at Loudeac, whence 
we travel on a Ime of the Chemins de Fer Economiquefl. and at Chat^auTin! 
where we change to the Brest and Quimper line (Chemin de Fer d'Or- 
tans) In addition there is always a fairly long wait at Carhaix It is 
nX.tu '". "^-r^f^Pl'f?^ the journey in one day as the connections are 
bad, but It IS an interesting route through one of the most curious and least 
known parts of Bnttany. Fares from St. Brieuc to Loudeac (30V2 M.) 5 fr 60 

^fr' OV. f . ^l->f°°',.^""'^'^'' *° Ghdteaulin (79 M.) 14 fr. 30, 9 fr. 60 
Ir. 20 c. ; from Chateaulin to Quimper (19 M.) 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 55 c. 

From St. Brieuc to Loudiac , see R. 32. Our line skirts the 
highroad from Renues to Brest as far as Rostrenen The Oust is 
V^vT^' ^Aitl'j" ^' i^'""' Loudeac) St. Caradec, with a church of 
1004. — lu M. bt. Guen, amidst characteristic scenery — 13 M 
Mur-de-Bretagne (Hot. de la Grande-Maison), with 2436 inhab * 
lies on a hill to the right before the station is reached. The sur- 
ZTmT.^'%. attractive, particularly the Valley of Poulancre, 
33/4 M to the N. - We reach the Blavet, cross it twice, and ascend 
Its pretty valley to the left. 

16 M. Caureines near the fine Forest of Quenecan, which ex- 
tends almost to Gouarec. — I8V2 M. St. Gelven. — 21 M Bon- 
^.po« near the ruined church (13th cent.) and other remains of 
the abbey of that name. - 231/2 M. Oouarec (Auberge Lannezval), 
picturesquely situated, is a good centre for excursions in the valley 
of the Blavet. — 271/2 M. Plouguernevel. 

31 M Rostrenen (Hot. des Voyageurs et du Commerce, R. 2, 

Wrt^r' ""' ?• ^/^f^O, an old place with 2185 inhab., has a 

church (Notre-Dame-du-Roncier) founded in 1295 but afterwards 

M ^; ATr ^?y2 M. Mael-Carhaix. - 4OI/2 M. Trebrivan-le- 
MoustoiT. At Le Moustoir is a 16th cent, church. We join the line 
from Guingamp to Rosporden (p. 236) on the right. 

441/2 M. Carhaix r^wy^ei, with rooms; Hot. de la Tour d'Au- 
vergne, R. 2-3, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr., good; de France), a town with 3600 
innab. on the right, is picturesquely situated on a hill on the left 
bank of the Hicre. It perhaps represents the ancient Vorganium, the 
capital ot the Osismii and the point of intersection of several Roman 
roads of which some traces remain. It has a large trade in cattle. 
fir.A. .>. w?^' Augustins, the chief street, reached by turning 
first to the left and then to the right from the station, passes near 
bv M.ri .1 Champ d^-Bataille, in which stands a bronze statue 
by Marochetti (1841) of La Tour d'Auvergne (1743-1800) 'the first 
grenadier of France' and a native of Carhaix. The Rue duPave, on 

orn."rfi 'I '}\^''\f ^^^ ^^^'^ (interesting Old House at the 
corner) leads to the old collegiate Church of St. Tr/mei/r (16th cent ), 

I n\ • *.v^"^ *^"^''- ^^"^^' ^"' *« the right beyond a square 

containing the post-office, is the 16th cent. Church of Plouguer, 
wnich contains some good wood-carvings. 

Railway to Guingamp and Rotporden, see R. 33c; to Morlaix, see p. 244. 



236 Route 33. PLEYBEN. 

48Vo M. Port-de-Car}iaix, on the canal from Nantes to Brest, 
which our line crosses by-and-by, — Beyond (52 M.) St. Hernin- 
Cleden we enter the pretty winding valley of the Aulne, which is 
followed as far as Chateaulin. — 55V2 M. Spezet-Landeleau. The 
Chapelle da Cran (1632), at Spt^zet, 'd^% M. to the S., contains ad- 
niirabli' stained glass of 1548. — 59 M. Plonevez-du-Faou. 

62 M. ChS-teauneuf-du-Faou (Hot. du Midi), with 4016 inhab., 
is very picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill dominating the 
left bank of the Aulne. — 64V2 M. Lanyalet. — 67 M. Lennon. 

71 M. Pleyben {Hot. de la Croix- Blanche , R. IV2, dcj. 2, D. 
2V2 fr.)? 'With 5643 inhab., stands on a plateau II/4 M. to the right. 
It has a 16th cent, church with a tasteful porch, a handsome square 
tower terminating in an octagonal lantern, and fine stained glass 
(1564). Beside the churcli are a 15th cent, charnel-house and a 
curious Calvary of 1650, in the style of that at Plougastel (p. 228 ). 

Beyond (741/2 M.) St. Segal the line descends rapidly. — 77 M. 
Port-Launay, the harbour of Chateaulin, with extensive quays. — 
Crossing the Aulne we enter (79 M.) Chateaulin. For this town and 
the line thence to Quimper, see R. 36 1. 

c. Vi&. Guingamp and Rosporden. 

951/2 M. in 6V2-9V4 lirs. There is no through train. Carriages are 
changed at Guingamp, whence we travel by the Chemins de Fer Econo- 
miques, and at Rospoiden, where we join the Cheujin de Fer d'Ork'ans. 
Fares from St. Biieuc to Guingamp (I8V2 M.) 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 50 c. 5 
from Guingamp to Rosporden (b4'/2 M.i 11 fr. 75, 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 10 c. ^ from 
Rosporden to Quimper (12V2 M.) 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 55 e., 1 fr. 

From St. Brieuc to Guingamp, see p. 225, — We diverge to the 
left from the line to Brest and ascend the valley of the Trieux. 
About 31/2 M. from Guingamp we see on the left the village of 
Coadout, which is noted for its 'Pardon des Coqs' (1st Sun. in 
Advent), so called from the cocks presented to St.Ildut. The finest 
cock is placed on the belfry and when it flies down it becomes the 
property of the first person who can catch it, to whom it brings 
good luck. — 71/2 M. (trom Guingamp) Mousterus-Bourbriac is the 
station for the country-town of Bourbriac (Hot. Le Ray), 32/4 M. to 
the left, which has 4326 iiihab. and a church with a fine belfry of 
1501. — The line now ascends over some granite hills, covered 
with heath and furze, which form part of the chain of the Monts 
d'Arre'e (p. 244). — 12 M. Pont-Melvez, 33/4 M. to the S. of which 
is Bulat-Pesiivien, with a church of Notre-Dame (15-16th cent.; 
tower of 1552), interesting for its sculptures, and an important 
'pardon' (on Sept. 8th). We now reach a plateau. — 15 M. Plou- 
gonver, 21/2 M. to the right, has a belfry of 1666. — At (21 M.) 
Callac (Hot. de Bretagne), with 3629 inhab., important cattle-fairs 
are held. We de^-cend into the picturesque valley of the Hure. — 
271/2 M. Carnoet-Locarn, beyond which our line is joined by those 
from Morlaix (see p. 244) and from Loude'ac (^see p. 235). 



BINIC. 34. Route. 237 

331/2 M. Carhaix, see p. 235. — Beyond (371/2 M.) Port-de- 
Carhaix (p. 236) we diverge to the left from the line to Ghateaulin 
(see p. 236) and ascend a pretty valley. — After passing (41 1/2 M.) 
Motreff we ascend over the E. spurs of the Montagues Noires (see 
p. 246), a small chain of hills running parallel with the Monts 
d'Arre'e (p. 244). ^ 

461/2 M. Gourin (Hot. du Cheval-Blanc, R. II/2, de'j. 21/4, D. 
21/2 fr.), an old place with 5053 inhab., is situated on the S. slope 
of the Montagnes Noires, 520 ft. above sea-level, and commands a 
fine view. The church of 8t. Peter dates from the 15th cent, and 
the chapel of Notre -Dame from the 16th. Beside the town are 
quarries of stone and slate. Railway to Meslan and Lorient, see 
p. 250. — We descend into the valley of the /nam. 

491/2 M. Kerbiguet, with the ruins of a 16th cent, chateau We 
traverse a viaduct 59 ft. high. — 531/2 M.Gaiscn/f, with 4972 inhab 
and a church of 1570. The Isole is crossed. — 57 M. Scaer (Hot* 
des Voyageurs), with 6565 inhab., lies to the left, short of the 
station. — 60 M. Cootloch. — Beyond (621/2 M.) Kemevel the Pond 
ofRosporden is crossed.— 641/2 M.iJosporrfcn, and thence to ft 2i/oM ) 
Quimper^ see p. 248. 

34. Excursions from St.Brieuc and from Guingamp. 

I. From St. Brieuc to Guingamp by the Narrow-Gauge Railway. 

34 M., in 23/4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 85 c). 

Stations in St. Brieuc, see p. 225. Passing under the bridge 
of Rohannech we reach a point above the Haut-Le'gue' whence we 
have an admirable view over the valley of the Gouet, the plateau 
of Plorin, and the sea. A good 1/4 M. farther on we cross the 
Viaduct ofSouzain, 315 yds. long and 120 ft. high. The branch- 
hue to the right runs to the harbour (p. 225). Four more viaducts 
are crossed. Fine view to the left. — Beyond (31/2 M.) Plerin is a 
lofty viaduct called the Viaduc du Parfond de Gouet. — 6 M. Pordic 
2 M. from the sea, ' 

81/2 M. Binic {Hot. de France; de Bretagne; de la Plage; de 
IVnivers; furnished houses), a seaport with 2231 inhab., at the 
mouth of the /c, is a sea-bathing resort with a quiet, though some- 
what muddy, beach. Steamer to Guernsey weekly (p. xiv) Two 
more lofty viaducts are crossed. — 12 M. Etables (Hot. Bellevue 
w* f \^^Tl. ^- ^'^"^ ^'/2, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 7, omn. 
V4fr.; de la Croix-de-Pierre), with 2146 inhab., is another sea- 
bathing resort, with two small beaches respectivelv 1/9 M and 2/0 M 
roDi the town, — I31/2 M. Portrieux (Hot. du Talus"; de la PlageL 
i pleasantly situated village with a good harbour of refuge also 
rrequented for sea-bathing. 

ievcfnT V*'ST ^^J.^"'^"^' 16 ^^ ™^*-gJg «°^« <iaily (fare 3 fr.). 
ieyond St. Qvay (p. 233) we traverse a pretty, undulating tract and 



238 Route 34. PAIMPOL. Ercursiom 

gradually leave the coast. — G M. Plouha (Hot. du Commerce), with 474G 
inhab., lies 2 M. from the sea. — S'/a M. Lanloup, at the end of a valley, 
IV* M. from the Plage de Brdhec. — 12V2 M. I'louizec (inns), barely 1 M. 
from the sea, wliich we again approach. — From the road near (I4V2M.) 
Ahhaye de Beauport we have iiuite a good view of tl)e fine ruins (13-15th cent. ; 
no atlm.). The ves^etation of the gardens here is southern in character 
owing to the Gulf Stream. — 15 M. K^rity is prettily situated near the bay 
of Beauport. — 16 31, Paimpol, see below. 

14^2 M. St. Quay (Hot. de la Flage-j de St. Quay; du Gerbot- 
d'Avoine), the most attractive sca-batMng resort on this coast, has 
several line sandy beaches. — The station of (I81/2 M.) Plouha is 
1^4 M. from the town (see above). — 231/2 M. Lanvollon (Hot. de 
Bretagne") dominates the valley of the Leff^ which we cross by a 
viaduct. About 41/2 M, down the valley lies Lanleff, with the so- 
called Temple de Lanleff, an interesting circular church of the 
12th cent., modelled on a reduced scale from the church of the Holy 
Sepulchre at Jerusalem, like that at QuimperM (p. 248). — 34 M. 
Guingamp, see p. 225. 

II. From Guingamp to Paimpol. 

23 M. Eailwat in IV2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). — This 
is a fine excursion, the best views being to the left. 

Guingamp, see p. 225. The railway crosses the Trieux^ passes 
under the Brest line, and ascends rapidly towards the N. — 6 M. 
Tregonneau-Squiffiec, — 91/2 M. Plouec, junction for the branch- 
line to Treguier (see p. 239). Beyond an undulating tract we return 
to the valley of the Trieux and recross that stream. 

There are two stations at (13 M.) Pontrieux (Buvette; Grand- 
Hotel; Hot. de France), the first one V2M. outside the pretty little 
town, which lies to the left on the Trieux. The river here forms a 
small harbour, which is reached by the tides. 

The line now runs above the river , which is most beautiful 
at high tide. The Leff is crossed by a handsome bridge. — On the 
left bank appears the curious Chateau de la Roche-Jagu (15th cent.). 
— 16 M. Frinandour or Frynaudour ('nose in the water'). — • 
191/2 M. Plourivo-Lezardrieux is the station for Lezardrieux (Hot. 
du Commerce), another small port, 2-2V2M. to the N., on the left 
bank, which is reached by a lofty suspension bridge. The river, 
here very wide, takes the name of Ledano. The railway finally 
quits the estuary of the Trieux. 

23 M. Paimpol (Hot. Gicquel, Continental, at both R. 21/2-3, 
pens. 6I/2-81/2, omn. 1/2 fr.), a small town (2805 inhab.) situated 
at the end of a bay with high wooded banks, has small sea-baths 
and a Harbour, but contains little of interest. In the oval Place 
du Martrai are some old houses. The Church, of the 13th and 
15th cent., possesses a 16th cent, triptych and some old pictures. 
On a hill outside the town stands the Tour de Kerroc'h, with statues 
of the Virgin and St. Anne. — Paimpol is an important centre for 
the French boats engaged in the cod-fishery ofif Newfoundland and 



from Guingamp. TREGUJEK. 34. Route. 239 

Iceland; and the annual departure in February of the ^Islandais' 
(fishermen bound for Iceland; 'pecheurs d'Islande') is the occasion 
of a celebrated festival. 

Environs of Paimpol. — To the E. of Paimpol lie (ii/4 M ) Mritv and 
(13/4 M.) ihQ Abhaye de Beavport (see p. 238). — About 71/2-8 M to the S E 
and nearly 1 M. to the right of the St. Brieuc road, is Lanleff (p 238)' — 
About 5 M. to the N. and IV4 M. ofl" the coast is Ihe He BHhai Hdt 
Lucas; Burton, pens^ 5-7 fr.), offering a gf)od harbour of refuge, large enough 
for men-of-war. The island which may be reached by the Foiniede 
lArcouett (motor-launch 25 c.) and the fine bea.h of Launay, possesses 
small sea-baths^ and is surrounded by curious islets and rocks The re- 
turn IS made via, Ploubazlanec and by shaded roads affording many pretty 
ghmpses. - A diligence plies from Paimpol to Triguier (6 M.; see below) 
via L^zardrieux (3 M. ; p. 238) in 2 hrs. (2 fr.). - From Paimpol to FortrieZ\ 

see p. <o0 4. 

III. From Guingamp to Treguier. 

20 M. Narrow -Gadge Railway in I3/4-21/2 hrs.; carnages changed at 
Pouec. Fares from Guingamp to Plonec 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 15, 70 c; from 
Plouec to Treguier 1 fr. 30, 90 c. ^ ^ ^"> irom 

From Guingamp to (91/2 M.) Plouec, see p. 238. The line tra- 
verses a plateau. 11 M. Runan. — I41/2 M. Pommerit-Jaudy, whence 
the fine valley of Jaudy is reached. — 151/2 M. La Roche- Derrim 
(Hot. de France), on the Jaudy, has a ruined chateau and an inter- 
esting church (12th and 14-15th cent.) with a Renaissance altar- 
piece, Charles of Blois was defeated and taken prisoner here in 1347 
by Tanneguy Duchatel. The Jaudy is crossed. — 16 M. Langa%ou. 

20 M. Treguier {Hot. de France, Rue Cohestre, R. from II/2 
dej. or D. 21/2, pens. 61/2 fr.; Lion d'OrJ, a pretty town with 3028 
inhab. and a good little Harbour (51/2 M. from the sea), lies partly 
on the hills at the confluence of the Jaudy and the Guindy, which 
unite to form the Treguier. Near the station, at the harbour, is the 
Calvaire de Reparation, raised in 1904 as a protest against the 
erection of a statue to Ernest Renan (1823-92), a native of Tre'guier 
whose monument (by Boucher; 1903) stands in the Place de 
1 Eglise. We ascend to the town by the long Rue des Bouchers 
or by the Rue Ernest-Renan , where a tablet marks the house in 
which Renan was born. 

The * Church, formerly a cathedral, was begun in 1150 but not 
finished until 1461. Of the three transeptal towers, that to the S 
has a spire (207 ft.), that to the N. is Romanesque. The 15th cent 
Cloisters are entered from the left transept. In the church is the 
Tomb of St. Yves (1253-1303). patron-saint of advocates ('advocatus 
sed non latro, res miranda popalo'), restored in 1890. The stalls 
(17th cent.), the lectern, and two carved wooden altars, in the 
ambulatory, are noteworthy. — Behind the church the garden (now 
public) of the old episcopal palace extends down to the river 
?♦ ii-T\^^^ ^- }9 *^® S., near the Pontrieux road, rise- the belfry of 
&t. Muhael a relic of an old Gothic church (fine view). A little lower 

ih^h \^i 'y' "^^* V^' ''^'-^^^ ^/ ^^«^»«»'^^ is the site of the house fn 
wnich St. Yves was born on Oct. 17th, 1258. 



240 Route 34. I.ANiNlON. Excursions 

At Plougrescant ^ 41/2 M. to the X., is the chapel of St. Oouery, con- 
taining the tine mausoleum of Guillaume de Halgouet (d, 1602), bishop of 
Tr^guier 

Road to Lizardrietix and Paimpol, see p. 239. 

Fkom TBftr.urEU to Pokt-Bi.an'o, 6 M. by road (carriage sent from the 
hotel at Port-Blanc to the station if ordered). — We cross the (iuindy by 
the Pont Noir and pass Plouguiel and Penvenan (see below). — Port-Blanc 
(Hotel, pens. 4-5 fr.) is a small bathing-resort of recent origin, with a 
few villas, on a rocky coast studded with barren islets. 

From Tri5:goii:r to Lannion, 18 M., narrow-gauge railway in IV4 hr. 
(fares 1 fr. 9o, 1 fr. 30 c). — The Ouindy is crossed. — In the church 
(if (2 M.) Plouguiel is a tomb with a 14th cent, statue. — Beyond (iV2M.) 
Penvenan, is the fine viaduct of Kerdeo/.er. — At (11 M.) Petit-Camp we 
join the line from Lannion to Perros-Guirec (see p. 2il). 

IV. From Guingamp to Lannion. Environs of Lannion. 

26V2 M. Railway in I-IV4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 8), 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). 

From Guingamp to (16 M.) Ptouaret, see p. 226. The line to 
Lannion runs towards the N. — At (21 M.) Kerauzern is an elegant 
Gothic chateau. Valley of the Leguer, see below. 

261 '2 M. Lannion. — Hotels. H6t.de l'Eueope, Rue des Capucins, R. 2-3, 
B. 3/4, <iej. 2V2, D. 3, pens. 8 9, omn. V2 fr., good; du Geand-Tdec et des 
VoYAGEURS, near the station, R. 2, dej. or D. 2V2, pens. ()V2, omn. 1/2 fr. 5 
DE France, near the bridize. — Post & Telegraph Office, Place du Centre. — 
Carriages at the Hot. de lEurope or from Mcol^ Avenue de la Gare. 

Lannion, a town with 5856 inhab. and a small lishing Harbour, 
in charmingly situated on the Leguer. the mouth of which faces W. 
The town, which is an important centre for excursions, contains 
some interesting old Houses. The Church of Sit. Jean (16-17th cent.) 
has a square tower of 1519. — On a hill 2/3 M. tothe N. stands the 
interesting church of BreLevenez, dating chiefly from the l'2th cent.; 
the round pillars of the nave have given a little under the weight 
of the aisles; there is a crypt beneath the choir. 

Railway to Tr&guiev, see above. 

From Lannion to the Chateaux in the Valley of the Leguer, 
a very interesting excursion of 4 hrs. (carr. 10 fr.). On the right 
bank lies (272 M.) Buhulim, whence we go on foot to the scanty 
but picturesque ruins of the Chateau de Coetfrec (15th cent), on 
the left bank. About 41/2 M. from Buhulien, via (3V2 M.) Ton- 
quedec, lie the ruins of the large Chateau de Tonquedec (fee), 
dominating the right bank; this chateau was already a rnin in 1395 
and was rebuilt in the 15th century. Proceeding thence towards 
Lannion we first visit the Chateau deKergrist and then theChapelle 
de Kerfons (those wishing to take train from Ke'rauzern . 2 M. 
from Kergrist, visit Kerfons first). The Chateau de Kergrist (15th 
cent.; still inhabited) is 21/2-8 M. to the S.W. of the Chateau de 
Tonque'dec, via Kermorgan, where the road to Lannion along the 
left bank diverges to the right. About 1/2 M. farther S. stood the 
Chateau de Runfau, of which only the chapel remains (15th cent.). — 
The Chapelle de Kerfons or Kerfaouez, in the direction of Lannion, 



from Ouingamp. PERROS-GUIREC. 34. Route. 241 

near the left bank of the Lcguer, is reached by a path diverging to 
the right from the highroad 2/3 M. from Kerraorgan (see p. 240; in 
all 3/4 M. from Kermorgan). It dates from the 16th cent, and is 
interesting for its wooden rood-screen of the period. We are here 
41/2 M. from Lannion, whi<;h is reached via (iM.'jPLoubezre, a large 
village with an interesting church and calvary. 

Fkom Lannion to Plestin (p. 226), IOI/2 M. The road runs via 
(7M.) St. Michel-en-Oreve (Hot. de la Plage; Lion d'Or; Bellevue) 
and St. Efflam (p. 226), situated at the two extremities of the exten- 
sive Lieue de Greoe, on the site of a former forest said to have been 
swallowed up by the sea in 709, like the Marais de Dol (p. 204). 

From Lannion to Trkbkurdrn, 71/2 M. (diligence daily, 2 fr. ; 
carr. 10 fr.). Trebeurden (Hot. Martret, good) is a sea-bathing 
resort in a charming situation, with two fine beaches and a small 
harbour at the mouth of the Le'guer, where there are numerous 
picturesque rocky islets. It may be reached also by boat from Lannion. 

From Lannion to Perros-Guirec, 8 M., narrow-gauge railway in 
40 mjn. from the Gare de TOuest (fares 1 fr., 65 c). — 41/2 M. Petit-Camp 
junction for the line to Trds;;iiier (see p. 240). 

8 M. Perros-Guirec {Hot. du Levant, des Bains, both unpretend- 
ing), a small harbour prettily situated on the bay of the same 
name, has two bathing-beaches, viz. the fine beach o( *Trestraou 
[Gr.-H6t.^ de la Plage, R. 3-5, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 7-9, omn. 
V2fr.; Hot. des Bains), with the most important baths, and the 
beach of Trestrignel(Gv.-liQt. de Perros-Guirec, R. 3-5, B.l, de'j. 3, 
D. 8V2, pens. 7-9, omn. 1 fr.). 

From Perros-Guirec to Trkgastel, 41/2 M. via Trestraou (see above) 
ind the chapel of Notre- Dame de-la- Clart<i (Hot. de la Clarte, open July 1st- 
sept. 30th, pens. 5-8 fr), which appears on the hill and whence we have 
I good view. The direct route passes 2/3 M. to the right of Ploumanac'h 
Hot. Bellevue; des Rochers) a village with a sriiall harbour in a chaos 
)f cumusly shaped Rocks. On the hither side of its lighthouse is the little 
jhapelle St. Quirec, witli a statue info which pins are stuck by girls who 
^^''^^V^^^ married. Opposite, in the sea, lie the Seven Islands, the chief 
•f which IS the He aux Moines, with a lighthouse and a dismantled fort. 

From Lannion to Tregastel, 8 M., diligence once dally in the 
eason (2 fr.). With a carriage (10 fr.) the excursions to Perros-Guirec 
.nd to Tr<?gastel may be combined. 

The road begins at the end of the harbour, at the extremity of 
he promenade called the Alle'e-Verte, and ascends towards the N., 
eaving a road to Perros-Guirec on the left. The route is uninterest- 
ng until we approach the sea. — Before reaching (6 M.) Treganel 
not the Tre'gastel near Plougasnou, p. 244) we pass a curious 
''.alvary. — 8 M. Plage de Tregastel (Hot. de la Plage, de la Mer, 
t both R. 11/2. dej. or D. 2, pens. 5 fr.). This part of the coast is 
hiefly noted for its curious Rocks, which are arranged in groups 
I'orn by the sea into the most singular shapes. The beach of yellow 
and slopes gradually, so that the tide goes a long way out. 

From Tre'gastel to Plotnnavac'h and to Perros-Guirec, see above. 

Hakdkkkr"3 Northern Fiance. 5th Edit. ^Q 



242 

35. Excursions from Morlaix. 
I. From Morlaix to St. Pol-de-Leon and to Eoscoff. 

iiy-i M. Railway to St. Pol, 13V2 M., in 40-46 min. (Cares 2 fr. 60, 
1 fr, 75, 1 fr. 15 c.); thence to Roscoff in 12 min. (HO, 55, 30 c.). 

Morlaix, see p. 2'26. The branch-line to Roscoff diverges to the 
right flora the main line beyond Morlaix. — Beyond (7 M.) Taule- 
Henvic the Penze is crossed by a viaduct 100 ft. high. — 10'/2 M. 
Plouenan. To the right, in the distance, appear the spires of St. Pol- 
de-Leon and the estuary of the Penze'. 

131/2 M. St. Pol-de-Leon (Hot. de France, plain), a quiet town 
with 8140 inhab., lies 1/2 M. from the sea, where its little harbour 
of Ftmpoul is situated. 

It was founded in the 6th cent, by St. Pol, a Welsh monk and first 
bishop of the town. The two fine reliijious monuments preserved here 
attest its importance in the middle ages. 

The *ChapeUe du Creizker ('centre of the town' in Breton), dating 
chiefly from the 14th cent., is noted for its open-work *Tower (255 ft. 
high), with a spire surrounded by turrets. We enter by the N. porch, 
an elaborately carved work of the 15th century. The handsome piers 
supporting the tower, with their slender clustered columns; the 
windows at each end and on the S. side; and an altar surmounted 
by a wooden altar-piece with twisted columns, on the right, are the 
chief points of interest in the interior. 

The iormev * Cathedral, a curious building of the 13-15th cent., 
with two handsome open-work Towers, 180 ft. high, presents pecul- 
iarities that are hardly to be found united elsewhere. These include 
a porch with a terrace intended for benedictions, a lepers' door to 
the right of the main entrance, a catechumens' porch on the S., 
and a gallery for pronouncing excommunications above the window 

of the S. transept. 

The most noteworthy objects in the interior are the tasteful triforium, 
surmounted by a frieze and a balustrade; the organ-case, of 1658; a stainea- 
glass window of 1560 (Works of Charity) in the right aisle, near the 
baptistery, and a tine rose- window in the right transept; sixty-nine choir- 
stalls of 1512; a palm in gilded wood, in the form of a cross, whence the 
ciborium was formerly hung over the high-altar; five tombs of bishops, 
in the ambulatory; a Renaissance wall-niche, in the apsidal chapel; 8 
curious painting of a figure with three faces, symbolizing the Trinity, m 
the vaulting of the 3rd chapel on the right; and, in the Ist chapel on the 
left, the bones of St. Pol and the tombstone of Amice Picard (d. 1652). 
who is here venerated as a saint. 

In the Place du Petit-Cloitre, behind the cathedral, is a formei 
prebendary's house (16th cent.). The Rue de la Bive leads thenc^ 
to Pempoul (p. 243). 

The former episcopal palace (18th cent.), to the left of th< 
church, is now the Hotel de Ville; the garden has been convertec 
into a promenade. 

The Rue Verderel, to the left of the Chapelle du Creizker, lead 
to the Cemetery, which contains an old church (15th cent); th< 
handsome stations of the cross, arranged in a semicircle round th< 



ROSCOFF. 35. Route. 243 

cross, are of granite. By the outer walls are some old charnel-houses 
in a very neglected state. 

Thifl street goes on towards Pempoul, a small harbour on a marshy 
bay, beyond which lies Carantec (p. 227). There is a small and unattractive 
beach called the Plage Ste. Anne. 

On the right we approach the sea, at the mouth of the river 
Morlaix. On the other side is the Pointe de Primel (p. 244). 

171/2 M. Roscoif. — Hotels. Hot. des Bains de Mer, near the church 
pens, from 6, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Talabaudon, adjacent, dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens.' 
froui 5 fr.; DK LA Maison-Blanche, near the harbour; de la Marine, near 
the beach R. 2-3, dej. or D. 21/2, pens. 61/2-71/2, omn! 1/2 fr.5 dd Palmier 
opposite the post-office, R. 11/2-2, dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 5-6 fr. ^^"^^«' 

Rosco/f ('the blacksmith's mound'), a small seaport with 5054 
inhab., carries on a trade in the excellent vegetables of the neigh- 
bourhood, the fertility of which is said to be due to the Gulf Stream. 

We turn to the right beyond the station to reach the town. Iii 
the street to the left of the harbour are a house with a small 
oratory and some remains of cloisters, and the Chapelle St. Ninien 
which commemorates the landing of Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1548,' 
it the age of five, when on her way to be betrothed to the Dauphin 
Francis. Prince Charles Edward Stuart also landed here after es- 
caping from Scotland in 1746. Farther on in the town, on the left 
s the Church of Notre-Dame-de-Croaz-Baz, noted for its unusual 
;ower (1550), which has a spire somewhat resembling a minaret. 
Short of the church are two small chapels of the same period 

Inside the church, in the left aisle, is an alabaster altar-piece of the 
^Othcent.; on the right is an old font, in a rotunda of the 17th cent. : 
?ni hi >f n"^ /"^ vaulting are friezes adorned with sculpture; the beau- 
iful high-altar dates from the 17th century. 

The Mairie, in the street to the right of the church, is an inter- 
isting old house; other old houses may be seen in other streets. 

In the Place in front of the church, farther on to the left, is a 
Uanne Laboratory, to which visitors are admitted (entr. by the 
mall door). The street on the hither side of the laboratory leads to 
he Sea Baths, on small beaches which present long stretches of 
and at low tide. The He de Batz is visible thence. 

The street beginning in front of the church leads back to the 
tation. From the point where it turns to the left for the station we 
aay follow the Route de St. Pol straight on in order to visit a huge 
'ig Tree, which is shown in a former convent-garden a little farther 
n (adm. 50 c). 

oat^^fiT^'^l-nif;-?'^^ l^® ^""-f* ^'^^^^^ '"^^^^ ^^^ ^' ^«<^ (Hot. Robinson; 
oat ^5 c.) inhabited by sailors. There is a small harbour on the S. side 
he island contains little of interest. 

II. From Morlaix to St. Jean-du-Doigt and to Plougasnou. 

iiflnm,^/n°^i"r''''5 ®n^':^."??7^i°^ (* ^""-^ ^"^ Plougasnou- Primel; from Plou- 
ftsnou to St. Jean-du-Doigt V/tM. on foot or by carriage (short-cut 2/3 M.). 

Morlaix, see p. 226. Our road is a continuation of the quay on 
le nght bank beyond the viaduct ; it ascends to the N., then descends 

16* 



244 Route :i5. PLOUGASNOU. 

into a valley, beyond vvliich it re-asccnds to a plateau. In the distance 
to the left appears St. Pol-de-I^eon (p. '2i'2). Finally we pass the 
direct road (right) to St. Jean-du-Doigt. 

St. Jean-du-Doigt (Hot. St. Jennet des Bains-de-Mer, R. lV2-^» 
de'j. '2, 1). '2V2i pens. 5-7 fr.), 10 M. to the N.E. of Morlaix, derives 
its name from the relic of St. John the Baptist preserved in its church. 
The local 'pardon' takes place on St. John's Eve (23rd June). The 
Ckurch, a remarkable edilice of 1440-1513, has a valuable treasury, 
containing fine chalices and an interesting crucifix in addition to the 
finger of St. John, whirh is preserved in a gold and silver enamelled 
casket of the 15th cent. (50 c. each visitor). Near the church, at 
the entrance to the cemetery, is a Miraculous Fountain, vi'ith a taste- 
ful Renaissance monument. The cemetery contains a Morttiary 
Chapel of 1577. — The Sej Baths are situated on a fine heach 2/3 M. 
to the N., hair way to Plougasnou. 

About 8 M. to tlie E. ot St. Jean lies Locquirec Cp. 226), whicb also 
is reacbed by diligence from Morlaix, starting every morning. 

Plougasnou (Hot. des Bains; de Bretagne)., also 10 M. from 
Morlaix, has 3843 inhab. and an interesting Renaissance church. 
The diligence goes on to the little Sea-Baths of Primel (Gr.-HOt. 
Primel; Hot. des Bains; de la Plage), at the little harbour of Tre- 
gastel (not the Tre'gastel near Lannion, p. 241), IV4 M. to the N. 
The adjacent Pointe de Primel is a rocky promontory to the right of 
the broad estuary of the river Morlaix, facing the promontory of 
Roscoff (p. 243-). 

lil* From Morlaix to Carhaix. Huelgoat. 

30Vz M. Railway in I3/4-21/2 brs. (fares 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 40 c). 

Morlaix, see p. 226. Afcer crossing the Viaduct our line diverges 
to the right from the line to St. Brieuc and Paris. — The station of 
(6 M.) Plougonven-Plourin lies respectively 3 M. to the W. and 
2- M. to the S.E. of the villages after vhich it is named. We then 
crois the Monts d'Arree, the principal chain in Brittany (1280 ft.), 
partly barren and partly thickly iivooded. We ascend rapidly. — 
1072 M. Le CloUre-Lanneanou. Vievp to the right. — Beyo)id (16 M.) 
Scrignac- Berrien we descend into the valley of the Aulne. View to 
the left. 

21 M. Huelgoat-Locmaria; the station is at Locmaria, 4 M. from 
Huelgoat (omn. 1 fr., there and back ll/^^r.). 

The road to Huelgoat ascends the valley of an affluent of the Aulne. 
About 3/4 M. short of Huelgoat, on the left (guide-boa'-d), a fairly steep 
:.nd muddy path leads dovi^n to a spot called Le Gouffre. Here amidst 
magniticent scenery the stream forms a cascade and then disappears under 
the rocks for a distance of 220 yards. A little farther on, before reaching 
the bridge, and a few min. to the right of the road (guide-board), is the 
curious little OroUe cCArtus, to which the rocks give the appearance of a 
huge dolmen. The Camp d'Artus lies beyond (see p. 215). — Huelgoftt 
{f/6t. de France, to the right beyond the church, R. from IV2, dej. or D. 2v^ 
pen". 7 fr. : de Bretagne, at the entrance to the village 5 du Lac, near the 
lake), prettily ituated in a wooded valley studded with rocks, near a large 



CIIATEAULIN. 30. Eoule. 245 

poDfl, o/Ters pleasant summer quarters. The 16th cent. C/mrch has a modern 
belfry. The objects of note in the interior include the ancient font-cover- 
a wooden dais; the wooden Irieze below the vaulting; and a gn.up re- 
presenting a priest between a nobleman and a beggar. The Fond i a lower 
down on the left; at the bridge over the stream flowing into it is a pictur- 
esque mill and a chaos of rocks called the 'Manage de la Vierge' (house- 
■hold ot the Virgin), the Pillow, the Armchairs, etc. An ascent to the 
right beyond the bridge brings us in 5 min. to an enormous rocking-stone 
known as the 'rocher tremblant'. Ihe road to the right beyond the bridge' 
which may be joined by following the path to the left be^ ond the rockine 
stone, leads above the partly wooded valley named the Camp d'Arlus At 
the end (ca. 3/^ m.) is a pleasanter road by which we may return throueh 
the woods, coming out near the Grotte d'Artus (p. 244) 

About 41/2 M to the S W of Huelgoat, in the opposite direction from 
I» ?}l \^^ ^'' .^^^^0* (Auberge de Bellevue), with a pretty Chapel of 
the Ibth cent, containing a mag.iilicent rood-screen of the period. An inter- 
esting pardon is held here in May, combined with a cattle-fair. Interesting 
points in the environs are the Chateau du Ru.^qvec{^l, M.), and the Cascades 
■Crf." ! . (iDSignihcant in summer), formed by the Ellez, an affluent 
or the Aulne. ' 

24 M. Poiillaouen, 3 M. to the W. of the station, with an abandon- 
ed mine of argentiferous lead. — 27'/., M. Plounevtzel. — SOV^M 
Carhaix (p. 235). '^ 

36. From Brest to Nantes. 

222 M Railway in T'A-IO hrs. (fares 33 fr. 5, 22 fr. 35, 14 fr. 55 c ). 
This is the quickest, though not the shortest route from Qi^imper and 
Vannes to Paris Other routes, diverging at Eedon (p. 253), lead via 
Eennes or via Chateaubriant. ^if j^ 

I. From Brest to Quimper. 

641/2 M. Railway in 21/3-31/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c.). 
Beat views to the right on this picturesque route. 

Brest, see p. 229. Thence to (12 M.) Landerneau, see p. 22>-^ 
We diverge to the right from the railway from Rennes, cross the 
Eiorn, and ascend to (18'/-, M.) Dirinon. We cross a viaduct V4 M 
long and 120 ft. high. 231/2 M. Daoa^a.s (Hot. de Bretagne). This 
name is said to be derived from the Breton words 'monster dacu 
laz ('monastery of the two murders'), and the legend relates that 
the monastery here was originally founded in expiation by a knight 
who had slain two monks at the altar in the 6th century. The chief 
remains of the monastery are parts of the church and cloisters, dating 
from the 12th century. An omnibus (1 fr.) plies hence to (7 M) 
Plougastel (p. 228). — 30 M. Hanvec. To the right we see the 
roads of Brest. Beyond a tunnel (1/4 M. long) we reach (371 M ) 
Quimerc'h, about 33/4 M. to the N.W. of which is the pilgrim-resort 
of Rumengol, visited on March 25th. Trinity Sunday, Aug 15th 
and Sept. 8th. — Beyond a viaduct (130 ft. high) the district becomes 
ess hilly. We cross the navigable Aulne by another lofty viaduct 
^IbO ft. high). 

• ^^Anl^' ^^^*®^^li^ (f^otel de la Grande- Mai son, plain), a town 
with 4237 mhab., picturesquely situated on the Aulne. In the neigh- 
bourhood are important slate-quarries. The only relic of the castle 



246 UouU :i6. QUIMI'P:R. From Brest 

which stood on a rock on the left bank of the Aulne, is the Chapel 
of Notre-Dame, dating from the 15-16th centuries. 

A steamboat (2 fr.) plie> twice weekly from Fort-Launay, the harbour of 
Chateaulin, l'/* ^^- down the river (omnibus), to Brest (p. 229) in 5 hrfl., 
touching at various intermediate places. — A diligence runs daily from 
Chateaulin to (21 M.) Crozon (p. 232) in 4 bra. (fare 3 fr.), passing (7 M.) 
Ste. Marie-du-M4n6-Hom, whence the Mini-Horn (1030 ft.), the chief summit 
of the Montagues Noires (p. 237), may be ascended in 1/2 hr. (fine view). 
From Chateaulin to Carhaix and Loudiac, see R. 33b. 

The railway now quits the valley of the Aulne and descends that 
of the Steir^ which it repeatedly crosses. — 53Vo M. Quemeneven. — 
To the left diverge the branch-lines to Douarnenez and to Pont 
I'Abbe'. Beyond a tunnel we cross the Odet and reach — 

641/2 M. Quimper {*H6tel de I'Epee, R. 3-6, de'j. 3, D. 31/25 pens, 
from 10 fr., du Pare, R. from 2, dej. 21/2, D- 3, pens, from S^/o fr., 
both in the Rue du Pare; de France, Boulevard de I'Odet, R. from 
21/2^ pens, from 8^2 fr. 5 Buffet, at the station). This 'pleasant river- 
side city of fables and gables', the capital of the department of 
Finistere and the seat of a bishop, occupies a fine situation at the 
confluence of the Steir and the Odet (Kemper signifying 'confluence' 
in the Breton tongue). Pop. 19,516. 

The *Cathei>ral of St. Corentin, near the quay on the right 
bank, is one of the finest Gothic edifices in Brittany. Though its 
construction extended over two centuries (13-15th), it is marked by 
great unity of plan. The Portals are richly sculptured but have 
suffered from the hand of time. The spires on the towers are modern. 

The Choir^ the axis of which is not parallel with that of the nave, is 
the linest part of the interior. Other features of interest are the stained 
glass (both ancient and modern), the mural paintings (chiefly by Van Dargent, 
a modern Breton artist), the altar-pieces and statues of the 14th and 15th 
cent., and the tombs of the bishops. The High Altar is a gorgeous modern 
work in gilded bronze, adorned with statuettes and high-reliefs. 

The Place St. Corentin is embellished with a Statue of La'ennec 
(1781-1826), inventor of the stethoscope, who was born at Quimper.' 
The Hotel de Ville, containing the public library,is also in this square. 

The MusEE, in the building to the left, is open daily (except 

Mon.), 12 to 4. 

On the groundfloor are two rooms containing an interesting Archaeo- 
logical Collection, and a group of about 50 figures illustrating Breton costumes. 
The first floor contains a Picture Gallery, with several good examples of old 
masters, especially of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The most important 
is by Alonso Cano (the Virgin presenting to St. Ildefonso a chasuble em- 
broidered by herself), in the second room to the left of the entrance. There 
are also a valuable collection of engravings and some sculptures. 

The modernized Lycee, farther on in the same direction, pre- 
serves part of the old Town- Walls. — The street in front of the 
cathedral crosses the Steir, a tributary of the Odet, and passes near 
the Church of St. Mathieu, which dates from the 16th cent, and was 
recently rebuilt, with a handsome modern tower. — On the other 
side of the Odet, at the foot of Mont Frugy, lie the Prefecture and 
the Allies de Locmaria. The Romanesque Church of Locmaria 



to Nantes. PENMARC'H. 36. Route. 247 

(Uth cent.), at the end of the Allees, is interesting. There is a 
gmalJ harbour on the Odet, 10-11 M. from the sea. 

About 11 M. from Quimper, at the mouth of the Odet, lies Benodet 
( Grand- ffStel), a village frequented for sea-bathing. In summer a steam- 
launch (1 fr. 25 c.) plies thither from Quimper daily, as well as an omnibus 
(1 fr.), starfcins^ from the Place St. Corentin at 2 p.m.; sailing-boat 8-12 fr. 
From Benodet we may cross the river by ferry (5 c) and proceed via 
Combrit (see belovi^) to (5 M.) Pont-rAbbe' (see below). 

From Qdimpebto Pont-l'Abbi* and St. GofeNOL^ (Penmarc'h). To Pont- 
I'Abb^, 131/2 M., railway in V2-I hr. (fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 10 c); thence 
narrow-gauge railway to (Vii/z M.) Penmarc'h and (U M.) St. Gudnole, in 
50 min. (1 fr. 40, 95 c.) Carriage for the excnrsion from Pont r Abbe 
8-10 fr., or 12-15 tr. includin- Loctudy. — 6 M. Plugufan. 10 M. Combrit- 
Tr4mioc. The church of Combrit, H/z M. from the station, contains some 
interesting wood-carvings. About 3 M, to the N.W., on the right bank of 
the Odet, are the interesting remains of the Roman Villa of Le Pirennou. — 
V^'Ji^^o^t-l'Abbe (Liond'Or, R. 11/2-2, D. 3 fr.; des Voyageurs), a town 
with b432 inhab., on the river of the same name, contains a Church (14-16th 
cent.) which belonged to a convent, and a Castle (now the Hotel de v ille) 
still retaining a tower of the 13th century. Pont-l'Abbe is the capital of 
the Btgoudens, a race differing in many re-pects from the other inhabitants 
of Brittany and supposed to be the descendants of a pre-Celtic population 
(p. 1!^3). Ti eir peculiar costumes, often elaborately embroidered, may be 
f^i^ ^^° Sundays and holidays. — Omnibus (50 c.) daily in summer to 
(4 M.) Loctudy (Hot. des Bains, pens, from 51/2 fr., very fair), an unpretending 
bathing-place (Plage de Langoz), with an interesting Romanesque church 
(11th cent. ; restored). Ferry to He Tudy opposite (10 c). 

The Road from Pont-rAbbe to Penmarc'h traverses a wild district, 
with many megalithic monuments. At (I3/4 M.) the Chateau de Kernuz 
(Ibth cent.) visitors are admitted to inspect an admirable collection of 
prehistoric and Gallo-Roman antiquities. Farther on we see to the ri^ht 
*^^m^'^^^^® ^^ ^'- '^^an-TroUmon (4 M. from Pont-rAbhe) with the Chapelle 
de Tronoen (16th cent.). — 4 M. Plomeur, with the Chapelle Ste. Tumette. — 
Ihe Narrow-Gauge Railway (see above) makes a detour to the S via 
(4 M.) Plobannalec, (6 M.) Treffiagat, and (6 M.) Ouilvinpc fHot. de TOcean, 
K. trom 11 2, pens, from 6V2 fr.), a small port and bathing-resort. 
K-no^V^^- ^®?™"<5'^ (Pron. 'penmar'; Hdt. de St. Ou6noU), a village with 
0rU2 inhab., is the modern representative of a once flourishing town 
scattered ruins of which extend as far as (11/4 M.) the Pointe de Penmarc'h! 
Ihe discovery of Newfoundland, the inroads of the sea, war, and the 
disappearance of the cod-fish ruined this town in the 16th centurv The 
principal church is that of St. Nonna, dating from the 16th century — 
On the Pointe de Penmarc'h is the Phare d'Eckmiihl, a lighthouse 200 ft in 
/ i^^S^'lfn*®*^ ^° 1893-97, with an electric light visible to a distance of m M. 
(adm. 11-12 and 2-5). Close by is the little Hdtel du Phare-d' Eckmiihl (de'i. 
2V2, pens. 6 fr.). — 10 M. KMt.i/, with a ruined church of the 14-l5th cent 
and an old manor-house of the 15-16th, 

11 M. St Guenole ( Grand-ffdtel, dej. 3 fr. ; B6t. de Bretagne), a small 
seaport and bathing place, with a picturesque church-towe-- of the 15th cent. 
18 situated on a rocky and dangerous coast (comp. p. 2J8). ' 

From Quimper to Dodarnenez and Addiekne (Pointe du Raz), 271/2 M 
^*Ji7?^.'°J'/*"2 ^"- ^'■^^^^ * ^^- 25^ 2 fr. 55, 2 fr. 25 c). - 15 M. Douariienez 
(tiOiel de France, d6j. 21/2, pens, from 9 fr.; du Commerce, pens, from 7 fr • 
de I Europe), a town with 13,568 inhab., situated on a fine bav of the same 
f*^a;,^L^°.i™P°'"**°*«*^®°*^^ ^^ *^« sardine-fishery, '^teame'r in summer 
to (I21/2 M.) Morgat (p. 232). Stesmer to Brest, see p. 232. - The 'pardon' 
(last Sun in Aug ) of Ste. Anne-la- Palud, 7 M. to the N. of Donarnenez, 
attracts about 30,000 visitors annually. About 1/2 M. to the S. of Douarnenez 
lies Triboul (5130 inhab.), with the Plage des Sables-Blancs (Hotel, R. 2-4 
?®"n;im"- ^'■•)'. * picturesquely situated bathing resort. — The M6n^-Hom 
ip. 240) is easily ascended from Plomodiern (Breton, Plodihern), 11 M. from 



248 Route .V;. QUIMPKRLK. From Brest 

Douarnene/.; 7 M. farther to the N.E. is Locronan, the loth cent, church 
of which contains the tomb of St. Renan (16th cent.). 

At Douarnenez carriages are chant^ed for the local line to Audierne. 

24 M. P<'iit-Croix (2714 inhab.; ilot. dfs Voyatjeiirs), with a curious old 
colletilale church, Notre- Daine-de-Hoicudon (13th and 15th cent.). — 27Vv M. 
Audierne {Hot. de France, pens. S^A-OV-i fr. •, du Commerce, pens. 7-vS In, 
jio id), Breton Goazien, was once like Pcnuiarch (p. 247) an important town, 
but now contains onlv 47( G inhabitants. — 'J he Pointe du Eaz (carr. 8- 
12 Ir.; s?at in hotel-brake, 3 fr.), the westernmost point of Finistere, 9'/'^ M. 
from Audierne, commands an almost constantly wild and tempestuous sea- 
view. The onlv buildings here are a Signal Station and two J/otels {IlOlel 
du Raz-de-Sein,'A4j. or 1). 3, pens. Q'/i-lU fr., {lood; de la Pointe-du-Iiuz, 
di'j. 2V2, pens. 7-8 fr,). It is hazardous to jiroceed to the N., towards the 
Enfer de riogoff and the Baie des Tripass^s, without minute instructions 
and precautions (guide advisable-, 1 fr.). — About 6 M, to the W. of the 
point is the islet of Sein, the Sena of the ancients, once the seat of a 
Druid sanctuary and oracle. 

At Le Loch, ^^2 M. from Audierne, a road diverges from the Pointe 
du Raz road, for (1^/4 M.) ClMen and (13/4 M. farther) the Pointe de Brizellec. 
Thence we may follow the coastguards' path to the Pointe du Van, near, 
which is the ttang de Laoual, one of the sites assigned to the legendary 
city of Is, which is supposed to have been engulfed in the 5th century. 

II. rrom Quimper to Lorient and Auray. 

To Lorient, 4OV2M., Railway in I-IV2 hr. (fares 7 fr. 40 c., 5 fr., 3 fr. 

25 c). — From Lorient to Auvay, 2IV2 M. in Vz-'A br. (4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 70, 
1 fr. 76 c). 

On leaving Quimper we ascend the valley of the Jet. — 72 M. 
St. Yvi. — 77 M. liosporden (Hotel Continental, dej. or D. 2 fr., good) 
has a fine church (14-16th cent.). Branch to Carhaix, see p. 237. 

A branch-railway runs from Rosporden to (91/2 M.) Concarneau (Hotel 
des Voijageurs,- J). 3, pens, from 71/2 fr. ; Atlantic Hotel, pens, from 6 fr. ^ 
Grand-U'dtel; Hdt. des Sables- Planes, pens, from 7 fr. ; de Prance; de la Plage; 
des Bains), a town with 8(07 inhab., engaged in the sardine-fishery, and 
a good harbour, picturesquely situated on the E. side of the Bay of La 
Forest or Fouesnant. The ancient quarter of the town, the Ville- Close, 
lies upon an islet surrounded by ramparts (no adm.). dating in part 
from the 14th century. At the mouth of the harbour is an Aquarium, 
communicating directly with the sea, where large quantities of lobster, 
are reared — Concarneau is supposed to be the 'Plouvenec' of Miss How- 
ard's charming and pathetic story of Siuenn'. 'Kevin\ where Guenn 
danced at the Pardon, is probably Pont-Aven, and Les Gldnans may be 
identified with the 'Lannions'. — At Bmzec-Conq (5112 inhab.), IV4 M. to 
the ^'.E. of Concarneau, is the handsome modern Chateau de Keryoletox 
Kiolet, bequeathed with its rich furniture to the department by the Russian 
Princess Chauveau->;arischkine (d. 1893). It contains the Musie Camille 
Bernier, containing Breton landscapes, etc., by the painter of that name 
(182o-1902), besides tapestries, fayence, costumes, etc. (open daily 9-6, 
except Mon. morning-, adm. 50 c). — Steamer 4 times daily (in settled 
weather onlv) from Concarneau to fV2 hr.) Beg-Meil (Hotel des Dunes, pens, 
from Vj-z fr.'; de Beg-Meil, pens 7-12 fr.), a bathing-place on the opposite 
side of the bay. — Mail-gig daily at 4 p.m. from Concarneau to Poni- 
Aven (p. 249). 

791/2 M. Kerreit; 83 M. Bannalec; 89 M. Mdlac-le-Trevoux. [ \ 

921/2 M. Quimperle {Lion d'Or, K. 3-4, pens. 8 fr. ; du Commercf, 
pens. 71/2 I'r. ; de I' Europe, pens. 6-7 fr.), a town with 9176 inhab., | 
is charmingly situated at the confluence of the two rivers which formi 
the Laita. The more conspicuous church is that of St. Michel, datiiig 



to JSantei^. LOKIENT. 36. Route. 249 

from the 14-15tL centuries. The other, Sle. Croix, erected on the 
model of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and rebuilt 
since 1862, contains an old rood-screen (16th cent.) and a crypt of 
the 11th century. — About 1^4 M. to the N.E. of Quimperle' is the 
Chapelie de RoS(jrand, with a fine Renaissance rood-loft. 
. A narrow-gauge line runs from Quimperle to (13 M., in 55 min.) Pont- 
Aven ( im. Julia et des Voyagmrs, R. 3-5, pens. 8-10 fr. ; Gloanec, pens 5 fr 
plain but good; Pension Ker- Maria, from 5 fr.), a picturesque village to the 
S.W., inucb trequented by artists. Pretty Breton costumes. On the ri-ht 
bank of ^be impetuous^ren, with its numerous mills, is the Chdteau^du 
Hinan (ib-mxh. cent.), 2^h M. from Pont-Aven. About isA M. farther on is 

Fort-Manech, with the Plage St. Nicolas, reached by omnibus or steamer 
*!, .? ^'"^^^''3,'' ^ diligence (1 fr.) plies twice daily in summer, via 

the pretty Foret deCamoei and the Abbey of St. Maurice (13th and 17th cent.), 

to (8 M.) Le Pouldu (H6t.d<s Bains; de la Marine; Goulven), a smal 

bathing-place on the right bank of the Laita. 

Excursions may be made from Quimperle to St. Fiacre (p. 250) and 

Le Faouet (p 250), respectively 11 and 13 M. to the N. Omnibus (2 fr ) 

to the latter daily m 21/2 hrs., starting at 4 p.m.; carr. and pair 18-20 fr. 
Beyond Quimperle' the railway crosses the Ldita by a viaduct 

108 ft. high. 991/2 M. G'esfei. 

105 M. Lorient. — Hotels (variously judged). Hotel de Bketagke 
Eue Victor-Masse 10, R. from 3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from IOV2,' 
omn. /2 fr.; de l'Europe, Rue Victor-Masse 16, R. 2-3, dej. or D. 2V2 
omn. Vzfr.; DES VorAGECiis, Rue Fenelon 17, R. 2-3, B. 3/, dei 2"/!' 
D 3, pens. 7/-,, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Mqderne, Rue du Finistere 59 Le Gal 
Place A sace-Lorraine, corner of Rue St. Pierre. - Cafes. Grand-Cafi 
Co'hnental Place d'Alsace-Lorraine; others in the Rue de la Comedie.- 
oupet, at the station. 

Electric Tramways. 1. From Kerpado to La Perriire. 2. From the 
/^?ace /i«5o« to the i?«e du Poteau and Ploevieur. 3. From rhe Cour.'^ Chazelles 
to the Rue du Pont. 4. From the Place Bisson to Hennebont (p. 250) 

bleamers to Nantes and to Belle- Jle, see p 257 

British Consular Agent, B. Joubert. 

Lorient, a fortified naval and commercial port, with 46,403 
mhab., is situated on the ScorfjT, near its junction with the Blavet 
It was founded, under the name ofl'Orient, in the 17th cent, by the 
powerful Compagnie des Indes Orientales, who established their 
5hip-building yards here. When the company collapsed after the 
capture of Bengal by the British in 1753, the dockyards and works 
were purchased by the state. 

The town is well built but uninteresting. The Rue Victor-Masse 
diverging to the right from the prolongation of the Cours Chazelle' 
beyond a Statue of Jutes Simon (1814-96), by Puech (1905), leads 
;o the Place d^ Alsace- Lorraine, the principal square. The Rue des 
<ontaines, quitting the latter at its left angle, conducts us to two 
imaller squares, in one of which is the Church of St. Louis (18th 
:ent.) and in the other a bronze Statue of Bisson, a young naval lieu- 
enant who blew up his ship in 1827 to prevent its falling into the 
lands of Greek pirates. To the left of St. Louis is a small Municipal 
tft^seum (open on Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 4 or 5; on other days 
m application). The Cours de la Bove, to the right of the church 
eads to the commercial harbour (p. 250); in this promenade are a 



2bO Route 36. HKNNKBONT. From Brest 

*Statue of Victor Masse (1822-84), the composer, by Mercie, the 
Theatre, and a large Salle des Fetes. The Rue du Port leads from 
Masse's statue to the dockyard. 

For permission to visit the Dockyard, which is interesting, though 
not so important as that of Brest, application (comp. p. 231 ) should 
be made at the offloes at the end of the Place d'Armes. At the 
entrance is a Signal Tower, 125 ft. in height. There are also 
workshops at Caudan, on the left bank of the Scorff, which is crossed 
by a floating bridge. — The Commercial Harbour lies at the S. end 
of the dockyard, between the town proper and a nev/ suburb. The 
trade is chiefly connected with the requirements of the dockyard. 
— The Roadstead, beyond the two harbours, is formed by a deep 
and safe bay, 31/2 ^- loi^Si with a fortified island in the middle. 

About 11/4 M. from the S. end of the roadstead, on the other bank, 
is the small fortified town of Port-Louis (Hdtel de la Marine; Belle-Vue, 
pens. 6-7 fr.), with 3876 inhab., also of recent origin. It is frequented as 
a bathing-resort by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. Steamboats 
ply hither from Lorient every V2 hr. (20 min.; fare 25, 20 c.)- — On the 
oppo.site bank is Larmor, 3V2 M. from Lorient , a pleasure-resort, also 
visited by pilgrims (steamer in summer, 15 c). Kernivel., another bathing- 
resort, is reached by steam-launch (5 min. ; 10 c.) from La Perriere (tram- 
way, p. 2i9). — The island of Groix (Hot. Etesse), 8V2 M. from Port-Louis, 
about 4V2 M. long and I3/4 M. broad , is surrounded with cliffs pierced 
with caverns, and contains some megalithic monuments. Steamboat from 
Lorient daily in IV4 hr. (fare 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 20 c; return 2 fr. 50 c, 2 fr.). 

Feom Loriknt to Goukin, 46^ 2 M., narrow-gauge railway in ca. 3 hrs. 
(5fr. 80, 3 fr. 85 c.). — 71/2 M. Pont-Scorff. — 16 M. Plouay, junction of the 
line from Ploermel (p. 209). — 25V2 M. Meslan, junction of a branch-line 
to Pontivy via Guemen^-sur-Scorflf (p. 234). — 31 M. Le Faouet (Croix d'Or, 
R. 2-3, pens, from 5 fr.; Lion d'Or), a characteristic Breton town (3526 
inhab.) on the ElU, near which is the 15th cent. Chapelle Ste. Barbe, 
curiously perched on a rock 300 ft. above the river. About 2 M. to the 
S. is the Chapelle St. Fiacre (15th cent.), with a beautiful rood-loft of 1440 
and stained glass of the 16th century. — Near (38V2 M.) Langonnet is the 
Abbey of that name, founded in 1136, still retaining a church and a chapter- 
house of the 13th century. — 41 M. Plouray, with a church of 1666. — 
46V2 M. Gourin^ see p. 237. 1 

Beyond Lorient the Scorff is crossed. — 110 M. Hennebont 
(Hotel de France, R. 2-3, pens. 7V2-9 fr.; des Postes), a small sea- 
port with 9121 inhab., is finely situated on the Blavet, the banks 
of which afford a pleasant promenade. The Gothic church of Notre- 
Dame-de-Paradis, said to have been built by the English, dates 
from the 16th century. The relics of the old fortifications includf 
a Gothic Gateway, by which we enter the old quarter known as the 
Ville-Close, where a few quaint old timber-front houses of the 
16-17th cent, still linger. Hennebont is noted for its spirited de- 
fence by Jeanne de Montfort in 1342-45, described by Froissart. 

Tramway from Hennebont to Lorient, see p. 249. — The left bank 
the Blavet affords pleasant promenades. Downstream the river is spannet 
by the bold Suspension Bridge of Le Bonhomme. Above Hennebont liei 
Inzinzac (4868 inhab.), with iron-works. 

The railway crosses the Blavet by a viaduct 80 ft. high. — [ 
118 M. Landevant — To the left appears the Etang du Cranio; t(; 
the right, farther on, the Chartreuse (p. 251). |i 



to Nanle.^. VANNED. 36. Route. 251 

I26V2 M. Auray (Lion d'Or et de la Poste, R.2'/2-5, D. 31/2, pens. 
9-10 fr., well spoken of; du Pavilion, R. 21/2-4, D. 3 fr.; Hot-Rest, 
de la Qare, unpretending; Buffet at the station), a picturesque town 
of 6665 inhab., with a small harbour on the Loch^ lies about IV4 M. 
to the S.E. of the station. In the Place de la Mairie and in the vicinity 
of the 15-16th cent, church of St. Goustan [on the opposite bank of 
the river) are several interesting old houses. Aiiray forms excellent 
headquarters for excursions (see p. 256). It is also one of the leading 
centres of the oyster-culture in France. The battle of Auray, fought 
in 1364 between Charles of Blois and John of Montfort, resulted in 
the defeat and death of the former. 

A little to the N.W. of the station is the interesting Chartreuse d' Auray 
now an institution for deaf-mutes. Adjoining the church is a Sepulchral Chapel 
(visitors admitted) erected in 1823-29 in memory of 952 'Emigres' captured 
at Quiberon in 1795 (see p. 256) and put to death in this neighbourhood on 
the spot now marked by a Chapelle Expiatoire. — A picturesque walk may 
be taken hence to (3 M.) Ste. Anne-d'Auray (see below) 

Railway to St. Brieuc via Pontivy, see R. 32. — To Quiberon, Plou- 
harnel, Carnac, and Locmariaquer, see R. 37. — A weekly steamer plies 
from Auray to Belle-lie (p. 256) 5 fares 21/2, 2 fr. 

III. From Auray to Vannes and Nantes. 
To Vannet, 12 M., Railway in i/s-'/z hr. (fares 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c, 1 fr ) 
From Vannes to (831/2 M.) Nardes in 21/2-4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 15, 5 fr 55 3 Ir 
bD c). — For Plouharnel, Carnac, etc., see p. 255. 

Auray, see above. — 128 M. Ste. Anne. About i^/^ M. to the N. 
is Ste. Anne-d' Auray (omn. 25-50 c; Hotel de France; Lion d'Or), 
one of the most frequented pilgrim-resorts in Brittany, where numer- 
ous interesting and distinctive costumes may be seen, especially in 
Whitsun-Week and on July 26th (St. Anne's Day). The handsome 
n QTQ^' ^^*^ ^ ^^"^^^ surmounted by a figure of the saint, is modern 
(1873). Opposite is a Scala Sancta, which the pilgrims ascend on 
their knees. At the end of the village, on the Auray road is a 
Monument to the Comte de Chambord (1820-83). 

I38V2 M. Vannes.— Hotels. Hot. du Commerce et de l'Ep£e (PI a) 
Rue du Mend 2 R from 3, D 31/2, pens, from 11, omn. 1/2 fr. ; ^Hostelleri^ 
DU Dauphin (PI b), Place de rHotel-de-Ville, R. from 21/2, D. 3. omn 
V2 ir.; Hot. de France (PI. c), Rue Billault 1, R. from 21/4, D. 3 fr. : de Bre- 
TAGNE, Rue du Mene. - Cafes. Du Commerce, Rue du Mene: dePtTnivers 
Place de THotel-de-Ville. - Cabs. Per drive's/,, p,^ t,. ii/;^^, -1 steam- 
InTcrl-L^-^f 7- ^°!*«^ Telegraph Office (p'. 252), Place de la Halle- 
aux-Cxrains. — Syndtcat d Initiative du MorUhan Place de rAncienne-MairJe. 

Vannes, with 23,561 inhab., the capital of the department of 
Morbihan, is situated on a stream named after it, about 3 M from 
the Gulf of Morbihan (p. 262). It has a small harbour. 

Vannes was the chief town of the Veneti, a seafaring people, who<:e 
,J/*r -'* ^""f -^^'PmV ^'l^'^PP^^ ^'^^ chain-cables and leathern sails, 
used to visit Britain. They were the most implacable foes of the Romans 

S fh7h "t'* ^'n S^: ?^^' ^^^^- ^*°°«^^ f«'°^«^^y P'*y«<i ^ conspicuous par 
in the history of Brittany; now it has sunk into insignificance. 

Turning to the right at the station, which is i/-^ M. from the 
town, and farther on following the Avenue Victor-Hugo (to the left) 



252 Route lie. VANNKS. From Brest 

and tho Rue du Meiie (to the right), we reach the Place do I'Hotel- 
de-Ville, embellished in 1905 with an equestrian statue of the - 
Connetable Arthur de Richernont ( 1398-14r)8). by Le Ihw. In this 
Place arc tho HOteL de Ville (188G; small Muse'e) and the College 
Jules-Simon (rebuilt in 1886), with a chapel of the 17th century. 

The CaViedral of St. Pierre, which we reach by the Rue de 
rilotel-de-Ville, dates from the 13th and the 15-18th cent, and 
has a larjie W. portal (rebuilt in 18?!')) Panked by towers of unequal 
height. The apsidal chapel is dedicated to the S])anish Dominican, 
St. Vincent Ferrier, born at Valentia in 1357, who died at Vanncs 
in 1419. His tomb is in the N. transept. 

The quarter around the cathedral contains many quaint and 
picturesque Old Houses; e.g. Rue St. Salomon 10 (dating from 
1556), 13, and 18 (1570); Rue des Halles 3. 9, 23, and 25; and 
Rue des Chanoines 1, 3, 30, and 32. The last-named street leads 
to the Porte Prison or Porte St. Patern, a survival of the old forti- 
fications. To the right is the large modern Prefecture, from a street 
before which we have a good viev.- of the City Walls of the 14-17th 
cent., the principal relic being the Tour du Connetable (14th cent.), 
so named because the Conne'table de Clisson was confined here in 
1387 by the Duke of Brittany, just as the former was on the point 
of making a descent upon England on behalf of Charles VI. of France. 
On the opposite side, behind the park of the Pre'fecture, is the 
Promenade^de la Garenne. 

The first bridge to the right leads to the Place des Lices, No. 8 
in which contains an Archaeological Museum (50c.) and a Museum 
of Natural History (open Sun. 12-3). 

The Rue St. Vincent leads thence to the Harbour. To the right 

is the Promenade de la Rabine, with a monument to Le Sage (see 

p. 253). The Rue du Port, with a quaint old house (No. 2 ; 16th cent.), 

and the Rue Thiers skirt the other side of the old town. The Corn 

Market, the Palais de Justice, and the Post Office stand in a large 

square to the left. The Rue Thiers ends at the Place de IHotel-de- 

Ville. 

The Morbihan ('Little Sea'), to the S. of Vannes, is a bay or gulf, G M. 
long and 11 M. broad, almost landlocked by the Peninsulas of Rhuis (S.E.) 
and Locmariaquer (N.W. ; p. 256), between the extremities of whicli is a chan- 
nel only 1/2 M. wide. Tlie gulf has a flat and very irregular coast-lines 
and is studded with numerous fertile islets. — Stkamees ply three time, 
daily in summer (once in winter) from the harbour of Vannes to Conleau, 
the He aux Moines, Port-Navalo, and Locmariaquer (fares 25 c, 70 c, IV4, 
and 2fr. ; return-fares 1/2, 1, 2, and 21/2 fr). After touching at the/Ze Con- 
leau (Hot. du Beau-Se'jour), a bathiDg-resort, on the right, which is con- 
nected with the mainland by a causeway, the steamer passes the Jle de 
Boedic and calls at the Jle d'Arz. Beyond a broad expanse we perceive 
on the left the towers of Sarzeau and St. Gildas (p. 253) Skirting the 
coast of Arradon, and passing the islets of Logoden and Irus, we stop 
at the He aux Moines (two hotels). The steamer steers across the open 
bav and between Creizic and Berder to Larmor-Baden (Hot. des lies, R. 2-4, 
D."3fr.), whence a small boat (50c.) may be taken to the lie de GavrHnis 
('goat island'^ with a fine tumulus and dolmen). The steamer next passes 



to Nanus. REDON. 36. Route 253 

the Jledela Jumeni and the He Longue, and after rounding the Mouton Rock 
stops at Port-Navalo (Hot. des Voyageurs, plain; de Rhuis), a smalUishin' 
village near the extremity of the Peninsula of Rhuis. We then traverse 
L"f m""^ channel and reach Locmariaquer (p. 256). - About 1/2 M from 
Port-Navalo lies the village of Arzon, beyond which is the hamlet S 
Thumtac, with a large tumulus. Le Logic and Keraer, or Kerni, to the N 
of these places are touched at by the steamer twice a week only In 
Tocmariacru'r? ^'^ '""' '" ^''"*^" '"^*^"* «^ ^« Port-Nav'alo'' and 
From Vannes to (I31/2 M.) Sarzeau ano (171/2 M.) St. Gildas (Peninsula 
o/iZ/... mail-gig thrice daily, .starting from the Place S. Nicolas (Sres 

via (51/2 M.) i\^oj^a/o. Carr. with one horse 15 fr., two horses 20-25 fr 
Railway from Vannes to Port-Navalo under construction. -Sarzeau (^Jli 
Le Sage: ^W mhab ) near the centre of the peninsula, is the bShplace 
of Le Sage (1668-1747), author of 'Gil Bias'. About 2V2 M to the S F I't 
the Oh&tean de Sucinio, the summer-residence of the duk'e of Brftfany 
in^ft • '<f, '«;i^*V'^l-' ^^* P^^"y ''^^'^"t in the 15th (adm. 25 c ) On Sie 
coast ,s St. GMas-de-Rhuis (Hot. Gicquel), with an old abbev-church and 
* K M*V ^^ man-gig goes on from Sarzeau to Arzon (see above) 

13/. h?'T3Tr'30''2'?r'^20c'?'"Tf""'"^'' ^'•''•' --"«-gau,e railwiy in 
Vs. ^-.u V: ^^^•/^^■) The scenery is uninteresting. — I31/2 M 
Ambon, with salt-mar.hes, lies 21/2 M. to the N. of the little bathing-resort 

S^M ?o t?; W Tf tT'" PO'-ts^Jif respectively 13/, M. ti the E. and 
^V2 M. to the W. of Damgan. — 171/2 M. MuziUnc (Hot. Herve) 13/, m tn 

ent''-abbev'''At"r25';'M^^-^'''^ '' ^^'^T^ (H6t. Nicolas') .^itJ^l'^lSh 
cent, abbey. At (25'/2 M.) Marzan is a chateau of the 16th centurv — 

L aboufrmTleTo'r^\r'';?' F.,«^5«-*^, a small town and harbour, 
'iSfrh^^h? ^vpr IZ -^Y '^^*"'° ^^'^ ^' ^«*''^«<i ^y ^ Suspension Bridge 
hin/i\ ?^ ^ • , t^e picturesque estuary of the Vilaine. A diligence nlies 
hence twice daily to (13V2 M.) PontcMieau (p. 254) via m^M) MZiUac 
\lll v"' '^^''*"r "^ ^^ Bretesche (1471; restored in the 19^ cent V 
■2frf5lTr^Tc /%;?''''•'' T''. ^I" --"ow-gauge railway in H/'hr. 
Veturn'farls'qfr-^'fi^ T'^r ^^'^o'^^',^"" fp. 209) via Locmine=, 4OV2 M. 
i7to 3 M to th^^ ^^'i 7,^^ ^^- ^<'«'-^«-^'"^, station fo'r ff^;^rf- 

1451/2 M. Elven T)^% village of that name (Lion d'Or)Iies 31/2 M. to 
r ^/f.T^P^ -•^- ^^'^* ^ V4 M. to the S.W. is the ruined castle of 
Largoet ( 13th & loth cent.}, with two towers (65 ft. and 130 ft. higlO 
.f P^mbry. w^'^r.^ (afterwards Henry VII.) and his uncle, the Eari 

eSurviLll?! wL^'V^" '"'?i ^^ '^^'' ^''^^' '^'^' the' battle of 
LcwKesDury in 1471, were imprisoned here by the Duke of Brittanv Henrv 

emainedhere nearly fifteen years before he'effected his efcapetV France 

, ^"^^'hM La Vraie- Croix. - 154 M. Questembert (Hot. du 

commerce), I3/4 M. from the station, has an interesting Calvary and 

everal old chapels and houses. 

n P^ ..^"^f^°ce plies hence to (11 M.) Muzillac (see above). - Railwav 
Ploermel (La Brohiniere), see R. 29 b. «.auway 

l^>om (161 1/2 M.)Malansac a diligence (50 c. ; not connecting with 
n trains) phes to (3 M.) the interesting old town of Rochefort-en- 
lerre (Hot. Lecadre), near the Valley of the Arz and the Landes 
eLanvaux, both frequented by artists. —Beyond (167 M.)^<.Jacwf 
he 0M5i, a tributary of the Vilaine, and the the canal from Brest 
JNantes are crossed. 

. ^^'^^-^^l^J'''(^^/ret,%ood', Hotel de France ; de la PosteL a 
own with 66bl inhab., is situated on the Vilaine and on the canal 



254 Route 36. SAVENAY. 

between Brest and Nantes. The interesting old Church of St.Sauveur 
(^12-14th cent.), near the railway, to the left, has a central tower 
of the 12th, and a detached W. tower of the 14th century. 

From Redon to Chdteauhriant^ see p. 269; to Rennes, see pp. 209, 208. 

The railway crosses the Vilaine and skirts the Brest and Nantes 
canal, which it crosses before (180 M.) Severac. — 1 891/2 M. Pont- 
chdteau^ the junction of a line to St. Nazaire (see p. 269). Diligence 
to La Roche-Bernard, see p. 253. — 198 M. Savenay (Buffet; Hot. 
de Bretagne; Chene-Verte), junction for St. Nazaire, see p. 266. 
In 1793 the Vendeans were defeated here by Kleber and Marceau. — 
208 M. St. Etienne-de-Montluc ; 213 M. Coueron^ with large glass- 
works and an establishment working in argentiferous lead. 

216 M. Basse-Indre is the station also for Jndret^ with its ex- 
tensive marine-engine works, on an island to the left. The railway 
skirts the Loire. — 219 M. Chantenay-sur-Loire (21,671 inhab.), 
connected with Nantes by tramway. Fine view of Nantes harbour 
to the right. 22U/2 M. La Bourse. The train crosses the town before 
reaching the station of — 

222 M. Nantes (p. 257). 



37. From Auray to Cluiberon. Plouharnel. Carnac. 
Locmariaquer. 

Railway to Quiberon, iV/2 M., in ^/i-V/s hr. (fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 
40 c); to Plouharnel, by the same line, 8V2 M. — Plouharnel is connected 
by Steam TramWat with Erdeven and (6 M.) Etel^ on the W., and with Carnac 
and (6 M.) La TriniU, on the E.; and this tramway will be found convenient 
for visiting the chief megalithic monuments. Fare from Plouharnel to Etel 
or to La Trinitd, 90, 7U c, to Erdeven 60, 35 c, to Carnac 40, 30 c. — From 
La Trinite a carriage (about 5 fr.) may be hired to (572 M.) Locmariaquer, 
see p. 256. — Carnac and its famous 'Lines' may also be visited by carriage 
from Auray (10-12 fr.) in half-a-day. — A 'courrier' (IV2 fr.) plies twice a 
day from Auray in IV2 hr. to (8V2 M.) Locmariaquer, which may also be 
reached direct from Auray by sailing-boat in about 2 hrs. (10 M.; 18-20 fr.). 

The * Megalithic Monuments which abound in this region are pro- 
foundly interesting, although sometimes, from their situation in the midst 
of vast moors that dwarf their dimensions, they may seem at first view 
disappointing. The origin and object of these prehistoric monuments 
are alike obscure. — Menhirs (men = stcme, hir = long) are standing 
stones, usually erected on their smaller ends and varying from 6 to 30 ft. 
in height. They are also sometimes called Peulvans (peul = pillar, van = 
stone) in Brittany and Laderes, Pierres Fiches, or Pierres Fittes in other parts 
of France. Alignements are lines or rows of menhirs. Dolmens (dol = table, 
men = stone) are structures of upright stones supporting one or more hori- 
zontal capstones, thus forming rude chambers, which are the megalithic 
framework of chambered cairns denuded of the covering mound of earth. 
A series of adjacent dolmens is an AlUe Couverte. Cromlech (crom = curved, 
lech = stone), which in English is a disused synonym for dolmen, means 
in France a stone circle, frequently with a larger stone in the centre, called 
a Birmensul ('long stone of the sun'). A Pierre Branlante is a block balanced 
upon another. A Qalgal or Tumulus is a sepulchral mound. 

Auray, see p. 251. — 41/2 M. Belz-Ploemel. — Before the next 
station we see the Menhirs du Vieux-Moulin to the right. 



CARNAC. 37. Route. 255 

8V2 M. Plouharnel-Carnac. The village of Plouharnel (Hot. du 
Commerce), about 1/2 M. to the S.E. of the railway station, is on the 
steam-tramway from Etel to La Trinite (see p. 254). Like Carnac, 
it is surrounded by Ancient Stone Monuments, most of which lie to 
the N. of the village, scattered on either side of the railway. The 
nearest is the Dolmen de Rondossec, to the right of the road leading 
to the village. In the neighbourhood are also the Dolmen de Kergav at, 
to the left of the road to Carnac, and the Dolmen of Runesto and 
the Dolmens of Mani-Kerioned a little to the N.E., to the left and 
right respectively of the road to Auray. — Continuation of the railway 
to Quiberon, see p. 256. 

Steam Tramway from Plouharnel to Etel (see p. 254). Im- 
mediately to the right of the tramway, beyond the railway, are the 
Menhirs du Vieux-Moulin, and at (1 1/4 M.) Crucuno, the first station, 
IS the large Dolmen of that name. Near [3 M.) Erdeven are the Lines 
of Erdeven, consisting of 1030 menhirs resembling those at Carnac 
(see below). — 6 M. Etel (Hot. du Commerce ; Moderne) is a small 
fishing-village. 

Steam Tramway from Plouharnel to La Trinite (see p. 254). 
— V2 M. Plouharnel, the village (see above). — 21/2 M. Carnac- 
Bourg (Hot. des Voyageurs, dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 5-6 fr., plain but 
good; de la Marine, dej. 2, D. 21/4, pens. 5-6 fr.), a village about 
a mile from the sea, on which it has a little harbour. — 33/4 M. 
CarnaC'Plage (Grand-Hotel, open in summer, R. from 21/2, pens, 
from 6 fr., well spoken of), with a good beach. 

Carnac (3156 inhab.) is even more celebrated than Plouharnel for 
Its ancient remains. The 17th cent, church, dedicated to St. Comely, 
patron of horned cattle, has a curious porch on the N. side and a 
remarkable painted ceiling. 

rptfu?^ '?'''"*^S' ^*^""i ^^P.- ^^*^^ ^^ mteresting. The peasants bring their 
cattle to place them under the protection of the saint, with various super- 
hvIn^L" ' *l° P'«sent^ gifts in kind to his altar. These gifts are sold 
by auction on the spot and are consumed in feasts which finally degenerate 
considerably from a religious character. aegeneraie 

We foUow the Locmariaquer road, to the left of the church, and 
presently reach the Museum (50 c), to the right, which owes its origin 
to Mr. Miln (d. 1881), a Scottish antiquary, who made important 
excavations and discoveries in this neighbourhood. Farther on, to the 
left, rises the Mont St. Michel, a 'galgal' or tumulus, 65 ft. high and 
^bU ft. m diameter, consisting chiefly of blocks of stone heaped up 
over a dolmen. Fine view from the top, including the 'Lines'. 

The famous *Alignements of Carnac, situated about V2 M. to the 
N. of the village, near the road to Auray, consist of three principal 
groups of respectively 874, 855, and 262 standing-stones (there are 
said to have been originaUy 12-15,000), arranged on a moor in 
the form of a quincunx, and forming 13 avenues. Some of these 
stones are fully 16 ft. high, and some are estimated to weigh at least 



256 Route 37. QUIBERON. 

40-50 tons. The largest are in theKerlescan group, beyond a farm on 
the right. About 1 M. to tJie K. of Carnac is a piece of moorland named - 
the Bos^enno or Boceno [bocenieu = mounds) , where Mr. Miln's ex- 
cavations brought to light what is believed tobeaGallo-Romantown. 

6 M. La Trlnite-sur-Mer (Hot. de I'Oceanj Terminus) is a small 
seaport, vdth oyster-beds and a good beach. 

The Road to Locmariaquer (carr. , p. '264) crosses the river 
Crack by a (^/i M.) bridge and enters the Peninsula of Locmariaquer, 
which bounds the Morbihan on the N.W. (see p. 252). 

5'/2 M- Locmariaquer (Hotel Lautram), a small seaport on the 
Morbihan, has in its neighbourhood perhaps the most remarkable 
megalithic monuments in France. The chief of these are the Mane- 
Lud, a dolmen of unusual size, the interior of which should be in- 
spected; the Men-er-Hroeck ('stone of the fairy'), a menhir origin- 
ally nearly 70 ft. high, now overthrown and broken; and the two 
dolmens known as the Dol-ar-Marchadourien ('merchants' table') 
and the Mane-Rutual. All these are passed on the way from Carnac 
to Locmariaquer. Beyond the village is the Mane-er- Hroeck, a 
tumulus with a cavern (key at the Mairie, 50 c. ; candle necessary), etc. 
Various Roman antiquities also have been discovered at Locmaria- 
quer. — Beyond Locmariaquer is Kerpenhir, with its little beach. 

The He de Qavr'tnis (p. 252: 21/2 M.) may be visited hence by boat. 

'Courrier' to Auray, see p. 254; steamboat to Vannes and Port-Navalo, 
see p. 252. ^^________ 

Railway to Quiberon (continued). — Beyond Plouharnel-Carnae 
the railway runs along the Peninsula of Quiberon, 6 M. long, the 
narrowest part of which is defended by Fort Penthitvre. At (14 M.) 
St. Pierre are several groups of menhirs and dolmens. 

171/2 M. Quiberon {^Hotel Penthievre et de la Plage; de France, R. 
2-3, D.^3 fr.), a town with 3454 inhab. and a small sea-bathing 
establishment, is situated near the extremity of the peninsula. About 
6000 French 'Emigre's' landed here in 1795 under the protection 
of the guns of the British fleet, but were met and defeated by 
the Republican forces under Hoche. Some 1800 escaped to the British 
ships; the rest died on the field or were put to death afterwards. 

Good anchorage may be obtained in the Bay of Quiberon. The 
harbour of Quiberon is at Port-Maria, where there are also sardine- 
curing factories. Port-Haliguen lies about 2/4 M, distant, on the E. 

coast of the peninsula. 

A steamboat leaves Port-Maria or Port-Haliguen (according to the 
weather) twice or thrice a day in summer for *Belle-Ile-en-Mer (lU M., m 
3/4-1 hr.: fares 2, IV2 fr. ; return, valid for 4 days, 3, 2 fr ), the largest 
island belonging to Brittany, 11 M. long and 21/2-6 M. broad The chief town 
is Le Palais (Hotel du Commerce; de Bretagne)^ with 4949 inhab. and a douDie 
line of fortification, one modern and one dating from the 16-l7th centuries. 
The inhabitants are engaged in the sardine-fishery and in the preparation 
of potted fish. There is also a reformatory on the island. Mme. baran 
Bernardt has a villa here, in an ancient fort. The coast is in many places 
picturesque, wilh remarkable grottoes; the most interesting spots may De 




Grave et imprime par 



Rmitf JrVoimes 




^a jner l Sebes Iieipzig 



NANTES. 38. Route. 257 

visited in one day by carriage (8-12 fr.); viz. Sauzon or Port-Philippe (Hot. 
(iu Phare), and the Pointe des Poulains, 41/4 and 6 M. to the N.W. • the Orotle 
\de VApothicairerie (23/4 M. ; hotel in summer), difficult to find and not easily 
entered: the Mer Sauvage; the Baie de Colon and the Lighthouse on the W. 
coast, P/2r5^/2 M. from Le Palais. 

From Belle-Ile to Auray, see p. 251 ; to Le Croiiic, Le PouUguen, and 
St. Nazatre, see p. 266 ; to Jfantes and Lorient, see below. 

38. Nantes. 

Railway Stations. The Gare d'Orliant (PI. G, 4; buffet), the prin- 
cipal station, lies to the E. of the town. — The Gare de la Bourse (PI D 3) 
on the prolongation of the Orleans line in the direction of Brest, lies 
Qearer the centre of the town, but tickets cannot be obtained here nor 
I uggage registered, except for the line to St. Nazaire, Gu^rande, and Le 
jLroisic, and for the Brest line to Redon. — The Gare Maritime (PI. A, 
B, d), tarther on on the same line, is used only by goods-trains. — The 
aarederEtat(V\ C, D,5; buffet), to the S., is for the Chemin de Fer de 
I Elat, which IS, however, connected with the Gared'OrMans by a iunction- 
line, and for the Segr^ line of the Chemin de Fer de lOuest 

• !,^- ^^^'f-^'^.'"'^^'' J"^ France (PI. a; D, 3), Place Graslin, R. 
rom 4, B. I1/2, de, 4, D. 5 pens, from 121/2, omn. 3/, f^., first-class; 

doT. DE Beetagne (PI. b; F,3), Rue de Strasbourg 23, pens, from 10 fr. 

Hot. des Voyageuks (PL c; D, 3), Rue Moliere 2, R. 3-8, B. 11/4, dei. 3 
J. 4 pens, from 10, omn. 3/4 fr., du Commerce et des Colonies (PI. d; 
J, 6)^ Kue Santeuil 12, R. from 3, omn. ^U fr. ; de Paris fPl f- D .^1 
iueBoileau 2, R from'2V., B. 1, d^j. 3, D. S/^, pens froSer^Jmn. 3A'fr. ' 
)E LA Duchesse-Anne (PI. e; F, 3), Place Duchesse-Anne, R. 2V2-5, dei. 3, 
). dV2 fr.; DES Trois-Marchands, Rue d'Erdre 26 (PI. E, 2), commercial 
3H0LET (hotel meuble), Rue Gresset 10 (PJ. C, 3). ' 

Restaurants at the hotels mentioned above. Also, Privot, Place Graslin ; 
i/awtce, P ace du Commerce ; Mauduit et Fink, Rue Crebillon 5 ; Cambronnel 

lace Graslm. ' 

C&fes. Caf 4 ae France, de la Cigale, de VUnivers, Grand-Cafe, Place 
rraslin; (Z OrUans, Continental, Place Royale; du Commerce, Place du Com- 
aerce (Bourse). 

M ?n\Vo ^Vm?°? horse, per 'course' IV2 fr., per hr. 2 fr.; at night 

w«? ^^°*^- ^'l ^""-A ^^^^ *'^^ ^«"«3' 2, 21/2, and 3 fr. ; trunk 25 c. 

motor Taximeter Cabs (Taxautos), for 2 pers. ; 1200 metres (ca. 3/4 M ) 

5 c each. »ddit 400 metres 20 c.; waiting 20 c. per 5 min. ; trunk 25 c. 

iramways (driven by compressed air). From Doulon (comp. PI. G, 4) 

) the P^«ce Charles -Monselet (PI. D, 1); to Longchamp (comp. PI. F !)• 

rom the Place du Commerce {VL D, 3) to the Gare de V Etal (PI. C, 5); from 

om^^i ?^^^r'/^^- ?' 1^ ^"^ Chantenay (comp. PI. A, 4); to La Chesnale 

fZf/f }.' '^J' A ^^o"? ^^ (^^oissant (comp. PI. G, 2) to the Place Charles- 

fchat (comp. PI A, 3); to the Station de iSL Joseph (comp. PI. G, 2); from 

mnes-Ceinture (comp. PI. F, 1) to Pont- Rousseau (comp PI. D, 5): from 

annes-Cemture (comp PI. E, 1) to the Lion-d^Or and to Wre/ (comp. 

Lr ''' ^^^^ ^^ ^- ^^^ ^°®' ^^ <^- for two, and 20 c. for three or four 

ou?.*<f r^^n *Q. ^1^ r" i^^ y?ar round from the Quai de la Fosse, near the 

Srn If ?A^l^n*^^^'-^'"''''''^^^^-)' ««^«^al *^°^«« a "lay (fares 85, 60c., 

dr. rn o;^*A' ?? '• • ^°. St i^c,zai^'e (35V2 M. ; p. 266), touching at Basse-' 

9fi's/'^-t>^^t^' p^^^'-O'^ (P- 254), Le Pellerin, Le Migron, and'Paimboeuf 

• ^bO); the boats start at 8 a.m. (returning in the afternoon) and perform 
le journey in 3-4 hrs., according to the tide (fares to St. Nazaire, 2V2, 
/2tr.; return-ticket available by railway in one direction 5, 4, 23/. fr.) 

m-r.7n qIq. rj*^- - ^^^ ^^'^^y cargo-boats to Belle-Ile p.'256) and 
ortent (p 249) take passengers also (fares 7 or 5 and 8 or 6 fr ) 

. laR^nT: ^''%f'^^1:''l ^^- !>' 3; p. 259), Place Graslin; ThMtre 
i la Renaxssance (PI. D, 1, 2), Place Edouard-lformand. 

Raedkker's Northern Franco. 5th Edit. ^7 



258 Route 3-9. NANTES. History. 

Post & Telegraph Office, Quai Brancaa (PI. E, 3), entered from the 
Rue du Conedic and Rue Laperouse. 

Baths. Bains du Calvaire, Rue du Calvaire 8j de Strasbourg, Quai 
du Pont - Maillard 11; Nantais, Quai Duguay-Trouin 12 bis (on the He 
Feydeau). River Baths in the Loire, between the He Feydeau and lie 
Gloriette. 

Banks. Banque de France (Pi. D, 2), Comptoire d^Escompte, Rue 
Lafayette 14 and 8; Cridit Lyonnais, Rue Boileau 4; SociHi Oen^rale, Place 
Royale 8. 

British Consulate, Quai Duguay-Trouin 16 5 vice-consul, Alf. Trillot. — 
American Consulate, Rue Roziex^ 28; consul, Louis Qoldschmidl ; vice- 
consul, Hiram D. Bennett. 

English Church Service at Rue de rHcrroniere 8. 

Nantes, the capital of the department of the Loire- In ferieure, 
the headquarters of the 11th army corps and the seat of a bishop, 
is a town with 133,247 inhab., situated mainly on the right bank of 
the Loire. The river ramifies here into six arms and receives the 
waters of the Erdre and the Sevre-Nantaise, the latter flowing into 
it to the S., beyond the islands, the former coming from the N. and 
traversing the town before its confluence. The commerce and in- 
dustry of Nantes have long rendered it one of the most flourishing 
towns in France. Its harbour has latterly lost much of its im- 
portance, the approach to it being too narrow for the large ships of 
modern times, but sinoe the opening of a maritime canal ca. 9 M. 
long in 1892 the port has been more frequented. Sugar forms the 
principal article of commerce in Nantes, and the town contains 
several large refineries. Tobacco, sardines, and preserved meats 
of all kinds are also among the chief industrial products, and the I 
outskirts of the town are thickly sprinkled with Jron-works, ship- ! 
building yards, and factories. 

Nantes was founded anterior to the Roman conquest, but its history, h 
until the end of the 15th cent., may be summed up in the record of its 
struggles with the Romans, the IS'^ormans, the English, and the French in 
defence of its own independence and the independence of Brittany. The 
famous Edict of Nantes., issued by Henri IV in 1598, granted the Pro- 
testants liberty of worship and equal political rights with the Roman 
Catholics. Nantes was favourable from the very beginning to the cause 
of the Revolution, and victoriously resisted the Vendeans in 1793; but 
nevertheless the Comite du Salut Public ,sent the ferocious Carrier hither 
to suppress the rebellion. This monster, iSnding that the executioner's 
axe and the fusillading of hundreds at a time were too inexpeditious 
modes of accomplishing his cruel commands, invented the Noyades, or 
'Drownings en masse', which were eflfected by scuttling barges full of 
prisoners. 

Nantes is nowadays a handsome modern town, but the absence 
of main thoroughfares makes it difficult for the stranger to find 
his way. Its most characteristic features are the numerous bridges 
over the different arms of the Loire and the Erdre, the harbour, 
and the fine houses of the 18th cent., which line the quays. There 
are, however, comparatively few buildings of interest. 

The railway from Orleans is prolonged along the quays on its 
way to Brittany (R. 36). Near the station, to the right, is the Place 
Duchesse-Anne [PI. F, 3), where the Cours St. Pierre (p. 262) and the 



Nat. Hist. Museum. NANTES. 38. Route. 259 

new street described at p. 261 begin. On the flight of steps ascending 
to the Cours is the Monument Pour le Drapeau ('for the flag'), a bronze- 
group by G. Bareau, erected in 1897 in memory of 1870-71. 

On one side of the Place rises the Castle (PI. F, 3), which was 

founded in the 10th cent., reconstructed in 1466, and altered and 

enlarged in the 16th century. It had formerly seven towers, but one 

of them, which was used as a powder-magazine, was blown up in 

1800. On application to the concierge visitors may enter the inter- 

I esting court-yard, where we may notice the Orand Logis, a Renais- 

I sance edifice, and the Donjon or Keep, 130 ft. high, which have 

I both been restored. There is a fine Salle des Gardes and a large 

Well (12th cent.), with an iron coping (15th cent.). 
I The castle was long used as a state-prison, and Card, de Retz fl654) 
I Fouquet, and the Duchess of Berri (1832), mother of the Comte de Cham- 
j bord, were confined here. The last was arrested in No. 3 Rue Mathelin- 
iRodier (behind the castle; visitors admitted), after lying concealed for the 
I best part ot a day in a small recess behind a chimney on the third floor. 
I We continue to follow the quays, passing the end of the Rue 
I de Strasbourg (p. 261), and cross the canalized Erdre at its junction 
[with the Loire. Farther on are the Place du Commerce and the 
I Exchange (PI. D, 3), built in 1792-1812. In the Place de la Bourse 
I is a statue of Colonel de Villehois-Mareuil (p. 269), by R. Verlet. 
To the left is the little He Feydeau. We next reach the Oare de 
la Bourse (PI. D, 3; see p. 257) and the Quai de la Fosse, skirting 
the harbour. Nos. 5 (Maison des Tourelles, 16th cent.) and 17 (of 
1742, restored in 1874) here should be noticed as well as several 
other 18th cent, houses. 

The Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau (PI. D, 3) , which leaves the 
quay between the Exchange and the Gare de la Bourse , leads to 
the Place Graslin (PI. D, 3), the centre of the town. In it stands 
the Orand- Thedtre, buUt in 1788, but several times restored since 
then, with a Corinthian colonnade surmounted by the figures of 
eight Muses. The vestibule contains statues of Corneille and Moliere 
by Molknecht and the auditorium has a fine ceiling-painting. 

To the S.W. of the Place Graslin extends the Cours de la Re- 
publique or Cambronne (PI. C, D, 3), a promenade embeUished with 
a bronze statue of General Cambronne (1770-1842), a native of the 
environs of Nantes, erected in 1848. On the pedestal is inscribed the 
mswerheissaidto have given at Waterloo: 'The guard dies, but never 
surrenders'. The statue was executed by Jean Debay, a native artist. 

I'Pi nl^^^ *^ *^® ^' ^^ *^® ^^"^^ Cambronne, in the Rue Voltaire 
n. C, d), stands the Ecole Pre'paratoire des Sciences et des Lettres 
erected in 1821, and used first as a mint and then as a court of 
lustice. Its handsome facade, in the classical style, with a sculptured 
pediment, is turned towards the Place de la Monnaie. Besides 
Je law-courts it now contains an important Museum of Natural 
aistory (PI. C, 3), open to the public on Sun., Tues., Thurs., and 
lohdays, 12-4 (concierge. Rue Athenas). 

17* 



260 Route 38. NANTES. Mmee Dohree. 

The entrance to the museum is in the Place de la Monnaie. — On the 
Gkodnd Flook are a large gallery and hall devoted to Geology, Mineralogy^ 
and Palaeontology. There are descriptive labels affixed to the various 
objects. — On the First Floor is the Zoological Collection. In a glass- 
case to the left of the entrance, between two mummies, is the tanned 
skin of a soldier, killed by the Vendeans in 1793, who requested his 
comrades to have a drum made of his skin, so that he might continue to 
be a terror to those 'brigands de royalistes' after his death. His wish 
has been only half realised. The collection of fishes is very complete. In 
the upper galleries ara birds, insects, corals, madrepores, and Crustacea. 
The side-rooms contain a good herbarium, specimens of wood, etc. 

A little farther on is the Musee Dobr^e (PI. C, 3), erected in 
the style of the 13th cent, from plans of Viollet-le-Duc , and 
presented to the department in 1894 (open Sun. & Thurs. 12-4, 
other days also on application). 

The groundfloor is occupied by the ethnographical and archeeological 
sections : prehistoric and Gallo-Roman antiquities, sculptures taken from 
churches, coins, enamels, armour, etc. — On the first floor are paintings, 
furniture, porcelain, enamels, and miniatures. The cabinet adjoining the 
5th room contains autographs of Anne of Brittany, Marie Antoinette, 
Napoleon I., etc. 

In a garden in front of the Musee Dobre'e is the Manoir de Jean V 
(15th cent., restored in 1890). — The Rue de Flandre leads from 
the W. end of the Rue Voltaire to the Quai de la Fosse, which is 
reached almost opposite the Transporter Bridge (PI. C, 3, 4; 1903). 

A walk along the quays is interesting. The Rue de THermitage, to 
Ihe right of the Quai d^Aiguillon (PI. A, 4), leads to an avenue by which 
we may ascend to Ste. Anne (beyond PI. A, 3), a modern church in the 
style of the 15th century. A staircase, at the top of which is a colossal 
cast-iron statue of St. Anne, by Menard, also leads from the quai to the 
avenue. A fine view is obtained from the top. The church is a pilgnm- 
age-resort. 

The Rue Mazagran, beyond the transporter bridge, leads from 
the Quai de la Fosse to the richly decorated church of Notre-Dame- 
de-Bon-Port (PI. B, C, 3), built in 1846-58. Thence the Rues 
Dobre'e and Voltaire lead back to the Place Graslin, whence we go 
straight on by the Rue Crel)illon (PI. D, 3). To the right, at the 
first cross-street, is the Passage Pommeraye, which is built in 
three stories, with connecting staircases, owing to the fact that the 
streets which it joins are not on the same level. It is adorned with 
statuettes by Debay and medallions by Grootaers, both natives of 
Nantes. It emerges on the other side in the Rue de la Fosse, near 
the Bourse. 

The Rue CrebiUon ends at the Place Royale (PI. D, E, 3) , an- 
other scene of great animation, embellished with a large modern 
^Fountain, in granite, by Driollet, with thirteen bronze statues and 
statuettes by Ducommun and Grootaers. The marble statue on the 
top represents the town of Nantes; the others, in the basin below, 
represent the Loire (seated on a throne) and its principal affluents, 
the Sevre, Erdre, Cher, and Loir. 

In the vicinity rises the handsome modern church of St. Nicolas 
(PI. E, 3), designed by Lassus in the Gothic style of the 13th cent., 



Cathedral. NANTES. 38. Route 261 

with double aisles and an imposing tower, 280 ft. high. The most 
striking points of the interior are the triforium, below which runs 
a beautiful band of foliage; the white marble high-altar and pulpit- 
the gilded choir-screen; the pictures, by Delaunay, in the transept- 
chapels; and the tomb of Mgr. Fournier (d. 1877), bishop of Nantes 
in the right aisle. ' 

The Rue de Feltre, between St. Nicolas and the covered market 
descends to the Erdre. Thence it is to be prolonged through the 
old quarter on the opposite bank (PI. E, F, 3) towards the Place 
Duchesse-Anne (p. 258 ), forming with the Rue du Calvaire an im- 
portant new artery of traffic. 

At the end of the Rue Lafayette, which diverges from the Rue 
du Calvaire, is the Palais de Justice (PI. D, 2), a large and hand- 
some building, dating from 1845-53. In the centre of the facade 
is a colonnade surmounted by an arcade, with a fine group by Sue 
of Nantes, representing Justice protecting Innocence against Crime! 
We now return to the church of St. Nicolas, descend to the 
Erdre, and cross it, in order to reach the Basse-Grande-Rue on the 
opposite bank. In this street, to the right, is the church of Ste. Croix 
(PI. E, 3), erected in 1685, with a choir of 1840. Its tower is 
surmounted by the leaden Belfry from the old Hotel de Ville, adorn- 
ed with genii blowing trumpets. — The Rue Ste. Croix, to the left 
and its continuation, the Rue de la Baclerie, as well as the Rue de 
la Juiverie and the Place du Change, contain some interesting old 
houses. We now cross the Rue de Strasbourg (PI. F, 2, 3) a hand- 
some modern street, which traverses the whole E. part of the town 
in a straight line from N. to S. 

A little farther to the E. stands the Cathedral of St. Pierre 
(PI. F, 3). The rebuilding of this church, begun in 1434 but left 
^"^S/^n®r?o ^^^ continued in the 17th cent, and finally completed 
in 1840-92. The choir, with its radiating chapels, dates from this 

A%K%'n^' '^^^ ^^""^^^ ^^ flanked by two towers, and the portals 
(^14/U-8Uj are richly adorned with sculptures. 

^ INTERIOR (closed from 12 to 1.30). The lofty nave produces a verv 
imposing effect The triforium is worthy of notice. Under the organ are 
^Tnes from ?Sp f.'"'"'%oft^^ Ifth cent., recently restored, reprefentLg 
RHH.nl ^ ^l^'^'.^l''^ *^^ ^*^^y Patriarchs and Bishops, and a Duke of 
and ??^Pp* "^ *>^ ^^f * ^^"^ ^^\ ^^'-^^ t^« ^««^«' a^e statues of St. Paul 
J,°,i L . • '° ""'^^^^ ^^ *^« ^5*^ century. The last chapel in the S. 
S;^ h^f . ' *• P^'°"°- ^y "• Flandrin, and the 3rd chapel in the N 
tllltfi , ancient stained-glass window. At the ends of the aisles are 

ever fhr^I^^K ~ ^i" '^'^^ °^J«*^*« «f i^t«^««t i« tl^« interior arlhow^ 
wl7^ TT ?^'?. *^® transepts. In the S. transept is the •Tomb of 

verv^Pl^L"'/^'* ^^^f °^ ^"**^^°y' *°<i ^^' ^if« Marguerite AeFoL I 
Ifi!^L/ A?7 \ 7«^^J° the Renaissance style, executed in 1502-07 by 
wiue m/i' ^^'^ *^ ^^''^""t ^^ -^^"^ ^^'•^«^' The tomb, in black and 
of ifmfT.P p' f PPort^^jecumbent figures of the deceased, with statues 
Juprm!nd!;i ^■^"•i«°««' Wisdom, and Power at the four corners, and is 
safnf «." ,n5 ^ "^ ^""^^ ""J ''''*®^° ^^'^h^^ containing statuettes of apostles, 
BrTtta;v H. "'k*""'^-,'^"'*^'^' *« *^« "ght' is a portrait of Anne of 
honiur^' wT«ln">?^ *^ deceased, who erected this monument in the?r 
Honour, Wisdom has two faces, one of a young woman and one of an 



262 Route 38. NANTES. Picture Gallery. 

old man. — In the N. transept is the ♦Tomb of LAMORiciftKE, a native of 
Nantes (1806-65). This imposing modern monument is the joint work of 
the architect Boitte and the sculptor Paul Dubois. Below a canopy lies a 
white marble figure of the general; at the corners are bronze statues of 
Study, Charity, Military Courage, and Faith, and bas-reliefs run along 
the sides. — "Visitors may ascend the towers. 

The street to the left of the cathedral leads to the Place 
Louis-Seize [Vl.Y, 3), in the middle of which is a Column, 90 ft. 
high, surmounted by a Statue of Louis XVI., by Molknecht. This 
Place lies between the Cours St. Andre and the Cours St. Pierre, 
laid out as a promenade in 1726 and furnished with other mediocre 
statues by Molknecht. The Cours St. Andre' extends to the left to 
the Erdre, while the Cours St. Pierre descends to the right, passing 
behind the choir of the cathedral, to the Place Duchesse-Anne and 
the Quai de la Loire, near the chateau (p. 259). 

In the Rue du Lyc^e, to the E. of the Cours St. Pierre, is the 
*Musee des Beaux -Arts (PI. G, 3), an extensive pile erected in 
1893-1900 by C. Josso and Lenoir (open daily, except Mon. and Frid., 
12-5, in winter 12-4). It is one of the best provincial museums in 
France, and contains more than 1000 pictures, among which the 
modern French masters are prominent, the first names from the 
18th cent, to the present day being represented by splendid works. 
Ground Floor. From the vestibule we enter the large central room, 
containing sculptures. From right to left, 5S. Lebourg Child and grass- 
hopper : h. Sue, Madonna; no number, Bureau, The Greek gemus ; 95. 
Thomas, Head of a child-, no number, Cordonnier, Inoculation; 8d. Fajou, 
Portrait of Lemoine; 37. IJucommun da Lode, Cleopatra-, i. Atzehn.UnU 
with an hourglass; Frimiet, 45. Gorilla carrying off a woman, 45 bis 
Equestrian statue of Colonel Howard (model); 24. iJe&ay, Mercury and 
Argus; 67. Lefeuvre, Muse of the woods; no number, J. Boucher, Antique 
and modern ; 57. Lebourg, Priestess of Eleusis. In the surrounding passage: 
35. Dieudonn}, Christ in the Garden of Olives ; 97. Antique head of Emp. 
Hadrian, from Ephesus; 40. £tex, Hero. , -^ a a ^ut. 

The Staircases on each side of the entrance are to be adorned with 
two large panels by IT. Berteaux, one of which (Mystic Brittany) is already 

^° ^The First Floor contains a series of large and small rooms extending 
round the whole building. Ascending the staircase to the left of the entrance, 
we first enter a Small Room opposite the landing with Pictures by 
F. Luminais, H. Dubois, Toulmouche, Eamon, E. Delaunay, and other 

^'^ Room* n!' to the right. From right to left: 3 L. Auger Sunamer; 
on the other side of the entrance, by the same, 6. Spring, 4. Autunin, 
5 Winter - 58. LargiWere, Portrait of the artist; 30. C. A. Coypel Einaldo 
anrirmlda; 97. Pater, Pleasure-party; m.LargUUere Portrait; ^ CMrdtn 
the Younaer Interior; 131. R. Tourniires, Faunly portrait; 144 CI. yi9non, 
WaSe^f the Set (1653) ; 27. /. Covrtois, Battlefield; 83. Natoire, Death 
Z^Sl,lTSancnardYir^. and Child with St. .lohn; m.Monnoyer 

Christ in a garland of flowers; 29./. Coypel ^i^^^^^'^^ZT^'^A^^'^Rlaaud 
Achates ; 130. G. de la Tour, Peter s denial ; 93. Patel, Sunset - 106. R^da^^^ 
Portrait. - £0. L. de La Eire, Holy Family ; 70. C. Vanloo Portrait of an actor 
-mq / Vprnet Sea-niece — 129. G. de la Tour, Old man asleep; bT. Le 
fueur; Aurorl' (sket?h)T34. L. FaucUer, Portrait; 147. ^. Vouet, Apotheosjs 
of St Eustace (ceiling -painting); 35. L. FauchurV orir^xi^ ^^.Oufy 
Eustic scene; 46. Vo«.e«e^ On the way to Emmaus; *l62. ™««;o?^^'^'5^"° 
the march; *23. N. Chaperon, Childhood of Bacchus; H33, 132. R-/ov,r 
n'^res Family portraits; *1017. Sigalon, Athaha putting the princes ot 



Picture Gallery. NANTES. 38. Route. 263 

the house of David to death ; Lancrei (more probably Watteau ?), *53 Lady 
in a camap:e drawn by dogs, 52. Fancy-ball; 'S?. Oudvy. Wolf-hunt- 148 
S. Vowt, Peace. — 151. Watteau, Harlequin, Pantaloon, Pierrot ' and 
Columbine. — 824. David, Portrait of Francois Mellinet: "64. Lenain 
Eustic interior. ' 

Room III (Italian School). From right to left: 278. L. Giordano, Mira- 
culous draught of fishes. — 334. Tintoretto, Dedication of the Temple of 
Jerusalem (sketch); 320. Leandro Bassano, Jesus expelling the money- 
changers from the Temple; '283. Guardi, Carnival at Venice: 215. Guercino 
Phocion refusing the presents of Alexander; •:^82. Guardi, Assembly of 
Venetian nobles at the Doge's palace; 318. L. Bassano, Spring: 314. Vac 
^asaono, Anaunciation to the Shepherds; 223. P. da Cortona, Herminia with 
the shepherds; 202. Caravaggio, Portrait of the artist (1595). — 200 Albano 
Diana surprized; =212. Pawni, Ruins. ' 

Room IV (Italian school). From right to left: 317. Leandro Bassano, 
Moses striking the rock; 205. Garavaggio (V), Peter's denial. — 348. A. Sacchi 
i..., .^n il* ^^''- ^- ^" Cortona, Joshua commanding the sun to stand 
still; 299. J/ara«a, St. Filippo Neri; 256. Cavedone, The four Doctors of 
the Church; SOO Maratta, Infant Christ blessing. - 352. Sassoferrato, 
Portrait; 272. D. Feti, Old woman spinning; 298. B. Man/redL Judith; 276 
T. Ghtst, Venus and Adonis. - L. Giordano, 277. St. Dominic subduing the 
1 human passions 279. The triumph, 280. The funeral-, 214. Barbieri, Adorltion 
^ of the Magi; 305. Maratta, Adoration of the Shepherds. — 323. M Preti 
Jesus healing the blind man. • « , 

09A ^o"^^ ^' ^^nf" '■'^^* ^"^ ^^^^'- ^^1- <^«««^««o, Piazza Navona at Rome; 
^^- ^-^f <'»«•"'«(?), Portrait; *292. Sebastiano del Piombo, Bearing of the 
S"c^^A i?^- ^7«^'««> Portrait; 670. P. Wcuverman, Horseman reconnoitring: 

f 526. G. Cocx, Interior. - 529. Cnyp (?), Portrait; 739. Velazquez {'i). Portrait 
R17* V^l^ PTf®- ~ ^^^- ^^- ^^ Champaigne, Portrait of an old woman ■ 
517. P. Brueghel the Elder, Snow-scene; 1003, 1004. Th. Rousseau, Land- 
scapes; bl4. Corot, Landscape; 890. G^rdme, The prisoner. — 769. Baudrv 
Repentant Magdalen. — 54. Lancret, Portrait of the dancer Camargo- 816' 
Co«r6e<, Winnowers; 96. Pater, Pleasure-party; *917. Ingres, Portrait -^ 290 ' 
Lor. Lotto Woman taken in adultery. - 771. Baudry, Portrait; 240. 
Vcmaletto, Venice. 

Room VI. From right to left: *273. Botticelli, Madonna and Child; 
m C«ram^^to, Deliverance of St. Peter; 218. Guercino {'i), Susanna; 327 
GwdoRensSi. John the Baptist; 199. Albano, Baptism of Christ- 211 
Oior^fone, Tiresias changing himself into a woman. — *384, ^385. Peruaino' 
isaiah and Jeremiah (wings of the altar-piece mentioned at p. 135): 206' 
Caravaggto Christ crowned with thorns; 275. Ghirlundaio, Madonna, Infant 

,, Christ, and John the Baptist; ^380. A. del Sarto, Charity 892. After L. da 
rm« Madonna; 239. Paolo Veronese CO, Mystic Marriage of St. Catharine; 

i SJ" A ffl' ^}- Sebastian. - 226. Bonifazio, Holy Family and St. Sebastian 

|i 001. A. del Sarto, Holy Family. ' 

\ A ^^?^ ^^^ (German and Spanish schools). From right to left : 541 
^.^^5^emer Fight into Egypt; 569. Holbein the Younger, Portrait; 679 

i J«'{«y/f«^«f/'^^«o^ of the mh Cent., Proposal of marriage 746. Zurbaran, 
St. i;uc a; bl7. T. Rottenhammer, Adoration of the Shepherds; 535. A. Diirer 

\ ''L^^"«*«Pl^r ('521); 570. Holbein the Elde,- (V), Emp. Maximilian I. - 

! 031. Denner (more probably ifi>«ar<f?J, Holy Family; AUdorfer, *485. Con- 

i "mZT "i^^f^^^^vtf^- ^^^'«* ^° the' house of Simon the Pha'risS^724. 

fATttnWo, Madonna; 733. Rib&ra, Christ among the doctors; 726. Murillo, 

I Annunciation to the Shepherds; 735. R.bera, St. Jerome with a skull. -J 

i ^.hJi' «r f^'ff '*^"''''^*f' Portrait of a young princess; n25. Spanish 

^School, Blind old man; 734. Ribera, St. Jerome; ISl Pacheco, Portrait 

i h.Jl VL^ }}\ ^rom "?bt to left: 571. Honthorst, Adoration of the Shep- 

r«« R^ ^t ff'^'^'r^ Topers. - 649. Teniers the Younger, Butcher. - ^. 

\Van Bosch, Adoration of the Magi; 642. A. Teniers, Village fair; 585 Van 

Uer i/«./e„ Louis XIV. hunting at Fontainebleau; 531. J. JifZys (7), 

mder Te^ f /V^' C/.amW^e, Portrait of Suger'; 671. P. Wouvlrman] 

wav to'EnLf;/%^Q*' Fr"""^'^^ portraits; 521. Ph. de Champaigne, On the 

way to Emmaus; 598. Momper, 515. P.Brueghel the Elder, bli Huysmans, 



264 Route :i8. NANTES. Picture Gallery. 

Landscapes; 620. Rubens (v), Triumph of the Maccabees; 600. I. Ovens, 
T'Jhias returning to his father (1651) ; 550. F. Francken, Crucifixion ; 656. Vinck- 
boons. Landscape; 484. Van Alsloot, Belle -Alliance near Brussels; 505. 
£raA-em6«r^ft, Village-fair; 597. Momper, Seashore; "bTi. De Crayer, Educa- 
tion of the Virgin; 662. S. de Vos, Family portraits; 588 et seq., T. Michau, 
Sea-pieces and landscapes; 580. Marinus van Romersrcael, Banker and his 
wife (see p. 48); 593. /''. MUlet, Landscape; Van Bloemen, 500. Blacksmith, 
499. Horsemen at a tavern; 520. Ph. de Champaigne, Christ at Emmaus. — 
645. D. Teniers the Elder, Flemish interior. — ti53. Van de Velde, The Good i 
Samaritan; 607. Pourbus the Younger (?), Prince Maurice of Orange.— 595. ! 
P. Molyn, Shipwreck; 592. F. Millet, Classical landscape; 400. Moeyaert (not i 
G. Flinck), Prodigal Son; 584. Van der Meulen, Landscape; 643. Teniers the 
Elder, Peasants playing at cards; 504. Boudewyns and Bouts, Landscape with 
cattle; -608. Spanish School, Portrait; 516. Brueghel the Elder. Forest-scene; 
549. F. Francken. Calvary; 511. A. Brueghel, Autumn; 574, 575. Huysmans, 
Landscapes; 619. -Rw6m5, Portrait oi' a woman; 547. F. Francken, Debarkation 
of Cleopatra; 501. Boeyermans, St. Louis of Gonzaga; 548. F. Francken, Cruci- 
fixion; 609. Pynacker, Landscape; 487. Appelmann, Landscape with ruins; 
514. P. Brueghel the Elder, 503. /. Both, Landscapes; '■Velvef Brueghel, 
■512. Canal, *613. Landscape; 530. Decker, Hut on a canal. — 563. De Heem, 
Still-life; 660. M. de Vos, Marriage of the son of Tobias; 49G. Bloemaert, 
Kepentant Magdalen. 

Room IX (Clarke de Feltre Collection). From right to left: 41, 40. 
Greuze, Portraits; 125. Subleyras, The hermit. — 659. O. van Vliet (Rem- 
brandt O, Head of a bald man; 567. Van der Heist, Portrait; 995. L. Robert.^ 
Girls bathinii. — 713. German School, Frederick II. of Prussia (crayon); 134. 
Tourniires, Portraits of the Maupertuis family ; 875. H. Flandrin, Revery. — 
996. L. Robert, Children catching frogs; 878. P. Flandrin, Portraits of H. and 
P. Flandrin ; 833. P. Delaroche, Childhood of Pico de la Mirandola ; 84. Nattier, 
Camargo, the dancer. — 835. P. Delaroche, Sketch of the hcmicycle of the j 
Palais des Beaux-Arts; 874. H. Fahre, Due de Feltre; 796. Brascassat, Cattle 
pasturing; 834. Delaroche, Girl on a swing. — 1046. H. Vernet, Expulsion 
of Hagar and Ishmael; 876. E. Flandrin, Young girl; small pictures by_ 
P. Delaroche, Diaz, L. Robert, A. Hesse, Papety, Flandrin, De Boissieu, and Steuben. - 

Room X (Salle Urvoy de St. Bedan). From right to left: 790. Brascassat, 
Bull; 953. Luminais, Defeat of the Germanic tribes; 11." S. Bourdon, Martyr- 
dom of St. John. — 850. E. Delaunay, General Mellinet; ^28. Ch. Latidelle^ 
Young gipsy; 787 et seq., Brascassat, Landscapes and cattle. — 855. 
E. Delaunay, Portrait of his wife; 1047. H. Vernet, 'The dead ride fast'; 
801. Cabat, Landscape; '612. Rembrandt CO, Portrait of a woman; 1012. Ary 
Scheffer, The charitable child; ''669. Ph. Wouverman, Horsemen preparing i 
to start; 899. Gros, Battle of Nazareth (sketch); 585. Van der Meulen, Hunt^ 
in the forest of Fontainebleau. 

Room XI, paintings of the modern French school : 884. Francois, Land- 
scape; 847. E. Delaunay, Ixion cast into the lower regions; 931. /. P. Laurens^ 
Pope Formosus; 822. Daubigny, Landscape (1851); J027. Tottegrain, Useless 
mouths; 885. E. Fromentin, Gazelle-hunting in Algeria (1857); 889. G^rSme, 
Plain of Thebes; 1053. I'von, The curtain of the Malakofl'. — 960. 0. Merson 
the Elder, The day of the barricades (1850). — 1001. Roll, After the ball;. 
1049. Vollon, Kitchen. — No number, Laparra, Job; 8'27. Debat-Ponsan, 
Vines in Languedoc ; 965. Moreau de Tours, A branded woman in the middle 
ages; 770. Baudry, Charlotte Corday (1861); 808. Chabas, Merry gambols; 
1023. A. Stevens, Sea-piece; 830. Delacroix, Arab chieftain accepting the 
hospitality of shepherds ; 818. De Curzon, Young Neapolitan mother. 

Room Xir, modern French school : 1Q%. Barrias, Neapolitan flower-girl; 
815. Corot, Democritus at Abdera; no number, Dabadie, Departure of the 
'Islandais^ (p. 239). 

In the CiRCDLAK Gallery of the first floor: drawings, pastels, and 
crayons ; monument to Elie Delaunay, of Nantes (1828-91), and a collection 
of drawings by him. 

Among the treasures of the Library, on the groundfloor (entered from 
the Rue Gambetta), is a "MS. of Augustine: De Civitate Dei, embellished 



Jardin des Plantes. NANTES. 38. Route. 265 

with miniatures executed in the studio of Fouquet for Philip de Comines 
(ca. 1475). The library is open daily 11 to 4 or 5, except holidays and 
the first Mon. in each month and lst-15th August. 

Near the museum and adjoining the Lycee is the Eylise des 
Minimes or Church of the Immaculate Conception (PI. G, 3), which 
was founded in 1469 but restored in the 19th century. 

The Jardin des Plantes (PI. G, 3, 4) is partly laid out as a pub- 
lic promenade, with an elaborate arrangement of lakes, waterfalls, 
rocks, grottoes, and other artificial adornments. It contains also fine 
groves and magnificent magnolias and camellias in the open air. 
There is a S. entrance in the Boulevard Sebastopol. A band plays 
in the garden on Sundays. 

From Nantes to Brest, see R. 36; to Le Mans, f^egre, and Paris, see R 39- 
to Touri^, see R. 39 C; to Bordeaux, see Baedeker's Southern France. 

Fbom Nantes to Chateaobriant (Vitri; Rennes), 40 M., railway in 
l-^A hr. (fares T fr. 15, 4 fr. 85 c, 3 fr. 15 c.). Starting from the Gare d^Orleans 
this line runs through the beautiful valley of the Erdre. — 71/2 M La 
Chapelle-sur-Erdre, junction for Blain (19 M. ; p. 269). 18 M. Nort-sur-Erdre 
(Od79 inhab.), where the river becomes navigable. From (27 M.) Ahbaretz 
an omnibus (1 fr.) plies to La Meilleraie-de-Bretagne (6 M.), near an old 
abbey. — 40 M. Chdteaubrianf, see p. 269. 

. nF,"o** Nantes to PAiMBffiUF, 36V2 M., railway (Chemin de Fer de TEtat) 
in 23/4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 55 c). The trains are formed 
at the Gare d'Orleans (see p. 257). We cross one or more arms of the 
Loire, according to the station we start from. — 9 M. Bouaye. To the 
left, in the centre of an expanse of meadow-land which it overflows in 
winter, lies the shallow Lac de Grand-Lieu, 5V2 M. long and 3V2 M. broad 
^Qii c ^"-^ ^^^' -^"^"""^ ^e diverge from the railway to Challans 
M. St. Htlatre-de-ChaUons, the junction of the line to Pornic (see below) 
"^ £\^"^ ^ ^'^ ^'- P^re-en-Retz (two hotels) omnibuses ply in summer to 
(b M.) St. Brivin-rOcian (Hot. du Chalet, pens. 7 fr. 5 du Casino pens 
0-7 fr.), a bathing-resort at the mouth of the Loire, more convenientlv 
reached from St. Nazaire (see p. 266). — 35 M. St. Viaud. — 861/2 M. Paim- 
boeuf (Hdtel TremUet), a decayed town with 2196 inhab., situated on the 
lett bank of the Loire, long played an important part as the port of 
J^antes but has been supplanted by St. Nazaire. Steamers in summer to 
Nantes (2V2, IV2 fr.) and St. Nazaire (50, 35 c). 

From Nantes to Pornic, 35 M., railway (Chemin de Fer de TEtat, as 
f ''.'Jq^ J°^ oA'SV^ ^^«- (fa^es 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 80 c). From Nantes 
Xo{l'6M.) St. Htlatre-de-ChaUons, see above. — 26 M. Bourgneuf-en-Retz 
♦ *i7^Txr ?^' ^^^ Voyageurs). The small port of this name lies H/4 M 
^ the W. of the station, on a bay bordered by salt-marshes. — 30 M La 
^ernmc (Bellevue, pens. 71/2 fr.; des Etrangers; des Voyageurs) is a 
small bathing- resort. — 351/2 M. Pornic (H6tel de France, pens. 71/2-8 f r • 
du Mdle, jpeias. 6-8 fr.; Continental; de la Plage), a small seaport, which 
ranks with Le Croisic and Pornichet (p. 266) among the most frequented 
sea-bathing resorts in this district. It is built on the slope of a hill 
55^A^^ *^^ which commands a fine view, and possesses a Chateau of the 
W-14th cent., a Chalybeate Spring, and many pleasant villas. In the neigh- 
bourhood are several small sheltered coves, with fine sandv beaches 
Forme is the scene of Brownings 'Fifine at the Fair\ A steamer plies 
tfirice daily m sunimer to (1 hr.) Noirmoutier (see Baedeker's Southern 
prance). — About 51/2 M. to the W. of Pornic is Prifailles (Hotel Ste. Marie- 
jnenard: du Chalet), to which an omnibus in connection with the trains 
runs in 1 hr., a favourite seaside-resort for the people of Nantes. The 
Deacn is pebbly and the sea -water very strong. In the neighbourhood is 
^uxrouard with a chalybeate spring. About 2 M. farther to the W., at 

Pn1«?."^ .? *^® ^^'''®' ;^^ '®^<^^ *^« ^^»"'« ^^ ^^- Gildas, opposite the 
Pointe du Croisic (see p. 266). 



266 Route 38. ST. NAZAIRE. 

From Nantes to St. Nazaire and Lk Croisic. To St. Nazaire, 40 M., 
railway in 1-2V4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 30, 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 15 c); to Le Croisic 
65 M., in '2-3^li hra. (fares 10 fr. 20, 6 fr. 80, 4 fr. 45 c.). — From Nantes 
to (24 M.) Saveiiay, see p. 254. The railway to St. Nazaire turns to the 
left and approaches the Loire. Opposite, on the left bank, is seen Paim- 
boeuf (p. 265). — 31 M. Donges. Ferry to Paimbfieuf, six times daily. — 
36 M. Motitoir, the junction for a line to Paris via Segre and Chateau- 
briant (p. 269). — 40 M. St. Nazaire (Buffet; Orand-Hdtel, R. from 81/2, 
D. 3V2, pens, from 8 fr. ; de Bretagne, R. from 3, pens, from 8V2 fr. ; 
des Messageries ; de VUnivers^ pens. 6-7 fr. ; des Colonies; British vice-consul, 
A. Trillot), a flourishing town with 35,762 inhab., situated at the mouth 
of the Loire, is the port of Nantes and has gained in importance what 
Nantes has lost. Its harbour is of recent creation and there are large ship- 
building yards (adm. Thurs., 2-4). Steamers of the Compagnie Trans- 
atlantique leave St. Nazaire twice a month for South America. The Young 
Pretender set sail from St. Nazaire in 1745 in a frigate provided by Mr. 
Walsh of Nantes. — Steamboat to Nantes^ see p. 257; excursion-steamers in 
summer to Le Pouliguen (see below), Le Croisic (see below), and Belle-Ile 
(p. 256). Steam-ferry to St. BvMn-POcian (p. 265). A narrow-gauge railway 
runs to (25 M.) La Roche-Bernard (p. 253). 

46V2 M. Pornichet {Or.-Hdt. du Casino., R. from 3, pens, from 8fr., closed 
in winter; des Bains et de la Plage, pens, from 9 fr. ; des Strangers, pens, 
from 6 fr.; des Princes, pens, from 7 fr. ; de Pornichet, pens, from 6V2 fr.), 
has an excellent beach for bathing and is much frequented by visitors 
from Nantes. About 2 M. to the E. is Ste. Marguerite (Hotel de la Plage- 
Ste-Marguerite, pens, from 8fr.), another popular seaside-resort, with a fine 
sandy beach and a golf-course (Engl, church-service in summer). — 49 M. 
La Baule or Escouhlac-la-Baule {'Hdtel Royal, of the 1st class ; de la Baule, pens, 
from 9 fr.; du Chalet ; de France ; Moderne ; de la Gare, plain) is another attractive 
sea-bathing resort. Tramway to Le Pouliguen. Escoublac-la-Baule is the 
junction of the branch-line to (4 M.) Guerande (H6tel des Princes), a town 
with 6852 inhab., still surrounded by Walls of the 15th cent., and containing 
an interesting church of the i2-16th centuries. The Porte St. Michel (now 
the Hotel de Ville) is a picturesque old gateway flanked by two machicolated 
towers with pointed caps. A narrow-gauge railway runs hence to (27 M.) 
La Roche-Bernard (p. 253). — We now traverse vast salt-marshes. — 51 1/2 M. 
Le Pouliguen (Or.-Hdt. de la Plage, pens, from 8 fr.; Gr.-E6t. Neptune, 
pens, from 8 fr. ; H6t. des Families, pens, from 6 fr.; des Voyageurs; des 
Etrangers), a small fishing -village, is also visited for sea-bathing. — 
531/2 M. Batz, or Le Bourg-de-Batz (pronounced 'Ba' ; Hotel des Voyageurs, 
pens. 6 fr.), with sea-baths, has an interesting church. Nearly all the 
inhabitants, who are possibly of Saxon stock, are 'Paludiers', or workers 
in the salt-marshes. It was probably off Batz that young Decimus Brutus 
defeated the Veneti (p. 251) in a naval battle, destroying 220 of their 
ships (B.C. 56). Cae«ar, who had watched the battle from the shore, sold 
the conquered people into slavery. — 55 M. Le Croisic {Atlantic Hotel, 
pens, from 7 fr., well spoken of; Ouillori or Masson, des Etrangers. pens. 
from 6 fr. ; de V Oc4an ; two bath-establishments), a little town and fishing- 
port with 2462 inhab., situated on a small bay near the extremity of a 
peninsula, is visited in summer as a seaside-resort. It has, however, 
comparatively few attractions. The church dates from the 15-16th cent- 
uries. The Maison de St. Jean-de-Dieu^ includes a bath-establishment open 
to the public and there is a large Hospital for scrofulous children. 



39. From Paris to Nantes. 

a. Via, Le Mans, Sable, and Angers. 

246 M. Railavay in 6V3-IIV4 hrs. (fares 44 fr. 45, 30 fr. 5, 19 fr. GO c.). 
The trains start from the Gare Montparnasse (see PI. G, 16, p. 1; Chemm 
de Fer de r Quest, left bank) or the Gare St. Lazare (railway of the right 
bank ; PI C, 18)j comp. p.210. — From LeMans io Angers, 60M.in V/z-^^/t hrs. 



SABLl^. 39. Route. 267 

(fares 11 fr. 10, 7 fr. 40, 4 fr. 85 c.). — From Angers to Nantes, 54 M.. in 
1-3 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 35 c). 

From Paris to (131 M.) Le Mans, see pp. 210-216. — On leaving 
Le Mans, our line crosses the Sarthe and diverges to the left from the 
lines to Rennes and Alen(;^on , affording a fine view of the town. 
Beyond (139 M. from Paris) Voivres we again cross the Sarthe. — 
143 M. La Suze-sur-Sarthe (Hotel du Commerce). 

From La Suze to La FLftcHE (for Saumur and Angers), 19 M., railway in 
50 min. (fares 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 55 c.). — 8V2 M. Malicorne has a 12th cent, 
church. Beyond (I2V2 M.) Villaines and beyond (16 M.) Verron branches 
diverge on the right respectively for Sabld (see below) and Angers (p. 272). 
— 19 M. la Fleche (Hdtel de r Image ; des Quatre-Vents), a town with 10,663 in- 
hab., situated on the Loir, is chiefly famous for its Prytanie, a military 
college for the sons of officers. This occupies an old Jesuit college, founded 
by Henri IV in 1604, of which Descartes (1596-1650) was a pupil. The town 
contains a church (St. Thomas) of the 12-18th cent., and monuments to HenrilV, 
by Bonnassieux, and L. Delibes (1836-91), the composer, by Marqueste. 

From La Fleche to Angers, see p. 279; to Aubigni (Tours), see p. 219; 
to SahU, see below. 

From La Fleche the line is prolonged to (33V2 M.) Saumur, passing 
(I2V2 M.) Baugd (Lion d'Or), a small town on 'the Couesiion, with an old 
chateau of the 15th cent,, and (24 M.) Longui (Ecu), another small town, 
beyond which the line joins the railway from Chartres to Saumur (p. 214). 

Beyond La Suze our line crosses the Sarthe for a third time. 
I57Y2 M. Juigne-sur-Sarthe, with a fine chateau of the 17th century. 

161 M. Sable-sur-Sarthe (Buffet; Hotel St. Martin)^ a pleasantly 
situated town with 5520 inhab., has an 18th cent. Chateau and a 
ruined Castle. In the vicinity are quarries of black marble. 

About 2 M. to the N.E. (omnibus) is Solesmes (E6tel Priau), celebrated 
for its Benedictine Abbey, which was abandoned in 1901 as a result of the 
Associations Law. The abbey-church contains two chefs-d'oeuvre of sculp- 
ture dating from 14<j6-1550, representing the '-Entombment of Christ and 
the *Entombment of the Virgin. These consist of two 'grottoes', contain- 
ing groups of eight and fifteen life-size figures respectively, besides various 
subsidiary figures, and adorned with bas-reliefs and other sculptural 
ornamentation. Some of the faces, especially Mary Magdalen's, are wonder- 
fully expressive. The figure of Joseph of Arimathsea is supposed to be a 
portrait of King Rend (d. 1480). 

From SablS: to La Fleche, 20 M., railway in 1 hr. — The train passes 
through a tunnel and crosses the Sarthe. La Chapelle-du-Chene (41/2 M.) 
owes its name to a chapel dedicated to the Virgin (recently rebuilt), which 
has been a pilgrimage- resort since the beginning of the 16th centurv. 
I6V2 M. Verron, see above. — 20 M. La Fleche, see above. 

Railway to Nantes via Segri, see pp. 268, 269 ; to SilU-le-Guillaume, p. 220. 

Beyond SabM the railway to Angers crosses the Vaige and then 
the Sarthe for the last time, but follows the latter for some distance. 
I 179 M. Tierce^ to the left, with a fine modern church. We cross 
the Loir, an affluent of the Sarthe, before reaching (I84V2 M.) 
8t. Sylvain-Briollay. — 187\/2 M. Ecouflant is situated at the con- 
fluence of the Sarthe and the Mayenne, which combine to form the 
Maine. Passengers for Segre and for the Gare St. Serge at Angers 
(see p. 272) change carriages here. We have a fine view to the right 
of Angers, with the towers of St. Maurice and St. Joseph. 

At (I9O1/2 M.) La Maitre-Ecole we join the line from OrMans 
(p. 272). — 191 M. Angers (Gare St. Laud), see p. 272. 



268 Route 39. ANCENIS. From Paris 

Our line descends the valley of the Maine, which it crosses before 
reaching the next station. 196 M. La Pointe, near the confluence of 
the Maine and the Loire. The line henceforth follows the right bank 
of the latter. Fine views of the opposite bank. 198 M. Les Forges. — 
201 M. La Possonnfere (buffet). 

From La PossoxNiftRE to Cholet, 27 M., railway in I-IV4 br. (fares 
4 fr. 40, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c.)- — The train crosses the Loire. 31/2 M. Cha- 
lonnes, a town with 4465 inhah., IV4 M. to the W. Branch-lines run hence 
to Perray-Jouarmet (17 M.) and to Beaupr&au (Hot. de France), on the Evre^ 
via Pin-en-Mauges. — 13 M. ChemilU, a manufacturing town (4257 inhab.)- — 
27 M. Cholet (Hot. de France; Boule d'Or), see Baedeker's Southern France. 

204 M. St. Georges-sur-Loire. The town (Hot. de la Tete-Noire), 
with a ruined abbey, lies 2 M. to the N. of the station. 

About 3/4 M. to the N.E. is the "Chateau de Serrant, dating from the 
16-18th cent, (visitors admitted). The chapel contains the monument of the 
Marquis de Vaubrun, one of its former owners, with good figures by 
Coyzevox. 

Beyond (209 M.) Champtoce, to the right, are the ruins of its 
15th cent, chateau, on^e the abode of the wicked GOles de Laval, 
Seigneur de Rais, notorious for his excesses and cruelty. He was 
known as 'Barbe Bleue' and is supposed to be the original of the 
Blue Beard of the nursery tale. He was executed at Nantes in 1440. 

From (217 M.) Varades an omnibus runs to [1 V4 M.) St. FLorent- 
le-Vieil (Boule d'Or), the church of which contains the fine monument 
of the Vendean general Bonchamp (1759-93), by David d' Angers. 
2207-2 M. Anetz. The railway now quits the Loire. 

225 M. Ancenis (Hot. des Voyageurs), a town vrith 4998 inhab., 
has a chateau of the 15-16th cent., enlarged in the 19th, situated to 
the left, on the bank of the Loire. Joachim du Bellay, the poet 
(1524-60), a native of the town, is commemorated here by a statue 
by Leofanti (1899). — 231 M. Oudon still preserves the fine donjon 
of its 15th cent, castle (restored ; to the right). 

Champtoceaux , on the left bank, about IV2 M. distant, contains thr, 
ruins of a huge mediaeval castle, and a church with works of art by Main- 
dron (1801-84), a native sculptor, and others. 

The vaUey of the Loire now becomes more irregular. On a height 

on the left bank rises the Chateau de la Varenne. — Several small 

stations. — In entering (246 M.) Nantes (p. 257) we pass under 

the railway to Paris via Segre (see below), vvdth the line to Lai 

Roche-sur-Yon and its two bridges on the left, and the line to 

Ghateaubriant (p. 269) on the right. 

b. Via, Le Mans, SabU, and Segre. 

(St. Nazaire. Lorient. Quimper.) 

246V2 M. IJailway in 8V4-IIV4 lirs. (fares as by RE. a and c). The 
trains start from the Gare St. Lazare or the Gare Montpamasse (see the 
Indicatenr) and reach Kantes at the Gare de I'Etat (p. 257), not at the 
Gare d'Orl^ans. The direct trains to St. Nazaire and to Lorient and Quimper 
run via Segre (see p. 269 and R. 36). 

From Paris to (161 M.) Sable, see p. 267. The line to Angers 



to Nantes. OHATEAUBRIANT. 39. Route. 269 

now diverges to the left. 168 M. Orez-en-Bouere, the birthplace of 
Colonel de Villebois-Mareuil (1847-1900), who fell in the Boer 
ranks during the South African war. He is commemorated by a 
bronze bust. — 176 M. Gennes-Longuefuye^ the junction of a line 
to Laval (p. 220). 

180 M. Chateau- Gontier (Hotel de VEurope; du Dauphin), a 
town of 6975 inhab., pleasantly situated on the right bank of the 
Mayenne, with chalybeate springs and a bathing establishment. 
The church of St. Jean, in the Romanesque style of the 11th cent, 
(freely restored), is the only relic of its castle. 

Steamboat service on the Mayenne between Chateau-Gontier and Angers 
(p. 272). The voyage is long (6 hrs. ; fares 3, 2 fr.) and uninteresting. 

The line now crosses the Mayenne, and passes (to the left) the 
Chdteau of St. Ouen, dating from the 16th century. — 18679 M. 
Chemaze; branch-line to (81/2 M.) Craon (p. 221). — 191 M." La 
Ferriere-de-Flee. We cross the Oudon near Segre'. 

196 M. Segre (Buffet ; Hot. de la Paste; de la OareJ, with 40